The internal haze is NOT from "inferior glass". It is due to the use of balsam glue (clarified tree sap) to cement lens elements together. This was a common practice on many lenses through the 1960s. Eventually the glue components separate, spreading to the internal works of the lens. It is indeed common in many older lenses (yes even Leitz) and is difficult to remove. Tooth paste is less than ideal since it contains many other additives which could do worse damage down the road.
The haze appears on the surface of the glass on the rear element, not between the rear elements. The haze is usually covered with an oily gunk. The haze can be polished off, but requires a properly machine. The glass is indeed "inferior," which is why it affects only 2 models of this lens, the f/1.8 and f/1.2. The f/1.4 and f/2.2 models are impervious to this problem, though they use the same lubricant. The 7.5mm f/3.5 Olympus Zuiko lens is also infamous for this issue.
I have a canon L3 and I pulled the shutter lever to take a photo but I spun the release ring and and the camera made a sound as if taking a picture, and now I discovered that ring actually is for rewind, so my question is as follows: now i can’t use the film anymore and I will need to remove it?
Hello. I would like to ask for your advice. Right now I'm interested in the Canon VI and P. I can't decide since they're both beautiful. Which one should I choose? And is there a 50 mm 1.4 chrome lens and is it expensive? Or is there any substitute?
I just purchased a Canon P. Just curious if anyone else has trouble seeing the 35mm frameline. It is so out of frame no matter how close I place my eye. Is this normal also if it is has anyone found a work around?
Only the super old ones. It's Leica Thread Mount not M mount. Voigtlander made some outstanding lenses for the cam too, as far as I know the most modern glass for these
At video 8:24 "make the rest of the shutter speeds a little bit more accurate" - Wow, talk about practicing 'camera repair' without a license. - I bet after doing this kind of repair to the cameras you sale, they're then considered "Overhauled" - "Refurbished" or C L A'ed and in Mint +++ condition (Ebay Japan geesh...). - Totally irresponsible advise, tightening shutter curtain barrel springs without 1st sanitizing & relubricating then utilizing the aid of a proper 3 sensor shutter speed tester (you need to know the Curtain Travel Times !). But what do I know, I've been a full-time camera service technician since 1978...
Well built camera but no way as good as a Leica I know Leica are expensive but if you buy a iii series they are well made , probably the smallest rangefinder ever made. And really good rangefinder and just beautiful and pocketable
Toothpaste??? on a coated lens.....Seriously??? The toothpaste can and will remove even modern lens coatings. You really shouldn't be giving advice about camera repair if this is the sort of information you intend to provide. Just Stop!!!
Seriously. I have worked on literally hundreds of these lenses, and have learned from experience what works and what doesn't. In the case of these Canon lenses, certain models used an inferior glass, solvent gases from the helicoid lubricant adhere to the lens coating, and eventually pass through it and etch the glass. For lenses where the haze is still only on the coating, they may or may not be cleaned chemically, those which are not must be cleaned abrasively, there is no other way to do it. I have used various lens polishing compounds over the years, such as cerium oxide or various aluminum oxides, but found them to be no better than ordinary toothpaste.
Usually these coatings,at least at the open surfaces were hardened,otherwise one could'nt clean them , so toothpaste without abrasives and gently wieder could work.But from my experience haze is mostly on the inner lenses so taken apart would require an optical Bank for readjustment.
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Thanks for the review. I think the P was the most aesthetically pleasing camera design ever. I wish Canon would develop a mirrorless P.
Thomas D. McHugh The Canon P was mirrorless
@@TheDecguy I believe he meant a modern mirrorless p
a digital P maybe.. 👍
Ya one with old lens adapter too
Canon P with Voigtlander 50mm 1.5 Nokton is a fantastic high quality combination!🙏🏼
Would have been even better if you'd taken the base plate off whilst talking through the various adjustments?
Im not all into Canon but that camera is really good looking.
The internal haze is NOT from "inferior glass". It is due to the use of balsam glue (clarified tree sap) to cement lens elements together. This was a common practice on many lenses through the 1960s. Eventually the glue components separate, spreading to the internal works of the lens. It is indeed common in many older lenses (yes even Leitz) and is difficult to remove. Tooth paste is less than ideal since it contains many other additives which could do worse damage down the road.
The haze appears on the surface of the glass on the rear element, not between the rear elements. The haze is usually covered with an oily gunk. The haze can be polished off, but requires a properly machine. The glass is indeed "inferior," which is why it affects only 2 models of this lens, the f/1.8 and f/1.2. The f/1.4 and f/2.2 models are impervious to this problem, though they use the same lubricant. The 7.5mm f/3.5 Olympus Zuiko lens is also infamous for this issue.
The guy who has a video on every camera ever
Great review, one correction though is the Canon 50/1.4 LTM is a Planar type lens, and not Sonnar.
Great videos.I have one on order from Japan.You didnt have any in stock.To be fair the basic service tasks dont look too difficult.Thanks
Beautiful camera. Would you clean the haze on viewfinders with toothpaste / water also?
The Canon 50mm f1.4 LTM is a Planar design not a Sonnar.
thank you very much!
rare sort of video with useful and practical tips
What tool did you used to remove the rangefinder circular protector? This black plastic tube...
I have a canon L3 and I pulled the shutter lever to take a photo but I spun the release ring and and the camera made a sound as if taking a picture, and now I discovered that ring actually is for rewind, so my question is as follows: now i can’t use the film anymore and I will need to remove it?
Hello. I would like to ask for your advice. Right now I'm interested in the Canon VI and P. I can't decide since they're both beautiful. Which one should I choose? And is there a 50 mm 1.4 chrome lens and is it expensive? Or is there any substitute?
Why would canon use different material for the lenses? I have trouble understanding.
Any tutorials on cleaning the lens?
ruclips.net/video/fxRTshj2FL0/видео.html
Is the selenium meter for the camera repairable.
GOOD afternoon SIR , Is That The Same Camera That You Have For Sale In You Web Site , thank you
Can M mount lenses be adapted to this body and retain infinity focus?
You can use L mount lenses on M mount cameras, but not vice versa.
I just purchased a Canon P. Just curious if anyone else has trouble seeing the 35mm frameline. It is so out of frame no matter how close I place my eye. Is this normal also if it is has anyone found a work around?
Sounds normal I think. Maybe look at a 7 instead, wider lines and maybe easier to see?
How common is the 1/1000 shutter speed problem...........?
Around one in ten Canon P cameras have this issue.
Do you do shopping service as well ? ill keep a checking your page to get a Canon P , VT or Yashica Mat 124 g
So buy a mint body and shop for Leica lens
Do you have canon p on sale?
So I can use my leica m Summicrons on this? Awesome.
You can use an L mount Summicron, or use an M to L adapter (which are a little expensive).
@@japanvintagecamera8869 M to L adapter?
Only the super old ones. It's Leica Thread Mount not M mount. Voigtlander made some outstanding lenses for the cam too, as far as I know the most modern glass for these
At video 8:24 "make the rest of the shutter speeds a little bit more accurate" - Wow, talk about practicing 'camera repair' without a license. - I bet after doing this kind of repair to the cameras you sale, they're then considered "Overhauled" - "Refurbished" or C L A'ed and in Mint +++ condition (Ebay Japan geesh...). - Totally irresponsible advise, tightening shutter curtain barrel springs without 1st sanitizing & relubricating then utilizing the aid of a proper 3 sensor shutter speed tester (you need to know the Curtain Travel Times !). But what do I know, I've been a full-time camera service technician since 1978...
y2ktube Jesus Christ calm down 😂
Well, seems like this non licenced camera repair methods do work quiet good sometimes. Just saying
@@scheichi2000 Only by chance, I wouldnt risk my equipment to a so-called repair person with such an attitude.
50/1.4 is not a sonnar type lens 🤦♂️
I wonder why the hell canon not try to recreating this look for their mirrorless camera unlike fuji, leica, and olympus
Do you have a physical store in Japan?
Thanks for your reply, I don't have a physical store in Japan, I work from my home. I can recommend some good stores if you are interested.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 can you tell me for buy canon p in Tokyo ?
Japan Vintage Camera could you please recommend me some stores in Tokyo/saitama/Kanagawa? Thank you
We buy lenses not the cameras
Well built camera but no way as good as a Leica
I know Leica are expensive but if you buy a iii series they are well made , probably the smallest rangefinder ever made.
And really good rangefinder and just beautiful and pocketable
Paying for the name
SERIOUSLY... TOOTHPASTE
Yes, it actually works!
Toothpaste??? on a coated lens.....Seriously??? The toothpaste can and will remove even modern lens coatings. You really shouldn't be giving advice about camera repair if this is the sort of information you intend to provide. Just Stop!!!
Seriously. I have worked on literally hundreds of these lenses, and have learned from experience what works and what doesn't. In the case of these Canon lenses, certain models used an inferior glass, solvent gases from the helicoid lubricant adhere to the lens coating, and eventually pass through it and etch the glass. For lenses where the haze is still only on the coating, they may or may not be cleaned chemically, those which are not must be cleaned abrasively, there is no other way to do it. I have used various lens polishing compounds over the years, such as cerium oxide or various aluminum oxides, but found them to be no better than ordinary toothpaste.
Usually these coatings,at least at the open surfaces were hardened,otherwise one could'nt clean them , so toothpaste without abrasives and gently wieder could work.But from my experience haze is mostly on the inner lenses so taken apart would require an optical Bank for readjustment.
montre la caliter putain c pas si dure
Écris bien putain c’est pas si dur
Maybe I should not buy the cameras that you present on you tube.
Not very accurate.
わるいけど、随分細かくコケにしてますね。レンズの白濁はライカにもコンタックスにもあったし、シャッターの不具合はどのメーカーにもありました。長期間放置されたフォーカル機は完調なわけもなく、1000分の1が開かないなど、ライカも同様。とにかく底意地の悪い差別的解説ですね。
Thanks for the review. I think the P was the most aesthetically pleasing camera design ever. I wish Canon would develop a mirrorless P.