Hi Brian, I've been using the LP EP 1990 with TempMod for around 12 years now. During this time, I've tried many things to extract the best flavors from light roasts. First, make sure your water has the right hardness. If it's too soft, the result will be sour. If it's too hard, it will be bitter. The ideal water hardness is around 7-8dH or 119.7-136.8 GPG. For a light roast, it's better to use a precision basket like IMS. When grinding finely, you can extract more caramel flavors with a precision basket. You don't need to heat the LP for 20 minutes as it's a waste of energy. The green light indicates that the pressostat has kicked in and started heating. When the green light goes off, the pressure is around 1 bar. You can calibrate it using a pressure gauge. After 2-3 flashes and emptying the pumps 3 times (I use a precision thermometer), I usually have around 93.4°C on the group after 7 minutes of turning the machine on. Using a 1mm Puck Screen makes the light roast a bit softer and reduces the harsh sourness, resulting in less channeling. Blooming is essential, but I let it bloom for about 10 seconds. It's also crucial to understand what happens during the extraction phase. In the first 25% (lever range), you extract all the sour aromas. From 25% to 40%, you extract notes like floral and fruity flavors. From 40% to 55%, you extract all the bitterness. The rest goes into the sink. The key is to balance the flavors (bitter and sour), allowing the middle notes to stand out.
Yep, premill LPs you just have to turn it off to let it cool down. Most have two separate heaters you can switch between, with mine I use the 1000W side to bring the boiler up to temperature quickly then just use the 200W side while the group heats up, using that same dry pumping to cycle a little hot steam through it. The later models have a pressurestat to regulate boiler temperature in an indirect way through pressure. I find I get much faster heatup time using the dry pumping after purging the 'false pressure' from the air already in the boiler heating up, it seems the steam is much better at moving heat around. A wet cloth is a really easy way to cool the group down after pulling a shot, I know lighter roasts are fine at higher temperatures but you still don't really want the group to be near or even above 100. It's worth noting that the water temperature can actually be above 100C because the boiler is under pressure!
Ayyy thanks for this video Brian. We needed more videos of LP turbos and also turbo blooms. I wonder if the puck screen makes any difference here... And actually I use 14g so I needed to micro-fellini to get the target 1:3. I might actually now do 10g sans-fellini to see any difference. Have you measured the flow rate of your turbos? Is it closer to 2ml/s or higher?
Curious how the Pavoni instruction manual describes pretty much the turbo shot. Ie waiting for pre infusion to take place and when drips start to be seen to pull the shot. I’ve never had a bad shot in all the years I’ve owned them and that’s over 20 years. I like the idea of the temperature strip though and that has improved consistency of my shots. Would love to get a bottomless Portafilter, but not convinced about the level of improvement I’d get. Nice video. 🙏
Bitterness = too hot or over extraction and sourness is usually from under extraction if you're getting both it could be from channeling or a poor grinder with very uneven grind distribution.
Thank you so much for this!!! I recently upgraded from a sette to a df64 with multi purpose burrs and EVERYTHING has been so overly sour on my flair 58
Did you notice your temperature strip is not in good contact with group head, so the temp. reading is poor. At 1:38 in the video when you touch the temp strip between 85 and 90 it moves because it is not stuck to the group head. The movement is noticable because the light reflected off the strip changes a lot as the strip moves.
With my post millennium I haven't noticed any issues with the temperature, no clue what it's actually brewing at, but it seems to work alright! I usually do 15g in and get 25-31g out. So basically ristretto all the time, but it works nicely that way even with a light roast. I am curious to try a lower dose and see how that turns out.
I've had a post mill europicolla for about a year now. I've never had a single struggle with managing temperature, why? Because I use the standard portafilter as a heat sink. Just run it under cold water for 3 or 4 seconds and then pop it into the group head for 30seconds. I can do this right after a shot and by the time I've grinded and prepped another shot (in my bottomless), the group head is ready to go. Basically never have to worry about temperature.
Here’s something that is curious for me, how does the temperature switch in pre millennium europiccola works and why is that considered less temp stable than newer pressurestat models? Thanks!!
hello I recently bought a la pavoni, but I have an issue and i don't know where it come. My issue is when I raise up the lever, coffee immediatlty come through and when I push the lever there is no pressure on it, do you know how to solve it ?
@@BrianQuan okay i tested it whith finer coffe but the probleme is always the same, when lift up the lever, the coffee flows by itself even if I don t lift down the lever
LP boiler capacity is small relative to how much water you can lose in a matter of seconds haha. Also refilling is a PITA if there's any sort of pressure built.
I’ve had that grinder for 10 years and never thought to do that. The simple things are always the best 😂
Hi Brian, I've been using the LP EP 1990 with TempMod for around 12 years now. During this time, I've tried many things to extract the best flavors from light roasts. First, make sure your water has the right hardness. If it's too soft, the result will be sour. If it's too hard, it will be bitter. The ideal water hardness is around 7-8dH or 119.7-136.8 GPG.
For a light roast, it's better to use a precision basket like IMS. When grinding finely, you can extract more caramel flavors with a precision basket. You don't need to heat the LP for 20 minutes as it's a waste of energy. The green light indicates that the pressostat has kicked in and started heating. When the green light goes off, the pressure is around 1 bar. You can calibrate it using a pressure gauge. After 2-3 flashes and emptying the pumps 3 times (I use a precision thermometer), I usually have around 93.4°C on the group after 7 minutes of turning the machine on.
Using a 1mm Puck Screen makes the light roast a bit softer and reduces the harsh sourness, resulting in less channeling. Blooming is essential, but I let it bloom for about 10 seconds. It's also crucial to understand what happens during the extraction phase. In the first 25% (lever range), you extract all the sour aromas. From 25% to 40%, you extract notes like floral and fruity flavors. From 40% to 55%, you extract all the bitterness. The rest goes into the sink. The key is to balance the flavors (bitter and sour), allowing the middle notes to stand out.
Thanks for the tips! I tried the last method and I think it made a huge difference already
Fascinating, I have to try these 2 profiles. Anyhow you hit why lever machines ( especially direct levers) are so much fun. Cheers
This was great, I was unsure about how to pull a turbo on my pavoni… will give this a go!!! 😊 thanks
Happy to see a fellow member of lever fever
Well done. Learning a lot from you Brian!
Thank you so much for this. I just roasted up some Burundi to just the end of first crack and I’m going to try this in a couple of days.
The bong isolator from coffee-sensor makes a huge difference to controlling the head temperature. Especially on the pre mil machines like my PL Pro
Yep, premill LPs you just have to turn it off to let it cool down. Most have two separate heaters you can switch between, with mine I use the 1000W side to bring the boiler up to temperature quickly then just use the 200W side while the group heats up, using that same dry pumping to cycle a little hot steam through it.
The later models have a pressurestat to regulate boiler temperature in an indirect way through pressure.
I find I get much faster heatup time using the dry pumping after purging the 'false pressure' from the air already in the boiler heating up, it seems the steam is much better at moving heat around.
A wet cloth is a really easy way to cool the group down after pulling a shot, I know lighter roasts are fine at higher temperatures but you still don't really want the group to be near or even above 100.
It's worth noting that the water temperature can actually be above 100C because the boiler is under pressure!
Extremely helpful, thanks!.
Brian, thanks so much for the different shot styles.
Now I am wondering what TDS you can reach with those.
Did you ever bother to check?
Insanely helpful. Thank you!
Thanks! It was a great video. Where did you get the temp strip?
First time I heard about blooming, which I’m gonna try since the shots I’m been pulling have been horrible.
I fully agree. I pulled some bad looking shots that tasted amazing ! Don't throw it away before tasting :D Have you also tried any cold recipes?
awesome! can you link which portafilter you use?
Ayyy thanks for this video Brian. We needed more videos of LP turbos and also turbo blooms.
I wonder if the puck screen makes any difference here... And actually I use 14g so I needed to micro-fellini to get the target 1:3. I might actually now do 10g sans-fellini to see any difference.
Have you measured the flow rate of your turbos? Is it closer to 2ml/s or higher?
Thanks brian! Been having some trouble with my (pre-mil) europiccola, but just tried this out and it’s tasty!
How are you enjoying the Pharos?
Curious how the Pavoni instruction manual describes pretty much the turbo shot. Ie waiting for pre infusion to take place and when drips start to be seen to pull the shot. I’ve never had a bad shot in all the years I’ve owned them and that’s over 20 years. I like the idea of the temperature strip though and that has improved consistency of my shots. Would love to get a bottomless Portafilter, but not convinced about the level of improvement I’d get. Nice video. 🙏
LP EP owner here, I struggle with bitterness/acidity. Would love to see a "trouble-shooting" video to tackle those issues 😁🙏
Bitterness = too hot or over extraction and sourness is usually from under extraction if you're getting both it could be from channeling or a poor grinder with very uneven grind distribution.
Dry pumping will be hard on seals!?
Thank you so much for this!!! I recently upgraded from a sette to a df64 with multi purpose burrs and EVERYTHING has been so overly sour on my flair 58
Did you notice your temperature strip is not in good contact with group head, so the temp. reading is poor. At 1:38 in the video when you touch the temp strip between 85 and 90 it moves because it is not stuck to the group head. The movement is noticable because the light reflected off the strip changes a lot as the strip moves.
With my post millennium I haven't noticed any issues with the temperature, no clue what it's actually brewing at, but it seems to work alright! I usually do 15g in and get 25-31g out. So basically ristretto all the time, but it works nicely that way even with a light roast.
I am curious to try a lower dose and see how that turns out.
How long is your pre-infusion?
I've had a post mill europicolla for about a year now. I've never had a single struggle with managing temperature, why? Because I use the standard portafilter as a heat sink. Just run it under cold water for 3 or 4 seconds and then pop it into the group head for 30seconds. I can do this right after a shot and by the time I've grinded and prepped another shot (in my bottomless), the group head is ready to go. Basically never have to worry about temperature.
Well Done!!! 👏👏👏👏
Whats up with that grinder in the background?
That is the Titan Rocky. Will cover it in a future video :)
@@BrianQuan still waiting on that video.
If your group head is below 85 degrees Celsius you’re going to get mostly air when you pull the lever up and give you a low yield
That's right
Same thing if you have the boiler pressure under 0.8 bar
I have it at 1.0 and i pull at 98°C for light roasts
Super easy, much less labour.
But tastier
Awesome!
Here’s something that is curious for me, how does the temperature switch in pre millennium europiccola works and why is that considered less temp stable than newer pressurestat models? Thanks!!
hello I recently bought a la pavoni, but I have an issue and i don't know where it come. My issue is when I raise up the lever, coffee immediatlty come through and when I push the lever there is no pressure on it, do you know how to solve it ?
grind finer
@@BrianQuan can you tell me a grinder to start ?
@@BrianQuan okay i tested it whith finer coffe but the probleme is always the same, when lift up the lever, the coffee flows by itself even if I don t lift down the lever
@@ALEXANDREMMII when did you last replace your seals and gaskets? I had similar issues that were resolved after I installed a new gasket kit.
@@petertzeng6127 good to know Ty so much
Why not flush water through instead of dry pulls?
LP boiler capacity is small relative to how much water you can lose in a matter of seconds haha. Also refilling is a PITA if there's any sort of pressure built.
@@BrianQuan Ah true! I have a professional and only ever make 2 cups so this is not an issue fortunately.
i dont have the pressure ,please help
Fellinis can work if you get a puck screen.
What mug is that?
Those are the Fellow Monty demitasse cups! They also come in a cappuccino, cortado, and latte size!
I think I've done those turbo shots accidentally lol
stradivari
I bay i cant make coffe.horrebile