Thanks Mark working on my ‘90 Indy Trail 488fan this video helped a lot, carbs were dirty and out of sync. Runs like a champ. Next up is to fix my ‘88 488.
If you haven't already, set your jet needle clips into the third notch from the top. At that setting you will be close to stoich at 0 degrees fahrenheit at Sea Level. So anything above either of those you will begin to run on the rich side, just a bit, but enough to keep those motors happy for a very long time!
Thanks Mark, bought a 94 trail Indy deluxe, hose lines were cracked and leaking, long story short previous owner cranked up the fuel so it would run. Once I replaced the fuel lines it was running tooo rich. Watched your vid a couple times and was able to get mine going! Thanks for your video bud, appreciate ya. Braaap from Fairbanks, Alaska!
Glad to hear it. Contemplating a new video that better explains these carbs and how they are supposed to work, in addition to the ones I've already made. Thank you for the comment!
Mark Young - Outside The Box Only thing that wasn’t clear to me, from your video. (I’m a rookie with carbs) was where the idle screw was suppose to make contact. Couldn’t really feel the spot where it made contact. Tried it at a couple different depths then realized I needed to screw in a little more till I could see the sleeve move up some. Thanks again!
I'm glad to hear it, Dale! I am still using all of the carb and oil settings shown in my videos and it is performing flawlessly. I went on a 90 mile ride 4 days ago, got about 15 miles per gallon, and would not change a thing.
Yes, Joshua, to start. As long as you don't ride in temperatures much over 35 degrees, try running with the clip in ring position 3 on the needles. If it warms up to say around 40 your sled will start to bog as though it's too lean when actually it's running too rich for the less dense warm air. 35 and lower you should be just fine. Start with the air screws at one turn out from all the way in. Experiment with turning them out more, both the same, to see if the RPMs go up or down. The goal is to get the fastest idle using those screws to find the perfect mix of air and fuel for that temperature air. Then adjust your idle screws if necessary to bring the idle to around 1,600 to 1,800. Check your spark plug for too rich or too lean readings.
As for the needle clip, I would start at position 3. Both of my Mikuni sleds are set to 3 and I like the way they run and the color of the spark plugs. As for the air screw, start at 1 turn out from gently finding fully closed. This is an air screw meaning it regulates how much air mixes with the fuel at idle. I set mine a little on the rich side, which is to say less air added. This helps it idle high on cold start and automatically idle down on warm up. It also helps with idle temperature of the cylinders when hot. Rich is better.
That's not a lot to go by, and it could be a number of things. Spark plugs, CDI Ignition, fuel. When did it start doing this? Was there a time it was running ok?
@@contact4mwy7 i have a tundra lt 550f 2018 sport. Whats the correct adjustments for the carbs? Can u help me find it. I cant find it anywhere. I really want to get my skidoo going
Yes, that's the recommended starting point. Have the track off the ground just in case the clutch engages. Then adjust both idle screws together until you are up to the recommended idle speed for your snowmobile. My 1996 Ski Doo Touring LE 440 has a recommended idle speed of 1,650 rpm. Thanks for asking!
@@marktesmer212 Yes, turn Clockwise until the screws touch the slide Piston and stop there before the Piston rises. Then turn Clockwise 2 turns to at least have the motor running on its own. Chances are you will have to turn them Clockwise a bit more to come up to the recommended idle speed.
He mentioned that with the ethanol gasoline’s the needle clip should be in the 3rd groove from the top instead of the factory setting at the 2nd groove. Has anyone tried this? This will make it run richer - correct ?
Yes it will make it richer than the second groove. I have found since this video was made that some manufacturers recommend the third groove as a starting point. Unless you are at a high elevation or warmer temperatures. Give it a try and see how it runs for you.
If these are Mikuni carbs, yes it should. If you can download a shop manual for your machine it should tell you what the recommended setting is for it. Check your spark plugs from time to time to make sure the fuel/air mix is correct.
I've got a 94 polaris indy sport 440 sks and it idles super low. I did the exact procedure my snowmobile recommends 1.25 turns out on the air screws. Then I did 2 turns out on the idle screw. My snowmobile either idles too low, or it idles too fast and doesnt drop down. I think the carbs just need to be cleaned, the idle has been getting worse each season for the last few years.
I've dealt with that issue as well. I kept adjusting the idle up and down until I found a setting I could live with. It seemed to hang on high idle when the motor was hot, then it would idle down on its own after a few minutes. Sound familiar? I have to wonder if I have a crank seal leak or faulty intake boot as a possible culprit? The plugs look normal, so I just go with it for now.
Tim, use your finger pressed against the piston to feel the moment it starts to move up as you adjust the screw. It may take a few tries backing it out and trying again to get the feel for it.
I have a 94 Polaris XLT SP and it doesn't idle at all, if i try to let it idle it will just die. I tried playing with the idle adjustment and it didn't do anything for the idle, but i did notice a difference in performance and starting. Any ideas on on why it might not want to idle or if it could just be an idle adjustment? Should i try re-tune all 3 carbs from scratch?
Hello Nic, my first question is are you sure you were adjusting the idle screw and not the fuel/air mix screws? By turning the idle screws "in" as though you were tightening the screw there will be a point at which the idle will start to increase. The more you turn it from that point the faster the engine will go, even to a point that it would be idling too fast making it dangerous to operate. I have not worked on a triple carb setup yet, so I do not know if yours has 3 separate idle screws or one "master" idle screw. ? If your problems continue give in and take it to a shop that is familiar with them to have it adjusted properly so you can get out on the snow and enjoy it!
Great video .. I have an old 337cc 2 stroke yamaha that will only start If i floor it and run Great until you turn it off. once you shut her down it'll flood out and gas starts coming out the exhaust any advice?
This could be due to a bad float system inside the carb. If the float does not cut off the flow of fuel into the carb it will make its way into the engine. This is not good for an oil injection motor because that fuel does not have oil mixed into it, which means the parts inside the motor are not getting lubed (very bad). The two things about float failure to check are that the float has not cracked or developed a hole in it, and the other is that the needle and seat (the main valve that the float operates that stops the flow of fuel) is either worn or dirty. There is a device that is pointed on the end (the needle) that fits into a hole where the fuel enters the carb (the seat). These are both fairly easy to replace as a matching set. Always replace both as a set, never just one or the other. Another thing to check, as this happened to me, is if there is a fuel pump that has a vacuum hose attached to the engine block, to gently pull that hose off the engine and check for fuel inside it. There shouldn't be any. If there is, your problem is a cracked diaphragm inside the fuel pump allowing fuel to be sucked into the base of the engine (this is also very bad). The fix is to replace or rebuild the fuel pump.
hi mark young I have a 1993 Polaris Indy 440 liquid cooled. it idles fine. and rides but when u give it fill throttle it starts to get sluggish on top end and suggestions would be helpful
Sluggish like it is making more of a "bogging" sound? Based on what I know of the Mikuni carbs (which I am assuming you also have on your sled) I would inspect the positions of the main needle jets inside each carb as these control the fuel/air mix for around 1/4 throttle to wide-open. I have a video showing me checking them on my sled, here: ruclips.net/video/DE-vlB1eLiU/видео.html Let me know what position your "e-clip" is in if you open yours up. Removing the e-clip (be careful not to drop it, it's tiny) and replacing it in a higher number slot will feed more fuel to the air (if the mix is too lean) and may solve your bogging symptoms. This could go in the other direction if you are already in a higher number slot which may be giving too much fuel to the air, meaning too rich.
at beginning of video when you say your putting tension on slide.. are you pushing it upwards? or backwards to hold in place? just trying to understand when to push on slide to do this... AWESOME VIDEO BTW
Mark, I'm pushing it against the back of the carb., not up. This holds it in place just enough to feel the difference when the cable slack is removed, and tension is applied to the cable. This is done to both of them to get the same result, matching them up close enough to make further adjustments from there. Good luck with yours, take your time, and thanks for the compliment! My sled still starts and runs great, refusing to show its age.
Quick question. I changed my stock reeds to boyesen reeds and am running a hair lean now. Would i turn the air/fuel screw in or out to fatten it up some?
Hello Grant. Here's how the air screws work... Turn them Clockwise (in) results in less air, more fuel. Turning them Counterclockwise (out) increases air, less fuel. In your case turning them in will fatten the mixture up, but only from idle to quarter throttle open. From quarter throttle to three quarter open the clip on the needle is at play. Grooves higher up towards the very end are for leaner mixes, and grooves further down from the top fatten the mixture. As for changing wide open throttle you would have to replace the main jet with a bigger number one to fatten the mixture. I hope this answers your question! I have another video that goes over adjustment of the clip on the needle and how to get to it. I have found that some carbs have Phillip screws that hold the plate together where the needle is mounted.
+Richard Demers You have a 1990 Polaris Indy 650 triple, with the EC65PL-01 engine, 3 VM38SS carbs, main jet 260 Hex, pilot jet 45. Recommended settings: Air jet out 1.0 turn, needle jet E-Clip position "3", and idle speed set to 1,990 RPM. (according to my manual).
Mark, to be clear....when you say screw the idle adjustment screw IN until it contacts that throttle piston, do you then mean to mark the screw at TDC and screw it in two MORE full turns? I cannot find the factory service manual anywhere....and the Clymers is not as good as the factory manual.
Turn the screw out a few turns to be sure it is no longer touching the sliding piston. As you slowly screw it back in, take notice of stopping exactly when the screw makes contact with the piston once again. You do not want to keep going in past that point as the piston will begin to rise (which would increase idle). That is why I carefully checked this a few times, just to be sure that what I was feeling was the screw contacting the piston, and STOP right there. I then marked the top of the screw with the permanent marker so that I could keep track of how many turns IN I made, which was 2 to start with. This raised the piston slide up just slightly for the engine to idle. This also meant that I could repeat the same procedure for both sides with the same result!! Make sure your track is off the ground when doing this, just in case it wants to run away, and good luck!
I have a 76 Arctic cat jag 340, and it will only idle on half choke, and if I take it off half choke it will rev up and slow down and die, what's wrong?
It sounds like it is running too lean without the choke lever, and too rich with it at half (which is why it revs up after releasing the choke) in my opinion. Check where the air mix screw is adjusted to as in how many turns out it is. If it is one turn or less it may not be the issue here. Still, it is starving for fuel somewhere, so if the mix screw can't solve the problem, the next thing I would do is remove the carb and clean it out, every passageway, using a thin wire (guitar strings work good for this), to make sure there isn't something blocking fuel from getting where it's supposed to go. Carburetors are very finicky beasts. When gas and air go through in the precise amounts it is supposed to, life is good. When it doesn't, time to dig in and find out why.
Hello Jake, seeing your post just now, sorry for the delay. There could be a few things wrong with it. It could be getting an air leak from a crack in the carb boot or a bad crank seal. Check the rubber carb boot and any gaskets for them for cracks or gaps. Hopefully this is just a dirty carb problem, which thanks to ethanol being added to our fuel, seems to be a fairly common issue. Take the carb(s) off and either you or someone who is familiar with this work should take them completely apart, clean everything out, replace parts that are worn, and reassemble them.
Is it flooding in both cylinders or just one? If it's both, check the air mix screws by taking note of the position of the flat blade slot on the screw (as if it were a blade on a clock) and turning the screw IN (gently) until it stops. How many turns did it go.... half a turn, a whole turn, 3/4 of a turn? Once you find that out, turn it back out the same amount and add another 1/4 turn, which will add more air to the mix. Do this to both carbs. Try starting it. If it is still flooding, add another 1/4 turn out to both and try again. If this doesn't cure it, look to other sources such as fuel enricher plungers (choke) that have gone bad or are out of adjustment. I have another video that shows how to set the plungers properly if you go to my page. NOTE: If it is one cylinder, particularly the clutch side cylinder, you may have a burst diaphragm in your fuel pump which is letting fuel travel through the vacuum line directly into the crankcase of that cylinder, which is very bad as there is no oil mix with that fuel, it is just straight fuel. I had this problem on mine which is why I had to reset everything back to specs from all of the trial and error of finding the problem of why mine was flooding at idle on the clutch side cylinder. I'm lucky I didn't lose that piston.
son has 90 340 run weak last yr.. so I put new top end in it.. now won't run without choke on. clean carbs.. never had this problem on any of my sleds. it just one carb doing it. choke off I can spray gas in that carb runs fair.. help please
+michael littlejohn These are just guesses, but maybe a fuel pump issue? Are you sure every little tube and channel inside the carb is totally clean? I use old guitar strings to fish my way through the little openings to make sure any dirt or fuel varnish is pushed out. Make sure you can see light through the jet(s) by taking them out. Check the float level and the needle and seat area, make sure it's not sticking closed. The "choke" on these Mikuni carbs is really an enrichner circuit, it opens a passageway to allow for more fuel to be dumped into the carb for cold starting. So if it only runs with the choke on then it is starving for fuel. You need to find where it is being blocked.
hey I'm having high idle issues with my 96 XLT triple . it's not the same engine the engine now is a 2003 500cc twin I believe not sure if it's a RMK or SKS ...cannot find the make of moter threw the number on top engine all I know it's a 2003 ...need help please why is it still idling at 4000rpm
There must be an idle speed adjustment on your carb(s) somewhere. If you can't find it, as I am not familiar with the 500cc engines, I recommend contacting a snowmobile shop near you for further assistance.
Key on, kill switch off? I'm only guessing here, but on my 1997 the wires that go to the coil, along with some other wiring, run along the backside of the motor where the carbs are located. There is a connector plug between the coil and the motor that if it becomes unplugged there would be no spark. Other than that it sounds like a wiring issue. Check the wires to the kill switch also.
Sounds like someone before you maybe didn't connect the fuel lines the way they are supposed to be? Is it the correct fuel pump with an output line for each carb? I'm trying to understand why there would be a Y fitting or two in there.
also my carburetor has a throttle linkage and then I have another linkage that goes back to the bottom side of the motor what would that linkage be for?
The other linkage runs the valve for your oil injection. As you increase the throttle that linkage increases how much oil to add to the incoming fuel to keep all of the internal parts (pistons, bearings) lubricated. Without lubrication the parts would run metal-on-metal until they seized up or broke, leading to total engine failure.
hi i have a 1997 arctic cat puma 2 up and it doesn't idle unless i open the throttle a little bit do you know what would be the problem i tried adjusting it didnt help unless i pressed the throttle a little bit is it that the throttle cable is to small i dont know whats wrong.
Not an "expert opinion" but this sounds to me as though the idle screw (or screws if you have two carbs) is not turned IN enough. I just saw a video of a guy cleaning a carb off a Arctic Cat Puma 340 (year unknown to me) and saw that there is a screw on the side of the carb body with a spring around it to provide resistance to turning on its own. It has a slot for a flat screwdriver, and the edges of the screw have little grooves to help to turn it by fingers. Now, try turning that screw (or screws if you have two carbs) IN as though you are tightening the screw, by a quarter (1/4) turn and run the motor. If it still doesn't idle, turn it IN another quarter (1/4) turn and try again. It's up to you how many times you turn the screw(s) in, just make sure if you have 2 carbs you do this the same for each. At some point, you may in fact turn them in so far that when you start it the sled could try to lurch forward by engaging the clutch, so be prepared to shut it down immediately!!! Or (recommended) do this with the track OFF THE GROUND to prevent this from happening!!! Let me know how you make out!
Here is the video, at 15:45 into the video he goes about removing the IDLE SCREW. You don't have to pay attention to how many turns he is giving it to make sure to put it back in the same amount, just for reference on where it is and what it looks like so that you are turning the right one! ruclips.net/video/dtw6HJ80zYE/видео.html
Mark Young i just figured it out well the carb was totally fine it was the throttle handle when i push the throttle handle down not pressing it in to accelerate pressing it down i just shuts off but when i push it upwards it idles fine
Hi I did this on my arctic cat triple sled. I wanted it to idle a little lower, but I screwed up and did not set them to idle equally. Now it backfires reving up, and makes a knock sounding noise at idle. Any ideas how to equally set them and why it backfires? Thanks
The backfiring and knocking sound is not something I am familiar with. How was it running before you made the adjustments? Could one carburetor be farther off than the other two at this point, causing the backfiring and knocking sound? I would start over and adjust all three carbs idle screws the same to 'synch them up again.' Check all three spark plugs to see if one looks really different than the other two, and keep track of which cylinder each plug came from. Don't mix them up. Then you'll know which carburetor is giving you trouble. Keep me posted.
Mark Young - Outside The Box thanks for the quick reply. I synced them to what I thought was equal, cleaned the plugs, and added a new air filter since the previous one was garbage. After all that, it seems to run well, but I’m stuck with my sled still idling at 2100rpm. I’ll keep trying to make it run a bit less rich by the method in the video. I think one piston is still not perfect, but should do. It’s pretty difficult with it being a triple but not impossible. Thanks for your help.
@@elitegmer9377 2,100 rpm may sound fast because it's a triple? If the spark plugs were black as coal, then it could be running a little Rich. Just go easy on leaning it out, especially in the slow speed range as oil injection relies on the fuel more for lube at low rpms. A little rich on the low end also should give it a good launch when you snap the throttle. Just remember this, always read your spark plugs to "know" what the air fuel mix is. Never by feel or sound alone.
Mark Young - Outside The Box thanks for your opinion. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, but not two stroke sleds. I went to start it and there’s gas where the bottom part of the block is, and won’t start. I understand if you have no clue what it is because this is going beyond what the contents of the video were about. Any opinions or thoughts would still be greatly appreciated.
@@elitegmer9377 a float might be stuck open on one of the carbs causing it to overflow. See if any of the carbs has gas dripping from the bottom. Be careful of the potential for fire.
Hey mark i have. 1998 ski doo summitJust gone through it got the carbs and fuel pump cleaned and my sled only wants to run with idle screws all the way turned in any input?It almost runs perfect with them all the way in alsoOnly starts with throttle open
Hello Darrion, that does sound a bit odd. My first question would be how is the compression of the pistons? Are the head gaskets ok? How do they intake boots that the carbs attach to the motor look, are there any cracks? There could also be a problem with the crankshaft seals on each end of the motor, possibly. That's not that old of a sled to have much going wrong. I wish I were more in the know with that sled, but I would start with a compression check of the pistons first. Have it looked at before something goes really wrong and takes the motor with it, which might mean swapping out the motor.
If it's the vacuum line that goes between the motor base and the fuel pump, it's worth checking out the fuel pump diaphragms to see if one has cracked or has a pinhole in it. That's what happened with mine, so I bought new diaphragms and rebuilt it.
The screw on the side with the large head to it. It's the screw that is at the base of the column that the throttle piston slides up and down in. Only turn the screw IN (as though your are tightening it) of 1/4 turn increments at a time and try it out. If it still isn't high enough, turn it another 1/4 turn, and so on until it is where you want it to be. For my motor the recommendation is 2,000 RPM.
Doug Bailey I turned both screws with the springs on them all the way in until they lightly seated. Then I backed them off 1.5 turns and the idle is higher now. Give it a try!
If your carburetors are like the ones on my sled (which I have seen a video of a 1996 Lite Deluxe), with the round piston slide tower pointed up, there should be two screws on one side of each carb. The one with the larger head and a spring wound around it, and is horizontal, should be the idle screw. You should be able to turn this screw with your fingers. The other screw, which is a smaller flat-blade screwdriver screw, is for the idle mixture. Leave this one alone. With the engine warmed up but shut off so you don't get caught in any moving parts, turn the idle screws on both carbs "in" 1/4 turn (as though you are tightening the screw) and run the motor. If it still isn't idling fast enough, turn it in another 1/4 turn and run the motor again. Keep doing this until you have the idle where it should be, but always in 1/4 turn increments on both. Be prepared to keep the sled from taking off on you if you set it too high when you start the motor. I hope this helps you out.
+Dean Peddle I didn't see any issues without the airbox on, but I did put it back on right after I got it where I wanted it. I would not recommend running a sled without the airbox all the time as that would invite dirt and hot air into the carbs and motor.
Hello Ty. I learned last season that "boggy" can be both running too lean or too rich. In my case, it was running too rich, and I was only making it worse by trying to make it run richer. It would bog bad right off idle and then come out of it somewhere around half throttle and up. As for your machine, there shouldn't be any gas or oil leaking from the muffler, as you know, at least, if you have had it running for an hour or so after storing it for say the Summer. Mine always smokes thick when I first start it as oil slowly seeps into the crankcase from the oil injection over the Summer. This first start also can deposit oil where the exhaust points to the floor as the exhaust pushes the oil right through the muffler system. So my question would be, how long did you let it run? Has it been doing this even when you are riding several days a week? Or only after sitting for a time?
Mark Young - Hello, ya I noticed to that my ski doo was running rich on oil I put it away For the season but seems to be still running like I had it running for few mins but it would just turn off
Have you had the carbs off to check the float levels in each one? If one, or both, is set too high it will cause the motor to flood. Also, as far as gasoline is concerned, and this happened to me too, remove the vacuum pulse hose that goes from your crankcase (under the clutch-side carb) to the fuel pump (right below where the starter rope comes out of the motor). I had a crack in one of the diaphragms in the fuel pump which let fuel run down the vacuum hose right directly into the crankcase. This is very bad as it can wash the oil from your bearings and even the rings and result in a total motor rebuild if not corrected in time. Take out both plugs and see if they look really sooty and carboned up. If the clutch side plug is right full of carbon/soot and the other plug looks fine, that could be an indicator that fuel is running from the pump into your crankcase. Tell me what the plugs look like when you can. What model sled and size motor is this?
Remove that vacuum hose to check for gasoline inside it. There shouldn't be any, none. Just air. And check at both ends. I checked at one end and didn't see any, so ruled that out. Later, after buying and replacing many carb parts, I checked the other end and gas dripped out. There was my problem!
Thanks for the video! I have 2 1997 Polaris Indy Trails myself and this could definitely fix the idle problems. Like you said, it idles rough at 1500 RPM. I have a question however. After I ride for 5 minutes or longer and I slow to a stop it will idle at 1500 and after a minute will idle way down and cut off. Any suggestions?
The recommended idle speed for my 1988 is 2,000 RPM. 1,500 sounds low to me. Have you tried adjusting both (it is a twin with two carbs, right?) idle screws in a little at a time until it idles at close to 2,000 RPM? I would try that, ride it for 5 minutes or more, and then see where it idles down to. Make sure your brakes are working good in case it idles up beyond that when you are slowing down. I have noticed that my sled does the same thing as you described. After riding for a while and coming to a stop, the idle is higher than 2,000 RPM, and I would open the hood and turn the screws out to lower it. What I have learned is to leave it be and after a minute or so it will idle down on its own. I do not know what causes this to happen, but it almost seems to be on purpose for fan cooling? Someone must know the answer to that!
I removed it and intend on making a new one. I found adjusting the needle jet clip to the 3rd groove "due to ethanol in the fuel" is really not an issue as it was making my sled bog due to the mix being too rich! Here I thought bogs were only caused by a too lean condition, but learned to "read the spark plugs" to determine what is really going on with the mix. My plugs we black and covered with soot. I moved the clip back to the factory setting "2nd groove down from the top" and the bog went away and the thing rips now. Go figure. Are you having an issue with yours?
I feel like your trying to save yourself from the RUclips police. Lol. Dude, if ya don't have it off the ground or a door open that's your choice. The critics can talk all they want
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Thanks Mark working on my ‘90 Indy Trail 488fan this video helped a lot, carbs were dirty and out of sync. Runs like a champ. Next up is to fix my ‘88 488.
If you haven't already, set your jet needle clips into the third notch from the top. At that setting you will be close to stoich at 0 degrees fahrenheit at Sea Level. So anything above either of those you will begin to run on the rich side, just a bit, but enough to keep those motors happy for a very long time!
@@contact4mwy7 Awesome thanks will see what they are at and set them up now!
Thanks Mark, bought a 94 trail Indy deluxe, hose lines were cracked and leaking, long story short previous owner cranked up the fuel so it would run. Once I replaced the fuel lines it was running tooo rich.
Watched your vid a couple times and was able to get mine going!
Thanks for your video bud, appreciate ya.
Braaap from Fairbanks, Alaska!
Glad to hear it. Contemplating a new video that better explains these carbs and how they are supposed to work, in addition to the ones I've already made. Thank you for the comment!
Mark Young - Outside The Box
Only thing that wasn’t clear to me, from your video. (I’m a rookie with carbs) was where the idle screw was suppose to make contact.
Couldn’t really feel the spot where it made contact.
Tried it at a couple different depths then realized I needed to screw in a little more till I could see the sleeve move up some.
Thanks again!
Hi Mark, I just watched your video on adjusting idle and air screw it helped me a lot tks
I'm glad to hear it, Dale! I am still using all of the carb and oil settings shown in my videos and it is performing flawlessly. I went on a 90 mile ride 4 days ago, got about 15 miles per gallon, and would not change a thing.
I have a 97 Polaris supersport 488 fan would my carb settings be the same as yours?
Yes, Joshua, to start. As long as you don't ride in temperatures much over 35 degrees, try running with the clip in ring position 3 on the needles. If it warms up to say around 40 your sled will start to bog as though it's too lean when actually it's running too rich for the less dense warm air. 35 and lower you should be just fine. Start with the air screws at one turn out from all the way in. Experiment with turning them out more, both the same, to see if the RPMs go up or down. The goal is to get the fastest idle using those screws to find the perfect mix of air and fuel for that temperature air. Then adjust your idle screws if necessary to bring the idle to around 1,600 to 1,800. Check your spark plug for too rich or too lean readings.
@@contact4mwy7 ok awesome I appreciate the reply and information I'll go out today and mess with it somore
I have a 1999 skidoo formula dlx 380 can't find my carburetor settings any help?
As for the needle clip, I would start at position 3. Both of my Mikuni sleds are set to 3 and I like the way they run and the color of the spark plugs. As for the air screw, start at 1 turn out from gently finding fully closed. This is an air screw meaning it regulates how much air mixes with the fuel at idle. I set mine a little on the rich side, which is to say less air added. This helps it idle high on cold start and automatically idle down on warm up. It also helps with idle temperature of the cylinders when hot. Rich is better.
My skidoo keeps back fires really loud and no power. It makes loud pops when i try to get it going then dies. Any ideas?
That's not a lot to go by, and it could be a number of things. Spark plugs, CDI Ignition, fuel. When did it start doing this? Was there a time it was running ok?
@@contact4mwy7 i have a tundra lt 550f 2018 sport. Whats the correct adjustments for the carbs? Can u help me find it. I cant find it anywhere. I really want to get my skidoo going
do you have any videos how to bleed the injection oil pump of air or air bubbles in the polaris snow mobile
1 screw on top of pump
Thanks I have a 1995 arctic cat cougar and I just got new carbs and I did not know what to do.
Rdevil636 well ya you just gotta sell ur cat and get a polaris
Peyton Thomas well when you get it for free😂
So you turn the big screw all the way in and then back them out two turns after marking? Correct
Yes, that's the recommended starting point. Have the track off the ground just in case the clutch engages. Then adjust both idle screws together until you are up to the recommended idle speed for your snowmobile. My 1996 Ski Doo Touring LE 440 has a recommended idle speed of 1,650 rpm. Thanks for asking!
It runs great but have to keep on the throttle to prevent from dying..so I'm hoping this will help
@@contact4mwy7 wait I have it wrong turn them in clockwise till they touch..then turn twice clockwise again? Some more?
@@marktesmer212 Yes, turn Clockwise until the screws touch the slide Piston and stop there before the Piston rises. Then turn Clockwise 2 turns to at least have the motor running on its own. Chances are you will have to turn them Clockwise a bit more to come up to the recommended idle speed.
He mentioned that with the ethanol gasoline’s the needle clip should be in the 3rd groove from the top instead of the factory setting at the 2nd groove.
Has anyone tried this? This will make it run richer - correct ?
Yes it will make it richer than the second groove. I have found since this video was made that some manufacturers recommend the third groove as a starting point. Unless you are at a high elevation or warmer temperatures. Give it a try and see how it runs for you.
@@contact4mwy7
Ok thanks would you recommend the third groove for the Indy 500 liquid cooled as well?
Yes, but check the condition of the plugs after a good run. Real black looking go to groove #2.
would this method work on a 550 fan cooled machine as well ? will the 1 turn back apply too, on the air idle screw?
If these are Mikuni carbs, yes it should. If you can download a shop manual for your machine it should tell you what the recommended setting is for it. Check your spark plugs from time to time to make sure the fuel/air mix is correct.
I've got a 94 polaris indy sport 440 sks and it idles super low. I did the exact procedure my snowmobile recommends 1.25 turns out on the air screws. Then I did 2 turns out on the idle screw. My snowmobile either idles too low, or it idles too fast and doesnt drop down. I think the carbs just need to be cleaned, the idle has been getting worse each season for the last few years.
I've dealt with that issue as well. I kept adjusting the idle up and down until I found a setting I could live with. It seemed to hang on high idle when the motor was hot, then it would idle down on its own after a few minutes. Sound familiar? I have to wonder if I have a crank seal leak or faulty intake boot as a possible culprit? The plugs look normal, so I just go with it for now.
i couldn't get the feel of the idle screw touching the piston slide kind of feels the same hmmm what can I do? i did the air screw right
Tim, use your finger pressed against the piston to feel the moment it starts to move up as you adjust the screw. It may take a few tries backing it out and trying again to get the feel for it.
@@contact4mwy7 ok now i get it working on them right now thank you partner!!!
@@timmberthy Awesome, good luck to you!
would this be same for a 2001 polaris edge 550 ss snowmachine? Same brand carbs..
If they are the same types of carbs, I would say yes. See if you can find a service manual online.
I have a 94 Polaris XLT SP and it doesn't idle at all, if i try to let it idle it will just die. I tried playing with the idle adjustment and it didn't do anything for the idle, but i did notice a difference in performance and starting. Any ideas on on why it might not want to idle or if it could just be an idle adjustment? Should i try re-tune all 3 carbs from scratch?
Hello Nic, my first question is are you sure you were adjusting the idle screw and not the fuel/air mix screws? By turning the idle screws "in" as though you were tightening the screw there will be a point at which the idle will start to increase. The more you turn it from that point the faster the engine will go, even to a point that it would be idling too fast making it dangerous to operate. I have not worked on a triple carb setup yet, so I do not know if yours has 3 separate idle screws or one "master" idle screw. ? If your problems continue give in and take it to a shop that is familiar with them to have it adjusted properly so you can get out on the snow and enjoy it!
Great video ..
I have an old 337cc 2 stroke yamaha that will only start If i floor it and run Great until you turn it off. once you shut her down it'll flood out and gas starts coming out the exhaust any advice?
This could be due to a bad float system inside the carb. If the float does not cut off the flow of fuel into the carb it will make its way into the engine. This is not good for an oil injection motor because that fuel does not have oil mixed into it, which means the parts inside the motor are not getting lubed (very bad). The two things about float failure to check are that the float has not cracked or developed a hole in it, and the other is that the needle and seat (the main valve that the float operates that stops the flow of fuel) is either worn or dirty. There is a device that is pointed on the end (the needle) that fits into a hole where the fuel enters the carb (the seat). These are both fairly easy to replace as a matching set. Always replace both as a set, never just one or the other. Another thing to check, as this happened to me, is if there is a fuel pump that has a vacuum hose attached to the engine block, to gently pull that hose off the engine and check for fuel inside it. There shouldn't be any. If there is, your problem is a cracked diaphragm inside the fuel pump allowing fuel to be sucked into the base of the engine (this is also very bad). The fix is to replace or rebuild the fuel pump.
I had this happen on my old indy 488 and it wound up being a crack in one of the diaphragms in my fuel pump
how do you get a shop manual? I have a 2009 polaris IQ Shift 600. Just wondering how to find specs to adjust the carburetor
I had to find mine online using Google. Some are free, some are buy only.
hi mark young I have a 1993 Polaris Indy 440 liquid cooled. it idles fine. and rides but when u give it fill throttle it starts to get sluggish on top end and suggestions would be helpful
Sluggish like it is making more of a "bogging" sound? Based on what I know of the Mikuni carbs (which I am assuming you also have on your sled) I would inspect the positions of the main needle jets inside each carb as these control the fuel/air mix for around 1/4 throttle to wide-open. I have a video showing me checking them on my sled, here: ruclips.net/video/DE-vlB1eLiU/видео.html Let me know what position your "e-clip" is in if you open yours up. Removing the e-clip (be careful not to drop it, it's tiny) and replacing it in a higher number slot will feed more fuel to the air (if the mix is too lean) and may solve your bogging symptoms. This could go in the other direction if you are already in a higher number slot which may be giving too much fuel to the air, meaning too rich.
Mark Young thank you for ur advice I shall try that today as I replace my track
Replacing your track too? I know that's not fun, but it will be worth it when you're done! Good luck, keep me posted.
at beginning of video when you say your putting tension on slide.. are you pushing it upwards? or backwards to hold in place? just trying to understand when to push on slide to do this... AWESOME VIDEO BTW
Mark, I'm pushing it against the back of the carb., not up. This holds it in place just enough to feel the difference when the cable slack is removed, and tension is applied to the cable. This is done to both of them to get the same result, matching them up close enough to make further adjustments from there. Good luck with yours, take your time, and thanks for the compliment! My sled still starts and runs great, refusing to show its age.
Quick question. I changed my stock reeds to boyesen reeds and am running a hair lean now. Would i turn the air/fuel screw in or out to fatten it up some?
Hello Grant. Here's how the air screws work... Turn them Clockwise (in) results in less air, more fuel. Turning them Counterclockwise (out) increases air, less fuel. In your case turning them in will fatten the mixture up, but only from idle to quarter throttle open. From quarter throttle to three quarter open the clip on the needle is at play. Grooves higher up towards the very end are for leaner mixes, and grooves further down from the top fatten the mixture. As for changing wide open throttle you would have to replace the main jet with a bigger number one to fatten the mixture. I hope this answers your question! I have another video that goes over adjustment of the clip on the needle and how to get to it. I have found that some carbs have Phillip screws that hold the plate together where the needle is mounted.
@@contact4mwy7 Thanks, Mark.
can u look im that book an see what it be for a 1990 indy 650 triple carbs need to be set at
+Richard Demers I'll take a look to see if it is listed in my manual, Richard.
+Richard Demers You have a 1990 Polaris Indy 650 triple, with the EC65PL-01 engine, 3 VM38SS carbs, main jet 260 Hex, pilot jet 45. Recommended settings: Air jet out 1.0 turn, needle jet E-Clip position "3", and idle speed set to 1,990 RPM. (according to my manual).
Mark, to be clear....when you say screw the idle adjustment screw IN until it contacts that throttle piston, do you then mean to mark the screw at TDC and screw it in two MORE full turns? I cannot find the factory service manual anywhere....and the Clymers is not as good as the factory manual.
Turn the screw out a few turns to be sure it is no longer touching the sliding piston. As you slowly screw it back in, take notice of stopping exactly when the screw makes contact with the piston once again. You do not want to keep going in past that point as the piston will begin to rise (which would increase idle). That is why I carefully checked this a few times, just to be sure that what I was feeling was the screw contacting the piston, and STOP right there. I then marked the top of the screw with the permanent marker so that I could keep track of how many turns IN I made, which was 2 to start with. This raised the piston slide up just slightly for the engine to idle. This also meant that I could repeat the same procedure for both sides with the same result!! Make sure your track is off the ground when doing this, just in case it wants to run away, and good luck!
I have a 76 Arctic cat jag 340, and it will only idle on half choke, and if I take it off half choke it will rev up and slow down and die, what's wrong?
It sounds like it is running too lean without the choke lever, and too rich with it at half (which is why it revs up after releasing the choke) in my opinion. Check where the air mix screw is adjusted to as in how many turns out it is. If it is one turn or less it may not be the issue here. Still, it is starving for fuel somewhere, so if the mix screw can't solve the problem, the next thing I would do is remove the carb and clean it out, every passageway, using a thin wire (guitar strings work good for this), to make sure there isn't something blocking fuel from getting where it's supposed to go. Carburetors are very finicky beasts. When gas and air go through in the precise amounts it is supposed to, life is good. When it doesn't, time to dig in and find out why.
Hello Jake, seeing your post just now, sorry for the delay. There could be a few things wrong with it. It could be getting an air leak from a crack in the carb boot or a bad crank seal. Check the rubber carb boot and any gaskets for them for cracks or gaps. Hopefully this is just a dirty carb problem, which thanks to ethanol being added to our fuel, seems to be a fairly common issue. Take the carb(s) off and either you or someone who is familiar with this work should take them completely apart, clean everything out, replace parts that are worn, and reassemble them.
Mark Young no worries on the delay! Thanks for the help man, got it running good, it was the carb boot, merry Christmas! Take care
Do you think if I put it to take less fuel it won't flood? My 488 Polaris snowmobile keeps flooding after a pull or two.
Is it flooding in both cylinders or just one? If it's both, check the air mix screws by taking note of the position of the flat blade slot on the screw (as if it were a blade on a clock) and turning the screw IN (gently) until it stops. How many turns did it go.... half a turn, a whole turn, 3/4 of a turn? Once you find that out, turn it back out the same amount and add another 1/4 turn, which will add more air to the mix. Do this to both carbs. Try starting it. If it is still flooding, add another 1/4 turn out to both and try again. If this doesn't cure it, look to other sources such as fuel enricher plungers (choke) that have gone bad or are out of adjustment. I have another video that shows how to set the plungers properly if you go to my page. NOTE: If it is one cylinder, particularly the clutch side cylinder, you may have a burst diaphragm in your fuel pump which is letting fuel travel through the vacuum line directly into the crankcase of that cylinder, which is very bad as there is no oil mix with that fuel, it is just straight fuel. I had this problem on mine which is why I had to reset everything back to specs from all of the trial and error of finding the problem of why mine was flooding at idle on the clutch side cylinder. I'm lucky I didn't lose that piston.
son has 90 340 run weak
last yr.. so I put new top end in it.. now won't run without choke on. clean carbs.. never had this problem
on any of my sleds. it just one carb doing it. choke off I can spray gas in that carb runs fair.. help please
+michael littlejohn These are just guesses, but maybe a fuel pump issue? Are you sure every little tube and channel inside the carb is totally clean? I use old guitar strings to fish my way through the little openings to make sure any dirt or fuel varnish is pushed out. Make sure you can see light through the jet(s) by taking them out. Check the float level and the needle and seat area, make sure it's not sticking closed. The "choke" on these Mikuni carbs is really an enrichner circuit, it opens a passageway to allow for more fuel to be dumped into the carb for cold starting. So if it only runs with the choke on then it is starving for fuel. You need to find where it is being blocked.
hey I'm having high idle issues with my 96 XLT triple . it's not the same engine the engine now is a 2003 500cc twin I believe not sure if it's a RMK or SKS ...cannot find the make of moter threw the number on top engine all I know it's a 2003 ...need help please why is it still idling at 4000rpm
sounds way to high like it's going to blow up ....could you find the right adjustments for both or if you need number I can give to you
There must be an idle speed adjustment on your carb(s) somewhere. If you can't find it, as I am not familiar with the 500cc engines, I recommend contacting a snowmobile shop near you for further assistance.
Mark Young thank you for your response :)
Have 2007 skidoo summit had carbs out put back it now wont fire
Key on, kill switch off? I'm only guessing here, but on my 1997 the wires that go to the coil, along with some other wiring, run along the backside of the motor where the carbs are located. There is a connector plug between the coil and the motor that if it becomes unplugged there would be no spark. Other than that it sounds like a wiring issue. Check the wires to the kill switch also.
@@contact4mwy7 ya I have spark I think it a fuel problem after pump it had a y in the line twice
Thinking breather line
Sounds like someone before you maybe didn't connect the fuel lines the way they are supposed to be? Is it the correct fuel pump with an output line for each carb? I'm trying to understand why there would be a Y fitting or two in there.
@@contact4mwy7 ya I think so but it was running at xmas time than someone took apart now I dont know what line goes where
What jet settings would you recommend for Colorado elevation? Currently using a Rotax 494. Thank you
+Winfield Hong I am not familiar with the Colorado Elevation. What year is it? Does it have the same Mikuni carburetors as my machine?
also my carburetor has a throttle linkage and then I have another linkage that goes back to the bottom side of the motor what would that linkage be for?
The other linkage runs the valve for your oil injection. As you increase the throttle that linkage increases how much oil to add to the incoming fuel to keep all of the internal parts (pistons, bearings) lubricated. Without lubrication the parts would run metal-on-metal until they seized up or broke, leading to total engine failure.
Mark Young thanks for you reply and saving me time I'm going to spend my Christmas working on this bad boy thank you
hi i have a 1997 arctic cat puma 2 up and it doesn't idle unless i open the throttle a little bit do you know what would be the problem i tried adjusting it didnt help unless i pressed the throttle a little bit is it that the throttle cable is to small i dont know whats wrong.
Not an "expert opinion" but this sounds to me as though the idle screw (or screws if you have two carbs) is not turned IN enough. I just saw a video of a guy cleaning a carb off a Arctic Cat Puma 340 (year unknown to me) and saw that there is a screw on the side of the carb body with a spring around it to provide resistance to turning on its own. It has a slot for a flat screwdriver, and the edges of the screw have little grooves to help to turn it by fingers. Now, try turning that screw (or screws if you have two carbs) IN as though you are tightening the screw, by a quarter (1/4) turn and run the motor. If it still doesn't idle, turn it IN another quarter (1/4) turn and try again. It's up to you how many times you turn the screw(s) in, just make sure if you have 2 carbs you do this the same for each. At some point, you may in fact turn them in so far that when you start it the sled could try to lurch forward by engaging the clutch, so be prepared to shut it down immediately!!! Or (recommended) do this with the track OFF THE GROUND to prevent this from happening!!! Let me know how you make out!
Here is the video, at 15:45 into the video he goes about removing the IDLE SCREW. You don't have to pay attention to how many turns he is giving it to make sure to put it back in the same amount, just for reference on where it is and what it looks like so that you are turning the right one! ruclips.net/video/dtw6HJ80zYE/видео.html
Mark Young i just figured it out well the carb was totally fine it was the throttle handle when i push the throttle handle down not pressing it in to accelerate pressing it down i just shuts off but when i push it upwards it idles fine
well i fiddled with it some more that handle thing isnt it its weird cause it seemed to be the issue so im going to fiddle with the iddle screw
great video
Hi I did this on my arctic cat triple sled. I wanted it to idle a little lower, but I screwed up and did not set them to idle equally. Now it backfires reving up, and makes a knock sounding noise at idle. Any ideas how to equally set them and why it backfires? Thanks
The backfiring and knocking sound is not something I am familiar with. How was it running before you made the adjustments? Could one carburetor be farther off than the other two at this point, causing the backfiring and knocking sound? I would start over and adjust all three carbs idle screws the same to 'synch them up again.' Check all three spark plugs to see if one looks really different than the other two, and keep track of which cylinder each plug came from. Don't mix them up. Then you'll know which carburetor is giving you trouble. Keep me posted.
Mark Young - Outside The Box thanks for the quick reply. I synced them to what I thought was equal, cleaned the plugs, and added a new air filter since the previous one was garbage. After all that, it seems to run well, but I’m stuck with my sled still idling at 2100rpm. I’ll keep trying to make it run a bit less rich by the method in the video. I think one piston is still not perfect, but should do. It’s pretty difficult with it being a triple but not impossible. Thanks for your help.
@@elitegmer9377 2,100 rpm may sound fast because it's a triple? If the spark plugs were black as coal, then it could be running a little Rich. Just go easy on leaning it out, especially in the slow speed range as oil injection relies on the fuel more for lube at low rpms. A little rich on the low end also should give it a good launch when you snap the throttle. Just remember this, always read your spark plugs to "know" what the air fuel mix is. Never by feel or sound alone.
Mark Young - Outside The Box thanks for your opinion. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, but not two stroke sleds. I went to start it and there’s gas where the bottom part of the block is, and won’t start. I understand if you have no clue what it is because this is going beyond what the contents of the video were about. Any opinions or thoughts would still be greatly appreciated.
@@elitegmer9377 a float might be stuck open on one of the carbs causing it to overflow. See if any of the carbs has gas dripping from the bottom. Be careful of the potential for fire.
Hey mark i have. 1998 ski doo summitJust gone through it got the carbs and fuel pump cleaned and my sled only wants to run with idle screws all the way turned in any input?It almost runs perfect with them all the way in alsoOnly starts with throttle open
Hello Darrion, that does sound a bit odd. My first question would be how is the compression of the pistons? Are the head gaskets ok? How do they intake boots that the carbs attach to the motor look, are there any cracks? There could also be a problem with the crankshaft seals on each end of the motor, possibly. That's not that old of a sled to have much going wrong. I wish I were more in the know with that sled, but I would start with a compression check of the pistons first. Have it looked at before something goes really wrong and takes the motor with it, which might mean swapping out the motor.
Mark Young thanks for the reply mark
I think we have narrowed it down to fuel pump Flooding motor out
Is it doing that through the vacuum hose or through the carbs?
Mark Young well last night i seen it through the vacuum lines so wasnt sure if floats were being over powerf by fuel and filling everything else
If it's the vacuum line that goes between the motor base and the fuel pump, it's worth checking out the fuel pump diaphragms to see if one has cracked or has a pinhole in it. That's what happened with mine, so I bought new diaphragms and rebuilt it.
I have a 96 polaris indy lite deluxe 340, my snowmobile just idles too low. I want to bring the rpms up, which screw am I supposed to turn?
The screw on the side with the large head to it. It's the screw that is at the base of the column that the throttle piston slides up and down in. Only turn the screw IN (as though your are tightening it) of 1/4 turn increments at a time and try it out. If it still isn't high enough, turn it another 1/4 turn, and so on until it is where you want it to be. For my motor the recommendation is 2,000 RPM.
Neat. I have a 96 polaris indy lite 340 (regular) and it idles so low it stalls. Wonder if this is a common problem.
Doug Bailey I turned both screws with the springs on them all the way in until they lightly seated. Then I backed them off 1.5 turns and the idle is higher now. Give it a try!
If your carburetors are like the ones on my sled (which I have seen a video of a 1996 Lite Deluxe), with the round piston slide tower pointed up, there should be two screws on one side of each carb. The one with the larger head and a spring wound around it, and is horizontal, should be the idle screw. You should be able to turn this screw with your fingers. The other screw, which is a smaller flat-blade screwdriver screw, is for the idle mixture. Leave this one alone. With the engine warmed up but shut off so you don't get caught in any moving parts, turn the idle screws on both carbs "in" 1/4 turn (as though you are tightening the screw) and run the motor. If it still isn't idling fast enough, turn it in another 1/4 turn and run the motor again. Keep doing this until you have the idle where it should be, but always in 1/4 turn increments on both. Be prepared to keep the sled from taking off on you if you set it too high when you start the motor. I hope this helps you out.
rslaser91
Ok to run engine without boots / air box connected?
+Dean Peddle I didn't see any issues without the airbox on, but I did put it back on right after I got it where I wanted it. I would not recommend running a sled without the airbox all the time as that would invite dirt and hot air into the carbs and motor.
Can u put on lil air filters like k&n I have a triple and want to take big air box out
Hello I have a Mach z 583 and it seems to run boggy I noticed Gas And OIL is leaking from the muffler?? Any thoughts
Hello Ty. I learned last season that "boggy" can be both running too lean or too rich. In my case, it was running too rich, and I was only making it worse by trying to make it run richer. It would bog bad right off idle and then come out of it somewhere around half throttle and up. As for your machine, there shouldn't be any gas or oil leaking from the muffler, as you know, at least, if you have had it running for an hour or so after storing it for say the Summer. Mine always smokes thick when I first start it as oil slowly seeps into the crankcase from the oil injection over the Summer. This first start also can deposit oil where the exhaust points to the floor as the exhaust pushes the oil right through the muffler system. So my question would be, how long did you let it run? Has it been doing this even when you are riding several days a week? Or only after sitting for a time?
Mark Young - Hello, ya I noticed to that my ski doo was running rich on oil I put it away For the season but seems to be still running like I had it running for few mins but it would just turn off
It went like this after sitting for about week then I just put it away for summer
Have you had the carbs off to check the float levels in each one? If one, or both, is set too high it will cause the motor to flood. Also, as far as gasoline is concerned, and this happened to me too, remove the vacuum pulse hose that goes from your crankcase (under the clutch-side carb) to the fuel pump (right below where the starter rope comes out of the motor). I had a crack in one of the diaphragms in the fuel pump which let fuel run down the vacuum hose right directly into the crankcase. This is very bad as it can wash the oil from your bearings and even the rings and result in a total motor rebuild if not corrected in time. Take out both plugs and see if they look really sooty and carboned up. If the clutch side plug is right full of carbon/soot and the other plug looks fine, that could be an indicator that fuel is running from the pump into your crankcase. Tell me what the plugs look like when you can. What model sled and size motor is this?
Remove that vacuum hose to check for gasoline inside it. There shouldn't be any, none. Just air. And check at both ends. I checked at one end and didn't see any, so ruled that out. Later, after buying and replacing many carb parts, I checked the other end and gas dripped out. There was my problem!
Thanks for the video! I have 2 1997 Polaris Indy Trails myself and this could definitely fix the idle problems. Like you said, it idles rough at 1500 RPM. I have a question however. After I ride for 5 minutes or longer and I slow to a stop it will idle at 1500 and after a minute will idle way down and cut off. Any suggestions?
The recommended idle speed for my 1988 is 2,000 RPM. 1,500 sounds low to me. Have you tried adjusting both (it is a twin with two carbs, right?) idle screws in a little at a time until it idles at close to 2,000 RPM? I would try that, ride it for 5 minutes or more, and then see where it idles down to. Make sure your brakes are working good in case it idles up beyond that when you are slowing down. I have noticed that my sled does the same thing as you described. After riding for a while and coming to a stop, the idle is higher than 2,000 RPM, and I would open the hood and turn the screws out to lower it. What I have learned is to leave it be and after a minute or so it will idle down on its own. I do not know what causes this to happen, but it almost seems to be on purpose for fan cooling? Someone must know the answer to that!
Mark Young. Ok thanks I'll try that today.
Mark Young It is twin carb.
Im actually missing my air box myself, what should be done with the air intake adjustment?
Buy an airbox
@@joshlecher4935 yeah if i could find one i would. And stock the air screws are 1 and a half turns out.
@@indiehandstudios5711 what kind of sled is it
Well shit you made this very easy thanks!
Where is the video on adjusting the needle Jets?
I removed it and intend on making a new one. I found adjusting the needle jet clip to the 3rd groove "due to ethanol in the fuel" is really not an issue as it was making my sled bog due to the mix being too rich! Here I thought bogs were only caused by a too lean condition, but learned to "read the spark plugs" to determine what is really going on with the mix. My plugs we black and covered with soot. I moved the clip back to the factory setting "2nd groove down from the top" and the bog went away and the thing rips now. Go figure. Are you having an issue with yours?
yea ...... same problem with the 96 Polaris 580 and 88 Polaris 340
Ha, I have a 488 Indy, was looking at carb. adjustment, and who do I hear in the video......Sharkie!!!!
Hey Rocky! You found me! Now you know what I do in my spare time! I hope the carbs behave for you, keep me posted.
Is this the mark the shark from good old Maine radio?
Why yes it is, Cody. Hello!
@@contact4mwy7 small world! Nice video thanks for the information
I feel like your trying to save yourself from the RUclips police. Lol. Dude, if ya don't have it off the ground or a door open that's your choice. The critics can talk all they want
thx.. did all that.. maybe miss little piece..
+michael littlejohn Maybe, Michael, I don't know what else it could be if it is only running with the choke on, sounds like it is starving for gas.
I am selling a 340 arctic cat 5000 el tigra for 400 bucks
Where u located i want it
Cela deroule trop vite pas le temps de lire