Mitch, I have watched many of your videos without saying anything because that is me but I have to now say that I am so amazed of your knowledge and understanding of air conditioning. I always leave with a deeper and thorough understanding! Thanks for making yourself so available to help!
BUT no one will know the real cost since all the units are the same so no comparisons. The units were likly on bid for the project and the cheep wins!. Your operating cost dont matter, only oroffit matters to the bean counters
great explanation. Do you have a video on explaining what Unit Size 2.0 tons, 2.5 tons, 3.0 tons etc. mean? I am thinking of upgrading to 14 seer 2.5 Tons v.s. 14 seer 3.0 tons But i don't know which one is better to pick. My home size is 1400 square feet interior space. That would be much appreciated!
So tonnage was based on how much energy in BTU"s (British Thermal Units) were needed to melt a ton of ice, which was 288,000 BTU's over 24 hours, if you divide the 288,000 by 24, you come up with 12,000 BTU's. So a 3 ton is 3 X 12,000 or 36,000 BTU's, 2 ton is 2.5 ton is 2.5 X 12,000 or 30,000 BTU's and so on. The actual size you will need is based on your location, how the house was constructed and how the house faces. I use Wrightsoft to do load calculations on the homes that we change out systems on. A load calculation is the only way to determine the size of the equipment. In the old days most contractors used a rule of thumb, in our area 1 ton for every 500 square feet. The problem with doing that is at best it is a guess and at worst we could oversize the equipment and or undersize it, both are bad. Oversized equipment wastes energy and costs more to install and run, undersized equipment won't keep up, it's like the Goldilocks and the three bears, one is too big, one is too small, and one is just the right size. I have a video drawing a house up in wrightsoft and another on getting what you paid for, there are links below. Thanks, for the question, I hope I answered it for you. Getting what you paid for ruclips.net/video/-gL8FS8Rbt4/видео.html Right size your AC ruclips.net/video/hTAWpYJO-nI/видео.html Drawing a house in Wrightsoft ruclips.net/video/3bdpqGEe6lA/видео.html
This is a great explanation except I believe the first formula is incorrect. Test the equation yourself. 3,600 X 1159 = 4,172,400 4,172,400 / 8 = 521,550 521,550 X .25 = 130,387 130,387 / 1000= 130.38 If you use 100 to divide the kw rate per hour it (the formula) works. This is because the rate per kw hour is given in cents (per one hundred of one dollar). I'm not saying I know I'm right your wrong with 100% confidence. I just wanted to complete the math myself and verify get the same result and could not get the formula to match the video. Thanks for posting this. I learned a bunch.
Dear Sir, can you clarify this for me please: EER is equal to BTU/h over input Wattage. and we know that we can convert BTU/h to W/h by multiplying with 0.293071 so we know that BTU's/h is our output and W/h is our input and when we convert our BTU/h to W/h and then divide output wattage over input wattage we get a number greater than one, which doesn't make sense, since our ideal efficiency wouldn't exceed 1. Thanks
Mitch, I have watched many of your videos without saying anything because that is me but I have to now say that I am so amazed of your knowledge and understanding of air conditioning. I always leave with a deeper and thorough understanding! Thanks for making yourself so available to help!
Incredibly helpful, thank you so much. No need to look at any other videos regarding SEER or EER...
Another great video. Thank You :)
That was great, thank you!
Very useful and clear, thank you!
Great video and easy to understand...Thank you.
Awesome video. What pen program are you using if you don't mind?
But would that 16 seer unit not degrade over the 20 years? So it would not stay a 16 seer?
Also, he does not factor in the cost of the new 16 SEER unit and the negative effect that has on savings over time.
Brand new condos behind me only have 13 SEER units. Although it's in a region where it's the minimum is 13 unlike southern states.
BUT no one will know the real cost since all the units are the same so no comparisons. The units were likly on bid for the project and the cheep wins!. Your operating cost dont matter, only oroffit matters to the bean counters
great explanation.
Do you have a video on explaining what Unit Size 2.0 tons, 2.5 tons, 3.0 tons etc. mean?
I am thinking of upgrading to 14 seer 2.5 Tons v.s. 14 seer 3.0 tons But i don't know which one is better to pick.
My home size is 1400 square feet interior space.
That would be much appreciated!
So tonnage was based on how much energy in BTU"s (British Thermal Units) were needed to melt a ton of ice, which was 288,000 BTU's over 24 hours, if you divide the 288,000 by 24, you come up with 12,000 BTU's. So a 3 ton is 3 X 12,000 or 36,000 BTU's, 2 ton is 2.5 ton is 2.5 X 12,000 or 30,000 BTU's and so on.
The actual size you will need is based on your location, how the house was constructed and how the house faces. I use Wrightsoft to do load calculations on the homes that we change out systems on. A load calculation is the only way to determine the size of the equipment.
In the old days most contractors used a rule of thumb, in our area 1 ton for every 500 square feet. The problem with doing that is at best it is a guess and at worst we could oversize the equipment and or undersize it, both are bad. Oversized equipment wastes energy and costs more to install and run, undersized equipment won't keep up, it's like the Goldilocks and the three bears, one is too big, one is too small, and one is just the right size.
I have a video drawing a house up in wrightsoft and another on getting what you paid for, there are links below. Thanks, for the question, I hope I answered it for you.
Getting what you paid for
ruclips.net/video/-gL8FS8Rbt4/видео.html
Right size your AC
ruclips.net/video/hTAWpYJO-nI/видео.html
Drawing a house in Wrightsoft
ruclips.net/video/3bdpqGEe6lA/видео.html
nice
How did you get that 1159 cool hours?
I believe he said that number was for Modesto, Ca.
You can get degree day info from several sites.
Wish you added Heating Season Performance Factor to this video and the adjustment to the number by locality info. Otherwise a very helpfull video.
COP = EER/3.412
This is a great explanation except I believe the first formula is incorrect.
Test the equation yourself.
3,600 X 1159 = 4,172,400
4,172,400 / 8 = 521,550
521,550 X .25 = 130,387
130,387 / 1000= 130.38
If you use 100 to divide the kw rate per hour it (the formula) works. This is because the rate per kw hour is given in cents (per one hundred of one dollar).
I'm not saying I know I'm right your wrong with 100% confidence. I just wanted to complete the math myself and verify get the same result and could not get the formula to match the video.
Thanks for posting this. I learned a bunch.
You messed up. Your first term was transcribed wrong. You wrote 3600, it should be 36000. There's your solution. You're welcome 😊.
but, what´s seer?
Dear Sir, can you clarify this for me please:
EER is equal to BTU/h over input Wattage.
and we know that we can convert BTU/h to W/h by multiplying with 0.293071
so we know that BTU's/h is our output and W/h is our input and when we convert our BTU/h to W/h and then divide output wattage over input wattage we get a number greater than one, which doesn't make sense, since our ideal efficiency wouldn't exceed 1.
Thanks
EER = BTU output Divided by (Watts x 3.412)