Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-17-front-forks-headlight-and-triple-clamp.html
Great video series, really helped me out. I discovered a good way to push down on the upper fork tube "nuts" as you try to start engaging the threads...a length of 1/2" PVC pipe. You can grip it and press down and turn it, makes it really easy.
Thank you so much for posting these videos, they are a valuable aid for my own project, admittedly a later model - the rebuilding of a 1988 R100RS. The video course gives a methodical, planned approach to a rebuild project, exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Hi John, I have a 1989 RS and it's my favorite! Things are a bit different compared to this /6 but I'm glad that that you could benefit from the video.
These videos are just great. Thanks so much for posting them and being so thoughtful in your approach to their production. They have aided me tremendously with working on my 77 R100S. I began buying my parts from your two sites (B2V and Wunderlich) as a way of showing thanks in a less abstract manner.
Bravo! William. Loved that fork alignment check. Will have to go back and double check mine that way. Also, more detail on routing the turn signal wires might be helpful. We found those to be a bit of a trick. As I said on the phone, you have a cult following developing here in Eastern PA. Many thanks, again!
Hey Frank, The turn signal wires are a bit of a PITA but leaving everything a bit loose at that stage helps A bit of lube on the grommets is a big help so that you cal pull the wires one way or the others as everything falls into place. I'm glad that you like the alignment trick. I learned that one at least 30 years ago and it made so much sense, that it became part of my standard procedure.
A great great thank you for all these videos from Italy!! They really make the job for us (and I'm pretty sure for the sponsors, too). Great work guys! Keep going!
I've thoroughly enjoyed the videos, William, great job! I'm working my way around my '75 R90/6. Before I bought it the thing had been sitting for 32 years so it's extremely dirty but otherwise in excellent condition. I got to the forks today and was upset to discover the gaiters are full of thick, sticky honey (old fork oil). I had hoped to just replace the oil and put in Progressive springs but I obviously have to do a complete fork rebuild; so be it. I have found a source for a pair of the short S gaiters or I can buy new stock gaiters for around the same price. Does one style or the other have an advantage? The S gaiters are nice looking but if the others provide better protection I can go that way. Thank you!
Thanks! My old R65 didn't have a headlamp bucket (it had a windjammer which I removed). It seems silly, but I could not find a description anywhere of the two rubber "spacers" and the big end washer holding the bucket on. Lots of pictures but no description of the order when installing. Needless to say, your video shows it in perfect detail. I can't tell you how many times your videos have helped. I stripped the R65 down to the frame and it's almost all back together. Someday I'll ride down to NC and say "thanks!" in person.
Your Airhead tutorials are a fantastic help. It looks like the lower triple clamp bolts were snugged tight at around the 12.08 minute mark. Did you re-torque the lower triple clamp bolts at the same time? kind regards Allan
I notice that you do a really nice job of cleaning up all the grimy parts that you pull off in each of these videos. As a newbie wrencher and airhead owner (I FINALLY got my hands on the 76' R90/6 that I've always wanted), I am wondering if you would consider doing a short video on how you clean these parts so well, particularly some of the large parts, or at the very least describe your process in reply to my comment? These videos are amazing and much appreciated! I know I'll be buying a lot of parts and tools from you soon!
We use either a mineral based solvent and/or water based solvent like Simple Green. Parts clean up nicely with Scotch Brite pads and cleaning brushed. We appreciate your comments and look forward to helping you with your project.
Great information! I have one directional mount that flops around on the tubes. Do I just need to re-tighten the tube caps, or push the headlight ears down first, or...?
Hi William. I always have problems adjusting the tension of the steering head bearings on my '77 100/7. Either they are to loose and there is just too much play and the whole front fork doesn't perform right, or they are too tight and the bike wobbles at low speeds. Any suggestions ? And btw... I don't have that special BMW friction tool as recommended in the manual. Thanks a lot for the great tutorials. They have been a great help and I love the way you explain things! Cheers from Germany, Hardy.
Just a tip but at 19:39 where William presses the threaded fork head cap into place with his palm, I used a Phillips head screwdriver, inserted down into the fork point first, using a driver where the handle slightly inserts into the cap and turned it in with the handle...must easier and controllable when trying to get this cap to three in....
great video with good comments, I replaced the boots on my R50/5 one tube at a time any downside to that? wheel and fender were still on the bike, wheel was resting on a block of wood!
Went to install the very same progressive fork springs in my 1975 R90/6 today- found this! Awesome. A couple questions- are you sure about the 11 fold boot? I have original 13 fold fork boots on mine. Fiche says /6s used 13 fold boots. The spacers you used with your fork springs- what length did you use? Those look much shorter than the ones progressive sent me... but this kit says what I have, 4.240" long, should be used unmodified. Does that sound right compared to what you used?
The spacer sleeves you fit at the end to get the tension on the springs are not available from Bmw or Motorworks anymore and you don't sell them either. When I dismantled the forks on my 1975 75/6 it had none installed, so are they optional ? If not, can I use PVC piping or other DIY material and what are the dimensions ?
just a question. what if the forks arent paralel after youve rebuilt them? do you raise one higher than the other or? forks for R65 '82. (pinchbolt in upper and lower trippleclamp)
The last model with a drum front brake was R60/6, but this one has the chromed hubcap that ended with the /5 range. Other /5 parts visible are: unpainted clutch lever, curved gear lever, fuel tap, webbed front fork. Without the name plate on the engine casing, it's impossible to tell the difference between R50/5, R60/5 & R75/5.
The gaters for the r90S are short ones, they have felt inside, the documentation says to oil the felt, but I can't find what type of oil to use, regular engine oil seems to thin to stay in place, do you have experience with this?
Inspiring and explained idiotproof.. We have this lockdown going on here in Ireland so what better time to work on the bikes, im back into the garage now to put into practice what I have just seen on my R80RT . go raibh mhaith agat. ( thanks in irish)
Kasper, have you ever changed a headlight on a /6? It takes SO MUCH WORK, but you'd know that if you've ever done it. Basically you have to reconnect every end of the wire harness onto the board, easier said than done.
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-17-front-forks-headlight-and-triple-clamp.html
These videos are 1st class wish William would do the whole series on a DVD,
Great video series, really helped me out. I discovered a good way to push down on the upper fork tube "nuts" as you try to start engaging the threads...a length of 1/2" PVC pipe. You can grip it and press down and turn it, makes it really easy.
Really enjoyed these vids when they came out and again now. Wish you guys would make some more!
Miguel's the man-has fulfilled and gone above and beyond on a number of my orders. Nice to get a little tour of the premisses, too.
Miguel IS the man and we are so fortunate to have him on our team!
Thank you so much for posting these videos, they are a valuable aid for my own project, admittedly a later model - the rebuilding of a 1988 R100RS. The video course gives a methodical, planned approach to a rebuild project, exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Hi John, I have a 1989 RS and it's my favorite! Things are a bit different compared to this /6 but I'm glad that that you could benefit from the video.
These videos are just great. Thanks so much for posting them and being so thoughtful in your approach to their production. They have aided me tremendously with working on my 77 R100S. I began buying my parts from your two sites (B2V and Wunderlich) as a way of showing thanks in a less abstract manner.
So well done you guys!! So informative for an airhead like me. I watch these vids over and over. 10 out of 10
Fantastic video... just totally dismanteled my r100s and was about to do the forks with a little bit of hesitation, just what i needed 😬👍
Glad to be of help.
Bravo! William. Loved that fork alignment check. Will have to go back and double check mine that way. Also, more detail on routing the turn signal wires might be helpful. We found those to be a bit of a trick. As I said on the phone, you have a cult following developing here in Eastern PA. Many thanks, again!
Hey Frank, The turn signal wires are a bit of a PITA but leaving everything a bit loose at that stage helps A bit of lube on the grommets is a big help so that you cal pull the wires one way or the others as everything falls into place. I'm glad that you like the alignment trick. I learned that one at least 30 years ago and it made so much sense, that it became part of my standard procedure.
A great great thank you for all these videos from Italy!! They really make the job for us (and I'm pretty sure for the sponsors, too). Great work guys! Keep going!
Grazie!!
LOVE these videos, really well done. I'd really like to meet the guy that gave thumbs down!
the H8 who hates puppies and butterflies voted down.
I've thoroughly enjoyed the videos, William, great job! I'm working my way around my '75 R90/6. Before I bought it the thing had been sitting for 32 years so it's extremely dirty but otherwise in excellent condition. I got to the forks today and was upset to discover the gaiters are full of thick, sticky honey (old fork oil). I had hoped to just replace the oil and put in Progressive springs but I obviously have to do a complete fork rebuild; so be it. I have found a source for a pair of the short S gaiters or I can buy new stock gaiters for around the same price. Does one style or the other have an advantage? The S gaiters are nice looking but if the others provide better protection I can go that way. Thank you!
You're a godsend - thank you so much for these videos.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching and we have more in the works.
Thanks! My old R65 didn't have a headlamp bucket (it had a windjammer which I removed). It seems silly, but I could not find a description anywhere of the two rubber "spacers" and the big end washer holding the bucket on. Lots of pictures but no description of the order when installing. Needless to say, your video shows it in perfect detail. I can't tell you how many times your videos have helped. I stripped the R65 down to the frame and it's almost all back together. Someday I'll ride down to NC and say "thanks!" in person.
Yes, please drop by when you are in NC
Your Airhead tutorials are a fantastic help. It looks like the lower triple clamp bolts were snugged tight at around the 12.08 minute mark.
Did you re-torque the lower triple clamp bolts at the same time?
kind regards Allan
I notice that you do a really nice job of cleaning up all the grimy parts that you pull off in each of these videos. As a newbie wrencher and airhead owner (I FINALLY got my hands on the 76' R90/6 that I've always wanted), I am wondering if you would consider doing a short video on how you clean these parts so well, particularly some of the large parts, or at the very least describe your process in reply to my comment? These videos are amazing and much appreciated! I know I'll be buying a lot of parts and tools from you soon!
We use either a mineral based solvent and/or water based solvent like Simple Green. Parts clean up nicely with Scotch Brite pads and cleaning brushed. We appreciate your comments and look forward to helping you with your project.
Great information! I have one directional mount that flops around on the tubes. Do I just need to re-tighten the tube caps, or push the headlight ears down first, or...?
Hi William. I always have problems adjusting the tension of the steering head bearings on my '77 100/7. Either they are to loose and there is just too much play and the whole front fork doesn't perform right, or they are too tight and the bike wobbles at low speeds. Any suggestions ? And btw... I don't have that special BMW friction tool as recommended in the manual. Thanks a lot for the great tutorials. They have been a great help and I love the way you explain things! Cheers from Germany, Hardy.
Excellent videos 👍
Great videos! Many many thanks!
Thank you, I get smarter each video!
Thanks for the nice feedback!
Great video, I watch and learn from the master. Please excuse my ignorance, did I miss the dust seal installation?
Thank you for making such excellent videos
Glad you like them!
Just a tip but at 19:39 where William presses the threaded fork head cap into place with his palm, I used a Phillips head screwdriver, inserted down into the fork point first, using a driver where the handle slightly inserts into the cap and turned it in with the handle...must easier and controllable when trying to get this cap to three in....
Hey, that's a great tip! Thanks very much for sharing this!
Bill. I thought the turn signal holder should have gone with the fork at this stage. Thanks
great video with good comments, I replaced the boots on my R50/5 one tube at a time any downside to that?
wheel and fender were still on the bike, wheel was resting on a block of wood!
Nice video! Im working on my R90/6 now!
Pretty cool! Are you near New Hampshire? I'd love to have you work on my R75/6...!
great workshop
Thank you!
Went to install the very same progressive fork springs in my 1975 R90/6 today- found this! Awesome. A couple questions- are you sure about the 11 fold boot? I have original 13 fold fork boots on mine. Fiche says /6s used 13 fold boots. The spacers you used with your fork springs- what length did you use? Those look much shorter than the ones progressive sent me... but this kit says what I have, 4.240" long, should be used unmodified. Does that sound right compared to what you used?
Is it important to change out the springs ?
Or did you go with progressive springs for performance?
The Stock springs are a little too soft of my taste. These don't dive as much .
Another Excellent video. Thanks!
The spacer sleeves you fit at the end to get the tension on the springs are not available from Bmw or Motorworks anymore and you don't sell them either. When I dismantled the forks on my 1975 75/6 it had none installed, so are they optional ? If not, can I use PVC piping or other DIY material and what are the dimensions ?
just a question. what if the forks arent paralel after youve rebuilt them? do you raise one higher than the other or? forks for R65 '82. (pinchbolt in upper and lower trippleclamp)
17:48 min in to this episode, I can see there is a absolut beauty of a bike on the stand next to you, out curiosity what model is that
The last model with a drum front brake was R60/6, but this one has the chromed hubcap that ended with the /5 range.
Other /5 parts visible are: unpainted clutch lever, curved gear lever, fuel tap, webbed front fork.
Without the name plate on the engine casing, it's impossible to tell the difference between R50/5, R60/5 & R75/5.
Great video!
How are the electrics?? you should make a video on rewiring the head lamp/bucket.. lol
Thanks for the suggestion. It will definitely be covered in one of the upcoming videos!
The gaters for the r90S are short ones, they have felt inside, the documentation says to oil the felt, but I can't find what type of oil to use, regular engine oil seems to thin to stay in place, do you have experience with this?
I use fork oil for lubing the felts. Let it soak in and then squeeze out as much as you can. They should not be totally saturated.
Sorry I see now the holders are in....Thanks I was too quick..
where can i buy that metric thread pitch gauge?
I've just heard your comment that when fitting an S-fairing, longer indicator brackets will be required. Oops!
steering head bearing pre-load??
Inspiring and explained idiotproof.. We have this lockdown going on here in Ireland so what better time to work on the bikes, im back into the garage now to put into practice what I have just seen on my R80RT . go raibh mhaith agat. ( thanks in irish)
Hey David, you are using your time wisely! Have fun with it!
Could someone tell me what handlebars the bike on the background has? (visible at 17:37)
Those are the European low bars, part# 3271126. Cool that you caught it!
ho my god you re the best im frome algeria and i have r80 rt 1986 you can restored if you want i send u the photos
How do you know what wire is for the left or right turn signal?
Hi, the wires are color coded. Blue/Red and Blue/Black. Right is blue/black
Great video, truly informative! But dude, seriously... Change that headlamp. It's in horrible condition
Kasper, have you ever changed a headlight on a /6? It takes SO MUCH WORK, but you'd know that if you've ever done it. Basically you have to reconnect every end of the wire harness onto the board, easier said than done.