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You know, with the pingpong ball part, lethality isn't just a speed thing. If one catestrophically fails, you might still end up with sharper edges...and I've got a couple small scars from cuts when I cut some up for projects over the years...and that's without crazy/stupid stuff like the exploding one that one of my high school science teachers messed around with which are still much less scary than his exploding tennis ball of fire thing.
Not sure if you'll get this, but. In one of the Mythbusters episodes you tested whether people could tell the emotion of the person based on a cropped picture of the Buster's eyes. Post Covid do you think the scores would be higher? (higher because there were fewer visual clues because of the masks) Any scientific way to test this in hindsight?
Personally I like the two horizontal the offset bars for tape storage. You just stand the tape on the bars, but due to the spacing they can't roll. Very common solution for 3D printer filament storage.
This can work for similar sized rolls, but if the diameters of your rolls are too disparate then no spacing will work for all. Also thin rolls would need to be sandwiched to avoid tipping over.
Same. With stacking, I tend to run into issues with the little bit of adhesive on the edge sticking to another roll and sometimes either being a pain in the ass to get apart or they leave remnants on each other. Massive issue when dealing with things like flashing tape too, which also loves to stick to the shelf if stored sideways. I've taken up not just paint but chunks of the shelf itself - god I hate MDF.
@@LiqdPT It works for a pretty wide range. You'd probably only need two or maybe three sizes. Shouldn't be a problem to sandwich things but you could easily add dividers.
My tape and wire are stored very similar, but I also have a custom-made "dispenser" which accepts pretty much any size roll of tape or wire. Just peel it and load it, done. For those curious, it has two saw teeth for tapes (one up, one down), a pull out ruler tack to get repeated lengths, and a guillotine for wire/cable. The "axle" is actually just 5 cylinders acting as a pseudo diameter, and adjustable by twisting a knob on the other side. The cylinders act as bearings and spin freely. It holds up to 3" wide reel, and 9" diameter. Can hold more if it's mounted higher off the table. There is also a hot wire cutter for acrylic tapes etc, and a "brake" so you don't pull too much at once.
I built a tape storage solution that I love: it is essentially a v-shaped shelf that the tape can just sit on. All the tape can be in a horizontal row, but is extremely easy to grab and put away.
I don't have the space, but wouldn't rollers be better? The advantage of a spindle (free spinning so you can use it while it's there) with the freedom to remove just one from the center?
This is the way, if you have a lot of rolls. If you have like half a dozen types, pegboard is fine (because it doesn't matter if one roll of black duct tape is blocking a different roll of black duct tape).
Where I work, we use PVC pipes (4 inch, I think, maybe larger) cut in half, and just line up the rolls inside. Wider rolls get stuck in sideways. In some of the aisles, the halves of the PVC are hinged, so that you can close the top to protect the tape.
At ~2:50, I noted with glee how Adam's hands autonomously re-stack the four rolls of tape in descending order of outer diameter - SO OCD!! I love it. I'm the same, my blood-brother. ;)
As you look into turning for horological purposes, it's worth remembering that the lathe proper only really started getting applied to the field relatively recently (1840 or so) and that well into the 20th century, rather than a lathe, watchmakers used "the turns" which are simply two dead centers fixed in place, with the work being driven by hand using something very like the bow of a bow drill with one hand, and a handheld graver being used for the cutting. This works because the work is so small that the cutting forces are *miniscule*. It has the added benefits of being incredibly cheap compared to buying a small precision watchmaker's lathe, or even buying a Sherline and a set of watchmaker's collets. You can even build such a device using your own full size lathe, and save even more expense. The turns are so simple that it would really be an afternoon project. Add to all of this the fact that you aren't left with a considerable sunk cost if you decide that horology is something you don't engage with often enough to justify the outlay.
I got a Watchmakers lathe 3 decades ago, collets are harder to get so I modified it to use Sherline collets. A Sherline is probably the closest off the shelf solution without spending a fortune.
if you want to use a spindle, place the rolls vertically an top of the spindle, as though it was a shelf. You're going to want it further out from the wall than the center of your largest roll. Slanted shelf still better, but this works if you don't want to install a slanted shelf.
Excellent suggestion. Then you can pick up any roll with one hand and not have to move any other rolls. I think the fact that this would let you do it with just ONE hand is important because the OTHER hand may be already “occupied.”
Thanks Adam, I really appreciate the detailed response. You're absolutely correct that I first tried the spindle setup! I 3D printed some brackets for some dowel and integrated that into my workbench and I hated every second of it. I am totally going to setup a small shelf system now. Great idea.
I have to disagree on tape storage for some tapes. I've got a bunch of tape rolls where if you put them flat on a surface, they will end up sticking to the surface over time. For those I have some screws on the side of my electronics shelves where the tape can be supported by the spindle, not distort, and not get stuck much to the side. I also have a spindle for infrequently used tapes, and for wire at a workstation where I want to quickly be able to pull off wire from the reel. For that, it depends what you want to retrieve. If you want to retrieve reels of wire, spindles are terrible. If you want to pull out lengths of wire and cut them off, they're great.
My tape storage is a rack with 2 parallel strips of wood with space in between. You can store the tape vertically to save space and simp[ly grab the roll, use it & put it back. Each row has the space at a different distance to accommodate large and small diameter rolls. I have 17 different rolls on a rack only 12” wide. Adam’s method takes up too much room by laying them all down
I don't have enough to need it, but the storage I liked best was a sloped shelf with a right angle at the bottom. Like a checkmark turned sideways. The tape/spool rests in the V of it, and divider keeps them from falling over. You can basically just grab the one you want or spool them off while still on the shelf. I have also seen the spindle work, but it was a removable block with a cutting edge so it was basically a tape dispenser the size of a toolbox. I only really see that working if you need to quickly switch between different types of tape, though. For me, I have electric tape that stays with the electronics tub, colorful duct tape which is sitting out but belongs in the adhesive tub, and Scotch tape and packing tape which belong with packaging materials. I so rarely use them that it's better to know where they are by function for me.
Instead of buying a mini lathe since they are all junk. Get a full sized lathe designed for working on small parts. They have all the power, precision, and abilities you will need. They are not very expensive since most people don't have a use for a lathe that can only machine a 6"-8" long part. Before CNC machines took over watch making factories, those parts were made on full sized lathes designed to work only on small stock.
Wire goes on a shelf, unless you need to use it regularly. Spindle is perfect for when you're running a LOT of wire over a long distance or in a panel or something. But if you're using less than 6 feet of it, no spindle is needed.
Any tape with a clay, resin and oil base, can have its shelf life extended with refrigeration. Examples... Hockey, gaffer, duct and more. Wax paper between rolls is good for storage, and used for shipping of some products that aren't pre-shrink wrapped. Eventually you trip over someone that used to be in the tape industry.
I've adopted a tape shelf with a small stop across the front to store all my rolls vertically ( ||| | || || | |||| ). It works awesomely. I never have to touch any roll but the one I need. I even found 4 foot long wire shelves that mount to pegboard. Love 'em!
I store my tape standing on it's edge in v shaped shelves. Got a couple large ones and a small one. Never anything stacked on top so easy to grab just the roll I want. Helps if you have enough room to keep a space between them for fingers.
I read some time ago (1980s? 2000s?) that some military weapons company developed urban hand grenades which had compressed sawdust casing and compressed foam pallet projectiles. The explosive was low temp, and the pallets would expand very quickly once it went off, and the concussive force dropped off completely outside of maybe 3-5 feet from where it exploded. The idea is that while the foam pallets are still compressed, it would send shock into tissue, but any amount of light protection, like a thin piece of plywood, would be enough to slow the pallet down until they expanded, after which they couldn't do any damage. This meant that these grenades could be used indoors, and even be tossed at someone across the room, who would get hurt while not harming anyone on the other side of the room.
the *problem* -- and it is a problem-- is that with masking tape, THE EDGE IS THE TOOL. You need to keep that crisp edge if, well, you want to have a crisply masked edge. My solution is to keep the tape in a Ziploc bag, and that then hung on a pegboard hook. It's sub-par, but jeepers, I can't think of another way to really maintain the edge of the roll in a pristine state. Thoughts?
I would imagine that the speed required for a ping-pong ball to be lethal would be very close to the same speed at which the airstream alone would be lethal. Given the volume of air that would be expelled from an air cannon with the ball it seems like the air would likely do more damage overall. I wouldn't volunteer to stand in front of it either way though.
Adam would love to see my Dad's shops and all his PRISTINE organization. The metal shop (dad was a machinist) and the wood shop and the car shop! Each with very organized tools. Dad would want to make sure that tattoo was accurate though.
Only 1 caveat I can see. Storing masking tape on its side in dusty bodyshops will allow the edges of the roll to pick up fine dust, thus making a sharp tape line impossible to achieve. For duct tape, it probably wouldn't matter. The key for masking tape is to keep it away from dust.
Rather than flat, I like storing my rolls of tape side by side on edge in a tray with occasional dividers. That way nothing stacks and any roll can be grabbed without having to move anything else. Different sized rolls need different trays, but there aren't that many standard diameters of tape rolls.
Click Spring has a set of videos for setting up a small lathe type shop. I am sure you already follow him, but if you haven't seen the videos, you might get tips for equipment and such.
With the relatively large surface area for the mass of a ping-pong ball within earth's atmosphere, I doubt it could be guaranteed lethal at any speed that it can stay fully intact before hitting someone. If you were to get one into orbit, then it could get to lethal speeds and still be a sphere.
When fired in a vacuum, at 5% of the speed of light, Ping pong balls are lethal to unarmored personnel. Of course, no space faring race would build such a limited use weapon. Anti-personnel weapons are either energy weapons or railgun launched small metal balls.
I put tool box topper shelves in my shop drawers (the trays with the carry handle in the middle). I can open it to get a single tool, or pull out the whole thing and carry it all to a different location.
I've had tape stored on shelves for years and always thought there was something wrong with my thinking because wvery "ultimate tips" presenter was showing projects featuring multiple rolls on spindles. Thanks for the sanity check!
Thinking about what it would take to store tape on a big hoop that can be opened, like a keyring or a binder clip. Maybe 24" in diameter. Just spin the opening to the tape you want, pull open the hoop, and remove a single roll!
so, the thing about the ping-pong ball is that it's a function of mass/velocity, not the structural integrity of the object. a molten wax block can certainly do that, sand can do that. on impact it dumps kinetic energy into what it impacts, even if it deforms of breaks on impact, that kinetic energy is still imparted, minus the deformation energy. you can crush a ping-pong ball in your hand, it's not a lot of energy, same with a wet noodle. The thing that matters isn't the speed it's going when it leaves a barrel, it's the speed it's going on impact. with surface area to mass ratio of a ping-pong ball you lose a lot to wind resistance very quickly, which means in atmosphere your speed leaving the barrel might need to be expressed as a percentage of the speed of light, rather than a multiple of the speed of sound, just to still have the velocity on target. A bigger issue isn't the ball crumpling though, it's actually shock-heating at that point. it will probably burn up because of the air in front of it compressing.
tape and wire: store it vertically, on top of two round rods. Especially with wire, I can reel out and cut a length, or take the whole spindle. All first-order.
I personally like pegboard metal baskets for tape; they make rectangular baskets in different sizes that perfectly fit smaller through larger tape rolls. I personally buy a 2 pack at Home Depot that works perfectly for both electrical tape sized tapes and duck/duct tape sizes tapes; I have a half dozen around the shop and they really streamline tape storage.
I've always stored tape on pegboards, they're short enough that you don't have to put multiple types on the same peg. Works well if you don't have a dozen kinds of tape and so you don't need a custom build solution.
The drawers are where things go to die comment is priceless. I have a miscellaneous drawer in my big garage toolchest. I actually use it regularly. Among most things used is my pencil case and multi-meter, but I actually know what is in that drawer!
With weapons like Ping Pong balls you have to be careful of escalation. Years ago I worked in dispatch center where battles with crumbled paper wads took place. Which got replaced with Nerf balls. Then the Nerf balls were soaked in water. At the point that the wet Nerf balls started getting placed the the lunchroom freezer, the company enforced a mandatory armistice.
A question on the tape storing issue: Have you yet stored your tape in a v shaped board like your wire? In my mind this would support a one grap right pick storage option. you do not need to put stacked tapes back as with your 3 stack example. Just wondering.
The only time putting tape on a spindle is useful, it the dispenser. I find packing tape on the specialized dispenser is very handy. Bare handing it for a task done repeatedly is not as efficient. I'm now learning the sheet metal (duct) industry, and trying to come up with a dispenser design for the duct (metal) tape so I'm not dropping it and getting sawdust all over it. Also to get cleaner tearing.
i use 2 spindles for tape and wire. they sit at the top of my toolbox and the tape/ wire sit on top of them. this way i can just walk over and grab a roll.
I put mine over pieces of pvc pipe (like I’ve been playing quoits) and then if I need a small piece of tape I don’t even have to take it off the pipe to get some. (I always fold the end of the tape in a small flap too).
Old-school ping-pong balls were quite flammable, being a mixture of celluloid and various binders. At high enough speeds/sheer conditions, would auto-ignition of the ball be possible?
I would love to know what black paper tape you are using for labels around the shop. Now, here's a tip: For precision masking, protect your tape edge. Keep your tape in a bag, and don't lay it on a dusty surface where it will pick up fuzzies and have a ragged edge. You don't need to do this for all your tape, just your best masking. If you don't do this, you can lay the tape on a pane of glass and cut a fresh edge with a razor blade and ruler.
I use an empty 10-25-50-100-DVD/CD-spindle for save keeping of the rolls of tape that need to be clean. Those can fit up to 12 cm rolls. That fits most of my rolls.
Pingpong balls make great weird-smelling smoke bombs. Wrap them in a square of aluminum foil, scrunching up the sides of the foil to leave a kind of loose 'chimney' for the smoke to come out. Heat the ball through the foil with a cigarette lighter and it will ignite and produce a surprising volume of strange-smelling smoke. We used to drop them into toilet cubicles onto our friends as pranks, during school lunch-breaks :)
Adam, please let you magnum opus and legacy be a shop manual full of your tips and wisdom interspersed with stories and whitticisms. In gunsmithing we have the Bob Brownell gunsmith kinks series of books and the kuhn hausen shop manuals. Id love something like this with all the skills you've picked up over the years.
Yeah you don't need one spindle for storing tape. You need a spindle and a piece of serrated aluminum from a large roll of Saran Wrap put next to it. Then you pull all of the tapes onto the serrated edge and pull however much you need. 😊 I do like your storage method if the rolls of tape are leaving their storage before being used though.
I was reminded of What-If #1 by Randall Munroe of XKCD - What if you threw a baseball at 90% the speed of light (600-million MPH). Yes, it's lethal, but not because the ball would directly hit you, or anyone else in your town that you just vaporized. I think a ping-pong ball would have similar effects.
I was thinking, if Tested hasn't done a video on it already, it would be cool to talk about "perfectionism" and how makers deal with it. As in how makers often times try to go through many many versions of a project to make it absolutely perfect.
I think Adam mispoke, he said the shelves were 1.5" thick . . . I think he meant 3.5" . . . this would allow the 2" + 1" scenario to work, AND it is the height of a common 2x4 board, which is likely used to set the spacing between shelves.
The US army states that is only require 59 ft/lbs of energy to be lethal to a human. Given that a ping pong ball has an average mass of 2.7 grams the speed required to reach that much energy would only be 545 MPH. At a speed of 1100 MPH a ping pong ball would have 241 ft/lbs of energy.
I wonder if a spindle on a rolling cart would be useful though? That way you can roll the cart wherever you need it and pull tape straight from there. Has anyone tried something like this?
I’ve been a sound engineer for almost 35 years and I still haven’t found *The* solution for cable storage. My best so far is boxes or shelves. (There I just put them on each other.) Edit: Oh and the hardest things to store: Small odd things that you only have a couple of.
air cannon velocity is bottlenecked by using actual compressed air, backyard scientist was able to take a nerf dart supersonic by using compressed helium which was lighter than air
I did some math (which I'm not great at so correct me if I'm wrong) and it turns out that to break a femur, a ping pong ball would have to travel at around 6,000000 miles per hour. I used the femur because I figure if it could break a femur it would probably be able to kill you.
From your testing is there a approximate force upon the body that is considered lethal? I would assume you enter that divided by the mass of a ping pong ball to find the acceleration needed. I guess the variable would be if the structural integrity of the ball would hold up to the force of that acceleration.
It’s more the energy, rather than force. Research has shown that for 90% lethality for debris from accidental explosions, an energy of 150J for the head or 500J for the body is needed. So for a ping-pong ball weighing 2.7g, a velocity of 333 m/s would be needed for a head shot to be lethal - *less* than Mach 1; however, a ping-pong ball is pretty deformable, so it isn’t good at transferring its energy to the target. Cricket balls and baseballs are much heavier (and harder) so much lower velocities in the order of 42-45 m/s can approach this level of kinetic energy in normal play and deaths are not unknown.
I did discover you recently and I have nothing to do with hardware and building but I like to watch you with your nice and happy attitude, I was wondering if you know the channel Nerdforge? Thank you for nice Videos
I disagree: if you put your wire on spools in a rack and guide the individual wires to the front via a plate with holes for each wire (with rubber coating), you can easily access each wire and don't have to worry about putting it back.
I don't think ping pong balls can survive the speeds needed in atmosphere, but in space definitely. I'm pretty sure in space it can reach speeds high enough destroy ISS
No, definitely the best way to store tape is to balance it in random piles on top of the drill press pulley cover and swear a lot every time you knock them all on the floor !
Could you use a rail gun to accelerate the ping pong ball to Mach 7? If so, would it be cheating to coat the inside, or outside, of the ball with magnetically conductive paint?
I don't know about making a pingpong ball lethal on Earth. But in space with a sufficiently advanced propulsion system, you could accelerate it so that it has the kinetic energy of a cannon ball. 😮 Admittedly this would be a significant fraction of the speed of light. Current technology can't do this, but it should be possible someday. 😂
With thanks to Tested members shadowfax1007, Lee Marsh and Chase Davis for their questions and support! Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks, like asking Adam questions: ruclips.net/channel/UCiDJtJKMICpb9B1qf7qjEOAjoin
You know, with the pingpong ball part, lethality isn't just a speed thing. If one catestrophically fails, you might still end up with sharper edges...and I've got a couple small scars from cuts when I cut some up for projects over the years...and that's without crazy/stupid stuff like the exploding one that one of my high school science teachers messed around with which are still much less scary than his exploding tennis ball of fire thing.
The wet noodle question got me good! Especially since it was Jamie!
It is heartbreaking to see San Francisco turning into a third world country😢 I pray that you keep your head up and things get better.
Not sure if you'll get this, but. In one of the Mythbusters episodes you tested whether people could tell the emotion of the person based on a cropped picture of the Buster's eyes. Post Covid do you think the scores would be higher? (higher because there were fewer visual clues because of the masks) Any scientific way to test this in hindsight?
@@cg289202 It's looking like it can be hard to tell the emotion even with uncropped pictures. Check into the work of Lisa Feldman Barrett
I really appreciate that "Labelers" is hand written on the drawer liner.
He couldn't find the labeler.
Personally I like the two horizontal the offset bars for tape storage. You just stand the tape on the bars, but due to the spacing they can't roll. Very common solution for 3D printer filament storage.
This can work for similar sized rolls, but if the diameters of your rolls are too disparate then no spacing will work for all. Also thin rolls would need to be sandwiched to avoid tipping over.
Same. With stacking, I tend to run into issues with the little bit of adhesive on the edge sticking to another roll and sometimes either being a pain in the ass to get apart or they leave remnants on each other. Massive issue when dealing with things like flashing tape too, which also loves to stick to the shelf if stored sideways. I've taken up not just paint but chunks of the shelf itself - god I hate MDF.
I was going to comment this. I came up with it on my own but it's good to hear others using it. It's a fairly obvious but very useful idea.
@@LiqdPT It works for a pretty wide range. You'd probably only need two or maybe three sizes. Shouldn't be a problem to sandwich things but you could easily add dividers.
For me, this sounds like an amazing idea. Thanks!
My tape and wire are stored very similar, but I also have a custom-made "dispenser" which accepts pretty much any size roll of tape or wire. Just peel it and load it, done.
For those curious, it has two saw teeth for tapes (one up, one down), a pull out ruler tack to get repeated lengths, and a guillotine for wire/cable.
The "axle" is actually just 5 cylinders acting as a pseudo diameter, and adjustable by twisting a knob on the other side. The cylinders act as bearings and spin freely. It holds up to 3" wide reel, and 9" diameter. Can hold more if it's mounted higher off the table.
There is also a hot wire cutter for acrylic tapes etc, and a "brake" so you don't pull too much at once.
I built a tape storage solution that I love: it is essentially a v-shaped shelf that the tape can just sit on. All the tape can be in a horizontal row, but is extremely easy to grab and put away.
I have this as well. I think it is a fine solution. Adam have 100+ tape rolls i have 10 maximum.
I thought Adam made that? I think that's how he stores his larger wire sizes?
I don't have the space, but wouldn't rollers be better? The advantage of a spindle (free spinning so you can use it while it's there) with the freedom to remove just one from the center?
This is the way, if you have a lot of rolls. If you have like half a dozen types, pegboard is fine (because it doesn't matter if one roll of black duct tape is blocking a different roll of black duct tape).
Where I work, we use PVC pipes (4 inch, I think, maybe larger) cut in half, and just line up the rolls inside. Wider rolls get stuck in sideways. In some of the aisles, the halves of the PVC are hinged, so that you can close the top to protect the tape.
At ~2:50, I noted with glee how Adam's hands autonomously re-stack the four rolls of tape in descending order of outer diameter - SO OCD!! I love it. I'm the same, my blood-brother. ;)
Tell me I'm not the only one who appreciates and chuckles when Adam does a Jaimie impression.
As you look into turning for horological purposes, it's worth remembering that the lathe proper only really started getting applied to the field relatively recently (1840 or so) and that well into the 20th century, rather than a lathe, watchmakers used "the turns" which are simply two dead centers fixed in place, with the work being driven by hand using something very like the bow of a bow drill with one hand, and a handheld graver being used for the cutting.
This works because the work is so small that the cutting forces are *miniscule*.
It has the added benefits of being incredibly cheap compared to buying a small precision watchmaker's lathe, or even buying a Sherline and a set of watchmaker's collets. You can even build such a device using your own full size lathe, and save even more expense. The turns are so simple that it would really be an afternoon project.
Add to all of this the fact that you aren't left with a considerable sunk cost if you decide that horology is something you don't engage with often enough to justify the outlay.
I got a Watchmakers lathe 3 decades ago, collets are harder to get so I modified it to use Sherline collets. A Sherline is probably the closest off the shelf solution without spending a fortune.
you can also store your rolls of tape on a slanted rack with the tape standing vertically.
if you want to use a spindle, place the rolls vertically an top of the spindle, as though it was a shelf. You're going to want it further out from the wall than the center of your largest roll. Slanted shelf still better, but this works if you don't want to install a slanted shelf.
Excellent suggestion. Then you can pick up any roll with one hand and not have to move any other rolls. I think the fact that this would let you do it with just ONE hand is important because the OTHER hand may be already “occupied.”
@@LibertyMonk good idea
Thanks Adam, I really appreciate the detailed response. You're absolutely correct that I first tried the spindle setup! I 3D printed some brackets for some dowel and integrated that into my workbench and I hated every second of it.
I am totally going to setup a small shelf system now. Great idea.
I have to disagree on tape storage for some tapes. I've got a bunch of tape rolls where if you put them flat on a surface, they will end up sticking to the surface over time. For those I have some screws on the side of my electronics shelves where the tape can be supported by the spindle, not distort, and not get stuck much to the side.
I also have a spindle for infrequently used tapes, and for wire at a workstation where I want to quickly be able to pull off wire from the reel. For that, it depends what you want to retrieve. If you want to retrieve reels of wire, spindles are terrible. If you want to pull out lengths of wire and cut them off, they're great.
My tape storage is a rack with 2 parallel strips of wood with space in between. You can store the tape vertically to save space and simp[ly grab the roll, use it & put it back. Each row has the space at a different distance to accommodate large and small diameter rolls. I have 17 different rolls on a rack only 12” wide. Adam’s method takes up too much room by laying them all down
I don't have enough to need it, but the storage I liked best was a sloped shelf with a right angle at the bottom. Like a checkmark turned sideways. The tape/spool rests in the V of it, and divider keeps them from falling over. You can basically just grab the one you want or spool them off while still on the shelf.
I have also seen the spindle work, but it was a removable block with a cutting edge so it was basically a tape dispenser the size of a toolbox. I only really see that working if you need to quickly switch between different types of tape, though.
For me, I have electric tape that stays with the electronics tub, colorful duct tape which is sitting out but belongs in the adhesive tub, and Scotch tape and packing tape which belong with packaging materials. I so rarely use them that it's better to know where they are by function for me.
Instead of buying a mini lathe since they are all junk. Get a full sized lathe designed for working on small parts. They have all the power, precision, and abilities you will need. They are not very expensive since most people don't have a use for a lathe that can only machine a 6"-8" long part. Before CNC machines took over watch making factories, those parts were made on full sized lathes designed to work only on small stock.
It's not a mini lathe as is, these are special clock makers lathe and mini is real mini.
he already has a full size lathe....we're talking extra tiny here, not the little machine shop style ones.
Wire goes on a shelf, unless you need to use it regularly. Spindle is perfect for when you're running a LOT of wire over a long distance or in a panel or something. But if you're using less than 6 feet of it, no spindle is needed.
Any tape with a clay, resin and oil base, can have its shelf life extended with refrigeration. Examples... Hockey, gaffer, duct and more.
Wax paper between rolls is good for storage, and used for shipping of some products that aren't pre-shrink wrapped.
Eventually you trip over someone that used to be in the tape industry.
I did enjoy seeing that the special labellers draw just has labellers scribbled on the front in sharpie 3:31
I've adopted a tape shelf with a small stop across the front to store all my rolls vertically ( ||| | || || | |||| ). It works awesomely. I never have to touch any roll but the one I need. I even found 4 foot long wire shelves that mount to pegboard. Love 'em!
I store my tape standing on it's edge in v shaped shelves. Got a couple large ones and a small one. Never anything stacked on top so easy to grab just the roll I want. Helps if you have enough room to keep a space between them for fingers.
@2:50 Of course he stacks the rolls of tape in an ordered state. Of course he does.
My favorite "Supervisors Tape" = 2 faced tape.
Drawers of organized materials is really the best, especially when your shop mates put things back!!
I read some time ago (1980s? 2000s?) that some military weapons company developed urban hand grenades which had compressed sawdust casing and compressed foam pallet projectiles. The explosive was low temp, and the pallets would expand very quickly once it went off, and the concussive force dropped off completely outside of maybe 3-5 feet from where it exploded. The idea is that while the foam pallets are still compressed, it would send shock into tissue, but any amount of light protection, like a thin piece of plywood, would be enough to slow the pallet down until they expanded, after which they couldn't do any damage. This meant that these grenades could be used indoors, and even be tossed at someone across the room, who would get hurt while not harming anyone on the other side of the room.
2:50 And this is where I keep various lengths of wire
the *problem* -- and it is a problem-- is that with masking tape, THE EDGE IS THE TOOL. You need to keep that crisp edge if, well, you want to have a crisply masked edge. My solution is to keep the tape in a Ziploc bag, and that then hung on a pegboard hook. It's sub-par, but jeepers, I can't think of another way to really maintain the edge of the roll in a pristine state. Thoughts?
I would imagine that the speed required for a ping-pong ball to be lethal would be very close to the same speed at which the airstream alone would be lethal. Given the volume of air that would be expelled from an air cannon with the ball it seems like the air would likely do more damage overall. I wouldn't volunteer to stand in front of it either way though.
Really nice tape organizing and way to store. I currently hang mine on pegboard with pegboard hangers and works but do like your set up. 😊
Adam would love to see my Dad's shops and all his PRISTINE organization. The metal shop (dad was a machinist) and the wood shop and the car shop! Each with very organized tools. Dad would want to make sure that tattoo was accurate though.
The tattoo really needs a tolerance for accuracy.
@@fredygump5578 Yearly calibration.
i bought some medium size feed bins, that are made to hang on a fence for maybe goats, they hold 5 rolls each right in front of me
Only 1 caveat I can see. Storing masking tape on its side in dusty bodyshops will allow the edges of the roll to pick up fine dust, thus making a sharp tape line impossible to achieve. For duct tape, it probably wouldn't matter. The key for masking tape is to keep it away from dust.
I think that's why the shelves are so narrow
For duct tape, it is going to glue itself over time to whatever the edge is sitting on 🙂
This is why Frog Tape is amazing because it comes with the plastic case to keep it stored in.
Rather than flat, I like storing my rolls of tape side by side on edge in a tray with occasional dividers. That way nothing stacks and any roll can be grabbed without having to move anything else. Different sized rolls need different trays, but there aren't that many standard diameters of tape rolls.
Click Spring has a set of videos for setting up a small lathe type shop. I am sure you already follow him, but if you haven't seen the videos, you might get tips for equipment and such.
With the relatively large surface area for the mass of a ping-pong ball within earth's atmosphere, I doubt it could be guaranteed lethal at any speed that it can stay fully intact before hitting someone. If you were to get one into orbit, then it could get to lethal speeds and still be a sphere.
When fired in a vacuum, at 5% of the speed of light, Ping pong balls are lethal to unarmored personnel. Of course, no space faring race would build such a limited use weapon. Anti-personnel weapons are either energy weapons or railgun launched small metal balls.
I put tool box topper shelves in my shop drawers (the trays with the carry handle in the middle). I can open it to get a single tool, or pull out the whole thing and carry it all to a different location.
I like a v-shaped storage solution for round objects... think an angled bookshelf... works great!
I've had tape stored on shelves for years and always thought there was something wrong with my thinking because wvery "ultimate tips" presenter was showing projects featuring multiple rolls on spindles. Thanks for the sanity check!
Thinking about what it would take to store tape on a big hoop that can be opened, like a keyring or a binder clip. Maybe 24" in diameter. Just spin the opening to the tape you want, pull open the hoop, and remove a single roll!
so, the thing about the ping-pong ball is that it's a function of mass/velocity, not the structural integrity of the object. a molten wax block can certainly do that, sand can do that. on impact it dumps kinetic energy into what it impacts, even if it deforms of breaks on impact, that kinetic energy is still imparted, minus the deformation energy. you can crush a ping-pong ball in your hand, it's not a lot of energy, same with a wet noodle. The thing that matters isn't the speed it's going when it leaves a barrel, it's the speed it's going on impact. with surface area to mass ratio of a ping-pong ball you lose a lot to wind resistance very quickly, which means in atmosphere your speed leaving the barrel might need to be expressed as a percentage of the speed of light, rather than a multiple of the speed of sound, just to still have the velocity on target. A bigger issue isn't the ball crumpling though, it's actually shock-heating at that point. it will probably burn up because of the air in front of it compressing.
It's a tragedy that you didn't test the wet noodle! You should go back in time and fix that!
tape and wire: store it vertically, on top of two round rods. Especially with wire, I can reel out and cut a length, or take the whole spindle. All first-order.
I personally like pegboard metal baskets for tape; they make rectangular baskets in different sizes that perfectly fit smaller through larger tape rolls. I personally buy a 2 pack at Home Depot that works perfectly for both electrical tape sized tapes and duck/duct tape sizes tapes; I have a half dozen around the shop and they really streamline tape storage.
Thanks for short Q and A's.
"and where is your flow state? It's in the toilet" lol, great insight.......
I'd store my tape vertically on a slightly angled backward shelf to stop them from rolling forward and off. Easy to grab and all visible.
I've always stored tape on pegboards, they're short enough that you don't have to put multiple types on the same peg. Works well if you don't have a dozen kinds of tape and so you don't need a custom build solution.
i would use a V shelf for tape. they stand upright and you dont have to fish into the stack.
The drawers are where things go to die comment is priceless. I have a miscellaneous drawer in my big garage toolchest. I actually use it regularly. Among most things used is my pencil case and multi-meter, but I actually know what is in that drawer!
With weapons like Ping Pong balls you have to be careful of escalation. Years ago I worked in dispatch center where battles with crumbled paper wads took place. Which got replaced with Nerf balls. Then the Nerf balls were soaked in water. At the point that the wet Nerf balls started getting placed the the lunchroom freezer, the company enforced a mandatory armistice.
A question on the tape storing issue: Have you yet stored your tape in a v shaped board like your wire?
In my mind this would support a one grap right pick storage option. you do not need to put stacked tapes back as with your 3 stack example. Just wondering.
I use a vertical rack or a set of large 3" roll dispensers (they make one that's 6" wide).
The only time putting tape on a spindle is useful, it the dispenser.
I find packing tape on the specialized dispenser is very handy. Bare handing it for a task done repeatedly is not as efficient.
I'm now learning the sheet metal (duct) industry, and trying to come up with a dispenser design for the duct (metal) tape so I'm not dropping it and getting sawdust all over it. Also to get cleaner tearing.
Whats wrong with V-shaped shelves where the tape sits in the notch of the V? Too much vertical space taken up?
i use 2 spindles for tape and wire. they sit at the top of my toolbox and the tape/ wire sit on top of them. this way i can just walk over and grab a roll.
I put mine over pieces of pvc pipe (like I’ve been playing quoits) and then if I need a small piece of tape I don’t even have to take it off the pipe to get some. (I always fold the end of the tape in a small flap too).
Spindle is entirely fine for wire if you do electronics or small stuff, you don't need to move it anywhere for making.
Old-school ping-pong balls were quite flammable, being a mixture of celluloid and various binders.
At high enough speeds/sheer conditions, would auto-ignition of the ball be possible?
I would love to know what black paper tape you are using for labels around the shop. Now, here's a tip: For precision masking, protect your tape edge. Keep your tape in a bag, and don't lay it on a dusty surface where it will pick up fuzzies and have a ragged edge. You don't need to do this for all your tape, just your best masking. If you don't do this, you can lay the tape on a pane of glass and cut a fresh edge with a razor blade and ruler.
I use an empty 10-25-50-100-DVD/CD-spindle for save keeping of the rolls of tape that need to be clean. Those can fit up to 12 cm rolls. That fits most of my rolls.
Pingpong balls make great weird-smelling smoke bombs. Wrap them in a square of aluminum foil, scrunching up the sides of the foil to leave a kind of loose 'chimney' for the smoke to come out. Heat the ball through the foil with a cigarette lighter and it will ignite and produce a surprising volume of strange-smelling smoke. We used to drop them into toilet cubicles onto our friends as pranks, during school lunch-breaks :)
I learned this tape storage from my local Midwest theatre as well.
Adam, please let you magnum opus and legacy be a shop manual full of your tips and wisdom interspersed with stories and whitticisms. In gunsmithing we have the Bob Brownell gunsmith kinks series of books and the kuhn hausen shop manuals. Id love something like this with all the skills you've picked up over the years.
Yeah you don't need one spindle for storing tape. You need a spindle and a piece of serrated aluminum from a large roll of Saran Wrap put next to it. Then you pull all of the tapes onto the serrated edge and pull however much you need. 😊
I do like your storage method if the rolls of tape are leaving their storage before being used though.
“Drawers are places where things go to die!” 😂
A v block set up works too, all tape sitting in a row, v grove keeping them in place
That set of drawers behind Adam. Is the bottom one damaged, or does he just never push it all the way in?
I thread bungy elastic through the rolls and hang it on hooks👷 not great but it works for me!
For tape rolls, use a curtain/towel rod. Not going through, but as a base.
I was reminded of What-If #1 by Randall Munroe of XKCD - What if you threw a baseball at 90% the speed of light (600-million MPH). Yes, it's lethal, but not because the ball would directly hit you, or anyone else in your town that you just vaporized. I think a ping-pong ball would have similar effects.
I was thinking, if Tested hasn't done a video on it already, it would be cool to talk about "perfectionism" and how makers deal with it. As in how makers often times try to go through many many versions of a project to make it absolutely perfect.
I think we see the answer in many of Adam's videos. Plan it out, do it and see what happens. Adjust as required.
Whey not build a tape dispenser with a blade across, so it can be used one handed. We have similar in uk for single rolls of Sellotape. X
I think Adam mispoke, he said the shelves were 1.5" thick . . . I think he meant 3.5" . . . this would allow the 2" + 1" scenario to work, AND it is the height of a common 2x4 board, which is likely used to set the spacing between shelves.
The US army states that is only require 59 ft/lbs of energy to be lethal to a human. Given that a ping pong ball has an average mass of 2.7 grams the speed required to reach that much energy would only be 545 MPH. At a speed of 1100 MPH a ping pong ball would have 241 ft/lbs of energy.
I wonder if a spindle on a rolling cart would be useful though? That way you can roll the cart wherever you need it and pull tape straight from there. Has anyone tried something like this?
I’ve been a sound engineer for almost 35 years and I still haven’t found *The* solution for cable storage. My best so far is boxes or shelves. (There I just put them on each other.)
Edit:
Oh and the hardest things to store:
Small odd things that you only have a couple of.
What lathe does Chris from click spring use, isn't his just a basic?
Do you have trouble with the tape sticking to the shelf? My duct tape and VHB tape getsget stuck if I lay them flat.
Would the mono bike in Men Black 3 be a practical build you could do Adam? Would love to you try!
Nice video sir thanks
air cannon velocity is bottlenecked by using actual compressed air, backyard scientist was able to take a nerf dart supersonic by using compressed helium which was lighter than air
I did some math (which I'm not great at so correct me if I'm wrong) and it turns out that to break a femur, a ping pong ball would have to travel at around 6,000000 miles per hour. I used the femur because I figure if it could break a femur it would probably be able to kill you.
From your testing is there a approximate force upon the body that is considered lethal? I would assume you enter that divided by the mass of a ping pong ball to find the acceleration needed. I guess the variable would be if the structural integrity of the ball would hold up to the force of that acceleration.
It’s more the energy, rather than force. Research has shown that for 90% lethality for debris from accidental explosions, an energy of 150J for the head or 500J for the body is needed. So for a ping-pong ball weighing 2.7g, a velocity of 333 m/s would be needed for a head shot to be lethal - *less* than Mach 1; however, a ping-pong ball is pretty deformable, so it isn’t good at transferring its energy to the target.
Cricket balls and baseballs are much heavier (and harder) so much lower velocities in the order of 42-45 m/s can approach this level of kinetic energy in normal play and deaths are not unknown.
I want you to know that there is nothing stopping you from making a full scale Price Is Right wheel replica.
This is exactly how I store our tape at our little theatre :)
Tape gets stored in a shallow semicircle trough... one finger accessibility ... the tape gutter.
I thought for sure you were going to say short dowels for tape storage. Who knew shelving was the solution to tape pollution.
I did discover you recently and I have nothing to do with hardware and building but I like to watch you with your nice and happy attitude, I was wondering if you know the channel Nerdforge? Thank you for nice Videos
For watch making if you can watch 'In Tune with Time - Watchmaker, Masahiro Kikuno' He makes a watch based on old Japanese Time piece AMAZING
I disagree: if you put your wire on spools in a rack and guide the individual wires to the front via a plate with holes for each wire (with rubber coating), you can easily access each wire and don't have to worry about putting it back.
Haha. Watch lathe? Me too!! I feel a bit less eccentric. …a rail gun with a ping pong holder!
For a second, I thought this was a “Balls of Fury” reference when you say “lethal ping pong balls.” Regardless, keep up the good work!
Hi Adam! Keep it up!
I don't think ping pong balls can survive the speeds needed in atmosphere, but in space definitely. I'm pretty sure in space it can reach speeds high enough destroy ISS
I just wrap one roll around the other. Its a pain if you want the first roll, but such is life.
The only drawer you know at your friends' house is the utensil drawer for a fork. Drawers are tools too.
No, definitely the best way to store tape is to balance it in random piles on top of the drill press pulley cover and swear a lot every time you knock them all on the floor !
All my tape is on Black Grid wall and 6 inch pegs. Easy easy and wont stick together when stacked
Could you use a rail gun to accelerate the ping pong ball to Mach 7? If so, would it be cheating to coat the inside, or outside, of the ball with magnetically conductive paint?
I don't know about making a pingpong ball lethal on Earth. But in space with a sufficiently advanced propulsion system, you could accelerate it so that it has the kinetic energy of a cannon ball. 😮 Admittedly this would be a significant fraction of the speed of light. Current technology can't do this, but it should be possible someday. 😂
I'm really not sure who would think that storing tape on a rod would be a good idea.
That said, storing wire spools on a rod is the best option.
My tape holder is actually a skateboard holder. And each row is all the same tape.