The pin needs to be smaller. Not bigger. To allow the saw blade to travel further and hog out more material. This is mentioned in the video supplied when purchasing the plans from The Woodfather. Nice work on the video, clear and very watchable.
After a lot of searching, I found The Woodfather - Mario's design from 8-9 years ago, and then your excellent video, which seems to be largely based on his plan. I'm definitely going to make this - I had planned on a similar style of router jig, but this looks easier to make and use.
So glad you gave credit to The Woodfather who did this jig some time ago. A clear video though - try a flat top saw blade - not sure if that was what you were using.
Nice job. Thanks for your honesty in showing what didn't work too well as well as what did. So many content creators only show take 18 and not the 17 failures that when we go to our own workshops and make a few mistakes it can be demoralising.
Nice video - I made one of these a couple of years ago and , given a couple of the questions below, I have two furthere suggestions. You can make different patterns, if you cut the sides (call them the rails) of your box with whatever pattern of ups/downs you chose, then cut the stiles (without a spacer on the front of the jig) by reversing the ups to down - and the downs to up and they will match perfectly! As for the pin.... I cut s slot just thinner than the saw blade and then hang - WAIT FOR IT - feeler gauges down through the slot so they hand about an inch down between the adjustable fingers. You can fine tune it by swapping combinations of feeler gauges till it's perfect. Aslo, if you change to a blade of different thickness you can change the pin width easily. Job done!
Nice project you have motivated me to make some plywood storage boxes to replace all the awful fabric covered cardboard ones the slacker in me purchased on Amazon.
Excellent! I'd suggest adding a steel plate to the spacer that contacts the template holding bolt. It will give more consistent tightening of the template blocks I think. I'd cut up a cover plate from a metal outlet box.
nice and simple, well done, to make life easier i would glue your template blocks together so to change size you just pull out the block and put the new size in
This is genius! I much prefer this to those 'ultimate jigs' that use 200 quid's worth of timber and clamps to do exactly the same thing. Keep the mistakes in please - it lets the rest of us know we're not on our own. Happy New Year.
This jig is great Dave. I don't think I could have built it better than you. I have learned a lot and i thank you for sharing it. The process of making it is very interesting and simple only because you have presented it that way. Thank you again. God bless you for your enthusiasm in wood working.
Nice jig is that mate,,,,Dave instead of pilot drilling then countersinking you can get them that do it all in one go you know so it saves time on swapping them over.
I watched a few videos on RUclips including woodfathers. If you search you will find them. Also if you read the description I mention the woodfather although others have pointed out he wasn't the first person to come up with this design. I can't say who came up with it first which is what I said in the video
I love your take on the #woodfatherjig, as well as the original jig itself. With that in mind, I was wondering… Assuming you have a way to ensure that you could make repeatable straight holes in exactly the same spot on the template pieces, could you put a threaded rod through them with a nut on one end to tighten and loosen the pieces?
I'm sure you could do that. I was thinking about fixing the templates together permanently somehow. That way you could just swap between the different size templates as needed. Thanks for watching & commenting
Thank you sir. I just was thinking, to put them on the rod, you'd need to make sure the bottom corners of the templates near the front panel can clear that panel without throwing off where the pin hits them.
I was about to say that looks mighty familiar ;) But you worked it out without needing the plans. Mario recently re-did a new version of this but yes, his original one is a very old video. It is certainly a good design folks can adapt to their own saws.
Absolutely awesome, It’s like a wooden enigma machine, Definitely going to give this a go. Can you do an update video when you have thrashed out the pin size?
That’s a great versatile jig Dave and you really shouldn’t doubt yourself. I made one for my basic router table based on Matt’s (Badger Workshop) design and added a stop to it like you’re going to do 👍. It’s good that you leave in your mistakes so we don’t repeat them, ‘cos then we can make new ones of our own 😂😂😂.
@@raytry69 success is one more attempt after the last failure. Edison once said I didn’t fail 1200 times, I found 1200 ways a lightbulb didn’t work before I found the one that did. All that to say, exactly right sir!
looks like a good simple jig, i dont know if it would work, but could you put a single layer of tape on one face of every other pin to allow for glue? maybe it would throw everything off..
Nice job Dave. I have just been looking at making one of these jigs myself and watching and listening to you making this one has give me the push I needed to get on with it and do it! Thank you. Take care and hopefully see more from you soon. 👍
Wrap a little tape around your pin to increase the diameter and spacing between the fingers. You can check it with a pair of calipers and see how many wraps you need to cut down on how many tries it takes you.. About 4 thou over the thickness of your stock is what should be about right for a good glue joint.
Wouldn't this jig also work to create uneven fingers? Try putting two vertical template pieces separated by one horizontal piece (repeating the pattern), then load two sides, cutting both ends. Reverse the template pattern, then cut both ends cutting the rest of the fingers. If that works, you might try a random pattern. Great jig already!
That is cool and such a useful jig. I have been toying with the idea if making a box jig some point, but yours definitely take it up a level from what I have in my head. Thanks for sharing
Hey! I like this jig. It's very straight forward and practical. I watch a lot of creators and have seen some fancy, complicated box joint jigs. Yours is right up my alley. Thus design would be easy to make a variety of different patters for variations. A thought occurred to me: the pin could be made to swivel up after each cut for ease of moving over to next notch(?). Not trying to redesign your jig. Thanks for sharing your work!
I noticed that your pin was flexing a bit. That's going to make a big difference on the size of each finger. I suggest a steel pin, like a finishing nale or upholstery staple. Cheers🥂
Thanks for this, nice little jig, Stop doubting yourself ,your doing well, earned a sub from me.....Question please, What table saw are you using in this video please ? Cheers
In the video I was using the dewalt 7491 which is the bigger version of the 745 not sure they make it anymore. Then I changed to the axminster craft tabkesaw but didn't like it so now have the lumberjack ts1800
You can make minor adjustments buy making the hardwood pin thinner or thicker. Once you have it to where the fingers are tight enough but not too tight that should give room for glue.
I would check the thickness of each individual piece of plywood from the template as i figured there can be inconsistencies in thickness in plywoods which can result in a tight or inaccurate fit in this case
That's an exceptional piece of work my bro.. U made this from ur head.. So u thought about it and made it.. I gotta give u huge credit mate bcos that takes a bit of thinking.. Keep up the great work pal.. Love the easy going nature of ur channel too man.. When I saw u making the 1st lotta cuts my thought was Oh shit that's really clever.. Honestly broI salute u for that Jig.. Hello from Dublin too btw..
Man some 1/4 in aluminum bar stock cut up to make the fingers and even the kurf pin if you ground it down to the width of blade. It would make sure moisture in the air never affects fit. You drill a hole through all the aluminum fingers for then to swivel up or down and then round the bottom corner off the finger that sets to the bottom and against the fence so it can rotate up and down. Then you could run a piece or 3/8 all thread through them to spin on so they are either stood up or laid down. Then you just tighten a knob like a draw bar to secure them all together and you never have to worry about losing the fingers they are precisely 1/4 inch increments you could make any joint you want. You could use plywood too or better yet even the HDPE plastic instead of aluminum to make the fingers. Sorry I can't help but try and improve everything I see. But this is a very awesome build. I have a box joint jig I use that I made, it uses a large 16 tpi all thread and half nut to move over every time and it makes great fingers but they are all one width and I use a dado. I love this and I see one in my very near future. Thank you for the upload.
How do you manage the sawdust ? I have built the jig and started testing it. The very first concern is that every two fingers, there is some amount of sawdust squeezed below the sliding piece of wood which prevents to do precise cuts. Any suggestion will be more than welcome. Frédéric (from France).
This is fantastic mate, awesome job. I've wanted to build some kind of box joint jig and this is definitely the one I'm going to go for. Out of interest, what blade are you using? Is it flat top? I can't seem to find one🤨
Hey, hoping you see this. I have that same tablesaw but the red Diablo blades are thinner than the stock riving knife that came with. We’re you able to find a thinner one? I have been looking for awhile. The stock knife is too thick that makes the cuts get stuck when the material tries to pass.
Mine is the 7491 & I think if I remember correctly the original dewalt blade had a 2.8 kerf. The blade I'm using is a Freud 40 tooth multipurpose blade with a 2.6 kerf & I've had no problems with material getting stuck.
😂 181.3 years.... is that all 😂. Your still going to get there before me 😂🤣. Nice jig Dave. Have a bit more faith in what you can do. You just proved you can do it so good job. Stay safe mate 😁👍
Hi grumpy I've just watched your video and I think you have done a fab job making your jig, in my opinion it doesn't make a scrap of difference who's original idea it was your interpretation works so happy days 👍👍👍👍👍👍 I've had to subscribe so I hope it reduces your 181.3 years lol here's an idea for yo why not add a metal plate between your locking screw and first block, this should prevent the screw denting n distorting the block n provide more overall even clamping pressure, just a thought 😉 oh n trust to your skills your better than you credit yourself for, at first I thought I was watching me in your video becoz I do the same thing lol very loudly 10/10 from me to you brother
It does indeed but you can use a sacrificial bit of wood to place behind the work pieces if you're worried about tearout or replace it once in a while or both
Instead of having to keep swapping the templates to the size needed all the time.Could you not have 1 long piece with pre cut out different size spaces so you could just swap the whole piece to the size required.If you put 1 threaded bolt from each side you could lock it in place then.
what about making a template by notching a single piece of wood, rather than stacking of so many blocks? other than that bit of criticism, a very nice build. your brain seems to work a lot like mine. because of that, I may have one of the largest piles of scrap lumber in the entire state...
You can get a CMT Orange tools 6mm kerf blade it's more efficient for less passes over blade make sure you look carefully at the dimensions [ groving 240.060.06M O150mm bore=30mm Z =12 FLAT MAX RMP 10000 ] .... Can be stacked carefully of course
' that the woodfather actually designed the first variation of this jig' LOL That's only a minor reversal of 'Fisher's Shop' 's jig from years before. And if you find other similar jigs, some of the videos reference articles from the 1980's and before. None of this stuff is new, these are extremely minor variations of old ideas.
For your next project make a kerf jig for making datto cuts for future jigs. Something else you can do if your kerf pin is slightly too small is add tape to it, that will add about .002-.004 inches (0.050-0.10mm) to the width of your cuts. If the pin was too loose you could simply sand it down a tad.
Yours is similar to the "Woodfather" design, but not exactly the same. I like yours better. The fact that there is wood out in front of your fence means you don't have to put anything down in front of it before you do a project like he does.
Hi Dave, I saw Inspire Woodcraft doing a very similar jig and he has a great way of accurately cutting the pin to exact blade width. This is his link ruclips.net/video/nsw5qlrdx2A/видео.html it saves trial and error. Another thing that might be altering your cut tolerance is how tight you are tightening the blocks at the back. Compressing too much will make the gaps smaller and tighter
Thanks for the link that's a great tip. I did think about how hard I'd clamped the templates & that it may have an effect. I still need to dial it in properly so will be trying it out
@@GrumpysWorkshop4 slightly bulky option is to glue them together at chosen spacing & hold them in place with a rail. Another size, glue another set. Just rely in slip fit. Then you can concentrate correct pin for looser/tighter joints
Wouldn't it also make a difference when clamping the stock to the front with the template that you don't make it too tight there? The template tightness may dictate how tight the joints will be.
The pin needs to be smaller. Not bigger. To allow the saw blade to travel further and hog out more material. This is mentioned in the video supplied when purchasing the plans from The Woodfather. Nice work on the video, clear and very watchable.
Nice one Grump. I'll watch it over 4 or 5 times and then give it a go I think. Many thanks, regards, Fred
Thanks mate appreciate it.
After a lot of searching, I found The Woodfather - Mario's design from 8-9 years ago, and then your excellent video, which seems to be largely based on his plan.
I'm definitely going to make this - I had planned on a similar style of router jig, but this looks easier to make and use.
So glad you gave credit to The Woodfather who did this jig some time ago. A clear video though - try a flat top saw blade - not sure if that was what you were using.
Very very good Grumpy, a very good indexing machine!! Bravo 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice job. Thanks for your honesty in showing what didn't work too well as well as what did. So many content creators only show take 18 and not the 17 failures that when we go to our own workshops and make a few mistakes it can be demoralising.
Well i don't claim to be an expert so showing mistakes doesn't worry me. We all make them it's how we learn.
Failures are the best teachers.
Nice video - I made one of these a couple of years ago and , given a couple of the questions below, I have two furthere suggestions. You can make different patterns, if you cut the sides (call them the rails) of your box with whatever pattern of ups/downs you chose, then cut the stiles (without a spacer on the front of the jig) by reversing the ups to down - and the downs to up and they will match perfectly! As for the pin.... I cut s slot just thinner than the saw blade and then hang - WAIT FOR IT - feeler gauges down through the slot so they hand about an inch down between the adjustable fingers. You can fine tune it by swapping combinations of feeler gauges till it's perfect. Aslo, if you change to a blade of different thickness you can change the pin width easily. Job done!
That's a great idea thanks for watching & taking the time to comment I appreciate that
Hi, came across this after looking at the woodfather version. Cracking job. I’ll definitely be trying your version.
What an incredible idea. I’d be tempted to make the template out of aluminum so it isn’t affected by humidity.
Very ingenious. I subscribed.
Nice project you have motivated me to make some plywood storage boxes to replace all the awful fabric covered cardboard ones the slacker in me purchased on Amazon.
Thanks mate
Nice jig. Love it. Great idea.
I wonder if I wouldn't adapt it to a router table, of course using a bit that's not too big, say 6 mm in diameter.
I'm sure you could do it on a router table
well done young Man keep golng
Top work Dave, I was looking for a way to make box joints without buying a dado stack. Now I just gotta buy the table saw
Ha ha thanks mate🤣🤣
Great build.Like the way you show your mistakes.It surely helps a lot.You have a wonderful 2024.
I'll tell you what Dave, that's a superb jig design and build. I enjoyed watching, the end result is brilliant. Nice work. Tony
Thanks mate appreciate that. It's not my design but I like it a lot
Excellent! I'd suggest adding a steel plate to the spacer that contacts the template holding bolt. It will give more consistent tightening of the template blocks I think. I'd cut up a cover plate from a metal outlet box.
nice and simple, well done, to make life easier i would glue your template blocks together so to change size you just pull out the block and put the new size in
Yes i did think about doing that
Nice jig Dave, you must have the patience of a saint. Well done mate.
Thanks mate appreciate it
Excellent and a job well done. I shall attempt to build one in the next few weeks 👍👍👍👌👌👌
Thankyou appreciate it
Very nice jig. Some day we just have to try something like this. (when we get better at woodworking.) 😀
You're already good at woodworking. If I can build it so can you.
Nice trick with the superglue plus wood glue. Like the way you work.
Thanks appreciate your comments
Great jig Dave. I’ve been watching probably similar videos on various jigs that I want to make when im back on my feet after my recovery.
Thanks mate, yeah I need to make a better crosscut sled, mitre sled
That's really clever Dave. I wasn't sure how you were going to solve the problem of cutting out consistent fingers. Nice job!
It's a clever design but it's not my design. It is a brilliant idea
This is genius! I much prefer this to those 'ultimate jigs' that use 200 quid's worth of timber and clamps to do exactly the same thing. Keep the mistakes in please - it lets the rest of us know we're not on our own. Happy New Year.
Thanks mate appreciate that. Like I said it's not my design but this suits my needs
Realy like your Video Dave. Keep up the good work
Thankyou
Absolutely brilliant! Way to go. I'm going to make one for myself this weekend. You also got another sub here. Thanks for sharing your idea!
Cheers
Thanks for watching & commenting I appreciate that
That is a piece of genius.
Not my idea though but it's a great design
Blinding job young man! 😎 That's nothing short of genius and presented in a very easy to understand format. Thanks indeed matey. 👍
Thanks mate appreciate that
Well done Mate works a treat you never know if you can do it until you give it ago. 👍🔨
That's so true, either way I would still post the video as it still might help others. Thanks for watching
This jig is great Dave. I don't think I could have built it better than you. I have learned a lot and i thank you for sharing it. The process of making it is very interesting and simple only because you have presented it that way. Thank you again. God bless you for your enthusiasm in wood working.
Thanks mate for the kind comment I appreciate that
@@GrumpysWorkshop4 My p,leasure
Excellent jig. Your build process was really clear. I might even be able to make this myself!
Thanks for sharing your ideas I will give it a try.😊
Nice jig is that mate,,,,Dave instead of pilot drilling then countersinking you can get them that do it all in one go you know so it saves time on swapping them over.
Thanks mate, yeah I have a set but they're not great
Well done another excellent video and you shouldn’t doubt yourself you have great skill set when it comes to making things off cuff like you do 👍
Thanks mate appreciate that.
the only youtube I have ever seen to show this jig is called "Woodfather" so please mention it
I watched a few videos on RUclips including woodfathers. If you search you will find them. Also if you read the description I mention the woodfather although others have pointed out he wasn't the first person to come up with this design. I can't say who came up with it first which is what I said in the video
I love your take on the #woodfatherjig, as well as the original jig itself. With that in mind, I was wondering…
Assuming you have a way to ensure that you could make repeatable straight holes in exactly the same spot on the template pieces, could you put a threaded rod through them with a nut on one end to tighten and loosen the pieces?
I'm sure you could do that. I was thinking about fixing the templates together permanently somehow. That way you could just swap between the different size templates as needed.
Thanks for watching & commenting
Thank you sir.
I just was thinking, to put them on the rod, you'd need to make sure the bottom corners of the templates near the front panel can clear that panel without throwing off where the pin hits them.
Good for you mate.good job.well done.👍
Thanks mate appreciate it
I was about to say that looks mighty familiar ;) But you worked it out without needing the plans. Mario recently re-did a new version of this but yes, his original one is a very old video. It is certainly a good design folks can adapt to their own saws.
Yeah I thought this one would be easier to build. It's a great jig
Great video. Loved the stats at the end 😆
Thanks mate appreciate that
Absolutely awesome, It’s like a wooden enigma machine, Definitely going to give this a go. Can you do an update video when you have thrashed out the pin size?
Thanks mate, I'm sure you will see it in use in upcoming videos
Nice one mate looks like a well made jig that will come in handy
Thanks mate
Love it, great video with clear instructions well done Dave 🏴
Nice video Dave, great jig. Never doubt yourself, we've all had to learn. Happy New Year
Thanks mate appreciate that
That’s a great versatile jig Dave and you really shouldn’t doubt yourself. I made one for my basic router table based on Matt’s (Badger Workshop) design and added a stop to it like you’re going to do 👍.
It’s good that you leave in your mistakes so we don’t repeat them, ‘cos then we can make new ones of our own 😂😂😂.
Mistakes are a big part of my channel 🤣🤣. Thanks for watching
@@GrumpysWorkshop4 Failure is not the opposite of success. It's part of it.
@@GrumpysWorkshop4 q
@@raytry69 success is one more attempt after the last failure. Edison once said I didn’t fail 1200 times, I found 1200 ways a lightbulb didn’t work before I found the one that did. All that to say, exactly right sir!
looks like a good simple jig, i dont know if it would work, but could you put a single layer of tape on one face of every other pin to allow for glue? maybe it would throw everything off..
That's a good point, I'm not sure what difference that would make. Gonna fine tune it & practice
That's how I work I normally change and improvise halfway through last year I made a lovely dovetail pair of underpants
Nice job Dave. I have just been looking at making one of these jigs myself and watching and listening to you making this one has give me the push I needed to get on with it and do it! Thank you. Take care and hopefully see more from you soon. 👍
Thanks mate appreciate it
Top man, top jig!!!!
Thanks
Wrap a little tape around your pin to increase the diameter and spacing between the fingers. You can check it with a pair of calipers and see how many wraps you need to cut down on how many tries it takes you.. About 4 thou over the thickness of your stock is what should be about right for a good glue joint.
Thanks for the tip
Just thought about it, your pattern blocks on the back just add a bit of painters tape toe eash to allow for the blad to move further
Nice job Dave I love this one 👌🏻
Thanks mate
Thanks for the just what I was looking for
Great video Dave, a very useful jig and your video makes it easier to understand how to make one I might try making one in the future 👍👍
It's a great jig, shame it's not my design but I like it
Wouldn't this jig also work to create uneven fingers? Try putting two vertical template pieces separated by one horizontal piece (repeating the pattern), then load two sides, cutting both ends. Reverse the template pattern, then cut both ends cutting the rest of the fingers. If that works, you might try a random pattern.
Great jig already!
Thanks mate appreciate that.
Nice one mate !!
Thanks mate appreciate that
That is cool and such a useful jig. I have been toying with the idea if making a box jig some point, but yours definitely take it up a level from what I have in my head. Thanks for sharing
Thanks mate, it's a great jig
Brilliant! Well done mate, something for me to attempt when I finally get a decent table saw 👍
Thanks mate, yeah it's a great design
Well! You have 1 more sub, partner! Keep up the good work
Don't doubt yourself dave, grate jig mate, will be making one
Thanks mate appreciate that
Hey! I like this jig. It's very straight forward and practical. I watch a lot of creators and have seen some fancy, complicated box joint jigs. Yours is right up my alley. Thus design would be easy to make a variety of different patters for variations.
A thought occurred to me: the pin could be made to swivel up after each cut for ease of moving over to next notch(?). Not trying to redesign your jig.
Thanks for sharing your work!
Thanks for your kind comments & thanks for watching I appreciate it
to stop your runners expanding when screwing them on make sure you drill clearance holes in the runners.
I did do that but maybe didn't drill the right size. Got more jigs to make so will try on those
I noticed that your pin was flexing a bit. That's going to make a big difference on the size of each finger. I suggest a steel pin, like a finishing nale or upholstery staple. Cheers🥂
Should the pin be as wide as the kerf of your blade?
Yes that's the idea
Thanks for this, nice little jig, Stop doubting yourself ,your doing well, earned a sub from me.....Question please, What table saw are you using in this video please ? Cheers
In the video I was using the dewalt 7491 which is the bigger version of the 745 not sure they make it anymore. Then I changed to the axminster craft tabkesaw but didn't like it so now have the lumberjack ts1800
Thanks a lot ,thats great info. Cheers@@GrumpysWorkshop4
can you tell me what you did to make the jig cut the fingers so that they slid in to allow for the glue thanks keith
You can make minor adjustments buy making the hardwood pin thinner or thicker. Once you have it to where the fingers are tight enough but not too tight that should give room for glue.
I would check the thickness of each individual piece of plywood from the template as i figured there can be inconsistencies in thickness in plywoods which can result in a tight or inaccurate fit in this case
Great job!
Great idea, good video as always, never knew that you could do that on a table saw definitely going to try it out too happy new year to you,& family 🎉
Thanks mate appreciate it
Good idea! Nice
That's an exceptional piece of work my bro.. U made this from ur head.. So u thought about it and made it.. I gotta give u huge credit mate bcos that takes a bit of thinking.. Keep up the great work pal..
Love the easy going nature of ur channel too man.. When I saw u making the 1st lotta cuts my thought was Oh shit that's really clever.. Honestly broI salute u for that Jig.. Hello from Dublin too btw..
Thanks mate appreciate that
A thicker pin would make the slots wider?
Nice job 👍🏻
Do you have rough dimensions of each of the pieces?
your a asda price shopper :) :) smart man
Ha ha how'd you know 🤣
Man some 1/4 in aluminum bar stock cut up to make the fingers and even the kurf pin if you ground it down to the width of blade. It would make sure moisture in the air never affects fit. You drill a hole through all the aluminum fingers for then to swivel up or down and then round the bottom corner off the finger that sets to the bottom and against the fence so it can rotate up and down. Then you could run a piece or 3/8 all thread through them to spin on so they are either stood up or laid down. Then you just tighten a knob like a draw bar to secure them all together and you never have to worry about losing the fingers they are precisely 1/4 inch increments you could make any joint you want. You could use plywood too or better yet even the HDPE plastic instead of aluminum to make the fingers.
Sorry I can't help but try and improve everything I see. But this is a very awesome build. I have a box joint jig I use that I made, it uses a large 16 tpi all thread and half nut to move over every time and it makes great fingers but they are all one width and I use a dado. I love this and I see one in my very near future. Thank you for the upload.
Buentrabajo ...Gracias. Me he suscrito a tu canal.
How do you manage the sawdust ? I have built the jig and started testing it. The very first concern is that every two fingers, there is some amount of sawdust squeezed below the sliding piece of wood which prevents to do precise cuts. Any suggestion will be more than welcome.
Frédéric (from France).
I know my elevator doesn’t go to the top floor but which pin are you adjusting??
1/19/24
This is fantastic mate, awesome job. I've wanted to build some kind of box joint jig and this is definitely the one I'm going to go for.
Out of interest, what blade are you using? Is it flat top? I can't seem to find one🤨
I got a FTG blade for my Dewalt table saw from saxton blades.
@@idlersdream826 really 🤨 I've used them before but never spotted an ftg blade. Will have another look. Thanks
Mine is a Freud 40 tooth blade
Hey, hoping you see this. I have that same tablesaw but the red Diablo blades are thinner than the stock riving knife that came with. We’re you able to find a thinner one? I have been looking for awhile. The stock knife is too thick that makes the cuts get stuck when the material tries to pass.
Mine is the 7491 & I think if I remember correctly the original dewalt blade had a 2.8 kerf. The blade I'm using is a Freud 40 tooth multipurpose blade with a 2.6 kerf & I've had no problems with material getting stuck.
Really wonder thnks for your vedio.
Great work! I've made this jig too (and made a video haha) it's the absolute tits and versatile. Cheers
Thanks mate yeah it's a great idea
😂 181.3 years.... is that all 😂. Your still going to get there before me 😂🤣. Nice jig Dave. Have a bit more faith in what you can do. You just proved you can do it so good job. Stay safe mate 😁👍
181.3yrs is doable right🤪🤪
@@GrumpysWorkshop4 😂 Easy 🤣😁👍.
Hi grumpy I've just watched your video and I think you have done a fab job making your jig, in my opinion it doesn't make a scrap of difference who's original idea it was your interpretation works so happy days 👍👍👍👍👍👍 I've had to subscribe so I hope it reduces your 181.3 years lol here's an idea for yo why not add a metal plate between your locking screw and first block, this should prevent the screw denting n distorting the block n provide more overall even clamping pressure, just a thought 😉 oh n trust to your skills your better than you credit yourself for, at first I thought I was watching me in your video becoz I do the same thing lol very loudly 10/10 from me to you brother
It occurs to me that the support slide is getting cut too isnt it
It does indeed but you can use a sacrificial bit of wood to place behind the work pieces if you're worried about tearout or replace it once in a while or both
If you want the joint to be looser you need the diameter/width of the pin to be slightly smaller than the kerf of the blade.
Instead of having to keep swapping the templates to the size needed all the time.Could you not have 1 long piece with pre cut out different size spaces so you could just swap the whole piece to the size required.If you put 1 threaded bolt from each side you could lock it in place then.
I have thought about that, it would definitely save time & make things easier.
Nice job! Round the top of the runner and wax it with paraffin.
Toward the end, wouldn't the pin be too large not to small? Smaller pin allows more travel...would need a smaller not larger I think.
what about making a template by notching a single piece of wood, rather than stacking of so many blocks? other than that bit of criticism, a very nice build. your brain seems to work a lot like mine. because of that, I may have one of the largest piles of scrap lumber in the entire state...
You can get a CMT Orange tools 6mm kerf blade it's more efficient for less passes over blade make sure you look carefully at the dimensions [ groving 240.060.06M O150mm bore=30mm Z =12 FLAT MAX RMP 10000 ] .... Can be stacked carefully of course
Shout out to the Woodfather…
Olá boa noite, faça um pra mim lhe agradeço adorei muito bom maravilha 😻
Thankyou I appreciate that
Shame you ended the video without showing the actual, correct pin size for correct width. I think that is the piece that'd make this a stand out jig.
@johncobjinglehi the pin is the width of the blade being used. Hope this helps.
' that the woodfather actually designed the first variation of this jig' LOL That's only a minor reversal of 'Fisher's Shop' 's jig from years before. And if you find other similar jigs, some of the videos reference articles from the 1980's and before.
None of this stuff is new, these are extremely minor variations of old ideas.
For your next project make a kerf jig for making datto cuts for future jigs. Something else you can do if your kerf pin is slightly too small is add tape to it, that will add about .002-.004 inches (0.050-0.10mm) to the width of your cuts. If the pin was too loose you could simply sand it down a tad.
Yours is similar to the "Woodfather" design, but not exactly the same. I like yours better. The fact that there is wood out in front of your fence means you don't have to put anything down in front of it before you do a project like he does.
a lot of work, just go buy a dado stack for $100, the time to don't waste with this method you will pay you back many times.
Most saws here in the UK don't take dado stacks that's why I made the jig. You can get them but they are very expensive.
Hi Dave, I saw Inspire Woodcraft doing a very similar jig and he has a great way of accurately cutting the pin to exact blade width.
This is his link ruclips.net/video/nsw5qlrdx2A/видео.html it saves trial and error. Another thing that might be altering your cut tolerance is how tight you are tightening the blocks at the back. Compressing too much will make the gaps smaller and tighter
Thanks for the link that's a great tip. I did think about how hard I'd clamped the templates & that it may have an effect. I still need to dial it in properly so will be trying it out
@@GrumpysWorkshop4 slightly bulky option is to glue them together at chosen spacing & hold them in place with a rail. Another size, glue another set. Just rely in slip fit. Then you can concentrate correct pin for looser/tighter joints
@@JohnColgan. that's a good idea too. Cheers mate
Wouldn't it also make a difference when clamping the stock to the front with the template that you don't make it too tight there? The template tightness may dictate how tight the joints will be.
Bb
This is way too complicated