I had a feeling you'd get to these sooner or later. Interesting fact on them is these gears (the white ones you displayed) are most often hot-press formed or less often injection molded. OH! And that rubber band! Did you know the main reason for choosing a pair of wheels with a rubber band instead of just meshing gears was to prevent the torque transfer from the motor to the tape. They tried using gears and it would snap the tape in the cassette. If you go back to old 8 tracks you will still find that rubber band design because they didn't have "digital" motor control until later. Yeah I know that ages me pretty easily but I'm old so whatever!
the capstan/pinch roller determines tape speed, the spools just have to rotate with enough tension to wind the tape back on. as the gear ratio is constantly changing as the diameter on the spool changes, something has to slip... *pulls out the trusty bic pen and starts wirling cassettes* lol, the number of tapes i had to rebirth by swapping them into a new case... makes me wanna get the 4track back out, i miss playing things backwards and messing with the pitch control. made a friend puke his guts up by playing one track with my own form of "remixing"... oooooh, or getting "flanging/phasing" effects by double tracking on a slightly modified twin cassette deck... ie, remove the erase head...
@@paradiselost9946 I was hoping I'd get a commenter like you following up. I never got hard into mods or anything but I did have to repair a few automotive units back in the days before. What is rather surprising is rate of advancement for the tech. Took iirc 12 years for the first breakthrough (going from single sided encoding to both sides) and then nothing significant until CDs. Then those went extinct in half the time it took tapes with 10 times the advancements... only 2 years to go from massive disks to the "compact" versions and then another 2 for minidisk, and so on.
@@cjm5002 advancing, but also becoming obsolete faster. corrupting faster. lol, was playing a gramophone the other day. so, thats about a century old. half of my CD collection is now unplayable. theyve slowly died over the years. the ones ive burnt to hdd... theres times when i just want to hear a certain track again... search... search... gone... photos... nothing really of any merit from the last two decades. i refuse to use any of these "cloud" doodads. the other day attempted to go through my pile of HDDs... either i have to get hold of an older mobo due to that whole EFI/UEFI/blah blah deal, or theyre corrupt... dont like the idea of wasting money to find the latter... the only form of recorded media we have that will outlast us is those gramophone records... right conditions... theyll fossilise. or create impressions that will fossilise... and any "sentient" species with half a brain will figure out what thse spirals may be for... maynt know the direction of rotation, or the speed... but theyll get the idea of what theyre for. i foresee all this digital revolution collapsing shortly... and wont that be FUN!!!!
The issue with tight tolerances in wood is more long term. Because the moisture level changes, the wood will swell or shrink. The reamed hole will be fine for now, but in a day or two it may be too tight or loose.
i always preferred the "string and spring" dial mechanisms... love the old "hand routed" PCBs of the early years. i developed a hatred fro all bevel and crown wheels as they were used in the little tamiya cars.... yay, super avante! its actually relatively easy to generate proper bevel gear geometry with a slotting saw and TWO rotary tables. its a bit of number crunching, but once set up, its really just a matter of running back and forth and rolling the work as you progress... if you know the basic method of planing a spur gear, a bevel is just an extension of that theory. you are rolling a cone along a flat surface. it has a point of convergence. everything relates to that point. think of "taper roller bearings"... no special cutters, and you generate an ACCURATE profile for ANY pitch or tooth count... using just ONE saw blade. (no harm in stocking various thicknesses and diameters though ;)) i absolutely REFUSE to ever use involute cutters, theyre a waste of money. of limited range, and are always a compromise, even on plain spur gears. if you want any gear to have any degree of accuracy, high speeds, etc... you "generate" the profiles. watch a "gleasson bevel gear generator", and try to picture it as if the cutters stay stationary. replace the "two cutters" with "two opposite sides of single saw blade". dont try cutting one tooth at a time, just start at one extreme and work your way through them all until finished. 5 passes per flank is generally good enough, any more and you feel like youre simply cutting air. in that regard, CNC does make it relatively quick.
@@wrongtown what? a pivot? and a few stops? or a tilting vice? or even some angle blocks? you only have to change angle once per revolution. the tricky part is knowing what angle that is. or, more, how far to move the cutter for a given change in angle, as thats generally easier to measure. trigonometry... yuk. maths.
"The year 1994, which is a bit weird because neither I nor RUclips exist." 💀 As a person from 1986 with 3 younger siblings, the last of which was born in '93. I've never felt more attacked by any single statement in my life. The words I have left at this point are only suitable for a convo in full Aussie c words and f bombs in all
Keith Rucker recently (i.e., within the last 2-4 months) showed how to make a good approximation of a bevel gear using regular involute gear cutters. The bevel gear that he made was for a low-speed application, so he was fine with how he did it. I don't recall whether he said what his references were for the technique, but if you find his video, I'm sure that you'll be able to make a similar bevel gear.
I’ve watched a few of his bevel gear videos, which are fantastic, and it looks like he is using the proper bevel gear cutters. Unless it’s a video that I managed to miss. I’ll hav wit have another look. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Keith said that he did not have the *proper* bevel gear cutter for his job, but some research gave him the method that he used by using his standard cutter. His email address is shown in his videos, so i recommend asking him for the references that he used -- maybe you'll be able to do the same for low-speed bevel gears.
This face gear is gonna save me some trouble for sure, I have to figure a way to make them without a mill. Keep going! You are a necessary watch ever since I found your channel through the mini milling mods video I stumbled on. Regarding wood : MDF, HDF (Hardboard/Masonite), Plywood, Hardwood (Birch is my favorite) All make for really nice flat, stable, "dense" * high precision** replacement parts for poorly machined chinesium tools and machines, or Jigs/fixtures. I can make tight fitting parts, and in a mostly stable temperature environment with already acclimated wood it stays tight. If you add metal reinforcements, fire or friction harden the hardwood, use CA glue, it can last. * Density -- 25mm Birch is stronger and heavier than thin poorly cast AL or Fe **High Precision -- Requires Careful Operator who measures and/or scribe 10 times, cuts 2-3 times
I think crown gears work best when made from plastic rather than metal, because plastic flexes a bit and forgives some errors in the shape of the teeth.
It may be a bit of a niche topic but I would really enjoy a video that runs through some of your favourite reference texts at some point. I have a mech eng degree, but it only covered a fraction of what you know about mechanisms, gear trains and materials.
I came across "crown and pinion" gears in Meccano. I had a reasonable collection and loved making changeable gear trains and the like. The much more sophisticated helical crown and pinion is found in a typical rear axle differentials of road vehicles.
A good idea, especially if you are going to be using nylon or plastic gears is to simply copy existing gears. By copy, I don't IP, I mean literal copies like a xerox machine. Take a mold of it and then pour a plastic gear. You can also "repair" old cracked gears using this method. You simply repair the old gear with superglue and then take a mold of the repaired gear (the superglue will NEVER hold for use) and pour a new one. So long as the teeth are good, the new gear will be a perfect copy. This is really good for old one off plastic gears that have split (which you see a lot in consumer goods) because of age. They no longer work, but they still exist and so you can "repair" it with superglue and then make the copy. This method has been used for decades for small run parts, prototypes and even one offs in prop departments (an original can be made in wax which is easy to carve, and then a mold taken of the finished piece). Randy Raine has a youtube channel with many examples. I've been able to save some plastic parts in expensive items using this method.
This is actually perfect for the nutation wobbling gearbox I made and that's the type of gear usually used, Like bevel gears, the drawings are a bit complicated
This was great. I loved it. Great video, very interesting and helpful. For me as a beginner, it gave me ideas that of wondered about on making gears that I had not thought about. Thank you for sharing.
Great video! I just came upon the same mechanism in the gear train on my budget DTI . Well done and I will look forward to the direction this is taking you, cheers!
I don't think I've ever seen a motor paired with something with no reduction in gears. Reduction smooths out the system and increases torque proportional to the reduction.
Even most digital tuners (pretty much ALL modern(and by modern, I mean the 70s and 80) radios are digital, even if they have an analog dial) use string around the tuning knob to turn the tuning condenser. The goes back to the very early 30s. The earliest radio I have that is partially digital is from 1974. It uses an IF chip, but otherwise uses analog circuitry. The reason is digital is just a lot cheaper and simpler to build than a good analog circuit.
You might have to make a gear cutter made out of the result of cutting the pinion gear with multiple teeth, then line up the middle tooth as if it was a single ordinary gearcutter and cut the face gear like you did before. It might require some rounding, for as the gears move together, but this should give the correct taper at at least one angle. For the "rounding" bit, you may have to do it similar to a gear hob where both the cutter and the gear blank are rotating as the blank is being cut
E.L.O. - Unexpectedly good taste for such a young whippersnapper. 😉 As far as your statement "neither you nor I should exist" in 1994 is concerned, I'll have you know that I was busy with my university master thesis around that time, so I have written proof that I did, in fact, exist. 🤓
Was that plastic supposed to be Delrin (acetal?) It looked more like nylon or UHMWPE or something, the way it got all scraggy with cutting the teeth. I have plenty of white and black Delrin and it cuts beautiful and doesnt make that scruff like softer plastics do. And the white Delrin is very white, the plastic you had looks more like natural colour for nylon, PE, HDPE, UHMWPE etc.
@@artisanmakes Try Dotmar Plastics (Australia), they will cut to order and mail it to you, I get Delrin rod and sheet from them all the time. And yeah Nylon would match the colour of your piece and the scruffy cut edges. Delrin is a dream in comparison. 👍
i noticed that the unit was a Sony. if you are attempting to repair the cassette tape drive you may find that you couldn't have chosen a worse manufacturer. inside the play spindle there is a (for want of a better word) foam/paper disk that is incredibly fragile and is responsible for transferring rotation from the motor, gears, belts and pulleys into the tape compartment side of the play spindle. the foam/paper disk does this through friction . I'm guessing it was used to allow for slip in cases of the tape coming to its end, or if it jams, in order to not snap the tape. in reality it just wears thin and tears resulting in a cassette player where everything else will work but the play spindle will remain motionless.
Cut a 45* bevel gear at a 47* angle and the depth and width of the tooth will vary with the length of the tooth… Idk if thats a valid approach… but it’s definitely and idiots attempt at it
About the bevel gears, aren’t that just regular cutters that are being lowered into the material as your cut progresses? Can’t you make a gear train between the X and Z axis that lowers your cutting tool into the material as you progress?
I think the cutters are designed to account for the change/shrinkage in the size of the gear tooth as it gets towards the centre. That’s how I understand it
To reduce the uneven wear and contact from the arced motion of the teeth, and since it's sort of cup shaped, couldn't you do a second cutting pass? By that I mean cut the teeth like you have, then position the cutter slightly inward and just "plunge", so it cut's slightly outside of it's own centre line, and widening one side of the teeth slightly? Would that even help or would it just reduce the contact area and prevent binding?
Hi :) I have a question (I'm no expert at all) Could it be possible to give a tapper to the (soft steel) face gear by "grinding it" against a hardened-steel normal gear ? I don't know if hardening gears is even a good idea, it's just an idea that popped in my head :) thanks for the video as always ^^
this is circular rack and pinion or full sector rack it would make sense to be cut on a shaper or the way you did it like a normal rack and pinion rack with a teeth shape similar ro a circular gear of the same size
It would be nice to have shaper on hand wouldn’t it. I think that’s what using the next cutter size up tries to help with - giving it some extra clearance to get around that the teeth aren’t tapered
@@artisanmakes if you think about it the teeth actually are tapered, only valeys are not so it can't be too thick or too thin otherwise it would skid on the middle or lock up on the outer diameter you could even be stupid with the design and by only knowing the reduction and teeth number you want and machine around the teeth that actually work
Ha! A liquified rubber drive belt in a boom-box/cassette player - a VERY common fault - fortunately you can easily buy replacement belts or even make your own from stock rubber rod, carefully cutting to length with precisely squae ends, and joining the ends with super glue. Unfortunately cassette tapes don't last forever. Particularly if the tape was made by BASF - their tapes chemically deteriorate and smell like urine.
Don't make face cut gears out of metal. If you do there will be rapid wear. They work well for light loads if plastic because the plastic is elastic and the teeth bend a little as they go in and out of mesh. be sure to use plastic compatible grease.
Who bought music cassettes? I had out of the blue on LP and made a cassette copy on a high quality tape. Most of my LO’s were played once to transfer them
... i just realized cutting bevel gears woukd be as simple as mounting a dividing head on an old single point cutting metel shaper and turning the divinding head after adjusting for depth every full rotation. ... Huh. I found one use for a metel shaper. Making bevel gears.
not quite, but close. picture how a cone rolls on a flat surface. its TWO rotations. yes, you can cut them on a shaper, thats exactly what a gleasson bevel gear generator is doing, just with two cutters, working on opposing flanks at the same time. its a very fancy and specific use "shaper/planer/slotter". dont even have to grind a fancy "20 degree" tool, as thats achieved by rotating the work and offsetting the cutter. as the work rotates around, the cutters also rotate on the other axis, exactly like a cone rolls. everything converging to that central point of rotation. or, you can keep the cutter "fixed" and rotate the work whilst tilting it up or down as appropriate, for each "shave". i believe that was how the "bilgram generator" worked... not sure, theres scant information on those ones! once you have the maths figured out, a jig with the appropriate angle stops, and cutter depths written down, its almost faster to cut them this way. you can also do them with a regular slot saw, which is my preferred method, as its always the correct profile, regardless of pitch or tooth count. involute cutters are always a compromise, and having to stock whole sets of different pitches for things that may only get used once in a blue moon... seem rather pointless.
i don't know if you have heard of the youtube channel --hydraulic hands-----they have an gear hobbing machine that could give you some idea's.hope this helps
Low ratio worm drives (i.e. with a high helix angle on the worm) can be back driven, but efficiency tends to be pretty bad. Many electrically power assisted steering racks on modern cars use a worm drive that must be able to be back driven, so the steering still works when the rack isn't powered.
early trucks and cars used worm gears instead of hypoids. milk separators use worm gears that have to back drive. whereas a worm for a winch generally wont backdrive so it can hold a load up with no need for ratchets or brakes. its all about the helix angle. a worm gear is just an extreme helical gear. if the helix is 45 degrees (for shafts at right angles) then theres no preferential direction. the inefficiency is due to the massive sliding friction. differential oil stinks as it has a high sulfur content as it has to resist the sliding loads (hypoids slide rather than roll... ALL gears slide to a degree... helicals and worms are the worst for it) somewhere around 15-20 degrees they start to "lock". this also gets into multi start threading, as the tooth depth for certain helix angles goes deeper than the centerline of the "worm". think of them as an inclined plane... almost EVERYTHING can be treated like an inclined plane... a ballscrew with a steep pitch can be rather annoying when the nut back feeds and spills balls everywhere cus you didnt catch it in time... a four start lead screw on a 3d printer will also back feed... even two start ones will. so you rarely see anything but single starts on a 3d printers "z" axis. a tradeoff between resolution and speed. mine has two start threads and the table will drop if theres enough weight on it, when the steppers are turned off... rather annoying actually?
their is no conical hypoid bevel gear cutter, over trigonometry four/six cuts per tooth make a converging center tapper. but keep looking for the physically infeasible single cut tool that is mechanically implausible to existence without adding unwanted cut depth in certain arias of the gear that forces added mass to accommodate its related ignorance.
I have done nothing but support you and your channel, why do you hurt me with these words about 1994 being 30 years ago.
Huh? Already?! I refuse to believe so!
Same. Considered unsubscribing for the attack on me, but he’s spitting truth so can’t hate
Sadly it’s just a fact. We old.
And he wasn't even made then!
1996 here coming up on 30 in 2 years
the part with the book was gold 😂
Reaming a hole in wood? I would have NEVER thought of that. Kudos, and thank you for a tip I shall never forget.
Nice work on the gears. For wood, if you drill MDF and put thin CA glue in the hole it’ll reinforce the material so it’s stronger after reaming.
Crown gear is a common name. Often used in electronic appliances and toys.
Also in the Antikythera Mechanism, it's the input that you turn by hand and drives all the rest. So that's 2000 years of use for this shape of gear.
just look at old wooden gears and stuff in windmills and so on. All crown gear. Take a round disk,put some pins in and there you go
I had a feeling you'd get to these sooner or later. Interesting fact on them is these gears (the white ones you displayed) are most often hot-press formed or less often injection molded.
OH! And that rubber band! Did you know the main reason for choosing a pair of wheels with a rubber band instead of just meshing gears was to prevent the torque transfer from the motor to the tape. They tried using gears and it would snap the tape in the cassette. If you go back to old 8 tracks you will still find that rubber band design because they didn't have "digital" motor control until later. Yeah I know that ages me pretty easily but I'm old so whatever!
the capstan/pinch roller determines tape speed, the spools just have to rotate with enough tension to wind the tape back on. as the gear ratio is constantly changing as the diameter on the spool changes, something has to slip...
*pulls out the trusty bic pen and starts wirling cassettes*
lol, the number of tapes i had to rebirth by swapping them into a new case...
makes me wanna get the 4track back out, i miss playing things backwards and messing with the pitch control. made a friend puke his guts up by playing one track with my own form of "remixing"...
oooooh, or getting "flanging/phasing" effects by double tracking on a slightly modified twin cassette deck... ie, remove the erase head...
@@paradiselost9946 I was hoping I'd get a commenter like you following up. I never got hard into mods or anything but I did have to repair a few automotive units back in the days before. What is rather surprising is rate of advancement for the tech. Took iirc 12 years for the first breakthrough (going from single sided encoding to both sides) and then nothing significant until CDs. Then those went extinct in half the time it took tapes with 10 times the advancements... only 2 years to go from massive disks to the "compact" versions and then another 2 for minidisk, and so on.
@@cjm5002 advancing, but also becoming obsolete faster. corrupting faster.
lol, was playing a gramophone the other day. so, thats about a century old.
half of my CD collection is now unplayable. theyve slowly died over the years.
the ones ive burnt to hdd... theres times when i just want to hear a certain track again... search... search... gone...
photos... nothing really of any merit from the last two decades.
i refuse to use any of these "cloud" doodads.
the other day attempted to go through my pile of HDDs... either i have to get hold of an older mobo due to that whole EFI/UEFI/blah blah deal, or theyre corrupt... dont like the idea of wasting money to find the latter...
the only form of recorded media we have that will outlast us is those gramophone records... right conditions... theyll fossilise. or create impressions that will fossilise...
and any "sentient" species with half a brain will figure out what thse spirals may be for... maynt know the direction of rotation, or the speed... but theyll get the idea of what theyre for.
i foresee all this digital revolution collapsing shortly... and wont that be FUN!!!!
The issue with tight tolerances in wood is more long term. Because the moisture level changes, the wood will swell or shrink. The reamed hole will be fine for now, but in a day or two it may be too tight or loose.
He chose wood for a quick test, and for that it's perfectly fine. I'm sure he's aware that wood is not the right material for a long term application.
@@_Jester_ he had commented about being surprised it was accurate in wood. I was replying to that.
I'm not an expert, but I have always been told to use reamers on low rpms instead of the high speed you are doing. Keep up the great work!
On plastic and wood it's ok to have some more rpms.
@@filopat67soft materials can have a little more RPM, as a treat 🙌
@@filopat67 plastic might melt and wood can cause more friction - heat (bad idea). I would stick to low speeds.
@@_Jester_ Nah, I've been doing things like that for over thirty years, never once had had any problems.
Very nice work sir. You made it look easy.
i always preferred the "string and spring" dial mechanisms...
love the old "hand routed" PCBs of the early years.
i developed a hatred fro all bevel and crown wheels as they were used in the little tamiya cars.... yay, super avante!
its actually relatively easy to generate proper bevel gear geometry with a slotting saw and TWO rotary tables. its a bit of number crunching, but once set up, its really just a matter of running back and forth and rolling the work as you progress... if you know the basic method of planing a spur gear, a bevel is just an extension of that theory. you are rolling a cone along a flat surface. it has a point of convergence. everything relates to that point. think of "taper roller bearings"...
no special cutters, and you generate an ACCURATE profile for ANY pitch or tooth count... using just ONE saw blade. (no harm in stocking various thicknesses and diameters though ;))
i absolutely REFUSE to ever use involute cutters, theyre a waste of money. of limited range, and are always a compromise, even on plain spur gears. if you want any gear to have any degree of accuracy, high speeds, etc... you "generate" the profiles.
watch a "gleasson bevel gear generator", and try to picture it as if the cutters stay stationary. replace the "two cutters" with "two opposite sides of single saw blade". dont try cutting one tooth at a time, just start at one extreme and work your way through them all until finished. 5 passes per flank is generally good enough, any more and you feel like youre simply cutting air.
in that regard, CNC does make it relatively quick.
Two rotary tables is quite the outlay though 😅
@@wrongtown what? a pivot? and a few stops? or a tilting vice? or even some angle blocks? you only have to change angle once per revolution. the tricky part is knowing what angle that is. or, more, how far to move the cutter for a given change in angle, as thats generally easier to measure. trigonometry... yuk. maths.
Thanks for sharing, love the technical dive - more of that please!
“Smells like music” isn’t something Ralph Wiggum has said, but it sounds like it 😅
a proper Kmart boombox purchase. Had one similar yrs ago... looks over half of Melbourne to find it. On ya mate
Scary I have that ELO on Vinyl more than likely purchased at Brashs 🤣
"The year 1994, which is a bit weird because neither I nor RUclips exist." 💀
As a person from 1986 with 3 younger siblings, the last of which was born in '93. I've never felt more attacked by any single statement in my life.
The words I have left at this point are only suitable for a convo in full Aussie c words and f bombs in all
straya carnt? feckin oath!
Keith Rucker recently (i.e., within the last 2-4 months) showed how to make a good approximation of a bevel gear using regular involute gear cutters. The bevel gear that he made was for a low-speed application, so he was fine with how he did it. I don't recall whether he said what his references were for the technique, but if you find his video, I'm sure that you'll be able to make a similar bevel gear.
I’ve watched a few of his bevel gear videos, which are fantastic, and it looks like he is using the proper bevel gear cutters. Unless it’s a video that I managed to miss. I’ll hav wit have another look. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Keith said that he did not have the *proper* bevel gear cutter for his job, but some research gave him the method that he used by using his standard cutter. His email address is shown in his videos, so i recommend asking him for the references that he used -- maybe you'll be able to do the same for low-speed bevel gears.
I must be misremembering the video then
I love the off the cuff video style. I get to learn a random thing today haha
This face gear is gonna save me some trouble for sure, I have to figure a way to make them without a mill.
Keep going! You are a necessary watch ever since I found your channel through the mini milling mods video I stumbled on.
Regarding wood : MDF, HDF (Hardboard/Masonite), Plywood, Hardwood (Birch is my favorite) All make for really nice flat, stable, "dense" * high precision** replacement parts for poorly machined chinesium tools and machines, or Jigs/fixtures.
I can make tight fitting parts, and in a mostly stable temperature environment with already acclimated wood it stays tight. If you add metal reinforcements, fire or friction harden the hardwood, use CA glue, it can last.
* Density -- 25mm Birch is stronger and heavier than thin poorly cast AL or Fe
**High Precision -- Requires Careful Operator who measures and/or scribe 10 times, cuts 2-3 times
I used to fix that stuff in the 90's. Some of the mechanics were amazing, especially in the VCRs.
Brilliant work, dude! 😃
They really worked smoothly!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I think crown gears work best when made from plastic rather than metal, because plastic flexes a bit and forgives some errors in the shape of the teeth.
It may be a bit of a niche topic but I would really enjoy a video that runs through some of your favourite reference texts at some point. I have a mech eng degree, but it only covered a fraction of what you know about mechanisms, gear trains and materials.
I came across "crown and pinion" gears in Meccano. I had a reasonable collection and loved making changeable gear trains and the like.
The much more sophisticated helical crown and pinion is found in a typical rear axle differentials of road vehicles.
Old school is the best school!!
Even more amazing because they did not have Solidworks or any today-capable CAD :) BTW. Perfect gear for resin printing.
A good idea, especially if you are going to be using nylon or plastic gears is to simply copy existing gears. By copy, I don't IP, I mean literal copies like a xerox machine. Take a mold of it and then pour a plastic gear. You can also "repair" old cracked gears using this method. You simply repair the old gear with superglue and then take a mold of the repaired gear (the superglue will NEVER hold for use) and pour a new one. So long as the teeth are good, the new gear will be a perfect copy. This is really good for old one off plastic gears that have split (which you see a lot in consumer goods) because of age. They no longer work, but they still exist and so you can "repair" it with superglue and then make the copy.
This method has been used for decades for small run parts, prototypes and even one offs in prop departments (an original can be made in wax which is easy to carve, and then a mold taken of the finished piece). Randy Raine has a youtube channel with many examples. I've been able to save some plastic parts in expensive items using this method.
This is actually perfect for the nutation wobbling gearbox I made and that's the type of gear usually used, Like bevel gears, the drawings are a bit complicated
Can’t wait for the bevel gear episode.
No sleep till "face gear"
I spent a lot of high school jamming to my yard sale Sears and Roebuck boom box in the late 80's
I see the little wheels turning. neverending, on and on they go
This was great. I loved it. Great video, very interesting and helpful. For me as a beginner, it gave me ideas that of wondered about on making gears that I had not thought about.
Thank you for sharing.
Great video buddy, I find all of your videos useful! Keep up the great work.
Your channel is a massive inspiration to me !
Great video! I just came upon the same mechanism in the gear train on my budget DTI . Well done and I will look forward to the direction this is taking you, cheers!
This made me chuckle, great job!
I don't think I've ever seen a motor paired with something with no reduction in gears. Reduction smooths out the system and increases torque proportional to the reduction.
Please for all that is holy, get this man a portable band saw 🙏🏻
NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
come on, thats his signature. trademark. you cant take that away from him!
@@paradiselost9946 🤣
Even most digital tuners (pretty much ALL modern(and by modern, I mean the 70s and 80) radios are digital, even if they have an analog dial) use string around the tuning knob to turn the tuning condenser. The goes back to the very early 30s.
The earliest radio I have that is partially digital is from 1974. It uses an IF chip, but otherwise uses analog circuitry. The reason is digital is just a lot cheaper and simpler to build than a good analog circuit.
Remember when it comes to worm gears you can add additional thread leads to the worm gear and increase the speed effectively doubling the tooth count
You might have to make a gear cutter made out of the result of cutting the pinion gear with multiple teeth, then line up the middle tooth as if it was a single ordinary gearcutter and cut the face gear like you did before. It might require some rounding, for as the gears move together, but this should give the correct taper at at least one angle. For the "rounding" bit, you may have to do it similar to a gear hob where both the cutter and the gear blank are rotating as the blank is being cut
love the off the cuff stuff :)
I distinctly remember who i was dating and radios just like that in 1994.
E.L.O. - Unexpectedly good taste for such a young whippersnapper. 😉 As far as your statement "neither you nor I should exist" in 1994 is concerned, I'll have you know that I was busy with my university master thesis around that time, so I have written proof that I did, in fact, exist. 🤓
Was that plastic supposed to be Delrin (acetal?)
It looked more like nylon or UHMWPE or something, the way it got all scraggy with cutting the teeth.
I have plenty of white and black Delrin and it cuts beautiful and doesnt make that scruff like softer plastics do.
And the white Delrin is very white, the plastic you had looks more like natural colour for nylon, PE, HDPE, UHMWPE etc.
It was probably nylon. It was not hdpe, too hard, not PE, too hard, ultra high molecular weight stuff is expensive.
I’m going to have to take this up with the unnamed person who labeled this.
@@artisanmakes Try Dotmar Plastics (Australia), they will cut to order and mail it to you, I get Delrin rod and sheet from them all the time.
And yeah Nylon would match the colour of your piece and the scruffy cut edges. Delrin is a dream in comparison. 👍
It would've been really cool if you'd covered it with marker/dyechem so we could see, or at least get an idea, about the wear patterns! :)
Half the cordial thickness and move indexing head accordingly so u cut more off the back of the tooth to nothing on inner bevel I believe
We call it Acetal (aSeeTal) in Australia 🎉
awe he thinks we got 5 hours from d-cells in the 90s. more like 45 minutes lol
94' huh... Welp I existed, I was 14 lol holy shite I had that exact same CD/Tape Deck Stereo as a teen. 😮
Stop what you are doing, Artisan Makes has dropped a video!
Awesome vid as always. Keep it up!
Looks like something from a really old windmill,the ones with wooden gears.
i noticed that the unit was a Sony. if you are attempting to repair the cassette tape drive you may find that you couldn't have chosen a worse manufacturer. inside the play spindle there is a (for want of a better word) foam/paper disk that is incredibly fragile and is responsible for transferring rotation from the motor, gears, belts and pulleys into the tape compartment side of the play spindle. the foam/paper disk does this through friction . I'm guessing it was used to allow for slip in cases of the tape coming to its end, or if it jams, in order to not snap the tape. in reality it just wears thin and tears resulting in a cassette player where everything else will work but the play spindle will remain motionless.
An ELO cassette! I grew up on the LP of that album. Parents! My parents owned it. I just listened to it :P
That was almost the same as my reaction, haha! I was like "HEY! I HAD THAT EXACT ALBUM TOO!"
Cut a 45* bevel gear at a 47* angle and the depth and width of the tooth will vary with the length of the tooth…
Idk if thats a valid approach… but it’s definitely and idiots attempt at it
About the bevel gears, aren’t that just regular cutters that are being lowered into the material as your cut progresses? Can’t you make a gear train between the X and Z axis that lowers your cutting tool into the material as you progress?
I think the cutters are designed to account for the change/shrinkage in the size of the gear tooth as it gets towards the centre. That’s how I understand it
Have a look at slot car drives, crown and pinion vs sidewinder.
nice work
Good stuff
Makes me think of my mum's old kitchen whisk.
This type of face gear is also known as a Crown Gear or a Contrate Gear.
To reduce the uneven wear and contact from the arced motion of the teeth, and since it's sort of cup shaped, couldn't you do a second cutting pass? By that I mean cut the teeth like you have, then position the cutter slightly inward and just "plunge", so it cut's slightly outside of it's own centre line, and widening one side of the teeth slightly? Would that even help or would it just reduce the contact area and prevent binding?
I fixed hundreds of those back in the 80s and 90s.
As you do a little cellulose milling keep an eye out for a cheaper set of Forstner Bits to add to the collection because more tooling more powa. 😄
You may want to invest in a copy of Machinery's Handbook. You should be able to find a used copy at a decent price. ⭐🙂👍
Hi :)
I have a question (I'm no expert at all)
Could it be possible to give a tapper to the (soft steel) face gear by "grinding it" against a hardened-steel normal gear ?
I don't know if hardening gears is even a good idea, it's just an idea that popped in my head :)
thanks for the video as always ^^
Could you cut two opposing grooves in one go if you have an even number of theeths? Or odd number? Not sure which one...
this is circular rack and pinion or full sector rack
it would make sense to be cut on a shaper or the way you did it like a normal rack and pinion rack with a teeth shape similar ro a circular gear of the same size
It would be nice to have shaper on hand wouldn’t it. I think that’s what using the next cutter size up tries to help with - giving it some extra clearance to get around that the teeth aren’t tapered
@@artisanmakes if you think about it the teeth actually are tapered, only valeys are not so it can't be too thick or too thin otherwise it would skid on the middle or lock up on the outer diameter
you could even be stupid with the design and by only knowing the reduction and teeth number you want and machine around the teeth that actually work
Ha! A liquified rubber drive belt in a boom-box/cassette player - a VERY common fault - fortunately you can easily buy replacement belts or even make your own from stock rubber rod, carefully cutting to length with precisely squae ends, and joining the ends with super glue.
Unfortunately cassette tapes don't last forever. Particularly if the tape was made by BASF - their tapes chemically deteriorate and smell like urine.
Don't make face cut gears out of metal. If you do there will be rapid wear. They work well for light loads if plastic because the plastic is elastic and the teeth bend a little as they go in and out of mesh. be sure to use plastic compatible grease.
But 1994 was like 10 years ago, and you are older than 10. I'm confused.
Who bought music cassettes? I had out of the blue on LP and made a cassette copy on a high quality tape. Most of my LO’s were played once to transfer them
... i just realized cutting bevel gears woukd be as simple as mounting a dividing head on an old single point cutting metel shaper and turning the divinding head after adjusting for depth every full rotation.
... Huh. I found one use for a metel shaper. Making bevel gears.
not quite, but close.
picture how a cone rolls on a flat surface. its TWO rotations.
yes, you can cut them on a shaper, thats exactly what a gleasson bevel gear generator is doing, just with two cutters, working on opposing flanks at the same time. its a very fancy and specific use "shaper/planer/slotter". dont even have to grind a fancy "20 degree" tool, as thats achieved by rotating the work and offsetting the cutter.
as the work rotates around, the cutters also rotate on the other axis, exactly like a cone rolls.
everything converging to that central point of rotation.
or, you can keep the cutter "fixed" and rotate the work whilst tilting it up or down as appropriate, for each "shave". i believe that was how the "bilgram generator" worked... not sure, theres scant information on those ones!
once you have the maths figured out, a jig with the appropriate angle stops, and cutter depths written down, its almost faster to cut them this way.
you can also do them with a regular slot saw, which is my preferred method, as its always the correct profile, regardless of pitch or tooth count. involute cutters are always a compromise, and having to stock whole sets of different pitches for things that may only get used once in a blue moon... seem rather pointless.
Free Hobb!
Can't you add taper by just rotating the dividing head a bit?
i don't know if you have heard of the youtube channel --hydraulic hands-----they have an gear hobbing machine that could give you some idea's.hope this helps
Cheers 👍💪✌
I think it's called a crown gear?
Definitely not Acetal looking at those chips. More of a nylon or a UHMW plastic.👍
👍
Diesel batteries? Do they pass emissions standards?
Consult Techmoan as he has experience of old audio gear
God I feel old
What was the gear website you used? Cheers
It won't let me post a link. Just google "gear dimension calculator"
Face gear? Huh. I just always thought of them as circular racks.
It's called a crown gear
"Six D cell batteries lasting five hours..."
**Laughs in millenial** Good luck with that...
The radio will about 5 hours on d cells. The cd player drains it
Engineers black book lol
That's not Acetal,looks and cuts more like a nylon 6 or something similar....White Acetal is whiter..Oh and it's pronounced Aseetal.
No one cares how you pronounce it
You said you can't drive a worm gear backwards "very easily." I've been told it's physically impossible. Has anyone ever actually succeeded in this?
Low ratio worm drives (i.e. with a high helix angle on the worm) can be back driven, but efficiency tends to be pretty bad. Many electrically power assisted steering racks on modern cars use a worm drive that must be able to be back driven, so the steering still works when the rack isn't powered.
early trucks and cars used worm gears instead of hypoids. milk separators use worm gears that have to back drive.
whereas a worm for a winch generally wont backdrive so it can hold a load up with no need for ratchets or brakes.
its all about the helix angle.
a worm gear is just an extreme helical gear. if the helix is 45 degrees (for shafts at right angles) then theres no preferential direction. the inefficiency is due to the massive sliding friction. differential oil stinks as it has a high sulfur content as it has to resist the sliding loads (hypoids slide rather than roll... ALL gears slide to a degree... helicals and worms are the worst for it)
somewhere around 15-20 degrees they start to "lock". this also gets into multi start threading, as the tooth depth for certain helix angles goes deeper than the centerline of the "worm".
think of them as an inclined plane... almost EVERYTHING can be treated like an inclined plane...
a ballscrew with a steep pitch can be rather annoying when the nut back feeds and spills balls everywhere cus you didnt catch it in time... a four start lead screw on a 3d printer will also back feed... even two start ones will. so you rarely see anything but single starts on a 3d printers "z" axis. a tradeoff between resolution and speed. mine has two start threads and the table will drop if theres enough weight on it, when the steppers are turned off... rather annoying actually?
last! (so far)
Aw, I was really hoping you were going to machine a brand new variable capacitor instead of fixing the gears. I live fixing analogue electronics.
their is no conical hypoid bevel gear cutter, over trigonometry four/six cuts per tooth make a converging center tapper. but keep looking for the physically infeasible single cut tool that is mechanically implausible to existence without adding unwanted cut depth in certain arias of the gear that forces added mass to accommodate its related ignorance.
Talking of ignorance, have you ever considered learning to use basic capitalisation and punctuation?
dont cut stock by hand!
Why not?
It's his thing, let him keep his simple pleasures.