What a nice video you have made. The result is super fine and highly detailed etching. Good explanation of how you go about achieving a successful result. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I use ArchiCAD for drawing because i’m an architect but it could be any vector drawing software (there is so many free versions). Good luck - it is easy!
"Special Printer Film"? What exactly is special printer film: brand, type, etc? Also, is that a special type of ink in the printer or just normal epson ink? Thanks.
First of all, congratulations on your instructional video and for your effort. Just one question, if possible, what software can be used to design the transparencies? Thanks a lot.
I happen to use ArchiCAD because I am an architect, but it's not really dedicated to this purpose and it's quite expensive. The main requirement is the ability to do vector drawing and set the appropriate print scale. I think that among the free options, Inkscape or Gimp should be decent, although I admit that I used them a long time ago... Among paid but affordable programs, I recommend Affinity Designer. Ultimately, you can try to copy existing elements by placing them on a transparency sheet and spraying black paint with an airbrush... even using markers is an option. Regards, and thank you for the kind words. I'm a very busy person, but I promise more interesting episodes in the future.
Sure - it should work fine but you will need something to weld it flat without air boubbles. Also, you have to make it again on opposite side. But rest is the same. Good luck!
¡Muchas gracias por tu suscripción! Me lleva mucho tiempo preparar los siguientes videos porque, a diferencia de otros canales populares sobre modelismo, quiero mostrar detalles y no solo modelado rápido e impreciso. Estoy preparando nuevo contenido - creo que te parecerá interesante - sobre cómo hacer una impresión 3D sin una impresora 3D...
I would need to know more details. If you would be so kind and send me the information to bartlomiejrusiecki@icloud.com, I will try to help you at least with advice.
I recommend using plates from 0.1 to 0.2mm thick. Thicker ones will etch for so long that the edge may be uneven. In cross-section and under high magnification, instead of being smooth, pitting will be visible if the process takes too long.
@@model-ma-king 0.3 mm copper would work too. However you need a foam etching process with Ferrite-3-chloride at 30 to 45 degrees Celsius. The foam needs to gently flow over the plate from both sides.
Congratulations on your perceptiveness! Yes, it's a jewelry box, but of course, it can be different, though preferably dark. Is Positiv toxic? I don't know, but I'm still alive and well :) Honestly, you've surprised me a bit with your question. If you're worried, just leave it for 24 hours and the effect will be the same. Indeed, there is a bit of a smell after heating it in the oven - my wife scolds me a lot for this - maybe she's right. Good point - it's worth considering because health is the most important.
@@model-ma-king 😂 happy wife happy life. I think I would end up in the dog house if I tried that 💀 so it doesn't necessarily need to be baked? It will set on its own?
As an interesting tidbit, I'll mention that you can use a good marker to manually draw the desired shape - a marker or varnish will do the same job as a positive. An even more interesting solution is printing directly onto a metal sheet attached to the printer's platform using a 3D printer. Just a few layers and you already have protection against etching and much faster and more precise detail reproduction - the downside is rather the impossibility of doing double-sided etching.
Can I ask how you made it so it etches all the way through in some places, but for example the numbers are only partially etched in the same go? Did you cover them during the process?
The trick is that the images on both sides of my "sandwich", into which I insert a plate, differ from each other - if the same thing is in the same place on both, then etching from both sides of the plate will lead to it being etched through. If, for example, a letter is drawn on only one of them, then the etching process there simply lasts half the time, so it will be etched halfway through. It's just a matter of designing the drawings exposed on the plate - during the etching process itself, there's nothing else to do. This is well explained in the PDF, which you can buy on my Patreon.
What brand “SPECIAL PRINTER FILM” or Clear Photo sheets do you use with the process? I recently purchased a kit that came with x2’s sheets of it that looks EXACTLY like yours in video. However I can’t find a similar type. All Ive found is a less quality type that still works, but not as well as the original I got with kit. [Ink Jet Printer] Do you have any other videos or info regarding this process? Thank U for this post!!! ZenModeling ☯️
I used the FOLEX BG-32 PLUS film and didn't test others, but I think it doesn't make a big difference. The main goal is to ensure the best print quality. During the exposure process, what's essential is the darkening of the print since the film itself doesn't participate in chemical processes. My printer is an Epson L130. I'll just hint that it's worth converting the file from PDF to Bitmap, e.g., TIFF, because printer interpreters reduce the resolution of vector line vertices, and I was surprised by the significant difference in the final print - especially with such small details. If you want more details, I've prepared a PDF description in various languages. Let me know how to send it to you.
Another method is asking a printing company to make a lithographic film of it. And indeed TIFF or BMP are the best choice 1200 X 1200 DPI is sufficient each dot would be 0,021167 mm x 0,0021176 mm
Używam kilkakrotnie dopóki nie straci „mocy” tj. ok 4 razy a potem dolewam świeżego. Muszę też przyznać, że nie produkuję hurtowo tych części więc raczej nie mam dużego zużycia. Zrobiłem kilkadziesiąt małych płytek używając litra kwasu.
@@model-ma-king przygotowujac się do materialu natrafiles gdzieś na informacje jak wygląda fototrawienie na większą skale? Bylbym wdzięczny za jakieś materiały
Unfortunately, I haven't tried anything else, but I'm sure you have something similar over there - maybe I can just advise you - look for something related to printing houses, they create printing matrices there using a similar method, maybe they can give you some advice. The metal-corroding chemicals don't seem to damage the varnishes so you can try different agents - I even painted with markers and it also turns out well. Recently, I'm even trying the option of printing on a 3D printer directly on a brass plate, literally 4 layers as a mask - it is a very promising method.
@@model-ma-king - Gotcha. I have been looking into doing custom photo-etching, and I do like the quality of the process you demonstrate here. However I am looking into possibly modifying your process to do the electrical-etching with salt water and electricity, as there are no toxic chemicals involved in the etching process.
@lestatdelc I think it's a great idea! Most of the process will remain unchanged, only the etching phase will be different. I wish you success and suggest considering printing a 3D pattern on a metal plate using a 3D printer? Instead of exposing Positiv, you print a thin layer directly onto the board attached to the printer's printing plate? I thought about it recently but haven't tried it yet.
Will this PDF file will it be on English words, or will I need to ask? Soft cover books are not available? Upon option can that be e-mail so I can later copy off for later to read step directions that doesn't have to be read by a computer?
Yes, photo-etching using ferric chloride (FeCl₃) will also work on a copper plate. Ferric chloride is commonly used for etching copper in processes such as the production of printed circuit boards (PCBs). It reacts with copper, dissolving it and forming soluble copper compounds, which allows for the precise removal of material from the surface of the copper plate. Remember to take appropriate safety precautions during the etching process, such as wearing protective gloves and working in a well-ventilated area, as ferric chloride is a corrosive substance.
Also, I’d like to know if I could get the same result using photosensitive dry film instead of Positive 20. This is because Positive 20 seems very hard to get in the USA
Yes, you can use film, and the effect will be the same. However, the process of applying the film and getting rid of air bubbles seems quite complicated to me, but it will definitely work. Right now, I'm trying to use 3D printing resin as a photosensitive substance on a metal plate. The image needs to be projected with an old slide projector but with a UV lamp. I might make a video about it. Good luck with the film!
I'm not really sure how to answer. I just draw in a graphics program using black and white colors. Draw the steering wheel in black using some tool for creating circles. Draw the arms of the steering wheel with lines or fills. Add details with black or cut out with white. Then outline the entire steering wheel in black and print it on printing film. There are plenty of free sketching programs and lots of instructional videos, so you'll definitely manage. Alternatively, you can also draw on the film with markers by hand using a compass and ruler. Another method could be to use a black and brown illustration of the steering wheel, which you copy onto the film with a copier and correct with markers. I hope these tips help.
Honestly, you surprised me with that question. I've already sold several of those textbooks, and I have PayPal connected for payouts, but I'm not sure about the purchasing process itself - I think it's possible - I'll try to buy my own product from another account, then I'll know and let you know. If I understand correctly, have you already tried to do this?
My question is because on RUclips payment for your book is only possible through a Patreon subscription and I don't want to do this subscription. That's why I'm asking if it's possible to make a direct payment via PayPal
@sergioconselvan3535 try that link (direct to the shop without subscription): www.patreon.com/user/shop/guide-to-details-of-photo-etching-104412?u=91878836&source=storefront
The presentation was professional level.
And same for the work.
Well done !
Thank you!
What a nice video you have made. The result is super fine and highly detailed etching. Good explanation of how you go about achieving a successful result. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!
I use ArchiCAD for drawing because i’m an architect but it could be any vector drawing software (there is so many free versions). Good luck - it is easy!
Awesome !
Thank’s
"Special Printer Film"? What exactly is special printer film: brand, type, etc? Also, is that a special type of ink in the printer or just normal epson ink? Thanks.
IFOLEX BG-32 PLUS. It was standard ink for Epson L130, nothing special.
I use a laser printer. Toner printers work better than inkjet printers😊
Szczegółowy i pełny kontent. Zapowiada się ciekawy profil 🤍 Powodzenia
Awesome! Good luck with your channel. Cheers!
Thank’s! New content in the way!
First of all, congratulations on your instructional video and for your effort. Just one question, if possible, what software can be used to design the transparencies? Thanks a lot.
I happen to use ArchiCAD because I am an architect, but it's not really dedicated to this purpose and it's quite expensive. The main requirement is the ability to do vector drawing and set the appropriate print scale. I think that among the free options, Inkscape or Gimp should be decent, although I admit that I used them a long time ago... Among paid but affordable programs, I recommend Affinity Designer. Ultimately, you can try to copy existing elements by placing them on a transparency sheet and spraying black paint with an airbrush... even using markers is an option. Regards, and thank you for the kind words. I'm a very busy person, but I promise more interesting episodes in the future.
Pełna profeska
Great tutorial.
I wanted to ask if in your opinion it is possible to use the photosensitive blue film instead of the Positiv 20 spray.
Sure - it should work fine but you will need something to weld it flat without air boubbles. Also, you have to make it again on opposite side. But rest is the same. Good luck!
Hi mna very nice video .what is maximum thickness metal to proced ?
I think 0.2mm is maximum. Most common is 0.1mm.
@@model-ma-king thanks for info
Un buen canal, saludos desde México
¡Muchas gracias por tu suscripción! Me lleva mucho tiempo preparar los siguientes videos porque, a diferencia de otros canales populares sobre modelismo, quiero mostrar detalles y no solo modelado rápido e impreciso. Estoy preparando nuevo contenido - creo que te parecerá interesante - sobre cómo hacer una impresión 3D sin una impresora 3D...
Hi, is it possible to order some photo etched stencils with text for an F-16 RC model from you?
I would need to know more details. If you would be so kind and send me the information to bartlomiejrusiecki@icloud.com, I will try to help you at least with advice.
What is the max thickness of the metal?
I recommend using plates from 0.1 to 0.2mm thick. Thicker ones will etch for so long that the edge may be uneven. In cross-section and under high magnification, instead of being smooth, pitting will be visible if the process takes too long.
@@model-ma-king
0.3 mm copper would work too. However you need a foam etching process with Ferrite-3-chloride at 30 to 45 degrees Celsius. The foam needs to gently flow over the plate from both sides.
Fantástico
This is 👍. I want to try this. Is that a jewelry box? Do you just bake it in your oven in your kitchen? Is the positiv 20 toxic?
Congratulations on your perceptiveness! Yes, it's a jewelry box, but of course, it can be different, though preferably dark. Is Positiv toxic? I don't know, but I'm still alive and well :) Honestly, you've surprised me a bit with your question. If you're worried, just leave it for 24 hours and the effect will be the same. Indeed, there is a bit of a smell after heating it in the oven - my wife scolds me a lot for this - maybe she's right. Good point - it's worth considering because health is the most important.
@@model-ma-king 😂 happy wife happy life. I think I would end up in the dog house if I tried that 💀 so it doesn't necessarily need to be baked? It will set on its own?
Yes but you will need time. Effect is the same.
As an interesting tidbit, I'll mention that you can use a good marker to manually draw the desired shape - a marker or varnish will do the same job as a positive. An even more interesting solution is printing directly onto a metal sheet attached to the printer's platform using a 3D printer. Just a few layers and you already have protection against etching and much faster and more precise detail reproduction - the downside is rather the impossibility of doing double-sided etching.
@@model-ma-king oh now that's interesting a 3d printer
Can I ask how you made it so it etches all the way through in some places, but for example the numbers are only partially etched in the same go? Did you cover them during the process?
The trick is that the images on both sides of my "sandwich", into which I insert a plate, differ from each other - if the same thing is in the same place on both, then etching from both sides of the plate will lead to it being etched through. If, for example, a letter is drawn on only one of them, then the etching process there simply lasts half the time, so it will be etched halfway through. It's just a matter of designing the drawings exposed on the plate - during the etching process itself, there's nothing else to do. This is well explained in the PDF, which you can buy on my Patreon.
@@model-ma-king Ooooh, ty.
What brand “SPECIAL PRINTER FILM” or Clear Photo sheets do you use with the process? I recently purchased a kit that came with x2’s sheets of it that looks EXACTLY like yours in video. However I can’t find a similar type. All Ive found is a less quality type that still works, but not as well as the original I got with kit. [Ink Jet Printer]
Do you have any other videos or info regarding this process?
Thank U for this post!!!
ZenModeling ☯️
I used the FOLEX BG-32 PLUS film and didn't test others, but I think it doesn't make a big difference. The main goal is to ensure the best print quality. During the exposure process, what's essential is the darkening of the print since the film itself doesn't participate in chemical processes. My printer is an Epson L130. I'll just hint that it's worth converting the file from PDF to Bitmap, e.g., TIFF, because printer interpreters reduce the resolution of vector line vertices, and I was surprised by the significant difference in the final print - especially with such small details. If you want more details, I've prepared a PDF description in various languages. Let me know how to send it to you.
@@model-ma-king can laser printers be used in this process or just ink jet? Kind regards Tj
Yes, you can use laser printer but be sure to buy foil for that type of printing.
@@model-ma-king Thankyou for the prompt response, i am unsure what foil is used for in this process?
Another method is asking a printing company to make a lithographic film of it. And indeed TIFF or BMP are the best choice 1200 X 1200 DPI is sufficient each dot would be 0,021167 mm x 0,0021176 mm
Wow. I thought the photo etching was some kind of laser cutting 😅
Czesc, co robisz ze zużytym kwasem? Na ile starczy jedna porcja w naczyniu? Pozdrawiam
Używam kilkakrotnie dopóki nie straci „mocy” tj. ok 4 razy a potem dolewam świeżego. Muszę też przyznać, że nie produkuję hurtowo tych części więc raczej nie mam dużego zużycia. Zrobiłem kilkadziesiąt małych płytek używając litra kwasu.
@@model-ma-king przygotowujac się do materialu natrafiles gdzieś na informacje jak wygląda fototrawienie na większą skale? Bylbym wdzięczny za jakieś materiały
@EverynyanSan Tak, jest kilka filmików z produkcji seryjnej (np. Eduard coś tam pokazywał) ale to głównie już duże, drogie maszyny.
Hello, I'm Korean, and it's hard to get the positiv-20 spray from the video. Therefore, I'd like to ask if there's any alternative means.
Unfortunately, I haven't tried anything else, but I'm sure you have something similar over there - maybe I can just advise you - look for something related to printing houses, they create printing matrices there using a similar method, maybe they can give you some advice. The metal-corroding chemicals don't seem to damage the varnishes so you can try different agents - I even painted with markers and it also turns out well. Recently, I'm even trying the option of printing on a 3D printer directly on a brass plate, literally 4 layers as a mask - it is a very promising method.
Wow
Have you ever tried using electro-etching (i.e. electrical/salt-water etching) instead of acid etching?
No, I haven't tried
@@model-ma-king - Gotcha. I have been looking into doing custom photo-etching, and I do like the quality of the process you demonstrate here. However I am looking into possibly modifying your process to do the electrical-etching with salt water and electricity, as there are no toxic chemicals involved in the etching process.
@lestatdelc I think it's a great idea! Most of the process will remain unchanged, only the etching phase will be different. I wish you success and suggest considering printing a 3D pattern on a metal plate using a 3D printer? Instead of exposing Positiv, you print a thin layer directly onto the board attached to the printer's printing plate? I thought about it recently but haven't tried it yet.
Miszcz👍
Dzięki!
I'm intersted in purchasing a how to book in English where do I need to go ti do so if you still have available? Best regards, Brock Beckstedt
Give me your email - I'll think about how to handle it.
Thanks for a request consideration I'm stoke!
www.patreon.com/user/shop/guide-to-details-of-photo-etching-104412?u=91878836&Link&
Will this PDF file will it be on English words, or will I need to ask? Soft cover books are not available? Upon option can that be e-mail so I can later copy off for later to read step directions that doesn't have to be read by a computer?
@model-ma-king
Does it also work with copper?
Yes, photo-etching using ferric chloride (FeCl₃) will also work on a copper plate. Ferric chloride is commonly used for etching copper in processes such as the production of printed circuit boards (PCBs). It reacts with copper, dissolving it and forming soluble copper compounds, which allows for the precise removal of material from the surface of the copper plate.
Remember to take appropriate safety precautions during the etching process, such as wearing protective gloves and working in a well-ventilated area, as ferric chloride is a corrosive substance.
@@model-ma-king Great! Thank you so much. You did an amazing video. I hope to see more soon!
Also, I’d like to know if I could get the same result using photosensitive dry film instead of Positive 20. This is because Positive 20 seems very hard to get in the USA
Yes, you can use film, and the effect will be the same. However, the process of applying the film and getting rid of air bubbles seems quite complicated to me, but it will definitely work. Right now, I'm trying to use 3D printing resin as a photosensitive substance on a metal plate. The image needs to be projected with an old slide projector but with a UV lamp. I might make a video about it. Good luck with the film!
@@model-ma-kingyes please make a video on that, very interested. thanks
how do you make the drawings? I want to etch a steering wheel from my pocher Alfa Romeo.
I'm not really sure how to answer. I just draw in a graphics program using black and white colors. Draw the steering wheel in black using some tool for creating circles. Draw the arms of the steering wheel with lines or fills. Add details with black or cut out with white. Then outline the entire steering wheel in black and print it on printing film. There are plenty of free sketching programs and lots of instructional videos, so you'll definitely manage. Alternatively, you can also draw on the film with markers by hand using a compass and ruler. Another method could be to use a black and brown illustration of the steering wheel, which you copy onto the film with a copier and correct with markers. I hope these tips help.
@@model-ma-king thanks for the tips. I am going to look for a suitable program for drawing and try to scan/draw the wheel.
I would like to purchase your ebook "Guide to the Details of Photo Etching Techniques." but I would like to pay the 3€ with PayPal, is it possible?
Honestly, you surprised me with that question. I've already sold several of those textbooks, and I have PayPal connected for payouts, but I'm not sure about the purchasing process itself - I think it's possible - I'll try to buy my own product from another account, then I'll know and let you know. If I understand correctly, have you already tried to do this?
My question is because on RUclips payment for your book is only possible through a Patreon subscription and I don't want to do this subscription. That's why I'm asking if it's possible to make a direct payment via PayPal
@sergioconselvan3535 try that link (direct to the shop without subscription): www.patreon.com/user/shop/guide-to-details-of-photo-etching-104412?u=91878836&source=storefront
Unfortunately I can't attach the screendump here, but I am asked to log in via an email but which will then automatically also sign up for Patreon
@@model-ma-king thanks for this, just purchased the book.