This video is great! Thanks for showing the example of what it looks like if you don't use the sizing. It bleeds through really bad. I used the sizing and it made a huge difference in not bleeding through and waterproofing.
Been watching your video for insight, thanks, just completed a test and found that if I use "Spar Urethane" to seal the Duck Canvas before I use the latex paint, it works. Spar Urethane is clear & UV resistant, usually use in on wood projects on my sailboat to waterproof, canvas darkened slightly when applied and canvas is still flexible.
Thanks 1st Sgt. I'm interested in this topic and have painted a few items with simply wall paper sizing and black semi gloss paint and was happy with the result.
Got some canvas items hotwashed and dyed, got 2-3 more to fixative today, then a bigass bucket to mineral spirits/silicone treat tarps in; gunna be an arduous time im sure. Latex paint, no wall size, 1 coat=light-moderate bleeding; if one coat is allowed to dry, i wonder how much bleeding to expect for the next? Will report back, having latex paint mixed to a decent olive color maybe today then coating the ground cloth with it; likely before any silicon treatment adventures. Definitely will report back. Not a civil war reenactor, but a will do for a ranger.
For rubberized cloth, would something like the brush-on flex-seal or other liquid rubber work? I've played around with it painting poke sacks and results are rather suprising. Keeps the fabric flexible and provides waterproofing. Haven't seen it used with reenactors but have seen it used on the bushcraft forums with good results.
Very helpful. I have found the same thing using the traditional recipe. I used boiled linseed oil , pure turpentine and iron oxide for a colorant. I mixed 50/50 for the turps and linseed oi and the colorant to taste as it were. I looked at opacity to judge. When I moved the item, the black came off as described. So I guess I will leave it a while tot totally dry, then brush it off. I was thinking of using a sealer to prevent bleed off. The item I am making is a cavalry valise.
Shhhh. Wall paper sizing on both sides, when dry mix 2:1 black semi gloss latex paint to BLO. It does take a while to dry. Looks great and has fooled several hardcore types.
That is an excellent question I wish I had a definitive answer for. Stumpy Nubs woodworking on RUclips did a good video on a similar topic about non-paint oil finishes that might be helpful.
Capt. Whitehall here. Funny you ask about unsticking your tarred cloth since I just did this with a member today. Take some baby powder and lightly dust the tarred cloth. Once done, rub it in by hand and then take a damp cloth and wipe off the excess then dry off. Works like a charm everytime!
This video is great! Thanks for showing the example of what it looks like if you don't use the sizing. It bleeds through really bad. I used the sizing and it made a huge difference in not bleeding through and waterproofing.
Been watching your video for insight, thanks, just completed a test and found that if I use "Spar Urethane" to seal the Duck Canvas before I use the latex paint, it works. Spar Urethane is clear & UV resistant, usually use in on wood projects on my sailboat to waterproof, canvas darkened slightly when applied and canvas is still flexible.
Thanks 1st Sgt. I'm interested in this topic and have painted a few items with simply wall paper sizing and black semi gloss paint and was happy with the result.
Got some canvas items hotwashed and dyed, got 2-3 more to fixative today, then a bigass bucket to mineral spirits/silicone treat tarps in; gunna be an arduous time im sure. Latex paint, no wall size, 1 coat=light-moderate bleeding; if one coat is allowed to dry, i wonder how much bleeding to expect for the next? Will report back, having latex paint mixed to a decent olive color maybe today then coating the ground cloth with it; likely before any silicon treatment adventures. Definitely will report back. Not a civil war reenactor, but a will do for a ranger.
For rubberized cloth, would something like the brush-on flex-seal or other liquid rubber work? I've played around with it painting poke sacks and results are rather suprising. Keeps the fabric flexible and provides waterproofing. Haven't seen it used with reenactors but have seen it used on the bushcraft forums with good results.
Very helpful. I have found the same thing using the traditional recipe. I used boiled linseed oil , pure turpentine and iron oxide for a colorant. I mixed 50/50 for the turps and linseed oi and the colorant to taste as it were. I looked at opacity to judge. When I moved the item, the black came off as described. So I guess I will leave it a while tot totally dry, then brush it off. I was thinking of using a sealer to prevent bleed off. The item I am making is a cavalry valise.
That sounds like an awesome project.
Good stuff guys, I'll be making a slew of civilian cloths of greens and reds. Just working on the pigments.
Did a lot of experimentation with oil cloth last summer. Once it starts warming up I'm going round 2.
In 500 years historians will call the last half of the 20th century "the big blue tarp" period.
Just ordered the Second Vol of Roundball to Rimfire, should have it in a few days. Eventually will get all four volumes.
How does it hold up in a humid environment? Will it prevent mold and mildew?
highly informative. Tweeted to my 24k
Shhhh. Wall paper sizing on both sides, when dry mix 2:1 black semi gloss latex paint to BLO. It does take a while to dry. Looks great and has fooled several hardcore types.
Thanks for sharing! I'm definitely going to try that one out and add it to the board. Oh, and don't worry, your secret is safe with us :)
Rolling on the sizing? Or brushing?
@@PilotSpOB either or
@@thorzhammer70ky17 thanks!
Charles Goodyear called his process of coating fabrics with rubber "plating" or "enameling".
I know this is a year old. But I guess I missed it. What kind of cloth are you using.
Do you roll on the sizing or brush it? Does it matter?
I've done both, I haven't noticed a difference. The stuff I do is usually pretty small, so a brush is just more practical for me.
Hey man great video. I need to know more about the Ron Swanson Poster!
It's in the Parks and Rec episode where Ron and Andy are coaching basketball. You can learn more about it directly from Ron Swanson himself.
At 1st glance I thought that was a Stalin poster... LOL
Will an oil based paint be as safe as the latex you used for a ration bag or will that be just as hazardous as using the original recipe?
That is an excellent question I wish I had a definitive answer for. Stumpy Nubs woodworking on RUclips did a good video on a similar topic about non-paint oil finishes that might be helpful.
what if i put oil paint instead of latex?
Just got through hauling 40,000 lbs of lamp black out of Louisiana.
Wow!
If you painted canvas with the rustoleum paint would it make a fairly waterproof ground sheet and how long did it take to dry? Thanks!!
Theirs liquid rubber out their
1st Sargent ... I have a repro Hathaway Portable Writing Desk where the painted cloth has become tacky/sticky. What would you suggest to fix this?
Capt. Whitehall here. Funny you ask about unsticking your tarred cloth since I just did this with a member today. Take some baby powder and lightly dust the tarred cloth. Once done, rub it in by hand and then take a damp cloth and wipe off the excess then dry off. Works like a charm everytime!
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS Thanks ... I will give this a try.
Update ... this worked. I will have to apply a second time as I missed a few spots. Thanks for the help.
What state do you all really like recruit from?
We are out of Washington state but have members from Idaho, Montana, Oregon and for a good while had a guy from Canada.
Company D 2nd USSS No one more North? Im from New Hampshire.
@@kimsungii5121 not for us sadly. Being West coast we dont get many East coasters out here enough. There is a Company D based out of Maine however.
Company D 2nd USSS Oh really? Where about?
I would try to make it but I think I would make my self sick ! ! ! !