Hi Sharon. You won't find it on individual videos. Need to be on the channel page. On a desktop its in the horizontal menu. The position seems to change depending on the browser, which is strange. On a mobile it should be in a menu at the top of the channel page. Thank you.
Hi Susie. Are you on a desktop or a mobile phone? On a desktop its in the horizontal menu just below the channel header. On a mobile there should be a menu at the top and it should be in there. Both menus start Home, Videos, Playlists and then Community.
Hi Colleen Most of what I use is marked. But you can tell if it is non magnetic and if ground on a grinder produces a stream of sparks, not just a couple. Though some lower grade is still magnetic. I know grinding is destructive so pick a suitable area. If you Google it you’ll probably find more.
Great ideas, thankbyou Jeff. I just purchased a few dishes yesterday. I think there may be some stoneware for the small plates. Do you know if they would work? I think I have porcelain as well, but according to your one video with the porcelain dish with offset corners, the porcelain should not be a problem. How did you deal with the painted surface on the 3 tray dish? Thanks again.
Hi Kevin. Checked your videos and I hope it's Kevin. Not sure about stoneware. I know it has a lot lower firing temp around 650 C (1200 F) I believe. This isn't much more than slump temp. Ceramic and porcelain are okay. The only problem that I can think of with porcelain is often quite thin and I'm not sure how it would go with heavier items. I usually sandblast any dishes I use, but I have heard others just put a separate over the top.
@Jeff Pritchard Lol. Yes, it's me. Thanks for checking out my videos. Going to get some fusing videos as well. Thanks for the info about the dishes. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Have a great weekend.
Hi Lauren. From what I Googled surgical steel is a high grade of stainless or less resistant to corrosion. That should make it an excellent mould. You should fire it to burn off any contaminants so you'll find out then. If it just discolours it should be fine. If it flakes no.
Yes, if you think there's the possibility of air being trapped under the glass. Usually comes down to how steep the sides are and how well the piece seals around the mould.
Hi Donna. There are glues that you could use that are extremely good at gluing glass on glass. I think there's a Loctite product that will tolerate water. Someone else here may have some input on this.
Hi Lesley. First time, 2 light coats. Firings after that, if a good surface, I lightly brush with a hake brush, then another light coat. The brushing is to help smooth the surface. If the surface is a little damaged I brush a little harder in that area to smooth any edges. If a bad surface, a good brush to remove the damage before recoating. I rRarely have to do more than 1 coat. Always 15 minutes drying. I know some artists reuse moulds without recoating, but I've found I can get marks on the pieces if I don't respray. It's too late then to repair, so I play safe.
Great advice. I can’t wait to start buying molds. If you have time to make a video showing the slumped glass next to the mold you used, I would love that. I have trouble visualizing the final outcome when just looking at a mold. I’d also love to see molds that let you make glass that stands up on its own (no stand). Love your videos. They’re so thorough, step by step, incredibly helpful for someone who just got their first kiln. :)
Hi. This recent video was using a repurposed ceramic plate. ruclips.net/video/iieV9khVq6I/видео.html And this on also. ruclips.net/video/gSwXJ4yoF3g/видео.html though it slipped. But I'm sure to do more. Hope that helps.
very informative video, ive had to break several molds that are ceramic to free my glass when doing a drape. Have never slumped in stainless only used them to drape over. ive watched many of your videos do u do anything that hangs in a window?
Hi Elaine. Yes, it's not a nice feeling, breaking your work. Stainless is fine for a slump. If using a bowl make sure it has a gently slop which allows the glass to pop up a bit and not get caught. I've made some custom moulds of stainless. This simple platter here is a mould I made. ruclips.net/video/JqyEWHQqNvw/видео.html I've even just got a flat piece of stainless and randomly bent it up to create a unique, though odd mould. But worked fine. If you mean like suncatchers, or even chimes, yes I have made these. Though haven't done many videos on them. There is one on a suncatcher here , ruclips.net/video/FXifvoQ-6RU/видео.html. Hope this all helps.
@@RocketRoseArt thank you! I haven't used stainless yet, but am going to experiment with stainless steel light switch plate covers, so my switch plate covers will actually curve like the plastic / metal ones do. *crossing fingers*
Hi Gabriella. On the inside mostly. Usually only drape over stainless steel. Things like stainless mixing bowls. I don't think there's a best. Some moulds aren't suitable for inside slump and some not suitable for an outside drape.
Hello, I would like to make barrette (hair clips) and the molds are expensive and delivery times very long. I have a Christmas market and I have to do it quickly. Do you have a way to make a homemade mold, it's just a little curve to make. Thank you :-)
Hi. Yes, have done it myself. Go to your local scrap metal dealer or an engineering shop and as for some scrap or offcuts of thin stainless steel sheet. Thin enough so you can bend it by hand. Cut pieces to suit your size and bend into a curve that matches the barrette. If you have something round, like a bottle, use it to get a smooth curve. Bend slowly. I made mine wide enough so I can make a few at a time. Fuse up the barrettes to length then drape over the moulds. Voila! Barrettes.
Hi Kristy. You can reuse without respraying. Though I give a light brush, with a very soft brush, just to get a more uniform surface, and respray each time. The reason being that if the surface is disturbed in any way it will show on your piece where it comes into contact. Just like kiln wash. Any imperfection may show up. But that is just one very quick and light spray. Inspect the surface of the mould beforehand.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you so much, Jeff! I am a beginner and I'm like a sponge right now, soaking up all the info I can get! Lol Thank you for your simple teaching methods, as I feel like I have more confidence now to try!🤗
Jeff, Thank you for this video. going into the video at 2:48 you talk about the 3 compartment carrot mold. for this one and others of that size, would you consider drilling a number of breathing holes?
Hello, love your videos. I learns so much. I am wondering if porcelain also can be used for molds as it is fired very hot. Also the stainless. Does it have to be any specific mix of stainless as there are several different ratings of stainless for home use. 18/10 is the one that i am most familiar with as that is my pots for my induction cooktop.thank you.
Hi Diane. Not sure about the rating. Can't say I've ever worried about it. I've used things from a cheap shop, even cut up a toilet brush holder to get thin sheets to shape. Everything so far has worked. As far as porcelain, in this video here I used a porcelain piece for a mould and it worked fine. ruclips.net/video/gSwXJ4yoF3g/видео.html Hope that helps.
Hi Susannah. I haven't used kiln wash for a number of years now, but can't see any reason why you couldn't. You will need to rough up the surface or sandblast off the glaze as kiln wash, and even boron, doesn't like shiny smooth surfaces. If using stainless be sure to do a firing with the stainless without any coating to burn off any oil first.
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm sure you can, though I suggest sandblasting off any glaze before hand. It may not adhere well to the glaze. I've never done it but can't see why it would be any different to other bisque ceramic moulds.
No, never tried. Can't say I've come across much in terracotta that would work for slumping. I don't think it's as durable as ceramic, though it is used a lot for pot melts, so should be okay. The surface may not be as finished. You may get more texture, but using shelf wash may get over that. Worth trying.
Hi Everyone. If possible, can you go to the Community tab and reply to a poll and another question I have there. Would really appreciate it.
Where can I find the community tab?
Hi Sharon. You won't find it on individual videos. Need to be on the channel page. On a desktop its in the horizontal menu. The position seems to change depending on the browser, which is strange. On a mobile it should be in a menu at the top of the channel page. Thank you.
I love this idea and the spoon rest is really interesting.
I’m glad it helps Kristi.
CN you use kiln wash or thinfire paper instead of boron nitride?
Yes. Thinfire may be a bit difficult in some moulds.
Can batt wash be used instead or boron nitrate for both stainless steal and sand blasted ceramics
I would think so. Just give it a test with some scrap.
Where do you buy biron nitrate
I actually imported it from the US, but you can buy it in Australia now.
This was great!! Thank you so much Jeff!!
My pleasure!
Hi Jeff. I don’t see how to get to the community tab? Thanks.
Hi Susie. Are you on a desktop or a mobile phone? On a desktop its in the horizontal menu just below the channel header. On a mobile there should be a menu at the top and it should be in there. Both menus start Home, Videos, Playlists and then Community.
This video inspired me thank you❤
You are so welcome!
How can you be sure it is stainless steel? I found a nice meal shallow dish but not sure whet kind of metal it is made from and it is not marked.
Hi Colleen
Most of what I use is marked. But you can tell if it is non magnetic and if ground on a grinder produces a stream of sparks, not just a couple. Though some lower grade is still magnetic. I know grinding is destructive so pick a suitable area. If you Google it you’ll probably find more.
Thanks Jeff, great ideas and good advice as always
Always happy I can help.
I just started fusing glass. Sooooooooooooo confusing but love your video's. Thank you for all you show. I can't get anough
Hi Debbie. Glad I can help.
Good tips
Hi Suz. Glad to help.
Great ideas, thankbyou Jeff. I just purchased a few dishes yesterday. I think there may be some stoneware for the small plates. Do you know if they would work? I think I have porcelain as well, but according to your one video with the porcelain dish with offset corners, the porcelain should not be a problem. How did you deal with the painted surface on the 3 tray dish?
Thanks again.
Hi Kevin. Checked your videos and I hope it's Kevin. Not sure about stoneware. I know it has a lot lower firing temp around 650 C (1200 F) I believe. This isn't much more than slump temp. Ceramic and porcelain are okay. The only problem that I can think of with porcelain is often quite thin and I'm not sure how it would go with heavier items. I usually sandblast any dishes I use, but I have heard others just put a separate over the top.
@Jeff Pritchard Lol. Yes, it's me. Thanks for checking out my videos. Going to get some fusing videos as well. Thanks for the info about the dishes. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Have a great weekend.
@@cobaltglasscustomworks6481 I've just subscribed and look forward to seeing your videos.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you. I appreciate that.
THANKS FOR THE INFO😊
My pleasure Annette.
Hi Jeff, have been given some old surgical steel dental bowls. Can I use them for draping? TIA
Hi Lauren. From what I Googled surgical steel is a high grade of stainless or less resistant to corrosion. That should make it an excellent mould. You should fire it to burn off any contaminants so you'll find out then. If it just discolours it should be fine. If it flakes no.
Jeff, do you drill small holes in molds? Thanks for the interesting videos.
Yes, if you think there's the possibility of air being trapped under the glass. Usually comes down to how steep the sides are and how well the piece seals around the mould.
Can you use bisque-fired ceramics to avoid the glaze problem?
Absolutely. Most moulds you purchase for slumping are just bisque fired ceramics.
Thanks for the quick reply.
I need hollow half shapes for wall hanging bud vases but then I half to fuse or put shape on platform it needs to hold water
Hi Donna. There are glues that you could use that are extremely good at gluing glass on glass. I think there's a Loctite product that will tolerate water. Someone else here may have some input on this.
Thank you very much Jeff. I really appreciate you for taking the time and explaining everything in this video. It was very helpful.
How are you Ghislaine? Well I hope. It's always great to know it helps.
Thank you Jeff, nice hint on where to find cheap molds and how to prepare them for use.
Hi Gwen. Hope you're well. Best thing is you can get shapes that aren't available normally.
How many coats of boron nitrate do you spray on and how much time do you need to leave between coats? Thanks very informative
Hi Lesley. First time, 2 light coats. Firings after that, if a good surface, I lightly brush with a hake brush, then another light coat. The brushing is to help smooth the surface. If the surface is a little damaged I brush a little harder in that area to smooth any edges. If a bad surface, a good brush to remove the damage before recoating. I rRarely have to do more than 1 coat. Always 15 minutes drying. I know some artists reuse moulds without recoating, but I've found I can get marks on the pieces if I don't respray. It's too late then to repair, so I play safe.
Wonderful video. Thanks so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love this, looking forward to finding my own unique pieces to work with.
I'm sure you'll find some. It's amazing what I've found. Good luck with it.
This was great!!
My pleasure Maggie.
Great advice. I can’t wait to start buying molds. If you have time to make a video showing the slumped glass next to the mold you used, I would love that. I have trouble visualizing the final outcome when just looking at a mold. I’d also love to see molds that let you make glass that stands up on its own (no stand). Love your videos. They’re so thorough, step by step, incredibly helpful for someone who just got their first kiln. :)
Hi.
This recent video was using a repurposed ceramic plate. ruclips.net/video/iieV9khVq6I/видео.html
And this on also. ruclips.net/video/gSwXJ4yoF3g/видео.html though it slipped.
But I'm sure to do more. Hope that helps.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you. Yes, it definitely helps. :)
Thanks! I’m hoping to look for interesting molds now that the thrift stores are open again.
Nothing like checking out thrift stores 👍
Thank you for ALL your videos.
You give very helpful information.
Thanks again.
very informative video, ive had to break several molds that are ceramic to free my glass when doing a drape. Have never slumped in stainless only used them to drape over. ive watched many of your videos do u do anything that hangs in a window?
Hi Elaine. Yes, it's not a nice feeling, breaking your work.
Stainless is fine for a slump. If using a bowl make sure it has a gently slop which allows the glass to pop up a bit and not get caught.
I've made some custom moulds of stainless. This simple platter here is a mould I made.
ruclips.net/video/JqyEWHQqNvw/видео.html
I've even just got a flat piece of stainless and randomly bent it up to create a unique, though odd mould. But worked fine.
If you mean like suncatchers, or even chimes, yes I have made these. Though haven't done many videos on them.
There is one on a suncatcher here , ruclips.net/video/FXifvoQ-6RU/видео.html.
Hope this all helps.
how do the firing schedules change (or do they?) between ceramic and stainless molds? Can you just use the same schedule regardless of the mold type?
Hi Brandi. Yes. I always have and can't see any problem with doing so. It's the shape of the mould that can change the schedule.
@@RocketRoseArt thank you! I haven't used stainless yet, but am going to experiment with stainless steel light switch plate covers, so my switch plate covers will actually curve like the plastic / metal ones do. *crossing fingers*
Thank you for your info, it is always needed, question, do you slump your glass out side the mold or inside¿. Or what is the difference, or the best?.
Hi Gabriella. On the inside mostly. Usually only drape over stainless steel. Things like stainless mixing bowls. I don't think there's a best. Some moulds aren't suitable for inside slump and some not suitable for an outside drape.
Muy lindo video!!! Muy práctico!!! Muchas gracias!!!!
Hola Maria. Muy feliz de que ayude. Gracias.
Hello, I would like to make barrette (hair clips) and the molds are expensive and delivery times very long. I have a Christmas market and I have to do it quickly. Do you have a way to make a homemade mold, it's just a little curve to make. Thank you :-)
Hi. Yes, have done it myself. Go to your local scrap metal dealer or an engineering shop and as for some scrap or offcuts of thin stainless steel sheet. Thin enough so you can bend it by hand. Cut pieces to suit your size and bend into a curve that matches the barrette. If you have something round, like a bottle, use it to get a smooth curve. Bend slowly. I made mine wide enough so I can make a few at a time. Fuse up the barrettes to length then drape over the moulds. Voila! Barrettes.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you very much :-) So any sheet metal? made of metal? I'll go to the hardware store.
How often do you have to spray the boron nitride on kiln molds? Do you get multiple firings or do you have to respray the mold everytime?
Hi Kristy. You can reuse without respraying. Though I give a light brush, with a very soft brush, just to get a more uniform surface, and respray each time. The reason being that if the surface is disturbed in any way it will show on your piece where it comes into contact. Just like kiln wash. Any imperfection may show up. But that is just one very quick and light spray. Inspect the surface of the mould beforehand.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you so much, Jeff! I am a beginner and I'm like a sponge right now, soaking up all the info I can get! Lol Thank you for your simple teaching methods, as I feel like I have more confidence now to try!🤗
Jeff,
Thank you for this video. going into the video at 2:48 you talk about the 3 compartment carrot mold. for this one and others of that size, would you consider drilling a number of breathing holes?
Hi Stefan A couple in the bottom wouldn't hurt, but I think the sides are good so air should escape okay.
Hello, love your videos. I learns so much. I am wondering if porcelain also can be used for molds as it is fired very hot. Also the stainless. Does it have to be any specific mix of stainless as there are several different ratings of stainless for home use. 18/10 is the one that i am most familiar with as that is my pots for my induction cooktop.thank you.
Hi Diane. Not sure about the rating. Can't say I've ever worried about it. I've used things from a cheap shop, even cut up a toilet brush holder to get thin sheets to shape. Everything so far has worked. As far as porcelain, in this video here I used a porcelain piece for a mould and it worked fine. ruclips.net/video/gSwXJ4yoF3g/видео.html Hope that helps.
thanks for this. Do you ever kiln wash them instead of using the boron spray?
Hi Susannah. I haven't used kiln wash for a number of years now, but can't see any reason why you couldn't. You will need to rough up the surface or sandblast off the glaze as kiln wash, and even boron, doesn't like shiny smooth surfaces. If using stainless be sure to do a firing with the stainless without any coating to burn off any oil first.
Thank you, Jeff, a really useful guide. I now feel confident enough to seek out some different and diverse moulds. I love watching your videos.
Hi Jeff, can I use primo primer for my ceramic molds like the ones you show in you videos?
Hi Bill. Yes, I'm sure you can, though I suggest sandblasting off any glaze before hand. It may not adhere well to the glaze. I've never done it but can't see why it would be any different to other bisque ceramic moulds.
Hi Dorothy. Glad it helped. Looking for new shapes is an adventure in itself. 👍
Jeff. Thanks for the great video. Just a quick question. Have you ever tried using terracotta and if so, what has been your experience?
No, never tried. Can't say I've come across much in terracotta that would work for slumping. I don't think it's as durable as ceramic, though it is used a lot for pot melts, so should be okay. The surface may not be as finished. You may get more texture, but using shelf wash may get over that. Worth trying.