Crazy, I just found this video searching an issue Im having with my boat. Les (Canadian Swamp King) was a friend of mine. He used to visit me in Florida when traveling. Had lots of good times riding with him.Miss that crazy Canadian. RIP Les!
Question on the removal of that transfer shaft itself. About how many full "turns out" does it take to loosen that inner 12mm hex special nut before you change out to use the specialty splined tool to continue removing the transfer shaft? I messed up a bit when removing mine and ended up with the 12mm hex socket attached to a breaker bar and added a 4.5' cheater bar. I used that long-handle specialty tool that holds the flywheel in place and pinned it under a low workbench cabinet bottom and REALLY REALLY turned hard on that 12mm breaker bar setup. It CRACKED loudly and then still was rather difficult to continue turning counter clockwise for maybe 1 to 3 full rotations at best. Then it became very difficult again and suddenly SNAPPED loudly again and the entire transfer shaft spun off. Basically, I accidentally removed the entire transfer shaft without using the splined specialty tool to turn it out like the second stage of the shop manual states to do...after "turning the special screw out till it stops". I didn't really know when to stop. Fortunately, that special screw stayed in there but now I'm worried about reassembly. I have NO intention of replacing that special bolt or the transfer shaft. I plan to re-use them and take my chances. I do plan to clean out the inner threads of the transfer shaft with a wire wheel on a drill or pneumatic tool and then apply the appropriate Loctite 648 on the threads of the crank snout, the threads of the end of the transfer shaft and the "Holder" nut at the tip of it all as per the manual FWIW.
Hello, greetings from Philadelphia Pennsylvania, I have a situation about this part. I thought it was a threaded piece and that it needed to be removed to be able to remove the valve block and that is not the case. As you can see, I damaged it trying to unscrew it. I can clean it well and continue repairing my engine or It is a seal that can be removed and replaced but not Sabrina. How about what tools or procedure? Let's see if you can help me with your experience. This is the first time that I have dared to repair an engine until I took it out and opened it because it has low compression in All the cylinders, everything else apart from the valves that are a little carbonized visually, the rest looks good, the pistons are very clean, no scratches on the cylinders, they appear to be stuck rings, this engine was out of use for a long time due to a large opening in the haul. an accident. engine is a 2017 yamaha fx sho 1.8.
We are not big fans of the Yamaha engines right now, as we've seen most of our friends' machines cylinder heads crack due to poor design. We haven’t had much experience with the Kawasaki engines, but we understand they are very good. Nevertheless, we would install a Rotax engine, as we are very familiar with them, and they are very reliable. Good luck!
If it wasn't the rust on the valve stem how did the valves get bent when the timming chain was not broke , and the timming did not jump or all the valves would be bent.
Great video! Do you have to completely remove the cams to remove the head? I have a slight overheat issue so I would just be pulling the head to clean it? Couldn't tell if the cams blocked the head studs. I'm starting with the exhaust and just hoping it's a block in there. Only overheats when you run at 7k RPM for 5 min or so (2015 AR242 twin 1.8's) . Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for the video!
Yes the cams have to come out to access the head bolts. The Yamahas are open loop cooling so if your machine has been used in silty water it could have some silt build up in the cooling passages I would try disconnecting hoses and flushing the individual cooling components with fresh water before pulling the head.
Thats why 4strokes are not good on the water .rust on the valve stems locked up valves then the piston smaked them breaking the piston skirt, witch im sure bent the connecting rod and probably took out the cylinder with it.
If you follow the series to the end you'll see the cause of the problem ...and it's not the valve stems. The same problem was found on 2 other Yamahas in our group.
I am disappointed that Yamaha does not reinforce their cylinder deck. This is a high performance engine and it should be engineered to be a long lasting reliable high performance engine.
I have a 2014 FZR with the SVHO engine. I found this video because I have a similar problem. I took mine out riding a few days ago in Mobile Bay. Then went up bay minette creek. The water was cold. So I’m guessing going from warm water to cold water and turning my engine off when we stopped at the end of the creek for a few minutes may have cracked the cylinder head because mine also had water in the oil. It would only go 4200 rpms on the way back to the launch. So I ran oil through it 5 times to try and flush the salt water. It still has a tiny bit of milky oil. But looks a lot better. My question is...is there a way to clean the water out completely without tearing the whole engine down like you did if it is only the gasket or cracked head? And how long will it take to form rust? It has only been two days for me. I’m hoping that mine is just the gasket (best case). Fingers crossed.
That’s terrible news. It appears that this problem is very, very common with SVHO YamahaS.You’ve got to work very quickly. Rust will start quickly and if it’s salt water in there, it will rust within a few days. If it were me and I didn’t want to take the whole thing apart, I would at least confirm that it is a bad gasket and not a cracked cylinder head, replace it, and then change the oil a few more times until it stayed clear. Good luck!
So there really isn’t a way to clear the white looking oil other than running numerous oil changes through it over and over? And yes, I’m definitely worried about rust. Also, thanks for this video. It really helped me so far pulling my SVHO engine apart.
Newbie question, since these are marine grade engines, why is there rust on them are they specially treated or did the owner not do flush outs properly?
This engine had water in it. Unfortunately, the engines are not rust proof and will quickly rust if water gets in it. That's why it's critical that if water gets in, it gets removed right away or rust will form.
I can’t recall. It was well-used, but not year-round. The other Yamaha riders who had the same problem were riding skis that I’d say had between 200 and 300 hours on them.
We’re not Yamaha experts, but if you’d like to send a couple of pictures and a description of your problem through our email link (3ftDeepChannel@gmail.com), we’ll see if we can help.
Great educational video. Let us know if you would like to do a collaboration. Check out our "Ask George" DIY video tutorials. We are here to help our watercraft industry by producing original content. We are the largest watercraft club on the West Coast. Stay tuned and connected. ADVENTURE AWAITS..
Crazy, I just found this video searching an issue Im having with my boat. Les (Canadian Swamp King) was a friend of mine. He used to visit me in Florida when traveling. Had lots of good times riding with him.Miss that crazy Canadian. RIP Les!
We miss him too, Jim. He made every ride entertaining.
Great video and thank you for taking the time to video the breakdown
You guys are the best. I enjoyed this video. (I don't even have a Yamaha)
This randomly popped up on my RUclips. RIP Les.
I really miss him. He was such an endearing character and an inspiration for our sport.
@@3ftDeepChannel Agreed. He was a great guy!
T55 for the head bolts!
Don't use a security torx, at least one that you aren't going to warranty, as it may twist like mine did.
Thanks for the tip, William.
Question on the removal of that transfer shaft itself. About how many full "turns out" does it take to loosen that inner 12mm hex special nut before you change out to use the specialty splined tool to continue removing the transfer shaft? I messed up a bit when removing mine and ended up with the 12mm hex socket attached to a breaker bar and added a 4.5' cheater bar. I used that long-handle specialty tool that holds the flywheel in place and pinned it under a low workbench cabinet bottom and REALLY REALLY turned hard on that 12mm breaker bar setup. It CRACKED loudly and then still was rather difficult to continue turning counter clockwise for maybe 1 to 3 full rotations at best. Then it became very difficult again and suddenly SNAPPED loudly again and the entire transfer shaft spun off. Basically, I accidentally removed the entire transfer shaft without using the splined specialty tool to turn it out like the second stage of the shop manual states to do...after "turning the special screw out till it stops". I didn't really know when to stop. Fortunately, that special screw stayed in there but now I'm worried about reassembly. I have NO intention of replacing that special bolt or the transfer shaft. I plan to re-use them and take my chances. I do plan to clean out the inner threads of the transfer shaft with a wire wheel on a drill or pneumatic tool and then apply the appropriate Loctite 648 on the threads of the crank snout, the threads of the end of the transfer shaft and the "Holder" nut at the tip of it all as per the manual FWIW.
what a nice job much better then repairing cars
Hello, greetings from Philadelphia Pennsylvania, I have a situation about this part. I thought it was a threaded piece and that it needed to be removed to be able to remove the valve block and that is not the case. As you can see, I damaged it trying to unscrew it. I can clean it well and continue repairing my engine or It is a seal that can be removed and replaced but not Sabrina. How about what tools or procedure? Let's see if you can help me with your experience. This is the first time that I have dared to repair an engine until I took it out and opened it because it has low compression in All the cylinders, everything else apart from the valves that are a little carbonized visually, the rest looks good, the pistons are very clean, no scratches on the cylinders, they appear to be stuck rings, this engine was out of use for a long time due to a large opening in the haul. an accident. engine is a 2017 yamaha fx sho 1.8.
Need to sending pictures but not have idea how
we are not Yamaha people, so best off if you post your question in a Yamaha forum. Good luck.
If you were to install 250 to 300hp motor and jet combo in a mini jet boat. What make would you install and why? Thanks
We are not big fans of the Yamaha engines right now, as we've seen most of our friends' machines cylinder heads crack due to poor design. We haven’t had much experience with the Kawasaki engines, but we understand they are very good. Nevertheless, we would install a Rotax engine, as we are very familiar with them, and they are very reliable. Good luck!
If it is to be used in fresh water 💦 Yamaha SVHO .
If .....ocean going- salt water -Rotax only !!!!
Good point. The closed loop cooling system is a big plus in salt water.
You guys are real good
Hola amigo genial tus videos....👌👌👌 podrías ayudarme a saber como desmontar un motor de yamaha fx desde el interior de la moto
Gracias por sus amables palabras. ¡Buena suerte con tu proyecto!
@@3ftDeepChannel tienes algun video para poder ver como sacas el motor del casco?
Lamentablemente no. Trabajamos principalmente en Sea-Doos.
@@3ftDeepChannel que posición lleva los llevas de inicio?
You’re a great friend
Good job!
Tnx for sharing!
Que posición lleva inicialmente los levas?? Sabrías ayudarme?
¿En qué contexto haces esta pregunta?
Спасибо!
If it wasn't the rust on the valve stem how did the valves get bent when the timming chain was not broke , and the timming did not jump or all the valves would be bent.
Yhis videos are better than Yamaha H Manual.
You should consider putting it together and offering for sale as DIY guidebooks should I say videos
Thanks, Steve!
Great video! Do you have to completely remove the cams to remove the head? I have a slight overheat issue so I would just be pulling the head to clean it? Couldn't tell if the cams blocked the head studs. I'm starting with the exhaust and just hoping it's a block in there. Only overheats when you run at 7k RPM for 5 min or so (2015 AR242 twin 1.8's) . Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for the video!
Yes the cams have to come out to access the head bolts.
The Yamahas are open loop cooling so if your machine has been used in silty water it could have some silt build up in the cooling passages I would try disconnecting hoses and flushing the individual cooling components with fresh water before pulling the head.
Mecânico de mão cheia, eu queria te a oportunidade de trabalhar com ele, aprende um pouco do conhecimento dele. Brazil
Thats why 4strokes are not good on the water .rust on the valve stems locked up valves then the piston smaked them breaking the piston skirt, witch im sure bent the connecting rod and probably took out the cylinder with it.
If you follow the series to the end you'll see the cause of the problem ...and it's not the valve stems. The same problem was found on 2 other Yamahas in our group.
I am disappointed that Yamaha does not reinforce their cylinder deck. This is a high performance engine and it should be engineered to be a long lasting reliable high performance engine.
Agreed!
I have a 2014 FZR with the SVHO engine. I found this video because I have a similar problem. I took mine out riding a few days ago in Mobile Bay. Then went up bay minette creek. The water was cold. So I’m guessing going from warm water to cold water and turning my engine off when we stopped at the end of the creek for a few minutes may have cracked the cylinder head because mine also had water in the oil. It would only go 4200 rpms on the way back to the launch. So I ran oil through it 5 times to try and flush the salt water. It still has a tiny bit of milky oil. But looks a lot better. My question is...is there a way to clean the water out completely without tearing the whole engine down like you did if it is only the gasket or cracked head? And how long will it take to form rust? It has only been two days for me. I’m hoping that mine is just the gasket (best case). Fingers crossed.
That’s terrible news. It appears that this problem is very, very common with SVHO YamahaS.You’ve got to work very quickly. Rust will start quickly and if it’s salt water in there, it will rust within a few days. If it were me and I didn’t want to take the whole thing apart, I would at least confirm that it is a bad gasket and not a cracked cylinder head, replace it, and then change the oil a few more times until it stayed clear. Good luck!
So there really isn’t a way to clear the white looking oil other than running numerous oil changes through it over and over? And yes, I’m definitely worried about rust. Also, thanks for this video. It really helped me so far pulling my SVHO engine apart.
Other than taking the engine apart, no. There's no other way to ensure you get all the water out. Good luck!
Thank you sir
Newbie question, since these are marine grade engines, why is there rust on them are they specially treated or did the owner not do flush outs properly?
This engine had water in it. Unfortunately, the engines are not rust proof and will quickly rust if water gets in it. That's why it's critical that if water gets in, it gets removed right away or rust will form.
@@3ftDeepChannel thank you sir
Is there a video on putting the engine back together?
No, because it wasn't put back together. The owner hasn't decided what to do about it, as it'll cost thousands of $$.
excellent video, it is not clear why this happened?
Not yet. It's still a mystery we're working on solving.
How much hour of runtime had ski?
I can’t recall. It was well-used, but not year-round. The other Yamaha riders who had the same problem were riding skis that I’d say had between 200 and 300 hours on them.
Wow ... I have same year non turbo ... 😳
I'm guessing uprighted the wrong way as partial issue ?
No. We're now thinking that the cylinder head may be cracked after all and will be running another test on it, soon.
would the warranty cover these type of damages?
Only if the warranty is still active. This machine’s warranty expired a long time ago.
Hello I have yamaha sho fx1800 check engine code fault 68 problem is the right handlebar switch blue ?
Our expertise is primarily with Sea-Doo machines. Try one of the Yamaha forums. Good luck.
hi, i m going to buy a yamaha vx 110 deluxe 2006 , it has only 19 hours. not even 2 hours per year. Is it bad or good?
I'm not a big fan of machines over 10 years old, if you're a rider who doesn't have a lot of mechanical skills.
I'm having a major issue with a waverunner anyway I could contact you
We’re not Yamaha experts, but if you’d like to send a couple of pictures and a description of your problem through our email link (3ftDeepChannel@gmail.com), we’ll see if we can help.
Ouch!!
Hola por que ce rompe la cadena ??
Svho 2016
A cabeça do cilindro rachou
Do you know the firing order
Sorry, no we don't have the service manual for that engine anymore.
Your my HERO!
Thanks for keeping us inspired, Jose!
I have to admit, towards the end it was hard watching. Sooo much damage :(
Hi
Hello
Q sea en español xf
marhabaan kayf halik ladaya jt ski yamaha 1300 walakin suraeatah batiyuh wakula shay' fih yaemal kayf aijealh sarie arjwk 'ana tasaeudini wataetinii alhali 'iinaa min aleiraq arjwk saeidini liaywjad ladaya almal hataa aishtaray wahid jadid
wholly fuck you finally bring out the power tools
Great educational video. Let us know if you would like to do a collaboration. Check out our "Ask George" DIY video tutorials. We are here to help our watercraft industry by producing original content. We are the largest watercraft club on the West Coast. Stay tuned and connected. ADVENTURE AWAITS..
Very slick channel, guys! Well done. Subscribed and will think about how we may be able to collaborate.