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Here's a trick I have used a lot, take your grinder and cut it almost all the way through stopping so you don't damage the shaft. The take a chisel and hit it into the groove you made splitting it and it should pop right off.
now, mark, just imagine how much easier all this would have been if there was no trailer attached to those tandems so you could get right at them...... could have worked in the shop too. i guess this is how you learn your lessons ;) and you literally hammered home the point about using antiseize. Always. even if the instructions don't say so. the next guy will thank you.
Mark has far more patience than I do. I’d have cut those cams and put in new bushings. Had brand new brakes, less the drums. Cheaper than doing brakes on a pickup truck.
I couldn’t figure out why you didn’t replace the slack adjusters, S cams , and brake chambers when you had the tandem’s in your shop. Would have been so much easier. I guess some things are learned the hard way. Lol. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks for the great content.
Another great episode Mark! A wire brush hose clamped to an old reciprocating saw blade is a great way to clean splines. Can't wait to see this whole rig done!!!
Hey Mark, the S-cam bushings, which are usually plastic, may have been damaged with the amount of heat used on the slacks… I would take those covers off and inspect them.
Hi Mark A little tip when using oxygen - acetylene torch is when switching off the torch you shut off the acetylene first then the oxygen second. What it is, the oxygen being at a higher pressure actually reduces the risk of a flash back, that's flame's travelling up the hose to the acetylene tank. I was told to remember first to be ignited is the first to be shut off.
I think you are supposed to heat the outside component not the shaft, when metal is heated it expands. But I know you will figure it out keep up the good work Mark.
Very true, you want the slack adjuster to expand not the spline shaft. What can break it loose quickly though is heating and cooling cycles. Heat the whole thing up, then cool it with penetrating oil, and heat and cool several times before pulling.
I noticed in the movie reference clip at 2:20 there's a striped square outline around the fridge box in the same silver/gray color as the undercarriage. Looks like an easy tape off job! 🤠👍
Mornin Mark, Always hated doing brakes , BUT you had to learn to do them right weather you liked it or not, is was one of the main operations of any truck that kept you alive. I learned the hard way after a run away up in the Swan hills country. My brakes never out of adjustment again. Great video Mark see you on the next one , Say hello to Mrs. Twin stix for us.
Keep hitting on that cam and you can take the hubs off again. Cam bushing are toast. More washers needed to take up the space on the cam to keep it from going inward.
I have been there. I have seen a guy cut the s-cam during the brake job and put in new s-cams because the slack adjusters were stuck on so bad. Awesome video!
The reason you want to open the oxygen valve all the way is because it is a double seat valve, the packing on the valve handle can not hold against 2000 psi, but the valve all the way open can. Saves on gas.
Wooo hoo.. good morning twinsticks garage family 🤎 & y'all...and. I can't get over the inserts and whatnot you use...just hilarious 😂...hell to the naw naw😂.. I've said it before..but you do such a great job on all of your projects...and I appreciate them all ..thank you bunch .whats the best day of the week? .. Thursday of course ..❤️🇨🇦✝️🇺🇸❤️....ps..I always watch till the end😉
On the automatic slack adjustment, you are very right about not trusting them. If a driver does not apply the brakes properly, push in/off and based on the closeness of the person you might hit or road conditions and the speed your doing, and when he or she lets off that adjustor clicks, just like you said. But if they are quick on the application of the foot valve, on/off, on/off, on/off, that can cause the adjustor to miss a click and then you are out of adjustment.
One trick with those cheap pullers is to weld a little blob on the back of each of the arms. Then when you get it on you can use tie wire or a zip tie on the jaws to keep them closed
Love the build! I know you weren't able to quite match the silver paint, but consider looking at the the color "Argent Grey". It was used on a lot of old equipment. It's a silver with a sparkly kinda shine. I think that might be the look you were wanting to match the movie trailer. Keep up the great work!
Mark ... we enjoy ANY and ALL the videos you put up .... don't ever worry about "too many trailer videos", or "too many paint videos" ..... we ENJOY every minute of every one. I am always amazed at the time and effort you put into your projects. Being older and retired, I don't have half the energy you do ... but I got time to watch your videos. Keep up the great work and the great videos !!!
Mark the puller would have been the best solution now you'll find out that you have to pull those S cams and put new bushings and grease seals if they're nylon bushings in there they'll be melted causing a lot of play yes I have been down the road to myself
Greetings from Trinidad, the best thing for those slack adjusters is too spray WD 40 & let it soak overnight. The heat from the torch can damage the cam bushing anyway keep up the good work & keep on trucking mark !
I didn't have a torch when I replaced the slack adjusters on a trash truck but a saws all worked out good after the blade was shorten great video and glad you won the battle and stay safe and God bless from GA
It sucks that those slack adjusters fought you so hard... but it's nice to see that kind of nonsense doesn't just happen to me. Loving the progress Mark! Thanks for taking us along with you.
Dear TwinStickGarage Mark P. 👍👌👏 Maaan, what a struggle! I'm glad that you succeeded. Congratulations!🎉 Often times heat is mechanics best friend. The new brake chambers etc. are looking great. I'm eagerly looking forward to see the next video. As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and especially health to all of you.
Also, when setting the slack adjusters 1/4 turn is usually too tight, 1/2 turn is usually pretty bang on, its supposed to be measured, put air to the park brakes to release them, mark the pushrod, set your slack adjuster 1/2 turn back from applied to start, then dump the air to apply the park brake, now measure from the base of the brake pot to your original mark, spec is between 1” 1.5” of travel, and it cannot be more than 1/4” difference from the left to right,
In hindsight, when that tandem was sitting in the garage, and you were doing the brakes, that’s when you should’ve beat them suckers off of there. Also those cam bushings are toast after all that heating and beating. 🤦🏻♂️
I drove for a rock quarry. Our mechanics were kings on swear words when they would do brakes on our rigs. I commend you for keeping it PG. I feel for you, man
I've had to remove plenty of stuck "never greased" slack adjusters and your best bet is to heat it up and take your grease gun and fill it till It pours out then heat it again till it melts the grease and repeat it will come off eventually
With that puller on crooked it could binding, I’d use a ratchet and make sure it’s pulling straight, also not supposed to heat break components like that lol, technically s cams should be replaced now, and those s cam bushings are more than likely melted with that much heat, they are usually plastic or nylon bushings,
Blimey mate that was seriously attached! And good call on leaving the front adjusters in place. As long as they take grease they should be fine. These are the hard yards that people at shows never see and simply do not appreciate. But we do and there was a mighty 'YESSS!' when that thing popped off on this side of the pond!
Mark, your patience was tested with these brakes, but you prevailed! Thanks for the video it was educational. Looks forward to the future videos with the trailer.
Enjoy your videos so much, and it always inspires me to watch one of the many trucking movies. Today, after your video, I watched the 1979 classic "Willa."
That whole time with the impact you were pulling at enough of an angle that it was wedging itself, basically like crossthreading a bolt. Heating and cooling cycles breaks rust welded connections, heat with a torch and immediately spray it cool with penetrating oil. Do this several times before trying to pull it STRAIGHT off.
Great instructional video on why we use anti seize . A 30 minute job ,becomes an all day project ! A cold Coors hits the spot about now . U still have a ways to get there , I believe u will make it . Have a good one , U earned it !
I haven't had luck when, a puller has 2 legs pulling while one is not. it put's the part in a binde . greater luck pulling evenly - inline - also, wire brush the splines first, before pulling. . Doing away with inpact gun. shortening apparatus. all might make things easier for leading axle. ( must see entire rig in person when completed. )
You know you could paint your door latches silver like you wanted..all you have to do is tape the doors off with paper. Slide it under the latches and tape it on.
Did you know there’s dozens of unreleased episodes on my Patreon? Join today for as little as $1/month to see them all, help support the channel and be entered to win: www.patreon.com/twinstickgarage
The Bishop Bullwinkle was a good touch too.
“It can’t be tight if it’s liquid”
Here's a trick I have used a lot, take your grinder and cut it almost all the way through stopping so you don't damage the shaft. The take a chisel and hit it into the groove you made splitting it and it should pop right off.
Exactly what I would do.
I did that many times. What I don't understand is why he did not do it when it was in the shop instead of worrying about paint right away.
Whewwwwww!!!!!!! I’m tired and in need of a cold coors or a jack and coke 👍👍👍
Just remember a before o or up you go have fun .
now, mark, just imagine how much easier all this would have been if there was no trailer attached to those tandems so you could get right at them...... could have worked in the shop too. i guess this is how you learn your lessons ;) and you literally hammered home the point about using antiseize. Always. even if the instructions don't say so. the next guy will thank you.
It's always nice to see someone struggle with stuff like this to reinforce them that I'm not the only one that goes through those struggles lol
Mark has far more patience than I do. I’d have cut those cams and put in new bushings. Had brand new brakes, less the drums. Cheaper than doing brakes on a pickup truck.
Hunter hey 😮
sometimes a half hour job becomes a 5 hour job. keep it up mark. great video greetings from the netherlands
I couldn’t figure out why you didn’t replace the slack adjusters, S cams , and brake chambers when you had the tandem’s in your shop. Would have been so much easier. I guess some things are learned the hard way. Lol. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks for the great content.
Another great episode Mark! A wire brush hose clamped to an old reciprocating saw blade is a great way to clean splines. Can't wait to see this whole rig done!!!
I don’t mind you working on the trailer. I’m still working on my tank trailer it’s an old Shell fuel tank all ready did the truck 😊
O before A or up you go 😀remember that from high school.
It's heat and quench. You need to get it cherry red then hit it with cold water. This will break the bond.
After all that heat you should change the s-cam bushings at the slack adjusters
Praise The Lord, a torch!
Hey Mark, the S-cam bushings, which are usually plastic, may have been damaged with the amount of heat used on the slacks… I would take those covers off and inspect them.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this video, never could find a good youtube video on how to cut the length on the brake canister rod.
Hi Mark
A little tip when using oxygen - acetylene torch is when switching off the torch you shut off the acetylene first then the oxygen second.
What it is, the oxygen being at a higher pressure actually reduces the risk of a flash back, that's flame's travelling up the hose to the acetylene tank.
I was told to remember first to be ignited is the first to be shut off.
also, if you cut the acetylene off first, your torch is filled with harmless oxygen.
Look at those fancy Manitoba mags!
I think you are supposed to heat the outside component not the shaft, when metal is heated it expands. But I know you will figure it out keep up the good work Mark.
Very true, you want the slack adjuster to expand not the spline shaft.
What can break it loose quickly though is heating and cooling cycles. Heat the whole thing up, then cool it with penetrating oil, and heat and cool several times before pulling.
Thx Mark for sharing your knuckle buster of a job to do.
I foresee a set of S-cams to be installed on that trailer, that was brutel Mark
awsome video mark alot done today great job thumbs up and shared
@7:28 that's a decent crack in the weld down at the lower bumper/crossbeam there, Mark.
Yeah good eye - we’ll fix it 👍
text book ease rarely translates to real life when dealing with equipment lol
I noticed in the movie reference clip at 2:20 there's a striped square outline around the fridge box in the same silver/gray color as the undercarriage. Looks like an easy tape off job! 🤠👍
When metal heats it expands, heating the inside will cause the shaft to expand, heating the outside is generally the way to go.
I love the smell of burning grease in the morning.
Mornin Mark, Always hated doing brakes , BUT you had to learn to do them right weather you liked it or not, is was one of the main operations of any truck that kept you alive. I learned the hard way after a run away up in the Swan hills country. My brakes never out of adjustment again. Great video Mark see you on the next one , Say hello to Mrs. Twin stix for us.
Keep hitting on that cam and you can take the hubs off again. Cam bushing are toast. More washers needed to take up the space on the cam to keep it from going inward.
Yeah I’ll add the shims … just didn’t have any on hand while filming and the s-can bushings are still within tolerance 👍
@@TwinStix ok they look melted , good luck .
Fire wrench makes everything better!
I have been there. I have seen a guy cut the s-cam during the brake job and put in new s-cams because the slack adjusters were stuck on so bad. Awesome video!
Done that 😂
Well done Mark. I could feel your pain with those adjusters.
Hooray, you bought a hot wrench!!!
Mr. Twinsticks. First off I tip my hat to you sir. You are a classy fella. ❤ from pnw oregon
The reason you want to open the oxygen valve all the way is because it is a double seat valve, the packing on the valve handle can not hold against 2000 psi, but the valve all the way open can. Saves on gas.
Heat the outside of the adjuster so it expands. Your heating the shaft making it expand inside the slack adjuster
Haha!! Yeah buddy!!!! Bring the heat!!!
Wooo hoo.. good morning twinsticks garage family 🤎 & y'all...and. I can't get over the inserts and whatnot you use...just hilarious 😂...hell to the naw naw😂.. I've said it before..but you do such a great job on all of your projects...and I appreciate them all ..thank you bunch .whats the best day of the week? .. Thursday of course ..❤️🇨🇦✝️🇺🇸❤️....ps..I always watch till the end😉
Nice...... another project completed!
I do like my blue tip wrench for days like this.
Enjoy watching can’t wait see everything come together
On the automatic slack adjustment, you are very right about not trusting them. If a driver does not apply the brakes properly, push in/off and based on the closeness of the person you might hit or road conditions and the speed your doing, and when he or she lets off that adjustor clicks, just like you said. But if they are quick on the application of the foot valve, on/off, on/off, on/off, that can cause the adjustor to miss a click and then you are out of adjustment.
One trick with those cheap pullers is to weld a little blob on the back of each of the arms. Then when you get it on you can use tie wire or a zip tie on the jaws to keep them closed
Good luck buddy
Good fight with those brakes. You won to fight another day. Looking great.
Love the build! I know you weren't able to quite match the silver paint, but consider looking at the the color "Argent Grey". It was used on a lot of old equipment. It's a silver with a sparkly kinda shine. I think that might be the look you were wanting to match the movie trailer. Keep up the great work!
I really learnt a lot from this episode...great work...cheers down under and down
Mark ... we enjoy ANY and ALL the videos you put up .... don't ever worry about "too many trailer videos", or "too many paint videos" ..... we ENJOY every minute of every one. I am always amazed at the time and effort you put into your projects. Being older and retired, I don't have half the energy you do ... but I got time to watch your videos. Keep up the great work and the great videos !!!
Better than me Mark. The neighbors a mile away would have heard me cussing. Sure you did your fair share off camera lol
boy those where some real sobs to get of , makes it hard work mark, if its not done correctly, cool vid mt, m.
Mark the puller would have been the best solution now you'll find out that you have to pull those S cams and put new bushings and grease seals if they're nylon bushings in there they'll be melted causing a lot of play yes I have been down the road to myself
Greetings from Trinidad, the best thing for those slack adjusters is too spray WD 40 & let it soak overnight. The heat from the torch can damage the cam bushing anyway keep up the good work & keep on trucking mark !
I will say fighting slack adjusters is not fun! Plus when 3 pull off just fine, that last one takes an hour to get off, never fails!
Here at the TA Nationals in Fairborn Oh. A guy has his car trailer wrapped like Snowman’s trailer.
Holy cow, I think the slack adjusters give you more headache than the power steering pump did on LBL.😊
Change your s cam bushings and grease seals would have been the best time to do all this when the Dolly wasn't on the trailer
Just like the olden days, working outside! I suppose you should be happy you are hauling Coors and not Bud Light!😁
I didn't have a torch when I replaced the slack adjusters on a trash truck but a saws all worked out good after the blade was shorten great video and glad you won the battle and stay safe and God bless from GA
Ps use some pb blaster on the rest of them
Another Thursday lunch with Mr Twin Sticks. A bonus is that I have a 45 min lunch this week and the video is 43. Winning.
hello twin stick garage it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
i feel your pain man. the joys of being a mechanic 😂
I have been watching you for 5 years and you are a amazing at building trucks
It sucks that those slack adjusters fought you so hard... but it's nice to see that kind of nonsense doesn't just happen to me. Loving the progress Mark! Thanks for taking us along with you.
I would have to put the other 2 new SA on..all those new parts but those? No can do..that's the Big Ennis and Little Ennis short cut
Dear TwinStickGarage Mark P.
👍👌👏 Maaan, what a struggle! I'm glad that you succeeded. Congratulations!🎉 Often times heat is mechanics best friend. The new brake chambers etc. are looking great. I'm eagerly looking forward to see the next video.
As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and especially health to all of you.
can't wait to see snowman at Lesco
6:55 "some LED lights"......... Oooooo, that ain't movie correct!!!
Looking good marc comeing along
You need a rosebud tip for that torch
Also, when setting the slack adjusters 1/4 turn is usually too tight, 1/2 turn is usually pretty bang on, its supposed to be measured, put air to the park brakes to release them, mark the pushrod, set your slack adjuster 1/2 turn back from applied to start, then dump the air to apply the park brake, now measure from the base of the brake pot to your original mark, spec is between 1” 1.5” of travel, and it cannot be more than 1/4” difference from the left to right,
You should get a long barrel air chisel . They really help breaking things like that loose. Just don't get a short barrel one they don't hit as hard.
In hindsight, when that tandem was sitting in the garage, and you were doing the brakes, that’s when you should’ve beat them suckers off of there. Also those cam bushings are toast after all that heating and beating. 🤦🏻♂️
Really coming together now Marc, bravo for sticking at it.
I drove for a rock quarry. Our mechanics were kings on swear words when they would do brakes on our rigs. I commend you for keeping it PG. I feel for you, man
Absolutely love following this journey.👌
Great Video
I've had to remove plenty of stuck "never greased" slack adjusters and your best bet is to heat it up and take your grease gun and fill it till It pours out then heat it again till it melts the grease and repeat it will come off eventually
With that puller on crooked it could binding, I’d use a ratchet and make sure it’s pulling straight, also not supposed to heat break components like that lol, technically s cams should be replaced now, and those s cam bushings are more than likely melted with that much heat, they are usually plastic or nylon bushings,
Man ! Am I ever glad I am retired ! Good fighting Mark !!
OMG Good buy Mr Twinsticks, I can't believe you wrenched on old semis for years without an acetylene torch!
Congrats Mark, on getting those back brake parts off and new ones back-on.
When you test the trailer brakes would be cool to see you lock the down going down the road like on the movie 😂
🤔
Mother natures loc tite!!! Russsssst
Nice work! I'm proud of you, you have turned a piece of "crap" to gold. Not many people have that drive. Respect. Regards from Sweden.
Blimey mate that was seriously attached! And good call on leaving the front adjusters in place. As long as they take grease they should be fine.
These are the hard yards that people at shows never see and simply do not appreciate.
But we do and there was a mighty 'YESSS!' when that thing popped off on this side of the pond!
Brake chambers.
This was, well I'm going to say how much all this was!🤣😂
Try and have your oxy kit as far away from the flame as possible. Have the hoses fully straight
Mark, your patience was tested with these brakes, but you prevailed! Thanks for the video it was educational. Looks forward to the future videos with the trailer.
I know the frustration, I had one on a log trailer
Well that looked like a fun job.
Slack adjusters or king pins? Pick your ☠️ Poison 😂
Enjoy your videos so much, and it always inspires me to watch one of the many trucking movies. Today, after your video, I watched the 1979 classic "Willa."
That whole time with the impact you were pulling at enough of an angle that it was wedging itself, basically like crossthreading a bolt.
Heating and cooling cycles breaks rust welded connections, heat with a torch and immediately spray it cool with penetrating oil. Do this several times before trying to pull it STRAIGHT off.
Great instructional video on why we use anti seize . A 30 minute job ,becomes an all day project ! A cold Coors hits the spot about now . U still have a ways to get there , I believe u will make it . Have a good one , U earned it !
I haven't had luck when, a puller has 2 legs pulling while one is not. it put's the part in a binde . greater luck pulling evenly - inline - also, wire brush the splines first, before pulling. . Doing away with inpact gun. shortening apparatus. all might make things easier for leading axle. ( must see entire rig in person when completed. )
You know you could paint your door latches silver like you wanted..all you have to do is tape the doors off with paper. Slide it under the latches and tape it on.