When I first started doing bridal alterations ( was the 80s) this is how almost every gown was hemmed. Now I rarely do it! But my method was always exactly the same as this. Bridal sewing techniques has never steered us wrong that I have seen. Plus I have learned a lot watching! Most of what I know is self taught from experience.
As I was taking some applique up from a tulle skirt this morning I went to grab a tool I use to tie off beads and thought of you because I have never seen you use one and it is kind of a rare tool but I find it terribly useful. It is a reweaving tool called a latch needle. One brand is called fabricon but it is usually just called a French reweaving tool. It looks like a tiny latch hook for making a rug. They sell a similar tool called a knit picker but these are much finer. I find it extremely useful in tying off bead strings as well as pulling snags and bead strings to the back of very fine fabrics. I use mine a lot and thought if you didn't know about it you might find some use in it too.
Thank you for telling me about it! I'll look into it. :D I love to learn about new tools & tricks. Edit: I just looked it up! I have a long one of these. I just didn't know what it is called. Lol. I've used mine for pulling elastic or spaghetti straps, etc. I haven't used for pulling individual threads through when beading.
This tutorial is a life saver and not to mention money saver! I wanted to temporarily hem a dress for myself but have the option to let the hem out for my daughter for the future. This is just what I needed! Thank you so much!
Hi there. I’m altering a ball gown now that is 11 layers. Hemming from the waist a must. The time it will save even reattaching a portion of the zipper & stitching dn the lace over the waist is so important. All but 2 layers on this gown are “different” cut, or need cut separately & 5 are rolled hems. This is the kind of gown you can make money on & still be kind to your clients debit card. This is a great video… as usual ❤
I'm this girls daughter and I have always loved designing and when i get older im gonna make a wedding dress shop! Im watching all your videos to learn and im gonna make a dress when the corrona stuff is over! Im gonna be a bride on halloween!!!
I once did a deep lace app hem at the waist. But the dress was so off at the hemline I had to do up and down at the waist. I pinned it to death and threw it on a mannequin that I had set up beforehand adjusted to her height. It worked but man I didn't charge enough lol
Love your voice! You are easy to listen to! Does anyone know what brand of thread she uses? Since this was videoed so long ago I’m sure she will not answer!
Due to recently losing my job as a CO. And my health declining I'm going to have to hem and take in a lot of the dress, going from a size 22 to 16.... I'm terrified and the thought of taking a razor to Cassandra (yes I named the dress) I'm so afraid. But I know I can do it with my mom's help. Still. Oh boy
Oh boy! This would save so much time on the dress I need to hem! Did you taper just to the side seam? Do you think that 3.5” needing to be removed is just too much for this method because of how full the skirt will become?
I have three layers on my dress that staves in the upper portion . The front is about 6ins to long . It has a train so we'd like for the front just to be coming up in the front so that she can walk and then drape down into the train. So do I cut all of that all three layers the same time? And sew them back over the staves or do I have to take all three layers apart?
Dropped waist wouldn't change anything. If you do this with a trumpet, it will raise where the flair occurs. I usually only do this with ballgowns that have pleats or a gathered waist. All others seem to fare better with hemming from the bottom.
No, I would do the 5" in front. Then, probs 3" at the side seams, then taper into the train. It is very rare for a bride to want her train hemmed. I only hem the train upon specific request.
If you have a full dress, would you take all layers up at the waist? Or do you hem those as usual and just the take up the outer layer at waist? Just curious if I am doing it wrong.
AllSewn Up I feel like I do this differently every time! I don't think there is a right way or a wrong way. Each dress is different and you really have to think through how each layer interacts. Sometimes, I only pull up the top layer and then hem the others from the bottom. Sometimes, I pull the whole stack up from the waist.
Thank you. I have only done this a couple times and the last one was all tulle and I only pulled the top layer. It was a nasty little struggle that made me ugly cry so hard that I had to go to my closet and have what I call an old fashion "come to Jesus meeting" with myself Ha! I sometimes with these dress come with a "how to sew me" tag lol! oy vey!
AllSewn Up understood! When it is an A-line, tulle or otherwise, (with no pleats or gathers) you have to re-do the taper from the new waist, down. Otherwise, you are reattaching too big of a "triangle" to the dress, and it won't lay right. I should do a vid on this, too. Lol!
Many wedding dresses have several layers attached to the lining below the natural waist depending on fullness . So you would have the lining and maybe layer of tulle or similar attached at waist to face of skirt but then you would have the crinoline layers at various stages below attached to the lining only maybe be more than one lining so to speak. Where on is against skin but other is used for fullness building. Typically one would be at hip area to open skirt. Anyway when you pull up the waist like she did here your pulling up the outer and lining fabric in one shot which then also pulls up whatever is attached to lining. I did have a situation where I did it just as you described above as time was a major issue but it was only an inch or so because of last minute weather related shoe change lol. I took up top layer at waist but to keep smoothness I lifted the under layer up before the tulle started with a few simple pick up.. one two stitch all around. Still it really is always a gown by gown thing. Some just have lots of seems to.work with and separate pieces coming together while others might be minimal and much more exact.
I have a VERY full 'Cinderella,' as I like to call them, multi-layered gown that needs about 2 inches off the hem...the hem is 4" horsehair braid. I would think taking it up at the waist would be better, but there's a beaded waistband (about 1.5").... I'm guessing I could just leave the waist band along and lift the skirt part up 2". She's OK with having the back longer. Can I just lift the front and blend into the sides? I really don't want to have to mess with the zipper. OR....is it just easier to hem it from the bottom -horsehair and all?
That's a personal preference. I would personally prefer to hem from the bottom. Although, the less you have to lift it, the easier it is to hem at the waist I only choose hemming at the waist if it is a pleated or gathered skirt, too. Those are faster & easier to get right.
Wow! Thank you for your lightning speed response! The skirt is very gathered with all the tulle and layers (like a ball gown - full of crinoline and all). But I think I will just stick to hemming from the bottom as you said. Thank you so much for your response! I really appreciate it! ‘Tis the season, and things are getting busy! Lol!
Mother of Groom, another seamstress started the work.. I am finishing it. The waist is marked 6 inches down and now fits her perfect for the hem however I now have to put the skirt back onto the top after adding lining to cover mesh.
When you take it up that much, you usually have to do it some in the back too. It's too much to "schmooze" in at the sides. This will require resetting the zipper, etc. :/
I presume this sewing technique is done for a gown with a train. If the gown did not have a train, then the waist would have to be taken up from the back as well, which would mean picking out the zip at the lower end and re attaching it with a shorter length.
Bridal Sewing Techniques That’s not what I meant. I know you dont hem up a train, there is no need to because shortening of a hem in this sort of gown only affects the front of the garment. That’s why I know that the video you are showing where you are only taking up the front waist and taping in a little on the side seams is for a gown with a train. Love your 💕videos and your channel thanks 🙏 so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for this tutorial, I need to alter a dress to make it look 1920s for a Gatsby party😂
When I first started doing bridal alterations ( was the 80s) this is how almost every gown was hemmed. Now I rarely do it! But my method was always exactly the same as this. Bridal sewing techniques has never steered us wrong that I have seen. Plus I have learned a lot watching! Most of what I know is self taught from experience.
Many seamsters love watching just for the confirmation of how they have been doing it all along. It is nice to know we aren't out in left field. 😂
As I was taking some applique up from a tulle skirt this morning I went to grab a tool I use to tie off beads and thought of you because I have never seen you use one and it is kind of a rare tool but I find it terribly useful. It is a reweaving tool called a latch needle. One brand is called fabricon but it is usually just called a French reweaving tool. It looks like a tiny latch hook for making a rug. They sell a similar tool called a knit picker but these are much finer. I find it extremely useful in tying off bead strings as well as pulling snags and bead strings to the back of very fine fabrics. I use mine a lot and thought if you didn't know about it you might find some use in it too.
Thank you for telling me about it! I'll look into it. :D I love to learn about new tools & tricks.
Edit: I just looked it up! I have a long one of these. I just didn't know what it is called. Lol. I've used mine for pulling elastic or spaghetti straps, etc. I haven't used for pulling individual threads through when beading.
@@BridalSewing no that's not the same. This is far far tinier. The whole shaft including the hook isn't much thicker than a standard quilting needle.
Oh neat. But same kind of idea/design, just smaller?
This tutorial is a life saver and not to mention money saver! I wanted to temporarily hem a dress for myself but have the option to let the hem out for my daughter for the future. This is just what I needed! Thank you so much!
Hi there. I’m altering a ball gown now that is 11 layers. Hemming from the waist a must. The time it will save even reattaching a portion of the zipper & stitching dn the lace over the waist is so important. All but 2 layers on this gown are “different” cut, or need cut separately & 5 are rolled hems. This is the kind of gown you can make money on & still be kind to your clients debit card. This is a great video… as usual ❤
I'm this girls daughter and I have always loved designing and when i get older im gonna make a wedding dress shop! Im watching all your videos to learn and im gonna make a dress when the corrona stuff is over! Im gonna be a bride on halloween!!!
I feel sorry for people who don’t know about you. Bless their heart.
I’m definitely keeping an eyebrow razor by me for seam ripping👀
Done beautifully!Thk you for sharing your video!😁
I once did a deep lace app hem at the waist. But the dress was so off at the hemline I had to do up and down at the waist. I pinned it to death and threw it on a mannequin that I had set up beforehand adjusted to her height. It worked but man I didn't charge enough lol
Rita Stogdill McVey soooo easy to undercharge! 🙈🤨
Been there done that.
Your music made me giggle. Love your text overlays also. Hehehe
Mara-lee Stricker It's kinda cartoons meet game show, meet running through an amusement park! It's kinda snappy and goofy like me. ;)
You made that look so easy! Great work!
Thank you for watching! ❤✂️🧵❤
Love your voice! You are easy to listen to! Does anyone know what brand of thread she uses? Since this was videoed so long ago I’m sure she will not answer!
I still answer. :)
Thank you! I use gutermann. All of my sewing supplies are linked to on my website, www.bridalsewing.com
What would some of the reasons you would use this technique over taking up at hem? Please
Hi!! This video was so helpful. I was wondering how you'd do this if there was a zipper in the middle?
This is great! Can you do this on the dress that doesnt have plaits please? Thanks xxx
Due to recently losing my job as a CO. And my health declining I'm going to have to hem and take in a lot of the dress, going from a size 22 to 16.... I'm terrified and the thought of taking a razor to Cassandra (yes I named the dress)
I'm so afraid. But I know I can do it with my mom's help. Still. Oh boy
Can we add front slit on this kind skirt.
Most dresses you can.
Do you have video that you add slit on pleated circle skirt?
No, sorry. Great idea, though!!
Oh boy! This would save so much time on the dress I need to hem!
Did you taper just to the side seam? Do you think that 3.5” needing to be removed is just too much for this method because of how full the skirt will become?
Thank you 🙏
Appreciate this info but I am shortening 6 inches at the waist. Any suggestions how to work with the extra fabric through the skirt front?
Id have to see a picture. Sewing questions are best in instagram DMs @bridalsewing
I would taper the side seams too.
I have three layers on my dress that staves in the upper portion .
The front is about 6ins to long .
It has a train so we'd like for the front just to be coming up in the front so that she can walk and then drape down into the train. So do I cut all of that all three layers the same time? And sew them back over the staves or do I have to take all three layers apart?
There's no way for me to know without a picture. You can DM questions on instagram @bridalsewing
why bring the lining down an inch from the seam? or did i not understand?
Doing this alteration what sort of cost are we looking at to do anyone?
Would you perform the same type of alterations on a dropped waist or trumpet style wedding dress?
Dropped waist wouldn't change anything. If you do this with a trumpet, it will raise where the flair occurs. I usually only do this with ballgowns that have pleats or a gathered waist. All others seem to fare better with hemming from the bottom.
@@BridalSewing Thanks for your help.
Great job!!! What if you had to hem that more than 4"? Would you unstick all the way to the back?
Yes, usually you reach a tipping point of when the taper is too drastic and you have to hem further back. :)
Bridal Sewing Techniques hi I have to hem 5” so would you advise me to go all way round ?? Thanks in advance 😊
No, I would do the 5" in front. Then, probs 3" at the side seams, then taper into the train. It is very rare for a bride to want her train hemmed. I only hem the train upon specific request.
Bridal Sewing Techniques thanks 😊
Love all you do 👍🏻
If you have a full dress, would you take all layers up at the waist? Or do you hem those as usual and just the take up the outer layer at waist? Just curious if I am doing it wrong.
AllSewn Up I feel like I do this differently every time! I don't think there is a right way or a wrong way. Each dress is different and you really have to think through how each layer interacts. Sometimes, I only pull up the top layer and then hem the others from the bottom. Sometimes, I pull the whole stack up from the waist.
Thank you. I have only done this a couple times and the last one was all tulle and I only pulled the top layer. It was a nasty little struggle that made me ugly cry so hard that I had to go to my closet and have what I call an old fashion "come to Jesus meeting" with myself Ha! I sometimes with these dress come with a "how to sew me" tag lol! oy vey!
AllSewn Up understood! When it is an A-line, tulle or otherwise, (with no pleats or gathers) you have to re-do the taper from the new waist, down. Otherwise, you are reattaching too big of a "triangle" to the dress, and it won't lay right. I should do a vid on this, too. Lol!
Yes please!!
Many wedding dresses have several layers attached to the lining below the natural waist depending on fullness . So you would have the lining and maybe layer of tulle or similar attached at waist to face of skirt but then you would have the crinoline layers at various stages below attached to the lining only maybe be more than one lining so to speak. Where on is against skin but other is used for fullness building. Typically one would be at hip area to open skirt. Anyway when you pull up the waist like she did here your pulling up the outer and lining fabric in one shot which then also pulls up whatever is attached to lining. I did have a situation where I did it just as you described above as time was a major issue but it was only an inch or so because of last minute weather related shoe change lol. I took up top layer at waist but to keep smoothness I lifted the under layer up before the tulle started with a few simple pick up.. one two stitch all around. Still it really is always a gown by gown thing. Some just have lots of seems to.work with and separate pieces coming together while others might be minimal and much more exact.
I have a VERY full 'Cinderella,' as I like to call them, multi-layered gown that needs about 2 inches off the hem...the hem is 4" horsehair braid. I would think taking it up at the waist would be better, but there's a beaded waistband (about 1.5").... I'm guessing I could just leave the waist band along and lift the skirt part up 2". She's OK with having the back longer. Can I just lift the front and blend into the sides? I really don't want to have to mess with the zipper. OR....is it just easier to hem it from the bottom -horsehair and all?
That's a personal preference. I would personally prefer to hem from the bottom. Although, the less you have to lift it, the easier it is to hem at the waist
I only choose hemming at the waist if it is a pleated or gathered skirt, too. Those are faster & easier to get right.
Wow! Thank you for your lightning speed response! The skirt is very gathered with all the tulle and layers (like a ball gown - full of crinoline and all). But I think I will just stick to hemming from the bottom as you said. Thank you so much for your response! I really appreciate it! ‘Tis the season, and things are getting busy! Lol!
What do you do if you have a zipper in the back.
I remove the zipper, do my work, then reset it as needed.
I have to do this soon. All the way around, with a zipper center back. A little leery…
You got this!!
My mama always said “You shouldn’t ‘smooze’ more than a scoshy bit.”
Perfect advice!!! 😂
Would I do the same thing is I was taking it up 6"?
Do you mean the waist is a full 6 inches too long?
I am doing the waist because to hem the bottom doesn't work. I have never done the waist like that before.. its a full pleated skirt.
Mother of Groom, another seamstress started the work.. I am finishing it. The waist is marked 6 inches down and now fits her perfect for the hem however I now have to put the skirt back onto the top after adding lining to cover mesh.
When you take it up that much, you usually have to do it some in the back too. It's too much to "schmooze" in at the sides. This will require resetting the zipper, etc. :/
I figured as much, do you think I will have to remove some of the skirt all the way down to the hem line?
I presume this sewing technique is done for a gown with a train. If the gown did not have a train, then the waist would have to be taken up from the back as well, which would mean picking out the zip at the lower end and re attaching it with a shorter length.
Yes, of course. Most bridal gowns do have trains, & it is very rare for a bride to want her train hemmed.
Bridal Sewing Techniques
That’s not what I meant. I know you dont hem up a train, there is no need to because shortening of a hem in this sort of gown only affects the front of the garment. That’s why I know that the video you are showing where you are only taking up the front waist and taping in a little on the side seams is for a gown with a train. Love your 💕videos and your channel thanks 🙏 so much for sharing your knowledge with us.