@@Brinkz1.8t20v This video has already been much more helpful for people than I expected it to be. Glad you found it useful and thanks for the comment!
Great video! Happy to see quality 1.8t content still coming out. I'm attaching my coolant pipe now and can't align all the bolt holes. Is there any kind of spacer on any of the bolts? The bolt just to the top right of the oil cooler isn't even close and this is the pipe that came off the car...
I'm glad people are still finding it useful! From what I remember there isn't a spacer of any kind, just the bolts into each location. I know the bolt in that location also has the bracket, and a few other holes around it for that electrical connection. Is it possible the pipe isn't seated correctly or you're trying to attach it to the wrong place?
@@StevesGarage pipe and or bracket is bent. Bryn gave me a heads up on that one. I have about another hour or two of tiny bends as it is still not sitting right where the pipe seals to the block.
I wish. Part no longer made. 06A121065AG is the park and I might try to make 06A121065AK work.... we'll see. At least my link ecu and g25-550 are simple. Thwarted by a coolant pipe.....lol. #carsarepain.
@@maxstinehour6662 It's always the simplest things right? I can't believe they stopped making it! I don't know anything about the newer 1.8t, but I wonder if it has a similar part 🤔 I guess worst case scenario you could always cut out the center section of the pipe and replace it with heater hose. Not the best, but might be needed if they don't make the part anymore.
Hi Steve, very helfull. Once you get those bolts out that are holding the hard pipe...do you just pull out the hard pipe to come out of the hole next to the thermostat, wiggle it or what and to install it back you just push it into the hole?
You should be able to pull it right out, though if you have a lot of corrosion like I did you might need a big screwdriver or pry bar to pop it loose. As far as installation goes it popped right into place without issue. If you're having trouble getting it in you could use some coolant to sort of lube up the o-ring.
@@ostroand3722 Yea... I don't put much stock in products like that. Especially something like the cooling system that is hot and under pressure. Time for a full replacement!
I'm pretty sure its 1J0122109AA and it's the hose and Y pipe. But double check the number fits your car specifically because I'm not sure if it's something that changes with engine model or transmission type.
Yup! There's a small o-ring on there that comes with the hardline if you order a new one. I don't know the part number for just the ring as I never looked into it. If that's what you're after, I'm sure you could buy just a replacement o-ring. It'll be much cheaper than a whole new hard line!
I’m having trouble getting the line to actually seat fully, I have the correct o ring but I do not have a bolt for the front hole, will that cause problems?
For something like this I'd be weary to not have all the hardware to hold it in place. The pipe slides into the block and as far as I can tell is only held in place with the bolts and sealed by the o-ring. I don't know the size of the bolt, but I'm sure it's something common you could pick up from a local hardware store. I'd assume it's the same as the others that hold it.
You shouldn't need to. I know I didn't have to. My pipe was stuck in there enough that I had to use a pry bar to pop it out. Could be the same case for yours.
Are you talking about the c-clip for the PCV hose? It can be a pain, but you have a make sure the PCV hose is properly seated, and then push it in with a pair of pliers or something.
Honestly, I've done worse jobs, mostly on my Volvo 😅. It's pretty involved to get in there, but it's mostly just removing a bunch of hoses and lines to access the hard pipe.
I don't have a lot of experience with the 2.0, but I believe it would be a similar process. The pipe is different, but the idea is the same as far as how it runs around the engine. It would also probably be easier on the 2.0 since there's not as much stuff in the way.
Did you buy the genuine vw OEM metal hard pipe that's $170 from urotuning? Or did you buy aftermarket mtc brand? Price difference is huge is why I'm asking! Thank you in advance!
@Lance Watanabe I went with the OEM hardpipe. I've had a bad experience with non-oem coolant hoses leaking right out of the box, so for this pipe I didn't want to take my chances. I couldn't find anyone with a review of sorts for either brand, but the OEM one lasted 20 years, and I'm not sure even actually failed. The price difference is huge, but being a part that's so buried in there I didn't want to take a chance.
@@lancewatanabe5825 Thank you, glad it helped! I think OEM is the way to go. I always think "do I want to do this job a 2nd time if it doesn't work right?"
I'm not sure what you would seal it with. If the block side is leaking it's most likely the o-ring that's gone bad and you could replace just the o-ring. I replaced the whole pipe since mine was quite crusty and it would have to come out to swap the o-ring anyway.
What was the trick in getting the hard pipe to come out of the hole? Thing is stuck in there Edit: never mind I’m a dingus, pulled the wrong bolt out in the front. Came out easy once I got that bolt out
Sorry I didn't reply soon enough! There are a couple bolts around the pipe and it was hard to get a camera in there and actually show what's going on. I'm glad you figured it out though!
Lifesaver man thanks so much for this video
Glad it helped! It's a weird part to get at, and there's not a lot of info out there.
Same I’m glad this vid exists cause I’ve tried searching everywhere for this one specific pipe, now I can get back to work thank u
@@Brinkz1.8t20v This video has already been much more helpful for people than I expected it to be. Glad you found it useful and thanks for the comment!
Awesome! Mine is leaking from de back side. Lifesaver video!
Sorry for the leak, but glad my video can help!
nice work, I have to do this now too...
Thanks! Definitely worth tackling as a preventative thing before it fails and you're stuck waiting for the part to arrive.
Great video! Happy to see quality 1.8t content still coming out. I'm attaching my coolant pipe now and can't align all the bolt holes. Is there any kind of spacer on any of the bolts? The bolt just to the top right of the oil cooler isn't even close and this is the pipe that came off the car...
I'm glad people are still finding it useful!
From what I remember there isn't a spacer of any kind, just the bolts into each location. I know the bolt in that location also has the bracket, and a few other holes around it for that electrical connection. Is it possible the pipe isn't seated correctly or you're trying to attach it to the wrong place?
@@StevesGarage pipe and or bracket is bent. Bryn gave me a heads up on that one. I have about another hour or two of tiny bends as it is still not sitting right where the pipe seals to the block.
@@maxstinehour6662 hmm I wonder if it's worth buying a new one? Guaranteed to fit then!
I wish. Part no longer made. 06A121065AG is the park and I might try to make 06A121065AK work.... we'll see. At least my link ecu and g25-550 are simple. Thwarted by a coolant pipe.....lol. #carsarepain.
@@maxstinehour6662 It's always the simplest things right? I can't believe they stopped making it! I don't know anything about the newer 1.8t, but I wonder if it has a similar part 🤔 I guess worst case scenario you could always cut out the center section of the pipe and replace it with heater hose. Not the best, but might be needed if they don't make the part anymore.
Hi Steve, very helfull. Once you get those bolts out that are holding the hard pipe...do you just pull out the hard pipe to come out of the hole next to the thermostat, wiggle it or what and to install it back you just push it into the hole?
You should be able to pull it right out, though if you have a lot of corrosion like I did you might need a big screwdriver or pry bar to pop it loose. As far as installation goes it popped right into place without issue. If you're having trouble getting it in you could use some coolant to sort of lube up the o-ring.
thanks for English subs!
I have a hole in this pipe, i have tried to fix it without replacement and buy glue, which is called "K2 metal repair", but it has screw up in 3 days😆
@@ostroand3722 Yea... I don't put much stock in products like that. Especially something like the cooling system that is hot and under pressure. Time for a full replacement!
Any chance you know of the part number for the coolant hose running from the hard pipe up to the little plastic y pipe? I can’t find it anywhere
I'm pretty sure its 1J0122109AA and it's the hose and Y pipe. But double check the number fits your car specifically because I'm not sure if it's something that changes with engine model or transmission type.
Is there any o ring that goes on the end of the hardline that goes into where the thermostat is kept
Yup! There's a small o-ring on there that comes with the hardline if you order a new one. I don't know the part number for just the ring as I never looked into it. If that's what you're after, I'm sure you could buy just a replacement o-ring. It'll be much cheaper than a whole new hard line!
What is the first bolt on the front of the block, I’m trying to do this and I’m so lost with the bolts
@@brianverrochio5359 Follow the pipe to right before it bends around the block, the bolt is on the underside of the pipe.
I’m having trouble getting the line to actually seat fully, I have the correct o ring but I do not have a bolt for the front hole, will that cause problems?
For something like this I'd be weary to not have all the hardware to hold it in place. The pipe slides into the block and as far as I can tell is only held in place with the bolts and sealed by the o-ring. I don't know the size of the bolt, but I'm sure it's something common you could pick up from a local hardware store. I'd assume it's the same as the others that hold it.
Just wondering I’m doing a full engine swap that hose that comes out the t junction next to the thermostat where does that connect to
It runs up to the Y junction that's next to the power steering fluid reservoir.
@@StevesGarage what does it connect to though it doesn’t connect to the coolant reservoir does it
@@polar7075 One split of the Y goes to the coolant ball, the other connects to a hard line that runs to the turbo.
Do you have to remove thermostat before removing the hard pipe mine is stuck all bolts are out hoses out and wires out the way
You shouldn't need to. I know I didn't have to. My pipe was stuck in there enough that I had to use a pry bar to pop it out. Could be the same case for yours.
How do you get that big clip on in front of the coolant hard pipe?
Are you talking about the c-clip for the PCV hose? It can be a pain, but you have a make sure the PCV hose is properly seated, and then push it in with a pair of pliers or something.
There is a connection with 4 thin lines cooling pipes in golf4 2,0. Please tel me about it?
I haven't worked on a 2.0, so I'm not sure. Sorry. Is it possible to find the part diagram online?
this looks like an absolute nightmare
Honestly, I've done worse jobs, mostly on my Volvo 😅. It's pretty involved to get in there, but it's mostly just removing a bunch of hoses and lines to access the hard pipe.
Recently bought a cheap 99 2.0, is this the same process as the 1.8t?
I don't have a lot of experience with the 2.0, but I believe it would be a similar process. The pipe is different, but the idea is the same as far as how it runs around the engine. It would also probably be easier on the 2.0 since there's not as much stuff in the way.
Did you buy the genuine vw OEM metal hard pipe that's $170 from urotuning? Or did you buy aftermarket mtc brand? Price difference is huge is why I'm asking! Thank you in advance!
@Lance Watanabe I went with the OEM hardpipe. I've had a bad experience with non-oem coolant hoses leaking right out of the box, so for this pipe I didn't want to take my chances. I couldn't find anyone with a review of sorts for either brand, but the OEM one lasted 20 years, and I'm not sure even actually failed.
The price difference is huge, but being a part that's so buried in there I didn't want to take a chance.
@@StevesGarage thanks for replying! I'll bite the bullet and go genuine OEM. Great job on the content! Much appreciated!
@@lancewatanabe5825 Thank you, glad it helped! I think OEM is the way to go. I always think "do I want to do this job a 2nd time if it doesn't work right?"
what code does the part have? it just cracked on me … please
06A121065AK - It's also listed in the description.
Can I just seal it ? I don’t necessarily have to replace it…
I'm not sure what you would seal it with. If the block side is leaking it's most likely the o-ring that's gone bad and you could replace just the o-ring. I replaced the whole pipe since mine was quite crusty and it would have to come out to swap the o-ring anyway.
@@StevesGarage if just replacing the o-ring okay?
The line looks really good no corrosion.
@@Terminator_888 I would think replacing the o-ring would be fine if the pipe isn't corroded and the new o-ring can seal correctly.
What was the trick in getting the hard pipe to come out of the hole? Thing is stuck in there
Edit: never mind I’m a dingus, pulled the wrong bolt out in the front. Came out easy once I got that bolt out
Sorry I didn't reply soon enough! There are a couple bolts around the pipe and it was hard to get a camera in there and actually show what's going on. I'm glad you figured it out though!