Really great fun.Never done this,0 experience.But the original peugeot 139qmb are different from the extra motor I bought,and none of the 101-octane spare parts fits in the screw-holes.So for my 900 dollar V-Clic it will be the original parts,wich are expensive,but all other are to repair and fitted.So none 139qmb engines are alike.Few criminal millimeters.
I need to get a new gasket on my QJ gearbox. It has a slow leak especially since I changed over to lighter weight synthetic Lucas. I should probably jump on the forum and print out a template. I never knew about this supplemental support. I guess them leaving that $1 bearing out helped production cost that much, but the Taiwan made Etons have them. Learn something everytime I see one of these vids.
I learned about it from forum members too. IIRC none of us knew if it would work, but they knew about some having that extra support so I tried it. I used to change a lot of primary driveshaft bearings because of play. The gearbox is still far from bulletproof, but it's definitely an improvement.
My limited experience with 139 gearboxes is that the outer race of the bearings should be more flush than you show on the video. Just as you did the first assembly, I said to myself that added bearing was 'out' too far, and would get the input shaft into a bind. Wrong as to the cause, but still think the outer race should be driven deeper. I had a slight problem with the intermediate and output bearings on the large case side, and had to drive them both deeper. As usual, a good demonstration and clear explanation.
Someone told me about it and showed me a vid. Didn't see any detail about how it is tuned or if you're stuck with what you get. No in depth info. It looks neat though.
I think maybe.. It take more on the shaft when using the lathe machine.. Correct me if im wrong.. There will be a little bit of resistance on the bearing.. But in the video it has a play..🤔🤔🤔
A little resistance and getting stuck in the bearing are different. That bearing is supposed to be more like some of the other gearbox bearings where shafts fit in without a press or interference fit.
Okay sir.. By the way.. Im a big fan here.. I always watch your videos about 2 stroke scooter.. Hope there will be a honda dio in your upcoming project
How do you get that rear brake holder with the 12mm nut on the inside of the case you took off the old engine to put on the new. I got the nut off of it but it won’t come out of the engine case
They can be a bit snug. May need to be tapped out once the nut is removed. If tapping starts heading toward beating, try to add a little heat to the area (~250F will usually expand it enough to make even bearing removal easy) and then try tapping again.
what is the purpose of changing the Primary Gearing .... what do you achieve by it, I understand it with the secondary gearing but do not understand the point with it on Primary gearing. can you not explain it to me, because I have funnily enough worked with Scooter for many years and built them up for Track driving, but I have never had to change a primary gearing part
Primary or secondary doesn't matter if you're just looking at ratio. Change to whatever combination gets the final drive ratio where you want it. In this case, the primary gears allow for an extra bearing that takes some slop out of the final drive transmission.
For me, it's worth the change from 10 to 11:1. I've had much less trouble with the gearbox using the gears that allow for more support, plus I am heavy and strong acceleration is my main goal.
You could. Prob gonna depend on gasket material and thickness and type of printer. I find it easy enough to transfer as shown. The real trick setup is the cricut or something like that and other laser cutting rigs where you load material and it spits out gaskets.
Hello, I have a scooter with a Piaggio engine and I have primary gear ratios of 13/46 and secondary gear ratios of 13/48. Which tuning gears should I install?🤔
That's roughly 13.07:1, which is pretty deep (low speed). I was using ~11:1 in my 86cc and that worked well for me at that power level with a 130/70-12 rear tire. With smaller tires, you may want an even lower gear ratio number.
@@krystian9439 Calculation of the ratios is easy. 49 ÷ 13 = 3.77 and 47 ÷ 16 = 2.94. Multiply those ratios. 3.77 x 2.94 = 11.08. So your final drive ratio would be 11.08:1.
Hi I'm from Europe we have the same block I always watched your video coz I learned a lot from you. Just one question where did you bought that primary drive shaft? I found one on Ebay but I'm not sure if it is the right one. Model: Eton beamer 50cc Code: 750152
1st comment. Hmmm correct me if i am wrong and i may be. But would you not want lower revs at speed than higher ? I'm missing something i think. Or you want to get to the power band faster ? It would seem numerically lower gears would get more top end speed or that is not what you are after. Or am i just not wrapping my brain around the right thing.
I couldn't care less about top speed. Well, I want to be able to go 60. Beyond that, whatever. I'd rather try to drag race or get the front end up. You have the right idea though. Also remember that I'm 300lb, so numerically low gearing isn't going to treat me well for taking off.
@@49ccscoot I'm not far off at 250 lbs. I looked at it as lower revs means not burning up all my gas. Two strokes have a drinking problem, they drink all the gas in the tank fast. And more revs mean more gas. I really did think i had wrong. I find myself needing to go to rural locations, not a lot of gas stations or none. Sick of taking jugs of gas with me. And i have looked for lower gears for my toy and do not find any. i will gladly trade slow off line for better mileage at speed. 40 to 50 is fine for speed where i need to ride. I can not handle pushing a bike that weighs as much as i do Very far, i'll ditch it off the road and come back with the truck. My 175 is a gas pig very poor mileage - rotary valve that's why. Sorry for my being stupid i just got out of the hospital a few days ago, still a bit duh. Gotta be a way to get big torque off the line and a fat curve thru midrange, and a rev at speed that keeps gas in the tank. I want too much don't i ? I still think there must be a way to do it. Pain meds make the ramble worse so i'll stop. Really like the build, and want to see what you get out of it on the road. Looks like a very nice cylinder seems worth the cash.
Really great fun.Never done this,0 experience.But the original peugeot 139qmb are different from the extra motor I bought,and none of the 101-octane spare parts fits in the screw-holes.So for my 900 dollar V-Clic it will be the original parts,wich are expensive,but all other are to repair and fitted.So none 139qmb engines are alike.Few criminal millimeters.
I need to get a new gasket on my QJ gearbox. It has a slow leak especially since I changed over to lighter weight synthetic Lucas. I should probably jump on the forum and print out a template. I never knew about this supplemental support. I guess them leaving that $1 bearing out helped production cost that much, but the Taiwan made Etons have them. Learn something everytime I see one of these vids.
I learned about it from forum members too. IIRC none of us knew if it would work, but they knew about some having that extra support so I tried it. I used to change a lot of primary driveshaft bearings because of play. The gearbox is still far from bulletproof, but it's definitely an improvement.
My limited experience with 139 gearboxes is that the outer race of the bearings should be more flush than you show on the video. Just as you did the first assembly, I said to myself that added bearing was 'out' too far, and would get the input shaft into a bind. Wrong as to the cause, but still think the outer race should be driven deeper.
I had a slight problem with the intermediate and output bearings on the large case side, and had to drive them both deeper. As usual, a good demonstration and clear explanation.
It's as deep as it goes. Works fine. My other one is the same way. Thank you though.
Have to seen or tried the new Reveno Seamless
Transfer
Clutch yet.
Someone told me about it and showed me a vid. Didn't see any detail about how it is tuned or if you're stuck with what you get. No in depth info. It looks neat though.
@@49ccscoot they have a website
Yeah don't forget to put gear oil remember what happened to the other one.
I think maybe.. It take more on the shaft when using the lathe machine.. Correct me if im wrong.. There will be a little bit of resistance on the bearing.. But in the video it has a play..🤔🤔🤔
A little resistance and getting stuck in the bearing are different. That bearing is supposed to be more like some of the other gearbox bearings where shafts fit in without a press or interference fit.
Okay sir.. By the way.. Im a big fan here.. I always watch your videos about 2 stroke scooter.. Hope there will be a honda dio in your upcoming project
0:17 "hammer it out" ??? You can simply make a fotocopy in the copyshop !
Muito bom trabalho.
Make a disc brake build
How do you get that rear brake holder with the 12mm nut on the inside of the case you took off the old engine to put on the new. I got the nut off of it but it won’t come out of the engine case
They can be a bit snug. May need to be tapped out once the nut is removed. If tapping starts heading toward beating, try to add a little heat to the area (~250F will usually expand it enough to make even bearing removal easy) and then try tapping again.
Ok thanks I also have a press would that be to much?
@@nastynatesscooters9896 That could work. Again, if it seems like excessive force, try heating and then pressing.
At what strength are the differential screws tightened?
Is it enough to tense them with hand feel or do I need a special key for that?
A lot of people do them by hand. I torque them to 12.5-15ft-lb.
@@49ccscoot OK, thank you for fast reply, you help me a lot! Great videos btw
what is the purpose of changing the Primary Gearing ....
what do you achieve by it, I understand it with the secondary gearing but do not understand the point with it on Primary gearing.
can you not explain it to me, because I have funnily enough worked with Scooter for many years and built them up for Track driving, but I have never had to change a primary gearing part
Primary or secondary doesn't matter if you're just looking at ratio. Change to whatever combination gets the final drive ratio where you want it. In this case, the primary gears allow for an extra bearing that takes some slop out of the final drive transmission.
11:1 is stock gearing on a rexy block i use 9:1 on my set ups better top speed
For me, it's worth the change from 10 to 11:1. I've had much less trouble with the gearbox using the gears that allow for more support, plus I am heavy and strong acceleration is my main goal.
Why not print directly into the gasket material instead of printer paper?
You could. Prob gonna depend on gasket material and thickness and type of printer. I find it easy enough to transfer as shown. The real trick setup is the cricut or something like that and other laser cutting rigs where you load material and it spits out gaskets.
Do you have old cases for sale ?
No, sorry.
Hello, I have a scooter with a Piaggio engine and I have primary gear ratios of 13/46 and secondary gear ratios of 13/48. Which tuning gears should I install?🤔
That's roughly 13.07:1, which is pretty deep (low speed). I was using ~11:1 in my 86cc and that worked well for me at that power level with a 130/70-12 rear tire. With smaller tires, you may want an even lower gear ratio number.
@49ccscoot Will primary gear ratios of 14/39 and secondary gear ratios of 16/47 be good? How to calculate it?
Tire 130/60 r13
@@krystian9439 Calculation of the ratios is easy. 49 ÷ 13 = 3.77 and 47 ÷ 16 = 2.94. Multiply those ratios. 3.77 x 2.94 = 11.08. So your final drive ratio would be 11.08:1.
@@49ccscoot Ok. Does this ratio affect speed or acceleration?
Hi I know your the man to ask I need to know what mallosi belt is slightly longer around 5 mm or 10 mm than a 617587/1 please help ??
617587 appears to be 17.5x8x805x30.
The belt that I regularly use is a 6111108. It's 17.5x8x815x30.
Hi I'm from Europe we have the same block I always watched your video coz I learned a lot from you. Just one question where did you bought that primary drive shaft? I found one on Ebay but I'm not sure if it is the right one. Model: Eton beamer 50cc Code: 750152
I got it from Get 2 It Parts, and the code where I ordered it is also 750152.
@@49ccscoot thanks man!😀
Thats very creative and the gasket tracing is something new to me now i have an idea where to get them thanks
1st comment. Hmmm correct me if i am wrong and i may be. But would you not want lower revs at speed than higher ?
I'm missing something i think. Or you want to get to the power band faster ? It would seem numerically lower gears would get more top end speed
or that is not what you are after. Or am i just not wrapping my brain around the right thing.
I couldn't care less about top speed. Well, I want to be able to go 60. Beyond that, whatever. I'd rather try to drag race or get the front end up. You have the right idea though. Also remember that I'm 300lb, so numerically low gearing isn't going to treat me well for taking off.
@@49ccscoot I'm not far off at 250 lbs. I looked at it as lower revs means not
burning up all my gas. Two strokes have
a drinking problem, they drink all the gas in the tank fast. And more revs mean more gas. I really did think i had wrong. I find myself needing to go to rural locations, not a lot of gas stations or none. Sick of taking jugs of gas with me. And i have looked for lower gears for my toy and do not find any. i will gladly trade slow off line for better mileage at speed. 40 to 50 is fine for speed where i need to ride. I can not handle pushing a bike that weighs as much as i do
Very far, i'll ditch it off the road and come back with the truck. My 175 is a gas pig very poor mileage - rotary valve that's why.
Sorry for my being stupid i just got out of the hospital a few days ago, still a bit duh.
Gotta be a way to get big torque off the line and a fat curve thru midrange, and a rev at speed that keeps gas in the tank. I want too much don't i ? I still think there must be a way to do it.
Pain meds make the ramble worse so i'll stop. Really like the build, and want to see what you get out of it on the road. Looks like a very nice cylinder seems worth the cash.
@@johnrobinson357 With a 175, I'd think you could do just fine off the line with some taller gears.