ok you just saved my bacon (HA)! I have 4 burners which includes a sear station. Our grill was bought in 2013 so it is 11 years old but in good shape. I live in Chicago, and grill in the winter even if it is -10 degrees. So we use the grill frequently. However, I had two burners that had gas but would not light. So this had to be an igniter issue. I took your adive and brushed off the surface near the probe on both burners. Guess what, that solve the problem!!
The button/cap is just plastic plated thinly with chrome to conduct the current when the button is pressed. The chrome wore off at the battery contact inside my button, so I ran a wire from the spring inside the tube to the outside end of the battery and made contact for ignition. Since this worked, I cut parts of the button and incorporated the wire into the cap. See if this works.
I thought you would show how to check the functionality of just the module, which you did not do. I mean you used an indirect way to figure it out (by checking the batt and contacts and continuity of the wires). I hoped you would also check the connection points on the module itself (sometimes a little dirt on one of the metal bars may be the culprit). Good vedeo but i hoped for a module check-up
@@mixalis11111 right I didn't explain why it's not easy to do that. Would need some special equipment to measure the high voltage, high frequency output. It would damage a meter or scope. The best way is to see or hear the spark and for that you can confirm the igniter wires are good first.
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Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial. It's very helpful for a guy like me that never did this kind of grill service.
@@florinsgondea6124 you're welcome. It's easy enough, but dirty!
Great job with this video. Thanks!
Thanks, you helped me fix my igniter 💪
ok you just saved my bacon (HA)! I have 4 burners which includes a sear station. Our grill was bought in 2013 so it is 11 years old but in good shape. I live in Chicago, and grill in the winter even if it is -10 degrees. So we use the grill frequently.
However, I had two burners that had gas but would not light. So this had to be an igniter issue. I took your adive and brushed off the surface near the probe on both burners. Guess what, that solve the problem!!
@@wccroft50 nice! Happy to hear this. 😁
Great explanation.
The button/cap is just plastic plated thinly with chrome to conduct the current when the button is pressed. The chrome wore off at the battery contact inside my button, so I ran a wire from the spring inside the tube to the outside end of the battery and made contact for ignition. Since this worked, I cut parts of the button and incorporated the wire into the cap. See if this works.
@@charliebear7392 agree that's a great solution if that strip breaks. Same as I would have done
Just fyi. Weber has a 10 yr replacement warranty 6:11 on the burners and life time warranty on every part on the grill. (Including the igniter module)
Some parts are 10 year warranty, others are less years. At least for mine.
I thought you would show how to check the functionality of just the module, which you did not do. I mean you used an indirect way to figure it out (by checking the batt and contacts and continuity of the wires). I hoped you would also check the connection points on the module itself (sometimes a little dirt on one of the metal bars may be the culprit). Good vedeo but i hoped for a module check-up
@@mixalis11111 right I didn't explain why it's not easy to do that. Would need some special equipment to measure the high voltage, high frequency output. It would damage a meter or scope. The best way is to see or hear the spark and for that you can confirm the igniter wires are good first.
Ground?
@@ScottDMoore yes, not earth ground if that's what you were thinking
@@realhouseDIY Seems my issue was moisture. :)