Love watching how things are done in the US with the different terminology. In the UK we call that a valley. Two layboards and a ridgeboard, with diminishing jack rafters. We don't sheath the roofs over here for this to be done. Straight over the trusses, which is fun in the rain, before the roof is felted and battened and then tiled. Your channel is a great watch and I've been a subscriber for well over two years now. From one joiner UK/ Framer US to another, keep up the good work my friend.
Boy its nice having a helper or two that know whats going on. What a pain it is doing ANYTHING with someone who doesn't know what they're doing but won't admit it or admit it to themselves they don't know what they're doing. I've found it easier, even though physically its harder, to just work alone then with someone who won't listen and doesn't want to learn. Good helpers are so hard to come by now a days. They wanna run the show but can't predict what you're next move will be when doing the most basic of stuff. Great team work guys. Thats how its done.
Aye man I understand this so much. I just started framing last year dec 2020. And my boss has been doing it for 25 years. Everything he teaches me I take in and use on every house we build. We've built 15 homes or so since December and I still am no where near perfect. But shits awesome and a great career. We've gone through 10+ guys who don't wanna work hard. All guys are nowadays are lazy and expect everything on a silver platter. And it's annoying.
As a 18 yr old wanting to get into framing I don’t understand how someone in the trade would be so unhelpful. I’d take every chance I get to go out to job sites and just get a feel for it. To actually help would be awesome, I think it’s so interesting and cool to see. All I want is to learn from someone who knows what they’re doing lol
Awesome work! Thanks for teaching us. Now I know how to a dormer, the wife wants one on the front of the house and I always told her I didn't know how to tie in to the existing trusses.
Hi I have a variety of m18v fuel tools from Milwaukee, sds hammer drill, drill driver, impact drill, circular saw and angle grinder, never let me down, would highly recommend. Then I have a mafell track saw. I have an hitachi framing nail gun because Milwaukee hadn’t released one at the time, again I can recommend the mafell saw and hitachi nail gun.
I developed a trick years ago working on huge homes .. When figuring out the lengths of jack rafters , Whether they are on sleepers , natural valleys or hips . My method isn't worth using when you only have 3 rafters per side though . But when you are working on a-16"- 35' hip or valley .. and the layout is 16" oc or even 19.2 ".. It's the sweetest , fastest , most accurate and safest way to do a fill in . Don't even have to do a layoff on the hip/valley !! .. The method is like The CDL" Common Length Difference that can be found on a Construction Master .. But refined !! . . It can be a little complex for some to grasp at first but when learned it is Sooooooo Easy . .. Explanation .. after a layout is pulled from a parallel rafter top and bottom . Most will measure from the ridge to sleeper layout to get the rafter length . Works fine . But if you have a very long sleeper and 20 rafters per side . That's a lot of measuring . Layout the one longest rafter and get it's length . and the layout to the 2nd to the shortest valley rafter . Subtract the shortest from the longest and then divide by the amount of rafters .. Then you end up with a Constant !! .. Log in the longest rafter in a calculator and subtract the Constant .. Write down each length and the numbers will return to the 2nd to the last rafter . then subtract The Constant 1 more for the last . . Now you never had to layout the sleeper besides the first and last , And all that has to be done is layout the ridge , Intermittently install every 4th rafter to the ridge and shake it straight and nail to the sleeper without a layout . . It will come out perfect . .. Now on a natural valley or hip . A little different . The difference is the measurement to the heel .. " Do Not Use The Heel as the Constant !! . .. Layout only the longest hip jack rafter and the 2nd to the last . Do Not use the heel as the Constant !! .. Now measure up from the heel sweep to HPCL .." Heel Plumb Cut Line " and measure the rafter .. Do this on the longest and the shortest .. Convert the rise of the heel . Record those 2 numbers . Subtract the shortest from the longest . Out will come a Constant . Subtract that Constant from the longest and it will return to 2nd to the shortest . On a Construction Master . It has a CLD for every pitch . Throw that shit away .. It only works in a perfect world and it will not take into consideration the miniscule errors which is all framing . Many will erect scaffolding and brace hips and valleys straight , Derive their layoffs from the straightest common rafter in the background . Rafters are straightest and most accurate to refer to at the very top and bottom .. In the middle . they either have to have Eagle Eye laid on it , straight to be referred to and someone sliding the tape downhill in tandem to get marks .. Which is a waste of time in my method . Then get individual heel sweep measurements in tandem .. Which is a waste of time . .. My method spits out all rafters lengths without having to dangle like a monkey and hold a tape . . The additional sweet thing is .. Not only no layoffs on the hip , No need for braces to straighten the hip or valley .. Use every 4th rafter as a brace to control the hip .. Once nailed on the plate /bird's mouth . nail to the hip and it will be within a 1/32 " accurate .. I have blown others minds and many carpenters said " It won't work , It'll take too long , Can't work " until they see it happen and fall in love with it . Though many have a hard time grasping the procedure . Once learned .. It takes a whole lot less effort. labor , is laser accurate and amazingly only 1 minute to figure . I use this method of math for framing sloped walls without measuring but twice . I use this method for calculating every piece of siding on a gable . a dormer .. Especially a dormer .. In that case . 3 numbers input and I can cut every piece perfect with a perfect clear straight roof clearance . .. Last piece of advice for even seasoned carpenters .. Some people call out their numbers in feet and inches , others call them out in inches . Some say 167 -3/16" some will say 13' -11-3/16" others will say 167.1875" and some will say 167-3 . I strongly advocate calling out fractions by their 16ths .. A 1/4 " is now a 4 .. 3/4 " is now a 12 . .. less confusion if the numbers are 3 ,6 , and 12 instead of 3/16, 3/8 and 3/4 less writing .. Works best for example when framing a wall on an uneven slab .. If The base number for example is 145 " or 12'-1".. and the studs don't really vary too radically and seemingly hover around the base number . Then no need to write each stud out .. 145-3/16 " then a 145-1/4 " than a 145 -1/4 " than a 145-5/16" .. Write simply 3-4-4-5 .. Wood is wood and has its variables , You can never efficiently build a house with the accuracy of a Swiss Watch and remain profitable ..The best way to become efficient and more accurate without even thinking . Is learn shortcuts
I'm surprised they didn't send you out Valley packs instead of hand framing. We haven't had to hand frame in over 10 years. Nice work folks! 👍🇺🇸😊 Btw, to fire up that senco you need to Smash it with a hammer! 😅😂😭🤣
Rough and ready to my eyes. But I learned the old way. But if it works it works. Just so long as carpenters still have the ability to do it properly when called upon then I have no problem with this quick and dirty method 👌
Can I ask what you would have done differently? I really can't change much that I do considering all of it is engineered and spec'd to be built this way, but I'm always intrigued to hear others methods.
Coming along pretty quickly considering the “space” limitations had to deal with when pouring everything. But, soon as that was down, can get to putting everything up and that usually goes pretty darn quick; especially since your there from beginning to end, which really does MAKE A DIFFERENCE compared to many subs doing this and that. Like how you and biz work, pretty cool👍🏻 Cheers✌🏻
Hey Matt on the east coast we refer to the cut on a rafter hitting the ridge a plumb cut. And the cut on the valley is a level cut. So for your roof a plumb 6 or a level 6.
Well, that took you long enough. Just kidding. It looks amazing. Good job yall. Ps. Talking about nail inspection! Did Fox remember to remove the nails from his test on the door frame. 😎🙈🤣
Do you prefer battery nailers these days? Or do you go back and forth between air and and battery? Can’t decide if I should switch things up or not. Appreciate the help and love the Channel!
Question for those out there, to get the length of the valley rafters, how did they square up the plate on the roof to the ridge when they were doing 24” centers? In other words, where do you place the end of the tape on the roof plates (laying flat) so that your 90 degrees to the ridge? Thanks, Garry.
normally we just hook another rafter and pull layout from that, which he mentioned doing. they did that off camera and made a mark on the valley where the layout landed, then measured to the mark. hopefully that makes sense. essentially they pulled their tape measure as parallel to the ridge as possible where it would land on the valley from a previously installed rafter. you can also figure it out mathematically but thats more work.
The layover tie ins on truce roofs I've never really cared for, idk why, there not bad. It's faster to truce, but I've always loved framing out a roof and setting ridge poles valleys hips and all.
what material is that on the exterior? looks amazing quality! why does my new pulte home that is getting built right now, that is at the similar stage of build as this one look like it is put together by a 3 year old??
Did you know if you cut the common on the starting end, then cut the compound cut for either side, you automatically have the compound cut for the opposite side. It’s less changing the deck of the saw and a little bit less thinking before you make your first cut.
True .. But if crown is taking into account , The reverse piece will have a down crown .. Shouldn't matter on short pieces but anything of any substantial length . It can be an added aggravation . Another thing to consider is edges . One side can be clean and ready for sheathing and the reverse covered in half edges and bark .
This really is an awesome channel. Thanks for going over the roof pitch, angle and bevel cuts on those rafters. Excellent! One question. Did your ridge beam land on a truss where you came across? Do you usually put a block underneath between the trusses if you land in the middle, or does running it between the sleepers and nailing it carry the load without a problem? Thanks.
Anthony, I've seen quite a few comments similar to this. I like to think the stigma behind having tattoos and instantly being a bad person is coming to an end.. I spent 14 years in San Quentin State Prison.
@@MattBangsWood you're doing great. Never associate it with being bad, just doesn't look good. There are a lot of ways to remove tats. Seen a video on RUclips of a guy using some kind of salve. Keep growing brother!
I like to run the sleepers to a point and set the ridge on top . The small Jack's sit on top,? Just me. You know the guy holding the jack can pull a hammer out and a couple of nails too
Love how it’s coming together-and the roof is definitely one of those summiting a mountain milestones. Question: On the last rafter cut, I’m curious why you made two cuts instead of just one (bevel) seat cut since the “head” cut was already there from the previous. Just asking from an efficiency standpoint. Maybe it was crowned the wrong way?
Seems like you didn’t tape the seams before the buildup. I get you’ll get water protection from the roof above but wondering what that’ll do to the air control barrier that’s built into the zip panels (including their cost). Thoughts?
Your like me Matt 😂 my dads always moaning at me that I have the most expensive hammer in the world (my nail gun or my cordless drill) as I use it to whack my timber into place
Love watching how things are done in the US with the different terminology. In the UK we call that a valley. Two layboards and a ridgeboard, with diminishing jack rafters.
We don't sheath the roofs over here for this to be done. Straight over the trusses, which is fun in the rain, before the roof is felted and battened and then tiled.
Your channel is a great watch and I've been a subscriber for well over two years now. From one joiner UK/ Framer US to another, keep up the good work my friend.
Boy its nice having a helper or two that know whats going on. What a pain it is doing ANYTHING with someone who doesn't know what they're doing but won't admit it or admit it to themselves they don't know what they're doing. I've found it easier, even though physically its harder, to just work alone then with someone who won't listen and doesn't want to learn. Good helpers are so hard to come by now a days. They wanna run the show but can't predict what you're next move will be when doing the most basic of stuff. Great team work guys. Thats how its done.
Aye man I understand this so much. I just started framing last year dec 2020. And my boss has been doing it for 25 years. Everything he teaches me I take in and use on every house we build. We've built 15 homes or so since December and I still am no where near perfect. But shits awesome and a great career. We've gone through 10+ guys who don't wanna work hard. All guys are nowadays are lazy and expect everything on a silver platter. And it's annoying.
you probably don’t wanna pay over $16 either
Remember. You once knew nothing and someone had to take the time to teach you.
I hear you brother wow and specially when the boss doesn't hear what you are saying
As a 18 yr old wanting to get into framing I don’t understand how someone in the trade would be so unhelpful. I’d take every chance I get to go out to job sites and just get a feel for it. To actually help would be awesome, I think it’s so interesting and cool to see. All I want is to learn from someone who knows what they’re doing lol
I've gotten so used to hearing that air powered Hitachi firing all day, sounds like a cash register with each shot, KA-CHING!
And if you compare it to hand nailing it sure is KA-CHING!
The way you film now it's just perfect!
No editing, so faster for you.
And I'm reteired so I have all the time too watch you all work for hours.
I can watch other people work all day
One rafter at a time----old school framing!!
Always a good day when this channel uploads
These videos make me miss framing so much.
Best trade video ever… subscribed!
Nice to see you add the ridge board hardware. A 'belt and suspenders' approach always helps one sleep at night :)
You guys make all the angles look easy.
Awesome work! Thanks for teaching us. Now I know how to a dormer, the wife wants one on the front of the house and I always told her I didn't know how to tie in to the existing trusses.
Love my johnny square has that thing for 5 years now. Great vid matt.
Thank you for teaching us younger gen
great job on the roof tie.. You made it look easy ,however we know there is heaps of experience at the back of all this. Thanks
Your so talented man. Work safe
Hello from Uzbekistan
That is a very neat makshift work surface up there.
Nice music and time laps at the end looks very professional
Roof looks amazing you guys are the best at what you do
PERFECT JOB GUYS !!! if you put a little oil on the guide of the senco , the nails are better raised 👌
Good job . Your a good teacher
Working with family is the best. I love working with my dad and brother sometimes lol.
The Senco seems more trouble than it’s worth. Great video keep them coming.
Was thinking same Milwaukee makes pretty nice tools and can have same battery for saw nail gun or any tools
Hi I have a variety of m18v fuel tools from Milwaukee, sds hammer drill, drill driver, impact drill, circular saw and angle grinder, never let me down, would highly recommend. Then I have a mafell track saw. I have an hitachi framing nail gun because Milwaukee hadn’t released one at the time, again I can recommend the mafell saw and hitachi nail gun.
18:50 is gold!!!
Nice lines brother keep up the awesome work from me to you in new Zealand
You answered a question I had for a while, awesome work snd great video!!!
I developed a trick years ago working on huge homes .. When figuring out the lengths of jack rafters , Whether they are on sleepers , natural valleys or hips . My method isn't worth using when you only have 3 rafters per side though . But when you are working on a-16"- 35' hip or valley .. and the layout is 16" oc or even 19.2 ".. It's the sweetest , fastest , most accurate and safest way to do a fill in . Don't even have to do a layoff on the hip/valley !! .. The method is like The CDL" Common Length Difference that can be found on a Construction Master .. But refined !! . . It can be a little complex for some to grasp at first but when learned it is Sooooooo Easy . .. Explanation .. after a layout is pulled from a parallel rafter top and bottom . Most will measure from the ridge to sleeper layout to get the rafter length . Works fine . But if you have a very long sleeper and 20 rafters per side . That's a lot of measuring . Layout the one longest rafter and get it's length . and the layout to the 2nd to the shortest valley rafter . Subtract the shortest from the longest and then divide by the amount of rafters .. Then you end up with a Constant !! .. Log in the longest rafter in a calculator and subtract the Constant .. Write down each length and the numbers will return to the 2nd to the last rafter . then subtract The Constant 1 more for the last . . Now you never had to layout the sleeper besides the first and last , And all that has to be done is layout the ridge , Intermittently install every 4th rafter to the ridge and shake it straight and nail to the sleeper without a layout . . It will come out perfect . .. Now on a natural valley or hip . A little different . The difference is the measurement to the heel .. " Do Not Use The Heel as the Constant !! . .. Layout only the longest hip jack rafter and the 2nd to the last . Do Not use the heel as the Constant !! .. Now measure up from the heel sweep to HPCL .." Heel Plumb Cut Line " and measure the rafter .. Do this on the longest and the shortest .. Convert the rise of the heel . Record those 2 numbers . Subtract the shortest from the longest . Out will come a Constant . Subtract that Constant from the longest and it will return to 2nd to the shortest . On a Construction Master . It has a CLD for every pitch . Throw that shit away .. It only works in a perfect world and it will not take into consideration the miniscule errors which is all framing . Many will erect scaffolding and brace hips and valleys straight , Derive their layoffs from the straightest common rafter in the background . Rafters are straightest and most accurate to refer to at the very top and bottom .. In the middle . they either have to have Eagle Eye laid on it , straight to be referred to and someone sliding the tape downhill in tandem to get marks .. Which is a waste of time in my method . Then get individual heel sweep measurements in tandem .. Which is a waste of time . .. My method spits out all rafters lengths without having to dangle like a monkey and hold a tape . . The additional sweet thing is .. Not only no layoffs on the hip , No need for braces to straighten the hip or valley .. Use every 4th rafter as a brace to control the hip .. Once nailed on the plate /bird's mouth . nail to the hip and it will be within a 1/32 " accurate .. I have blown others minds and many carpenters said " It won't work , It'll take too long , Can't work " until they see it happen and fall in love with it . Though many have a hard time grasping the procedure . Once learned .. It takes a whole lot less effort. labor , is laser accurate and amazingly only 1 minute to figure . I use this method of math for framing sloped walls without measuring but twice . I use this method for calculating every piece of siding on a gable . a dormer .. Especially a dormer .. In that case . 3 numbers input and I can cut every piece perfect with a perfect clear straight roof clearance . .. Last piece of advice for even seasoned carpenters .. Some people call out their numbers in feet and inches , others call them out in inches . Some say 167 -3/16" some will say 13' -11-3/16" others will say 167.1875" and some will say 167-3 . I strongly advocate calling out fractions by their 16ths .. A 1/4 " is now a 4 .. 3/4 " is now a 12 . .. less confusion if the numbers are 3 ,6 , and 12 instead of 3/16, 3/8 and 3/4 less writing .. Works best for example when framing a wall on an uneven slab .. If The base number for example is 145 " or 12'-1".. and the studs don't really vary too radically and seemingly hover around the base number . Then no need to write each stud out .. 145-3/16 " then a 145-1/4 " than a 145 -1/4 " than a 145-5/16" .. Write simply 3-4-4-5 .. Wood is wood and has its variables , You can never efficiently build a house with the accuracy of a Swiss Watch and remain profitable ..The best way to become efficient and more accurate without even thinking . Is learn shortcuts
Great video Matt you are a very skilled framer 🔨
Awesome video as always 👌🏻🙌🏻
21:43 Man that's a nice looking duplex! Looks modern, but at the same time it has a nice mid-century look to it. I like that!
Fantastic brother , always great to learn others point of view and terminology in the trade .
Awesome work Matt and the guy's keep it up buddy
beauty job bro ,congratulations from Brazil !
Perfect! You guys are awesome! Keep um coming Matt! 💪👌👍🏻
Nice job guys. I love that senco framing nailer.
I'm surprised they didn't send you out Valley packs instead of hand framing. We haven't had to hand frame in over 10 years. Nice work folks! 👍🇺🇸😊
Btw, to fire up that senco you need to Smash it with a hammer! 😅😂😭🤣
Rough and ready to my eyes. But I learned the old way. But if it works it works.
Just so long as carpenters still have the ability to do it properly when called upon then I have no problem with this quick and dirty method 👌
Can I ask what you would have done differently? I really can't change much that I do considering all of it is engineered and spec'd to be built this way, but I'm always intrigued to hear others methods.
I really really like your videos just a very clean job
Great info Matt. I'm going to try some gambrel to gambrel dormers on my shop. Wish me luck!
Nice cuts man!
Coming along pretty quickly considering the “space” limitations had to deal with when pouring everything. But, soon as that was down, can get to putting everything up and that usually goes pretty darn quick; especially since your there from beginning to end, which really does MAKE A DIFFERENCE compared to many subs doing this and that. Like how you and biz work, pretty cool👍🏻
Cheers✌🏻
The framers my contractor used.. Sucked.your cuts and install are so crisp.
Quality
Great just what I needed to know. Back to work and thanx for the video
Very cool video man, very well made valley roof
Matt good work man! You make it look soo easy.
Nice work, thank you for your video
You are good amigo you are the best 👍💪💪🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷...
Nice looking roof man!
absolutely brilliant Matt!! explanations and demos as usual were bad ass!! do not stop posting vids man!
Nice clean job
You make interesting videos. Thank you
wow that looking so excellent work.👍👍👍👍
What an excellent job well done and fast I would love to work with you😮 .....
greetings from Mexico
Great build on a postage stamp size lot.
Great video Matt!!!
Nail guns feel like a superpower
Beauty of a roof boys!
Music at 6:18 gave me Duran Duran's "Come Undone" vibes 🎵👍
Great job!
Great work!!!!
Best channel on RUclips! How did you like Senco gun??
Anything worth doing, is worth doing right. Looks like right, to me!
hope Milwaukee sends you their nailer for sponsorship, keep up the videos
Hey Matt on the east coast we refer to the cut on a rafter hitting the ridge a plumb cut. And the cut on the valley is a level cut. So for your roof a plumb 6 or a level 6.
Great work👍👍👍🍺🤗
👍👍👍👍👍 thank you for the content
Very good work 👍
Nice work!
Dude your awesome !!!
I have a senco 15 gauge that’s battery and I struggle with turning it on all the time. That made me laugh. Glad it’s not just me.
Videos like this make me regret picking welding and fabrication as my career. Maybe I'll have the opportunity to retrain one day
I wanted to be a welder or an electrician when I was growing up, love both paths.
@@MattBangsWood you dodged a bullet with welding! Ha ha nearly 40 and regret it daily!
Nice work all the same
Very nice good job
Well, that took you long enough.
Just kidding. It looks amazing.
Good job yall.
Ps. Talking about nail inspection! Did Fox remember to remove the nails from his test on the door frame. 😎🙈🤣
I like how you spaced your valley seats so your rafter have perfect bearing given the set pitch
Totally guessed on spacing. Not gonna lie. Normally I’d put two 2x6, but with the cost of lumber these days.. I can’t waste much.
@@MattBangsWood yeah it’s getting crazy . They have us doing 24” centres everywhere there isn’t tile. Floors wallsyou name it hahahahaah
That’s just normal practice
@@patroberts4708 not really unless ur doing customs
@@dylanmounsey7515 🤣 so many hacks out there. Correct framing REQUIRES full bearing across the seat cut.
Do you prefer battery nailers these days? Or do you go back and forth between air and and battery? Can’t decide if I should switch things up or not. Appreciate the help and love the Channel!
Question for those out there, to get the length of the valley rafters, how did they square up the plate on the roof to the ridge when they were doing 24” centers? In other words, where do you place the end of the tape on the roof plates (laying flat) so that your 90 degrees to the ridge? Thanks, Garry.
normally we just hook another rafter and pull layout from that, which he mentioned doing. they did that off camera and made a mark on the valley where the layout landed, then measured to the mark. hopefully that makes sense. essentially they pulled their tape measure as parallel to the ridge as possible where it would land on the valley from a previously installed rafter. you can also figure it out mathematically but thats more work.
That cordless gun it seems the trade off is reliability over being tethered
Hey you like that senco gun? Looks nice but I noticed it sounds a little bit slower than the hitachi and Milwaukee, what’re your thoughts?
The layover tie ins on truce roofs I've never really cared for, idk why, there not bad. It's faster to truce, but I've always loved framing out a roof and setting ridge poles valleys hips and all.
Good job man
Good thing you use truss talk about rough framing your rough😀👍
With a shoe lace duh 🤣 wassup killerrrr haven’t tuned into your channel in a minute!
Super glue works!
This video though me more than 2 years in architecture university
Awsmmm brother
Can you show us how to figure out what degree you put the skillsaw at for the bottom of the rafter to match the pitch of the roof please
what material is that on the exterior? looks amazing quality! why does my new pulte home that is getting built right now, that is at the similar stage of build as this one look like it is put together by a 3 year old??
Did you know if you cut the common on the starting end, then cut the compound cut for either side, you automatically have the compound cut for the opposite side. It’s less changing the deck of the saw and a little bit less thinking before you make your first cut.
True .. But if crown is taking into account , The reverse piece will have a down crown .. Shouldn't matter on short pieces but anything of any substantial length . It can be an added aggravation . Another thing to consider is edges . One side can be clean and ready for sheathing and the reverse covered in half edges and bark .
Is there a video where you show and explain how to get the angle or degree on attaching to the roof?
This really is an awesome channel. Thanks for going over the roof pitch, angle and bevel cuts on those rafters. Excellent!
One question. Did your ridge beam land on a truss where you came across? Do you usually put a block underneath between the trusses if you land in the middle, or does running it between the sleepers and nailing it carry the load without a problem?
Thanks.
Lol. The guy hearts your comment and promptly ignores it. Nice.
@@ProleDaddy Maybe it was a stupid question. Only reason I asked is because that's what I do and I'm not sure if I need to. Figure it couldn't hurt.
Amazing that someone so knowledgeable can get so tatted up
Anthony, I've seen quite a few comments similar to this. I like to think the stigma behind having tattoos and instantly being a bad person is coming to an end..
I spent 14 years in San Quentin State Prison.
@@MattBangsWood you're doing great. Never associate it with being bad, just doesn't look good. There are a lot of ways to remove tats. Seen a video on RUclips of a guy using some kind of salve. Keep growing brother!
Didn’t know you could cut all that gold with a normal saw blade.
💵
I like to run the sleepers to a point and set the ridge on top . The small Jack's sit on top,? Just me. You know the guy holding the jack can pull a hammer out and a couple of nails too
Do the valley boards have to tie into existing roof rafters. I'm going to attempt a patio cover with this set up.
That Senco nail gun seems problematic.. you should try the DeWalt framing nailer.. they work pretty well..
Nice work guys, but I would throw that senco in my punchlist toolbox. And get a hitachi hose nailer .
Love how it’s coming together-and the roof is definitely one of those summiting a mountain milestones. Question: On the last rafter cut, I’m curious why you made two cuts instead of just one (bevel) seat cut since the “head” cut was already there from the previous. Just asking from an efficiency standpoint. Maybe it was crowned the wrong way?
Pp
P
P
Pp
Seems like you didn’t tape the seams before the buildup. I get you’ll get water protection from the roof above but wondering what that’ll do to the air control barrier that’s built into the zip panels (including their cost). Thoughts?
Your like me Matt 😂 my dads always moaning at me that I have the most expensive hammer in the world (my nail gun or my cordless drill) as I use it to whack my timber into place
So I see you ran the sleepers parallel to your snapped line. How do you know how far to hold it back.
The more I watch your videos the more I realize how little I know about carpentry. Lol