Great video. Very helpful. I don't want to be one of those know it all guys BUT, in my experience pulling and reinstalling axles about 8-10 times for axle and bearing swaps. Be careful about using an air tool on the axle nut. If the axle is a bit stiff pulling in it will strip those threads. I already had to rethread one axle I stripped like that. I am glad you mentioned the fragility of the sheet metal end caps of the axles. They do get damaged easily.
Thanks for the feedback! I totally get ahead of myself when it comes to things that require experience and feel. The axle nut is a solid point. I’ve had it happen once. Knowing how many threads to catch first is imperative. -Mike
First comment!?! Well thanks guys. I'm just getting to replace those seals, and good I watched this since I'll need those dust-seals since I havent' got the BMW-toy you have. Also, as a Scandivaian I envy you regarding the lack of rust on everything. Edit: Wow! For those in the same situation, those dust-seals start at at least €40 on ebay. Each!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! And we’re in Connecticut, there’s plenty of rotted out vehicles, this one just happens to be in very nice condition. As for the shields, maybe try to create a tool or method to mimic the tool/leverage that we have! It takes quite a bit of force to free it up but it may be worth it to save €80+ -Mike
I like how meticulous able careful you are. That’s a pro job. Instead of measuring how far the seal should go in, would the axle push it in to the correct depth when you reinstall it?
We’re pretty meticulous with the work we do. Check out or Instagram! @Newenglandbav! And pushing the seal in with the axle would more than likely cause an interference between the two parts. -Mike
@@BMWguru yeah it’s extremely similar. That silver tool shown is actually designed to pull the f3x+ axles from the differential. Us using it on the e9X axle hubs was just improvised. -Mike
@@BMWguru those f chassis axles can be a pain. I bought the tool to avoid damaging them. Maybe look around RUclips and see if there’s an alternative to removing them. -Mike
I don't think any suspension bolts need to come out for this job. Just undo the six bolts on the diff flange (move the joint upwards first to get it out of the "cup") then support the driveshaft off to the side somewhere. No need to undo suspension stuff and mess up the alignment. I don't think the driveshaft needs to come out of the hub either? And air hammer isn't the best tool to remove driveshaft from hub, it can damage the wheel bearing as there's no preload on it.
Not to be that guy but, why not just drop the diff out entirely? I’ve never had to remove the control arms bolt to lower the axels. But besides that very informative 👌
Well this video is for replacing a single output shaft seal so removing the differential isn’t part of that procedure and is much more work for no reason. -Mike
I guess, just kinda seemed excessive pulling the shafts, saves a castle nut purchase lol. But at the same time the other hardware would be the same if not more in cost since one time use aluminum hardware haha. Just was something easier for me. Servicing the whole thing at once haha
@@michaelcater6754 those castle nuts are normally rusted to the point you can’t even get a socket on them for the cars up north. We try to change them at any chance we can 😂. And yeah if we were serving the whole diff we’d pull it, we do it in another video on an e39 m5 but this was just the one seal so it’s the simplest way. Axle fully remove to make room for yourself and tools. -Mike
Great video. Very helpful. I don't want to be one of those know it all guys BUT, in my experience pulling and reinstalling axles about 8-10 times for axle and bearing swaps. Be careful about using an air tool on the axle nut. If the axle is a bit stiff pulling in it will strip those threads. I already had to rethread one axle I stripped like that. I am glad you mentioned the fragility of the sheet metal end caps of the axles. They do get damaged easily.
Thanks for the feedback! I totally get ahead of myself when it comes to things that require experience and feel. The axle nut is a solid point. I’ve had it happen once. Knowing how many threads to catch first is imperative. -Mike
Yes exactly I do use an old nut to pull the axle through but only after I've got a full run of threads
First comment!?! Well thanks guys. I'm just getting to replace those seals, and good I watched this since I'll need those dust-seals since I havent' got the BMW-toy you have. Also, as a Scandivaian I envy you regarding the lack of rust on everything.
Edit: Wow! For those in the same situation, those dust-seals start at at least €40 on ebay. Each!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! And we’re in Connecticut, there’s plenty of rotted out vehicles, this one just happens to be in very nice condition. As for the shields, maybe try to create a tool or method to mimic the tool/leverage that we have! It takes quite a bit of force to free it up but it may be worth it to save €80+ -Mike
I like how meticulous able careful you are. That’s a pro job. Instead of measuring how far the seal should go in, would the axle push it in to the correct depth when you reinstall it?
We’re pretty meticulous with the work we do. Check out or Instagram! @Newenglandbav! And pushing the seal in with the axle would more than likely cause an interference between the two parts. -Mike
Would this process work the same fir newer F series cars? I have a 2015 F36
@@BMWguru yeah it’s extremely similar. That silver tool shown is actually designed to pull the f3x+ axles from the differential. Us using it on the e9X axle hubs was just improvised. -Mike
@@bavhaustv9795 cool thanks, don’t have the special puller, would using two crowbars work on pulling the axle out of the diff?
@@BMWguru those f chassis axles can be a pain. I bought the tool to avoid damaging them. Maybe look around RUclips and see if there’s an alternative to removing them. -Mike
I don't think any suspension bolts need to come out for this job. Just undo the six bolts on the diff flange (move the joint upwards first to get it out of the "cup") then support the driveshaft off to the side somewhere. No need to undo suspension stuff and mess up the alignment.
I don't think the driveshaft needs to come out of the hub either? And air hammer isn't the best tool to remove driveshaft from hub, it can damage the wheel bearing as there's no preload on it.
Not to be that guy but, why not just drop the diff out entirely? I’ve never had to remove the control arms bolt to lower the axels. But besides that very informative 👌
Well this video is for replacing a single output shaft seal so removing the differential isn’t part of that procedure and is much more work for no reason. -Mike
I guess, just kinda seemed excessive pulling the shafts, saves a castle nut purchase lol. But at the same time the other hardware would be the same if not more in cost since one time use aluminum hardware haha. Just was something easier for me. Servicing the whole thing at once haha
@@michaelcater6754 those castle nuts are normally rusted to the point you can’t even get a socket on them for the cars up north. We try to change them at any chance we can 😂. And yeah if we were serving the whole diff we’d pull it, we do it in another video on an e39 m5 but this was just the one seal so it’s the simplest way. Axle fully remove to make room for yourself and tools. -Mike
What is this differential joint removal tool?
It’s the dealer tool for removing splined hubs!
Anyone have the part number? 2011 328i x drive n51
For which part?
For the seal..: