CASTING A LAP ANVIL
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- This video demonstrates using an actual casting as a pattern to produce another one. The casting belongs to Andrew Alexander of Black Smith tools in Dallas, Tx
#anvil #blacksmithtools #windyhillfoundry #madeinmississippi #castiron
Pleasure to watch.
Been a pattern maker for 40 years and good to see everything you do has an important part to play.
Too many amateurs i see on RUclips are just playing at it. Keep it up.
Thanks Laurence, I appreciate your input👍
I’m not an old foundry man, I just enjoy watching you do what you do, having never known how the foundry process works. 👍
My father worked in the PA steel mills when OSHA was unheard of. He saw fatal accidents nearly daily. My grandfather survived a steam crane steam line explosion by climbing out of the cab and hanging outside to avoid being cooked alive! Of course, he was carrying a full ladle of steel at the time. If he'd slipped and fallen there would have been nothing to bury! An amazing man died on the steps of the steel plant after working a Sunday shift. His work lives on in the bones of this country.
@mister kluge Even my father, a staunch GOP'er to the end, admitted it was kinda nuts and more safety controls were needed.
He also saw plenty of KIDS working in the factory, and even HE knew THAT was WRONG. Most real MEN did.
Doug those were real men for sure. I knew someone that worked at sloss in Birmingham and he said he saw a guy get vaporized.
Scary stuff, still, I wanted to see those huge pours in action since I was 9. But since we lived in CA, and no big foundries like that, well, it definitely would have freaked me out to see someone hurt or killed. Sill, sorry I missed the pour.
Four generations of my girlfriend's family worked at Bethlehem steel. Her grandfather is ninety two and refuses to stop carrying thirty lb boxes of shingles up to his roof every year. Those men were conditioned by life to never stop working. The man says if he does he will die. Sure don't make them like that anymore.
I’m just astonished you don’t have more subscribers 🤯 Love all the content and even though I haven’t cast anything myself I feel I’ve learned so much! Making the mould seems to be like 85% and also where the skills is necessary. Thanks for sharing your work and knowledge! 🙏🏻
You are correct, It is easy to scrap an entire weeks work over a molding technicality
Another good pour.......nice anvil. Thanks Clark
Nice work Clark. I always enjoy watching your videos!!!.
I learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Keep up the great work!
Another awesome video, Mr Clarke. I like your editing style (among other things). You appear to show the complete process at an accelerated rate. But not so that the process is jerky or difficult to follow. You are a good teacher. Things that I could not understand in the slightest when I first came upon you are now much clearer. And, as always, I am in awe of your vision used to create a negative space from which is born the desired positive object. Thank you for your gift....
Thanks so much for the compliment John. I sure hope I'm getting better at illustrating
Great video. The sound effects when pulling the original casting out of the sand was a nice touch. Made me laugh
Hello Clarke, yes I agree with Conrad's remarks about sounds, the poping of a cork then the glass breaking made me laugh. Allways great video's Clarke and how is "Doller" coming along, she had a brilliant shine to her coat the last time we saw her. Best wishes, Geoff Lewis Wales, UK, 🏴🏴🏴
Thanks and Dollar is doing just fine and loves to bark at 2:35am latley😞
Sounds like Dollar's body clock is set to GMT. That's 8:35 am here in the UK
I’m fascinated with your work. Thanks for the well done video and details As you worked.
As a novice I am pleased Keith Rucker suggested you all. it has always been interesting ever since. Thanx
Thanks and I hope to keep it interesting👍
BTW, great video - the closeup of the edges of the pattern were excellent.
I would love a lap anvil like that, I do a lot of small stuff and doing it in my living room would be awesome.
Sir I really enjoyed this video. You done an excellent job on the narration and editing. This is quality content and presentation.
Thanks👍
Very interesting and a neat anvil,thanks.
Another great casting video. I’d never heard of a lap anvil. Looking forward to what the other pours are. Have a great weekend.
That's a really neat anvil, and you've got some good info in here.
Love to watch you videos! Your getting better and better!!
In my 70+ years i have never seen a lap anvil before, heard of them yes but never had seen one. I think i might just have to purchase one. Thanks for a very good video as usual. As for those grinding wheels i made the mistake of getting some from Harbor Freight and had one explode on me. I was very lucky i was wearing a leather welding jacket and apron and full face mask. Had to replace the face shield.
The customer has some very unique items for sure.
As for grinding wheels, I always expect these along with cut off wheels to fly apart at anytime. I never have my face perpendicular to the axis of the grinders just for that reason👍
Thansk for this one, Sir. It is a joy to see your skills at work.
Not sure how I got to this video, but holy crap! And I thought pouring lead alloys in bullet casting was a hot deal! You got my respect man, that's really something!
Aw, fudge. That's a cute puppy. Nice work again.
Great job on the anvil, looking forward to the courthouse castings too!
Thanks Jeff, it's coming soon👍
Hello Clarke, another really interesting video. Never seen anything like that lap anvil 👍👍👍. It was a surprise to know that you added Nickel to you casting mix. I used to work in a Nickel Refinery in my village as a maintenance Joiner, hell Nickel is heavy stuff. Small drums of pellets would be about 1/4 of a Ton. It's an amazing processor to see this stuff produced. The plant is working 24 hrs a day making Nickel Powder and Nickel Pellets, see the Foreign Trucks going into the works to load up. We know this because the registration plates have badges showing the country of origin. Sorry to go on Clarke but at times it was like a sea of Nickel around you, they could make almost 100% pure Nickel. Anyway great video's please keep them coming, Geoff Lewis, Wales, UK 🏴🏴🏴
The nickel brought back some memories for me as well, the difference with me was weighing out 2-300 pounds at a time, 6" x6"x 3/4" bricks . Then having to toss them into our EAF. It was the only thing we added that came in 55gal steel drums with skull and crossbone labels on it. Nickel dust is bad ju ju.
@@donniebrown2896 Hello yes I saw the process to make the Nickel Powder, it is owned by a Canadian company but for years now the process of making the Nickel Powder is buy the use of 2 Massive Rotating Kilns, the buy product is a Gas Nickel Carbonel, if you take it in it "Plates" the inside of your lungs, not nice stuff 🥴☹
Absolutely amazing Clark . Very good job . 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Bill!
One pup is enough at a time, eh? I have never heard of a Lap Anvil but it looks like something that would be handy at times.
Oh, also- check the switch on your grinder for possible grit in it keeping it from making contact. brush length, and the cord can get a break in it if it twists too many times.
WOW ! That's a very tricky casting to mould, Nice job Sir, as always. It's great to have you explain each detail. Thank you for taking the time to share it with everyone. How about an Amazon listing, whereby you have the discs you use listed in say 10's 50's 1000's and folk could go to Amazon and gift them to you for direct delivery to you ?
Great job, Clarke!
I always enjoy these videos, particularly when an odd piece like this one is the subject. An this time I enjoyed how you didn’t have any fires during the pours. Except for the 2 fires you had. ;-)
Sometimes i make my runners with bending a water hose in shape i want it, and press it into the sand and take it back out and it leaves a smooth running space to the mold cavity. Sometimes I use pvc cut pipes for runner holes.. It usually works good for me...I enjoy your videos
"It went surprisingly smooth, virtually no fires... well, 2 fires, but that's not too bad."
This is hilarious in almost any context.
@OsbornAbrasives...you guys need to get on board!!!! Get this man some cut-off wheels!!!
Those are a handy item if you do leather work. I have a Crispin from the 1890s. it was originally made to do leather work like riveting and tooling and such. It doesn't get used much these days as I use a newer item that works better.
thank you so much
Thanks for sharing!
Always a good day when you don't catch your boot on fire!! Lol
Be safe and thanks
Might be good to invest in a needle scaler, sand blaster or some other method that is more cost effective.
Most excellent.
nice tol. Nice work Clarke.
Thanks Randy!
I like your new voiceover style Clarke
Thanks Jeffrey 👍
Nice work! With respect to your angle grinder I had a similar problem, took mine apart and did not see anything obvious, brushes were not worn out I thought. Put it pack together and it worked for a while then played up again, it turned out the spring that pushes on the brushes was running out of travel on the brush box. I think some kind of safety to stop the wire in the carbon brush from contacting the commutator. New brushes sorted the issue even though the originals appeared to have plenty on them. Another problem I have had is an intermittent break in a power lead. Hope that is of some help.
Cheers from John, Australia.
Thanks John, we examined the brushes and the pressure spring. All good there, I think I have a pinched wire causing the issues.
Hey, that anvil looks great; everyone ought to have one! Well, my old fat lap might require the large economy size. But, I recon you don't have a pattern in my size. Seriously, you did a fine job on that one, Greg.
Thanks Greg and yes if my legs weren't so fat I would have given a demonstration🤣
Wondering if you had considered using a chill to harden the anvil surface.
If someone wants to supply the chill I'd use it👍
Whatching you work reminds me of foundry class at NTSU with jerry McCain al long time ago.
You had to show that grinder you weren't messing around!
Clarke, You aren't kidding, if anyone could use a sponsor for abrasives, its you. My best to the wife.
Thanks James!
Benchmark abrasives would probably step up!
I do blacksmithing as a hobby and had to click on this as soon as I saw it. Normally anvils have a tool steel top because of the beating they take. I guess since this is meant to be used on jewelry and in your lap it doesn't need that.
From my understanding, they used to make anvils by putting a plate of tool steel in the mold along with some flux. The heat of the cast iron would cause it to weld to the tool steel plate. Have you ever done something like this? If you offered them at a good price I am sure some hobby blacksmiths would be willing to buy them!
A true anvil is forge welded, not cast and you are correct that a steel plate is forge welded to the top.cast iron anvils work but they don't have the ring of steel anvils. I have a queens Dudley that my great great grandfather used and it still rings like a bell.
Because of that I prefer to leave the anvil making to the pros.
@@windyhillfoundry5940 I don't mean to start an argument but that is simply not true that they were only forge welded. They are mentioned in this old catalog archive.org/stream/MontgomeryWardLakesideTools1916Excerpt/Montgomery%20Ward%20Lakeside%20Tools%201916%20Excerpt_djvu.txt
"STEEL FACE CAST ANVILS
183B4592
Tho body of
this anvil is
made from
s u p e rior.
new pig
iron. (No scrap
metal used.) The face
is one solid piece of
tool steel, welded to the
body by a patent proc-
ess, and will not come
loose."
You might want to try a Lenox diamond cut off wheel. They last a long time as long as you don't rub the sides.
Beautiful job as always, did you get a new camera. This cinematography was the best ever.
Thanks and no but I did try to get the camera closer and avoid zoom on this
THe lap anvil seems like it could sell for you. You should keep a pattern around.
Thanks
I’d like to have seen how they use that thing, never heard of one before
I suspect these came out about the same time knee replacements came around🤣
Aww I would have given the puppy a home.
"Didn't have any sloppy pours this time." = I didn't have any noobs "helping" in the shop. LOL
👍
Never heard of a lap anvil before now. I don’t think I would prefer that over sitting at a work bench with a bench block type anvil. I guess it depends on what you’re working on.
Very nice. Why do you pour the rest of the melted metal on the ground, couldn't you pour it in a mold for future use?
Hi Rush, I never use remelt. I used to and it started causing disastrous results with ccustomers.it isn't worth saving if it isn't used the first time
there's still a need for cookware out there, cast iron is one of the best cookware's there is
Thanks for sharing.
I'm not a metallurgist, but would inoculation with manganese have been appropriate? The steel used in railway lines has manganese added for toughness.
Without wanting to interfere in your politics, I am praying for a safe resolution for your election process. Blessings from South Africa
Thanks Russell, manganese for my process would be violent. Its ideal for cupolas where you pour into a ladle but not adding directly to the melt.
Yes, for some reason most of the nation knows who won the election but the media is going out of their way to convince the US otherwise🙄
@@windyhillfoundry5940 I agree. Someone gave me some manganese bronze, so I tried it it, yuck, messy, spits too much. Give me my silicon bronze every time, beautiful to cast with.
That looks handy a lot better than the base of an old iron that I use.
Those old irons are pretty popular with jewelers these days, never tried one myself. I am interested in how much strength that nickel adds. An all cast iron anvil dings up pretty badly over time, and all those dings end up in your jewelry, so I would like to see how this one works. Love the shape, never heard of a lap anvil. Great idea.
@@aliceharvey1226 in reports I've read in the past...to the best of my recollection the added nickle toughens the cast iron to a good degree. However in the report there was a test of 5% nickle and 1% copper which yeiled greater gains in toughness. Greatest performance was achieved using 1% nickle and 5% copper in grey cast iron. As I recall the gain was above 75% over standard grey cast iron to apx 700mp as opposed to just around 375 mph for grey cast alone and less than 300 for white cast iron.
So the cupronickle cast iron is effective in anvil casting because of the way the cupronickle effects the carbon molecules formation.
Sorry I can not recall the name of the report...I found it thru Google search.
As this was a historical recreation its VERY KUUL. That said I would/am pondering the thought of casting it directly on a top plate of tool steel. Much the same way as I am told Vulcan and Arm &Hammer anvils were cast in the early 1900's. This is of great interest to me as I would like to recreate the Vulcan anvil myself.
So many words...but I hope this helps a tiny bit.
🙏 blessed days now and well wishes
Crawford out 🧙♂️🌲
Ooops for forgot to say MP is short for mega Pascal
@@danielcrawford7315 Thanks so much for all the info here. Keep in mind I will need to read this over again, and check out the anvils you mentioned, to make it all gel in my head, but I do get the idea. So I gather the nickel cast iron is a fair substitute for cast steel, is this correct? I would be vey interested in seeing how your recreating the Vulcan anvil comes out, and the process you use. Good luck with this project, and please provide updates if you could. Thanks again, appreciate your reply.
Search " cast iron bronze" here. There's a guy tha5 made an alloy of bronze and iron it's amazing stuff
@@joshschneider9766 I will, thanks.
On using an original piece for a pattern, could you dip the pattern in molten wax and would it help create a film that would make the original pattern smoother? You may have to dip it a couple of times.
Jon I don't own the patterns so I would have to get permission as I alter them
@@windyhillfoundry5940 I understand...A hard candle wax would work providing the owners of the pattern would allow the piece to be waxed. The hard wax would not give much due to ramming the sand.
Nice!
Why did you opt to dump the extra material on the floor instead of making an ingot?
Hello Clarke, I often see you tip the last of the pore on the ground ??? As the chap said why didn't you make a small ingot, is it no use to you later. ???. Best wishes, Geoff Lewis, Wales, UK 🏴🏴🏴
If I'm pouring Aluminum or bronze I'll capture it but not with iron. Adding remelt changes my composition and I can't afford to gamble with iffy material
Hey Geoff, as I had stated to operator 801 first time melts provide excellent material. The composition changes if I keep adding remelt back to the future melts which has produced castings that were too hard to machine in the past
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Seems legit. Thanks for the video.
I always enjoy seeing the process. You need a vibratory tumbler.
Thanks Brian and I'm actually looking at recreating a foundry tumbler from a 1901 illustration. I need a stave maker to pull this off though
@@windyhillfoundry5940 ⁸
Learned a few things again. The iron you pour into the sand is to contaminated to remelt?
Not at this point but it wouldn't be good to add as remelt because the composition will change
Not sure what brand you use, but I've had good luck with Benchmark Abrasives.
+1
Sometimes you just need to take a motor apart & let the dust & crud fall out, re-assemble the tool & it's perfect!
Throwing it againt a tree works wonders too sometimes
I'm curious as to why you put those metal rings on top of the mould?
I'm assuming it's to stop the top half of the flask from rising, when you pour the iron, but couldn't you just bolt the two halves of the flask together?
You are correct. It's very fast to just lay weights on top
Andrew! You better keep a hand on your wallet. I have several rare items in my shop because of Andrew’s selling ability! And, well, he has a TON of really neat old stuff!
As a side note on nickel studebaker used it in there engine blocks.
Chris I think all engine blocks have nickel. Not certain of how much but that's one main reason I wont melt blocks👍
@@windyhillfoundry5940 perhaps but as iv herd they use more than was common
Nice work Clark. Always enjoy watching your work. Give dollar a pet on the head for me. Stay Safe. Stay Healthy. God Bless!!
Dollar has a tendency to bark at 2:35am latley😞
@@windyhillfoundry5940 OH know thats not good. LOL
Do you normally have pig molds ready for any excess left in the crucible. A box on the floor with old casting sand would work, just mind the cats.....
Am I losing my mind or did the nickle bearing iron flow way faster and smoother than your normal gray iron
Josh I can't remember. It may have
@@windyhillfoundry5940 lol fair enough could be camera specifics too just looked like it did
I have watched most of your videos. I appreciate them and have learned a fair bit from how you explain what works and what doesn't. I also watch a guy in Australia Luckgen1001. He is a great teacher as well. Here's the question. He gets a much finer surface finish on his castings. What are you doing differently? He doesn't have sand caked on like you do. Or should I say burnt on. I know he uses Coal dust as part of his green sand mix. And has also recommended wood flour as an alternative. Just has me thinking.
I too am a regular of luckygen001. I have wondered the same things. Have also wondered if the coal dust he uses is bituminous or anthracite or natural hardwoods lump charcoal dust. I can see where there could be a difference between the three. Bituminous coal has a bit of oiliness to it so I wonder if that makes a difference. Anthracite has volatile properties too and may impart those into the surface layer or swirling gasses may mix into the liquid iron as it flows thru burning the dust. Perhaps not enough to make a difference. 0 experience with this but enough to make the mind go HMMMMM. Hardwood charcoal fines would seem to be the least contaminate containing in my minds eye with no real scientific evidence to back it up. That said he has some great luck w fine casting surfaces. To be honest your comment leads me to think of the above...so I'd never thought to ask luckygen001 about it.
Will be interesting to read what Windy Hill has to say about it.
Thank you sir
🙏well wishes and blessed days now
Crawford out 🧙♂️🌲
Hi, I add coal dust to my sand which serves as a good refractory. Sometimes I get it just right and sometimes I don't. I have to be careful how much coal dust I add to the mix or it will give defects. This sand is going on 10 years and considering it cycles through at least once a week it gets used a lot. Numerous castings come out of this sand every week so it gets a lot of heat and I am constantly adding either sand, coal dust, white oak flour along with two types of clay and some other refractories. If I was doing this for fun and only making 1 casting every other month I would never have to adjust it.
The surface finish is controlled with mesh size on facing sand. The next time I ram up a 3d printed pattern I will make an effort to zoom in and show you the fine finish I can produce here after it is wire wheeled. The fine resolution of layers shows vividly on those with the fine seive
Do you think the original was an investment cast instead of a sand casting?
It could be done but I saw witness marks of the parting lines on the original
@@windyhillfoundry5940 TY
I have about 150lbs of bare aluminum wire sitting in my garage. the last time I took any to be recycled they money was not worth the trip. Would this wire be a good aluminum to try my hand at casting with? I also have about 30lbs of 6061 bar stock I could use and 400lbs of bare copper wire.
Thanks for the videos.
Extruded aluminum isn't very good for casting, turn it in for for money (especially that copper) and buy cast aluminum rims. Much better alloy for casting
Extruded aluminum will melt and cast but without other alloys it doesn't provide the strength and durability for a good structural casting.
To save on grinding wheels try a concrete wheel and see how it works
chevrolet iron blocks that have the last three numbers 010 are high nickel content.
Those vents you snap off, if they where 6" or greater in length id consider buy them
I know right? they charge a fortune for cast iron welding rod. He could have a stand by flask with a bunch of holes and pour his extra in there instead of on the ground....Hint Hint...Especially some with nickle in it would be good for welding parts
I'm not sure how well these would work for tig welding. These wires are on the verge of carbide because they cool so rapidly
I dont think these vents push past 3 or 4 inches before they freeze off
@@windyhillfoundry5940 The ones I bought were for oxy acetylene welding. about a foot long and 3/16 in diameter. they are just dipped in flux like bare brazing rod
If the pattern was turned on its side would it have fit in 2 boxes instead of 3? Parting line would run across the top and bottom in the long dimension, would that be a problem?
Yes that would have worked if there had been any draft angle from that section.
reach out to osborn abrasives. the supplied Keith fenner, Keith Rucker and Adam Booth.
One of these would be great to have around. Any chance of making a few to sale?
If you test one of the sprues or riser for hardness , would that tell the truth for the hardness of the whole cast?
No, the sprue is isolated from the casting. It also freezes first and usually on the edge of the flask so it will cool down rapidly since it isn't insulated 360 degrees like the casting. The sprue isn't white iron but very close to that transition
Hi nothing is like 👍 it making a sand mould then to casting it, some time’s it’s better to paint the mound to stop the sand burning into the casting .keep up the good work. Daveyone
Thanks David, I have mold wash but these clean up easily with the wire wheel. I always save that as the last operation prior to stress relief
Have you ever forgot about the leftover you pour on the floor and stepped on it?
Vincent I have done that several times. I have thick soles and as long as I don't just stand in it I don't feel it
Might try down the tube with a rod chaser and have the end of the tube under the surface. This is how Lead is introduced to Steel. If on the top, it would vaporize.
Hi Martin, the melting point of NI is about 100° off from CI so it takes about 2 to 3 minutes before it melts. The tube on the other hand melts as soon as I touches the dross because of the thin wall so I can't keep it in long nor under
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Good research ! I suspect - have to look it up myself - it is carbide tube or exotic man made Sapphire! So I think you will be fine.
There is a company called Holland Anvil that sells lap anvils. I am thinking of buying a cast iron swage block from them.
Link?
Have you approached Norton for possible sponsorship.
Hi Richard, Suhner has been fixing me up with everything I need. Thanks though👍
How do I get to purchase one of those?
You could talk to Andrew, from one of the previous comments there apparently is a company still selling these
I would like to come and work with u this melting and casting bronze job from generation from my grand father and father and i got 20 years experience of working also casting aluminum
I'm willing to bet that Pferd would be happy to sponsor abrasives for you.
contact Adam or Keith Rucker and see if they can put a good word in to Osborn for you.
I'm not sure what to think about you not being on 🔥 kinda you hallmark
I need to look that up🤔
Have u made a real anvil
I have poured a couple small anvils but keep in mind these are cast iron, not an actual forged welded one
Interesting job as well the good work you put into it. Enjoyed.