There could be several possible causes for a 1990's Ford pickup truck to idle with erratic RPMs. ⬇️ Here are a few possibilities: 1. Vacuum leaks: A vacuum leak can occur when there is an air leak in the engine's intake manifold or hoses. This can cause the engine to idle irregularly. 2. Faulty idle control valve: The idle control valve controls the engine's idle speed. A faulty or dirty idle control valve can cause the engine to idle erratically. 3. Dirty or clogged air filter: A dirty or clogged air filter can restrict airflow to the engine, causing it to idle irregularly. 4. Malfunctioning throttle position sensor: The throttle position sensor monitors the position of the throttle and sends signals to the engine control module. A malfunctioning sensor can cause the engine to idle irregularly. 5. Faulty fuel injectors: Fuel injectors spray fuel into the engine's combustion chamber. If a fuel injector is faulty or clogged, it can cause the engine to idle irregularly. 6. Malfunctioning EGR valve: The EGR valve recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine to reduce emissions. A malfunctioning EGR valve can cause the engine to idle irregularly. ♦️ One time I took the EGR valve off of an engine, I replaced it with a new EGR valve to no avail. So after that I took off the EGR valve and I put a flat metal plate over the hole and reinstalled the EGR valve. After that it was completely fixed. To this day I still cannot figure what happened there! 7. Then there are the PCM and the ECM. Us older people refer to those as the computer or the brain. The fundamental distinction between the two is that the ECM regulates and sends orders to particular areas of the engine. In recent models, the PCM controls practically all engine functions. However, there is a narrow line that separates the two. Most people, even automotive professionals, mistake the two. The ECM and PCM govern engine operations that must work together to burn fuel effectively. When the engine stumbles, coughs, or stalls, it may be due to the PCM or ECM failing to regulate the fuel mixture or the firing of ignition components 8. Then last but not least is the electrical system. It could be faulty wiring anywhere on the engine that runs to any controlling component of the engine. ♦️🩺🔧🪛⛑️ My mechanics instructor when I went to vocational School once said: "Being a mechanic is just like being a doctor. You must be able to diagnose the problem before it can be fixed ❗" 🔨⚒️🛠️ If I have ever heard a true impacting statement that was it ❗ It's important to have a qualified mechanic diagnose the issue to determine the exact cause and recommend the appropriate repair. 🥺 After all, they've got the fancy computers and electrical equipment that we just don't have........
Thank you papaw, my wife's truck that she loves was saved because of this video. We have been chasing this problem for a long time and the ICM was our problem!
I installed a 1990 4.9 into my 79 f150, converted the intake to a carb and set a 54 one barrel carb on it and set a point distributor in it, runs like a haint. Installed a 5 speed hydraulic slave trans in it from the 90 f150. cut and redid the pedal to push the slave. pro job.
I've done similar things. I pulled a 235 six cylinder out of 68 GMC and replaced with a 350 v-8 Malibu, pulled out a 3speed and replaced with a Vega fully synchronize 3 speed, shorten the clutch rod took two transmission splines to make one, U Joints was two different types with retaining clips on inside on one end and retaining clips on outside on the other end. ☺️ It all worked out.... 👍
What is the correct part number for an ignition control module for a 1995 4.9l f150? Because they always sell the wrong part number and the people at the store don’t really know either
Sorry I haven't responded to some of your questions. For some reason I'm not getting any notification about responses to my videos and I'm seeing so many from months ago I figured it was too late to get back with you guys. Again sorry about that.
Seen this video before if you have a hard start rough idle and chuggy acceleration or break up like your running out of fuel it could be the vacuum can (aka coffee can) other fender well i changed everything wire harness computers injectors fuel system even a full engine rebuild and truck ran same as when it all started 2 yes ago and found I had a huge n very quiet vacuum leak I putt a plastic round vacume ball on and this 300 is has some serious power now its all fresh n correct so jst saying for anyone having trouble and can't figure it out after replacing expensive sensors check that can mine had Swiss cheese out rite under the mounting part couldn't see it now im 8000 in under hood after missing this but its pretty everything got painted while apart
I forgot about this. I have a 1991 f150 that I mastered and it runs great. But I bought same exact 4.9 manual trans. was running awesome but after emissions test it started running really bad. Barely can make it to 60-65 mph and will stall when I get off freeway. Replaced all sensors except for ICM, and haven't replaced vacuum canister
I dont have a tach. I think the previous owner put in a junkyard dash/display. Is it suppose to have a tach? I also deleted the smog system. Maybe that's the issue. I've been told egr delete wont make it run bad, it just puts exhaust into the intake. I'm still hunting down issues with mine.
If you don't block off the EGR it will suck air into the system and cause your vehicle to run very bad. You can take your EGR off and put a flat tin or metal plate over the hole and then reinstall the EGR that will effectively block off the EGR. You can also buy a over the counter tachometer.
🤔 Here's another thought: Many people, including professionals, get confused by all the acronyms used in automobile mechanics. A PCM or powertrain control module is different from an ECM or engine or electronic control module, even though most people believe the two are the same. Most modern or newer models only have a PCM, which controls all the engine functions, where the ECM only controlled certain parts of the engine. ECM Some of older automobile models had two computers, the ECM and the TCM. The ECM controlled the engine function, but the transmission was controlled by a different computer system called the transmission control module, or TCM. The ECM was also used with vehicles that operated with a manual transmission because there was no need for a computer to operate the transmission functions. PCM The PCM is the main computer in the automobile that controls all the functions of the vehicle. Everything from the vehicle's timing to the proper flow of fuel into the fuel injection system is under the control of the PCM. Along with the engine functions, the PCM controls the functions of the automatic transmission, such as automatic shifting when vehicle is accelerated or downshifting when the vehicle slows down. The PCM does not have as much control of a manual transmission. 🔧 🩺 I hope this clarifies the situation a little about the old term "COMPUTERS" LOL.... 😀 🤖 💻
Kind sir would you be willing to film or sending me a message showing how your vacuum lines and EGR lines are connected? My truck has been worked on and I'm not sure the lines are connected correctly and I can't seem to find that information anywhere. I would very much appreciate it!!!
@@heroooo9684 I replaced all my vacuum lines, I have diagrams but you'll probably need to PM me somehow. I found my hesitation problem was because my EGR valve would open too much and the truck runs lean. I ended up cutting a restriction plate and drill 2 ⅛" holes to limit the amount of gases recirculating my system and it improved a lot! Now I know if the truck starts "chugging" again I just step on the throttle and the problem goes away. I found this out by switching the vacuum lines on the canister, I ended up with a Check Engine Light but the truck ran perfectly. I found the EGR starts opening up when the engine temperature reaches 150 degrees F. Hope this helps!
Could be a week coil or a bad distributor cap or even a bad distributor. My distributor went bad on this truck and found the brass bushings on the distributor were bad and it caused the truck to quit intermittently. It was as of the key was turned off.
@@changingtimes37766 I changed everything to do with this problem. Just changed the distributor out and got it back in time today. Time will tell if this fixes my stalling problem. Next thing on the list is MAF and Throttle body. It still has a small miss and tack fluctuating sometimes. I've been chasing this problem for months.
This device is my last component to replace. On mine it's on the distributor. It runs so crappy apon start up. Once it's good and hot it runs close to perfect
Had to change the whole distributor. The bushing was gone in the distributor and it was making it erratic on the timing and everything. The main reason I replaced the distributor is because of the bushing. Also, don't forget you have to reset the timing with a timing light. Never adjust the timing by hand always use a timing light. If the valves are rattling when you pull a hill you have the timing advanced too much. Also if it has no power when pulling a hill you have the timing retarded too much. That's why you need a timing light.
@@changingtimes37766 I have a 96 F150 4.9 and it only misfires at idle. it responds well when you give it gas but at idle sounds like it is struggling.
Correct: the distributor-mounted position for the ICM is a very bad place, since the heat radiating from the engine slowly cooks their delicate electrical internals, that's why Ford's design evolved and situated them far away, on the driver-side inner fender, directly below the hood spring-hinge and cruise control servo, etc. If you have the dist-mounted ICM, you should def carry a correct* spare in your glovebox, as it WILL burn out on you when you least need it to, and leave you stranded somewhere. Carry a spare along with a narrow-tip deepwell 7/32" socket for the two especially small & difficult-to-reach screws that keep the ICM fastened inside its little heatsink, and you'll be able to get yourself back up and running from the roadside in the same amount of time it takes some to eat 1-and-a-half marshmallow Peeps chicks. lol *I say correct because it is very easy to order the wrong ICM: there are two styles, and then 2 colors, so four total options. If yours is a '90, it's probably the gray one, with the 3 metal teeth along the top, since it plugs into your distributor['s P.I.P. sensor]. For example, my '96 takes the exact opposite ICM: the black one, without any metal tabs on top, since it's mounted over on driver side fender. Color is definitely important; I spent several hours today researching, and now understand they are not interchangeable/ will cause minor issues if wrongly mixed up. Consult your wiring diagram or do extended research to confirm what color ICM your exact truck needs, but I've heard that '93 and earlier takes the gray, whereas '94 and later takes the black.
Mine idles from 500 to around 1200 rpm. Did it fix your issue. I replaced egr valve. Purge valve. Throttle position sensor and idle control valve. And no luck. Mine is also a 5.0
There are so many things that could be causing the problem. Get someone to read the code and it may give you an answer. The distributor bushings were bad for wearing out on the 1995's also. A code reader may be the best way to diagnose it.
Got something funny to tell you put all new parts ICM and top of the line coil pack Accel on my 4.9 would not crank put the old Parts back on it and it cranked and ran now after it warms up it starts running rough go figure anybody can help thanks
Get a code scanner made for your vehicle. Or take it to a good mechanic and let him read the code. It sounds like a wiring issue or it could be an air leak somewhere. Even on the automatic transmissions there is a wiring that can affect the performance and running abilities. Without a code reader it may be impossible to find the problem.
ECM engine control module. The PCM is Power train Control Module this is the computer more or less. The ECM is not the same thing. The PCM is found on the firewall the ECM is found on the fender. *Also I worn out bushing on the distributor can cause similar problems, but you would need a good mechanic with a good computer to find that out.
Hi, I have a 4.9L straight 6 and my truck vibrates and makes a creeky sound occasionally but not all time also sounds like air flow is louder, like shoooooo air, if you know what I mean, Vern. What do you think it could be? Any suggestion is appreciated and your truck sounds like a solid horse.
It could be many things, you could have an air leak, the vibration could be a broke motor mount and if you're driving it down the road it could be a worn out universal joint. The creaky sound could be worn shocks or bushings. There are so many variables.
They're really not that expensive. It depends on your truck make and model. It's called "Electronic Ignition Control Module". Don't call it "" ENGINE". * ( The parts store will think you're talking about the computer.) Call it "IGNITION module", it controls the fire to the coil and or distributor, and evidently has an effect on other things such as the tachometer.
He just put a really expensive bandaid on it! That will only temp fix the problem! Once the new icm adjusts the problem will start again! I bet it started failing again after 3 months
There could be several possible causes for a 1990's Ford pickup truck to idle with erratic RPMs.
⬇️ Here are a few possibilities:
1. Vacuum leaks: A vacuum leak can occur when there is an air leak in the engine's intake manifold or hoses. This can cause the engine to idle irregularly.
2. Faulty idle control valve: The idle control valve controls the engine's idle speed. A faulty or dirty idle control valve can cause the engine to idle erratically.
3. Dirty or clogged air filter: A dirty or clogged air filter can restrict airflow to the engine, causing it to idle irregularly.
4. Malfunctioning throttle position sensor: The throttle position sensor monitors the position of the throttle and sends signals to the engine control module. A malfunctioning sensor can cause the engine to idle irregularly.
5. Faulty fuel injectors: Fuel injectors spray fuel into the engine's combustion chamber. If a fuel injector is faulty or clogged, it can cause the engine to idle irregularly.
6. Malfunctioning EGR valve: The EGR valve recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine to reduce emissions. A malfunctioning EGR valve can cause the engine to idle irregularly.
♦️ One time I took the EGR valve off of an engine, I replaced it with a new EGR valve to no avail. So after that I took off the EGR valve and I put a flat metal plate over the hole and reinstalled the EGR valve. After that it was completely fixed. To this day I still cannot figure what happened there!
7. Then there are the PCM and the ECM. Us older people refer to those as the computer or the brain.
The fundamental distinction between the two is that the ECM regulates and sends orders to particular areas of the engine. In recent models, the PCM controls practically all engine functions. However, there is a narrow line that separates the two. Most people, even automotive professionals, mistake the two.
The ECM and PCM govern engine operations that must work together to burn fuel effectively. When the engine stumbles, coughs, or stalls, it may be due to the PCM or ECM failing to regulate the fuel mixture or the firing of ignition components
8. Then last but not least is the electrical system. It could be faulty wiring anywhere on the engine that runs to any controlling component of the engine.
♦️🩺🔧🪛⛑️ My mechanics instructor when I went to vocational School once said:
"Being a mechanic is just like being a doctor. You must be able to diagnose the problem before it can be fixed ❗"
🔨⚒️🛠️ If I have ever heard a true impacting statement that was it ❗
It's important to have a qualified mechanic diagnose the issue to determine the exact cause and recommend the appropriate repair.
🥺 After all, they've got the fancy computers and electrical equipment that we just don't have........
don't forget the air intake sensor and coolant temperature sensor
Thank you papaw, my wife's truck that she loves was saved because of this video. We have been chasing this problem for a long time and the ICM was our problem!
Can't beat the old 4.9. I'm subscribed
Thank you for the video , I also own a 95 4.9 . All videos help.
I installed a 1990 4.9 into my 79 f150, converted the intake to a carb and set a 54 one barrel carb on it and set a point distributor in it, runs like a haint. Installed a 5 speed hydraulic slave trans in it from the 90 f150. cut and redid the pedal to push the slave. pro job.
I've done similar things. I pulled a 235 six cylinder out of 68 GMC and replaced with a 350 v-8 Malibu, pulled out a 3speed and replaced with a Vega fully synchronize 3 speed, shorten the clutch rod took two transmission splines to make one, U Joints was two different types with retaining clips on inside on one end and retaining clips on outside on the other end. ☺️ It all worked out.... 👍
Hi Kenneth, thank you.
Thanks a ton! Great color on that truck
Best engine made, still driving my 93 manual. Having issues w my dash cluster, sometimes I know how fast I'm going sometimes 🤷😂
Had a similar problem on my 95 4.9..turned out to be a bad pickup sensor in the distributor
What is the correct part number for an ignition control module for a 1995 4.9l f150? Because they always sell the wrong part number and the people at the store don’t really know either
Lol thanks for having us told timer. God bless
Sorry I haven't responded to some of your questions. For some reason I'm not getting any notification about responses to my videos and I'm seeing so many from months ago I figured it was too late to get back with you guys.
Again sorry about that.
Seen this video before if you have a hard start rough idle and chuggy acceleration or break up like your running out of fuel it could be the vacuum can (aka coffee can) other fender well i changed everything wire harness computers injectors fuel system even a full engine rebuild and truck ran same as when it all started 2 yes ago and found I had a huge n very quiet vacuum leak I putt a plastic round vacume ball on and this 300 is has some serious power now its all fresh n correct so jst saying for anyone having trouble and can't figure it out after replacing expensive sensors check that can mine had Swiss cheese out rite under the mounting part couldn't see it now im 8000 in under hood after missing this but its pretty everything got painted while apart
I forgot about this. I have a 1991 f150 that I mastered and it runs great. But I bought same exact 4.9 manual trans. was running awesome but after emissions test it started running really bad. Barely can make it to 60-65 mph and will stall when I get off freeway. Replaced all sensors except for ICM, and haven't replaced vacuum canister
Where was the vacuum leak
Thanks for the info, I've tried everything but that. Hope it works.
It did help. Thank you kind sir!
Hope this helped someone!
Dude this helped me out 100%
the older ones are on the distributor, keep a spare in the glove box!
Nice truck
At the end of the video I said:
"Electronic Engine Control Module"
? ? ? ? ? ?
I meant to say:
" Electronic Ignition Control Module ".
NOT "engine"!
Outstanding, same as mine and I love it
I dont have a tach. I think the previous owner put in a junkyard dash/display. Is it suppose to have a tach?
I also deleted the smog system. Maybe that's the issue. I've been told egr delete wont make it run bad, it just puts exhaust into the intake. I'm still hunting down issues with mine.
If you don't block off the EGR it will suck air into the system and cause your vehicle to run very bad. You can take your EGR off and put a flat tin or metal plate over the hole and then reinstall the EGR that will effectively block off the EGR. You can also buy a over the counter tachometer.
🤔
Here's another thought:
Many people, including professionals, get confused by all the acronyms used in automobile mechanics. A PCM or powertrain control module is different from an ECM or engine or electronic control module, even though most people believe the two are the same. Most modern or newer models only have a PCM, which controls all the engine functions, where the ECM only controlled certain parts of the engine.
ECM
Some of older automobile models had two computers, the ECM and the TCM. The ECM controlled the engine function, but the transmission was controlled by a different computer system called the transmission control module, or TCM. The ECM was also used with vehicles that operated with a manual transmission because there was no need for a computer to operate the transmission functions.
PCM
The PCM is the main computer in the automobile that controls all the functions of the vehicle. Everything from the vehicle's timing to the proper flow of fuel into the fuel injection system is under the control of the PCM. Along with the engine functions, the PCM controls the functions of the automatic transmission, such as automatic shifting when vehicle is accelerated or downshifting when the vehicle slows down. The PCM does not have as much control of a manual transmission.
🔧 🩺 I hope this clarifies the situation a little about the old term "COMPUTERS" LOL.... 😀 🤖 💻
Yes I just learned something new, thanks brother!!
Kind sir would you be willing to film or sending me a message showing how your vacuum lines and EGR lines are connected? My truck has been worked on and I'm not sure the lines are connected correctly and I can't seem to find that information anywhere. I would very much appreciate it!!!
😮 hey i have the same problem, do You have a solution? I need help
@@heroooo9684 I replaced all my vacuum lines, I have diagrams but you'll probably need to PM me somehow. I found my hesitation problem was because my EGR valve would open too much and the truck runs lean. I ended up cutting a restriction plate and drill 2 ⅛" holes to limit the amount of gases recirculating my system and it improved a lot! Now I know if the truck starts "chugging" again I just step on the throttle and the problem goes away. I found this out by switching the vacuum lines on the canister, I ended up with a Check Engine Light but the truck ran perfectly. I found the EGR starts opening up when the engine temperature reaches 150 degrees F. Hope this helps!
I've replaced mine ran good for a while and has started doing the same thing again not sure if bad module or something else
Could be a week coil or a bad distributor cap or even a bad distributor. My distributor went bad on this truck and found the brass bushings on the distributor were bad and it caused the truck to quit intermittently. It was as of the key was turned off.
@@changingtimes37766 I changed everything to do with this problem. Just changed the distributor out and got it back in time today. Time will tell if this fixes my stalling problem. Next thing on the list is MAF and Throttle body. It still has a small miss and tack fluctuating sometimes. I've been chasing this problem for months.
Lots of belt and belt component noise! CHEERS from here!
Thank you sir
yea. replaced that on my 96. .. still does it. about to drop in a new hei distributor.. fingers crossed
You figure the problem out? 96 myself. They got more stuff.
This device is my last component to replace. On mine it's on the distributor. It runs so crappy apon start up. Once it's good and hot it runs close to perfect
Did you have any luck?
@@0UT3RL1M1T5 it need up being a commination of the EGR vent tube from the header being unconnected and barely touching
Thx Ken
It’s on the distributor on my 1990 f250 351w. They are prone to having problems
Did you have to change the whole distributor or just the cap?
Had to change the whole distributor. The bushing was gone in the distributor and it was making it erratic on the timing and everything. The main reason I replaced the distributor is because of the bushing. Also, don't forget you have to reset the timing with a timing light. Never adjust the timing by hand always use a timing light. If the valves are rattling when you pull a hill you have the timing advanced too much. Also if it has no power when pulling a hill you have the timing retarded too much. That's why you need a timing light.
@@changingtimes37766 I have a 96 F150 4.9 and it only misfires at idle. it responds well when you give it gas but at idle sounds like it is struggling.
@@Vstyle13 lots of variables. Get a good mechanic to hook it up to a good tester.
Correct: the distributor-mounted position for the ICM is a very bad place, since the heat radiating from the engine slowly cooks their delicate electrical internals, that's why Ford's design evolved and situated them far away, on the driver-side inner fender, directly below the hood spring-hinge and cruise control servo, etc. If you have the dist-mounted ICM, you should def carry a correct* spare in your glovebox, as it WILL burn out on you when you least need it to, and leave you stranded somewhere. Carry a spare along with a narrow-tip deepwell 7/32" socket for the two especially small & difficult-to-reach screws that keep the ICM fastened inside its little heatsink, and you'll be able to get yourself back up and running from the roadside in the same amount of time it takes some to eat 1-and-a-half marshmallow Peeps chicks. lol
*I say correct because it is very easy to order the wrong ICM: there are two styles, and then 2 colors, so four total options. If yours is a '90, it's probably the gray one, with the 3 metal teeth along the top, since it plugs into your distributor['s P.I.P. sensor]. For example, my '96 takes the exact opposite ICM: the black one, without any metal tabs on top, since it's mounted over on driver side fender. Color is definitely important; I spent several hours today researching, and now understand they are not interchangeable/ will cause minor issues if wrongly mixed up. Consult your wiring diagram or do extended research to confirm what color ICM your exact truck needs, but I've heard that '93 and earlier takes the gray, whereas '94 and later takes the black.
GREAT HELP
I have a leaking injector. It goes away once the engine is warmed up. But anyway it does the same thing
Careful with the injector. Over time it will destroy pistol ring and thin the oil.
I leaks on the outside and drips on to exhaust. It almost caught on fire one but it slowed down. It will that probably half a day to fix.
Thanks I'm going to try and see what happens
See my other replies on this post.
You’re a handsome man Kenneth.
Jaja💯🤙
This helped thank you
Just put one on my 95 with a 5.0 that was doing the same thing, found that one of the screws had came out so it was not grounding ptoperly
Mine idles from 500 to around 1200 rpm. Did it fix your issue. I replaced egr valve. Purge valve. Throttle position sensor and idle control valve. And no luck. Mine is also a 5.0
Genius! Fixed mine
My ford is kinda hard starting an rough idle it’s kinda hit an miss think this could also be my problem?
im having the same exact problem. any ideas?
There are so many things that could be causing the problem. Get someone to read the code and it may give you an answer. The distributor bushings were bad for wearing out on the 1995's also. A code reader may be the best way to diagnose it.
Got something funny to tell you put all new parts ICM and top of the line coil pack Accel on my 4.9 would not crank put the old Parts back on it and it cranked and ran now after it warms up it starts running rough go figure anybody can help thanks
Get a code scanner made for your vehicle. Or take it to a good mechanic and let him read the code. It sounds like a wiring issue or it could be an air leak somewhere. Even on the automatic transmissions there is a wiring that can affect the performance and running abilities. Without a code reader it may be impossible to find the problem.
Hi there do you replace the pcm
ECM engine control module. The PCM is Power train Control Module this is the computer more or less. The ECM is not the same thing. The PCM is found on the firewall the ECM is found on the fender.
*Also I worn out bushing on the distributor can cause similar problems, but you would need a good mechanic with a good computer to find that out.
Hi, I have a 4.9L straight 6 and my truck vibrates and makes a creeky sound occasionally but not all time also sounds like air flow is louder, like shoooooo air, if you know what I mean, Vern. What do you think it could be? Any suggestion is appreciated and your truck sounds like a solid horse.
It could be many things, you could have an air leak, the vibration could be a broke motor mount and if you're driving it down the road it could be a worn out universal joint. The creaky sound could be worn shocks or bushings. There are so many variables.
What color is your ICM? I know they make two type,, one black and the other is gray? Good informative video.
93 was the last year for gray. 94 and up is black
@@austinepperson3576
Awesome, thank you
Thank you man. Really helped.
How much did you pay for that electronic engine control module?
They're really not that expensive. It depends on your truck make and model. It's called "Electronic Ignition Control Module".
Don't call it "" ENGINE".
* ( The parts store will think you're talking about the computer.)
Call it "IGNITION module", it controls the fire to the coil and or distributor, and evidently has an effect on other things such as the tachometer.
On my 92 f250 351 it was the ground wire got the hole truck for 1k the previous owner had rebuilt the engine and still couldn't figure it out
What ground wire? I’ve tried everything and can’t fix my 91
Hah that's the guy from the old guy awkward smile memes
286k on mine
No tach onine
He just put a really expensive bandaid on it! That will only temp fix the problem! Once the new icm adjusts the problem will start again! I bet it started failing again after 3 months
@@MartinRodriguez-ts3jq everything I did worked. I've had no more problems. You just lost your bet . We're still driving it today.