i just wanna say... i love the way you're giving those small but needed technical information.... it makes you're videos (compearing the others) a real smooth class about what and how to do... thanks for sharing! always go on in the seme way!
I grew up watching my Dad machining parts for cnc machines. he always says casting is the sea of knowledge. the essence of all modern WORLD. hes right. thank you sir. beautifully done.
I saw this and thought this would be very basic and simple. But then I wondered why you didn't just run the riser right off the top (back) of the piece, as you often do. Using the gates to hold the piece down for initial milling is a BRILLIANT idea, and not putting the riser on the bottom made the machining MUCH simpler and straightforward than it otherwise would have been. I wouldn't be surprised if it also made internal stresses inside the piece more even. I am, as always, amazed and impressed with both your casting and machining skills, which you have combined here in an astounding fashion. Awesome video, and I have enjoyed this series immensely.
Im happy with watching the same old castings being done, you always learn something by watching someone else doing castings. It may be the same part, but at different angles and such, you'll notice you missed something that would be very helpful but never saw it at the right angle to fully understand it.
hi there. thanks a lot, your videos (among others) enthudiasted me enough as for starting to study matrix manufacturing. I admire your work and hope to get such skills some day. Thank s from Argentina
Ahh... so work holding it is. Very nice result and I hope you will get the improvement you expect from your engraver. Luckily nothing bad happened with the leaking flask... thanks for showing that... made me aware of some issues for planning my own cast. I might repeat myself... but you Sir do not seize to amaze me... and secretly I still hope you will find even more engraver "upgrades" to address. Thank you so much for sharing!
Fascinating stuff, even though I have no experience with this. Amazing that you could machine both sides of the T-slots at once - seems to machine like hardwood.
Beautiful work. I had wrongly assumed that each side of the T-slots needed to be cut individually. I'm really looking forward to trying casting this summer. Will certainly be consulting your videos. Best wishes
A mounting problem possibly. if the casting is not perfectly flat, which it mist likely would not be, originally clamping it down would distort casting. The machining would be done on a part that is distorted and once released would spring somewhat in taking the original shape. Is this something that needs to be taken into consideration and if so how best to clamp the piece in an un-distorted position. Also after machining do you encounter stress relief of the part that warps the part?? Again a great and entertaining video.
I have an idea for the future project list. A cnc machine with Art Deco style casted part's. You could design a casted spindle. Something short and heavy. For working with max 1 inch 6061. Using cheap Chinese linear rails. A bunch of them, to make it rigid. You could go totally Rube Goldberg i.e. Steam engine, pulley ect. Or just keep it simple. Either way. Your project are absolutely fantastic to watch on RUclips. Thank you for sharing them. It's material like you are presenting, that has made me get rid of the t.v. Cheer's to you myford boy.
Many years ago, I purchased your furnace build manual/book. I became too ill to make my own. At that time you weren't posting here. I am so glad you have gone back to sharing, thank you. I have a question please, why not cast iron? Am I mistaken to think iron is more durable although not as practical for the home machine shop? Once again I've been following just not posting, glad you are back publishing.
I think you may be confusing me with Colin Peck who has a book on building a furnace. I have no book but can send what plans i made for the furnace free to anyone wanting them. I have done a small amount of iron but for the things I make aluminium is quite suitable. Iron needs a higher temperature and is harder to machine.
Great vid! I always enjoy watching your work. I do have a question about your fixturing process though. What if you had leveled off the back first, then flipped it and placed the casting on some parallels (or a sacrificial plate)? That way you could level the top (without worrying about clamping related warping), mill the T-slots, and cut the sides straight with a largish end mill. Then add new clamps along the long sides, pull your short side clamps and mill those too so that everything stays trued to the bed throughout the entire operation as opposed to having to re-mount onto angle plates?
There are always several ways of machining a part. The back of the casting was flat and was strong enough not to twist under clamping. If thee back was uneven i would have done as you suggest. I chose to use the angle plate as my face cutter gives a better finish than using the side of an end mill.
I'm sure your original indexer could prevent rotation of the work whatever stresses your milling machine might dish out. In your new setup, rotation is prevented by that toothed belt. Is that sufficient?
When the indexer is used the motor is locked with the power from the controller but I still use the screw lock on top of the indexer for extra security.
I have watched a lot of casting videos and invariably the guys are doing the work on the floor on hands and knees. Seems like it would be so much easier standing in front of a bench.
For me it's best on the floor. I have 125 Kg of sand. If it were on a bench I would have to lift all that onto it after it has been conditioned. If the mould were made on the bench it then has to be lifted onto the floor for pouring. A large mould full of sand is very heavy. You may have seen me using a hoist to lift a mould after pouring it's just too heavy to lift from a bench. I have knee pads in my trousers and am pretty used to kneeling after a lifetime as an electrician.
I can see your point, but I see you lifting the drag and cope while kneeling, which is a potential back killer- doing each on a bench then assembling them on a floor puts the lifting at your knees, not your back. But thanks for the fun videos, I always look forward to watching your projects.
I was thinking "how is he going to get the sand out of the T slots"? AH, just cut a mortise not actually a T. You should give lost foam casting a try. This would have been perfect for it. You could get a piece of 1/2 (or 5/8") inch foam, cut your T slots, pack it full of sand then when it came time for the milling, you'd just have to do a little clean up with the cutter instead of hogging out all that material. I use owens corning pink and it has black printing on it. The detail is so great that the very very very slight indent from the thickness of the ink comes through in the casting. I have to use lost foam because I don't have access to reasonably priced "real" greensand. I just have to use my home made crap from kitty litter clay and beach sand. Although I've heard a good source for fine(r) sand is aquarium supply.
I'm just starting to get into casting, I really do enjoy watching your videos. I'm glad you show the mistakes since that's a huge part of it. Lots of people are to proud to do that. Can you tell me about mixture of metal you used? I saw it was aluminum and ZL12 but what Percentage? 50/50?
I use aluminium for most parts, alloy car wheels. for good results don't use anything that has not been cast before . For flywheels where I want something heavy I use the ZL12. I buy it as ingots. It's 12% Al and 88% zinc. Machines like a dream.
myfordboy and because it feels great to do it! Seeing a form appearing out of the sand is very satisfyingly. Making an item from what is basically molten waste or scrap metal is the ultimate in recycling and what's to not like about that? Oh and we all get the pleasure of watching and learning,it's a win all round!
ScotsFurian some things we do because we have/need to do, other thing we do because we can/like/want to do. It's a great feeling of accomplishment making something out of nothing/waste. One reason he is not using a plate is recycling something he already has or get it for nothing or very cheap.
I understand all this but as a fitter fabricator i know a little bit of plate steel is readily available and the casting process is more expensive. Besides i feel myfordBoy has replied to me already and i doubt he appreciates others replying for him. Just sayin !
been there done that even on 4047. brand new 2 flute, 1 flute help but still burs. I want a no bur cut and some day I'll find the write bit, speed, lube and Al to get it. thanks for all you great videos
Great job! But why didn't you utilize the keyways to parallel the peice? Whole lot less twiddling around... Just an observation, I admire your work greatly...
Irrespective of thickness, how does the material quality of cast aluminum compare to extruded aluminium? I have noticed extrusions are typically more homogenous inside. Is this due to contamination or why do home casts sometimes appear rougher (for lack of a better word)?
A sand cast part will always have a rougher surface finish than an extruded one. The strength would depend on the alloy used. the ZL12 used here is very strong.
The inside of home cast AL often has inclusions of aluminum oxide and small bubbles from hydrogen both weaken the casting. There are ways to reduce them.
myfordboy, on the links in the description, the last one, to the construction of the furnace, doesn't work (looks wrong also, with that "/edit" thing).
Cool video, really enjoying your latest stuff. Amateur hobby machinist here so learning about casting etc is very interesting. would love to give it a go some day :)
@@myfordboy no it's not. But thanks for showing us your true colors, Mr. Americans are stupid and make up their own words. The entomology of the two words is the same. Both predate American vocabulary.
You can include them in a playlist. Sometimes people copy them and claim them as their own creation. If I discover this I put in a copywrite claim to youtube, the videos get removed and the persons account is closed.
i just wanna say... i love the way you're giving those small but needed technical information....
it makes you're videos (compearing the others) a real smooth class about what and how to do...
thanks for sharing! always go on in the seme way!
I grew up watching my Dad machining parts for cnc machines. he always says casting is the sea of knowledge. the essence of all modern WORLD. hes right. thank you sir. beautifully done.
My favourite thing about your casting videos is listening to the birds in the background ...especially when it's still snowing where I live.
stoparret
I was thinking about how enjoyable the birds sounded too. Much better than any added music encountered in most videos.
I saw this and thought this would be very basic and simple. But then I wondered why you didn't just run the riser right off the top (back) of the piece, as you often do. Using the gates to hold the piece down for initial milling is a BRILLIANT idea, and not putting the riser on the bottom made the machining MUCH simpler and straightforward than it otherwise would have been. I wouldn't be surprised if it also made internal stresses inside the piece more even. I am, as always, amazed and impressed with both your casting and machining skills, which you have combined here in an astounding fashion. Awesome video, and I have enjoyed this series immensely.
Well we all forget stuff sometimes. Happens to the best of us. Love your vids. I'm always learning new things. Thanks!
It's always nice to hear the birds in the background when you're ramming the flasks.
you make it look sooooo easy... the tell tale sign of a true professional. :) thank you for all the knowledge
I don't know what these videos have that you can't stop looking at one after the other. Thanks you...
Z slide reference = utter brilliance. How elegant.
Nice to see you back to metal casting, thank you for the upload myford. Love it & will like it & share it. See ya next time
I am casting quite often but I can only show it if there is something i have not covered before or all the videos would be the same.
Fine by me!
Im happy with watching the same old castings being done, you always learn something by watching someone else doing castings. It may be the same part, but at different angles and such, you'll notice you missed something that would be very helpful but never saw it at the right angle to fully understand it.
hi there. thanks a lot, your videos (among others) enthudiasted me enough as for starting to study matrix manufacturing. I admire your work and hope to get such skills some day. Thank s from Argentina
Very nice . I think that would be very handy as a vice insert for tiny stuff. You also have a lot of very happy birds!
Ahh... so work holding it is. Very nice result and I hope you will get the improvement you expect from your engraver. Luckily nothing bad happened with the leaking flask... thanks for showing that... made me aware of some issues for planning my own cast.
I might repeat myself... but you Sir do not seize to amaze me... and secretly I still hope you will find even more engraver "upgrades" to address. Thank you so much for sharing!
I love your rammer. Which looks remarkably like a table leg.
Fascinating stuff, even though I have no experience with this. Amazing that you could machine both sides of the T-slots at once - seems to machine like hardwood.
Beautiful work. I had wrongly assumed that each side of the T-slots needed to be cut individually. I'm really looking forward to trying casting this summer. Will certainly be consulting your videos. Best wishes
That would be really tricky to pull off!
A mounting problem possibly.
if the casting is not perfectly flat, which it mist likely would not be, originally clamping it down would distort casting.
The machining would be done on a part that is distorted and once released would spring somewhat in taking the original shape.
Is this something that needs to be taken into consideration and if so how best to clamp the piece in an un-distorted position.
Also after machining do you encounter stress relief of the part that warps the part??
Again a great and entertaining video.
This is a valid point but in this case the casting was pretty flat and also too strong to distort.
Would heat treating to relieve stresses have any merit for such a small part, to help keep it flat? Great content!
I can't see heat treatment is necessary. The parts are stable as cast.
Great work! At some point this is going to be the Grandfather's Axe of engravers.
I have an idea for the future project list. A cnc machine with Art Deco style casted part's. You could design a casted spindle. Something short and heavy. For working with max 1 inch 6061. Using cheap Chinese linear rails. A bunch of them, to make it rigid. You could go totally Rube Goldberg i.e. Steam engine, pulley ect. Or just keep it simple. Either way. Your project are absolutely fantastic to watch on RUclips. Thank you for sharing them. It's material like you are presenting, that has made me get rid of the t.v. Cheer's to you myford boy.
Many years ago, I purchased your furnace build manual/book. I became too ill to make my own. At that time you weren't posting here. I am so glad you have gone back to sharing, thank you. I have a question please, why not cast iron? Am I mistaken to think iron is more durable although not as practical for the home machine shop?
Once again I've been following just not posting, glad you are back publishing.
I think you may be confusing me with Colin Peck who has a book on building a furnace. I have no book but can send what plans i made for the furnace free to anyone wanting them. I have done a small amount of iron but for the things I make aluminium is quite suitable. Iron needs a higher temperature and is harder to machine.
Great video, I always enjoy your casting videos.
Great vid! I always enjoy watching your work. I do have a question about your fixturing process though. What if you had leveled off the back first, then flipped it and placed the casting on some parallels (or a sacrificial plate)? That way you could level the top (without worrying about clamping related warping), mill the T-slots, and cut the sides straight with a largish end mill. Then add new clamps along the long sides, pull your short side clamps and mill those too so that everything stays trued to the bed throughout the entire operation as opposed to having to re-mount onto angle plates?
There are always several ways of machining a part.
The back of the casting was flat and was strong enough not to twist under clamping. If thee back was uneven i would have done as you suggest. I chose to use the angle plate as my face cutter gives a better finish than using the side of an end mill.
I'm sure your original indexer could prevent rotation of the work whatever stresses your milling machine might dish out. In your new setup, rotation is prevented by that toothed belt. Is that sufficient?
When the indexer is used the motor is locked with the power from the controller but I still use the screw lock on top of the indexer for extra security.
Reminds me of grandfather's axe somehow :D Great job as always!
I have watched a lot of casting videos and invariably the guys are doing the work on the floor on hands and knees. Seems like it would be so much easier standing in front of a bench.
For me it's best on the floor. I have 125 Kg of sand. If it were on a bench I would have to lift all that onto it after it has been conditioned. If the mould were made on the bench it then has to be lifted onto the floor for pouring. A large mould full of sand is very heavy. You may have seen me using a hoist to lift a mould after pouring it's just too heavy to lift from a bench.
I have knee pads in my trousers and am pretty used to kneeling after a lifetime as an electrician.
I can see your point, but I see you lifting the drag and cope while kneeling, which is a potential back killer- doing each on a bench then assembling them on a floor puts the lifting at your knees, not your back. But thanks for the fun videos, I always look forward to watching your projects.
I was thinking "how is he going to get the sand out of the T slots"? AH, just cut a mortise not actually a T.
You should give lost foam casting a try. This would have been perfect for it. You could get a piece of 1/2 (or 5/8") inch foam, cut your T slots, pack it full of sand then when it came time for the milling, you'd just have to do a little clean up with the cutter instead of hogging out all that material.
I use owens corning pink and it has black printing on it. The detail is so great that the very very very slight indent from the thickness of the ink comes through in the casting.
I have to use lost foam because I don't have access to reasonably priced "real" greensand. I just have to use my home made crap from kitty litter clay and beach sand. Although I've heard a good source for fine(r) sand is aquarium supply.
Will you be doing any more videos on the Kerr-Stewart 16mm Wren locomotive you were making?
Yes, I have just been diverted with this project but will be getting back to it when this is finished.
Where can I find this tool to mill the part?
Well done, Superb work as always - A big thumbs up at 1,240 ;-)
Keep up the great work David - I love watching all your videos!
It seems like a slightly better designed wood pattern could have saved a lot of milling time, energy and tool wear. What am I missing?
I'm just starting to get into casting, I really do enjoy watching your videos. I'm glad you show the mistakes since that's a huge part of it. Lots of people are to proud to do that. Can you tell me about mixture of metal you used? I saw it was aluminum and ZL12 but what Percentage? 50/50?
I use aluminium for most parts, alloy car wheels. for good results don't use anything that has not been cast before .
For flywheels where I want something heavy I use the ZL12. I buy it as ingots. It's 12% Al and 88% zinc. Machines like a dream.
why all up cut?
Beautiful work as always, Sir. Thanks for sharing.
What did you use to level work piece surface?
There is no need to level the bed, like you might do on a 3D printer. The accuracy is built into the machine.
For someone with a mill, why not machine the part from plate stock?
I did not have any suitable plate but I can make my own.
Who else wants to see what the spill one looked like?
I would like to
thats gonna be a nice upgrade thanks for sharing
Can you tell me why you cast a regular piece like this ? Wouldnt it have been easier to just make this from a bit of flat plate steel ?
When you can cast things it easy to make any shape you want. I did not have any suitable steel available and I like casting.
myfordboy and because it feels great to do it! Seeing a form appearing out of the sand is very satisfyingly. Making an item from what is basically molten waste or scrap metal is the ultimate in recycling and what's to not like about that? Oh and we all get the pleasure of watching and learning,it's a win all round!
ScotsFurian some things we do because we have/need to do, other thing we do because we can/like/want to do. It's a great feeling of accomplishment making something out of nothing/waste. One reason he is not using a plate is recycling something he already has or get it for nothing or very cheap.
I understand all this but as a fitter fabricator i know a little bit of plate steel is readily available and the casting process is more expensive. Besides i feel myfordBoy has replied to me already and i doubt he appreciates others replying for him. Just sayin !
ScotsFurian fair enough,enough said.
beautiful thing. How can one mill aluminum with out burs?
Sharp tools and cutting fluid. WD40 work good.
been there done that even on 4047. brand new 2 flute, 1 flute help but still burs. I want a no bur cut and some day I'll find the write bit, speed, lube and Al to get it. thanks for all you great videos
Great job! But why didn't you utilize the keyways to parallel the peice? Whole lot less twiddling around... Just an observation, I admire your work greatly...
I did actually. The tee slot was aligned with the top of the angle plate.
Irrespective of thickness, how does the material quality of cast aluminum compare to extruded aluminium? I have noticed extrusions are typically more homogenous inside. Is this due to contamination or why do home casts sometimes appear rougher (for lack of a better word)?
A sand cast part will always have a rougher surface finish than an extruded one. The strength would depend on the alloy used. the ZL12 used here is very strong.
The inside of home cast AL often has inclusions of aluminum oxide and small bubbles from hydrogen both weaken the casting. There are ways to reduce them.
myfordboy, on the links in the description, the last one, to the construction of the furnace, doesn't work (looks wrong also, with that "/edit" thing).
Thanks for mentioning it. I have corrected it.
Why did you put the pattern in off-square?
More room for risers?
@@petergoodall6258 yes.
Hello. Do you must leave the mold of sand dries moisture or directly use I hope you reply. Thank you
After the mould is made up the metal can be poured immediately. the moisture content is low.
Fantastic video! So, when does it stop being banggood cnc machine? ;)
Cool video, really enjoying your latest stuff. Amateur hobby machinist here so learning about casting etc is very interesting. would love to give it a go some day :)
excellent stuff...thanks for the video.......might have to try to make one !
Was wondering is the sand reusable?
jj1479
The sand can usually be reused.
After a lot of heavy use, also add some used motor oil (and mix WELL in, ideally with the special mixer called a muller) to retain its tackiness
MattOGormanSmith No. This is water bonded sand. If it ever looses greenstrength bentonite clay is used to restore it or add some more new sand.
Gotcha. I got most of my ideas from Lionel Oliver at backyardmetalcasting.com . Now I just need a back yard
+MattOGormanSmith
"Now I just need a back yard", that makes two of us
tried doing in in the balcony but a bit too messy
This is really cool. Nice work
spot on man , Good build ! Thumbs up ..
Another wonderful myfordboy casting and machining video. Gotta love 'em.
Viewer 76, I dont know how I ended up being the first to comment?
What equipment do I need if I want to make a large alloy casting. What's the biggest melting pot you can pour?
Largest crucible I have is an A10
Can you send me a link to show me what this is?
www.morganmms.cn/download.php?4335342b48396f337946333564716c3663523361743179793241594176376b414473576966335565765a52506263673d
I'm looking at a project that may require a lot of alloy. 32 liter pots may not be big enough.
Dave Jones How do you plan to melt that amount of metal and handle the weight of sand that would be needed for a casting that big?
Is that a Raglan mill MyfordBoy?
Yes it is.
How did you come to making your smelter? Was there a pattern you made up or found.? Really nice any I can find the same drawings? Ty
The furnace ( not smelter!) is my own design. I have some basic plans you can have.I need an email.
ciao, che tipo di sabbia è e dove si acquista? grazie!!!!!!!
www.artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=38 see also myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/greensand.html
goshdarnit, you should start an etsy and sell those. Been looking for ages for an affordable one over here.
Very good!!
That's as slick as snot XD Nice job
Rebates? Did you mean rabbets?
Not if you live in the UK. Rabbets is an American deviation of the word.
@@myfordboy no it's not. But thanks for showing us your true colors, Mr. Americans are stupid and make up their own words. The entomology of the two words is the same. Both predate American vocabulary.
@@myfordboy no it isn't. But thanks for showing your anti-american sentiment. It is as old as rebates. Look it up.
At the rate you are replacing parts I feel like your gonna have just made your own miller by scratch, which jokes aside would be pretty cool.
What is the name your old milling machine ?
Raglan ruclips.net/video/jnSlJeYgY2w/видео.html
thanks :)
Can you do RC engine
It's wonderful video
Thank you for that really appreciate
Holy crap why dose your table sound like rocks in a tumble dryer?!
great vid though, did you buy the alloy or did you recycle it from another source
The alloy is bought as an ingot.
as always!!! good job!
That is damned cool. Great job!
You are going to end up rebuilding the whole CNC machine
Promise ??
Super !!!!!!!!!!
Georges
Excellent
love the pro tip
nice video
¿Grandioso!
Из чего тигель
Eu num entendi, seria melhor um torno mecânico fazer isso. Gastaria menos dinheiro e menos tempo. Coisa estranha.
What is this dross ???????
What if we don't remove dross ???????
Dross is the rubbish that floats to the top, paint or dirt that was on the scrap metal. if you not removed it could get in the casting.
Thank you 👍
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
mohamed elotmani esmeril
Can i share your videos on my channel please
You can include them in a playlist.
Sometimes people copy them and claim them as their own creation. If I discover this I put in a copywrite claim to youtube, the videos get removed and the persons account is closed.
Wow you're going to have to stop calling it 'Banggood' and put your name on it. lol
My machine is a bangboy.
Very good! 👍