This video is a walk through of how to take apart and reassemble the Specialized Future Shock system. #specializedbicycles #futureshock #specializedfutureshock
Great video! One thing - at 16:25 as you're tightening the locking screws, you can see the set screws also turning. It's good to hold the set screws with a thin 3mm wrench as you tighten the locking screws. Specialized sells a cheap, thin 3mm wrench for this very job.
Another quick pointer for anyone like me doing this at home who has the 2.0 Future Shock, that part is usually going to have some carbon paste on it, which increases the friction between it and the fork tube. I mention this because it won't easily slide out like in this video. Solution is to just get a pair of pliers, wrap in some painters tape, and just wiggle lightly back and forth until the shock comes loose. Then just follow all the rest of the directions in this great informative video.
Thank you so much for this very clear overview. Saved me headache and a trip to the dealer with my 2019 Roubaix. I figured out to remove the dust cover. Fortunately I found “T73” stamped on my collar not a single digit.
What a great walkthrough of how the future shock works, will defiantly be saving this video for future reference as there isn't any information from specialized on how to do any of this (unless your a dealer/servicer for them I presume)
Gained confidence adjusting the headset and do not rely on any service bike shops. Nowadays just for simple stuff you wait days or weeks to get something done. Big thanks!
Just what I needed to know. I saw another video which was using the lower stack cover for the headset with no mention of the higher stack cover like the one I have on my 2022 Roubaix. Great informative video! Now I have to practice breaking my bike down so I can travel with it in the future and this was the step I was missing to get the fork off the bike. Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks a million!!! Bought. Diverge w FS 2.0 without knowing that I could play around with the stack height. Your video made it super easy to play around with and still feel safe to ride after. Cheers
that was immensely helpful really for getting to know my beloved bike better. Was able to to do some basic maintenance after a crash with that information after the official manual only left my bewildered.
I understand why you shouldn't tighten the pinch bolt without the shock in place. The collar would close and likely crack the carbon steer tube without the shock there to press against. What I don't understand is why the shock needs to be in place to do the preload screws. Great video, the help is appreciated.
If you preload the screws without the collar tightened down the collar will lift up unevenly in the back where the pinch bolt is due to the set screw in the front.
@@ChrisEnockson Well that makes sense. My future shock wasn't originally installed with the flat facing forward. When I change the stem (which I need to do to shorten it), I plan to loosen the pinch bolt but not touch the preload. I will twist the future shock to face right but not remove it. That should keep the collar from lifting. Think that ok? Better to leave the collar alone and leave the shock as is? Or best to just remove and redo the pre-load screws?
Useful. Informative!! The aesthetic cover is pretty unaesthetic, vulnerable. Depressed area on the frame attracts dirt sinks it. Pain to increase / customize stack. Same with all bikes with such proprietary built in features and closed ecosystem for interop. How can you replace the rubber hose should it get damaged/worn out?
Excellent video! The ONLY little thing I saw you missed is at 16:20 mark. Looks like you need to use a small wrench to hold the adjustment setscrew in place while tightening down on the top locking setscrew. Without doing so, you can actually see in the video how the lower adjustment setscrew moved while being locked down.
Also.... question: Do you know if the bike is suppose to come with: (1) the set of 3 springs? (2) those 3 extra spacers? (3) both a thin and a thick stem sleeves? My friend's LBS did not provide any of those to her brand new bike.
You mentioned having a decent set of Allen wrenches with long reach. Which is a very good point. However, the problem I found is when I come to torque down the preload lock nuts and the clamp pinch bolt. My torque wrench hex bits don’t have the reach. It’s a real bummer.
Great video. Clear explanations. If I understand correctly, to just add stack spacers one would just have to work on the pinch bolt on the collar and no need to remove the collar?
-Which carbon paste do you use for futureshock/fork interface? -Do to put grease on the spring inside? -Do you grise thread on the cardridge cap ( one which hols the spring)? -Do you put new loctate on the clamp bolts each time you disassemble it? Do you tighten screws on the side first or bolt at the back?
Very helpful video. Did you mention the orientation of the future shock when you slide it into the steerer tube? There are 3 flatttened faces to the upper half of the FS. Does it matter in which direction these face?
Hey Chris I really appreciate you sharing this detailed breakdown. I have the 2020 Roubaix Sport high stack and I really have recognized the value of this technology on reducing the jarring on my hands, shoulders, and neck. I have noticed a rattling and what I would describe as less absorption of the bumps in the last several months. I am just shy of 500 hours and around 8300 miles and almost 1 year old. From my research it seems that it is recommended by Specialized to do a maintenance after 500 hours. Can you comment what your knowledge and experience is regarding this and if you were me, what should I do. What should I ask the bike shop to do as there doesn't seem much that could be fixed. Should the future shock be replaced at this time? I really appreciate your insights, thanks in advance for the response. I hope my shop has your level of knowledge.
I'm not aware of servicing needed on any internal parts. Checking the collar torque and the headset tension is important occasionally but I'm unsure what Specialized is referring to for maintenance.
@@ChrisEnockson Just wanted to provide you with an update regarding the servicing of my future shock. If you remember, I had seen on several forums that Specialized recommended servicing the future shock after 500 hours. My shop did confirm that they have rebuilt the future shock on several occasions and so this was in alignment with what I had seen. Also according to my shop, Specialized was now allowing the replacement of in leu of rebuilding for the same cost as servicing it. Given my concerns I had voiced about the rattling I would hear while riding, my shop had ordered one to have in stock. Sure enough the unit had a ruptured or torn boot or sleeve, whatever it is called. They claimed that must have shortened its life due to moisture or dust intrusion. Not sure what caused it to tear. Given that my bike was just approaching one year old, this repair was covered by the warranty. I hope this is not a recurring issue as I really like the benefits of the shock dampening for the hands and upper body.
@@ChrisEnockson Update part 2, I still have the bad vibration or resonance coming from the top and I believe it is associated with the movement of the future shock. I have written Specialized directly for my shop indicated that they performed a test ride after replacing the future shock unit and they couldn't hear any vibration or rattling. Not sure taking the time to bring it back will change anything. I am really certain that this did not occur initially, only starting occurring this winter. One thing to note is that when I remove that cosmetic cover that you demonstrated, I have a metal washer underneath that cap on my bike. I removed it and replaced the cap but I still have the rattling. On a hard ride yesterday, when the tarmac has bad spots like crack or roughness, other people could hear it. When the tarmac is quite smooth, no noise. And so that is why I believe that the noise occurring is due to the future shock and not due to the head set or fork. while test riding, i can grab the various cables and lines to reduce movement but I can still hear the noise. I don't know what to do other than wait for Specialized to reply. Do you think it is possible that the spring is vibrating or creating resonance inside the shock and that is what I hear? I am tempted to place a piece of gasket on the top and bottom to see if that quietens it down. I would appreciate any thoughts you might have. Thanks
I’m actually getting rid of mine due to this future shock and lock and collar system Not so much the future shock but the lock and collar system on it is terrible I’ve had mine one month and twice it’s already been on the bike shop due to it it is going back to tredz this week..
Ps. Some questions: -Which carbon paste do you use for futureshock/fork interface? -Do to put grease on the spring inside? -Do you grise thread on the cardridge cap ( one which hols the spring)? -Do you put new loctate on the clamp bolts each time you disassemble it? Do you tighten screws on the side first or bolt at the back?
Great video, thanks! What is the maintenance / service recommendation for the Future Shock? Is there any way to services Future Shock itself, and if yes, how and how often? Thank you in advance.
Hello Chris. Thank you very much for making and posting this informative video. I'm no longer afraid of the future shock suspension system on my bike. I did have one question about the rubber "boot" that sits on the middle of the suspension. Does the boot just slide off the future shock?
Hi, great video. I have a 2018 Roubaix with the loose low-stack cover that you show in the video. I have just re-assembled the set up as described but I the stack cover thing is loose and causing a really annoying rattle. Any suggestions on how to correct this please? Thanks... Rob
Its hard to say. I would need to see the bike to figure out why its loose. I would this loosening the collar, and pushing down on the steerer would tighten it up but cant say for sure.
I can’t get the cap back on. The screw thread on the screw doesn’t appear to reach the corresponding thread in the hole. Any idea what I may be doing wrong?
Why would it come with no spring in it? Do shops add a spring when prepping the bike? Also when tightening the cap after putting a spring in what do you hold the shaft with? Thanks for this great video. I could really use a shop manual.
The future shock is capable and designed to be ridden with or without a spring. The springs are there to tighten it up meaning the loosest setting is no spring. Shops vary in what they do for set up but I think most leave it as is when the bike is built. Having the loosest setting is good to test ride if a person has never tried the future shock before so that the motion is most noticeable. After an initial test ride the future shock can and should be tailored to each individual riders preferences. I hope this helps I'm a little unclear on your second question so if you could please verify I will answer as best as I can.
@@ChrisEnockson Excellent, thank you. The second question after thinking about it doesn't matter. I figured the shock shaft might spin when you tighten down the cap. But, you just held it with your hand. Thanks again :)
Very interesting video, thanks a lot! I got my Comp E5 delivered yesterday and took it to a 25 mile test ride this morning. On very rough terrain, roots and stones I felt that there was "contact" within the head tube / future shock. Tonight I saw your video and opened the future shock system on my bike to see that there was no spring installed. Is there any chance that the bike / head tube / future shock can be damaged riding without a spring installed? I cannot find any information from Specialized on this exact question/topic. Thx!
The future shock is designed to be used with any of the three springs or no spring. The springs just add additional tension to the shock and they typically come with no spring installed.
Great video. So with NO 'helper' spring added, the shock is as 'soft' as it can be? The 'helper' springs only make the 'default' (not accessible) spring stiffer/harder. Is that correct?
@@ChrisEnockson Would you know if the Diverge Comp E5 was supposed to come with the 3 future shock helper springs? I received no extra springs with my bike.
@@michenzi I actually just called my bike shop yesterday about this. The comp e5 does ship with all 3 springs in the spare parts box, some shops just keep it and will install it for you if you ask them. I am bringing mine in for them to install the helper spring
Thanks for this. I do have a question about the fork on this bike. What is the steerer diameter? Bottom and top? Curious how this differed from a traditional tapered steerer. Thanks.
The design of the steerer tube concerns me greatly!!!!!! The fork requires 2 slots and a hole to be cut into the top of the steerer tube??? That doesn't seem like a good long term design. They are going to take one of the most critical junctions and compress 2 ends around a shock that is moving, while holding it in place with a screw through a hole in the steerer tube?!?!
Great video! Got myself a Diverge Expert 2022 recently and found out there's neither a spring nor a downtube protector with it. Are those two standard or only an option ? thx
The rubber boot above the collar severely ripped on my 2020 Roubaix, after only 500 miles. I'm going to swap the blue spring for the black to minimize topping out. How do I take off the boot and stick on a new one? I tried jamming my thumbnails under the bottom of the boot to slide it off but it wont even budge. TIA.
Can I retro fit futureshock onto my Sirrus 4.0 carbon or an alternative product for shock resistance, for some reason they have not included this on the 2021 4.0 carbon :/ Great video and thank you!
I’ve replaced the rubber seal on mine, putting it back together now there is a gap between the plastic cover and the frame and it’s driving me crazy, I can’t figure out why. Anyone know?
Hi Chris! Great thanks for the video! Just to clarify, to put the spacers on, it is enough to loosen just the bolt head on drive side, right? No need to bother with these 2 ones on the side to tension the headset.. did I got it right?
I got a bit confused as in 13th minute you claim that I can not tension the steerer tube collar without the future shock inside.. but I got it right, to take out / put back the future shock it is enough to loosen just the bolt head on drive side without loosen the side pins.. pls confirm
And one more thing ;-) The flat surface of the cartridge needs to be aligned to the front, while the stem shim to the back of the bike, right? Thanks a loooot
Not necessarily. Loosening that bolt will allow the future shock to slide out and add or subtract spacers. The only problem is the future shock allows the collar to be tightened in place and your headset will likely be loose if you dont readjust the set screws after reinstalling the future shock. Hope this helps.
NOT GOOD, you overtightened the headset, look at the instructions please. As you showed, you nip up headset using the smaller inside grubscrews. But, when you tighten down the locking nut you are supposed to hold the actual headset tightening bolt or inside grubscrew with a small spanner on the flats at the bottom of the screw. You can actually see when you tightened up the bigger locking nut it spun the smaller grub screws therefore overtightening the headset. Please remove this vidoe or edit it.
What are the "helper" spring for? How does it actually works? Anyone tried the different spring and feel any performance difference?? Thanks in advance.
Great video! One thing - at 16:25 as you're tightening the locking screws, you can see the set screws also turning. It's good to hold the set screws with a thin 3mm wrench as you tighten the locking screws. Specialized sells a cheap, thin 3mm wrench for this very job.
Another quick pointer for anyone like me doing this at home who has the 2.0 Future Shock, that part is usually going to have some carbon paste on it, which increases the friction between it and the fork tube. I mention this because it won't easily slide out like in this video. Solution is to just get a pair of pliers, wrap in some painters tape, and just wiggle lightly back and forth until the shock comes loose. Then just follow all the rest of the directions in this great informative video.
What a great video mate. Clear, comprehensive and very, very useful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent - the spacer demo was exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful!
This collar is waaaaaayyy over engineered by Specialized. Thanks a lot for this video. Helped me a lot with my Creo turbo carbon comp.
Thx. I was able to replace headset bearings and add some spacers under the stem thanks to your video.
You're welcome thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this very clear overview. Saved me headache and a trip to the dealer with my 2019 Roubaix. I figured out to remove the dust cover. Fortunately I found “T73” stamped on my collar not a single digit.
What a great walkthrough of how the future shock works, will defiantly be saving this video for future reference as there isn't any information from specialized on how to do any of this (unless your a dealer/servicer for them I presume)
Thanks for the kind words!
Thank you so much Chris, I have been riding my bike since new with no spring! It’s much more comfortable to ride now!,
Gained confidence adjusting the headset and do not rely on any service bike shops. Nowadays just for simple stuff you wait days or weeks to get something done. Big thanks!
Just what I needed to know. I saw another video which was using the lower stack cover for the headset with no mention of the higher stack cover like the one I have on my 2022 Roubaix. Great informative video! Now I have to practice breaking my bike down so I can travel with it in the future and this was the step I was missing to get the fork off the bike. Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks a million!!! Bought. Diverge w FS 2.0 without knowing that I could play around with the stack height. Your video made it super easy to play around with and still feel safe to ride after. Cheers
great video!!!! well documented and communicated......
Thank you
Great video, thank you.
Thanks for the detailed tutorial, I need to replace the rubber sleve of my Sirrus 5.0 that is all craked after almost 4,000 kms.
Thanks for your knowledge🙏
Thank you! A mechanic overtightened mine. This was a big help. That small 2mm inside the 3mm is confusing.
that was immensely helpful really for getting to know my beloved bike better. Was able to to do some basic maintenance after a crash with that information after the official manual only left my bewildered.
I understand why you shouldn't tighten the pinch bolt without the shock in place. The collar would close and likely crack the carbon steer tube without the shock there to press against. What I don't understand is why the shock needs to be in place to do the preload screws.
Great video, the help is appreciated.
If you preload the screws without the collar tightened down the collar will lift up unevenly in the back where the pinch bolt is due to the set screw in the front.
@@ChrisEnockson Well that makes sense.
My future shock wasn't originally installed with the flat facing forward. When I change the stem (which I need to do to shorten it), I plan to loosen the pinch bolt but not touch the preload. I will twist the future shock to face right but not remove it. That should keep the collar from lifting. Think that ok? Better to leave the collar alone and leave the shock as is? Or best to just remove and redo the pre-load screws?
awesome. just got a 1.5 in a creo and needed to learn how it works. thanks.
Thank you for the video, you really explained everything.
Very useful information. Thank you.
Great instructions. Many thanks.
Great, fine, excellent video !!!!! 👌👍
Useful. Informative!!
The aesthetic cover is pretty unaesthetic, vulnerable. Depressed area on the frame attracts dirt sinks it. Pain to increase / customize stack. Same with all bikes with such proprietary built in features and closed ecosystem for interop.
How can you replace the rubber hose should it get damaged/worn out?
Once you have dissected it, you can pull the rubber cover off pretty easily.
what a guide! Thanks Chris!
Very well described!!
Thank you this was very helpful for me.
Nice one and very informative video. thank you soo much brother. God bless
Thank you for your support!
Excellent video! The ONLY little thing I saw you missed is at 16:20 mark. Looks like you need to use a small wrench to hold the adjustment setscrew in place while tightening down on the top locking setscrew. Without doing so, you can actually see in the video how the lower adjustment setscrew moved while being locked down.
Also.... question: Do you know if the bike is suppose to come with: (1) the set of 3 springs? (2) those 3 extra spacers? (3) both a thin and a thick stem sleeves? My friend's LBS did not provide any of those to her brand new bike.
Yes it should come with all of that.
Goof point they will move s bit but there really in no way to use both wrenches at the same time.
@@ChrisEnockson oh, i was thinking maybe a tiny open wrench to grab the adjustment screw from externally...
I highly doubt you will be able to find a wrench for down there. Would need to be the size of a tweezers.
Here's the link to the manual containing the torque specs: media.specialized.com/support/collateral/0000134022.pdf
You mentioned having a decent set of Allen wrenches with long reach. Which is a very good point.
However, the problem I found is when I come to torque down the preload lock nuts and the clamp pinch bolt. My torque wrench hex bits don’t have the reach.
It’s a real bummer.
Great demo! thanks
Thankyou
Thank you!
Great video. Clear explanations. If I understand correctly, to just add stack spacers one would just have to work on the pinch bolt on the collar and no need to remove the collar?
good point - would like to know that as well.
Yes that is correct
@@ChrisEnockson thanks.
Thanks, was wondering where the spacers go
-Which carbon paste do you use for futureshock/fork interface?
-Do to put grease on the spring inside?
-Do you grise thread on the cardridge cap ( one which hols the spring)?
-Do you put new loctate on the clamp bolts each time you disassemble it?
Do you tighten screws on the side first or bolt at the back?
Very helpful video. Did you mention the orientation of the future shock when you slide it into the steerer tube? There are 3 flatttened faces to the upper half of the FS. Does it matter in which direction these face?
I think I forgot to mention it. One flat face should be at the back where the stem pinch bolts are.
Don’t forget to grease the spring before you install it in the futureshock
Very helpful video, thank you. Is this a Future Shock 1 or 1.5 or 2?
Hey Chris I really appreciate you sharing this detailed breakdown. I have the 2020 Roubaix Sport high stack and I really have recognized the value of this technology on reducing the jarring on my hands, shoulders, and neck. I have noticed a rattling and what I would describe as less absorption of the bumps in the last several months. I am just shy of 500 hours and around 8300 miles and almost 1 year old. From my research it seems that it is recommended by Specialized to do a maintenance after 500 hours. Can you comment what your knowledge and experience is regarding this and if you were me, what should I do. What should I ask the bike shop to do as there doesn't seem much that could be fixed. Should the future shock be replaced at this time? I really appreciate your insights, thanks in advance for the response. I hope my shop has your level of knowledge.
I'm not aware of servicing needed on any internal parts. Checking the collar torque and the headset tension is important occasionally but I'm unsure what Specialized is referring to for maintenance.
@@ChrisEnockson thanks so much, and so you are not aware of replacing the future shock in any case?
@@ChrisEnockson Just wanted to provide you with an update regarding the servicing of my future shock. If you remember, I had seen on several forums that Specialized recommended servicing the future shock after 500 hours. My shop did confirm that they have rebuilt the future shock on several occasions and so this was in alignment with what I had seen. Also according to my shop, Specialized was now allowing the replacement of in leu of rebuilding for the same cost as servicing it. Given my concerns I had voiced about the rattling I would hear while riding, my shop had ordered one to have in stock. Sure enough the unit had a ruptured or torn boot or sleeve, whatever it is called. They claimed that must have shortened its life due to moisture or dust intrusion. Not sure what caused it to tear. Given that my bike was just approaching one year old, this repair was covered by the warranty. I hope this is not a recurring issue as I really like the benefits of the shock dampening for the hands and upper body.
@@ChrisEnockson Update part 2, I still have the bad vibration or resonance coming from the top and I believe it is associated with the movement of the future shock. I have written Specialized directly for my shop indicated that they performed a test ride after replacing the future shock unit and they couldn't hear any vibration or rattling. Not sure taking the time to bring it back will change anything. I am really certain that this did not occur initially, only starting occurring this winter. One thing to note is that when I remove that cosmetic cover that you demonstrated, I have a metal washer underneath that cap on my bike. I removed it and replaced the cap but I still have the rattling. On a hard ride yesterday, when the tarmac has bad spots like crack or roughness, other people could hear it. When the tarmac is quite smooth, no noise. And so that is why I believe that the noise occurring is due to the future shock and not due to the head set or fork. while test riding, i can grab the various cables and lines to reduce movement but I can still hear the noise. I don't know what to do other than wait for Specialized to reply.
Do you think it is possible that the spring is vibrating or creating resonance inside the shock and that is what I hear? I am tempted to place a piece of gasket on the top and bottom to see if that quietens it down. I would appreciate any thoughts you might have. Thanks
I’m actually getting rid of mine due to this future shock and lock and collar system Not so much the future shock but the lock and collar system on it is terrible I’ve had mine one month and twice it’s already been on the bike shop due to it it is going back to tredz this week..
Ps. Some questions:
-Which carbon paste do you use for futureshock/fork interface?
-Do to put grease on the spring inside?
-Do you grise thread on the cardridge cap ( one which hols the spring)?
-Do you put new loctate on the clamp bolts each time you disassemble it?
Do you tighten screws on the side first or bolt at the back?
I put a RedShift Stem on my gravel bike works great , Im not sure future shock is a great solution over the long haul.
What other innovations in bike tech are you ‘not sure’ about?
Great video, thanks!
What is the maintenance / service recommendation for the Future Shock? Is there any way to services Future Shock itself, and if yes, how and how often?
Thank you in advance.
Future shock does not require any service.
@@ChrisEnockson What is the expected service life of the unserviceable unit? I believe a replacement unit is relatively inexpensive.
Hello Chris. Thank you very much for making and posting this informative video. I'm no longer afraid of the future shock suspension system on my bike. I did have one question about the rubber "boot" that sits on the middle of the suspension. Does the boot just slide off the future shock?
Yes it comes off but it has to be disassembled fully and fits tightly.
Hi, great video. I have a 2018 Roubaix with the loose low-stack cover that you show in the video. I have just re-assembled the set up as described but I the stack cover thing is loose and causing a really annoying rattle. Any suggestions on how to correct this please? Thanks... Rob
Its hard to say. I would need to see the bike to figure out why its loose. I would this loosening the collar, and pushing down on the steerer would tighten it up but cant say for sure.
Did you solve your problem? Got the same problem
I can’t get the cap back on. The screw thread on the screw doesn’t appear to reach the corresponding thread in the hole. Any idea what I may be doing wrong?
Can you flip the stem on this and ditch the hoverbar?
Are there supposed to be spacers included with a new bike purchase? I did hear the 2.0 Future Shock got them.
Why would it come with no spring in it? Do shops add a spring when prepping the bike? Also when tightening the cap after putting a spring in what do you hold the shaft with? Thanks for this great video. I could really use a shop manual.
The future shock is capable and designed to be ridden with or without a spring. The springs are there to tighten it up meaning the loosest setting is no spring. Shops vary in what they do for set up but I think most leave it as is when the bike is built. Having the loosest setting is good to test ride if a person has never tried the future shock before so that the motion is most noticeable. After an initial test ride the future shock can and should be tailored to each individual riders preferences.
I hope this helps I'm a little unclear on your second question so if you could please verify I will answer as best as I can.
@@ChrisEnockson Excellent, thank you. The second question after thinking about it doesn't matter. I figured the shock shaft might spin when you tighten down the cap. But, you just held it with your hand. Thanks again :)
Thanks for the very informative video. Does anyone know if the Future Shock design has any damping built into the cartridge?
Very interesting video, thanks a lot! I got my Comp E5 delivered yesterday and took it to a 25 mile test ride this morning. On very rough terrain, roots and stones I felt that there was "contact" within the head tube / future shock. Tonight I saw your video and opened the future shock system on my bike to see that there was no spring installed. Is there any chance that the bike / head tube / future shock can be damaged riding without a spring installed? I cannot find any information from Specialized on this exact question/topic. Thx!
The future shock is designed to be used with any of the three springs or no spring. The springs just add additional tension to the shock and they typically come with no spring installed.
@@ChrisEnockson Thanks for the information! May I ask where you got this information from? Directly from Specialized? Thanks!
Great video.....do you use any carbon paste between cartridge and steerer tube because my bike came without any
No I do not but I dont think it would hurt.
Great video. So with NO 'helper' spring added, the shock is as 'soft' as it can be? The 'helper' springs only make the 'default' (not accessible) spring stiffer/harder. Is that correct?
You got it right
@@ChrisEnockson Would you know if the Diverge Comp E5 was supposed to come with the 3 future shock helper springs? I received no extra springs with my bike.
@@michenzi I actually just called my bike shop yesterday about this. The comp e5 does ship with all 3 springs in the spare parts box, some shops just keep it and will install it for you if you ask them. I am bringing mine in for them to install the helper spring
@@christina8433 Thanks for your reply!! I will contact my shop. I hope you're enjoying your diverge!!
Thanks for this. I do have a question about the fork on this bike.
What is the steerer diameter?
Bottom and top?
Curious how this differed from a traditional tapered steerer.
Thanks.
Hi. I need to replace a cracked rubber boot on the 1.5 future shock. I heard that it's hard to do. Do you have any tips?
It's not hard to do once disassembled.
The design of the steerer tube concerns me greatly!!!!!! The fork requires 2 slots and a hole to be cut into the top of the steerer tube??? That doesn't seem like a good long term design. They are going to take one of the most critical junctions and compress 2 ends around a shock that is moving, while holding it in place with a screw through a hole in the steerer tube?!?!
🤫
Great video! Got myself a Diverge Expert 2022 recently and found out there's neither a spring nor a downtube protector with it. Are those two standard or only an option ? thx
The bike should come with three additional springs. Not sure about the protector.
great stuff when can i buy one of these future shock delete. please advise when and where. andy👍
The rubber boot above the collar severely ripped on my 2020 Roubaix, after only 500 miles. I'm going to swap the blue spring for the black to minimize topping out. How do I take off the boot and stick on a new one? I tried jamming my thumbnails under the bottom of the boot to slide it off but it wont even budge. TIA.
Honestly I have only replaced the boot on a future shock once. I dont remember it being hard to do but can not remember how I did it.
If anybody knows how to replace the boot I would love to know. Mine ripped as well!
Great informative video.
With provided sleeve can you use any normal road stem, I presume you could?
Yes you can
Yes, i put a 3T on my Roubaix. 🚴🏼🚴🏼
Do you need to lube the top spring?
Not that I am aware of
Can I retro fit futureshock onto my Sirrus 4.0 carbon or an alternative product for shock resistance, for some reason they have not included this on the 2021 4.0 carbon :/
Great video and thank you!
No it requires a specific frame and fork.
@@ChrisEnockson found an alternative product :)
Can I upgrade my specialized turbo Vado to the future shock? It already has the rubber boot.
No the bike has to have a special fork for the future shock.
What an evil apparatus :)
Where would you place spacers to raise stem / stack height ?
I’ve replaced the rubber seal on mine, putting it back together now there is a gap between the plastic cover and the frame and it’s driving me crazy, I can’t figure out why. Anyone know?
Make sure the future shock cartridge is all the way down in the fork. Also make sure you don't have a headset spacer under the cover. Hope that helps.
@@ChrisEnocksonthank you. It’s all the way down and no spacer. Apparently it’s normal to have a gap.
Small gap is ok for sure im not sure how big your talking.
@@ChrisEnockson a mere millimetre if that.
Is there any difference when disassembling a 2.0 future shock?
if they ship without a spring .. does it damage bike if going for a bike ride? I thought the middle spring came installed.
Perfectly ok and intended to be ridden without a "helper" spring
Where can I get those spacers? Since regular spacers don't fit and mine did not come with any.
Should come with the bike but if not any Specialized dealer should have them or be able to get them.
@@ChrisEnockson my Specialized dealer does not even believe you can add spacers to it. Maybe I will call a Specialized headquarters to request it
Sad to hear that. Tell them to watch my video 🤣
Hi Chris! Great thanks for the video! Just to clarify, to put the spacers on, it is enough to loosen just the bolt head on drive side, right? No need to bother with these 2 ones on the side to tension the headset.. did I got it right?
As to put spacers I do not need to take out the steerer tube collar, right?
I got a bit confused as in 13th minute you claim that I can not tension the steerer tube collar without the future shock inside.. but I got it right, to take out / put back the future shock it is enough to loosen just the bolt head on drive side without loosen the side pins.. pls confirm
And one more thing ;-) The flat surface of the cartridge needs to be aligned to the front, while the stem shim to the back of the bike, right? Thanks a loooot
Yes correct. (I did that wrong in the video).
Not necessarily. Loosening that bolt will allow the future shock to slide out and add or subtract spacers. The only problem is the future shock allows the collar to be tightened in place and your headset will likely be loose if you dont readjust the set screws after reinstalling the future shock. Hope this helps.
NOT GOOD, you overtightened the headset, look at the instructions please. As you showed, you nip up headset using the smaller inside grubscrews.
But, when you tighten down the locking nut you are supposed to hold the actual headset tightening bolt or inside grubscrew with a small spanner on the flats at the bottom of the screw.
You can actually see when you tightened up the bigger locking nut it spun the smaller grub screws therefore overtightening the headset.
Please remove this vidoe or edit it.
What are the "helper" spring for? How does it actually works? Anyone tried the different spring and feel any performance difference?? Thanks in advance.
They add stiffness to the suspension. I will say the difference is subtle not drastic.
why not ride a mountain bike?
Where can you find torque info.
media.specialized.com/support/collateral/0000134022.pdf
More crap to make your bike more complicated and not last as long.