Thanks for this video. Dont know why I couldn't find it along time ago. The washers that I'm supposed to reuse on the core support I lost a while back when I replaced the front clip on my el camino. Would you say those washers are the same thickness as the ones that came in your new bushing kit. I have the same kit and if they are the same thickness then I'll just match them up with some new ones.
So I did some research and position 3 on these was done like that from the factory for a Buick floaty feel, I looked and mine was missing and a few other guys on the forums confirmed that as well for position 3, Either way once the energy suspension kit goes in on my car I'm using all the bushings.
Do you do this work for other people or just personal I see you said you in the Midwest I'm in Chicago and could really use this for my 86 regal or if you know a shop greatly appreciated
Hi slick ! I'm up in Central MI. and unfortunately, I can't really do alot of this "sorta-thing" anymore / as I'm now retired. The REAL CARE needed here (and this is MY opinion), is the 'prep', you'll (or someone) will need to juice-up ALL the internal-Body "drop nuts" soaking them right down, as to THEN (hopefully), have a nice means of removal. Believe me: they are set-up HARD, and were meant to never again; "see the light of day" / and they almost always will never break loose unless we DO some "prep". Example: The rear seat bottom will pop out, and you will SEE (on each side), a small dimple showing us EXACTLY where the the PB Blaster "money-shot" IS (and where our drop-in cage nut actually is). Then (with a bit of luck) ... they'll break loose, and the task at hand can begin. What we don't need is an over-zealous moron whom has an 'obtuse' air gun / "rip-roaring" a new ass in our project and ruining any chance of a nice smooth exchange because he didn't do his homework ... "and most AIN'T"./ and DON'T. So make your meaning plain, let the "chemistry" do the job for us literally dissolving any and all rust in preserving our nice car / ALL the way down to the proper bolt torque and later: a "re-torque". So see what you can do, and get back with me if you pull the trigger / amid your prefacing to the induvial that "I WANT IT DONE RIGHT". All my best.
Thanx for the video. I just did mine on my GN with the energy suspension kit. You mentioned the torque value of 30 ft. lbs. Is that the correct torque for the poly-urethane mounts? I didn't have instructions with my mounts, so gleaned what I could from your video. Other TR guys have suggested 52 ft. lbs. Any thoughts on this?
"I guess I never paid attn". (is the honest answer) ... I tweaked them all down snug, and after driving the car a few times / RE-TWEAKED things until they seemed "tight". :- )
I did torque them to 30 as the video suggested -- drove the car and re-torqued to 30. They hadn't loosened. I feel the 52 number is for the rubber mounts. I'm going to re-torque to 40 for the poly mounts. Should be good enough. Thanks again.
I have a feeling the previous owner of my car replaced these with polyurethane despite only 11k mi. I wish I could go back to rubber. Maybe you can do mine. Are you in northeast?
Hi Jack, I can't really recall ... some take the "rag-joint" apart (disconnect the steering column), but having a lift afforded me all the room I needed / INCLUDING popping-out the fender liners as well. It's the "getting access" that's sometimes a bitch !. I do remember that the bolts were quite long.
Just figured mines out just wished they had better instructions maybe they should put the link to there website couldn’t figure mines out until I went from 5 -4-3-2- 1 to the right and then to left 5-6-7 thanks for this video been scratching my head for 3 weeks now that u confirmed that gonna go button them up now thank u
Question for anyone. I’m doing this now and noticed the no 3 has a drop down nut but the washer that sits between the body and rubber bushing won’t fit over the drop down nut. What’s the deal with it.
I've done so many / all my cars ... and the No. 3 is somewhat different then the others. I can't however "remember" anything DIFFERENT with the 3 position. The short answer: call Kiban Performance / He'll know immead. Rich. ME ?: "I guess I just looked at what I took off, and matched-it with what went back" / I myself don't (again) recall any issue. BEST.
Hey John ... with my having done this in a total of 9 cars, the answers "nothing". *("I'd welcome more height personally"), but after this job, (the body pucks), I used ta ALWAYS add 1" coil spring spacers (rubber inserts that lay inside the lower control arms for the front, and metal cup / spacers for the rear coils), and that makes the trim (MY OPINION) "Perfect". AFTER: the height is usually a bit much, but later everything always seddles in nicely. (I speak again about the spring spacers). The "Pucks" (the biscuits), are no taller then the originals. Best
Unfortunately, "more often then not". THAT'S WHY I drill a small hole just atop of each "cage" to soak it down good with "PB Blaster", I've found (on nine cars up ta now), that IF there's a chance / "your change greatly improves" by doing this FIRST. Remember: "your dealing with something that no-one ever thought would likely EVER, see the light of day / "EVER again".
@@TommyZTrains Just a follow up , I had to replace 3 cage nuts in the trunk repair the cage nut body mount and rebuild the area, I also had to weld in three new frame washers .. good times Haha but it was worth it the car drives amazing compared to before with the Poly Bushings installed
@@YGSpider Sorry about the "laborious-task" Justin ... In 9 cars that I've done / I've had on 1 give my a real headache (that one was under the rear seat). Today's penetrates literally dissolve any rust, and I can remember just "foaming-up" those holes that I preface in the above. *ANYWAY: "you WON" !!. ; - )
The first thing I'd do is "P.B. Blaster" the cage NUTS ... SOAK THEM WELL !!!, *(and these are all 15mm bolts). Next I'd try and bust each one loose / take each one carefully out / leave loose. IF your successful: do one side at a time / one Frame-Rail at a time ... just remember that you'll ruin the Bumper Fillers unless you pull-off the bumpers. If they don't come out (the puck bolts), then you likely have to gut the interior and use a hole-say when you find the tiny "dimples" in the floor-pan (where X marks the spot / the money shot inside the Pass. Compartment / and as well as the Trunk). End run: I'd see IF there gonna come out, AND: the "No. 1" position's on both sides will need a wrench-man (on the top-side) along with battery removal / canister tank removal to gain access ... if things "go your way", then "yeah", do it on the ground. Just understand (and this is obvious), that with a LIFT, ALL this is way easier ... (ESP. in a world where things won't budge, and bolts might snap) ... "PB Spray / Rust Spray" (my OPINION here), is REMARKABLE in the aiding of that which I've already outlined in the above, and can make all the difference in the world. GOOD LUCK. :- )
TommyZTrains ,thankfully the car is a rust free example I keep in a dehumidified garage. I’ve got jack stands and 4 floor jacks. Not looking forward to hours on my back. I’ll be sending the bumpers off for paint while I do the job. Thanks for the response!
I believe the "A body" was moved to front drive cars(Ciera,Century,Celebrity) for '82 while the rear drive cars were changed to "G body" {Regal,Cutlass,Malibu).
Your likely RIGHT Greg ... I had a 77 Monte Carlo, (a "BIG" car), and that was an "A" car as well I believe. My whole point ("and it's all rather-silly"), was the fact that the Dealership 'scolded me' once by saying: "WRONG info. will get you the wrong parts every-time Sir" ... making challenge with that remark: "the guy put me in my place" and pointed right to the cover on my owners manual: "A" Series cars ... "that's N O T a "G" Car Sir" ... ANYWAY: "I never forgot that". End run: "what's the difference" ? ... "NONE". There it is. "LOL" :- )
Thank you for the video and for the reply I have a passion for cars and watch all your vids. Just putting out there the silly reason why after 20 yrs of building A cars GM switched in the first place. they should have continued using current platform A cars and front drivers G cars:)
Nice car but the factory springs were way too skinny, Hochkins sells a nice suspension upgrade kit for these cars! I think the GM Engineers were on Drugs for some of there Crazy Choices over the years?
Thanks for this video. Dont know why I couldn't find it along time ago.
The washers that I'm supposed to reuse on the core support I lost a while back when I replaced the front clip on my el camino. Would you say those washers are the same thickness as the ones that came in your new bushing kit. I have the same kit and if they are the same thickness then I'll just match them up with some new ones.
I think they were just a bit thinner Allan ... aside of their diameter / I'd say you'll be fine.
This was super helpful. Thanks
So I did some research and position 3 on these was done like that from the factory for a Buick floaty feel, I looked and mine was missing and a few other guys on the forums confirmed that as well for position 3, Either way once the energy suspension kit goes in on my car I'm using all the bushings.
Ordered Fluid Film today, Tom. I so love how you care for your cars!
It's GREAT STUFF Joe.
Do you do this work for other people or just personal I see you said you in the Midwest I'm in Chicago and could really use this for my 86 regal or if you know a shop greatly appreciated
Hi slick ! I'm up in Central MI. and unfortunately, I can't really do alot of this "sorta-thing" anymore / as I'm now retired. The REAL CARE needed here (and this is MY opinion), is the 'prep', you'll (or someone) will need to juice-up ALL the internal-Body "drop nuts" soaking them right down, as to THEN (hopefully), have a nice means of removal.
Believe me: they are set-up HARD, and were meant to never again; "see the light of day" / and they almost always will never break loose unless we DO some "prep". Example: The rear seat bottom will pop out, and you will SEE (on each side), a small dimple showing us EXACTLY where the the PB Blaster "money-shot" IS (and where our drop-in cage nut actually is). Then (with a bit of luck) ... they'll break loose, and the task at hand can begin.
What we don't need is an over-zealous moron whom has an 'obtuse' air gun / "rip-roaring" a new ass in our project and ruining any chance of a nice smooth exchange because he didn't do his homework ... "and most AIN'T"./ and DON'T. So make your meaning plain, let the "chemistry" do the job for us literally dissolving any and all rust in preserving our nice car / ALL the way down to the proper bolt torque and later: a "re-torque". So see what you can do, and get back with me if you pull the trigger / amid your prefacing to the induvial that "I WANT IT DONE RIGHT".
All my best.
Thanx for the video. I just did mine on my GN with the energy suspension kit. You mentioned the torque value of 30 ft. lbs. Is that the correct torque for the poly-urethane mounts? I didn't have instructions with my mounts, so gleaned what I could from your video. Other TR guys have suggested 52 ft. lbs. Any thoughts on this?
"I guess I never paid attn". (is the honest answer) ... I tweaked them all down snug, and after driving the car a few times / RE-TWEAKED things until they seemed "tight". :- )
I did torque them to 30 as the video suggested -- drove the car and re-torqued to 30. They hadn't loosened. I feel the 52 number is for the rubber mounts. I'm going to re-torque to 40 for the poly mounts. Should be good enough. Thanks again.
Question. The no 3 has a drop down nut but it doesn’t fit in the washer. I can’t believe the washer sits on top on the washer.
@@richpawlak8432 ever figure it out?
I have a feeling the previous owner of my car replaced these with polyurethane despite only 11k mi. I wish I could go back to rubber. Maybe you can do mine. Are you in northeast?
"Does it matter" ? (I'm not sure I ever even looked at the "Energy" Bushing make-up) ... anyway: I'm in the Midwest / sorry. :- )
Howd you get the front driver side apart??
Hi Jack, I can't really recall ... some take the "rag-joint" apart (disconnect the steering column), but having a lift afforded me all the room I needed / INCLUDING popping-out the fender liners as well. It's the "getting access" that's sometimes a bitch !. I do remember that the bolts were quite long.
Just figured mines out just wished they had better instructions maybe they should put the link to there website couldn’t
figure mines out until I went from
5 -4-3-2- 1 to the right and then to left 5-6-7 thanks for this video been scratching my head for 3 weeks now that u confirmed that gonna go button them up now thank u
Their DIRECTIONS ARE TERRIBLE !! "Anyway": Glad you got it DONE.
Question for anyone. I’m doing this now and noticed the no 3 has a drop down nut but the washer that sits between the body and rubber bushing won’t fit over the drop down nut. What’s the deal with it.
I've done so many / all my cars ... and the No. 3 is somewhat different then the others. I can't however "remember" anything DIFFERENT with the 3 position. The short answer: call Kiban Performance / He'll know immead. Rich. ME ?: "I guess I just looked at what I took off, and matched-it with what went back" / I myself don't (again) recall any issue. BEST.
It’s a Prothane Kit I ended up drilling out the washer to fit over the drop nut. Thanks
you notice a considerable diff in ride height after install? im doing to my GN and afraid im going to resemble a 4x4 with the stock springs
Hey John ... with my having done this in a total of 9 cars, the answers "nothing". *("I'd welcome more height personally"), but after this job, (the body pucks), I used ta ALWAYS add 1" coil spring spacers (rubber inserts that lay inside the lower control arms for the front, and metal cup / spacers for the rear coils), and that makes the trim (MY OPINION) "Perfect".
AFTER: the height is usually a bit much, but later everything always seddles in nicely. (I speak again about the spring spacers). The "Pucks" (the biscuits), are no taller then the originals. Best
TommyZTrains awesome. its the exact same answer i got from my buddy mechanic thats doing them on my WE4! ill post up vid once i get car back
How often do you thing the cage nuts will spin and surgery of the floor is necessary
Unfortunately, "more often then not". THAT'S WHY I drill a small hole just atop of each "cage" to soak it down good with "PB Blaster", I've found (on nine cars up ta now), that IF there's a chance / "your change greatly improves" by doing this FIRST. Remember: "your dealing with something that no-one ever thought would likely EVER, see the light of day / "EVER again".
@@TommyZTrains thats a really good idea to drill a small hole
@@TommyZTrains Just a follow up , I had to replace 3 cage nuts in the trunk repair the cage nut body mount and rebuild the area, I also had to weld in three new frame washers .. good times Haha but it was worth it the car drives amazing compared to before with the Poly Bushings installed
@@YGSpider Sorry about the "laborious-task" Justin ... In 9 cars that I've done / I've had on 1 give my a real headache (that one was under the rear seat). Today's penetrates literally dissolve any rust, and I can remember just "foaming-up" those holes that I preface in the above. *ANYWAY: "you WON" !!. ; - )
My 78 cutlass Number 3 doesn't have a bolt hole just a blank mount no bolt
Could be / I can't even remember it was so long ago ... 😉
How hard is this job without a lift?
The first thing I'd do is "P.B. Blaster" the cage NUTS ... SOAK THEM WELL !!!, *(and these are all 15mm bolts). Next I'd try and bust each one loose / take each one carefully out / leave loose. IF your successful: do one side at a time / one Frame-Rail at a time ... just remember that you'll ruin the Bumper Fillers unless you pull-off the bumpers.
If they don't come out (the puck bolts), then you likely have to gut the interior and use a hole-say when you find the tiny "dimples" in the floor-pan (where X marks the spot / the money shot inside the Pass. Compartment / and as well as the Trunk). End run: I'd see IF there gonna come out, AND: the "No. 1" position's on both sides will need a wrench-man (on the top-side) along with battery removal / canister tank removal to gain access ... if things "go your way", then "yeah", do it on the ground. Just understand (and this is obvious), that with a LIFT, ALL this is way easier ... (ESP. in a world where things won't budge, and bolts might snap) ... "PB Spray / Rust Spray" (my OPINION here), is REMARKABLE in the aiding of that which I've already outlined in the above, and can make all the difference in the world.
GOOD LUCK. :- )
TommyZTrains ,thankfully the car is a rust free example I keep in a dehumidified garage. I’ve got jack stands and 4 floor jacks. Not looking forward to hours on my back. I’ll be sending the bumpers off for paint while I do the job. Thanks for the response!
I believe the "A body" was moved to front drive cars(Ciera,Century,Celebrity) for '82 while the rear drive cars were changed to "G body" {Regal,Cutlass,Malibu).
Your likely RIGHT Greg ... I had a 77 Monte Carlo, (a "BIG" car), and that was an "A" car as well I believe. My whole point ("and it's all rather-silly"), was the fact that the Dealership 'scolded me' once by saying: "WRONG info. will get you the wrong parts every-time Sir" ... making challenge with that remark: "the guy put me in my place" and pointed right to the cover on my owners manual: "A" Series cars ... "that's N O T a "G" Car Sir" ... ANYWAY: "I never forgot that".
End run: "what's the difference" ? ... "NONE". There it is. "LOL" :- )
Thank you for the video and for the reply I have a passion for cars and watch all your vids. Just putting out there the silly reason why after 20 yrs of building A cars GM switched in the first place. they should have continued using current platform A cars and front drivers G cars:)
Nice car but the factory springs were way too skinny, Hochkins sells a nice suspension upgrade kit for these cars! I think the GM Engineers were on Drugs for some of there Crazy Choices over the years?
How annoying having the radio on in back round.