hey, I want to say that I appreciate you uploading this video. My car has a terrible ignition switch. It takes a couple tries to get my car started, but it eventually keels over and starts. I have the part, and this video showed me a terrific understanding about how to come by replacing the switch myself. I'll give it a shot, and I'll tell you if this video is as simple as the job :) thank you.
Thank you very much, you have no idea how helpful your videos are for all of us with a small budgets and for the ones that love to do the things by our selfs. May God continue blessing you and your crew.
Use a Dremel to cut grooves in the flat smooth-headed bolts and unscrew normally to separate for those whop have them. This is what I did and lots of love to 1A Auto for recovering my literally crippled '95 Accord LX with their probably-the-best priced ignition switch. My car suddenly began to lose power and the speed and tach dials began cutting in and out erratically and D4 light began flashing. It reached a point where the car started, but engine cut off as soon as I released the key from position 3. This is a wide-spread issue with old Honda's and solved with ignition switch replacement!
+Nimish Gujarathi Thank you for the positive feedback. We really appreciate it! If you have a minute, drop us a review on our Facebook page to let other people know about your experience with us. Here's a link: facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
Thank you much. Plan to replace the switch this weekend and found this to be super helpful. You should start each video with a brief list of symptons that are caused by the defective part you're replacing. (just a thought).
That demonstration car you used has had the ignition worked on before. The bolts that hold the lock/switch in are security bolts from the factory, in that the head snaps off once tightened. This is done so once the switch/lock is in and tightened it cannot be easily removed to prevent theft. You either have to drill out or small, light hammer and small chisel to twist out, as I did. It takes some time. Then you can replace with normal bolts as your demonstration car has. So while your video was informative as showing that it is a simple fix to replace the switch, it is misleading that removing takes an 8mm socket.
@JoseRMtz92 I would check for a loose wire or ground in the engine compartment. Also clean the battery terminals and posts with a wire brush, so that you know that they're making good contact. You could also have the battery tested if it's old.
@agskeete You may want to make sure that the steering wheel isn't locked. You could also try to wiggle the key in the ignition as you turn it to see if it'll turn forward.
if you have power locks check to see if there's a blown fuse, power to the door lock actuator. Also check the wire harness between the door and body of the car for a broken wire that could be causing this issue.
I went to do this today, but just to mention they are not regular bolts holding the ignition cylinder in place. They are flat, smooth headed bolts just like carriage bolts. I'd imagine they are that way for anti theft purposes.. The only way to get them out is notching them with a punch or chisel and hammer counter clock wise until it is loose enough to un-thread by hand. Break both loose first before you start backing the bolts out too far cause the ignition will start to rock back and forth on the steering shaft and be hard to back the bolts out after that point. After you get those out then you can put in bolts like it shows in the video, for future removal.
Thank you for watching! The bolts you are speaking of are referred to as break away bolts. You are also correct in stating they are for security reasons. They have a normal hex head on the bolt, and when you tighten them all the way the head itself snaps off so they are not easily removed. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thundagoose Ha! Man I thought I was the only one in America that had that type of bolts on the car! I went to do this today and just ran into them. I got so mad and just now posted an ad on Craigslist to pay someone $30 to remove these 2 things! But I'm gonna try what you just said except might wait till tomorrow cause the way today's been going I'll probably accidentally break the whole steering wheel off or put a whole in the windshield! Anyways, thank you for this!
1A Auto Parts Thank you for the video! What a HUGE help this is even though right now I'm so pissed off by seeing these type of bolt issue that I ran into, but anyways, thanks a lot for the video!
@perutnt1 It depends on what the starter is doing. If you try to start the car and it clicks, but the headlights are strong and do not go dim, and everything electrically seems ok with the car, it very well could be a starter problem, especially if when you tap it, it seems to work again. You could make sure that there is power to the solenoid from the battery with a test light. We carry brand new starters on our website 1aauto.com with free shipping. Hope this helps you out.
It could be that. You may also want to inspect the wires under the hood to see if there's a loose battery cable or wire somewhere. It wouldn't hurt to clean the battery terminals if they haven't been cleaned in a while.
@asquemuel The manufacturer may have used different bolts between production runs. Yours could possibly be a torx bolt. If it is you can buy them at pretty much any store that sells wrenches.
We currently do not have an auto repair video on that particular year Acura. We'll keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair.
@DavidFrazier524 if there was a recall on the switch and it hasn't been fixed it wouldn't hurt to fix the issue.It may even clear up the issue that you are having.
I had a rounded off bolts (2:00) in my 96 accord (nothing to grab onto). I tried just about everything to get the bolts. I ended up drilling into the casting from the blinker side to break the screw. I took a sledgehammer and a wedge to finish splitting the casting from the collar and then it came off easily. Everything else was really easy after that!!
I have a 99 Acura 3.0CL and have the same rounded bolts. What type of drill bit did you use? I have a dremel with some bits, but I can buy more if it'll work, just need to know which bit(s) to get
There could be a loose wire on it. Also check you electrical connections to the battery to make sure thay are secure and that the battery terminal connections are clean.
@petepi1981 You may want to check around for a possible loose ground of frayed wire. You may also want to check your fuses and any relays that might be associated with your accessories.
Honestly something like that could be a wide range of things. The engine shutting of could be from a bad switch, distributor or it could be from a bad fuel pump. You will have to have someone diagnose the issue and then go from there.
The issue could be related to the distributor not working correctly. You might want to make sure you are getting voltage to the spark plugs for the distributor and go from there.
@misstoochie1 I did a little research on this one for you and some Honda owners have had luck with changing the battery if it's old. Others say it could also point to a TCU issue. If the battery isn't very old but terminals are corroded, you may want to clean them up, this may help to resolve the issue. Hope this helps.
There may be a pin on it that you need to press in to release it from the column but not 100% sure. We currently do not have an auto repair video that shows this particular auto repair.
It may be under the dashboard on the passenger side. or in the kick panel on the passenger or driver side. The owners manual would also show you where it is if you're not sure. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
It the battery cables are all clean, you may want to check the ignition to see if that's acting up. Also check for any bad grounds or loose wires in the engine bay. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
FYI those are not rivets that hold the switch to the column. It's a theft deterent 8MM bolt that looks like a rivet. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut slots into the heads of the bolts. I got the best results removing said bolts with a blade type bit from a multi-bit screwdriver and a 1/4" wrench. Great video though. Thanks for doing it!
@asquemuel Security feature - remove the hex portion of the bolt that sticks out, thus making it difficult to remove the bracket, making it difficult to remove the ignition switch from the keyed shaft. Once you bypass the keyed shaft, you don't need the key any more.
I have an 92 Prelude and i lost my only key from ignition . Those yellow big bolts next to steering column are "breaking head bolts" on some Hondas and it's really difficult to take them off . You need a small chisel or gouge and a hammer to cut a ditch in their round head for screwdriver .
Alright he had somebody pre-do this for him. There are more screws in the cover than what he took out, there's a wiring harness clipped to the bottom half of the cover and he had security screws without the heads busted off. For security screws, get a pointed punch, sharpened on a grinder if not shape to a point, then with a hammer back out the security screws counterclockwise. Once they break tension you can screw out by hand.
My car wouldnt start at times so id hit the starter with a wrench then it would start. so i took the starter out took it to autozone to get checked ,they said it was working good after doing the test. so i put it back in & now it still has the same problem. but i dont hit the starter anymore. could it be the iignition switch then?
+Rico Craigman Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionSwitch/Honda/Accord/1AZIS00012?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
@misstoochie1 the "S" could quite possibly be a problem with the factory security which will prevent the car starting, basically in most vehicles the key has a set resistance or "ohms" which the car recognizes as a numeric value and tells the car it isn't a foreign key and it's okay to run, common problems are 1. a worn key, ,or 2 . ignition switch. basically your car thinks it is being stolen, more common in chevrolets. good luck!
My 96 acura 2.5TL needs the ignition switch changed out. I took the initial screws out of the covering (around steering wheel) & the plastic seems to be stuck on the right side (by ignition). Any recommendations on how to get these pieces apart? Because when I try to pull/pry them, it looks like they are going to break. On the left side, the pieces come apart very easily, but the right side is not budging. Thanks for posting this. I'm sure once I get those pieces out, it will be a piece of cake.
Hi so I drive a 1995 Honda Accord LX. One day I put the key in and turned it to accessories to let everything start up then I went to crank the car and everything on the dashboard shut off in a instance. The car no longer cranks. I checked the fuses and the batteries and they all checked out. I’ve read online they the problem might be the ignition switch. Do you suggest I replace it?
my problem is that when i put the key in the ignition, it won’t turn. would i have to get a new key as well as the new ignition switch and reprogram it? i have a 97 honda accord. i can start the car still with a flat head screw driver bc i have taken apart the ignition but i don’t want to keep it that way for too long.
Hey I was just wondering if you guys knew if I needed a special tool to remove my ignition lock( tumbler) on my integra 1999, the tumbler is sticking and i need to replace it. Great video thanks for the help
Hey 1aauto I have a question for you I have a bad ignition switch (purchased the car like that) I just bought a used ignition off my buddy. My question is do I have to change the whole wiring kit or can I just change the metal part and keep the original kit?
Hi, Thank you for visiting us on Facebook. We currerntly do not have an auto repair video on that particular repair. We'll keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@1aauto started up a/c n all worked then took it for a drive and when i hit a bump or went thru puddle it goes out then came right back on then i pulled over began turning the wheel (which makes a grinding noise) back and forth it stayed on,until i put into drive it cut off.took it home cut if off started it up everything was fine again my wiring on underneath the car looks suspect but i don't know what to look for any pics diagrams for me to go off of
Thank you for this awesome video I replaced my switch on my Honda Accord 94. But now I have a question: when I put it on drive (D4) the light starts to blink after 5 min driving and also there is a click sound underneath the dashboard somewhere I can identify where this sound comes from. What can it be? What can I do?
Is this also typical for a 1998 Passport? Just curious. Thought I was having starter problems with a car we acquired. Former owners said the starter was changed and that the issue is most likely the ignition switch.
I replaced the ignition switch on my 98 Prelude today because the car was cutting off at random times when i was driving. After replacing the switch the car no longer starts. I was thinking maybe the battery had died as the car was sitting for about a week while I waited on the part but the lights are working. Basically when I turn the key nothing happens at all
my 94 honda accord will only stay running if i keep my ignition turned forward as soon as you let go it shuts off will replacing just the part you replaced in the video fix my issue or do i need to buy the hold lock cylinder assembly
+Josh Kelly Thanks for checking out our video! We'd suggest getting your vehicle looked at by a local mechanic as we cannot give you an exact diagnosis. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto i'm even going to mess with it i'm going to send the car to the junkyard i knew it had a valve cover leak but the prvious owner broke one of the valve cover bolts and left it just sitting in the hole and when i took the valve cover off there was some dirt in my head i'm not messing with it
Hey nice video! I have an issue though: What do I do if instead of the 2 8mm bolts that you show and talk about at around 2:01, I have 2 circular nail heads. I have no idea how to unscrew a screw with a nail head. By "nail head" I mean straight up flat surface that has a circular cross section. So is there a way to take out this special type of screw? Or is there another way to take out the unit. I would really appreciate your help. Thank you!
On removing the ignition switch, the video shows 8 mm bolts. My car does not have any 8 mm bolts. It has a rounded head instead. It must be a security feature. Is there a special tool to remove the rounded heads?
I've got aftermarket wiring soldered into my ignition switch (assuming imobilzer?), will this be an issue in replacing the switch? or can i just solder the wiring onto the new switch?
I replaced the starter in my car because it seemed to be having issues. But then 2 weeks later my car starts experiencing the exact same symptoms when I attempt to start the engine. There’s no crank or spark. Could it be just the ignition switch? I also recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay
I've been diagnosing a 1992 acura legend. It gets no fuel or spark. the main relay as well as the fuel pump and all the fuses are good. I was wondering if it could possibly be the ignition switrch
I have a 98 Acura cl and my car shuts off when driving but starts right up when I crank it but it just keep shutting completely off when I drive or in idle it only happens sometimes but do you think it can be the ignition switch just wondering
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
The repair shop wanted $250 for this fix. Thank you very much for posting this video.
hey, I want to say that I appreciate you uploading this video. My car has a terrible ignition switch. It takes a couple tries to get my car started, but it eventually keels over and starts. I have the part, and this video showed me a terrific understanding about how to come by replacing the switch myself. I'll give it a shot, and I'll tell you if this video is as simple as the job :) thank you.
Thank you very much, you have no idea how helpful your videos are for all of us with a small budgets and for the ones that love to do the things by our selfs. May God continue blessing you and your crew.
Thank you for watching. Glad we could be of help. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Use a Dremel to cut grooves in the flat smooth-headed bolts and unscrew normally to separate for those whop have them. This is what I did and lots of love to 1A Auto for recovering my literally crippled '95 Accord LX with their probably-the-best priced ignition switch. My car suddenly began to lose power and the speed and tach dials began cutting in and out erratically and D4 light began flashing. It reached a point where the car started, but engine cut off as soon as I released the key from position 3. This is a wide-spread issue with old Honda's and solved with ignition switch replacement!
+Nimish Gujarathi Thank you for the positive feedback. We really appreciate it! If you have a minute, drop us a review on our Facebook page to let other people know about your experience with us. Here's a link: facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
Done!
Thank you much. Plan to replace the switch this weekend and found this to be super helpful. You should start each video with a brief list of symptons that are caused by the defective part you're replacing. (just a thought).
The issue could definitely be the ignition switch if the car is not cranking over when the key is turned.
That demonstration car you used has had the ignition worked on before. The bolts that hold the lock/switch in are security bolts from the factory, in that the head snaps off once tightened. This is done so once the switch/lock is in and tightened it cannot be easily removed to prevent theft. You either have to drill out or small, light hammer and small chisel to twist out, as I did. It takes some time. Then you can replace with normal bolts as your demonstration car has. So while your video was informative as showing that it is a simple fix to replace the switch, it is misleading that removing takes an 8mm socket.
@PJON214 You may want to have the alternator tested to make sure that it's good, and also check the connections.
@JoseRMtz92 I would check for a loose wire or ground in the engine compartment. Also clean the battery terminals and posts with a wire brush, so that you know that they're making good contact. You could also have the battery tested if it's old.
@agskeete You may want to make sure that the steering wheel isn't locked. You could also try to wiggle the key in the ignition as you turn it to see if it'll turn forward.
if you have power locks check to see if there's a blown fuse, power to the door lock actuator. Also check the wire harness between the door and body of the car for a broken wire that could be causing this issue.
I went to do this today, but just to mention they are not regular bolts holding the ignition cylinder in place. They are flat, smooth headed bolts just like carriage bolts. I'd imagine they are that way for anti theft purposes.. The only way to get them out is notching them with a punch or chisel and hammer counter clock wise until it is loose enough to un-thread by hand. Break both loose first before you start backing the bolts out too far cause the ignition will start to rock back and forth on the steering shaft and be hard to back the bolts out after that point. After you get those out then you can put in bolts like it shows in the video, for future removal.
Thank you for watching! The bolts you are speaking of are referred to as break away bolts. You are also correct in stating they are for security reasons. They have a normal hex head on the bolt, and when you tighten them all the way the head itself snaps off so they are not easily removed.
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thundagoose Ha! Man I thought I was the only one in America that had that type of bolts on the car! I went to do this today and just ran into them. I got so mad and just now posted an ad on Craigslist to pay someone $30 to remove these 2 things! But I'm gonna try what you just said except might wait till tomorrow cause the way today's been going I'll probably accidentally break the whole steering wheel off or put a whole in the windshield!
Anyways, thank you for this!
1A Auto Parts Thank you for the video! What a HUGE help this is even though right now I'm so pissed off by seeing these type of bolt issue that I ran into, but anyways, thanks a lot for the video!
Sure enough 20 minute job becomes an hour...
@perutnt1 It depends on what the starter is doing. If you try to start the car and it clicks, but the headlights are strong and do not go dim, and everything electrically seems ok with the car, it very well could be a starter problem, especially if when you tap it, it seems to work again. You could make sure that there is power to the solenoid from the battery with a test light. We carry brand new starters on our website 1aauto.com with free shipping. Hope this helps you out.
@sweetkicker24 We currently do not have a supplier for this particular part. Thank you for checking out our auto repair channel on RUclips.
It could be that. You may also want to inspect the wires under the hood to see if there's a loose battery cable or wire somewhere. It wouldn't hurt to clean the battery terminals if they haven't been cleaned in a while.
@itzkhak If they're rivets, you may have to drill them out and replace them with bolts.
@asquemuel The manufacturer may have used different bolts between production runs. Yours could possibly be a torx bolt. If it is you can buy them at pretty much any store that sells wrenches.
There are only a couple of small bolts that hold them in, you can make them hand tight and they should be fine.
We currently do not have an auto repair video on that particular year Acura. We'll keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair.
@DavidFrazier524 if there was a recall on the switch and it hasn't been fixed it wouldn't hurt to fix the issue.It may even clear up the issue that you are having.
@CBR1100xx31 Yes the symptom you describe can be due to a worn ignition switch
@madk228 It is a trouble code for your ECU. Check the dash fuse., should be a 20Amp.
I had a rounded off bolts (2:00) in my 96 accord (nothing to grab onto). I tried just about everything to get the bolts. I ended up drilling into the casting from the blinker side to break the screw. I took a sledgehammer and a wedge to finish splitting the casting from the collar and then it came off easily. Everything else was really easy after that!!
Thank you for watching.
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I have a 99 Acura 3.0CL and have the same rounded bolts. What type of drill bit did you use? I have a dremel with some bits, but I can buy more if it'll work, just need to know which bit(s) to get
There could be a loose wire on it. Also check you electrical connections to the battery to make sure thay are secure and that the battery terminal connections are clean.
@petepi1981 You may want to check around for a possible loose ground of frayed wire. You may also want to check your fuses and any relays that might be associated with your accessories.
If it is completely smooth, it could possibly be a rivet holding it in. Normally rivets you have to drill out the head to remove the part.
@petepi1981 It could be that some of the electrical connections are still wet. Once everything dries out you should be ok. Hope this helps.
Honestly something like that could be a wide range of things. The engine shutting of could be from a bad switch, distributor or it could be from a bad fuel pump. You will have to have someone diagnose the issue and then go from there.
it could be, you may also want to check and clean the battery terminals to see if they're corroded.
@bdfd3001 If you're having a hard time turning the ignition with the key, it could be that the switch is worn.
The issue could be related to the distributor not working correctly. You might want to make sure you are getting voltage to the spark plugs for the distributor and go from there.
@mexprd You should be able to install it as the video shows.
@misstoochie1 I did a little research on this one for you and some Honda owners have had luck with changing the battery if it's old. Others say it could also point to a TCU issue. If the battery isn't very old but terminals are corroded, you may want to clean them up, this may help to resolve the issue. Hope this helps.
@misstoochie1 It stands for Transmission Control Unit. I would try the easy things first though like the battery. Hope this helps.
There may be a pin on it that you need to press in to release it from the column but not 100% sure. We currently do not have an auto repair video that shows this particular auto repair.
@1980brownsfan Also make sure that the steering wheel isn't in a locked position.
@JoseRMtz92 You could have the battery tested at your local parts store.
It may be under the dashboard on the passenger side. or in the kick panel on the passenger or driver side. The owners manual would also show you where it is if you're not sure. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
If it has rivets, you may have to remove the rivets so that you can change the ignition.
You may want to see if you can wiggle it around as you pull it back out.
It the battery cables are all clean, you may want to check the ignition to see if that's acting up. Also check for any bad grounds or loose wires in the engine bay. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@bluesfanm60 You're welcome. We also sell the part in the video with free shipping on our website 1aauto.com
You could try to reconnect it as the factory had it, to see if that solves your issue.
If you have a check engine light on you may want to read the code to see what it points to.
If that's the case then it probably wouldn't hurt to replace the switch. You may want to try to see if that works.
FYI those are not rivets that hold the switch to the column. It's a theft deterent 8MM bolt that looks like a rivet. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut slots into the heads of the bolts. I got the best results removing said bolts with a blade type bit from a multi-bit screwdriver and a 1/4" wrench. Great video though. Thanks for doing it!
We currently do not carry an ignition switch for that particular application. Thanks for visiting us on RUclips. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@asquemuel Security feature - remove the hex portion of the bolt that sticks out, thus making it difficult to remove the bracket, making it difficult to remove the ignition switch from the keyed shaft. Once you bypass the keyed shaft, you don't need the key any more.
1997 acura. attempting tonight to switch mine out, thank you for video.
if there is no head on the screw make one with a dremel or can hit it with a hammer and screw driver loosing it till u van unscrew by hand
You should be able to key the new ignition to use your existing key.
Is there any type of a check engine light on?
@sweetkicker24 It could be that the switch has gone, or is going bad.
You may need to drill the rivets out to service the part, and then rivet the new one back in.
I have an 92 Prelude and i lost my only key from ignition . Those yellow big bolts next to steering column are "breaking head bolts" on some Hondas and it's really difficult to take them off . You need a small chisel or gouge and a hammer to cut a ditch in their round head for screwdriver .
You may want to check the cap and rotor on the distributor and replace them if they are worn out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
You may need a torx bit to trmove them.
If should come out as shown in the video.
If you have a flat head screw driver you should be able to back them out.
It's always a good idea to disconnect your battery while working on electrical parts on your vehicle.
it could be, you may want to have the fuel pressure checked.
Alright he had somebody pre-do this for him. There are more screws in the cover than what he took out, there's a wiring harness clipped to the bottom half of the cover and he had security screws without the heads busted off. For security screws, get a pointed punch, sharpened on a grinder if not shape to a point, then with a hammer back out the security screws counterclockwise. Once they break tension you can screw out by hand.
My car wouldnt start at times so id hit the starter with a wrench then it would start. so i took the starter out took it to autozone to get checked ,they said it was working good after doing the test. so i put it back in & now it still has the same problem. but i dont hit the starter anymore. could it be the iignition switch then?
Thanks for the video. Very helpful and informative. Keep up the great work. Us do it yourselers need all the help we can get. Thanks
+Rico Craigman Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionSwitch/Honda/Accord/1AZIS00012?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
From what you're describing, it sounds like the ignition switch may be acting up. We carry new ones on our website 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@misstoochie1 the "S" could quite possibly be a problem with the factory security which will prevent the car starting, basically in most vehicles the key has a set resistance or "ohms" which the car recognizes as a numeric value and tells the car it isn't a foreign key and it's okay to run, common problems are 1. a worn key, ,or 2 . ignition switch. basically your car thinks it is being stolen, more common in chevrolets. good luck!
@mouayingvang91 I'll try to do that one in the future.
lovely work my friend. will try to do this myself once i get my part in this week. ur a life saver ✨ ✨ ✨
There may be a loose electrical connection somewhere that's causing this issue.
2015-16 and this video is still usefull
My 96 acura 2.5TL needs the ignition switch changed out. I took the initial screws out of the covering (around steering wheel) & the plastic seems to be stuck on the right side (by ignition). Any recommendations on how to get these pieces apart? Because when I try to pull/pry them, it looks like they are going to break. On the left side, the pieces come apart very easily, but the right side is not budging. Thanks for posting this. I'm sure once I get those pieces out, it will be a piece of cake.
If the switch is bad, it could inhibit you from turning the key forward.
Hi so I drive a 1995 Honda Accord LX. One day I put the key in and turned it to accessories to let everything start up then I went to crank the car and everything on the dashboard shut off in a instance. The car no longer cranks. I checked the fuses and the batteries and they all checked out. I’ve read online they the problem might be the ignition switch. Do you suggest I replace it?
my problem is that when i put the key in the ignition, it won’t turn. would i have to get a new key as well as the new ignition switch and reprogram it? i have a 97 honda accord. i can start the car still with a flat head screw driver bc i have taken apart the ignition but i don’t want to keep it that way for too long.
Hey I was just wondering if you guys knew if I needed a special tool to remove my ignition lock( tumbler) on my integra 1999, the tumbler is sticking and i need to replace it. Great video thanks for the help
I need to meet this man and shake his hand
Hey 1aauto I have a question for you I have a bad ignition switch (purchased the car like that) I just bought a used ignition off my buddy. My question is do I have to change the whole wiring kit or can I just change the metal part and keep the original kit?
Hi, Thank you for visiting us on Facebook. We currerntly do not have an auto repair video on that particular repair. We'll keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@1aauto started up a/c n all worked then took it for a drive and when i hit a bump or went thru puddle it goes out then came right back on then i pulled over began turning the wheel (which makes a grinding noise) back and forth it stayed on,until i put into drive it cut off.took it home cut if off started it up everything was fine again my wiring on underneath the car looks suspect but i don't know what to look for any pics diagrams for me to go off of
The ignition may be worn in it.
Thank you for this awesome video I replaced my switch on my Honda Accord 94. But now I have a question: when I put it on drive (D4) the light starts to blink after 5 min driving and also there is a click sound underneath the dashboard somewhere I can identify where this sound comes from. What can it be? What can I do?
I checked all the wiring but still can't find the reason. Thank you anyway
Is this also typical for a 1998 Passport? Just curious. Thought I was having starter problems with a car we acquired. Former owners said the starter was changed and that the issue is most likely the ignition switch.
I replaced the ignition switch on my 98 Prelude today because the car was cutting off at random times when i was driving. After replacing the switch the car no longer starts. I was thinking maybe the battery had died as the car was sitting for about a week while I waited on the part but the lights are working. Basically when I turn the key nothing happens at all
Steven Quintanilla same happened wit my 95 legend... how did u fix yours???????
my 94 honda accord will only stay running if i keep my ignition turned forward as soon as you let go it shuts off will replacing just the part you replaced in the video fix my issue or do i need to buy the hold lock cylinder assembly
+Josh Kelly Thanks for checking out our video! We'd suggest getting your vehicle looked at by a local mechanic as we cannot give you an exact diagnosis. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto i'm even going to mess with it i'm going to send the car to the junkyard i knew it had a valve cover leak but the prvious owner broke one of the valve cover bolts and left it just sitting in the hole and when i took the valve cover off there was some dirt in my head i'm not messing with it
i have the same problem CBR1100xx31 said,after seeing this video i am going to buy a ignition swith and see iff that helps.
Hey nice video! I have an issue though: What do I do if instead of the 2 8mm bolts that you show and talk about at around 2:01, I have 2 circular nail heads. I have no idea how to unscrew a screw with a nail head. By "nail head" I mean straight up flat surface that has a circular cross section. So is there a way to take out this special type of screw? Or is there another way to take out the unit. I would really appreciate your help. Thank you!
On removing the ignition switch, the video shows 8 mm bolts. My car does not have any 8 mm bolts. It has a rounded head instead. It must be a security feature. Is there a special tool to remove the rounded heads?
I've got aftermarket wiring soldered into my ignition switch (assuming imobilzer?), will this be an issue in replacing the switch? or can i just solder the wiring onto the new switch?
It might depend on what the wiring goes to. If you hook it back up the same way it might be okay. 1aauto.com
big thanx will be ordering a few parts soon
same problem here any suggestions besides torx? its totally smooth type of bolt. nothing to plug a screwdriver into or anything like that
It might be similar.
I replaced the starter in my car because it seemed to be having issues. But then 2 weeks later my car starts experiencing the exact same symptoms when I attempt to start the engine. There’s no crank or spark. Could it be just the ignition switch? I also recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay
Thank you very much for the video,it is really helpful.
I have a 1992 Accord. Is the proccess going to be similar to this video?
I've been diagnosing a 1992 acura legend. It gets no fuel or spark. the main relay as well as the fuel pump and all the fuses are good. I was wondering if it could possibly be the ignition switrch
Probably a dumb question but it’s the same process for both automatic and standard right?
What is the tightening torque of those bolts? Do I need to worry they're near the air-bag?
I have a 98 Acura cl and my car shuts off when driving but starts right up when I crank it but it just keep shutting completely off when I drive or in idle it only happens sometimes but do you think it can be the ignition switch just wondering
Same car, same problem. Hope you got it fixed. about to try it myself.
how long did it take to do this? I have a mobile mechanic coming to replace mine, and I don't want to get ripped off. Thanks!