Hi Sagebrush, Thanks so much. I'm a subscriber to your channel also. I see a number of shooters in your videos, not sure which one you are but it's all great ! ....Regards, Doc
I have one of those Ballard rifles in .46 rimfire. I have yet to make a video with it. At present, I have been shooting it with .44 magnum cases but haven't made the primer pocket smaller yet, so it leaks a lot when I shoot it with percussion caps. I have only shot it rimfire with a case for a .22 blank I bought from Dixie. Yeah, I should do some basic machining.
Do you also fill the primer pocket and then drill the pinhole with part of the same brass screw you used when you tapped it to make the rimfire cartridge? Also, I think these rifles had a half-cock position that has frequently been broken by people lowering the lever while cocked, right? Mine looks like it wants to go into a half-cock position when I close the lever, but then it rests on the percussion nipple.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Hello again, Thanks for the tip on using the 44 magnum cases, I will need that for another gun. I tried filling the primer pockets with a press in brass plug, but I preferred my second approach of using the threaded screw. As you can see it's all accomplished with simple tools. For the last two years Dixie only carried the 38 cal rim fires, I would buy the bigger sizes if I could. All of these old guns should have a half cock position but it is often damaged as you observed. The problem is , when fired the sear must zip past the half cock notch. Some of the more sophisticated guns have a "FLY" to block the half cock notch during firing. Or, perhaps someone put in a longer nipple ?........Thanks for watching......Doc
A really interesting video, I wonder if the ruptured primers are due to the blanks, being made of copper and never intended for the pressures developed here, the firing pin strike is heavy, but these .22" blanks are only made to sustain the pressure of the blank being fired, you would probably be better using the blank made for nail guns, they will hold up to much greater pressure. Many thanks for posting this excellent video and information. Chris B.
Hi Chris, The Dwight Chapin carbine has a ridiculously aggressive firing pin, so nail gun charges would be in order, as you suggest. In my experience, Copper blanks have been sufficiently strong to hold up to the 14,000 psi of my other firings of these old BP guns. Conversely, the aluminum caps on the market are only suited for starter pistols. Regards....Doc
Instead of filing that brass rod flush you should look into getting a rivet shaver. In aviation its use to mill countersunk rivet head flush with the skin of the aircraft. It has an adjustable depth stop to get it spot on. A cheaper alternative would be an adjustable countersink cage with a shaver bit instead of a countersink. I used to carry one of those in my travel tool bag for when I didnt have compressed air or didnt feel like lugging around a rivet shave. Brown Tools carries them and usually has about the best price on that kind of stuff.
Hello Sir and thank you for the alternative solution to case building. Rivet shavers certainly do a neat and clean job. As an inspiration and inducement to viewers who have a limited budget or resources, I built the cases using simple tools. Best Regards....Doc
Some of the early Ballards had a reversible firing pin that could be used for either rim fire or center fire although for different calibers. I was wondering if you looked into the possibility of it working in your Ballards if you could find one. I have 5 Ballards but they are all Marlin in centerfire.
Hi David, Thanks for commenting. Your Ballard collection sounds real interesting, and believe me, I really prefer center fires. My Ball manufactured Ballard and my Brown Ballard both have switchable hammer arrangements but they go between RF and percussion cap. I don't have any Ballards that switch between CF and RF. I prefer not to alter any antique arms unless I can revert them back to original after shooting. I do have a CF block for my Spencer which is easily swap-able, as an example. I've always looked for that feature in acquiring a Ballard, but alas haven't come across one yet. Best regards.....Doc
@@dr.durellshepard398 , Two of my Marlin Ballards, a No. 8 Union Hill and a No.10 Schuetzen Jr. are the earliest known existing serial numbers for those models according to John Dutcher’s book “Ballard The Great American Single Shot Rifle”. Both are in excellent original condition. The latter is actually pictured in his book.
@@davidgardner863 Good morning David, I looked up your No. 10 in Dutcher's book, she is a beauty, love the heavy barrel. I am blessed with having a gun in his book also, a very early brass frame from the first batch, p.19 before Marlin split the breech blocks, (example p.15 figure 2-6). It is self-evident that you are a serious collector. The No.7, 8, and 9's are all top shelf. The .32-40 & .38-55 were the chamberings to have back in the day. Best of luck on your collecting........Doc
@@dr.durellshepard398 , My No. 8 is a real gem. It has a special order nickel plated receiver and lever, very rare according to Dutcher, the Marlin upgraded sights, and what I’m sure is the original owner’s name and home town in Vermont engraved on the butt plate. I did a web search for this guy and sure enough I found him in another nearby town where he was born and he would have been about 22 years old when the gun was made. My No.9 is also in excellent original condition with upgraded sights. Both are in 38-55. My No.5 Pacific also ordered with an extra heavy barrel, also in excellent condition weighs in at a whopping 14 pounds. It has a dovetail cut on top of the receiver instead of the barrel but with a filler in it and graduated tang sight. A beaches front sight. Why this configuration is a mystery. The serial numbers are all matching so I know it’s original.
@@davidgardner863 What can I say, they are exceptional examples, very nice. I enjoyed the genealogy of the owner in Vermont, interesting to know who owned it and what the times were like when he had it configured for his specific use. A special thanks to Mr. Dutcher for helping us sort out the confusing Ballard history with all the makers and models. I know of what you speak of with your No.5 as I have a Stevens that weighs the same, very stable on the bench. I have a No.6 that has seen a lot of use but has exceptional fine engraving. .38-55, and sporting a Lyman #1 tang sight, anyone's guess who put that on it. Happy shooting David, ......Doc
Very fine demonstration of reloading remade vintage cases and making them work.
Hi Richard, It was a rewarding project, glad you enjoyed the presentation.
Thank you Dr. Shepard for sharing these fine old guns and reloading processes!
Hi Larry, Thanks for your comment.
I'm very glad I found this channel. It's one of the very few which specialises in odd and unique civil war guns. I hope you keep up the good work doc
Thanks so much !
Entertaining and informative. Thank you for putting this together. Excellent channel you're building here.
Hi Sagebrush, Thanks so much. I'm a subscriber to your channel also. I see a number of shooters in your videos, not sure which one you are but it's all great ! ....Regards, Doc
Beautifull and very instructive vidéos, Thanks very much !
Hello Helmut, Thanks for watching and the kind words. I enjoyed the restoration of your 1903 Peugeot also............ Doc
Thanks for the video I have never seen one of these guns. Very cool.
Hello David, Glad you could come along on the adventure, .....Doc
I have one of those Ballard rifles in .46 rimfire. I have yet to make a video with it. At present, I have been shooting it with .44 magnum cases but haven't made the primer pocket smaller yet, so it leaks a lot when I shoot it with percussion caps. I have only shot it rimfire with a case for a .22 blank I bought from Dixie. Yeah, I should do some basic machining.
Do you also fill the primer pocket and then drill the pinhole with part of the same brass screw you used when you tapped it to make the rimfire cartridge?
Also, I think these rifles had a half-cock position that has frequently been broken by people lowering the lever while cocked, right? Mine looks like it wants to go into a half-cock position when I close the lever, but then it rests on the percussion nipple.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Hello again, Thanks for the tip on using the 44 magnum cases, I will need that for another gun. I tried filling the primer pockets with a press in brass plug, but I preferred my second approach of using the threaded screw. As you can see it's all accomplished with simple tools. For the last two years Dixie only carried the 38 cal rim fires, I would buy the bigger sizes if I could.
All of these old guns should have a half cock position but it is often damaged as you observed. The problem is , when fired the sear must zip past the half cock notch. Some of the more sophisticated guns have a "FLY" to block the half cock notch during firing.
Or, perhaps someone put in a longer nipple ?........Thanks for watching......Doc
A really interesting video, I wonder if the ruptured primers are due to the blanks, being made of copper and never intended for the pressures developed here, the firing pin strike is heavy, but these .22" blanks are only made to sustain the pressure of the blank being fired, you would probably be better using the blank made for nail guns, they will hold up to much greater pressure. Many thanks for posting this excellent video and information. Chris B.
Hi Chris, The Dwight Chapin carbine has a ridiculously aggressive firing pin, so nail gun charges would be in order, as you suggest. In my experience, Copper blanks have been sufficiently strong to hold up to the 14,000 psi of my other firings of these old BP guns. Conversely, the aluminum caps on the market are only suited for starter pistols. Regards....Doc
nice video!
Thanks for watching and commenting......Doc
Instead of filing that brass rod flush you should look into getting a rivet shaver. In aviation its use to mill countersunk rivet head flush with the skin of the aircraft. It has an adjustable depth stop to get it spot on. A cheaper alternative would be an adjustable countersink cage with a shaver bit instead of a countersink. I used to carry one of those in my travel tool bag for when I didnt have compressed air or didnt feel like lugging around a rivet shave.
Brown Tools carries them and usually has about the best price on that kind of stuff.
Hello Sir and thank you for the alternative solution to case building. Rivet shavers certainly do a neat and clean job. As an inspiration and inducement to viewers who have a limited budget or resources, I built the cases using simple tools. Best Regards....Doc
Some of the early Ballards had a reversible firing pin that could be used for either rim fire or center fire although for different calibers. I was wondering if you looked into the possibility of it working in your Ballards if you could find one.
I have 5 Ballards but they are all Marlin in centerfire.
Hi David, Thanks for commenting. Your Ballard collection sounds real interesting, and believe me, I really prefer center fires. My Ball manufactured Ballard and my Brown Ballard both have switchable hammer arrangements but they go between RF and percussion cap. I don't have any Ballards that switch between CF and RF. I prefer not to alter any antique arms unless I can revert them back to original after shooting. I do have a CF block for my Spencer which is easily swap-able, as an example. I've always looked for that feature in acquiring a Ballard, but alas haven't come across one yet. Best regards.....Doc
@@dr.durellshepard398 , Two of my Marlin Ballards, a No. 8 Union Hill and a No.10 Schuetzen Jr. are the earliest known existing serial numbers for those models according to John Dutcher’s book “Ballard The Great American Single Shot Rifle”. Both are in excellent original condition. The latter is actually pictured in his book.
@@davidgardner863 Good morning David, I looked up your No. 10 in Dutcher's book, she is a beauty, love the heavy barrel. I am blessed with having a gun in his book also, a very early brass frame from the first batch, p.19 before Marlin split the breech blocks, (example p.15 figure 2-6). It is self-evident that you are a serious collector. The No.7, 8, and 9's are all top shelf. The .32-40 & .38-55 were the chamberings to have back in the day. Best of luck on your collecting........Doc
@@dr.durellshepard398 , My No. 8 is a real gem. It has a special order nickel plated receiver and lever, very rare according to Dutcher, the Marlin upgraded sights, and what I’m sure is the original owner’s name and home town in Vermont engraved on the butt plate. I did a web search for this guy and sure enough I found him in another nearby town where he was born and he would have been about 22 years old when the gun was made.
My No.9 is also in excellent original condition with upgraded sights. Both are in 38-55.
My No.5 Pacific also ordered with an extra heavy barrel, also in excellent condition weighs in at a whopping 14 pounds. It has a dovetail cut on top of the receiver instead of the barrel but with a filler in it and graduated tang sight. A beaches front sight. Why this configuration is a mystery. The serial numbers are all matching so I know it’s original.
@@davidgardner863 What can I say, they are exceptional examples, very nice. I enjoyed the genealogy of the owner in Vermont, interesting to know who owned it and what the times were like when he had it configured for his specific use. A special thanks to Mr. Dutcher for helping us sort out the confusing Ballard history with all the makers and models. I know of what you speak of with your No.5 as I have a Stevens that weighs the same, very stable on the bench. I have a No.6 that has seen a lot of use but has exceptional fine engraving. .38-55, and sporting a Lyman #1 tang sight, anyone's guess who put that on it. Happy shooting David, ......Doc
888uon , on
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dr please give your email.
please post yours here and I will contact you.
@@dr.durellshepard398 are these good for a dime, how fatal these guns are, give drawings of these. I will give my mail.
@@brissance Please give your email and I will send a drawing.