Bought aniioki a8 dual motor, past 500 miles on it, I can ride 3 times on one charge. lol so if it goes down few volts over year it will still take you everywhere going up to 40-45 miles an hour throttle only for hourssssssss. Absolutely love it. If I had a garage like you I’d be even more happy, in NYC I have to take it in elevator but it fits
Turns out this issue is very common with the 2024 Wired e-bikes. I admin of the Wired Facebook group and I’ve seen at least a dozen or more posts from members who have charged their batteries fully and noticed the voltage reaches either 66.6 volts or 67.2 volts. These two numbers seem to be consistent. A few of the guys have managed to get their batteries up to 67.2 volts by 'top balancing'. To do this, leave the battery on the charger for an extra 8 hours after the green light indicates it's fully charged. You might need to do this a couple of times. Or you can charge it completely in the evening and then reconnect the charger 8 or 9 hours later to top it off. Basically the charger stops when it detects that one cell has reached 4.2V, which is when the green light comes on. However, the other cells might not all be at 4.2V yet, so the charger continues to add a small amount of voltage to balance them all out at 4.2V each. Good luck! PS - Tell Steve I said hi. He just helped me out last week with an issue I was having on my Freedom. - Scott
Thanks for this post. I do not Facegram or Instabook so this info is appreciated. Tried both methods you mentioned a few times with no result. Maybe I'll try again. Wonder if a different charger could be needed. RUGER
I thought this was a 60 Volt Battery? Its charging to over 60 volts sounds good to me. Good for the company to send you a new controller - That's good customer service right there... I would ride it and not worry about it bro. Don't sweat the small stuff. Its a good bike - Ride it like a cowboy!
The electronics in the multimeter are better than the display. Send Steve the display back. There is nothing wrong with the bike. My battery fully charged reads 66.3v with my multimeter. We don't live in a perfect world.
All batteries decrease, if you own a Tesla you know the battery is not the same charge overtime. You have to follow directions in battery care to get the longest life out of the battery. Besides Ecelle would have never sent you a new display for your testing. Ecells usual response is they are out of stock.
Hello from Tucson. Love your rides and your rants! My wife and I share four bikes from Lectric and write almost every day. We do have some great trails here. Looking forward to getting up to Phoenix and riding south mountain.
Def want one of these or something like it. Just have a rigid frame e-trek that I love but want something for thrashing around a little more irresponsibly. Don’t wanna ruin my trek commuter too quickly haha. Figure having a rager bike like that will help me take some strain off the main bike, as I ride daily and could then alternate. Dig your channel bruh!
Too annoying! (hope that helps 😁) Also, maybe you could film the grill while slow cooking a brisket? Give us 6-12 hours of grill heaven... I appreciate (and largely agree with) your ebike perspective and experience with the Wired Freedom. Thanks!
@@RugersLastResortIf your charger is only putting out 67.0 volts, that’s the maximum charge with that charger. My Wired charger only puts out 66.7 volts and that’s as high as my battery charges. You can always try a different charger but that last half volt is not worth the battery degradation it causes imo.
I think that this issue may be a cause of unlocking the bike, as crazy as that may sound. We Wired Freedom owners know that this bike delivers some serious power when fully unlocked. But, with that said, this is concerning. My 2024 Wired Freedom sometimes drops down to 65 volts when I let the bike sit for a few minutes before taking it out to ride. It fluctuates between 66 and high 65 volts. The bike is a beast even with all that said. I have not tried the Freedom with the default settings to see if this is the case.
Yeah, mine will drop a full voltage point as I put on my helmet and gloves! Unlocking could be an issue but I'm not convinced. It's still a fun bike for sure. RUGER
When the cells are fully charged to 4.2v, they will drop immediately on removing the charger and a little more as soon as there is any load applied. There is very little stored energy capacity between 4.1v and 4.2v and only slightly more between 4.1v and 4.0v. With 16 cells in series, if each is at the full charge of 4.2v then your battery would read 67.2v. If it reads 66v, then each cell might be at the average of 4.125v (but most likely some will be a hundredth of a volt higher or lower). And if at 65v then each average 4.0625 or an average drop of 1/16 of a volt. That's not even peanuts. That's just noise in the measurements.
Unfortunately misinformation like some comments here might have led to your problem. These batteries, like cordless tool batteries, use a dumb BMS that will ONLY perform balancing maintenance after the charger light has turned green and the battery is left on the charger. If you always immediately unplug it, then it will slowly drift out of balance because it was never given time. And balance current on these BMS is typically only 20-30 milliamps. So it takes an hour to bleed 20-30 mah off the highest brick. If you neglect it too long, or if a cell dies, the pack can get so far out of balance that the BMS cannot balance it because it closes charge port before any meaningful balancing occurs. To test if your battery can fix itself, use your multimeter to measure the open voltage of your charger. If 60v li-ion charger it should be 67.2v-67.3v. Next charge your battery until the charger light turns green and then leave it connected for an hour. Next quickly disconnect the charger and use your multimeter to measure pack voltage. If it was within 0.2v of the charger open voltage and slowly dropping, then it can fix itself just by leaving it on the charger for 8 hrs at a time until it no longer drops to more than 0.2v below the charger open voltage. If however the battery voltage instantly drops to 66v, it means the BMS was seeing one brick too high and closed the charge port. Then the cell voltage subside below the balance voltage so no balance occurs, yet it doesn’t drop low enough to release OVP. In this situation the BMS is never given an opportunity to do maintenance. So the way to fix it is open the pack and manually balance all the bricks using a hobby charger to drain the high cells and fill the low cells. Once it’s manually top balanced, the BMS can once again do its job as long as the pack is left on the charger for an hour after the light turns green. The amount of time the pack needs to be left on the charger depends on how often you fully charge. If only once a month, you might need to leave it on the charger for 12 hours. After getting it fully top balanced, then you can ride it down to 80% so that its never sitting days at 100%. Often this problem occurs when a cell dies. The only way to know that with a cheap bms is to open the pack and top balance it, drain the pack and check each bricks. If one brick hit LVP while the others are still 3.5v or so, then a cell died.
I did not fully understand everything you wrote. However, I see the overall point. I will not be tearing the pack apart, that's above my paygrade for sure. Thanks for the info, perhaps it will help someone with the skills. RUGER
@@RugersLastResort , well you can try the first method, especially if you have typically pulled it off the charger as soon as the light turns green. Just plug ij the charger and let it charge 12-24 hrs after the light turns green. If the BMS did not close the charge port, it will balance. If it closed the charge port, it will not. After 12 hrs you will either see it higher than before or just the same as your last charge. Opening the pack is not so hard and normally you can access everything you need without tearing the pack apart (beyond removing the cover). But if you don’t have a hobby charger its not easy to balance it. If you charge it overnight and it doesn’t get better then the manufacturer should offer to swap with a new/refurbished pack. If your battery shuts down before it reaches 48v (3.0v/cell) then most likely one cell died and that brick now only has 60-80% capacity. Be patient when balancing because if your pack is even only 10Ah, and you need to bleed even only 1% out of it (100mah) then that will take 5 hrs with the charger on and light green. I will try 6-8 hrs and then test it.
@@RugersLastResort i have a basic video showing how to test without opening the pack on a 48v pack (same process). I’ll post the link below in case your spam filter is set high so you can dig it up lol.
Honestly the people getting a topped out battery should be more concerned to get a replacement for their battery. If an adapter/charger or even the battery itself is allow you to overcharge your battery, i'd imagine that the degregation long term is going to fail really bad vs the typical user that isn't monitoring their battery charges. You could probably circumvent this by doing the whole 20-80 thing, but a user in 2024, shouldn't have to create timers to charge their batteries and take them off the charger. We have had the technology to be able to automate these processes for a few decades at this point, and althgouh the ebike community is a bit newer in the scene, this shouldn't be a hard thing to be able to implement in my opinion.
As far as the difference between the DMM and the bike's voltmeter, you will read difference between a open load battery voltage and a slightly loaded battery voltage. On the bench the battery is unloaded and on the bike when you turn ON the bike, the battery is under a small load (powering the controller, display, etc). Same as a car battery will read one voltage with the car off and a slightly lower voltage if you turn accessories on and measure it again. That said your capacity may be dropping, especially if it read 67V+ on the bike new. I haven't even checked voltage on mine yet (in % mode). I have been doing a decent amount of 1 battery rides and already it seems like I've lost a little range after only about 10 cycles. I charge till the light is green. I don't have the patience to keep unplugging it and checking if I'm at 80% or whatever. Maybe I'll try the top balancing strat or get a higher end ebike battery charger if I get bothered down the line. Now go throw a shrimp on that Bar-B and have a G'day, lol. 😁
The display is a load and every load is going to have a certain amount of voltage drop. Being that the display voltage is 300mv lower than test port voltage on a consistent basis based on other commenters observations I'd be willing too state that the display itself has voltage drop of 300mv.
I have a wallke H6 ST which exhibits the same thing. I can check my 48 volt battery off the charger and it shows 54.6 fully charged but the display only shows like 54.2 volts. Somewhere between the battery and the display it is consuming a little bit of voltage
Interesting. I’ve only been using the percentage meter on the display. On my new dual battery Freedom, the percentage drops from 100% to 91% almost immediately. Like within a quarter mile. I haven’t followed up with a voltage measurement to see what’s going on.
Its The wiring harness, the one that goes from the controller to display. They sent me a new display and controller didn't fix the problem got a new harness. Problem solved
Wobbling for a year. This or the other bike then got overheated thinking about all of this but then looking at the warranty that Weird bike covers nothing if you take it out of unlocked. So yeah the other bike coming in a couple of weeks. Yay!
Hey charity case! Yeah, I guess it's possible but doesn't explain why the battery voltage was accurate for the first few weeks, or month, of ownership. This may not be a big deal but if the controller only thinks we're starting with 66.5-6 volts, then we're leaving power and distance on the table, maybe? RUGER
You should never charge your battery to 100%. 95% max if you need the range. 80% to 20% is ideal and will give you 4x the cycles compared to 100%-0. This applies to all lithium batteries except the lifepo4 which can be fully cycled without damage. Elon has all teslas charge up to 80% with a warning not to charge above 80% unless necessary and Elon is building rocket ships to Mars so I’d listen to his advice.
@@CamFlowers No there's not, which is why this advice is unrealistic. Charging to 100% can be bad for the battery if your planning to keep it there for long storage cases. For most average users that are going to use the device pretty soon, the damage that you are doing is negligible. Technology around batteries has gotten really good over the last decade, and in most cases there are limiters set both through the charger as well as the battery itself to prevent damage to the unit. The range also doesn't matter for the 80 to 20% rule, I generally think that statistic is a result of people misunderstanding the source it came out of. The range/time you have it on charge is what actually matters. The less time you have your battery on charge, the longer you will preserve the battery life, as what ultimately damages your battery is exposing it to heat. 40 to 100% from what I've seen provides a similar rate of degregation that you see from results from people doing a 80 to 20%. You also can see even better battery span the less time you leave it on charge, but the 80/20 rule is what's recommended in most cases because it was what was agreed upon was the the best amount of time to give to users for a realistic time before charging.
@@CamFlowersget a charger like the grin tech cycle satiatior , and u can charge it to a specific level. But Junk chargers that come with bikes always just charge to 100%. Unless u calculate how much you have discharged. Then set a timer on your charger. U could approximate it.
I use a timer, works great. 65 volts is about 90% and plenty of range. A big advantage of dual batteries is you can get massive range while staying within the 80-20 rule.
@@TFDuskDo some more research, I think you are wrong on a few points. Fully charging or depleting a battery creates heat and causes battery degradation. Keeping batteries fully charged is bad as is keeping them fully discharged and will ruin them quickly. Charging to 90% gets you 2.5x the cycles, while charging to 80% get you 4x. If taken care of, these batteries will last longer than you will.
BATTTERY PROBLEMS: Hey All - FYI charged the battery for...24 HOURS straight. Mounted to bike and....yeah, 66.6 volts 😒😒 I give up. RUGER
Bought aniioki a8 dual motor, past 500 miles on it, I can ride 3 times on one charge. lol so if it goes down few volts over year it will still take you everywhere going up to 40-45 miles an hour throttle only for hourssssssss. Absolutely love it. If I had a garage like you I’d be even more happy, in NYC I have to take it in elevator but it fits
Turns out this issue is very common with the 2024 Wired e-bikes. I admin of the Wired Facebook group and I’ve seen at least a dozen or more posts from members who have charged their batteries fully and noticed the voltage reaches either 66.6 volts or 67.2 volts. These two numbers seem to be consistent.
A few of the guys have managed to get their batteries up to 67.2 volts by 'top balancing'. To do this, leave the battery on the charger for an extra 8 hours after the green light indicates it's fully charged. You might need to do this a couple of times. Or you can charge it completely in the evening and then reconnect the charger 8 or 9 hours later to top it off.
Basically the charger stops when it detects that one cell has reached 4.2V, which is when the green light comes on. However, the other cells might not all be at 4.2V yet, so the charger continues to add a small amount of voltage to balance them all out at 4.2V each. Good luck!
PS - Tell Steve I said hi. He just helped me out last week with an issue I was having on my Freedom. - Scott
Thanks for this post. I do not Facegram or Instabook so this info is appreciated. Tried both methods you mentioned a few times with no result. Maybe I'll try again. Wonder if a different charger could be needed.
RUGER
I thought this was a 60 Volt Battery? Its charging to over 60 volts sounds good to me. Good for the company to send you a new controller - That's good customer service right there... I would ride it and not worry about it bro. Don't sweat the small stuff. Its a good bike - Ride it like a cowboy!
The electronics in the multimeter are better than the display. Send Steve the display back. There is nothing wrong with the bike. My battery fully charged reads 66.3v with my multimeter. We don't live in a perfect world.
Yeah, I sent the display back. Funny though, I have other lipo units that have worked flawlessly....for years! RUGER
All batteries decrease, if you own a Tesla you know the battery is not the same charge overtime. You have to follow directions in battery care to get the longest life out of the battery. Besides Ecelle would have never sent you a new display for your testing. Ecells usual response is they are out of stock.
This is true! Everything is out of stock with ecells and they have no idea when they will get stock in back
Hello from Tucson. Love your rides and your rants! My wife and I share four bikes from Lectric and write almost every day. We do have some great trails here. Looking forward to getting up to Phoenix and riding south mountain.
Hey Neighbor thanks to both of you for watching 👍 Yeah South Mountain could be a nice ride for sure! RUGER
You sound like a sports radio host. 😂😂 I’ve yet to buy a wired but I always watch your videos. Good stuff. Ride on !
Wow, thanks 😄 RUGER
@@RugersLastResortthe old C7... Ahhh😊
WHAT, YOU WANT PERFECTION IN A IMPERFECT WORLD?????
Sure, why not! RUGER
A fallen world. But Jesus the Messiah is coming back after the 7 year tribulation. He loves you so much. He created you. Please don't be left behind
Wow, some actual useful info coming outve the last resort. Strange 😁. Good info. Thx Ruger
Ha ha yeah I gotta have my head examined 😉😉 RUGER
Def want one of these or something like it. Just have a rigid frame e-trek that I love but want something for thrashing around a little more irresponsibly. Don’t wanna ruin my trek commuter too quickly haha. Figure having a rager bike like that will help me take some strain off the main bike, as I ride daily and could then alternate. Dig your channel bruh!
They are fun, quick rides for sure. Thanks for watching! RUGER
Wires in harness are too skinny.
Thanks for that comment. Why are the wires like human hairs?
Too annoying! (hope that helps 😁) Also, maybe you could film the grill while slow cooking a brisket? Give us 6-12 hours of grill heaven...
I appreciate (and largely agree with) your ebike perspective and experience with the Wired Freedom. Thanks!
Ha ha I appreciate the complaint! Maybe I'll go one better and film a crock-pot dealeo.... RUGER
A true way to find out what's going on is using a certified calibrated volt meter to get a true reading. Just a thought. Great video
Wish I was more educated on electrical theory. But, maybe someone else will see your post and go for it. Thanks for the suggestion! RUGER
It’s like that last bit of gas below the empty line that only the owner knows .
COULD BE THE CHARGER
I did test the charger - it showed 67.0 Volts. But who knows?! RUGER
@@RugersLastResortIf your charger is only putting out 67.0 volts, that’s the maximum charge with that charger. My Wired charger only puts out 66.7 volts and that’s as high as my battery charges. You can always try a different charger but that last half volt is not worth the battery degradation it causes imo.
I think that this issue may be a cause of unlocking the bike, as crazy as that may sound. We Wired Freedom owners know that this bike delivers some serious power when fully unlocked. But, with that said, this is concerning. My 2024 Wired Freedom sometimes drops down to 65 volts when I let the bike sit for a few minutes before taking it out to ride. It fluctuates between 66 and high 65 volts. The bike is a beast even with all that said. I have not tried the Freedom with the default settings to see if this is the case.
Yeah, mine will drop a full voltage point as I put on my helmet and gloves! Unlocking could be an issue but I'm not convinced. It's still a fun bike for sure. RUGER
When the cells are fully charged to 4.2v, they will drop immediately on removing the charger and a little more as soon as there is any load applied. There is very little stored energy capacity between 4.1v and 4.2v and only slightly more between 4.1v and 4.0v. With 16 cells in series, if each is at the full charge of 4.2v then your battery would read 67.2v. If it reads 66v, then each cell might be at the average of 4.125v (but most likely some will be a hundredth of a volt higher or lower). And if at 65v then each average 4.0625 or an average drop of 1/16 of a volt. That's not even peanuts. That's just noise in the measurements.
Unfortunately misinformation like some comments here might have led to your problem. These batteries, like cordless tool batteries, use a dumb BMS that will ONLY perform balancing maintenance after the charger light has turned green and the battery is left on the charger.
If you always immediately unplug it, then it will slowly drift out of balance because it was never given time. And balance current on these BMS is typically only 20-30 milliamps. So it takes an hour to bleed 20-30 mah off the highest brick.
If you neglect it too long, or if a cell dies, the pack can get so far out of balance that the BMS cannot balance it because it closes charge port before any meaningful balancing occurs.
To test if your battery can fix itself, use your multimeter to measure the open voltage of your charger. If 60v li-ion charger it should be 67.2v-67.3v. Next charge your battery until the charger light turns green and then leave it connected for an hour.
Next quickly disconnect the charger and use your multimeter to measure pack voltage. If it was within 0.2v of the charger open voltage and slowly dropping, then it can fix itself just by leaving it on the charger for 8 hrs at a time until it no longer drops to more than 0.2v below the charger open voltage.
If however the battery voltage instantly drops to 66v, it means the BMS was seeing one brick too high and closed the charge port. Then the cell voltage subside below the balance voltage so no balance occurs, yet it doesn’t drop low enough to release OVP.
In this situation the BMS is never given an opportunity to do maintenance. So the way to fix it is open the pack and manually balance all the bricks using a hobby charger to drain the high cells and fill the low cells. Once it’s manually top balanced, the BMS can once again do its job as long as the pack is left on the charger for an hour after the light turns green.
The amount of time the pack needs to be left on the charger depends on how often you fully charge. If only once a month, you might need to leave it on the charger for 12 hours.
After getting it fully top balanced, then you can ride it down to 80% so that its never sitting days at 100%.
Often this problem occurs when a cell dies. The only way to know that with a cheap bms is to open the pack and top balance it, drain the pack and check each bricks. If one brick hit LVP while the others are still 3.5v or so, then a cell died.
I did not fully understand everything you wrote. However, I see the overall point. I will not be tearing the pack apart, that's above my paygrade for sure. Thanks for the info, perhaps it will help someone with the skills. RUGER
@@RugersLastResort , well you can try the first method, especially if you have typically pulled it off the charger as soon as the light turns green. Just plug ij the charger and let it charge 12-24 hrs after the light turns green.
If the BMS did not close the charge port, it will balance. If it closed the charge port, it will not.
After 12 hrs you will either see it higher than before or just the same as your last charge.
Opening the pack is not so hard and normally you can access everything you need without tearing the pack apart (beyond removing the cover). But if you don’t have a hobby charger its not easy to balance it.
If you charge it overnight and it doesn’t get better then the manufacturer should offer to swap with a new/refurbished pack.
If your battery shuts down before it reaches 48v (3.0v/cell) then most likely one cell died and that brick now only has 60-80% capacity.
Be patient when balancing because if your pack is even only 10Ah, and you need to bleed even only 1% out of it (100mah) then that will take 5 hrs with the charger on and light green. I will try 6-8 hrs and then test it.
@@RugersLastResort i have a basic video showing how to test without opening the pack on a 48v pack (same process). I’ll post the link below in case your spam filter is set high so you can dig it up lol.
Great info! Yes, I've actually left the charger on for about 6-8 hrs post green light. Perhaps I'll try a 24hr run to see what happens. RUGER
For sure, thanks 👍 RUGER
Is the range falling off? I mean if you aren't losing range or speed, whats the big deal? Even the multimeter says there isn't an issue
Good point. Not sure about range. I'm just going to live with it... (Steve at Wired has washed his hands of this, so what choice do I have?). RUGER
Honestly the people getting a topped out battery should be more concerned to get a replacement for their battery. If an adapter/charger or even the battery itself is allow you to overcharge your battery, i'd imagine that the degregation long term is going to fail really bad vs the typical user that isn't monitoring their battery charges. You could probably circumvent this by doing the whole 20-80 thing, but a user in 2024, shouldn't have to create timers to charge their batteries and take them off the charger. We have had the technology to be able to automate these processes for a few decades at this point, and althgouh the ebike community is a bit newer in the scene, this shouldn't be a hard thing to be able to implement in my opinion.
It's called BMS
As far as the difference between the DMM and the bike's voltmeter, you will read difference between a open load battery voltage and a slightly loaded battery voltage. On the bench the battery is unloaded and on the bike when you turn ON the bike, the battery is under a small load (powering the controller, display, etc). Same as a car battery will read one voltage with the car off and a slightly lower voltage if you turn accessories on and measure it again. That said your capacity may be dropping, especially if it read 67V+ on the bike new. I haven't even checked voltage on mine yet (in % mode). I have been doing a decent amount of 1 battery rides and already it seems like I've lost a little range after only about 10 cycles. I charge till the light is green. I don't have the patience to keep unplugging it and checking if I'm at 80% or whatever. Maybe I'll try the top balancing strat or get a higher end ebike battery charger if I get bothered down the line. Now go throw a shrimp on that Bar-B and have a G'day, lol. 😁
That makes sense. I still wonder why the battery slowly declined since new though!? Shrimp AND steak! RUGER RUGER
The display is a load and every load is going to have a certain amount of voltage drop. Being that the display voltage is 300mv lower than test port voltage on a consistent basis based on other commenters observations I'd be willing too state that the display itself has voltage drop of 300mv.
I have a wallke H6 ST which exhibits the same thing. I can check my 48 volt battery off the charger and it shows 54.6 fully charged but the display only shows like 54.2 volts. Somewhere between the battery and the display it is consuming a little bit of voltage
sounds like possibility a software or firmware issue in the display
No, tried new display but no dice! RUGER
Interesting. I’ve only been using the percentage meter on the display. On my new dual battery Freedom, the percentage drops from 100% to 91% almost immediately. Like within a quarter mile. I haven’t followed up with a voltage measurement to see what’s going on.
We may be chasing a ghost! RUGER
Is this the 2024 version?
It's the "early" 2024 version.... RUGER
@@RugersLastResort How do you like it? Any updates?
@@luigiprovencher Still a good bike. Not sure I'd buy another one but so far it's adequate. RUGER
@@RugersLastResort Okay. Thanks.
@@RugersLastResort Do you have a problem with the death wobble?
Its The wiring harness, the one that goes from the controller to display. They sent me a new display and controller didn't fix the problem got a new harness. Problem solved
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'll have to look into this.... RUGER
I had the same problem it was the harness had a broke wire inside
Interesting. Wonder how I'd ever diagnose that...hmm... RUGER
Did you get a new one? I'm still in between getting an Ecells or a Wired Freedom
Wobbling for a year. This or the other bike then got overheated thinking about all of this but then looking at the warranty that Weird bike covers nothing if you take it out of unlocked. So yeah the other bike coming in a couple of weeks. Yay!
What other bike did you get? RUGER
I don't walk around with phones either
You rebel! RUGER
Sorry display upside down. new video !(when clearly
how about instead of giving. the bike away BUY ANOTHER BATTERY for $ 800 from wired hmmmmm
Hey bro, just wanted to let you know my middle name is charity. 😏 The speedometer isn't accurate so maybe this applies to the voltage as well
Hey charity case! Yeah, I guess it's possible but doesn't explain why the battery voltage was accurate for the first few weeks, or month, of ownership. This may not be a big deal but if the controller only thinks we're starting with 66.5-6 volts, then we're leaving power and distance on the table, maybe? RUGER
You should never charge your battery to 100%. 95% max if you need the range. 80% to 20% is ideal and will give you 4x the cycles compared to 100%-0. This applies to all lithium batteries except the lifepo4 which can be fully cycled without damage. Elon has all teslas charge up to 80% with a warning not to charge above 80% unless necessary and Elon is building rocket ships to Mars so I’d listen to his advice.
is there any way of making the battery automatically stop at 80?
@@CamFlowers No there's not, which is why this advice is unrealistic.
Charging to 100% can be bad for the battery if your planning to keep it there for long storage cases. For most average users that are going to use the device pretty soon, the damage that you are doing is negligible. Technology around batteries has gotten really good over the last decade, and in most cases there are limiters set both through the charger as well as the battery itself to prevent damage to the unit.
The range also doesn't matter for the 80 to 20% rule, I generally think that statistic is a result of people misunderstanding the source it came out of. The range/time you have it on charge is what actually matters. The less time you have your battery on charge, the longer you will preserve the battery life, as what ultimately damages your battery is exposing it to heat. 40 to 100% from what I've seen provides a similar rate of degregation that you see from results from people doing a 80 to 20%. You also can see even better battery span the less time you leave it on charge, but the 80/20 rule is what's recommended in most cases because it was what was agreed upon was the the best amount of time to give to users for a realistic time before charging.
@@CamFlowersget a charger like the grin tech cycle satiatior , and u can charge it to a specific level. But Junk chargers that come with bikes always just charge to 100%. Unless u calculate how much you have discharged. Then set a timer on your charger. U could approximate it.
I use a timer, works great. 65 volts is about 90% and plenty of range. A big advantage of dual batteries is you can get massive range while staying within the 80-20 rule.
@@TFDuskDo some more research, I think you are wrong on a few points. Fully charging or depleting a battery creates heat and causes battery degradation. Keeping batteries fully charged is bad as is keeping them fully discharged and will ruin them quickly. Charging to 90% gets you 2.5x the cycles, while charging to 80% get you 4x. If taken care of, these batteries will last longer than you will.