2:09 Tools that you need 6:45 Multi-Meter Skills 9:17 Gauges 15:55 Switches 22:55 Ghost Voltage 24:49 Relays 30:05 Circuit Breakers / fuses 34:13 AC Circuits
Could you break down the components for the make it yourself breaker? Is it just a 15 amp breaker with attached 14gauge wire? Thanks! This presentation deserves a reward!!!
Glad you liked the presentation. Yes, I've made and used a bunch of variations. 15 or 20 amp breaker. #14 or #12 wire with alligator clips. I usually do between 18" - 36" length. If I need to use it to apply power to say a pump, further than that from a source of power, I keep a 15' or so with clips on both ends. Going to work on more videos this fall!
This video is fantastic! Very thorough. The man knows his stuff. Does a fine job describing. I saved this so I could reference later when I have trouble with my boat electrical.
Decent overview but a few comments. The voltage checker is commonly called a chicken stick. The bigger clamps are battery clamps not alligator clamps. A microfarad check is for capacitance. Ohms are for continuity. Fuel gauges must be paired to the sender and not all senders are full ground = full/pegged. Some sensors might be 5v on newer engines. The starter has a solenoid on it and that is a relay. All motors and most gadgets have the required voltage and draw in amps on them so this can be useful for checking condition. Just like older cars many previous owners upgraded/added things without electrical knowledge. If there are splices in the system or other obvious modifications check them out as a potential source of overdraw or other sadness.
Correct! A closed (good) switch should be zero volts in an active circuit. The one that confuses people is the 12 volts (on a good/active circuit) when the switch is open
bluetooth meters are awesome too in the times when you cannot get a visual on the meter when you're in another part of the boat. I highly recommend the Hioki CM series such as their 4372
Yes, Bluetooth is great - I personally have a half-dozen meters. I got.a removable face before the BlueTooth technology came out. My Fluke 375 works well, I have tried a Hioki.
Mr. Beemer, I have 4 or 5 unused Blue Seas Breakers (15 amp) that I would like to donate to the Skallywags (like you show at 4:00). Does your program accept donations? I live in Anacortes
Yes, that would be GREAT! We can always use those. You can drop them off at the front desk with Misty, or if you want, you can email me to set up a time to drop them off and say "Hi" Email is in the video descriptions.
about ghost voltage, I used to use an 1156 bulb inline of my volt meter when looking around for ghost voltage but since I use the Loadpro from Electronic Specialties. It is much easier and allows the tech to introduce a load at will by means of a momentary button. its Perfect or confirming if that fuse really "is" good or if its just good enough to pass voltage and satisfy a traditional volt meter test. thing has saved me time especially when working on trailer wiring
Yes our students get a lesson with the LoadPro - also we have Dan Sullivan's book that goes with it. I had to keep this video to under 45 minutes - maybe I'll put together Part 2!
Sorry for the delay - summer - been out sailing :) We have many at school. I think the favorite is: Triplett ET200 AC Line Splitter and GFCI Outlet/Receptacle Tester with 5 Visual Indicators
Hello there, I came across your video because I’m trying to figure out how did all my gauges stopped working all at once when I added a second battery on my boat. I have. 2001 regal fastrack . The boat turns on fine but no cluster . I checked all relays and fuses and is all good . There’s power going to the cluster plug . Any help I’ll appreciate it thanks
OK - if all gauges stopped it's more than likely 1 of two things - power or ground. If you checked fuses... then it's a ground - the only thing common to all. However, use a multi-meter and make sure you have 12 volts at the back of one of the gauges. Test from the positive post to the negative at the battery (key)
Michael, your video is wonderful and educational. Loved it. I could use a little feedback from you. I am interested in getting a clamp meter. I am considering Fluke 375 vs 393. The price is similar. 393 shows voltage and DC current simultaneously and rated for more voltage with heavy duty DC voltage to 1500 V. Would you have preferred 393 over 375 if you were buying another unit and have a boat?
I think both very similar. On boats we never need high voltage DC. I prefer the 375 now only because I've learned and used this one for a number of years.
Really like your video. Great tips. I have a question. You have a 25 foot, 14 gauge wire for testing. I noticed that there is no breaker on the wire. Is there a reason for that?
Hi Michael, great video!! Im interested in getting certified to work in this field. I currently have an A.A.S in Electronics Engineering but love the marine industry. Is there a school that you know of in NJ to assist me?
Two closest are - IYRS, International Yacht Restoration, and the Landings School. I've been to both. Private, so more expensive than our Community College, but good schools.
Sorry about that, but I have to keep Seattle Boat Show videos to 45 minutes! Never enough time. Those quick checks will tell you if it's the gauge, sender, or wiring. Maybe for next years video I can focus on specific topics.
This is the best educational RUclips video for the non electrical person with a boat
Thanks for the nice note! I'm going to try and make a couple more this fall! And, of course, lots of Tech Tips in the works.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. I’m 22 just got my first project boat 🫡
Great - starting young is perfect - enjoy your project,
Mike
2:09 Tools that you need
6:45 Multi-Meter Skills
9:17 Gauges
15:55 Switches
22:55 Ghost Voltage
24:49 Relays
30:05 Circuit Breakers / fuses
34:13 AC Circuits
Absolutely fantastic content. Great job explaining your techniques for troubleshooting boat dc systems
Thanks for watching! I've been meaning to create some more, but teaching has been keeping me far too busy!
Great presentation video, very clear and very educational ! I wish i had a teacher like you when i was a student, keep up the good work !
Thank you! 😃
Could you break down the components for the make it yourself breaker? Is it just a 15 amp breaker with attached 14gauge wire? Thanks! This presentation deserves a reward!!!
Glad you liked the presentation. Yes, I've made and used a bunch of variations. 15 or 20 amp breaker. #14 or #12 wire with alligator clips. I usually do between 18" - 36" length. If I need to use it to apply power to say a pump, further than that from a source of power, I keep a 15' or so with clips on both ends. Going to work on more videos this fall!
This video is fantastic! Very thorough. The man knows his stuff. Does a fine job describing. I saved this so I could reference later when I have trouble with my boat electrical.
Many thanks, We'll be making more now that our second big re-fit project is complete!
Thank you! Clear and simple.
Glad it was helpful! It's what we do - working on a shorter video about troubleshooting this month!
Great video! No substitute for the full electrical course but, nice summary/refresher of the electrical courses taught at the school.
Very nice presentation and worth the time to watch, thanks for your time
Glad you enjoyed it! Next time I think I'll break it down into shorter topics...
Decent overview but a few comments. The voltage checker is commonly called a chicken stick. The bigger clamps are battery clamps not alligator clamps. A microfarad check is for capacitance. Ohms are for continuity. Fuel gauges must be paired to the sender and not all senders are full ground = full/pegged. Some sensors might be 5v on newer engines. The starter has a solenoid on it and that is a relay. All motors and most gadgets have the required voltage and draw in amps on them so this can be useful for checking condition.
Just like older cars many previous owners upgraded/added things without electrical knowledge. If there are splices in the system or other obvious modifications check them out as a potential source of overdraw or other sadness.
Thanks, planning on a version 2.0, once we finish a few other projects
Thank you very much...learned a lot. Cheers!
Our pleasure - follow us, always more coming out!
so at 19:49, if the switch is open you get 12 volt ,
when you close the switch and get 0 volt the switch is fine
Correct! A closed (good) switch should be zero volts in an active circuit. The one that confuses people is the 12 volts (on a good/active circuit) when the switch is open
This is excellent. Thanks for the great presentation!
Glad you enjoyed it! When I get caught up, we'll make a couple more!
What a great presentation, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another GREAT presentation! I'm going to have to review some of it to grasp the concepts more fully, other parts of it were a great review.
Absolutely incredible. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! More to come
bluetooth meters are awesome too in the times when you cannot get a visual on the meter when you're in another part of the boat. I highly recommend the Hioki CM series such as their 4372
Yes, Bluetooth is great - I personally have a half-dozen meters. I got.a removable face before the BlueTooth technology came out. My Fluke 375 works well, I have tried a Hioki.
Mr. Beemer, I have 4 or 5 unused Blue Seas Breakers (15 amp) that I would like to donate to the Skallywags (like you show at 4:00). Does your program accept donations? I live in Anacortes
Yes, that would be GREAT! We can always use those. You can drop them off at the front desk with Misty, or if you want, you can email me to set up a time to drop them off and say "Hi" Email is in the video descriptions.
Great presentation, thank you.
Thanks, trying to put together a couple more of these - the boat projects & Tech-Tips have been keeping me too busy!
Thank you so much for this!
Glad it was helpful! This is what we do - teach and share, it's our passion!
about ghost voltage, I used to use an 1156 bulb inline of my volt meter when looking around for ghost voltage but since I use the Loadpro from Electronic Specialties. It is much easier and allows the tech to introduce a load at will by means of a momentary button. its Perfect or confirming if that fuse really "is" good or if its just good enough to pass voltage and satisfy a traditional volt meter test. thing has saved me time especially when working on trailer wiring
Yes our students get a lesson with the LoadPro - also we have Dan Sullivan's book that goes with it. I had to keep this video to under 45 minutes - maybe I'll put together Part 2!
Man, this is a great resource! Thank you!
Glad you like it!
Any chance you have the make and model of that AC line splitter? Thanks for very helpful videos!!!!
Sorry for the delay - summer - been out sailing :) We have many at school. I think the favorite is: Triplett ET200 AC Line Splitter and GFCI Outlet/Receptacle Tester with 5 Visual Indicators
Hello there, I came across your video because I’m trying to figure out how did all my gauges stopped working all at once when I added a second battery on my boat. I have. 2001 regal fastrack . The boat turns on fine but no cluster . I checked all relays and fuses and is all good . There’s power going to the cluster plug . Any help I’ll appreciate it thanks
OK - if all gauges stopped it's more than likely 1 of two things - power or ground. If you checked fuses... then it's a ground - the only thing common to all. However, use a multi-meter and make sure you have 12 volts at the back of one of the gauges. Test from the positive post to the negative at the battery (key)
Michael, your video is wonderful and educational. Loved it. I could use a little feedback from you. I am interested in getting a clamp meter. I am considering Fluke 375 vs 393. The price is similar. 393 shows voltage and DC current simultaneously and rated for more voltage with heavy duty DC voltage to 1500 V. Would you have preferred 393 over 375 if you were buying another unit and have a boat?
I think both very similar. On boats we never need high voltage DC. I prefer the 375 now only because I've learned and used this one for a number of years.
@ thank you
Well explained..thank ypu
Glad you liked it - we'll produce some more!!
Really like your video. Great tips. I have a question. You have a 25 foot, 14 gauge wire for testing. I noticed that there is no breaker on the wire. Is there a reason for that?
Its just an extension jumper. I always use it with the breaker for OCP when testing
This is great
Glad you enjoyed, more to come!
fantastic
Thank you! Cheers! I'm going to try and put some more together, classes just starting - electrical 2, so I'll try and do some AC stuff :)
Yep, that worked. Tested and eliminated until I found a break in the wire leading from the sender to the gauge.
Excellent, thanks for the feedback!
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
I've been thinking about a part 2, but filming all the boat projects and teaching has been working me 10-12 hours a day!
Hi Michael, great video!! Im interested in getting certified to work in this field. I currently have an A.A.S in Electronics Engineering but love the marine industry. Is there a school that you know of in NJ to assist me?
Two closest are - IYRS, International Yacht Restoration, and the Landings School. I've been to both. Private, so more expensive than our Community College, but good schools.
You are just telling, not explaining. For example, at 12:29 why does connecting S to Ground fully deflect the gauge?
Sorry about that, but I have to keep Seattle Boat Show videos to 45 minutes! Never enough time. Those quick checks will tell you if it's the gauge, sender, or wiring. Maybe for next years video I can focus on specific topics.
A good tool is half the job ☺️
I'll say, and so many that I can't live without!
Thousands of dollars worth of information
For many reasons - Techs are getting very expensive and to add freedom and reduce fears about boats breaking down!
tens of thousands $$$ if you ask me for me thank u sir for ur educational service!