At 17:34, you mention the price of the QRP Labs QCX: 5W CW Transceiver includes postage. At the time of writing this, there is a $6.30 international shipping charge, at least to my QTH in Iowa. Not a deal-breaker by any means, but just wanted to point that out for accuracy. EDIT: I did check to see if alternative shipping methods existed in the checkout process, but was unable to find anything outside of the default International Shipping option. I'm thinking Hans is taking steps to decrease the ship times somehow.
ARGH! Right you are! I even went back to my own order to look. The shipping charge is US$6.30. My apologies for the mistake. I'll correct this in a future video. Good catch!
Dave, your delivery is becoming more and more entertaining as well as informative. Keep up the great work. We appreciate you. As to desoldering, I felt your pain until I purchased a Hakko FR300. I recapped a Kenwood TS-830 with it. A pure pleasure to use. With all the kit building you do, it is a must have in the shack. Worth every penny.
Last Friday, I was able to hold a conversation with another operator, who was in Indiana and I'm in north North Dakota, all on a legal CB setup with all the powerful solar activity we've been having. 4 watts AM, 900-1,000 miles away, and he said I was coming in 9db by his transceiver's meter. I know I outta be using my Ham license more, but 11meter CB legal operation is technical QRP fun work. And like you say, in contacts like that, it feels like magic. Thanks for the advice in your videos to do these kinds of things!
Another great video Dave. My first and so far only HF transceiver is a BITX40. I am more interested in building and tinkering than fighting with cranky old men yelling into $5000 toasters that they know nothing about. As for desoldering, a cheap ebay vacuum desoldering pump made a huge difference for me. Keep up the great work.
It is great pity that the Bitx40 is not available. It w as the sort of tcvr that could be changed and fooled about with because it came working (mostly) and did not cost that much to start with. TE Fidler
o and dave having a solder pump helps with desoldering. I don't know if you have on already but before I had one desoldering was hell. now I have a manual pump real cheap made from plastic sold by Velleman. you arm it and then take your soldering iron at the about 275 c for a 40-watt station is what I do and when I see the solder start to become liquid I put the pump right next to the iron and on the board and trigger the suction. then i remove the iron to get the other contact then most times its free and if the solder takes to long to get liquid i let the part cool a bit and pump up the temp so that the time on the component is as short as you can make it.
Hi Dave. I do enjoy your videos so keep them coming. Here is a couple things about desoldering. Generally unless you goof up and solder in the wrong part you are not trying to save it. The important thing is to save the board from being damaged (too much). So if I am replacing a part like a leaded IC I will use a pair of cutters and cut all of the pins off the body of the part, then use an iron with tweezers to remove the pins out of the holes. Mostly the removing the pin will remove most of the solder from the hole. But for the stubborn ones I use both a braid and a hand held suction pump. Depending on the application (or what I feel like) I will use one or the other or perhaps both. One thing to remember is to get solder out of a plated hole you need to get some heat into it. So sometimes after using the braid or pump has not cleared out the hole I will apply more solder and try again. Try not to rely on the copper on the board to conduct the heat into the hole as you are more likely to damage the board that way. So keep trying as I assure you learning to desolder is much easier than learning CW! 73, Jim WO7V
I actually ordered the QRP Labs CW model last month even though I do not know Morse Code. Yet. I figure this will be a great motivator and I am learning while I wait delivery. I second the use of solder wick and agree that the secret is to add more solder prior to laying the wick down. Good video Dave and good luck with the solder work.
I always get a shocked reaction when I mention that I can talk to someone 5000km away using a basic thin wire and less power than it takes to charge an iPhone. Great video!
Great video, Dave! You can get a desoldering station on amazon for a little under US$150. It might sound like a lot, but it's so much easier than using a "solder sucker" and braid, that it made it worth it to me. Most of these have temp control and use a little vacuum pump. Nice to have if you're like me and build a lot of kits. 73 - NB9T
David thanks for your great informative videos, i think you have learnt from every video, but this is the first(hope the last) video that makes me very move sick. Today i go for my novice ham licence in the Netherlands, fingers crossed. 73
My issue some qRP kits, like the QCX transceiver the receiver is usually marginal at best. The listener of the qRP signal is the one the suffers the most.
Desoldering: First, there are manual 'solder suckers' which is a syringe, a seal with a spring and a trigger. The trick to these is to put the nozzle against the board on ONE EDGE and leave room for air to flow around the molten solder and suck it into the syringe,. A little practice and you'll be sucking those nodes clean as a whistle. Second, there are the power vacuum soldering chamber which uses a vacuum to clean up all the soft solder, It's the easiest to use. Good luck 73's Mel
Dave, that was 3 watts *input* to your final. You were working with less than two watts into the antenna. I built an HW8 back in the day and it was doing about 3/4 watt on 15 meters. OK... 14:30 and on the Camera work literally gave me motion sickness and that NEVER happens to me....
You're right--back then everything was measured on input power. Regarding my camera work, my hands don't hold very still. I was trying to take video with one hand while using the other to point things out, and that really emphasizes the tremor. I'll have to think on another way. My wife, KBØVWW, has handled the camera from time to time, and she's steady as a rock (in more than one way!). I'll have to persuade her to take over the handheld camera chores.
Dave, you may recommend that new hams try QRO contacts before QRP. I can see your reasoning for that. Many older hams, when I began, suggested that wait until I could afford a more powerful rig before working HF. I, like you, began my ham HF work on QRP because my first rig was a QRP rig. Costing less than $200 in kit form with WARC Bands I got on the air with my Heathkit HW-9 and fell in love with QRP. The challenge of working contacts was strong enough for me to not become discouraged. I worked Stateside and many European contacts on one way and two way QRP contacts. I was having a ball. I didn't begin using QRO until I began contesting with groups of other hams. Now I enjoy a mixture of both QRP and QRO CW contacts. Still liking your videos Dave.
Of the many kits I am assembling now the QCX is one of them. I have taken a break from toroid winding. I have watched other reviews on this rig, but waiting to hear your review as well.
I do. It was my first rig. Along the way I picked up the HW-7 and HW-8 at the FDIM at Dayton Hamvention Vendor's Night (that's vendor's night at the hotel/motel where the FDIM is held). I haven't stayed in the same motel since ARCI moved from Miamisburg to Fairborn, Ohio. All 3 HW's work. I am considering doing many of the mod's to the HW-9 that DeMaw, Bryce and others have recommended over the years.
Hi Dave, if your local stores don't have mono accessories, check out Ebay. I have gotten mono accessory, and extension cables, as well as stereo to mono adapters to use headphones with my 35yr old Azden PCS 5000 EXT. Speaker jack at the back of the radio during my local Technet. And as for the desoldering, you are not alone. But I do have good success with using an compressed air gun with a medium needle type nozzle. I find this best when bulk desoldering. The compressed air can be messy at times, but if you prepare for the work, and you want to do it, it will be worth it. If you're blowin at low angle across the solder joint it should blow away the solder, and syphon out the solder down in the through hole plating. If you put some masking tape next the part to be extracted, the tape will catch and protect from flying metal spray. If through hole parts (solder) won't come out of the hole. Try poking a component cutoff lead or another kind of wire, heat it up and poke it through the hole wicking that solder up as you go through. Holding up the board and blowing out the hole from one side while heating the other side, is a good way to clear the hole after others have failed. Compressed air is messy and is better for bulk desoldering and getting tough with through holes that won't empty. Sometime try asking someone else not in the field of interest how they would fix this. Thanks Dave. Whadda ya think about some more extra class radio math lessons? Hint, hint, wink, wink.
ive worked alot of countries on qrp from my location here in the uk, my best being 2 watts to new york city, with a 5,5 report, and brazil on 5 watts, no fun using high power.
The selection of iron makes a vast difference in rework capabilities. I thought I had the best, a Weller W60P, 100 watt hog leg, Radio Shack 64-2060B De soldering Iron, and solder wick. It was a pain, resulting in a unacceptable quantity of damaged circuit boards and parts. I started using a Hakko FX-888D (temperature controlled iron) and what a difference. Yes the solder wick still worked, but now the spring loaded solder sucker had excellent results. Circuit boards and parts looked unscathed. Also a fine drill bit (Dremel) in a jewelers Pentalobe seems to selectively drill out the soft solder, great for clearing plate through holes.
One thing about new hams NOT trying QRP for their first radio... I completely agree with this. They should not, it's highly frustrating and foreboding to a novice. But, unfortunately, in the UK, new hams are restricted to QRP by their licence. Foundation Licence in the UK only allows 10 W PEP
How do you learn to solder/desolder? The same way you get to Carnegie Hall - practice, practice, practice! Thanks for advocating that new hams don't frustrate themselves by starting out with a QRP rig. 100 watts is much more forgiving of the common mistakes we all make when beginning. Once you build up the skills to make tough contacts, then you will be able to use and enjoy QRP. I once belonged to a club that ran a QRP Field Day every year. We went after those high point value QSOs, but after a while, we lost people. Only a few were able to sit down and make any quantity of contacts. We were losing the interest of the bulk of the group. Even though I was an avid QRPer and contester, I advocated to switch to 100 watt class and keep more of the club involved.
I prefer using solder braid to desolder. It's a small copper braid with flux in it, so you can put it over the joint in question then apply heat with the iron. It drinks up the solder, and the component almost falls out.
The key is the flux. For a long time I tried braid without success, but it turned out to merely be so old the flux had dried out. I put some fresh flux on the braid and it works like a charm.
I still prefer solder wick, but you have to first add some new solder to the point you want to desolder. And then use the solderwick to desolder. Afterwards you still might need to touch it with an solder iron because there is the tinyest amount of solder holding the part. Ore you could buy a desoldering gun with an vacuüm pump in it. Speeds things up and is far easier.
J.D. Willemsen Yes I know some folk who won't look at a pump but prefer the wick. Snag is, make a mistake and run out of wick and you've gotta problem. 73 from Olde Englande.
Got it there om. Moved to Tennessee. and my shack took a direct hit. kilo bucks of radio rendered null. To keep my hand in the chase I bought kits and assembled such. Qrp? Member the hobo at the hock shop. He found a battered violin. payed for it walked out and played exquisite music. Like qrp it's not somuch the instrument but the player. Best wire (wire) best operation (you) and solid concentration 73 de kv4li. (Tentec, kanga, and a host of others put me back on the air) and the education recived from South Eastern signal school ft Gordon ga .
For surface mounted de-soldering use a heated air-gun station. You can adjust the temperature and the air flow. They also come with different front nozzles. I use the BEST BST-863 1200 Watt 110V/220v Rework Station that got from Banggood.com (see the many RUclips Videos about this product). In addition, they can be used to shrink heat-shrink tubing for your projects. For thru-hole de-soldering you need a vacuum de-soldering station. These stations include a vacuum pump as well as a solder tip with various size holes in each tip. There are many of these on AliExpress, EBay, and Bandgood that do not cost a lot of money. Trying to use the de-soldering solder tool that you arm by pushing back on the unit and then releasing it, is a waste of time. In today's market, the thru-hole de-soldering stations do not cost much. Again, search on RUclips for various reviews on these products as well. I hope this helps. I love your videos, keep up the great work. 73
Excellent video, but to be honest watching the sections when the camera is scanning over the radios is difficult! Would be better to have the camera on a tripod and stationary! Anyway, thanks for sharing!
dave love the video. could you also do something if possible about listening kits only because here in the Netherlands hams have to pay yearly to be a licensed radiotransmitting amateur. so no transceivers for me.
J.D. Willemsen yeah really not that much unless if you consider that 31 euros is about 30 loafs of bread and a year is 52 weeks. Plus it should be free because its something that still today advances technology and if there ever was a emegency where all those nice hightech failure prone comunication equipement for the emergency services fails the hams could help out just like they do in the usa.
Get some scrap boards from your junk drawer or from a swap meet and practice de-soldering. My two main methods are to use a solder sucker and copper braid when necessary.
What are you using for desoldering? Pump or braid? I presume you're still using 60/40 solder. I've had mixed results desoldering. Good clean braid is important. Don't reuse even if it looks clean.
I'm really interested in HF data modes more than CW or voice. I've built a U3S but it doesn't seem to be working- but it's my only HF radio, so I can't debug it much.
The U3S is designed as a beacon rather than a transceiver. Mine puts out a quarter watt, which is QRPpp...very low power. I run it on WSPR pretty much all the time. I also have the receiver module, but don't have a computer to dedicate to it. I want to hook a Raspberry Pi so it can receive WSPR and send reports to WSPRnet. I would recommend you get something with a bit more power that's really designed around the idea of being a transceiver.
David Casler I like the idea of a Pi for it, though the U3S doesn't have a communications interface. I should show my WSPR data collection page to you sometime. Been trying to put the data in a different format than WSPRnet. Also, have a basic 'scope on order, hopefully I can diagnose my U3S with that.
I was able to get Extra on the first try remembering from Navy & college years ago. I got QRP because it was cheap. (MFJ9200) You mention parts of bands that Techs can use. I suspect that all, including myself which am not a Technician can use those parts but they can only use them. My sending is slow while my receiving is very slow so in this respect (besides knowledge) I am very new.If you don't mind, a friend gave me a Yaesu FT101ee that worked but I don't know if I broke it. (Blown fuse but no smell - that's good) What can I use to clean the contacts (again that's cheap)?73 de Gregg Weber AG7MW
Go to Ace hardware or something similar and find the DeOxit spray, which will do the job. Ask a sales person if they have something that's equivalent that's less expensive. The DeOxit D5 is the gold standard for contact cleaning.
Gregg Weber. Wow.. That's famous name. Dry cleaning will do. Even used spirit blagged from some engineer who's changed the spirit at a laundromat might give you 1/2 a pint. The used stuff gets filtered and used again but even the dirty stuff works with a tiny artist's brush.. Keep windows open if using it for anything big. Otherwise WD40 is fine but getting a tiny squirt isn't easy. 73 G3NBY
Gregg Weber Hi Friend. Well first, I have a really favo(u)rite nephew called Gregg. Also as a jazz musician (Clarinet and saxes) who started playing classical music, I played some hard-work stuff by a guy called Carl Maria von Weber. The VON makes it very posh, very high class. German or Austrian, I think. Weber is pronounced Vayberr in German and this rather clever guy married the sister of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. She was called Nannerl so because US is populated by many EU refugees from very troubled times in Europe, you may well come from very noble stock! You might find it interesting to investigate although some searches come to an abrupt end at Ellis Island in New York where immigrants were cleared and registered straight off the ships. Sorry to have bored you if it's not your thing. I am very interested in your callsign AG7M. It's very short. Never heard of AG prefix nor such a short suffix M. Is it a special call for CW contesting? Regards Gregg..73 and BTU...back to you de G3NBY. You'll find me on QRZ.com
I used to have no problem with desoldering but in recent years, I bought a few complete soldering kits which include a cheapo solder pump. They are indeed cheapo. That's how my probs started.You must have decent suction AND a decent quality nozzle in a variety of sizes. In other words some pumps ain't so good. You must have one that sucks and not in the American sense! American: "My solder pumps sucks!" Brit: "Yes.. It should do!" That's how my probs started. I'm now looking for a more suitable pump. In addition, make sure that flux is present to prevent the solder from being "stickie: Often, when the component is out , a small amount of solder half obscures the hole. If some flux is present, simply applying the iron to the track nearby the partially closed hole will cause the surplus to flow onto the track and open up the hole completely. With a multi pinned component to come out, use the pump and you might get 95 % of the solder away. Challenge that pin with a terminal screwdriver. That little 5% (2%?) may be holding the pin but yields with some light persuasion from the screwdriver. When it does, consolidate the release by touching the track very close and the excess solder may flow on to the track to clear the hole. Any other excess on the released pin will re distribute itself on that pin if you touch just the pin with the iron. Make sure that you can see the released pin move freely in its hole, using your screwdriver. When they ALL 'wiggle' like a loose tooth, the component will lift out. Some success can be had with desolder braid which will draw away the molten solder by capillary action. Again flux (usually inside the braid) and an inquisitive small screwdriver will free the most persistent pins. When a section of the braid has coaxed some solder away, move along to the next (very close) spot of virgin braid. Don't get too enthusiastic and hold the braid too near the job. Heat comes up the copper braid and you may find that you can't play the violin for a week! Solder sucker...Keep it empty and the washer inside free from bits which creep under the edge of the washer and wreck the seal. About minus 20 dBs of light oil on the washer will make the seal better and if you trigger it with a thumb over the nozzle, the seal should be enough to stop the plunger from getting back to the home position. I have a heated solder pump like an iron but with a nozzle instead of the bit. Works hunkeydory BUT some idiot of a designer forgot to make any provision to empty the chamber. "Ah..So that's why the stroke of the pump is getting shorter and shorter!" 73 de G3NBY R at QRZ.com Greatly enjoyed your 5 & 9 PLUS videos. Will watch you now that I've found you! again 73 !
Re. de-soldering as with anything else "practice makes perfect". If you can find some junk circuit boards to practice on that may be a good way to learn the technique. BTW, I have decoded your QRPp WSPR signal here in South Texas a few times. 73, N0IJK/5.
Great video on QRP Dave. I have an interest in QRP operation, however being a new ham more than one person has suggested to stay away until I get more experience. My reasoning for wanting to get into QRP is due to the fact I spend quite a bit of time camping in remote areas. I feel QRP would be a way to enjoy the hobby without lugging a large amount of gear around. 73 K0RGH
For desoldering invest in one of those vacuum desolder tools the electric ones not the manual ones. With the manual ones you have to be super quick and it takes many tries even with practice. Even with desolder braid covered in flux and manual desolder sucker there is only so much you can do. One way I clear through holes that cant be wicked or solder sucked out is to heat up the pad to 800'F then blast it with compressed air. You need the higher temps to give you time to hit it with the air which also cools it down instantly. Obviously you should always be adding excessive new solder and extra flux to the part before you desolder it. Desoldering sucks without the vacuum machine very tedious and limiting. Also you are going to burn up alot of parts doing it manually.
Any major brand like hayco will make them. You can also get the chinese knock offs that are actually descent. I havent bought one yet but I'm pretty good with desoldering. "mrcarlsonslab" on you tube has a video and if you haven't found his channel its right up your alley.
That's the bad thing about kit building nowadays... parts go obsolete, you are forced to do surface mounting, etc. Is it any wonder why SDR is so popular!
That's exactly where I got the word. It popped into my head because I've been reading a book about WWII clandestine efforts. The book says that the Intrepid guy was never actually called that and was generally incompetent. I guess everyone has their favorites!
Cb is qrp. But always frowned upon "chicken band". Qro is also. Go figure. But I like qro. Sometimes that (skip land) can only be reached with power. When it's easier to work conditions.
Dave, I've been an electronics technician for a few years. You fly me out to Colorado, I'd be happy to do a video on training you in desoldering with basic hand tools ;) Love your videos, thanks for all you do. 73 from AC9TW
Dave, find yourself some discarded double-sided through-hole plated junk PCB's and start practicing! That's the way I learned to de-solder components. Practice, practice, practice! You'll be a pro in no time :)
Get a Hakko 808 or Hakko FR-300 desoldering gun and you'll never worry about desoldering again. You just put it on the pin and pull the trigger. Easy. Expensive? Sure, but so are all the radios you buy. I can desolder a 40 pin chip in under a minute with it, and the board is absolutely clean afterwards. The time it saves is worth the price.
I've found a knob for the 1/4 inch shaft, and plan to cut it with my Dremmel tool. The other knob has a narrower shaft, and I haven't found a knob for it yet. I was going to cut both shafts at the same time.
I'm sure you have heard of using Desoldering braid (wick) ,which isn't as slick or high tech as some techniques but it's just soldering in reverse as the braid/wick is more absorbent to solider so the the solider flow to it. you most likely need to order it on Amazon due to the demise of Radio shack. here is quick video showing it in action. well good luck 73s KN4ACE ruclips.net/video/AcbezX8TrOU/видео.html
You need to watch a guys channel on YT called " Northridge Fix", but make sure you have a LOT of flux on your bench! You'll see what I mean! Take care and thank you.
De-soldering! Dave, I can't solder to save my life and I am not stretching that. I will melt the board or plastic in coax before I ever get solder to flow. The only thing I can do to make something half work is to heat the solder itself which is never right. It isn't just this. I can't work with my hands to do anything.
CD S, outstanding observation! I would hasten to add "..and don't like building radios and equipment because one is a check writing appliance operator".
Intrepid? One must be intrepid? I love your videos, Dave but your opening in this one came across as a touch smug. My mother used to say, "there's a lid for every pot." A lot of HAMs need to think like that i.e., a mode for every operator. Let QRPs be QRPs. Let Kilowatt slammers be...whatever they want to be called. There's no one way or right way. Live long and propagate. Now if we could just do something about all these Baofeng geeks on DMR...
The word "Intrepid" came to mind because I've been reading a book about WWII clandestine activities. I realize it's a stretch! My big secret is my CW skills have deteriorated from a pretty solid 20 wpm 40 years ago to about 10 at best now. I need to follow my own advice and get on the air! As to your main point, you're absolutely right! Ham radio is a hobby full of hobbies. 73
I understand Einstein's principles, but have no luck with tensors. In all my math and engineering, tensors are a footnote. The best way to learn CW is to just get on the air, perhaps with a friend. There's nothing like reality to really engage the brain.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
At 17:34, you mention the price of the QRP Labs QCX: 5W CW Transceiver includes postage. At the time of writing this, there is a $6.30 international shipping charge, at least to my QTH in Iowa. Not a deal-breaker by any means, but just wanted to point that out for accuracy.
EDIT: I did check to see if alternative shipping methods existed in the checkout process, but was unable to find anything outside of the default International Shipping option. I'm thinking Hans is taking steps to decrease the ship times somehow.
ARGH! Right you are! I even went back to my own order to look. The shipping charge is US$6.30. My apologies for the mistake. I'll correct this in a future video. Good catch!
No need to apologize, Dave. I'm glad I could help!
Dave, your delivery is becoming more and more entertaining as well as informative. Keep up the great work. We appreciate you. As to desoldering, I felt your pain until I purchased a Hakko FR300. I recapped a Kenwood TS-830 with it. A pure pleasure to use. With all the kit building you do, it is a must have in the shack. Worth every penny.
Thanks for the tip. I'll look at it closely.
I ordered one.
Dave, Great! Maybe you can do a show on it.
Last Friday, I was able to hold a conversation with another operator, who was in Indiana and I'm in north North Dakota, all on a legal CB setup with all the powerful solar activity we've been having. 4 watts AM, 900-1,000 miles away, and he said I was coming in 9db by his transceiver's meter. I know I outta be using my Ham license more, but 11meter CB legal operation is technical QRP fun work. And like you say, in contacts like that, it feels like magic.
Thanks for the advice in your videos to do these kinds of things!
Another great video Dave. My first and so far only HF transceiver is a BITX40. I am more interested in building and tinkering than fighting with cranky old men yelling into $5000 toasters that they know nothing about. As for desoldering, a cheap ebay vacuum desoldering pump made a huge difference for me. Keep up the great work.
It is great pity that the Bitx40 is not available. It w as the sort of tcvr that could be changed and fooled about with because it came working (mostly) and did not cost that much to start with. TE Fidler
To be honest. When I get old. I wouldnt mind yelling or pounding brass into some $5000 toasters.
o and dave having a solder pump helps with desoldering. I don't know if you have on already but before I had one desoldering was hell. now I have a manual pump real cheap made from plastic sold by Velleman. you arm it and then take your soldering iron at the about 275 c for a 40-watt station is what I do and when I see the solder start to become liquid I put the pump right next to the iron and on the board and trigger the suction. then i remove the iron to get the other contact then most times its free and if the solder takes to long to get liquid i let the part cool a bit and pump up the temp so that the time on the component is as short as you can make it.
Hi Dave. I do enjoy your videos so keep them coming. Here is a couple things about desoldering. Generally unless you goof up and solder in the wrong part you are not trying to save it. The important thing is to save the board from being damaged (too much). So if I am replacing a part like a leaded IC I will use a pair of cutters and cut all of the pins off the body of the part, then use an iron with tweezers to remove the pins out of the holes. Mostly the removing the pin will remove most of the solder from the hole. But for the stubborn ones I use both a braid and a hand held suction pump. Depending on the application (or what I feel like) I will use one or the other or perhaps both. One thing to remember is to get solder out of a plated hole you need to get some heat into it. So sometimes after using the braid or pump has not cleared out the hole I will apply more solder and try again. Try not to rely on the copper on the board to conduct the heat into the hole as you are more likely to damage the board that way. So keep trying as I assure you learning to desolder is much easier than learning CW!
73, Jim WO7V
Thanks for the tips!
I actually ordered the QRP Labs CW model last month even though I do not know Morse Code. Yet. I figure this will be a great motivator and I am learning while I wait delivery. I second the use of solder wick and agree that the secret is to add more solder prior to laying the wick down. Good video Dave and good luck with the solder work.
I always get a shocked reaction when I mention that I can talk to someone 5000km away using a basic thin wire and less power than it takes to charge an iPhone. Great video!
Great video, Dave! You can get a desoldering station on amazon for a little under US$150. It might sound like a lot, but it's so much easier than using a "solder sucker" and braid, that it made it worth it to me. Most of these have temp control and use a little vacuum pump. Nice to have if you're like me and build a lot of kits. 73 - NB9T
Thanks Dave. Your videos is always excellent and informative.
David thanks for your great informative videos, i think you have learnt from every video, but this is the first(hope the last) video that makes me very move sick. Today i go for my novice ham licence in the Netherlands, fingers crossed. 73
Dave, to inform you: I have done my test for novice netherlands and passed 4/40
Congratulations!
@@rijkvalkenburg9120 well done! ka0use
My issue some qRP kits, like the QCX transceiver the receiver is usually marginal at best. The listener of the qRP signal is the one the suffers the most.
6:25 I keep a mono to stereo jack plug converter handy for these circumstances.
great video as usual Dave!
Desoldering: First, there are manual 'solder suckers' which is a syringe, a seal with a spring and a trigger. The trick to these is to put the nozzle against the board on ONE EDGE and leave room for air to flow around the molten solder and suck it into the syringe,. A little practice and you'll be sucking those nodes clean as a whistle. Second, there are the power vacuum soldering chamber which uses a vacuum to clean up all the soft solder, It's the easiest to use. Good luck 73's Mel
Dave, that was 3 watts *input* to your final. You were working with less than two watts into the antenna. I built an HW8 back in the day and it was doing about 3/4 watt on 15 meters. OK... 14:30 and on the Camera work literally gave me motion sickness and that NEVER happens to me....
You're right--back then everything was measured on input power. Regarding my camera work, my hands don't hold very still. I was trying to take video with one hand while using the other to point things out, and that really emphasizes the tremor. I'll have to think on another way. My wife, KBØVWW, has handled the camera from time to time, and she's steady as a rock (in more than one way!). I'll have to persuade her to take over the handheld camera chores.
Dave, you may recommend that new hams try QRO contacts before QRP. I can see your reasoning for that. Many older hams, when I began, suggested that wait until I could afford a more powerful rig before working HF. I, like you, began my ham HF work on QRP because my first rig was a QRP rig. Costing less than $200 in kit form with WARC Bands I got on the air with my Heathkit HW-9 and fell in love with QRP. The challenge of working contacts was strong enough for me to not become discouraged. I worked Stateside and many European contacts on one way and two way QRP contacts. I was having a ball. I didn't begin using QRO until I began contesting with groups of other hams. Now I enjoy a mixture of both QRP and QRO CW contacts. Still liking your videos Dave.
QRP on CW does pretty well. I just finished another QRP rig, the QRP-Labs QCX. Had the first QSO this morning.
PS...I hope you still have that HW-9. Classic radio!
Of the many kits I am assembling now the QCX is one of them. I have taken a break from toroid winding. I have watched other reviews on this rig, but waiting to hear your review as well.
I do. It was my first rig. Along the way I picked up the HW-7 and HW-8 at the FDIM at Dayton Hamvention Vendor's Night (that's vendor's night at the hotel/motel where the FDIM is held). I haven't stayed in the same motel since ARCI moved from Miamisburg to Fairborn, Ohio. All 3 HW's work. I am considering doing many of the mod's to the HW-9 that DeMaw, Bryce and others have recommended over the years.
Hi Dave, if your local stores don't have mono accessories, check out Ebay. I have gotten mono accessory, and extension cables, as well as stereo to mono adapters to use headphones with my 35yr old Azden PCS 5000 EXT. Speaker jack at the back of the radio during my local Technet. And as for the desoldering, you are not alone. But I do have good success with using an compressed air gun with a medium needle type nozzle. I find this best when bulk desoldering. The compressed air can be messy at times, but if you prepare for the work, and you want to do it, it will be worth it. If you're blowin at low angle across the solder joint it should blow away the solder, and syphon out the solder down in the through hole plating. If you put some masking tape next the part to be extracted, the tape will catch and protect from flying metal spray. If through hole parts (solder) won't come out of the hole. Try poking a component cutoff lead or another kind of wire, heat it up and poke it through the hole wicking that solder up as you go through. Holding up the board and blowing out the hole from one side while heating the other side, is a good way to clear the hole after others have failed. Compressed air is messy and is better for bulk desoldering and getting tough with through holes that won't empty. Sometime try asking someone else not in the field of interest how they would fix this. Thanks Dave.
Whadda ya think about some more extra class radio math lessons? Hint, hint, wink, wink.
Thanks for the tips! Regarding the math, I'll put that on the list of future topics. 73
ive worked alot of countries on qrp from my location here in the uk, my best being 2 watts to new york city, with a 5,5 report, and brazil on 5 watts, no fun using high power.
I had a lot of fun with an HW-7 in the early 1980s .. best DX northern UK to New York on 14 MHz cw. Worked also asiatic Russia and all over Europe.
The selection of iron makes a vast difference in rework capabilities. I thought I had the best, a Weller W60P, 100 watt hog leg, Radio Shack 64-2060B De soldering Iron, and solder wick. It was a pain, resulting in a unacceptable quantity of damaged circuit boards and parts. I started using a Hakko FX-888D (temperature controlled iron) and what a difference. Yes the solder wick still worked, but now the spring loaded solder sucker had excellent results. Circuit boards and parts looked unscathed. Also a fine drill bit (Dremel) in a jewelers Pentalobe seems to selectively drill out the soft solder, great for clearing plate through holes.
One thing about new hams NOT trying QRP for their first radio... I completely agree with this. They should not, it's highly frustrating and foreboding to a novice. But, unfortunately, in the UK, new hams are restricted to QRP by their licence. Foundation Licence in the UK only allows 10 W PEP
How do you learn to solder/desolder? The same way you get to Carnegie Hall - practice, practice, practice!
Thanks for advocating that new hams don't frustrate themselves by starting out with a QRP rig. 100 watts is much more forgiving of the common mistakes we all make when beginning. Once you build up the skills to make tough contacts, then you will be able to use and enjoy QRP.
I once belonged to a club that ran a QRP Field Day every year. We went after those high point value QSOs, but after a while, we lost people. Only a few were able to sit down and make any quantity of contacts. We were losing the interest of the bulk of the group. Even though I was an avid QRPer and contester, I advocated to switch to 100 watt class and keep more of the club involved.
I agree.
It is usually easier to use a QRP rig for SOTA and POTA.
Dave get some outer braid off some rg58 put some lako flux on it get rid of access it will suck up loads of solder. Very good video
I prefer using solder braid to desolder. It's a small copper braid with flux in it, so you can put it over the joint in question then apply heat with the iron. It drinks up the solder, and the component almost falls out.
The key is the flux. For a long time I tried braid without success, but it turned out to merely be so old the flux had dried out. I put some fresh flux on the braid and it works like a charm.
I still prefer solder wick, but you have to first add some new solder to the point you want to desolder.
And then use the solderwick to desolder. Afterwards you still might need to touch it with an solder iron because there is the tinyest amount of solder holding the part.
Ore you could buy a desoldering gun with an vacuüm pump in it.
Speeds things up and is far easier.
J.D. Willemsen
Yes I know some folk who won't look at a pump but prefer the wick.
Snag is, make a mistake and run out of wick and you've gotta problem.
73 from Olde Englande.
Solder wick it first then two irons and just slide the part over.
Got it there om. Moved to Tennessee. and my shack took a direct hit. kilo bucks of radio rendered null. To keep my hand in the chase I bought kits and assembled such. Qrp? Member the hobo at the hock shop. He found a battered violin. payed for it walked out and played exquisite music. Like qrp it's not somuch the instrument but the player. Best wire (wire) best operation (you) and solid concentration 73 de kv4li. (Tentec, kanga, and a host of others put me back on the air) and the education recived from South Eastern signal school ft Gordon ga .
Dave, to clean the hole out when desoldering use a round tooth pick. Heat the pad and stick the tooth pick in. A large needle works also. AB1ZI
Thanks for the tip!
If the solder isn't melting well, add more solder. Then it all will melt and you can suction or braid it. Counterintuitive, but it works.
Thanks for the tip!
For surface mounted de-soldering use a heated air-gun station. You can adjust the temperature and the air flow. They also come with different front nozzles. I use the BEST BST-863 1200 Watt 110V/220v Rework Station that got from Banggood.com (see the many RUclips Videos about this product). In addition, they can be used to shrink heat-shrink tubing for your projects. For thru-hole de-soldering you need a vacuum de-soldering station. These stations include a vacuum pump as well as a solder tip with various size holes in each tip. There are many of these on AliExpress, EBay, and Bandgood that do not cost a lot of money. Trying to use the de-soldering solder tool that you arm by pushing back on the unit and then releasing it, is a waste of time. In today's market, the thru-hole de-soldering stations do not cost much. Again, search on RUclips for various reviews on these products as well. I hope this helps. I love your videos, keep up the great work. 73
No amount of power can "get through" if there's simply no path for propagation.
Excellent video, but to be honest watching the sections when the camera is scanning over the radios is difficult! Would be better to have the camera on a tripod and stationary! Anyway, thanks for sharing!
Please could you do a video on the alignment process with the oscilloscope..
Thanks for the topic suggestion. I'll add it to the list.
dave love the video. could you also do something if possible about listening kits only because here in the Netherlands hams have to pay yearly to be a licensed radiotransmitting amateur. so no transceivers for me.
highkicker11 This fee isn’t really that expensive. €31,- for a year.
J.D. Willemsen yeah really not that much unless if you consider that 31 euros is about 30 loafs of bread and a year is 52 weeks. Plus it should be free because its something that still today advances technology and if there ever was a emegency where all those nice hightech failure prone comunication equipement for the emergency services fails the hams could help out just like they do in the usa.
Dale Myers could not agree more but sadly born here and dont have the posibilty to leave.
have you looked into modding an rtl-sdr dongle for direct sampling? for the price of a few pints you could be set.
yeah I have a RTL SDR modded it somewhat already but the direct sampling is not doing it for far for me.
My first HF radio was a BITX-40 SSB running JT-65 and WSPR 5Watts 73 KA7HAK
Sounds like a great use of the BITX-40. I'll have to give it a try.
QRP rig is usually easier for SOTA and POTA. I have been using about 40 watts from my home with a Magnetic Loop antenna on the wall next to me.
Get some scrap boards from your junk drawer or from a swap meet and practice de-soldering. My two main methods are to use a solder sucker and copper braid when necessary.
Good suggestion. Thanks!
my idea, too- just 2 years later!
What are you using for desoldering? Pump or braid? I presume you're still using 60/40 solder. I've had mixed results desoldering. Good clean braid is important. Don't reuse even if it looks clean.
I'm really interested in HF data modes more than CW or voice. I've built a U3S but it doesn't seem to be working- but it's my only HF radio, so I can't debug it much.
The U3S is designed as a beacon rather than a transceiver. Mine puts out a quarter watt, which is QRPpp...very low power. I run it on WSPR pretty much all the time. I also have the receiver module, but don't have a computer to dedicate to it. I want to hook a Raspberry Pi so it can receive WSPR and send reports to WSPRnet. I would recommend you get something with a bit more power that's really designed around the idea of being a transceiver.
David Casler I like the idea of a Pi for it, though the U3S doesn't have a communications interface. I should show my WSPR data collection page to you sometime. Been trying to put the data in a different format than WSPRnet. Also, have a basic 'scope on order, hopefully I can diagnose my U3S with that.
And yes, I need a real transciever. I'm just saying that starting with the U3S is not great because I don't get a feedback loop on what is wrong.
I was able to get Extra on the first try remembering from Navy & college years ago. I got QRP because it was cheap. (MFJ9200)
You mention parts of bands that Techs can use. I suspect that all, including myself which am not a Technician can use those parts but they can only use them. My sending is slow while my receiving is very slow so in this respect (besides knowledge) I am very new.If you don't mind, a friend gave me a Yaesu FT101ee that worked but I don't know if I broke it. (Blown fuse but no smell - that's good) What can I use to clean the contacts (again that's cheap)?73 de Gregg Weber AG7MW
Go to Ace hardware or something similar and find the DeOxit spray, which will do the job. Ask a sales person if they have something that's equivalent that's less expensive. The DeOxit D5 is the gold standard for contact cleaning.
Thanks.I just remembered. It hasn't been long but is there a show scheduled where you run an antenna analyzer to a cable/antenna to test the cable?
Gregg Weber.
Wow.. That's famous name.
Dry cleaning will do. Even used spirit blagged from some engineer who's changed the spirit at a laundromat might give you 1/2 a pint. The used stuff gets filtered and used again but even the dirty stuff works with a tiny artist's brush.. Keep windows open if using it for anything big.
Otherwise WD40 is fine but getting a tiny squirt isn't easy.
73 G3NBY
I'm not famous. Must be someone else named Gregg Weber. I know of one who is a Square Dance Caller. Thanks for the info.73 AG7M
Gregg Weber
Hi Friend.
Well first, I have a really favo(u)rite nephew called Gregg.
Also as a jazz musician (Clarinet and saxes) who started playing classical music, I played some hard-work stuff by a guy called Carl Maria von Weber. The VON makes it very posh, very high class. German or Austrian, I think.
Weber is pronounced Vayberr in German and this rather clever guy married the sister of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. She was called Nannerl so because US is populated by many EU refugees from very troubled times in Europe, you may well come from very noble stock!
You might find it interesting to investigate although some searches come to an abrupt end at Ellis Island in New York where immigrants were cleared and registered straight off the ships.
Sorry to have bored you if it's not your thing.
I am very interested in your callsign AG7M. It's very short. Never heard of AG prefix nor such a short suffix M. Is it a special call for CW contesting?
Regards Gregg..73 and BTU...back to you de G3NBY.
You'll find me on QRZ.com
I used to have no problem with desoldering but in recent years, I bought a few complete soldering kits which include a cheapo solder pump. They are indeed cheapo. That's how my probs started.You must have decent suction AND a decent quality nozzle in a variety of sizes. In other words some pumps ain't so good. You must have one that sucks and not in the American sense!
American: "My solder pumps sucks!"
Brit: "Yes.. It should do!"
That's how my probs started. I'm now looking for a more suitable pump.
In addition, make sure that flux is present to prevent the solder from being "stickie:
Often, when the component is out , a small amount of solder half obscures the hole.
If some flux is present, simply applying the iron to the track nearby the partially closed hole
will cause the surplus to flow onto the track and open up the hole completely.
With a multi pinned component to come out, use the pump and you might get 95 % of the solder away. Challenge that pin with a terminal screwdriver. That little 5% (2%?) may be holding the pin but yields with some light persuasion from the screwdriver. When it does, consolidate the release by touching the track very close and the excess solder may flow on to the track to clear the hole. Any other excess on the released pin will re distribute itself on that pin if you touch just the pin with the iron. Make sure that you can see the released pin move freely in its hole, using your screwdriver. When they ALL 'wiggle' like a loose tooth, the component will lift out.
Some success can be had with desolder braid which will draw away the molten solder by
capillary action. Again flux (usually inside the braid) and an inquisitive small screwdriver will free the most persistent pins. When a section of the braid has coaxed some solder away, move along to the next (very close) spot of virgin braid. Don't get too enthusiastic and hold the braid too near the job. Heat comes up the copper braid and you may find that you can't play the violin for a week!
Solder sucker...Keep it empty and the washer inside free from bits which creep under the edge of the washer and wreck the seal. About minus 20 dBs of light oil on the washer will make the seal better and if you trigger it with a thumb over the nozzle, the seal should be enough to stop the plunger from getting back to the home position.
I have a heated solder pump like an iron but with a nozzle instead of the bit. Works hunkeydory BUT some idiot of a designer forgot to make any provision to empty the chamber. "Ah..So that's why the stroke of the pump is getting shorter and shorter!"
73 de G3NBY R at QRZ.com
Greatly enjoyed your 5 & 9 PLUS videos. Will watch you now that I've found you!
again 73
!
Thanks for the tips.
Re. de-soldering as with anything else "practice makes perfect". If you can find some junk circuit boards to practice on that may be a good way to learn the technique. BTW, I have decoded your QRPp WSPR signal here in South Texas a few times. 73, N0IJK/5.
Yep, I've been learning about desoldering. And my WSPR signal is only a quarter watt to an indoor Chamelian loop.
Thanks for the video !
What's on the shirt you're wearing in this video? I'm guessing a University with a mining program. Thanks for all your great content. 73. W0TJV
Great video on QRP Dave. I have an interest in QRP operation, however being a new ham more than one person has suggested to stay away until I get more experience. My reasoning for wanting to get into QRP is due to the fact I spend quite a bit of time camping in remote areas. I feel QRP would be a way to enjoy the hobby without lugging a large amount of gear around. 73 K0RGH
QRP with CW is actually fairly effective. With radios like the QRP Labs QCX at only $49, it doesn't cost much to get into.
For desoldering invest in one of those vacuum desolder tools the electric ones not the manual ones. With the manual ones you have to be super quick and it takes many tries even with practice. Even with desolder braid covered in flux and manual desolder sucker there is only so much you can do. One way I clear through holes that cant be wicked or solder sucked out is to heat up the pad to 800'F then blast it with compressed air. You need the higher temps to give you time to hit it with the air which also cools it down instantly. Obviously you should always be adding excessive new solder and extra flux to the part before you desolder it. Desoldering sucks without the vacuum machine very tedious and limiting. Also you are going to burn up alot of parts doing it manually.
Not to mention delaminating circuit board traces. I'll look around on Amazon for an electric sucker. If you have a link, I'd enjoy taking a look.
Any major brand like hayco will make them. You can also get the chinese knock offs that are actually descent. I havent bought one yet but I'm pretty good with desoldering. "mrcarlsonslab" on you tube has a video and if you haven't found his channel its right up your alley.
FB, very nice report! I love QRP!
73 de PY1ZB
That's the bad thing about kit building nowadays... parts go obsolete, you are forced to do surface mounting, etc.
Is it any wonder why SDR is so popular!
Dave, when is the walking man going to have a ht in his hand?
Working on it!
A man called Intrepid.
I recommend it.
That's exactly where I got the word. It popped into my head because I've been reading a book about WWII clandestine efforts. The book says that the Intrepid guy was never actually called that and was generally incompetent. I guess everyone has their favorites!
WW2 history is my favourite reading material.
I guess you can figure out where and how I got the call sign ending in SOE.
Cb is qrp. But always frowned upon "chicken band". Qro is also. Go figure. But I like qro. Sometimes that (skip land) can only be reached with power. When it's easier to work conditions.
Dave, I've been an electronics technician for a few years. You fly me out to Colorado, I'd be happy to do a video on training you in desoldering with basic hand tools ;) Love your videos, thanks for all you do. 73 from AC9TW
I've gained some practice since, plus some better tooling.
Dave, find yourself some discarded double-sided through-hole plated junk PCB's and start practicing! That's the way I learned to de-solder components. Practice, practice, practice! You'll be a pro in no time :)
Having good equipment helps too!
Get a Hakko 808 or Hakko FR-300 desoldering gun and you'll never worry about desoldering again. You just put it on the pin and pull the trigger. Easy. Expensive? Sure, but so are all the radios you buy. I can desolder a 40 pin chip in under a minute with it, and the board is absolutely clean afterwards. The time it saves is worth the price.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I just ordered one.
Hakko FR-301 Desoldering Tool
I have the FR-300.
Dave you cant cut the shafts shorter on the bits 40 please please do come on Dave kg6mn
I've found a knob for the 1/4 inch shaft, and plan to cut it with my Dremmel tool. The other knob has a narrower shaft, and I haven't found a knob for it yet. I was going to cut both shafts at the same time.
I'm sure you have heard of using Desoldering braid (wick) ,which isn't as slick or high tech as some techniques but it's just soldering in reverse as the braid/wick is more absorbent to solider so the the solider flow to it. you most likely need to order it on Amazon due to the demise of Radio shack. here is quick video showing it in action. well good luck 73s KN4ACE
ruclips.net/video/AcbezX8TrOU/видео.html
I've been told you can make braid by soaking stranded copper in liquid flux
Life's too short for QRp
You need to watch a guys channel on YT called " Northridge Fix", but make sure you have a LOT of flux on your bench! You'll see what I mean!
Take care and thank you.
De-soldering! Dave, I can't solder to save my life and I am not stretching that. I will melt the board or plastic in coax before I ever get solder to flow. The only thing I can do to make something half work is to heat the solder itself which is never right. It isn't just this. I can't work with my hands to do anything.
Life is too short for QRP if you have the attention span of a 3 year old
CD S, outstanding observation! I would hasten to add "..and don't like building radios and equipment because one is a check writing appliance operator".
Intrepid? One must be intrepid? I love your videos, Dave but your opening in this one came across as a touch smug. My mother used to say, "there's a lid for every pot." A lot of HAMs need to think like that i.e., a mode for every operator. Let QRPs be QRPs. Let Kilowatt slammers be...whatever they want to be called. There's no one way or right way. Live long and propagate. Now if we could just do something about all these Baofeng geeks on DMR...
The word "Intrepid" came to mind because I've been reading a book about WWII clandestine activities. I realize it's a stretch! My big secret is my CW skills have deteriorated from a pretty solid 20 wpm 40 years ago to about 10 at best now. I need to follow my own advice and get on the air! As to your main point, you're absolutely right! Ham radio is a hobby full of hobbies. 73
LOL!
Interesting video, but your camera shake is nauseating.
I understand Einstein. I don't have any comprehension of cw even after years of study.
I understand Einstein's principles, but have no luck with tensors. In all my math and engineering, tensors are a footnote. The best way to learn CW is to just get on the air, perhaps with a friend. There's nothing like reality to really engage the brain.