Most folks disagreeing have been ugly about it, so I don't usually respond, but I'll explain. The defoulers are sold for sparkplugs, not your o2 sensors. You have to modify them for the o2 sensor. Even if your state does not require emission tests, federal law (that supercedes state law) makes it illegal to bypass factory emission equipment. 95% of folks that do this and get it to turn off the check engine light won't get caught. If I encourage people to do this, then youtube could pull the video. It would be irresponsible to encourage people to break the law. Several of the big youtube channels have been fined thousands of dollars by the feds for bypassing factory emissions. Do what you want with the information in this video.
@@ktecgarage thank you for the insight. I appreciate that and yes I agree. The fouler i observed was not for spark plugs but called oxygen sensor adaptor at walmart for $9. However, I agree what you are saying. Thank you for the information in general.
It worked for me. 2002 Camry always throwing codes. Replaced the cat twice along with numerous other parts. I spent thousands trying to fix issues. Mechanics would “solve” the problems then a month or two later codes would be back. So I don’t feel bad about doing this. These rules hurt people who can least afford it the hardest. Car runs great, passes the rest of the test. so obviously it’s not polluting more than it should.
@@jeffryblackmon4846that's a fact, it's fooling the computer, not solving the problem. That's what you try to do if you don't have a large sum of money to cough up to get a car that's running fine to pass inspection.
Depends on the application. I put two on my Pontiac Vibe, and it gave me a different code saying that the O2 sensor was not working. When I removed the second one, it worked just fine for several years.
I added two on my Vanderhall, downstream sensor and it worked. When I had them on the upstream it did not work. I also have a new catalytic converter and two new O2 sensors.
It is federally illegal. To detect it is difficult because most states don't have state required inspections/emissions tests. Go see if a legit shop will install a defouler for you or remove/modify your CATS...they won't.
Worked for me for 5 years and 2 Commifornia emissions tests.. FYI: Have several cars in CA and usually do a smog test every year-I have *NEVER* had a tech craw under a car or put it on a lift to look at a sensor..
@@JohnDoe-id9hi i'm in PA aka little Commieforina they do a visual inspection along with emissions. never once have I had a tech or mechanic ask or fail me about my choices of exhaust. as long as the shell of the cat it there I am good to go. they know what's going on but they also know the rules of pass and fail I need a cat, I need o2s I need to have no stored or recent codes
If you previously failed for a bad cat they may look at the cat to see if you replaced it with a CARB approved cat and they may look at the sensor then. But you never know.
Worked on a 98 silverado for me. Its been a year still no cel👍I see a problem with your setup. You have to use 2 defoulers stacked on top of each other. One is drilled out so you can screw in the o2 and the one closest to the exhaust needs to be left unmodified with a small orfice on the end. This limits the exhaust gases that contact the sensor. Some defoulers ive seen have an assortment of different size orfices that you can tune with
I had a cat that was deficient. I bought the "universal" non-fouler that's long, not short. Meaning I didn't have to drill out two short ones and put the together. The O2 sensor threaded into the universal non-fouler, then threaded it into the exhaust pipe. The CE light never came back on and it did run a lot better but not as well as it should. It was only an experiment. I tried one on the side that with the good cat and it made that side run so lean, it discolored the cat heat shield. I installed a new exhaust system with two new cats and it now runs like a champ.
For $170 instead of $2k, I'd take my chances. So long as it passes emissions. I put two Doorman cats on a J35 a few years back and haven't had an issue yet.
@@ktecgarage ... Let me re phrase. You cannot buy the same thing that came on your car from the factory, unless the car is very new. What I am saying..... is you are better off "modifying the output" of the oxygen sensor of your OEM cat, than installing an aftermarket car.
@jasonsprouse2803 Yup! That's why I went the defouler route. Didn't want to take a chance on crappy aftermarket cats. I don't trust them. And on an old car that mite burn oil or isn't tuned 100%, any cat isn't gonna last. Defouler worked for me👍
Absolutely! I went down a deep rabbit hole of spending money to chase problems after buying a $100 cat on amazon for high flow. 1st thing to check is that you properly did a burn-in when you 1st install a non-OE cat, and MAKE SURE THERE ARE ZERO EXHAUST LEAKS!!! Even if they seem minute. It's typically at the crappy flange between the cat and resonator/muffler.
I use two one drilled out 1/2" the other one do nothing...put two drilled one into the stock one and then put the sensor into the the back of that two piece assembly......so you did it wrong....
I've done this a bunch of times. Nissan downstream passenger side on the 3.5 engines is extremely common and a guarantee the code will trip before the car reaches 170K. I am not even a mechanic, and I know all the mechanics tactics. That little part backs the O2 out of the exhaust stream just enough that the sensor will not trip a code. Jeeps are terrible for tripping that code also. .
Because you didn’t do it correctly you have to use both of them one is not enough you have to drill the one and then throw the other one in there too. That’s why you did it incorrectly. I’ve watched quite videos, and seeing people do it incorrectly. You must use both.
@@CharlesLease-ei1ee exactly. I just tested it on mine and used two of them and a small narrow barrel with a medium hole to cause more restriction. The test worked on mine. It sucks to think I would need a new cat when for the last 5 years it has run smooth without issues and it gets great gas mileage. These invisible gasses are a money grab. In Texas they are fixing to do away with the safety inspection portion and just do the emissions. The safety portion is more important. I mean it was meant to check to make sure your brakes, horn, lights and windsheild wipers were working. That is more important than invisible gasses.
It is UNREALIST to "expect" emissions to last more than 100k and to pay the repairs to fall within the emissions. Yes, many cars can do 20yrs and/or 200k, but the standards today are so high and the methods of achieving those standards require a lot. Most cars being manufactured today will end up in the salvage yard by 10yrs/100k because of these standards and the cost of the repairs to meet emissions in the future. It is just a SCAM to get people to buy a new vehicle. There is no reason to build such trash.......Vehicles should last at least 200k or 20 yrs. The amount of pollution that is produced by making a new vehicle is crazy.
@@ktecgarage I hear you and this was not directed at you, but rather the "Guberment" Federal & State and the Automobile Manufacturers.....Yes, we need be "Environmentally Friendly" but they have gone off the deep with Emissions &"Climate Change" and EVs which are a Joke.......Yes, I agree Aftermarket when it is necessary. I try to buy the best value when I buy parts whether that is OEM, Aftermarket or Used. I look at the value/life left of the vehicle, the cost of the part and how long I think that part will last and make a choice in the part. I am not sure if this is still true, but you can not buy Catalytic Converters from the Salvage Yard which to me is the best way to recycle and save money and minimize pollution. I had to replace a cat on 2000 Honda Accord. The cat that was there was already aftermarket and the honey comb glass was all smashed. I am not going to buy a $1500 Honda Cat to go on a $1500 Accord with 300k on it. It is crazy to pay $300 for aftermarket glass one.
@hhhmotorsports9550 2002 Chevy Blazer here, works perfectly! Have 240,000 miles and no Engine light for anything! My cats got stolen and I'll be damned of im going put that much money into a vehicle with that many miles. Especially when it's running strong.
I had a neighbor bring down a Kia Soul with a 2.0 that was showing signs of a plugged cat. converter. I disconnected the exhaust pipe leading into the cat, then took it for a spin. It ran like a scalded cat! Looking in the intake of the cat showed it was very much plugged up. We tried CATACLEAN in the tank. It did improve, but not perfect. I replaced the converter, and it was running perfect again, but now throwing a code. Sent a message to the company, asking for suggestions for a fix? They sent me a spark plug adapter for free. About to install it and see what happens. I'll let you know!
UPDATE: I installed the plug adapter and cleared the code. It lasted a short while and then the code reappeared. At least in this case, the spark plug adapter did not work
I'd be a lot more comfortable with this procedure if you guys on RUclips would show the live data stream for the rear O² sensor before and after installation. As for the open end wrench you used to remove and install your O² sensor, I have a set of various O² sensor sockets. Sometimes they work, sometimes they round off the nut on the O² sensor. These days, I almost always use a pipe wrench to remove and install O² sensors. The pipe wrench grips better, doesn't slip, and round off the nut, and the longer handle gives me more leverage.
I did this on a 98 silverado that it worked on. I didn't look at the live data before but after. It's supposed to be a somewhat flat line reading around half a volt +/-. That's what I read on the scan tool. It's been almost a year still no code. I think some cars have more stringent programming parameters that mite still trip codes tho. Also I don't know if having an intact or gutted cat makes a difference. Also some defoulers have different orfice hole sizes that can be played around with
@@MarcBchannel that passenger side gets real close to the frame rail on the obs and nbs chevys with the non foulers in.. but somehow has just enough clearance as the engineers said well we know their going to do this lets give them just enough room to pull it off but just enough room to ruin their day if the exhaust hangers are out of par.
@Mjphillips77 Figures🤣 I have an OBS with the 5.0. Had plenty of room. The 5.0's merge from the manifolds to a single cat. The 5.7's usually go from the manifolds to 2 cats then merge so there mite be less room.
The more common cause of low efficiency these days is the low quality of replacement cats. Oem cats are getting expensive, people often go after market. The after market cats don’t heat up as well as the OEMs. That’s the difference in a $1300 cat and $200 after market.
yes it will run.. but it run poorly. you will waste a lot of fuel. lets say you had no catalytic converter.. umm a meth head cut it off and you need to get to work.. put in a straight pipe. use 2 non foulers per downstream O2 one drilled out other one not drilled and stacked now the computer will think theres a proper cat in line and you will be good to go with oem fuel milage ya know till pay day rolls around and you can drop a stack on new cats. wink wink you want to get fancy you can take a bit of steel wool and stuff it into the bottom of the non drilled then stack them and it will give the ecm a better reading but it works without doing that step as well.
Hello. The diameter of the beginning of the sensor is 10 mm. The outside diameter of the beginning of the most of the sensor extensions on Walmart is 16 mm. So the sensor suppose to fit without drilling. Do I still need to drill? Is there other reason to drill? TY
My issue is the amount that the shop wants to replace my catalytic converter is probably equal to the value of my car. Not everyone is in a position to pay a huge sum to get a car thats running fine to pass inspection. The government doesnt care about emissions, its all a money game.
2002 ranger 3.0 cats delete..2 oil foulers drilled one stacked the 3 amd truck ran good for 5 mins..lol. check engine light and truck ran like crap mid range..Tryed just 1 same deal..tryed the one i drilled same deal bad idle then..So didnt work for me..❤
Like the author said, you're just slowing down the real reason for the engine check light. I have honda civic I'm using this, and it works. After 5 years now turned out it is the valve's letting too much oil into combustion chambers. And it's not even my fault , honda says legally vitec petrol engine can burn up to 1 l of oil per around 6xx some miles, check your manual for exact mileage. There you have it, you're burning oil into exhaust system slowly killing your honda. But don't get me wrong, yours can be bad piston rings, or something else
You her wonder why some states don't have smog testing stations or require thousand of dollars worth of emissions control stuff on a car like a catalyzed converter that cost $1,200 that are stolen by the millions in the U.S.year after year.
I get the impression he didn't want it to work. It worked for me. I wanted to do it right so I replaced the cat and both sensors and it still failed so I went with the defoulers.
I know folks use things like that, but they are illegal to use in the USA. I'm sure they turn off the engine light, but it doesn't "fix" the car and I'm not encouraging anyone to break the law. Aftermarket cats are fairly cheap, even if they aren't great, but it's the cheap and legal way to go.
@@ktecgarage but we arent trying to *fix* the problem. We want an answer to whether or not this will pass emissions test whether or not its ethical. we're talking about motor vehicles here. not law, not medicine. something that some people need to get from work to home. Also, id suggest re uploading this video but instead STACKING TWO foulers ontop instead of just one. You need to stack two or else there wont be enough space between the sensor and the exhaust fumes in order to trick the computer into thinking it is getting a smooth reading.
All this emissions BS is just that BS. Drive and maintain a old pre-emissions car or one old enough that it don't need this BS test. I could give a rats ass if the car has a check engine light on. My concern is if people on the road have brakes, lights, and good tires. The important things.
@@mkrp4 Bull Shit. That ended when leaded gas did. All the shit in cars and trucks now a days is to make them to expensive to buy and repair. So they can sell more. That is the only reason. Know whether you what to see that or not it's on you. How environmental is it to junk and make new cars? How environmental is all the non recyclable plastic in modern cars? Break out of the Matrix you live in. I have seen way too many cars and truck being scraped because the cost of repairs to make a fuckin light on the dash to go out to pass inspection. Other then the light they are fine.
It didn't work because you drilled out the bottom of the non fouler. You're not supposed to do that. I have a complete brand new exhaust system, manifolds, cat's, all the way to the tailpipe and I get the P0420 & P0430 codes when using winter blend fuel, codes go away with summer blend fuel. Installed these, no more issues.
Rather than just condemn something because "you" don't think it will work, it would be more informative if you showed the live data from the downstream sensor before and after installing the spacer, to back up your claims. As you probably know, a bad convertor will typically register crossover counts similar to the upstream sensor, indicating a failed convertor. In theory, installing the spacer moves the sensor out of the direct exhaust stream, and exhaust gases then tend to pool around the sensor, which buffers the readings.
If they cared about pollution they would still test the exhaust instead of relying solely on computer codes. There have been recalls on bad computers throwing faulty codes, ahem, Honda, but they don't test for that either.
my own experince i used one for 2 yrs in a corolla vvti..its works it turns off light...BUT BE WARNED YOUR CAR WILL HAVE VERY BAD FUEL MILAGE...I TOOK MINE BACK OUT AND MY CAR HAS RETURNED TO NORMAL ..A BLIND MAN COULD SEE THE MILAGE HAS RETURNED TO NORMAL..I BELIVE I LOST COST OF CAT ON UNBURNED FUEL .BIG MISTAKE BY ME ..BE WARNED..
@@ktecgarage yes it screws up the fuel trims if there is a cat still in place. lets take the situation where a meth head steals your cat you need to get to work and only have $100 in the bank account. ya know because willingly removal or punching out a cat is a no no in the US. If installed correctly 2 units per downstream O2 a small amount of steel wool in-between the 2 non foulers simulating a cat will restore the fuel trims to oem
@@ktecgarage I thought the upstream sensor (air/fuel ratio sensor in my case) sent the data back to the ECM and controlled short and long-term fuel trim. I thought the downstream sensor only monitored the effectiveness of the cat. Please explain how the downtream sensor impacts fuel trim.
@@miken4022I believe you are correct. The downstream sensor only tells the ECM if the cats are working. All the fuel air info comes from the upstream.
Unless your vehicle is 0:04 sending a plume of smoke from the exhaust, these emission laws are ridiculous! The amount of dangerous emissions expelled by a vehicle during its final useful lifetime is far less than the emissions and pollution caused by tearing apart, separating and smelting all the steel and components of the already existing and useful paid for vehicle. I miss the days of buying a $300 car with minor issues, spending a few hours and $ for parts. Nice, I'd have a good running beater to drive for a couple of years! Good luck today..
there's only one size to use 18mm. advanced, autozone, oreilys, pepboys they all sell em. here's whats it's called at advanced "Dorman - Help Spark Plug Non-Foulers - 18mm Gasket Seat" 2 in a pack for 12.99 as I just had to buy them lastnight lol if you have a v6 or v8 you are going to need 2 packs a total of 4. 4cyl or inline 6 you only need one pack use entire pack on each downstream o2.
would love to replace my cat but they no longer make mine and the aftermarket ones are junk and the light comes on again anyway so why go through all that bullshit ? and besides my car is over 20 years old so they waive the emissions test anyway , i just want that friggin light off!!!
@@smedleybutler1969 Imagine standing on the north pole and declaring "Canada is Argentina because they're both south of me!!". Do ya see now how idiotic this Red Scare shit is?
You can do the same thing with the oxygen sensor itself. If it's a louvered sensor, take pliers and carefully close up the louvers. If it has holes, you need to make up some thing out of steel that will fit tightly around and seal it off. What you are doing is slowing down the exhaust flow into the oxygen sensor.
think the best solution to pass the smog check is by the following procedure; BUT, if you have a bad cat problem initially preventing you from passing smog check, keep in mind people, your catalytic converter will eventually need to replaced to prevent damage to your engine. This is just a temporary method to try to help pass smog. 1) reset your codes using an obdII 2) remove o2 sensor#2 (Downstream), after cat and maybe clean it while you are at it. 3) install adapter 4) install o2 sensor unto the adapter 5) run your vehicle for 60 miles or more, depending on your vehicle so you can have all onboard monitors ready for smog check & hopefully yo check engine light does not appear. 6) the day/time of your smog check inpection, run your vehicle for at least 4 to 6 miles or more for a warm up. 7) remove o2 sensor (wear gloves & work smart as components will be hot) 8) remove adapter(wear gloves & work smart as components will be hot) as they may visually be inspecting undeneath. 9) re-install o2 sensor without adapter. ( wear gloves & work smart as components will be hot) 10) visit your local smog check station & hopefully it will pass without having the adapter during the test/inspection. Seems like a lot to do but it can be far better than replacing the catalytic converter just to pass smog. Tough times call for desperate measures! Good luck good people ✌🕶🔧
The problem here is price. If the feds mandate that we have to have it on our cars, then they should also pay when it needs to be replaced. Otherwise people will never stop looking for ways around the issue. EDIT: Also I think it's crazy that modifying it like this is illegal when driving around with a check engine light on isn't. Just leave the bad cat in there and enjoy the amber glow on your dashboard. Problem solved lol
Bad idea. The car is in closed loop mode and defaults to slightly rich running which gets poor mileage and can eventually clog the cats. Dont ever drive extended periods with a CEL on.
@@ktecgarage Oh wow I didn't realize the rich condition this would cause while in closed loop. I used Cataclean on mine twice and so far so good. I discovered I had bad spark plugs that probably fouled the CAT. I bought some NGK plugs on Amazon that turned out to be counterfeit and started causing bad misfires after 25-30k miles.
I used some medium stuff between 00 and 1. Between the different OEMs there's no universal standard of what the ECU is programmed to look for as acceptable O2 sensor feedback parameters so a little trial and error is sometimes needed. A scan tool helps too so you can look at a graph of the voltage switch rate compared to the front O2 on the same bank. To much separation form the exhaust flow and it won't switch at all, then the ECU will purposely run very rich looking for a response and generally the car will run like crap. You want a nice lazy switching rate compared to the front O2 which switches pretty fast. If it's a fairly late model car it'll have wide band sensor in the front that will read the whole operating range of AFRs and not just stoich. You'd still want a lazy switch rate on the rear O2s, just nothing to compare it to. Hope that helps @@CONFUCIUS-f2x
This guy done it wrong people he is trying to trick yall to do the right thing ur supposed to stack them or just buy the right adapter offline for this
I've done this a few times . its a cheap fix . and some cars you will have to manually clear the code with your scanner or drive it for a awhile once its reach the permanent code indicator for it to be removed. i just clear it.
thumbs down for being a bootlicker and giving us a "warning" that its illegal. literally no one cares...also it does work if you do it right, you need to use 2 anti foulers
You have to use 2 per o2 sensor on rear bank,and your dead wrong,it most certainly does work without a doubt,do it the right way with 2 per cylinder and get back to us sir
TL:DR - You might not have a bad CAT - it might be cheapo (aka bad) O2 sensors. Buy NTK or OEM sensors (it's worth the extra $). Was down a rabbit hole not being able to get rid of a P0420 on my 2011 JK Wrangler. Ended up replacing the bank 1 O2 sensors with a Chinese brand off Amazon thinking that would fix it - NOPE! ... tested replacement o2 sensors and they were giving off too high 6 ohms across heater element. CEL's for "high-voltage" persisted (NTK & Mopars give off 3.5 ohms). Almost bought new Catalytic convertors (also tried cleaning the cats & even using the spark plug non-fouler trick but CEL's persisted due to cheapo O2 sensors - non-foulers will not work if your cheap sensors are sending incorrect voltages to the PCM). After much research, discovered the JK is super sensitive to o2 sensors. Ended up buying the NTK brand and they worked perfectly. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER o2 SENSOR on a JK than NTK or MOPAR (Bosch is too sensitive and will trigger CEL's). NTK website has a part lookup function (note: upstream and downstream are different part numbers). NTK are more expensive but TOTALLY worth it. Cheap sensors are not worth the hassle. Another key tip: O2 sockets are not meant to "break loose" difficult sensors - the wrench (link below), with a hammer, worked perfectly for breaking loose the sensor (after broken loose, then you can use the slotted sensor socket). Also, use PB blaster the night before. Note: Always use a thread chaser & high-temp anti-seize before inserting new sensor www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6TBHE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Why is it illegal if the fouler can be purchased from major retailer for that exact purpose?
Most folks disagreeing have been ugly about it, so I don't usually respond, but I'll explain. The defoulers are sold for sparkplugs, not your o2 sensors. You have to modify them for the o2 sensor. Even if your state does not require emission tests, federal law (that supercedes state law) makes it illegal to bypass factory emission equipment. 95% of folks that do this and get it to turn off the check engine light won't get caught. If I encourage people to do this, then youtube could pull the video. It would be irresponsible to encourage people to break the law. Several of the big youtube channels have been fined thousands of dollars by the feds for bypassing factory emissions. Do what you want with the information in this video.
@@ktecgarage thank you for the insight. I appreciate that and yes I agree. The fouler i observed was not for spark plugs but called oxygen sensor adaptor at walmart for $9. However, I agree what you are saying. Thank you for the information in general.
@@Fred-Faizi Walmart sells them? The could be in trouble, I think.
@@jeffryblackmon4846 Walmart is where I bought mine.
@@ktecgarage ....they do sell O2 sensor extention instead of using the non foulers.....For disclaimer purposes...only use them off road
DRIVING MY CAR FOR 5 YEARS NOW WITH THE NON FOULER & IT RUNS PERFECT WITH OVER 200K MILES & PASSES INSPECTION EVERY TIME.
Works great when you install it correctly.
It worked for me. 2002 Camry always throwing codes. Replaced the cat twice along with numerous other parts. I spent thousands trying to fix issues. Mechanics would “solve” the problems then a month or two later codes would be back. So I don’t feel bad about doing this. These rules hurt people who can least afford it the hardest. Car runs great, passes the rest of the test. so obviously it’s not polluting more than it should.
True, these rules dont apply to girls, wagging school, running around the world in 747s telling me not to burn fossill fuels.
You have fooled the computer. You did not solve the problem IMHO.
@@jeffryblackmon4846that's a fact, it's fooling the computer, not solving the problem. That's what you try to do if you don't have a large sum of money to cough up to get a car that's running fine to pass inspection.
Just an FYI I skipped this video 1 min in because of it's overproduction. Stick to the topic, short sweet and no music.
You did it wrong. Watch other videos. You need to stack them. Two are needed.
Depends on the application. I put two on my Pontiac Vibe, and it gave me a different code saying that the O2 sensor was not working. When I removed the second one, it worked just fine for several years.
@StewartAchillesI didn’t notice they were claiming to be a master mechanic. You sound like you didn’t get any the night before you wrote that.
@ZEROCOOLAGE You're blowing out opinions also lol not facts. Very ignorant bro.🤦
He also didn't remove the cat converters 😂
I added two on my Vanderhall, downstream sensor and it worked.
When I had them on the upstream it did not work.
I also have a new catalytic converter and two new O2 sensors.
It's not illegal in all of the US. There are states and counties where it doesn't matter.
Free States not too many left.
@@robertmuir4496 thankfully I found and eventually moved to one. Best decision I ever made
No smog where i am
It is federally illegal. To detect it is difficult because most states don't have state required inspections/emissions tests. Go see if a legit shop will install a defouler for you or remove/modify your CATS...they won't.
Yes, I was wondering too because the fouler can be purchased from major retailer including Advance Auto for this purpose.
It works if you use 2 of them correctly.
I only needed 1
Anytime you install any type of bolt or sensor into any exhaust part you should use never seez!
Worked for me for 5 years and 2 Commifornia emissions tests.. FYI: Have several cars in CA and usually do a smog test every year-I have *NEVER* had a tech craw under a car or put it on a lift to look at a sensor..
Exhaust paint or removing the plating makes it look more factory.
@@JohnDoe-id9hi i'm in PA aka little Commieforina they do a visual inspection along with emissions. never once have I had a tech or mechanic ask or fail me about my choices of exhaust. as long as the shell of the cat it there I am good to go. they know what's going on but they also know the rules of pass and fail I need a cat, I need o2s I need to have no stored or recent codes
If you previously failed for a bad cat they may look at the cat to see if you replaced it with a CARB approved cat and they may look at the sensor then. But you never know.
Worked twice for me
Worked on a 98 silverado for me. Its been a year still no cel👍I see a problem with your setup. You have to use 2 defoulers stacked on top of each other. One is drilled out so you can screw in the o2 and the one closest to the exhaust needs to be left unmodified with a small orfice on the end. This limits the exhaust gases that contact the sensor. Some defoulers ive seen have an assortment of different size orfices that you can tune with
I did this on my 04 Mitsubishi Lancer and 2 99 Honda CRVs and worked on all three vehicles
I had a cat that was deficient. I bought the "universal" non-fouler that's long, not short. Meaning I didn't have to drill out two short ones and put the together. The O2 sensor threaded into the universal non-fouler, then threaded it into the exhaust pipe. The CE light never came back on and it did run a lot better but not as well as it should. It was only an experiment. I tried one on the side that with the good cat and it made that side run so lean, it discolored the cat heat shield. I installed a new exhaust system with two new cats and it now runs like a champ.
It works! This guy needs to stop making videos.
Let me tell you..... that aftermarket cat you install will be worse than the bad OEM one in a few years.
For $170 instead of $2k, I'd take my chances. So long as it passes emissions. I put two Doorman cats on a J35 a few years back and haven't had an issue yet.
@@ktecgarage ... Let me re phrase. You cannot buy the same thing that came on your car from the factory, unless the car is very new. What I am saying..... is you are better off "modifying the output" of the oxygen sensor of your OEM cat, than installing an aftermarket car.
@jasonsprouse2803 Yup! That's why I went the defouler route. Didn't want to take a chance on crappy aftermarket cats. I don't trust them. And on an old car that mite burn oil or isn't tuned 100%, any cat isn't gonna last. Defouler worked for me👍
Absolutely! I went down a deep rabbit hole of spending money to chase problems after buying a $100 cat on amazon for high flow. 1st thing to check is that you properly did a burn-in when you 1st install a non-OE cat, and MAKE SURE THERE ARE ZERO EXHAUST LEAKS!!! Even if they seem minute. It's typically at the crappy flange between the cat and resonator/muffler.
I use two one drilled out 1/2" the other one do nothing...put two drilled one into the stock one and then put the sensor into the the back of that two piece assembly......so you did it wrong....
I've done this a bunch of times. Nissan downstream passenger side on the 3.5 engines is extremely common and a guarantee the code will trip before the car reaches 170K. I am not even a mechanic, and I know all the mechanics tactics. That little part backs the O2 out of the exhaust stream just enough that the sensor will not trip a code. Jeeps are terrible for tripping that code also. .
Because you didn’t do it correctly you have to use both of them one is not enough you have to drill the one and then throw the other one in there too. That’s why you did it incorrectly. I’ve watched quite videos, and seeing people do it incorrectly. You must use both.
@@CharlesLease-ei1ee exactly. I just tested it on mine and used two of them and a small narrow barrel with a medium hole to cause more restriction. The test worked on mine. It sucks to think I would need a new cat when for the last 5 years it has run smooth without issues and it gets great gas mileage. These invisible gasses are a money grab. In Texas they are fixing to do away with the safety inspection portion and just do the emissions. The safety portion is more important. I mean it was meant to check to make sure your brakes, horn, lights and windsheild wipers were working. That is more important than invisible gasses.
U can buy 2 but i just brought 1 longer one from O'Reillys and it works great i didn't need the one with 2
It is UNREALIST to "expect" emissions to last more than 100k and to pay the repairs to fall within the emissions. Yes, many cars can do 20yrs and/or 200k, but the standards today are so high and the methods of achieving those standards require a lot. Most cars being manufactured today will end up in the salvage yard by 10yrs/100k because of these standards and the cost of the repairs to meet emissions in the future. It is just a SCAM to get people to buy a new vehicle. There is no reason to build such trash.......Vehicles should last at least 200k or 20 yrs. The amount of pollution that is produced by making a new vehicle is crazy.
All good points. That's why I go with aftermarket parts. No, it's not the best, but it does fix the issue.
@@ktecgarage I hear you and this was not directed at you, but rather the "Guberment" Federal & State and the Automobile Manufacturers.....Yes, we need be "Environmentally Friendly" but they have gone off the deep with Emissions &"Climate Change" and EVs which are a Joke.......Yes, I agree Aftermarket when it is necessary. I try to buy the best value when I buy parts whether that is OEM, Aftermarket or Used. I look at the value/life left of the vehicle, the cost of the part and how long I think that part will last and make a choice in the part. I am not sure if this is still true, but you can not buy Catalytic Converters from the Salvage Yard which to me is the best way to recycle and save money and minimize pollution. I had to replace a cat on 2000 Honda Accord. The cat that was there was already aftermarket and the honey comb glass was all smashed. I am not going to buy a $1500 Honda Cat to go on a $1500 Accord with 300k on it. It is crazy to pay $300 for aftermarket glass one.
Almost everyone in comments that used this method had success with extensions😂
Instead of using two non foulers stacked, why not use one of the 1.5 inch non foulers?
I did it on my chevy blazer, it worked, going to try on my cobalt. Its just a try . If i get a lite, might go staight pipe
@hhhmotorsports9550 2002 Chevy Blazer here, works perfectly! Have 240,000 miles and no Engine light for anything! My cats got stolen and I'll be damned of im going put that much money into a vehicle with that many miles. Especially when it's running strong.
Skip to 1:20 for video to actually start
Thank you for the excellent advice. I agree. Do it right, do it once, then enjoy happy motoring.
I had a neighbor bring down a Kia Soul with a 2.0 that was showing signs of a plugged cat. converter. I disconnected the exhaust pipe leading into the cat, then took it for a spin. It ran like a scalded cat! Looking in the intake of the cat showed it was very much plugged up. We tried CATACLEAN in the tank. It did improve, but not perfect. I replaced the converter, and it was running perfect again, but now throwing a code. Sent a message to the company, asking for suggestions for a fix? They sent me a spark plug adapter for free. About to install it and see what happens. I'll let you know!
UPDATE: I installed the plug adapter and cleared the code. It lasted a short while and then the code reappeared. At least in this case, the spark plug adapter did not work
This totally works for a p0420 on 2005 toyota/Lexus 3MZFE engine...make sure cat isnt clogged tho.
I'd be a lot more comfortable with this procedure if you guys on RUclips would show the live data stream for the rear O² sensor before and after installation.
As for the open end wrench you used to remove and install your O² sensor, I have a set of various O² sensor sockets. Sometimes they work, sometimes they round off the nut on the O² sensor. These days, I almost always use a pipe wrench to remove and install O² sensors. The pipe wrench grips better, doesn't slip, and round off the nut, and the longer handle gives me more leverage.
I did this on a 98 silverado that it worked on. I didn't look at the live data before but after. It's supposed to be a somewhat flat line reading around half a volt +/-. That's what I read on the scan tool. It's been almost a year still no code. I think some cars have more stringent programming parameters that mite still trip codes tho. Also I don't know if having an intact or gutted cat makes a difference. Also some defoulers have different orfice hole sizes that can be played around with
@@MarcBchannel that passenger side gets real close to the frame rail on the obs and nbs chevys with the non foulers in.. but somehow has just enough clearance as the engineers said well we know their going to do this lets give them just enough room to pull it off but just enough room to ruin their day if the exhaust hangers are out of par.
@Mjphillips77 Figures🤣 I have an OBS with the 5.0. Had plenty of room. The 5.0's merge from the manifolds to a single cat. The 5.7's usually go from the manifolds to 2 cats then merge so there mite be less room.
I ran 1 gallon of 114 octane race fuel with a full tank of 93 gas. And the code disappeared. But only lasted 3 weeks then came back.
Sparkplug non-fouler works both on my car and my friend' truck??????
The more common cause of low efficiency these days is the low quality of replacement cats.
Oem cats are getting expensive, people often go after market. The after market cats don’t heat up as well as the OEMs. That’s the difference in a $1300 cat and $200 after market.
i can already tell exactly where this guy went wrong and why it didn’t work
Will my 97 GMC pickup 5.7 run with no catalytic converter or sensor
yes it will run.. but it run poorly. you will waste a lot of fuel. lets say you had no catalytic converter.. umm a meth head cut it off and you need to get to work.. put in a straight pipe. use 2 non foulers per downstream O2 one drilled out other one not drilled and stacked now the computer will think theres a proper cat in line and you will be good to go with oem fuel milage ya know till pay day rolls around and you can drop a stack on new cats. wink wink you want to get fancy you can take a bit of steel wool and stuff it into the bottom of the non drilled then stack them and it will give the ecm a better reading but it works without doing that step as well.
It probably DID work, he just saying it didn't for legal reasons...
Hello. The diameter of the beginning of the sensor is 10 mm. The outside diameter of the beginning of the most of the sensor extensions on Walmart is 16 mm. So the sensor suppose to fit without drilling. Do I still need to drill? Is there other reason to drill? TY
It does work fine for many, sometimes you have to get a longer one.
This guy must work at a muffler shop.
My issue is the amount that the shop wants to replace my catalytic converter is probably equal to the value of my car. Not everyone is in a position to pay a huge sum to get a car thats running fine to pass inspection. The government doesnt care about emissions, its all a money game.
2002 ranger 3.0 cats delete..2 oil foulers drilled one stacked the 3 amd truck ran good for 5 mins..lol. check engine light and truck ran like crap mid range..Tryed just 1 same deal..tryed the one i drilled same deal bad idle then..So didnt work for me..❤
Like the author said, you're just slowing down the real reason for the engine check light. I have honda civic I'm using this, and it works. After 5 years now turned out it is the valve's letting too much oil into combustion chambers. And it's not even my fault , honda says legally vitec petrol engine can burn up to 1 l of oil per around 6xx some miles, check your manual for exact mileage. There you have it, you're burning oil into exhaust system slowly killing your honda. But don't get me wrong, yours can be bad piston rings, or something else
You her wonder why some states don't have smog testing stations or require thousand of dollars worth of emissions control stuff on a car like a catalyzed converter that cost $1,200 that are stolen by the millions in the U.S.year after year.
Heavely populated states like california emit alot of emissions and guess where all that air goes?? ➡️ East. So its actually a good thing.
What would hsppen if we grind the probe off????
Obviously the K stands for Karen.
It does work when done correctly. You need to use 2 foulers, not just one.
He’s doing it wrong that’s why it didn’t work your supposed to use both pieces and drill a hole in one only not both
I get the impression he didn't want it to work. It worked for me. I wanted to do it right so I replaced the cat and both sensors and it still failed so I went with the defoulers.
@@SuperHandyManhe’s a democrat
My Subaru is getting this code with an aftermarket downpipe and GESI cat.
what about the decat simulator ? a de-fouler but comes with a built in precat to simulate having a cat ???
I know folks use things like that, but they are illegal to use in the USA. I'm sure they turn off the engine light, but it doesn't "fix" the car and I'm not encouraging anyone to break the law. Aftermarket cats are fairly cheap, even if they aren't great, but it's the cheap and legal way to go.
@@ktecgarage but we arent trying to *fix* the problem. We want an answer to whether or not this will pass emissions test whether or not its ethical. we're talking about motor vehicles here. not law, not medicine. something that some people need to get from work to home. Also, id suggest re uploading this video but instead STACKING TWO foulers ontop instead of just one. You need to stack two or else there wont be enough space between the sensor and the exhaust fumes in order to trick the computer into thinking it is getting a smooth reading.
Im pretty sure you should have put the spacer on the other 02 sensor .
One anti fouler didn't work for me.
Two anti foulers together works perfectly and has done for 6 months so far
Just installed this on my mdx and the code went away.
All this emissions BS is just that BS. Drive and maintain a old pre-emissions car or one old enough that it don't need this BS test. I could give a rats ass if the car has a check engine light on. My concern is if people on the road have brakes, lights, and good tires. The important things.
Exactly get the hell out of here with this illegal bullshit because my cat is only operating at 94% efficiency 😂
heavy car + powerful engine= more pollution
@@mkrp4 Bull Shit. That ended when leaded gas did. All the shit in cars and trucks now a days is to make them to expensive to buy and repair. So they can sell more. That is the only reason. Know whether you what to see that or not it's on you. How environmental is it to junk and make new cars? How environmental is all the non recyclable plastic in modern cars? Break out of the Matrix you live in. I have seen way too many cars and truck being scraped because the cost of repairs to make a fuckin light on the dash to go out to pass inspection. Other then the light they are fine.
@@dcummings7253
It didn't work because you drilled out the bottom of the non fouler. You're not supposed to do that. I have a complete brand new exhaust system, manifolds, cat's, all the way to the tailpipe and I get the P0420 & P0430 codes when using winter blend fuel, codes go away with summer blend fuel. Installed these, no more issues.
You have to drill out one or the sensor doesnt fit. Then stack it with the second one undrilled.
Rather than just condemn something because "you" don't think it will work, it would be more informative if you showed the live data from the downstream sensor before and after installing the spacer, to back up your claims. As you probably know, a bad convertor will typically register crossover counts similar to the upstream sensor, indicating a failed convertor. In theory, installing the spacer moves the sensor out of the direct exhaust stream, and exhaust gases then tend to pool around the sensor, which buffers the readings.
Please where can I get this
You have to make another video buddy. Double them up. Its stack two then reinstall.
what do you meant not work man, i am installit 5 yers ago now its still work, not come light anymore.
If they cared about pollution they would still test the exhaust instead of relying solely on computer codes. There have been recalls on bad computers throwing faulty codes, ahem, Honda, but they don't test for that either.
my own experince i used one for 2 yrs in a corolla vvti..its works it turns off light...BUT BE WARNED YOUR CAR WILL HAVE VERY BAD FUEL MILAGE...I TOOK MINE BACK OUT AND MY CAR HAS RETURNED TO NORMAL ..A BLIND MAN COULD SEE THE MILAGE HAS RETURNED TO NORMAL..I BELIVE I LOST COST OF CAT ON UNBURNED FUEL .BIG MISTAKE BY ME ..BE WARNED..
👆 What he said. Screws up the fuel trims.
@@ktecgarage yes it screws up the fuel trims if there is a cat still in place. lets take the situation where a meth head steals your cat you need to get to work and only have $100 in the bank account. ya know because willingly removal or punching out a cat is a no no in the US. If installed correctly 2 units per downstream O2 a small amount of steel wool in-between the 2 non foulers simulating a cat will restore the fuel trims to oem
@@ktecgarage I thought the upstream sensor (air/fuel ratio sensor in my case) sent the data back to the ECM and controlled short and long-term fuel trim. I thought the downstream sensor only monitored the effectiveness of the cat. Please explain how the downtream sensor impacts fuel trim.
@@miken4022I believe you are correct. The downstream sensor only tells the ECM if the cats are working. All the fuel air info comes from the upstream.
You have to use 2 of them like others have commented already 😂. Stack them. Pushing sensor out of the pipe far enough to get cleaner air reading
Unless your vehicle is 0:04 sending a plume of smoke from the exhaust, these emission laws are ridiculous! The amount of dangerous emissions expelled by a vehicle during its final useful lifetime is far less than the emissions and pollution caused by tearing apart, separating and smelting all the steel and components of the already existing and useful paid for vehicle. I miss the days of buying a $300 car with minor issues, spending a few hours and $ for parts. Nice, I'd have a good running beater to drive for a couple of years! Good luck today..
Which size non fouler did you use.
there's only one size to use 18mm. advanced, autozone, oreilys, pepboys they all sell em. here's whats it's called at advanced "Dorman - Help Spark Plug Non-Foulers - 18mm Gasket Seat" 2 in a pack for 12.99 as I just had to buy them lastnight lol if you have a v6 or v8 you are going to need 2 packs a total of 4. 4cyl or inline 6 you only need one pack use entire pack on each downstream o2.
Just get a $100 48 state cat and slap it in? As long as they don't do a tailpipe test, you should be golden.
Very gentle and calming introduction.
Thank you kindly!
I think you are supposed to stack 2 defoulers not just one.
It would help if you did it right fed boy
Are these supposed to go downstream or upstream. On one cat or both?
Downstream on which ever cat is misbehaving. P0420 is bank 1 and p0430 is bank 2.
would love to replace my cat but they no longer make mine and the aftermarket ones are junk and the light comes on again anyway so why go through all that bullshit ? and besides my car is over 20 years old so they waive the emissions test anyway , i just want that friggin light off!!!
I think they don't work if the Cat is to far gone.....They do work
It will but it won't pass a smog inspection....had one on a car in California but yeah they saw it when they ran a mirror under my car
That's because you live in Commiefornia!
@@smedleybutler1969 Imagine standing on the north pole and declaring "Canada is Argentina because they're both south of me!!". Do ya see now how idiotic this Red Scare shit is?
You must not know people
You can do the same thing with the oxygen sensor itself. If it's a louvered sensor, take pliers and carefully close up the louvers. If it has holes, you need to make up some thing out of steel that will fit tightly around and seal it off. What you are doing is slowing down the exhaust flow into the oxygen sensor.
think the best solution to pass the smog check is by the following procedure; BUT, if you have a bad cat problem initially preventing you from passing smog check, keep in mind people, your catalytic converter will eventually need to replaced to prevent damage to your engine. This is just a temporary method to try to help pass smog.
1) reset your codes using an obdII
2) remove o2 sensor#2 (Downstream), after cat and maybe clean it while you are at it.
3) install adapter
4) install o2 sensor unto the adapter
5) run your vehicle for 60 miles or more, depending on your vehicle so you can have all onboard monitors ready for smog check & hopefully yo check engine light does not appear.
6) the day/time of your smog check inpection, run your vehicle for at least 4 to 6 miles or more for a warm up.
7) remove o2 sensor (wear gloves & work smart as components will be hot)
8) remove adapter(wear gloves & work smart as components will be hot) as they may visually be inspecting undeneath.
9) re-install o2 sensor without adapter. ( wear gloves & work smart as components will be hot)
10) visit your local smog check station & hopefully it will pass without having the adapter during the test/inspection.
Seems like a lot to do but it can be far better than replacing the catalytic converter just to pass smog. Tough times call for desperate measures!
Good luck good people ✌🕶🔧
Thank you man,,thank you man,,thank you man,,thank you man,,thank you man,,thank you man,,thank you man thank you.
I installed it on my 4Runner but consume more gasoline 😢
The problem here is price. If the feds mandate that we have to have it on our cars, then they should also pay when it needs to be replaced. Otherwise people will never stop looking for ways around the issue.
EDIT: Also I think it's crazy that modifying it like this is illegal when driving around with a check engine light on isn't. Just leave the bad cat in there and enjoy the amber glow on your dashboard. Problem solved lol
Bad idea. The car is in closed loop mode and defaults to slightly rich running which gets poor mileage and can eventually clog the cats. Dont ever drive extended periods with a CEL on.
It is a bad idea. That car was getting 16mpg after the "hack." Thanks for commenting.
@@ktecgarage Oh wow I didn't realize the rich condition this would cause while in closed loop. I used Cataclean on mine twice and so far so good. I discovered I had bad spark plugs that probably fouled the CAT. I bought some NGK plugs on Amazon that turned out to be counterfeit and started causing bad misfires after 25-30k miles.
P0420 code is either sensors or cat replace
This is meant to be a fix for a cat converter delete and he still has one...😂
You need to put two in the back and two in the front
Try a longer extender with a bit of steel wool loosely packed in first. It does what what the extender with the screen in the end will do.
Steel wool? Which grade , coarse 4 or 0000. Or in between.
I used some medium stuff between 00 and 1. Between the different OEMs there's no universal standard of what the ECU is programmed to look for as acceptable O2 sensor feedback parameters so a little trial and error is sometimes needed. A scan tool helps too so you can look at a graph of the voltage switch rate compared to the front O2 on the same bank. To much separation form the exhaust flow and it won't switch at all, then the ECU will purposely run very rich looking for a response and generally the car will run like crap. You want a nice lazy switching rate compared to the front O2 which switches pretty fast. If it's a fairly late model car it'll have wide band sensor in the front that will read the whole operating range of AFRs and not just stoich. You'd still want a lazy switch rate on the rear O2s, just nothing to compare it to. Hope that helps @@CONFUCIUS-f2x
This guy done it wrong people he is trying to trick yall to do the right thing ur supposed to stack them or just buy the right adapter offline for this
Use a J-pipe non fowler instead of the straight one
the answer is yes!
4:32 Support your local economic🤣 ok buddy
Good fix for p0420 and smogg
He doesn't know what he's doin and if it actually didn't work he would have shown the live data on his expensive scanner to prove it didn't work.
You talk some 💩 I have been doing that for years on cars best trick out there 😂
What did I say that was inaccurate?
I've done this a few times . its a cheap fix . and some cars you will have to manually clear the code with your scanner or drive it for a awhile once its reach the permanent code indicator for it to be removed. i just clear it.
It worked for me
thumbs down for being a bootlicker and giving us a "warning" that its illegal. literally no one cares...also it does work if you do it right, you need to use 2 anti foulers
Starts at 1:20.
You have to use 2 per o2 sensor on rear bank,and your dead wrong,it most certainly does work without a doubt,do it the right way with 2 per cylinder and get back to us sir
Do make wrong videos please you did it wrong takes two one drilled and one not
u can build/buy simple electronic fooler circuits for getting around car communism. Ran one on my Peugeot EGR sensor for yrs.
TL:DR - You might not have a bad CAT - it might be cheapo (aka bad) O2 sensors. Buy NTK or OEM sensors (it's worth the extra $).
Was down a rabbit hole not being able to get rid of a P0420 on my 2011 JK Wrangler. Ended up replacing the bank 1 O2 sensors with a Chinese brand off Amazon thinking that would fix it - NOPE! ... tested replacement o2 sensors and they were giving off too high 6 ohms across heater element. CEL's for "high-voltage" persisted (NTK & Mopars give off 3.5 ohms).
Almost bought new Catalytic convertors (also tried cleaning the cats & even using the spark plug non-fouler trick but CEL's persisted due to cheapo O2 sensors - non-foulers will not work if your cheap sensors are sending incorrect voltages to the PCM). After much research, discovered the JK is super sensitive to o2 sensors. Ended up buying the NTK brand and they worked perfectly. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER o2 SENSOR on a JK than NTK or MOPAR (Bosch is too sensitive and will trigger CEL's). NTK website has a part lookup function (note: upstream and downstream are different part numbers). NTK are more expensive but TOTALLY worth it. Cheap sensors are not worth the hassle.
Another key tip: O2 sockets are not meant to "break loose" difficult sensors - the wrench (link below), with a hammer, worked perfectly for breaking loose the sensor (after broken loose, then you can use the slotted sensor socket). Also, use PB blaster the night before. Note: Always use a thread chaser & high-temp anti-seize before inserting new sensor www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6TBHE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thank you for sharing that experience. Chinese sensors are a bad idea.
You did it wrong, you are supposed to use 2
You did Not Use a Long Enough Adapter for your Test ! It Has ti Farther Away from the Cat Reader !!!
You need to do a Proper Test !!!
You did it wrong that’s why there’s not working
He didn’t clean the sensor. F-ing hack 🤔
Oh hell NO Your cat is burnt !
You did it wrong.
Dude your cat is burnt
Yes its working 😂
This guy is misleading information.what a waste of time watching. How can i block you so tou don't pop up on my YT wall....👎👎👎
Oh Heck... Just buy a NEW CAR!!! End!