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I followed this method quite closely, and my little fig tree looks so happy, even better than before transplanting. No transplant shock at all. I'm sure the fish fertilizer helped with that, as you've talked about in other videos. I mixed compost and a little sand with my clay soil, so fingers crossed.
my family has been growing figs in ground for over 80 years. Our climate is 7a And live in ct. my family came from Italy and when the family settled, they brought figs cuttings. We had a tree that was 70 years old. Never died in winter. Produced 2k figs a season. Hurricane sandy knocked down that tree. But have many more that produce heavily. If you need help learning how to care for a tree let me know.
Damian - my sis & I are learning a lot abt our family in Italy too--some settled in CT. Was this a common trajectory? My Sicilian grandpa had 3 fig trees in MI. Wonderful producers. He wrapped them carefully for winter with burlap.
my family was from San giovanni flore. Calabria they settled in the WV coal mines. I now live in Oakland Ca about as Mediterranean as you can get in the USA
I've read somewhere that these trees can live for like 200 years. That's insane. If you grow one and it establishes and thrives, it could outlive you by about 3 times
Thank you for your knowledge! I got my 1st fig tree it is still in container. I plan on putting it in the ground by the winter . I live in Tulsa Oklahoma and I have fond memories of fig trees from my grandparents. So I know this tree mentioned in Bible is about knowledge and the first thing Adam and Eve covered up with. I will do my best to make it great like yours! Thanks for ur teaching me.
They're the world's oldest known cultivated fruit. I think it's because a lot of the earliest writings came from the Mediterranean/Middle East where the trees are native. They're amazing. Thank you for watching.
@@TheMillennialGardener Hello dear I need a guidance I m in Dallas fort Worth and have 2 fig trees. Every year they die and branches gets dry. And in this season they come back with new branches. It's not getting a tree look, it's die every year and get bushy again. What's the problem? Last year it had nods for fruit but didn't came out😞😢
Great video. I just planted a fig tree. Its about 30 feet from house and 20-30 ft from water main. So you think the roots will reach and damage the water main?
Hey Sir... hello from Western NC. I grew up in Wilmington. Nice to know you're there in the hometown - I've added you, and I enjoy your videos. Thanks very much ! - Robert
@The Millennial Gardener do you have a video on how often to fertilize in-ground fig trees and what your ingredients are? Is it any different from your potted fertilizer regimen?
I live a few hours North of you on Coastal NC. I just put a Celeste into the ground last Fall. Set it in a mound a good 6" to 1' above the ground level. In a massive Island with flowers and comfery planted into the mound. There are 16 Breba figs forming already! I look forward to them... and the late Summer Crop. About to put a LSU Purple, Negron, and Violette De Bordeaux into the ground within the next week or so.... along with a clone of the Celeste if I can't give it away to a neighbor.
MySuburbanHomestead interesting, I put a Celeste in ground last spring and I don’t have a single breba. Lucky you! Sounds like a good collection, although I would stress an I-258 or CdDN. Outstanding performers in our client that blow the flavor of the more common varieties away.
@@TheMillennialGardener I have been eying the I-258 you have been talking about in several of your vids. I just may get one! What is the acronym CdDN stand for? I will read up on that type as well. I have had my Celest in a half wine barrel now for a few years. So she has some root mass and size to her already. So I kind of cheated. lol Long-term it is better to start off with a small plant though.
@@great0789 CdDN is Col de Dame Noir. Other popular varieties are CdDB (Col de Dame Blanc), CdDR (which could be Col de Dame Rimada or Col de Dame Roja) and CdDG (Col de Dame Grise or Col de Dame Gegantina). I have a Celeste in ground in my front yard, but I sort of regret it. The Col de Dame's are just on another level, at least if you have a longer growing season (220+ days). They need more ripening time than a Celeste, but they're all fantastic.
@@TheMillennialGardener Awesome. I will def read up on those then! Worst case... scenario… you could always use your Celeste as a root stock. I only have my because it is a clone of a clone of a clone that I have lugged around for years. I have a clone of it I will try to give away too. lol I bought it back before I knew there were so many different types of figs and flavor profiles. However, I will keep it! At least I will know it is reliable in our climate. Once the other ones get big and prove themselves to be reliable I can pull it and put something new there if I wish at that time.
@@great0789 that is my plan. Last year, the Celeste had 100% fig drop. I'm going to see how it performs this year. If it does well and is very early, I'll keep it as an early tree because June figs are better than no figs! If it doesn't perform, I'll probably cut it down into 4 hands and graft on 4 varieties as a frankenfig.
Where I live is desert dirt I wanna dig like 4 feet deep and 2 feet wide and use fertile soil and warms and then constantly mulch and will this work and maybe slowly turn some of the desert dirt into something better for the plant? Or should I dig more in the ground
Do you have any tips on how to avoid or minimize damage from nematodes when planting in the ground here in south Florida? Should I keep them in a container until they are somewhat large to make sure the roots are strong enough to resist them? Any tips would be helpful.
With the large root system that some fig trees have, where should they be placed? I saw another comment where you said not next to my house. How about at the edge of my property near public sidewalks? Would it destroy it? Middle of my yard? Flat land, or slightly elevated? Just curious as I have three pants being put in place this coming Wednesday! Thanks.
I really like your videos , i do things much in the same way , i agree with much of what you do and i have been gardening for over fifty years and i am hard to please, but i like what you do , good luck with your trees , i would think you would have to wrap the in ground figs for the winter i think you said North Carolina , i am in Mass. and it is a challenge to get them threw the winter.
Thank you. I appreciate it. I did not protect any of my container trees all year and left them in pots in the middle of the yard and only 2 had dieback. All the rest were unharmed. My low last season was 22F, so it was pretty mild. I may need to wrap the trunks loosely the first couple years, but after they put on some caliper, they're pretty tough here. There is a Celeste a couple miles away half the size of a house, so many figs here are pretty bulletproof once well-established.
Super helpful, for the most part. I only wish that you would have shown us how you applied the bucketful of dissolved nutrients. You mixed it all together then BOOM - you moved on to a different thing.
Excellent video! Thank you! I am just south west of Charlotte, but a 7b micro climate. I think the varieties you grow will do well here. I have several, what we call "local" gigs, probably brown Turkey, not sure. I'm on 16 acres but only have space for 2 more figs. So, my question! What are your favorite fresh eating fig varieties? If you could only plant 2 varieties, 2 trees of each, in ground. What would they be? I love your videos, thanks for making them!
I would recommend planting your fig immediately after your last chance of frost. Figs are more susceptible to late frost damage than most deciduous trees, because they come from very warm climates that rarely see frost. You can't plant them as early as something like a blueberry, peach, apple, or pear tree that can tolerate very cold temps.
Great video with allot of info. I up-potted my Brown Turkey about 2 weeks back and it came to a screaching halt. It's still green and looks healthy just not growing like it was before repotting.
Hello thanks for this vid. I’m a brand new wanna be gardener and adopted a fig tree in pot in Apr (it’s May) now has figlets!!!! I’m in Central TX and it’s 80s now and gets into triple digits. I’ve only been watering in pot and need help getting it into ground at a new property/build in the country. Ground is hard and mostly rocky so I’d like to plant in some of the foundation dirt that looks like red sand, dirt, clay. On the down slope below the water faucet so I water can flow down either by watering or rain. This is a test to see if I can get any fruit to grow. Perhaps a vegetable & flower garden later. I have questions if you don’t mind answering. 1. Recommendations on location, soil mixture, & watering? 2. I know you recommended a raised bed for this, but do I need this for one tree. If so, how do I do this? Video on that? Thanks!
What was the distance on center between the trees, and would you add distance or not, now that you are 3 years out? We're in central NC, and I have 22 potted plants going in the ground this fall. Currently, I'm plotting the out on paper. Appreciate your videos.
Thanks. My Col de Dame Noir grew hard to the side. The lack of symmetry is throwing you off, isn't it? It bugged me, but I'll fix it by staking the new green growth and straighten it out.
Thank you so much for such detail demonstration. You sit the root ball directly on top of the fertilizer of Natural Care and Bone meal, and it is not going to burn the root ? thank you.
No. They are organic fertilizers that must be processed by the natural bacteria, fungi and worms in the soil to be broken down, so they don't burn unless you use enormous quantities (which I did not use, I only used small handfuls). It is very important that you use organic fertilizers and not chemical slow-release fertilizers. Those you do not want to bury. Go organic and you won't have to worry.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you very much, noted, so, when I apply blood meal and bone meal, I don't need to spread them 6 inches away from the plant then. that's so good to know.
Good morning! Thank you so much for the awesome tutorial videos with enough detail even I can follow😂 i also live in NC. Along I-95 corridor. I just recieved a "Black Italian" fig tree for mothers day. Planting in the ground. super looking, full bushy right now. I have a large open space for it to grow which will get all day full sun. But during hurricane season i get full on wind so worried that out in open may not be best. Any thoughts?
I'm in Wilmington, so we get hurricanes all the time. There are old fig trees around the area. I wouldn't worry much about fig trees being damaged by wind. Even if there was damage, the trees will recover quickly. Figs are some of the most vigorously growing trees in existence, so as long as the roots stay healthy, you can literally cut a fig tree down to the ground in February and have a 6-8 ft tall bush/tree by November.
Hi I love your videos regarding your fig trees but one thing I haven't seen and maybe I've just missed it is how to know when your cuttings are ready to put in a pot? I have taken to Fig cuttings and just stuck them in a ground my trees are only a year old that I took them from but my figs cuttings took off and have leaves but they are planted with other plants in the container so I'm wondering how to know when I can take these out and plant them in a pot.
Nola Borrego I actually do have a video on potting here that may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/3g7aq5p34Dw/видео.html You don’t want to up-pot until the roots are advanced enough that when you pull the root mass out, the roots hold the soil together. You want there to be a defined root ball. Your situation is a little more complicated. If you’re just sticking cuttings in ground and you’ll need to dig them up to pot them, you’ll probably want to wait until the roots are somewhat strong because you’ll have to dig them up. You’re going to have to get a shovel under the roots and pull up the whole ball very carefully, then gently wipe the soil away as necessary. A trick to do so is to use a hose on SHOWER to simply wash the soil off a as tree you’ve lifted the root mass out of the ground. Then, the soil just melts away without hurting the roots.
Thanks for sharing watching your video planing to plant fig tree in my backyard New Jersey which type do you recommend from your expertise in this area 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I live in a much warmer climate, so I am not as familiar with fig trees that do well in the mid-Atlantic. Mostly up there, people plant Mt. Etna varieties like Marseilles Black and Chicago Hardy. I would research a class of fig tree called "Mt. Etna varieties." My personal favorite is I-258. I would recommend giving that a try, though I don't know how well it'll take 0 degree temps.
Giankees I try to, though it is hard in containers. Not as much decomposition occurs in containers because there aren’t earthworms and a thriving microbiome.
When do you recommend planting them in ground? After around 2 seasons in pot? Currently in a season of 1 gallon and I was thinking of uppotting or grounding next season.
Zone 8 and cooler, plant in spring to establish strong roots before freezes begin. If Zone 9 and warmer and freezes and freeze damage is rare, you can plant in fall or spring.
@@TheMillennialGardener let’s say it was from a cut I’m assuming leave it in a container for 1 season right? Or you can straight go from winter cut to ground for like zone 7
A fence only lasts 10 years. Even less where I live because we have a tropical storm or hurricane every 1.7 years. It takes decades for fig trees to get very big, and they're specifically planted close to each other to compete with each other and have a dwarfing effect. By the time these fig trees become large enough, I'll be on my 4th or 5th fence. I'm actually espaliering these trees now, which will keep them permanently small if maintained.
Gophers are not a pest I have, so I don't have a lot of experience with them. Have you tried burying some welded wire fence around your tree, or driving pieces of rebar into the ground? If you buy 2 ft pieces of rebar and hammer them into the ground 2 feet deep in a circle around the tree, you may be able to create a barrier. It's just a thought off the top of my head.
When I dug the hole for my tree I used a garden fork and I loosened up what I could and poked holes in the bottom of the hole as well, which got filled with loose soil, hopefully the roots have somewhere to go. I was a bit worried cause the soil was almost like clay which can be bad. But we'll see if my tree survives I guess.
I advocate for planting on mounds or raised beds for this reason. It really helps the trees send surface roots. What I do is I plant my trees high and let the root ball stick up about 3-4 inches out of the ground. Then, I dump several inches of compost, and then several inches of mulch, on top of the root ball to cover it. This will encourage the growth of surface roots, which will give your tree a way to establish very quickly if it's struggling to grow roots in tougher soil. All my trees have responded with immediate growth with this method. This video may help: ruclips.net/video/6_-aLxCOI8U/видео.html
What are your thoughts on a fig tree guild? You say there’s a lot of shallow feeder roots from fig trees. Was thinking of clover as a nitrogen fixer and possibly comfrey. But not sure how it’s react to fig tree feeder roots. Thoughts? Thanks again and great video!
Hehe this is pure mentalmessstrbation :D i just dig a propper hole mix last years cow manure whit earth plant the tree vater it and mother nature take care of the rest....some times check on them thats it.. Thank you everybody is fine and they salute you :D
How many feet apart? Distance from fence? And, do you plan to top them keeping them to a certain height? We have Nero and Magnolia figs to plant. Thank you for the info.
How far apart you plant your trees should be tailored to your specific goals. These specific trees were planted 6 feet apart and 3 feet from the fence, but that is because I'm growing them in a high density, espaliered form. If you want your trees to simply grow naturally and you're not going to constantly train them, this spacing will not work out for you because it will require regular upkeep. If you want your trees to grow into large canopies, you may want to space them more like 15-20 feet apart. The closer you plant them, the more they will need to be cut back, shaped and maintained annually.
It depends how root-bound the tree is. If the roots are root-bound and spiraling very hard, it isn't a bad idea as long as the tree is still pretty dormant. If there is no spiraling, it isn't really necessary.
I have a 6 year old fig orchard. I have found that I needed to plant my fig trees 25' apart each tree eventually grew to 20' girth that is 10' to the trunk. I made the mistake of planting them 6' to 8' apart and can hardly get through the foliage. If you plant them close you will have to prune heavily every year so they dont get out of control.
Yes, that's correct. I am anticipating that. I am going to espalier them as double cordons that will branch out 3 feet in each direction. I will then hard prune them at 3 feet and allow the trunks to become large. My new figs will, in theory, grow vertically up on the cordons. Basically, I will be keeping them pruned and trained like grape vines. Of course, this assumes no cold damage, and I hope I'm not being too ambitious with figs in Zone 8a.
Hi, l am very happy to listen to all your video . By my experience l can see you are biology and agricultural man who know what is talking about any way l am very happy to listen to your video. For my part l am a beginner. how to plant FIG TREE .l am leaving in MAURITIUS, l have a farm of one acre, the temperature in winter + - 17 degrees and in summer +- 26 degrees. the plot is in the middle of the island. The rainfall I + - 4000 m/m per year. my question is can l plant figure trees their Thanks to replying Maurice.
Maurice Tyack I’m actually an engineer, but I have a good background in all the sciences because of it. Figs are deciduous trees, so they need a cool season for them to drop their leaves. Since your climate is very warm all year, I do not know how well they will grow. They need a “reset” period for them to lose their leaves and grow new ones back, so if the trees don’t lose their leaves in your winter like they’re supposed to, you should pull them off manually. Remove all of them during the middle of your winter. That should help trick the tree into putting on all new growth, which may help rejuvenate the tree.
Hey can't wait till this comes out! Also Ive been looking everywhere for info on how to make my own garden soil. Every video online is about potting soil and I'm trying to get all my trees out of pots and in the ground. Would love some info on how to recreate that !
ALBONGardens the difference between potting soil and garden soil is just the difference in peat moss. Peat moss is the fluffy additive that retains moisture, and potting soil has a lot of peat moss whereas garden soil does not. Let’s say potting soil has 40% peat, 40% topsoil and 20% humus, plus perlite and fertilizer. Garden soil may be 20% peat, 60% topsoil and 20% humus, plus fertilizer. I made up those numbers randomly, but you get the idea. That’s really the only difference - the peat, and they usually add in perlite for drainage. If you read the bags, they tell you what’s in it. Potting soil is so expensive because you’re paying for peat moss and perlite so it’s “fancy”. You can make your own for a fraction of the price by buying bricks of coir and cheap topsoil and humus, then mixing it all in a wheelbarrow. With potting mix, you just use a much higher ratio of coir/peat. I just ordered in a truckload of locally made turkey compost for my garden soil from a landscape supply place. $45/cubic yard. You’ll go broke fast trying to make garden soil out of bags if you have more than one raised bed. It is cheaper to truck stuff in and wheelbarrow it over.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the info! It got me thinking and doing more research. I guess since figs don't need too much water and clay has poor drainage properties, having a 50-50 compost/humus-topsoil mix should work? Maybe 10-15% peat moss would help a little or I can just put on a thick layer of mulch. I will try this out. Thanks for the help!
ALBONGardens figs are drought tolerant, but when they have a mature root system. In their native habitat, they have tremendous root systems and grow on top of limestone pockets that stay damp, so their spiderweb-like roots can hunt for water in these damp pockets effectively. If you are growing them in rocky soil that stays damp, they won’t need a lot of water. If they’re grown in sandy soil that does not retain moisture, you’ll need to mulch heavily and water. If you grow figs in containers, they need a ton of water in the heat of the summer. Don’t be fooled - their drought tolerance is due to their spiderweb-like root systems that hunt for water retained in rocky moisture pockets. If you’re growing in sand like I am, they won’t be as drought tolerant.
@@TheMillennialGardener every area of my yard is so different. Some places it doesn't drain well and other places it's fine. I just have to play around and experiment. I wish I had you size back yard but unfortunately I don't so will make the most of what I have. Keep the videos coming. I enjoy watching them :)
ALBONGardens it took me 2 years of hunting to find a plot that worked for me. It’s certainly not large, but it is significant for my needs. I would advise better draining soil. It is better to have too much drainage than not enough. I would recommend planting the tree high regardless to avoid root rot.
It's not necessary to add those products in terms of the fig tree establishing. However, if you want the tree to grow quickly and flourish, they will greatly help you.
@@TheMillennialGardener Coming back to this to thank you but also because it looks like my tree died back to the base because of our freeze in Texas. There is a growth bud that's maybe an 1/8". I added compost and fresh mulch around it to give it a boost. Is it ok if I still add these products? I assume I'd just sprinkle them around the tree.
Fig trees have a gigantic root system, are you worried these will all take over the yard and next door? I want to plant a fig but thats whats holding me back. Ill have a garden with one fig taking up the whole garden in time underneath the soil.
Not particularly. My neighbor is from Sicily and loves figs as much as I do. It takes him back to his childhood. He can't wait to reach over the fence and pick them :) I would NOT plant these up against a house for this reason, though.
The best time in your location is immediately after your last frost date in the spring so the tree can have the longest frost-free period possible to establish. Planting late in the season ensures the tree won't establish, and it'll be very susceptible to cold damage.
The safest time is always in early spring immediately after your last frost. If you are in Zone 9, you may be able to plant now during the fall. However, if you're liable to see Arctic blasts, I would hold off. I would not want to expose young fig wood to temps in the low 20's or teens. That can kill the wood back.
It depends how root-bound they are. Those had been sitting in the buckets for a year, so they're not terribly root-bound. They are enormous, now, after 2 years.
I have a persimmon tree in a container that is breaking dormancy right now, so I'll be planting that. I also ordered a Meyer Lemon, but they messed up and sent me a Harvey Lemon, so I need to exchange that. I'll be putting the Meyer in ground. I currently have an Owari Satsuma and Lila Avocado in-ground, as well as a pineapple guava and three types of bananas. I have 2 more types of bananas in transit, as well. I intend to add 2 paw paw's in the future, as well as many more figs as I trial more varieties. I don't intend on growing apples. It's too hot where I am for good apples. Peaches I'm on the fence about because they're a lot of work and I can get really good local peaches from South Carolina. I'm also looking at grape varieties that can survive here, but there aren't many.
christine sohn most figs can be planted in Zone 7 if you’re willing to mulch heavily around the base and let them simply be killed down to the ground annually. Is that ok with you? It would be hard to recommend a hardy fig for you since I’m in Zone 8, but pretty much any Mt. Etna type will probably be fine, as well as hardy varieties like Olympian.
Do you have an update of these trees ? Im about ready to plant one , im having a hard time with location , the spot i had chosen has poor drainage what can i do to fix that if anything? I live in the desert and have heavy clay soil, i know i have to amend the soil, but anything else i can do? Thanks for any advice.
Tony&Terri Giusti as soon as last chance of frost is over in spring. The earlier the better once you’re frost free. You want to give them as much time to establish before the winter as possible.
Certainly. If you look in most fruit tree orchards, they monocrop with 10-20 foot spacing, in general, depending on what they're growing. Spacing is usually excessive so they can get heavy equipment in there to harvest. For the backyard gardener, I recommend much closer spacing and using simple pruning techniques to control growth. I will be double cordon espaliering my figs, so I want very close spacing. My first cordon will be at 18-24", and the second at 36-48" (I haven't decided yet), so I can harvest my fruits without resorting to a ladder. I will be pruning to control the growth and not allowing them to become large trees. I'm finding 6 feet is about the minimum spacing for most trees, so I'm going for high density planting.
A fence only lasts 10 years. Even less where I live because we have a tropical storm or hurricane every 1.7 years. It takes decades for fig trees to get very big, and they're specifically planted close to each other to compete with each other and have a dwarfing effect. By the time these fig trees become large enough, I'll be on my 4th or 5th fence. I'm actually espaliering these trees now, which will keep them permanently small if maintained.
Is there a better way to contact you than through here? I have some question on some cuttings I have rooted. Not sure if i should fert them in the cup or up pot them.
Here or Instagram is best. RUclips doesn't always send notifications, so sometimes it's best to comment on a different video if I don't respond within a couple days.
Yes. But it's best to plant a fig tree in the spring after frost chance so it has as much time to establish as possible. You can probably still plant a fig tree now, but it's getting late if you see frost in October or sooner.
It looks like you planted your figs about ten feet apart. I don't have so much space so if I do plant mine in ground, I plan about four feet apart--for maximum sun, and my yard gets some shade periodically from neighboring properties on either side, so the figs should get 6-8 hours of sun every day. I also plan to avoid water lines, another thing I need to recognize in planting a fig or most trees, really. Therefor, also my internal debate on whether to actually plant in ground! I am in zone 8b in Austin.
I detail the spacing in the video. They are 6 feet apart. I have them planted closet, because I espalier them. If you are going to plant them this closely or even closer, you are going to want to espalier them as well, or at least prune them very tightly. Otherwise, they are going to heavily shade each other, which can impact fruit quality and ripening times.
All these trees are 10+ feet tall now. The key is planting fig trees elevated, so the trees can send surface roots when they're young. The roots will grow rapidly and aggressively.
M. A most likely it’ll still have time to establish before the winter. If you think it will be 3-4 months until your first frost, you should be fine. But don’t wait too much longer.
Fig trees should be planted in the early spring after your last chance of frost in areas that see cold temperatures that can cause dieback. If you live in a mild climate where it rarely freezes or frosts during the winter and doesn't get very cold, you can also transplant in the fall.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live in East Tennessee, and I ready it’s zone 7a. So based on your reply, I should plant it early spring and not late fall, right?
@@ceili yes. 6 feet is pushing the lower limits of spacing, in my opinion. I will be going for an espalier setup, growing them similarly to grape vines, and cutting them back to the cordons annually. Close spacing like this is something you'll need to maintain or else it'll grow like a thicket.
I was always told to contain the roots of fig trees if you plant them in ground, otherwise the roots can cause serious problems to foundations etc, as they can spread very very far…
I have mixed feelings on this. On one hand, fig roots can be invasive, yes. However, if you look all around the Mediterranean and in areas of the Northeast where many Greek and Italians emigrated to back in the early 1900's, it's very common to see fig trees growing up against a wall. It's common practice to espalier them up against a brick wall, in fact. So, there are countless examples of people doing this. For me personally, I will not plant a fig against my home because it is a slab foundation and I don't want hardwood roots going under my slab foundation. However, if you have a deep foundation, it may be less of a problem. I don't know what to recommend here aside from exercising caution if you're very worried.
They require full sun. Figs need at least 6 hours of unobstructed, unfiltered sun a day. However, more is better. Figs are sun-loving trees that are native to the Mediterranean and one of the few trees that thrive in the Middle East.
Because I can quickly see the physical change in the fig trees. When you tend to your trees and observe them, it becomes obvious how your feeding schedule affects their performance. They respond very quickly.
TJ Thoreau yep. Tree planting depth, shape of the planting hole, fertilizing, both granulated and soluble types, composting and mulching are the differences between a tree that takes off like a rocket ship, a tree that languishes, and possibly even a tree that outright dies.
Figs do not require grafting. I strongly recommend not grafting figs, because if they are damaged in a late frost and get killed back to the ground, you'll lose your tree completely. Figs perform very well ungrafted. All my figs fruit within 6 months from starting the cutting. Grafting is a risk you don't need to take with few benefits.
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I followed this method quite closely, and my little fig tree looks so happy, even better than before transplanting. No transplant shock at all. I'm sure the fish fertilizer helped with that, as you've talked about in other videos. I mixed compost and a little sand with my clay soil, so fingers crossed.
You were so detailed in all the knowledge you shared- I had to sub. Thanks & Hey from Florida!
Thank you! I appreciate you subscribing!
my family has been growing figs in ground for over 80 years. Our climate is 7a And live in ct. my family came from Italy and when the family settled, they brought figs cuttings. We had a tree that was 70 years old. Never died in winter. Produced 2k figs a season. Hurricane sandy knocked down that tree. But have many more that produce heavily. If you need help learning how to care for a tree let me know.
Damian - my sis & I are learning a lot abt our family in Italy too--some settled in CT. Was this a common trajectory? My Sicilian grandpa had 3 fig trees in MI. Wonderful producers. He wrapped them carefully for winter with burlap.
my family was from San giovanni flore. Calabria they settled in the WV coal mines. I now live in Oakland Ca about as Mediterranean as you can get in the USA
I've read somewhere that these trees can live for like 200 years. That's insane. If you grow one and it establishes and thrives, it could outlive you by about 3 times
Word ur probly my cousin.
Do you have a Website/RUclips?
Thank you for your knowledge! I got my 1st fig tree it is still in container. I plan on putting it in the ground by the winter . I live in Tulsa Oklahoma and I have fond memories of fig trees from my grandparents. So I know this tree mentioned in Bible is about knowledge and the first thing Adam and Eve covered up with. I will do my best to make it great like yours! Thanks for ur teaching me.
They're the world's oldest known cultivated fruit. I think it's because a lot of the earliest writings came from the Mediterranean/Middle East where the trees are native. They're amazing. Thank you for watching.
Is it still alive
Figs and olives are mentioned in Quran with God taking an oath on these. Amazing
That was an excellent tutorial for planting just about any fruit tree. Good one.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching.
@@TheMillennialGardener
Hello dear
I need a guidance
I m in Dallas fort Worth and have 2 fig trees. Every year they die and branches gets dry. And in this season they come back with new branches.
It's not getting a tree look, it's die every year and get bushy again.
What's the problem?
Last year it had nods for fruit but didn't came out😞😢
Hi! I came across you while searching how and where to plant my fig tree saplings. Great Video, Im glad I found your channel. Nice To Meet You!
Thank you so much 👍😄🇨🇦 good job 👍 I love ❤️ fig tree
I have always mixed compost and manure with native soil about 1/3 each until resently. Now I add hydro beads they save alot of watering.
Great video. I just planted a fig tree. Its about 30 feet from house and 20-30 ft from water main. So you think the roots will reach and damage the water main?
Hey Sir... hello from Western NC. I grew up in Wilmington. Nice to know you're there in the hometown - I've added you, and I enjoy your videos. Thanks very much ! - Robert
Thanks for subbing! Wilmington is a great town. We love it here.
@The Millennial Gardener do you have a video on how often to fertilize in-ground fig trees and what your ingredients are? Is it any different from your potted fertilizer regimen?
I live a few hours North of you on Coastal NC. I just put a Celeste into the ground last Fall. Set it in a mound a good 6" to 1' above the ground level. In a massive Island with flowers and comfery planted into the mound. There are 16 Breba figs forming already! I look forward to them... and the late Summer Crop.
About to put a LSU Purple, Negron, and Violette De Bordeaux into the ground within the next week or so.... along with a clone of the Celeste if I can't give it away to a neighbor.
MySuburbanHomestead interesting, I put a Celeste in ground last spring and I don’t have a single breba. Lucky you! Sounds like a good collection, although I would stress an I-258 or CdDN. Outstanding performers in our client that blow the flavor of the more common varieties away.
@@TheMillennialGardener
I have been eying the I-258 you have been talking about in several of your vids. I just may get one! What is the acronym CdDN stand for? I will read up on that type as well.
I have had my Celest in a half wine barrel now for a few years. So she has some root mass and size to her already. So I kind of cheated. lol
Long-term it is better to start off with a small plant though.
@@great0789 CdDN is Col de Dame Noir. Other popular varieties are CdDB (Col de Dame Blanc), CdDR (which could be Col de Dame Rimada or Col de Dame Roja) and CdDG (Col de Dame Grise or Col de Dame Gegantina). I have a Celeste in ground in my front yard, but I sort of regret it. The Col de Dame's are just on another level, at least if you have a longer growing season (220+ days). They need more ripening time than a Celeste, but they're all fantastic.
@@TheMillennialGardener Awesome. I will def read up on those then!
Worst case... scenario… you could always use your Celeste as a root stock. I only have my because it is a clone of a clone of a clone that I have lugged around for years. I have a clone of it I will try to give away too. lol
I bought it back before I knew there were so many different types of figs and flavor profiles.
However, I will keep it! At least I will know it is reliable in our climate. Once the other ones get big and prove themselves to be reliable I can pull it and put something new there if I wish at that time.
@@great0789 that is my plan. Last year, the Celeste had 100% fig drop. I'm going to see how it performs this year. If it does well and is very early, I'll keep it as an early tree because June figs are better than no figs! If it doesn't perform, I'll probably cut it down into 4 hands and graft on 4 varieties as a frankenfig.
Very informative video. Thank you
You're welcome!
Where I live is desert dirt I wanna dig like 4 feet deep and 2 feet wide and use fertile soil and warms and then constantly mulch and will this work and maybe slowly turn some of the desert dirt into something better for the plant? Or should I dig more in the ground
Do you have any tips on how to avoid or minimize damage from nematodes when planting in the ground here in south Florida? Should I keep them in a container until they are somewhat large to make sure the roots are strong enough to resist them? Any tips would be helpful.
With the large root system that some fig trees have, where should they be placed? I saw another comment where you said not next to my house. How about at the edge of my property near public sidewalks? Would it destroy it? Middle of my yard? Flat land, or slightly elevated? Just curious as I have three pants being put in place this coming Wednesday! Thanks.
I really like your videos , i do things much in the same way , i agree with much of what you do and i have been gardening for over fifty years and i am hard to please, but i like what you do , good luck with your trees , i would think you would have to wrap the in ground figs for the winter i think you said North Carolina , i am in Mass. and it is a challenge to get them threw the winter.
Thank you. I appreciate it. I did not protect any of my container trees all year and left them in pots in the middle of the yard and only 2 had dieback. All the rest were unharmed. My low last season was 22F, so it was pretty mild. I may need to wrap the trunks loosely the first couple years, but after they put on some caliper, they're pretty tough here. There is a Celeste a couple miles away half the size of a house, so many figs here are pretty bulletproof once well-established.
Thank you! This was very helpful.. Cheers
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Super helpful, for the most part. I only wish that you would have shown us how you applied the bucketful of dissolved nutrients. You mixed it all together then BOOM - you moved on to a different thing.
I have a complete playlist dedicating to fertilizing fig trees here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j
Excellent video! Thank you!
I am just south west of Charlotte, but a 7b micro climate. I think the varieties you grow will do well here.
I have several, what we call "local" gigs, probably brown Turkey, not sure. I'm on 16 acres but only have space for 2 more figs.
So, my question!
What are your favorite fresh eating fig varieties?
If you could only plant 2 varieties, 2 trees of each, in ground. What would they be?
I love your videos, thanks for making them!
Curious which two you chose.
Good info!! Thanks!
Is Spring the best time to plant a bare root fig? When it’s waking up or earlier?
I would recommend planting your fig immediately after your last chance of frost. Figs are more susceptible to late frost damage than most deciduous trees, because they come from very warm climates that rarely see frost. You can't plant them as early as something like a blueberry, peach, apple, or pear tree that can tolerate very cold temps.
Great video with allot of info. I up-potted my Brown Turkey about 2 weeks back and it came to a screaching halt. It's still green and looks healthy just not growing like it was before repotting.
Hello thanks for this vid. I’m a brand new wanna be gardener and adopted a fig tree in pot in Apr (it’s May) now has figlets!!!! I’m in Central TX and it’s 80s now and gets into triple digits. I’ve only been watering in pot and need help getting it into ground at a new property/build in the country. Ground is hard and mostly rocky so I’d like to plant in some of the foundation dirt that looks like red sand, dirt, clay. On the down slope below the water faucet so I water can flow down either by watering or rain. This is a test to see if I can get any fruit to grow. Perhaps a vegetable & flower garden later.
I have questions if you don’t mind answering.
1. Recommendations on location, soil mixture, & watering?
2. I know you recommended a raised bed for this, but do I need this for one tree. If so, how do I do this? Video on that?
Thanks!
Thanks dude!!!
What are your thoughts about worm castings? I love them and use them in most my containers/trees.
I've used them. I have a bag, but I can't say whether they make a difference.
Very good direction
Thanks for watching!
What was the distance on center between the trees, and would you add distance or not, now that you are 3 years out? We're in central NC, and I have 22 potted plants going in the ground this fall. Currently, I'm plotting the out on paper. Appreciate your videos.
good video. I sure wish you planted that second one perpendicular to the ground though!
Thanks. My Col de Dame Noir grew hard to the side. The lack of symmetry is throwing you off, isn't it? It bugged me, but I'll fix it by staking the new green growth and straighten it out.
How often do you water a new fig tree if planted in Texas summer
Hi, great video. Why didn't you restrict the roots from growing too vigorously, please?
Great channel
Thank you!
Is there a time of the year that’s best to plant the trees into the ground?
How much spacing did you do between the figs? Sorry if I missed it in the video. Thank you 👍
6 feet.
Thank you so much for such detail demonstration. You sit the root ball directly on top of the fertilizer of Natural Care and Bone meal, and it is not going to burn the root ? thank you.
No. They are organic fertilizers that must be processed by the natural bacteria, fungi and worms in the soil to be broken down, so they don't burn unless you use enormous quantities (which I did not use, I only used small handfuls). It is very important that you use organic fertilizers and not chemical slow-release fertilizers. Those you do not want to bury. Go organic and you won't have to worry.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you very much, noted, so, when I apply blood meal and bone meal, I don't need to spread them 6 inches away from the plant then. that's so good to know.
Good morning! Thank you so much for the awesome tutorial videos with enough detail even I can follow😂 i also live in NC. Along I-95 corridor. I just recieved a "Black Italian" fig tree for mothers day. Planting in the ground. super looking, full bushy right now. I have a large open space for it to grow which will get all day full sun. But during hurricane season i get full on wind so worried that out in open may not be best. Any thoughts?
I'm in Wilmington, so we get hurricanes all the time. There are old fig trees around the area. I wouldn't worry much about fig trees being damaged by wind. Even if there was damage, the trees will recover quickly. Figs are some of the most vigorously growing trees in existence, so as long as the roots stay healthy, you can literally cut a fig tree down to the ground in February and have a 6-8 ft tall bush/tree by November.
is there a best time to transplant into the ground? i’m in zone 7ab and its currently August
Hi I love your videos regarding your fig trees but one thing I haven't seen and maybe I've just missed it is how to know when your cuttings are ready to put in a pot? I have taken to Fig cuttings and just stuck them in a ground my trees are only a year old that I took them from but my figs cuttings took off and have leaves but they are planted with other plants in the container so I'm wondering how to know when I can take these out and plant them in a pot.
Nola Borrego I actually do have a video on potting here that may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/3g7aq5p34Dw/видео.html
You don’t want to up-pot until the roots are advanced enough that when you pull the root mass out, the roots hold the soil together. You want there to be a defined root ball.
Your situation is a little more complicated. If you’re just sticking cuttings in ground and you’ll need to dig them up to pot them, you’ll probably want to wait until the roots are somewhat strong because you’ll have to dig them up. You’re going to have to get a shovel under the roots and pull up the whole ball very carefully, then gently wipe the soil away as necessary. A trick to do so is to use a hose on SHOWER to simply wash the soil off a as tree you’ve lifted the root mass out of the ground. Then, the soil just melts away without hurting the roots.
Thanks for sharing watching your video planing to plant fig tree in my backyard New Jersey which type do you recommend from your expertise in this area 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I live in a much warmer climate, so I am not as familiar with fig trees that do well in the mid-Atlantic. Mostly up there, people plant Mt. Etna varieties like Marseilles Black and Chicago Hardy. I would research a class of fig tree called "Mt. Etna varieties." My personal favorite is I-258. I would recommend giving that a try, though I don't know how well it'll take 0 degree temps.
Thanks for the video and much success! do you keep mulch away from the trunk of the fig plants on containers too?
Giankees I try to, though it is hard in containers. Not as much decomposition occurs in containers because there aren’t earthworms and a thriving microbiome.
When do you recommend planting them in ground? After around 2 seasons in pot? Currently in a season of 1 gallon and I was thinking of uppotting or grounding next season.
Zone 8 and cooler, plant in spring to establish strong roots before freezes begin. If Zone 9 and warmer and freezes and freeze damage is rare, you can plant in fall or spring.
@@TheMillennialGardener let’s say it was from a cut I’m assuming leave it in a container for 1 season right? Or you can straight go from winter cut to ground for like zone 7
The roots won't mess with the fence? How big do these trees get?
A fence only lasts 10 years. Even less where I live because we have a tropical storm or hurricane every 1.7 years. It takes decades for fig trees to get very big, and they're specifically planted close to each other to compete with each other and have a dwarfing effect. By the time these fig trees become large enough, I'll be on my 4th or 5th fence. I'm actually espaliering these trees now, which will keep them permanently small if maintained.
What should the distance measure between the tree trunk and the side of the hole?
Grateful!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your videos. I have a lot of gophers in my land. What can I do to protect my trees?. The mesh they recomend doesn't work. Any ideas?
Gophers are not a pest I have, so I don't have a lot of experience with them. Have you tried burying some welded wire fence around your tree, or driving pieces of rebar into the ground? If you buy 2 ft pieces of rebar and hammer them into the ground 2 feet deep in a circle around the tree, you may be able to create a barrier. It's just a thought off the top of my head.
When I dug the hole for my tree I used a garden fork and I loosened up what I could and poked holes in the bottom of the hole as well, which got filled with loose soil, hopefully the roots have somewhere to go. I was a bit worried cause the soil was almost like clay which can be bad. But we'll see if my tree survives I guess.
I advocate for planting on mounds or raised beds for this reason. It really helps the trees send surface roots. What I do is I plant my trees high and let the root ball stick up about 3-4 inches out of the ground. Then, I dump several inches of compost, and then several inches of mulch, on top of the root ball to cover it. This will encourage the growth of surface roots, which will give your tree a way to establish very quickly if it's struggling to grow roots in tougher soil. All my trees have responded with immediate growth with this method. This video may help: ruclips.net/video/6_-aLxCOI8U/видео.html
What kind of watering schedule so you recommend in summer? We are planting in Central California where it gets over 100 degrees often.
Are your trees in-ground or in containers?
@@TheMillennialGardener in ground using this video as a guide. 😄
Have you ever used REV liquid organic growth stimulator?
No.
What are your thoughts on a fig tree guild? You say there’s a lot of shallow feeder roots from fig trees. Was thinking of clover as a nitrogen fixer and possibly comfrey. But not sure how it’s react to fig tree feeder roots. Thoughts? Thanks again and great video!
Hehe this is pure mentalmessstrbation :D i just dig a propper hole mix last years cow manure whit earth plant the tree vater it and mother nature take care of the rest....some times check on them thats it..
Thank you everybody is fine and they salute you :D
How many feet apart? Distance from fence? And, do you plan to top them keeping them to a certain height? We have Nero and Magnolia figs to plant. Thank you for the info.
How far apart you plant your trees should be tailored to your specific goals. These specific trees were planted 6 feet apart and 3 feet from the fence, but that is because I'm growing them in a high density, espaliered form. If you want your trees to simply grow naturally and you're not going to constantly train them, this spacing will not work out for you because it will require regular upkeep. If you want your trees to grow into large canopies, you may want to space them more like 15-20 feet apart. The closer you plant them, the more they will need to be cut back, shaped and maintained annually.
Is Plant Tone the same as Plant food?
Plant Tone is just a brand of fertilizer made by the company Espoma. Any organic fertilizer roughly close to a 5-5-5 NPK is good enough.
Do you need to fluff up and tease the roots on the sides as well as the bottom?
It depends how root-bound the tree is. If the roots are root-bound and spiraling very hard, it isn't a bad idea as long as the tree is still pretty dormant. If there is no spiraling, it isn't really necessary.
I have a 6 year old fig orchard. I have found that I needed to plant my fig trees 25' apart each tree eventually grew to 20' girth that is 10' to the trunk. I made the mistake of planting them 6' to 8' apart and can hardly get through the foliage. If you plant them close you will have to prune heavily every year so they dont get out of control.
Yes, that's correct. I am anticipating that. I am going to espalier them as double cordons that will branch out 3 feet in each direction. I will then hard prune them at 3 feet and allow the trunks to become large. My new figs will, in theory, grow vertically up on the cordons. Basically, I will be keeping them pruned and trained like grape vines. Of course, this assumes no cold damage, and I hope I'm not being too ambitious with figs in Zone 8a.
@@TheMillennialGardener That sounds great I will keep an eye on your progress!
Hi, l am very happy to listen to all your video . By my experience l can see you are biology and agricultural man who know what is talking about any way l am very happy to listen to your video. For my part l am a beginner. how to plant FIG TREE .l am leaving in MAURITIUS, l have a farm of one acre, the temperature in winter + - 17 degrees and in summer +- 26 degrees. the plot is in the middle of the island. The rainfall I + - 4000 m/m per year. my question is can l plant figure trees their Thanks to replying Maurice.
Maurice Tyack I’m actually an engineer, but I have a good background in all the sciences because of it. Figs are deciduous trees, so they need a cool season for them to drop their leaves. Since your climate is very warm all year, I do not know how well they will grow. They need a “reset” period for them to lose their leaves and grow new ones back, so if the trees don’t lose their leaves in your winter like they’re supposed to, you should pull them off manually. Remove all of them during the middle of your winter. That should help trick the tree into putting on all new growth, which may help rejuvenate the tree.
Awesome vid!
Ps. I’m thinking terrace board against the fence a well would be a good idea to prevent rot. Happy growing!
Anything you can do to add drainage will help the rot issue. I'm a fan of planting high. Thanks for watching!
Hey can't wait till this comes out! Also Ive been looking everywhere for info on how to make my own garden soil. Every video online is about potting soil and I'm trying to get all my trees out of pots and in the ground. Would love some info on how to recreate that !
ALBONGardens the difference between potting soil and garden soil is just the difference in peat moss. Peat moss is the fluffy additive that retains moisture, and potting soil has a lot of peat moss whereas garden soil does not.
Let’s say potting soil has 40% peat, 40% topsoil and 20% humus, plus perlite and fertilizer.
Garden soil may be 20% peat, 60% topsoil and 20% humus, plus fertilizer.
I made up those numbers randomly, but you get the idea. That’s really the only difference - the peat, and they usually add in perlite for drainage. If you read the bags, they tell you what’s in it. Potting soil is so expensive because you’re paying for peat moss and perlite so it’s “fancy”. You can make your own for a fraction of the price by buying bricks of coir and cheap topsoil and humus, then mixing it all in a wheelbarrow. With potting mix, you just use a much higher ratio of coir/peat.
I just ordered in a truckload of locally made turkey compost for my garden soil from a landscape supply place. $45/cubic yard. You’ll go broke fast trying to make garden soil out of bags if you have more than one raised bed. It is cheaper to truck stuff in and wheelbarrow it over.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the info! It got me thinking and doing more research. I guess since figs don't need too much water and clay has poor drainage properties, having a 50-50 compost/humus-topsoil mix should work? Maybe 10-15% peat moss would help a little or I can just put on a thick layer of mulch. I will try this out. Thanks for the help!
ALBONGardens figs are drought tolerant, but when they have a mature root system. In their native habitat, they have tremendous root systems and grow on top of limestone pockets that stay damp, so their spiderweb-like roots can hunt for water in these damp pockets effectively. If you are growing them in rocky soil that stays damp, they won’t need a lot of water. If they’re grown in sandy soil that does not retain moisture, you’ll need to mulch heavily and water. If you grow figs in containers, they need a ton of water in the heat of the summer. Don’t be fooled - their drought tolerance is due to their spiderweb-like root systems that hunt for water retained in rocky moisture pockets. If you’re growing in sand like I am, they won’t be as drought tolerant.
@@TheMillennialGardener every area of my yard is so different. Some places it doesn't drain well and other places it's fine. I just have to play around and experiment. I wish I had you size back yard but unfortunately I don't so will make the most of what I have. Keep the videos coming. I enjoy watching them :)
ALBONGardens it took me 2 years of hunting to find a plot that worked for me. It’s certainly not large, but it is significant for my needs. I would advise better draining soil. It is better to have too much drainage than not enough. I would recommend planting the tree high regardless to avoid root rot.
how often do you change the soil in your 5 gal pots ? every year ?
They’re good for about 2-3 years. You can see the root pruning video here: ruclips.net/video/-oOwNiZzGmM/видео.html
👍😄🙋♀️👍🙏good job
Thanks for watching!
I planted my fig tree in the ground about a month ago and it's doing great. Is it necessary to add any of the products at the 3:45 mark?
It's not necessary to add those products in terms of the fig tree establishing. However, if you want the tree to grow quickly and flourish, they will greatly help you.
@@TheMillennialGardener Coming back to this to thank you but also because it looks like my tree died back to the base because of our freeze in Texas. There is a growth bud that's maybe an 1/8". I added compost and fresh mulch around it to give it a boost. Is it ok if I still add these products? I assume I'd just sprinkle them around the tree.
Fig trees have a gigantic root system, are you worried these will all take over the yard and next door? I want to plant a fig but thats whats holding me back. Ill have a garden with one fig taking up the whole garden in time underneath the soil.
Not particularly. My neighbor is from Sicily and loves figs as much as I do. It takes him back to his childhood. He can't wait to reach over the fence and pick them :) I would NOT plant these up against a house for this reason, though.
when is the best time to transplant them from pot to ground, i live in NY.
The best time in your location is immediately after your last frost date in the spring so the tree can have the longest frost-free period possible to establish. Planting late in the season ensures the tree won't establish, and it'll be very susceptible to cold damage.
Do you have a series on firtilizing in-ground Fig Tree?
Yes. I have a playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j
Hello my dear can you please show me how to cut a fig tree thank you so much 👍😄🙏
Where did you buy your fig tree? Thanks
Hey wondering when would be the best time to plant my fig trees into ground. I'm in Merced CA USDA hardiness zone 9a .
The safest time is always in early spring immediately after your last frost. If you are in Zone 9, you may be able to plant now during the fall. However, if you're liable to see Arctic blasts, I would hold off. I would not want to expose young fig wood to temps in the low 20's or teens. That can kill the wood back.
Do you not need to fluff out the sides of the root ball, just the bottom?
It depends how root-bound they are. Those had been sitting in the buckets for a year, so they're not terribly root-bound. They are enormous, now, after 2 years.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks
Hi I didn't hear it in the video but how far apart are you spacing your plants from each other?
The fig trees are 6 feet apart. This is pretty high density for espalier growing.
Do you plant on planting any other fruit trees? (apples, peaches etc)
I have a persimmon tree in a container that is breaking dormancy right now, so I'll be planting that. I also ordered a Meyer Lemon, but they messed up and sent me a Harvey Lemon, so I need to exchange that. I'll be putting the Meyer in ground. I currently have an Owari Satsuma and Lila Avocado in-ground, as well as a pineapple guava and three types of bananas. I have 2 more types of bananas in transit, as well. I intend to add 2 paw paw's in the future, as well as many more figs as I trial more varieties. I don't intend on growing apples. It's too hot where I am for good apples. Peaches I'm on the fence about because they're a lot of work and I can get really good local peaches from South Carolina. I'm also looking at grape varieties that can survive here, but there aren't many.
The Millennial Gardener cool! I’m in Connecticut so I’m in a different world over here
DOES THE MOON PHASE HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH PLANTING THE TREE?
Not that I'm aware of.
Hi,
Did you remove the leaves from your fig tree while it grew ?
Deb D no. I do not recommend ever removing leaves while it is growing.
How would one go about recreating the tree shape of the fig tree located on the center patio of the United States botanical garden?
pete thegreat do you have a photo? I’m unfamiliar with the tree.
can you recomen a nortgern fig that can be planted on the ground? am in central new jersey zone 7a. thank you
christine sohn most figs can be planted in Zone 7 if you’re willing to mulch heavily around the base and let them simply be killed down to the ground annually. Is that ok with you? It would be hard to recommend a hardy fig for you since I’m in Zone 8, but pretty much any Mt. Etna type will probably be fine, as well as hardy varieties like Olympian.
Chicago hardy fig or Celeste fig will be fine
I missed whether you covered soil PH or not.
Figs prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Somewhere in the 6-7 range is ideal.
Do mice like fig trees?
Do you have an update of these trees ? Im about ready to plant one , im having a hard time with location , the spot i had chosen has poor drainage what can i do to fix that if anything? I live in the desert and have heavy clay soil, i know i have to amend the soil, but anything else i can do? Thanks for any advice.
Make a mound or slight hill
what season is the best to plant figs
Tony&Terri Giusti as soon as last chance of frost is over in spring. The earlier the better once you’re frost free. You want to give them as much time to establish before the winter as possible.
can you please discuss the 6 ft spacing between the trees?
Certainly. If you look in most fruit tree orchards, they monocrop with 10-20 foot spacing, in general, depending on what they're growing. Spacing is usually excessive so they can get heavy equipment in there to harvest. For the backyard gardener, I recommend much closer spacing and using simple pruning techniques to control growth. I will be double cordon espaliering my figs, so I want very close spacing. My first cordon will be at 18-24", and the second at 36-48" (I haven't decided yet), so I can harvest my fruits without resorting to a ladder. I will be pruning to control the growth and not allowing them to become large trees. I'm finding 6 feet is about the minimum spacing for most trees, so I'm going for high density planting.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you. love love all your videos.
@@nickka2009 thank you! I really appreciate that!
When can I plant fig trees
Won't the fence get messed up by the roots?
A fence only lasts 10 years. Even less where I live because we have a tropical storm or hurricane every 1.7 years. It takes decades for fig trees to get very big, and they're specifically planted close to each other to compete with each other and have a dwarfing effect. By the time these fig trees become large enough, I'll be on my 4th or 5th fence. I'm actually espaliering these trees now, which will keep them permanently small if maintained.
That is one year past, could you show us these tress nowadays's condition?
I have tons of videos on these trees throughout the season. Here is a recent pruning video: ruclips.net/video/gvY8PCnWgjM/видео.html
Is there a better way to contact you than through here? I have some question on some cuttings I have rooted. Not sure if i should fert them in the cup or up pot them.
Here or Instagram is best. RUclips doesn't always send notifications, so sometimes it's best to comment on a different video if I don't respond within a couple days.
can you plant them if they already have leaves
Yes. But it's best to plant a fig tree in the spring after frost chance so it has as much time to establish as possible. You can probably still plant a fig tree now, but it's getting late if you see frost in October or sooner.
It looks like you planted your figs about ten feet apart. I don't have so much space so if I do plant mine in ground, I plan about four feet apart--for maximum sun, and my yard gets some shade periodically from neighboring properties on either side, so the figs should get 6-8 hours of sun every day. I also plan to avoid water lines, another thing I need to recognize in planting a fig or most trees, really. Therefor, also my internal debate on whether to actually plant in ground! I am in zone 8b in Austin.
I detail the spacing in the video. They are 6 feet apart. I have them planted closet, because I espalier them. If you are going to plant them this closely or even closer, you are going to want to espalier them as well, or at least prune them very tightly. Otherwise, they are going to heavily shade each other, which can impact fruit quality and ripening times.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
That root ball is still root bound you should have taken a utility knife and made cuts down the side of it
All these trees are 10+ feet tall now. The key is planting fig trees elevated, so the trees can send surface roots when they're young. The roots will grow rapidly and aggressively.
Im ready to watch this ..........!
Is it ok to transplant my fig tree in the ground these days.
M. A most likely it’ll still have time to establish before the winter. If you think it will be 3-4 months until your first frost, you should be fine. But don’t wait too much longer.
How do you know when to plant the tree in the ground?
Fig trees should be planted in the early spring after your last chance of frost in areas that see cold temperatures that can cause dieback. If you live in a mild climate where it rarely freezes or frosts during the winter and doesn't get very cold, you can also transplant in the fall.
@@TheMillennialGardener I live in East Tennessee, and I ready it’s zone 7a. So based on your reply, I should plant it early spring and not late fall, right?
How far apart did you plant the figs trees.
Exactly 6 feet apart.
Thank you
@@IrmaHammond you're welcome!
@@TheMillennialGardener That's quite close. Will be hard pruning them when they get bigger?
@@ceili yes. 6 feet is pushing the lower limits of spacing, in my opinion. I will be going for an espalier setup, growing them similarly to grape vines, and cutting them back to the cordons annually. Close spacing like this is something you'll need to maintain or else it'll grow like a thicket.
Do you have any fig trees planted in ground? How many and which varieties? Let us know in the Comments below!
I have 1 Brown Turkey, 2 Tiger Pinache, 2 Black Mission, 1 White Kadota, 1 Desert King.
AZgardener nice. How do they perform in your climate?
I have one Brown Turkey and will be planting a Chicago Hardy this year
@@TheMillennialGardener They are all doing excellent. They grow very fast. I'm in zone 9b.
Patrick Lee how are they working out for you?
I was always told to contain the roots of fig trees if you plant them in ground, otherwise the roots can cause serious problems to foundations etc, as they can spread very very far…
I have mixed feelings on this. On one hand, fig roots can be invasive, yes. However, if you look all around the Mediterranean and in areas of the Northeast where many Greek and Italians emigrated to back in the early 1900's, it's very common to see fig trees growing up against a wall. It's common practice to espalier them up against a brick wall, in fact. So, there are countless examples of people doing this. For me personally, I will not plant a fig against my home because it is a slab foundation and I don't want hardwood roots going under my slab foundation. However, if you have a deep foundation, it may be less of a problem. I don't know what to recommend here aside from exercising caution if you're very worried.
When? should we plant a fig tree?
It depends on your zone. Zone 9 or warmer, Spring or Fall. Colder than that, Spring.
Do they like full sun?
They require full sun. Figs need at least 6 hours of unobstructed, unfiltered sun a day. However, more is better. Figs are sun-loving trees that are native to the Mediterranean and one of the few trees that thrive in the Middle East.
Does your dog dig up the bone or blood meal? My dachshunds think it’s an Olympic event to dig these yummy ingredients up!
How do you know your fig trees need all of those chemicals?
Because I can quickly see the physical change in the fig trees. When you tend to your trees and observe them, it becomes obvious how your feeding schedule affects their performance. They respond very quickly.
Is there more steps than 1.dig a hole. 2. Put tree in said hole ????
There's a bit more to it than that
TJ Thoreau yep. Tree planting depth, shape of the planting hole, fertilizing, both granulated and soluble types, composting and mulching are the differences between a tree that takes off like a rocket ship, a tree that languishes, and possibly even a tree that outright dies.
Sweet, sounds interesting!
With that commentary I am ready to earn a PhD in fig gardening.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
So nice of you, to educate people on this.
In greafted trees grow 10 times as fast
Figs do not require grafting. I strongly recommend not grafting figs, because if they are damaged in a late frost and get killed back to the ground, you'll lose your tree completely. Figs perform very well ungrafted. All my figs fruit within 6 months from starting the cutting. Grafting is a risk you don't need to take with few benefits.
@@TheMillennialGardener yea your right idk why I put that there my trees grew back from the graft 10 times as fast