You did an excellent job describing the diagnosing of the mountaineer with the steering binding problem. Thank you. Actually, our Merc. Mountaineer is exactly the same color and has the same problem(s) with it... I hope you are still replying to inquiries on this youtube site. Very Well Done... Explained it so us common folk could understand and follow along. I can take your information to a garage and possibly avoid un-necessary repair costs and Zero in on the actualy problem and remedy. Thank you again Vortex Garage.. J. Watson
If it's totally locked up, you can drive it. But make sure the parking brake works well cause truck will creep even in park w/o the front drive shaft. Doable but not recommended. Had mine rebuilt by STE Couplers, still working well 5 years later. Need to rotate tires religiously at every oil change with this setup.
Marc Smith this one had that. I still need to edit the video but shot video as I replaced them with new bushings. Ended up removing the housing since I was also replacing the rack and balljoints so had it mostly apart in front
What did you use? I am picking up the bushings from Ford today and doing the job at the end of the week. It is an odd design how they are in there. I was trying to purchase the OEM tools, but it can easily get over $500. I was thinking air hammer out and my hub bearing removal tools to re-install. Not looking forward to this one without the proper tools.
Marc Smith , going off memory, but used a ball joint press tool, press adapters and sockets to push them out. But the steel bushing outer rings also were corroded onto the aluminum diff housing so used penetrating oil and some punches to get them started. I think at least one was in so good (and the rubber so perished) that I basically caved in the outer steel rim of the bushing and punched it out. Aside the from the ball joint press clamp no Ford special tools needed
My 04 ford explorer got a binding issue in a left hand turn. I had to get a new tire on the right rear. I drove it that way for a few weeks. Then I replaced them all with a new set. Binding solved. I also went from 235 to 245, they dont rub, and my speedo is finally showing the actual speed, compared to gps.
Hi, I have a 2007 mercury mountaineer and the ABS & traction control light are on. When I drive it it locks up the wheels. When you turn the front passenger wheel locks up as well. So I took out the AWD fuse and it drove fine. Only thing is now the brake light is on with the others. Please help. Thank you Greg
I have a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer AWD, the exact one you have worked on. I am having a problem with it that so far no one has been able to diagnose. The symptoms are: Loud hum that starts at around 15 mph and gets louder when turning to the right. It sounds like it is coming from the drivers side, and has a kind of rhythmic pulse. It quiets down and has a floating sensation when going over a hill. Also has Tire chirp when making sharp turns on dry pavement. Tire wear is even and all matching tires... We have replaced both Hubs in the front to try and get the hum to go away. Other things that have been replaced are: front differential mount bushings on drivers side, sway bars links in front both sides, rear differential (spider gears, clutches, carrier bearing, pinion bearing, and seal), front and rear differential fluid, and transfer case fluid. None of these things were replaced due to the hum though. The hum started when we hit, at very low speed, a huge pothole that had been filled with concrete. The concrete actually lifted up the drivers side about a foot off the ground and then dropped the mountaineer. Any suggestions? We are at a loss...
just off the cuff, are the front half shafts ok? my first thought was hubs but you said those were done. How about the front driveshaft? Is the boot on the rzeppa joint near the transfer case ripped? also is the tire and wheel ok? Have you had the front drivers tire checked for a splipped or broken belt and any bent rim issues?
+Vortex Garage The half shafts look and feel good. The tires and wheels are all good, now the front driveshaft boot is ripped, however the hum doesn't go away when the front driveshaft is out.
+marlo thurston Definitely a tough one. I'd try rotating the tires and see if the noise moves. othereise Ill have to think. Sounds alot like a hub but that was already done...and removal of driveshaft eliminates alot.
+marlo thurston only other rotational stuff is the front diff and the bearings in the front diff axle shafts. but maybe its not rotational, the drop may have damaged a motor mount or trans mount, or broke an exhaust hanger. it could be exhaust hitting something while move from something like this.
I cannot figure this out.. I got stuck in some snow heard a pop and won't drive at all and when I put in drive it just grinds. Drive shadt are not broke any ideas?
I take it the drive shafts both do not spin? My only guess would be two main things: 1.) a failure in the transfer case, such as the chain inside breaking. I think though if that were to happen the rear would still turn but I could be wrong. Also if one of the internal gears in the transfer case broke it could be grinding and not sending power.. 2.) unfortunately it could be an internal transmission failure - I'd look to see if it acts the same in reverse and try the other gears outside of drive to see if any change. If you do see the one of the driveshafts moving though, it's possible something in one of the differentials or an axle CV broke. Either way best of luck trying to find the cause.
Thank you for Such a Quick Reply.. that's amazing. There is a push button on dash, (to the left of steering column. it sometimes says "OFF"... so I push it until it changes... or goes 'out'.. is this anything to do with Tranny.? also. I have the guy sitting with a beachball on his lap, which is an airbag warning... how do I get this checked out...??? Sorry to hit you up with a couple other issues.. but hope you have a minute to reply again. Thank youSir.
I have this same problem with my 2003 Mountaineer. Just got new tires so I know they are all the same size. How do I get this diagnosed properly to determine if it is the ball joints, steering shaft, drive shaft(s), viscous coupling.I had a service garage "Throw the Book at me".. from all Ball Joints, the Intermediate steering shaft...?? Struts, APPROX... $2600. Since the viscous coupling is NOT servicable.., How would we get it fixed...??? A NEW TRANSFER CASE? would NOT the new viscous coupling also go 'BAD" and have to be repaired again. by removing the front driveshaft, you determined the issue was the viscous coupling. can you just leave the front drive shaft OFF and Drive with ONLY the rear driveshaft (full time?).
Yes you can drive these AWD tcases with out the front driveshaft. just be sure to use your parking brake as due to the torque split there is not full holding going to rear wheels when in park. If you check out our channel we do a repair of the transfer case and replace the viscous coupling. they are about $500 if memory serves. but I'm like you, how do we know a rebuilt tcase has a new viscous coupling? most likely not...
Hey I have the same 02 mountaineer with the front diff blown had a big hole in it can I take the front drive shaft off and drive like that or will it fuck up the trans or transfer case
it should be ok to drive without the front ds installed, however be sure to use the parking brake when parking as it may not hold as much witj the trans in park esp on a hill
Do you have a limited slip rear end? have you recently changed the fluid and if so did you use friction modifier? The lsd clutches may be binding or chattering. also the rear diffs on these are a weak point. I had to replace mine as it rumbled on the highway and pinion bearing was shot...not sure that would cause binding though.
+Vortex Garage it is a limited slip rear end, and were not sure about how long or if the right fluid was even put into it. A friend of mine said the clutches might be bad to. So im thinking about just getting the fluid and using friction modifier, and crossing my fingers. Do you know how much fluid and friction modifier i will need?
+Michael Domino I dont recall the fill capacity for the LSD, but I beleive you add 4oz of friction modifier. Adding a bit more may further reduce chatter but will also reduce the effectiveness of the clutches. The owners manual if you have it, has the fill capacity of the diff in the Capacities chart. Also you fill up to the fill port on the back, and then replace that plug and fill from the top where the vent is. the plastic vent tube also can break easily so be careful, though is cheap to replace at the dealer. (mine was broken when I went to remove it) these are a pain to refill to factory spec compared to something like a Dana 44. Sorry I dont have the full specs handy, and I also do have video of a diff swap and fluid service i need to catch up on editing and posting.
I have a 97 mountaineer that I just replaced the cv shaft in it and on the way home from replacing it i started hearing some clicking and banging noises and I started slowing down and as soon as I get off the gas it starts to shake uncontrollably and it feels like the front of the vehicle is trying to drag and slow it down but as soon as I get on the gas the shaking stops and it just clicks. Do you have any clue what this is and what I can do to fix it?
I have a 2005 Mountaineer AWD. I replaced the front tires with new ones and right away started hearing a banging noise from the front of the truck. Like a fool i kept driving it like that for almost a month until i replaced the rear tires too and the noise went away but my mechanic told me i broke the front transfer case. Can the AWD system still work with a transfer case broken? I am trying to fix but is very expensive.
Kel M how did your situation pan out? Is your Mounty still driving ok? Did you have to do anything to the transfer case or are you just driving it anyway?
Yes, but make sure the ebrake works. it may not hold on a hill in park I have read. But this particular setup is ok to drive w no front driveshaft based on feedback Ive seen. The tcase output is flanged so no leaks if ds is removed.
@@VortexGarage - Not generally a good idea, although you might get away with it if the viscous coupler has already failed by seizing. See tcase.rsgear.com/articles/2006_11.pdf. The most relevant discussion there starts near the end of p. 33. In short, "After a short time of working constantly, the viscous coupling overheats and fails." Also note the discussion @7:10. Having one driveshaft out is the same as having ZERO traction on that end (and ZERO speed on that side of the transfer case), which causes the coupling to have to work constantly to get any drive to the connected end.
I removed thefront driveshaft on my 08 mountaineer and now it won't drive at all. No rear wheel drive as i thought it would be... Any idea what that's about?
Consider that removing a driveshaft forces the viscous coupling to serve as a clutch transmitting 100% of the power 100% of the time. It's only intended to help change the bias of power between front and rear on a temporary basis as needed. So removing a driveshaft will likely decrease the coupling life dramatically and may even cause failure. If it fails "open" the vehicle will lose any drive to the wheels (it effectively becomes an "open" center differential) Although if the coupling is "seized" it might work just fine.
@eddie money - Ignorance is bliss and sometimes you get lucky despite doing something stupid. If you have seized up the viscous coupler and have no front drive shaft, you would not be aware of any issues. Let us know if you get drivetrain binding (as shown in this video) when you put the front shaft back on.
@eddie money Got it! It's broke and you can't fix it and can't possibly make it any worse than it already is. Keep in mind I originally responded to a question about having NO drive with one drive shaft removed. Those symptoms are fully consistent with a viscous coupling having failed in "open" (i.e "no drive") mode - the opposite of being seized - which is what YOU probably have. I fully stand by what I said (and explained) originally. Feel free to believe whatever you want and good luck keeping you car going - crippled as it is.
@eddie money Most folks would consider an AWD vehicle with a nonoperational AWD system to be crippled. Maybe a better word is "hobbled." Whether it's broken or intentionally disabled hardly matters. Glad to hear that yours is working so well and you are so pleased with the vehicle! It's been nice chatting with you.
I've '02 mountaineer 4.0 liter awd with a popping noise coming from the front driver side wheel while driving straight down the road, it's very loud. I was told it ran for a bit with different size tires on the same axle. What do you think it could be? thanks
hard to say with certainty...one possible culprit would be the CV axle shaft. It could also be a brake issue too, if caliper was loose... Could also be in the driveline, if front driveshaft were removed and it stopped that may tell you more too. Also are you sure its front left? Ebrake shoes breaking apart in the rear can cause clicking. CV halfshalft sounds like the first thing to check. I would inspect the front end and pay attention to the CV axle boots for tears. inspect rest of front end for wear, tie rods, wheel bearing play, etc.
In my search for a video on the Merc AWD system I was glad to find this video but oh my word you creators thinking you gotta have obnoxious music playing over top is maddening.
Music is annoying, audio faint and totally boring! Dog was the best part if video! Who knows when this was made, but I’m so not interested in seeing anything else from content providers.
You're not in hollyweird where you can have the camera 10-15 feet away and you have a microphone clipped on your shirt!!! Having the hipster music and talking like you're inside a funeral home is a BAD IDEA!!! Save the music for when you're entertaining your butt buddies! This is supposed to be an informative and troubleshooting video. When you're narrating bring the dang camera up about two feet away so we can hear you, Nancy! The wider shots are for the non verbal footage captain Hollywood!!
Next video lose the stressful music, being stressed out because your daily driver is a piece of crap and having to take the day off to fix your piece of crap. Makes the music your playing very stressful.
Vortex Garage I see yeah mine is like locking up in 4 hi 4 low but driving in auto seams OK any ideas why ? just added fluid and the tires where at different pressures it makes a poping sound when or out my fuses are in its in all wheel drive 35%/65% it makes a clicking sound instead of a poping
the mechanic - If you pulled fuses 17 and 18 does the binding stop? If so it could be a fault in the 4wd controller, which I think on the explorer is behind the glovebox. That said I don't know procedures offhand for testing it, but if it goes away with the fuses pulled that may be a sign to look into that
the mechanic - also yeah on this Mountaineer it has a single speed mechanical AWD, no low range on it and it engaged by a viscous coupling do diff from the explorers electronic 4wd
Vortex Garage clicking noise with the fuses pulled popping sound when driving on pavement slow in 4 hi 4 low when you give it gas I do not know what it is e brake, axles, rear diff? my friend has a lift going to put it on that I guess
Yeah, we have learned since then! I've "remastered" several of our older videos with no music. I need to see if I still have the original files for this one, and try to do it next...
So happy that someone is out there doing videos like you just totally help me out of spending way more money than I need to and for that I thank you
You did an excellent job describing the diagnosing of the mountaineer with the steering binding problem. Thank you.
Actually, our Merc. Mountaineer is exactly the same color and has the same problem(s) with it... I hope you are still replying to inquiries on this youtube site. Very Well Done... Explained it so us common folk could understand and follow along. I can take your information to a garage and possibly avoid un-necessary repair costs and Zero in on the actualy problem and remedy.
Thank you again Vortex Garage.. J. Watson
thank you and good luck! left a reply on your other comment as well and hopefully it was helpful
Next time turn music off so we can hear the clunking or binding. Thanks
Is the all wheel drive in this mountaineer similar to that in a 2019 jeep grand cherokee?
So what did u order a new transfer case or front drive shaft
HOW does the 06 explorer 4 wheel drive system compare to this AWD system Vortex Garage ??
I'm having my front driveshaft removed now. Front differential is shot and grinds to where it doesn't want the truck to move. Hope it helps.
What could popping and clicking be?
Is it possible to drive the vehicle with the front drive shaft removed while I'm trying to locate a viscous coupling ?? Thanks
If it's totally locked up, you can drive it. But make sure the parking brake works well cause truck will creep even in park w/o the front drive shaft. Doable but not recommended. Had mine rebuilt by STE Couplers, still working well 5 years later. Need to rotate tires religiously at every oil change with this setup.
I was just under an 03 Mountaineer with a steering binding problem. The front diff mounting bushings are shot. Very common with these.
Marc Smith this one had that. I still need to edit the video but shot video as I replaced them with new bushings. Ended up removing the housing since I was also replacing the rack and balljoints so had it mostly apart in front
Vortex Garage what if it's not awd
What did you use? I am picking up the bushings from Ford today and doing the job at the end of the week. It is an odd design how they are in there. I was trying to purchase the OEM tools, but it can easily get over $500. I was thinking air hammer out and my hub bearing removal tools to re-install. Not looking forward to this one without the proper tools.
Marc Smith , going off memory, but used a ball joint press tool, press adapters and sockets to push them out. But the steel bushing outer rings also were corroded onto the aluminum diff housing so used penetrating oil and some punches to get them started. I think at least one was in so good (and the rubber so perished) that I basically caved in the outer steel rim of the bushing and punched it out. Aside the from the ball joint press clamp no Ford special tools needed
(the ball joint press I have is an OTC tool not sure Ford one btw)
My 04 ford explorer got a binding issue in a left hand turn. I had to get a new tire on the right rear. I drove it that way for a few weeks. Then I replaced them all with a new set. Binding solved. I also went from 235 to 245, they dont rub, and my speedo is finally showing the actual speed, compared to gps.
Hi, I have a 2007 mercury mountaineer and the ABS & traction control light are on. When I drive it it locks up the wheels. When you turn the front passenger wheel locks up as well. So I took out the AWD fuse and it drove fine. Only thing is now the brake light is on with the others. Please help. Thank you Greg
are you fis it oready? was the problem? thanks
Kudos to Vortex Garage. Took the front driveshaft out and the car drives as it actually should. You saved me a bunch of money.
Great to hear!!
Do you have to use your ebrake when parking or not?
So, does the vehicle roll in park, without the front driveshaft?
I have a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer AWD, the exact one you have worked on. I am having a problem with it that so far no one has been able to diagnose. The symptoms are: Loud hum that starts at around 15 mph and gets louder when turning to the right. It sounds like it is coming from the drivers side, and has a kind of rhythmic pulse. It quiets down and has a floating sensation when going over a hill. Also has Tire chirp when making sharp turns on dry pavement.
Tire wear is even and all matching tires...
We have replaced both Hubs in the front to try and get the hum to go away.
Other things that have been replaced are: front differential mount bushings on drivers side, sway bars links in front both sides, rear differential (spider gears, clutches, carrier bearing, pinion bearing, and seal), front and rear differential fluid, and transfer case fluid. None of these things were replaced due to the hum though.
The hum started when we hit, at very low speed, a huge pothole that had been filled with concrete. The concrete actually lifted up the drivers side about a foot off the ground and then dropped the mountaineer.
Any suggestions? We are at a loss...
just off the cuff, are the front half shafts ok? my first thought was hubs but you said those were done. How about the front driveshaft? Is the boot on the rzeppa joint near the transfer case ripped? also is the tire and wheel ok? Have you had the front drivers tire checked for a splipped or broken belt and any bent rim issues?
+Vortex Garage
The half shafts look and feel good. The tires and wheels are all good, now the front driveshaft boot is ripped, however the hum doesn't go away when the front driveshaft is out.
+marlo thurston Definitely a tough one. I'd try rotating the tires and see if the noise moves. othereise Ill have to think. Sounds alot like a hub but that was already done...and removal of driveshaft eliminates alot.
+Vortex Garage
Tires are rotated every 5000 miles, just done a few weeks ago. Sound doesn't change.
+marlo thurston only other rotational stuff is the front diff and the bearings in the front diff axle shafts. but maybe its not rotational, the drop may have damaged a motor mount or trans mount, or broke an exhaust hanger. it could be exhaust hitting something while move from something like this.
I cannot figure this out.. I got stuck in some snow heard a pop and won't drive at all and when I put in drive it just grinds. Drive shadt are not broke any ideas?
I take it the drive shafts both do not spin? My only guess would be two main things: 1.) a failure in the transfer case, such as the chain inside breaking. I think though if that were to happen the rear would still turn but I could be wrong. Also if one of the internal gears in the transfer case broke it could be grinding and not sending power.. 2.) unfortunately it could be an internal transmission failure - I'd look to see if it acts the same in reverse and try the other gears outside of drive to see if any change.
If you do see the one of the driveshafts moving though, it's possible something in one of the differentials or an axle CV broke. Either way best of luck trying to find the cause.
Thank you for Such a Quick Reply.. that's amazing. There is a push button on dash, (to the left of steering column. it sometimes says "OFF"... so I push it until it changes... or goes 'out'.. is this anything to do with Tranny.?
also. I have the guy sitting with a beachball on his lap, which is an airbag warning... how do I get this checked out...???
Sorry to hit you up with a couple other issues.. but hope you have a minute to reply again.
Thank youSir.
I have this same problem with my 2003 Mountaineer. Just got new tires so I know they are all the same size. How do I get this diagnosed properly to determine if it is the ball joints, steering shaft, drive shaft(s), viscous coupling.I had a service garage "Throw the Book at me".. from all Ball Joints, the Intermediate steering shaft...?? Struts, APPROX... $2600. Since the viscous coupling is NOT servicable.., How would we get it fixed...??? A NEW TRANSFER CASE? would NOT the new viscous coupling also go 'BAD" and have to be repaired again. by removing the front driveshaft, you determined the issue was the viscous coupling. can you just leave the front drive shaft OFF and Drive with ONLY the rear driveshaft (full time?).
Yes you can drive these AWD tcases with out the front driveshaft. just be sure to use your parking brake as due to the torque split there is not full holding going to rear wheels when in park. If you check out our channel we do a repair of the transfer case and replace the viscous coupling. they are about $500 if memory serves. but I'm like you, how do we know a rebuilt tcase has a new viscous coupling? most likely not...
Hey will this same procedure work on a 2003 Lincoln aviator or will I be able to simply remove fuses forbthis diagnostic test ???
Hey I have the same 02 mountaineer with the front diff blown had a big hole in it can I take the front drive shaft off and drive like that or will it fuck up the trans or transfer case
it should be ok to drive without the front ds installed, however be sure to use the parking brake when parking as it may not hold as much witj the trans in park esp on a hill
Ok so i took the front driveshaft out and its still binding in the rear, any recommendations? Oh and i replaced transfer case, still binding.
Do you have a limited slip rear end? have you recently changed the fluid and if so did you use friction modifier? The lsd clutches may be binding or chattering. also the rear diffs on these are a weak point. I had to replace mine as it rumbled on the highway and pinion bearing was shot...not sure that would cause binding though.
+Vortex Garage
it is a limited slip rear end, and were not sure about how long or if the right fluid was even put into it. A friend of mine said the clutches might be bad to. So im thinking about just getting the fluid and using friction modifier, and crossing my fingers. Do you know how much fluid and friction modifier i will need?
+Michael Domino I dont recall the fill capacity for the LSD, but I beleive you add 4oz of friction modifier. Adding a bit more may further reduce chatter but will also reduce the effectiveness of the clutches. The owners manual if you have it, has the fill capacity of the diff in the Capacities chart. Also you fill up to the fill port on the back, and then replace that plug and fill from the top where the vent is. the plastic vent tube also can break easily so be careful, though is cheap to replace at the dealer. (mine was broken when I went to remove it) these are a pain to refill to factory spec compared to something like a Dana 44. Sorry I dont have the full specs handy, and I also do have video of a diff swap and fluid service i need to catch up on editing and posting.
+Vortex Garage Thanks for the advise, ill get back to you on the results.
+Michael Domino you're welcome and good luck!
Turn the music down some or else talk LOUDER. Thanks. * Other than that, it was a helpful video.
My thoughts exactly!!!
🙉🙉🙉
On my 03 merc mountaineer the front driveshaft broke and beat the starter and bell housing out of it. Would've cost more to fix than it was worth
I have a clunk sound when the car is warm and coming to a stop, only if the car is stopping. any ideas?
is the drivetrain the same thing as a 2008 Mercury Sable all wheel drive
I have a 97 mountaineer that I just replaced the cv shaft in it and on the way home from replacing it i started hearing some clicking and banging noises and I started slowing down and as soon as I get off the gas it starts to shake uncontrollably and it feels like the front of the vehicle is trying to drag and slow it down but as soon as I get on the gas the shaking stops and it just clicks. Do you have any clue what this is and what I can do to fix it?
Wow, That truck is in great shape. Love the color
I realize I am kinda randomly asking but does anybody know of a good site to stream new movies online ?
@Brixton Derek I watch on Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
I have a 2005 Mountaineer AWD. I replaced the front tires with new ones and right away started hearing a banging noise from the front of the truck. Like a fool i kept driving it like that for almost a month until i replaced the rear tires too and the noise went away but my mechanic told me i broke the front transfer case. Can the AWD system still work with a transfer case broken? I am trying to fix but is very expensive.
Kel M how did your situation pan out? Is your Mounty still driving ok? Did you have to do anything to the transfer case or are you just driving it anyway?
Randall Caulder I took it back to the mechanic and it was actually the front differential that was broken.
I have a 03 mountaineer awd and when I turn it makes a rubbing sounds what do u think it could be ?
Lose the background music.
AMEN!!!
Amen annoying as fook
Turn music down, or talk LOUDER. Thanks. * Other than that, it was a helpful video.
can you safely drive this AWD vehicle without the front driveshaft installed?
Yes, but make sure the ebrake works. it may not hold on a hill in park I have read. But this particular setup is ok to drive w no front driveshaft based on feedback Ive seen. The tcase output is flanged so no leaks if ds is removed.
Thank you sir, very much
@@VortexGarage - Not generally a good idea, although you might get away with it if the viscous coupler has already failed by seizing.
See tcase.rsgear.com/articles/2006_11.pdf. The most relevant discussion there starts near the end of p. 33. In short, "After a short time of working constantly, the viscous coupling overheats and fails." Also note the discussion @7:10. Having one driveshaft out is the same as having ZERO traction on that end (and ZERO speed on that side of the transfer case), which causes the coupling to have to work constantly to get any drive to the connected end.
DR -
Thank you for the linked article.
How much for full repair like this I have a 04 mountaineer
Awd
My 04 has the same problem
what if it's not awd I have same thing took out drive shaft and it stopped it is auto 4wd has low and high bottom
I removed thefront driveshaft on my 08 mountaineer and now it won't drive at all. No rear wheel drive as i thought it would be... Any idea what that's about?
Your rear end of fucked or transmission not trading transfering torque to it
Consider that removing a driveshaft forces the viscous coupling to serve as a clutch transmitting 100% of the power 100% of the time. It's only intended to help change the bias of power between front and rear on a temporary basis as needed. So removing a driveshaft will likely decrease the coupling life dramatically and may even cause failure. If it fails "open" the vehicle will lose any drive to the wheels (it effectively becomes an "open" center differential)
Although if the coupling is "seized" it might work just fine.
@eddie money - Ignorance is bliss and sometimes you get lucky despite doing something stupid. If you have seized up the viscous coupler and have no front drive shaft, you would not be aware of any issues. Let us know if you get drivetrain binding (as shown in this video) when you put the front shaft back on.
@eddie money Got it! It's broke and you can't fix it and can't possibly make it any worse than it already is.
Keep in mind I originally responded to a question about having NO drive with one drive shaft removed. Those symptoms are fully consistent with a viscous coupling having failed in "open" (i.e "no drive") mode - the opposite of being seized - which is what YOU probably have.
I fully stand by what I said (and explained) originally. Feel free to believe whatever you want and good luck keeping you car going - crippled as it is.
@eddie money Most folks would consider an AWD vehicle with a nonoperational AWD system to be crippled. Maybe a better word is "hobbled." Whether it's broken or intentionally disabled hardly matters.
Glad to hear that yours is working so well and you are so pleased with the vehicle!
It's been nice chatting with you.
I have an 02 astro awd binding in drive but not reverse
What does this cost to repair......can someone very novice complete this task
Hey i have the same car please how i turn off the ABS
I'm doing some investigating for Matthias
Cant hear you over the music. Or anything
Had wrench and trouble trouble backing up
Prior salvage! Please help
I don't know all wheel. I've had help 2x figer baring. No one will specify .it's passenger side. More than tires
ALL READY HELP TOTALLY
my merc mountaineer is draging rear tire when turning right
could be an issue with the rear differential esp if you have an LSD.
Lose the background music! Makes it hard to hear, beside it sucks!
Had many . But not a AWD V8
I've '02 mountaineer 4.0 liter awd with a popping noise coming from the front driver side wheel while driving straight down the road, it's very loud. I was told it ran for a bit with different size tires on the same axle. What do you think it could be? thanks
hard to say with certainty...one possible culprit would be the CV axle shaft. It could also be a brake issue too, if caliper was loose... Could also be in the driveline, if front driveshaft were removed and it stopped that may tell you more too. Also are you sure its front left? Ebrake shoes breaking apart in the rear can cause clicking.
CV halfshalft sounds like the first thing to check. I would inspect the front end and pay attention to the CV axle boots for tears. inspect rest of front end for wear, tie rods, wheel bearing play, etc.
I miss my 04 mountaineer
In my search for a video on the Merc AWD system I was glad to find this video but oh my word you creators thinking you gotta have obnoxious music playing over top is maddening.
Pretty good video, but please loose the goofy music!!!!
🙉🙉🙉
You concluded that the viscous was bad before driving it with matching tires. You very well may have replaced it unnecessarily.
You must have your pet monkey just randomly selecting the background music. Please no more, video very helpful
Music is annoying, audio faint and totally boring! Dog was the best part if video! Who knows when this was made, but I’m so not interested in seeing anything else from content providers.
Im 60 All wheel need help 😊
Couldnt hear a thing ,your trying to be like one of them tv fixit shows but it would be better without all that music and poor sound.
You're not in hollyweird where you can have the camera 10-15 feet away and you have a microphone clipped on your shirt!!!
Having the hipster music and talking like you're inside a funeral home is a BAD IDEA!!!
Save the music for when you're entertaining your butt buddies!
This is supposed to be an informative and troubleshooting video.
When you're narrating bring the dang camera up about two feet away so we can hear you, Nancy! The wider shots are for the non verbal footage captain Hollywood!!
I know this is 7 years old, but the music is very annoying
Terrible music video. Maybe the instructions were okay, but I couldn't tell over the utterly bad and loud music.
Next video lose the stressful music, being stressed out because your daily driver is a piece of crap and having to take the day off to fix your piece of crap. Makes the music your playing very stressful.
Yea that music is really bad
Acting like a regular 4x4 at full steering lock, but worse.
all you had to do Is pull #17-18 fuses under the Hood lol
the mechanic this is a mechanical setup and no electronically controlled. I think the explorer has that setup as an option
Vortex Garage I see yeah mine is like locking up in 4 hi 4 low but driving in auto seams OK any ideas why ? just added fluid and the tires where at different pressures it makes a poping sound when or out my fuses are in its in all wheel drive 35%/65% it makes a clicking sound instead of a poping
the mechanic - If you pulled fuses 17 and 18 does the binding stop? If so it could be a fault in the 4wd controller, which I think on the explorer is behind the glovebox. That said I don't know procedures offhand for testing it, but if it goes away with the fuses pulled that may be a sign to look into that
the mechanic - also yeah on this Mountaineer it has a single speed mechanical AWD, no low range on it and it engaged by a viscous coupling do diff from the explorers electronic 4wd
Vortex Garage clicking noise with the fuses pulled popping sound when driving on pavement slow in 4 hi 4 low when you give it gas I do not know what it is e brake, axles, rear diff? my friend has a lift going to put it on that I guess
Please remove that music.
aaaagggghhhhhh,music has to go .
Yeah, we have learned since then! I've "remastered" several of our older videos with no music. I need to see if I still have the original files for this one, and try to do it next...
@@VortexGarage It is informative though dont get me wrong ,Im happy it was on here thanx for the help .
the music SUCKS!!!!