10. Create a Narrowband Image
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2024
- In this week's video I'll show you how to create a narrowband image in the Hubble Palette. We can take a set of Hydrogen Alpha, Sulfur, and Oxygen photos and combine them to create a unique color photo.
Another great video Peter. I really appreciate how you demystify the post processing operation.
Excellent video. I love narrowband too. Its amazing what I can gather with it vs the old OSC.
Hi Peter, in general I really like your work. Most of your videos are quite informative & useful. I think some of your statements in this particular video might be a little confusing for some viewers. The Hubble Palette is NOT an arbitrary assignment of colors. We humans have Red, Green & Blue sensitive cone cells in our eyes. The Hubble Pallet maps SII to red because it is the longest wavelength in SHO (sulfur/hydrogen/oxygen imaging), just like red is the longest wavelength we can see. OIII, the shortest wavelength in SHO imaging, gets mapped to blue because our blue cones are our shortest wavelength sensitive cones. (OIII is actually cyan colored in real life.) H alpha gets mapped to green because its wavelength falls between SII & OIII (our green cones are our middle wavelength sensitive cones). By the way, Hydrogen alpha tends to dominate most emission nebulas. This can cause SHO images to be dominated by green. Your image appears somewhat green. "Hasta La Vista Green" is a free photoshop plugin useful for eliminating the excess green hue.
Thanks for this great video. The High Pass tool is great. I have been able to improve some of my previous images obtained with a DSLR. Great tip.
Great tutorial, i really enjoy your videos! I'm currently limited to RGB with my DSLR but I'm looking to get a mono camera to start working with narrowband images soon so this video has been really useful to get an understanding of how to post-process with narrowband. One tip I found out from general photography post processing regarding the high pass filter is that you can control the sharpness applied by the high pass filter by using a hidden slider setting!
After hitting ctrl,shift,alt and E to create the new layer go to 'Filter' then 'Convert for Smart Filters' and hit ok. Then go back to 'Filter' and apply the high pass and overlay blending mode to the layer just the same as you did in your tutorial. Then making sure the high pass layer is selected go to Image, Adjustments, Brightness/Contrast. Tick 'Use Legacy' (very important so that it works) and then you can use the contrast slider to control the sharpness of the high pass filter!
I hope this tip helps :)
Awesome series Peter! I'm most likely going to pick up an ASI 533MC Pro, ASI Air Pro, a 120MM Mini and their electronic auto focus. I currently have a different auto focus system and guide camera but the ASI Air doesn't work with them... Keep the videos coming!
Love your videos! About the highpass filter: I've used this in "normal" photography and then you always desaturate that layer before applying the highpass filter to avoid weird colors and only target the sharpness. After that you use the overlay blending mode just as in your video.
Give it a try! 😊
Just getting my feet wet with narrowband processing. I captured some decent data on several objects last fall but just Ha and Oii. I hoped to do bicolor. I assume I can use your process by mapping two channels and experimenting with the color sliders. I can't wait to try it. Thanks for the DSS tip about keeping one alignment frame. I wasn't aware of that. Can't wait to try that too. I had alignment issues because I captured data on different nights. Awesome resource. I subscribed. 👍
It would be better to start by reducing the noise in each image/layer first and then go ahead with the rest of processing. If you do not get rid of some noise initially, it will only keep increasing with each step.
Thank you for the video! It is not that complicated, the only thing that I am confused with the PS is that there are several ways of acquiring the same/nearly the same result, not sure which option to select, maybe one should select the one he likes most. My first SHO narrowband image was processed according to your tutorial. It was Witch's Broom.
Wow. I am very impressed and I really want to delve deeper into astrophotography. Thanks!
very cool final photo Peter, though the green looked very cool as well. Just so I can begin to wrap my head around this, the colors are not what the true nebulae looks like, correct.? This is where the artistic license comes into play, making it look any way your heart desires? Thank you
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing!
Super cool 👌🔭
very cool images
That high pass filter/overlay looks a lot like unsharp masking. Is there an advantage of one over the other? Awesome video, as always. Thank you so much!
Do you have a video that shows how you captured these pics? I have a RedCat and asi120 and want to try if possible. Great videos!!!
With narrow band should you add the lumance filter also?
Hi Peter, did you use a mono or one shot colour for this tutorial. I am trying to get info on using these filters with a one shot colour? Thanks
Hey Peter, what are your thoughts about clip-in narrow band filters for DSLR/Mirriorless cameras?
I don't have any experience with those yet, so I can't say. I am planning on getting something like that at some point this year though.
@@PeterZelinka Thanks for the reply, can't wait until then!
Great Work!
What do you think of Siril?
I see it on your desktop.
I tried it, but the interface was too confusing to get a hang of it. I need to spend more time learning the application before I can give any real review on it.
@@PeterZelinka Well if you do I am quite interested in the planetary image stacking aspect of it. I myself have been trying to decipher how to use it.
Thanks! Do you only register the Oxygen and Sulfur images or do you apply the dark and bias frames too as with the Hydrogen images?
You want to do the same process with each filter, in this case you'd want to apply your darks, flats, and bias to each stack of photos
Peter Zelinka 2 questions. 1: do you apply the same set of calibration frames to all of your light frame sets? 2: if so, does it matter which filter is in place when you capture your calibration frame data (i’m assuming this wouldn’t matter for dark or biased frames but what about for flat frames)?
@@sohammer you've got it! Same darks and bias (provided you don't change the gain or exposure time between filters). But you'd want a set of flats for each filter, because there will be different dust patterns on each filter
@@PeterZelinka Awesome. And thank you so much for all these tutorials. Always been interested in doing astrophotography but having to learn everything from scratch seemed overwhelming. Really appreciate you demystifying the whole process.
Super!
A green "rosette" nebula? XD Nice vid and pic tho!
Hi Peter, thanks for the great videos so far; I'm loving this series!
Would you consider making your data available for download so that we can follow along with your workflow? I am yet to invest in a mono camera but would love to get experience editing the files before I do so!
can anyone guide why we change from 16bit to 8bit before saving JPG?
Just to make sure you don't run into any compatibility issues on devices, and you can see how large the file will be before saving it in Photoshop
Peter Zelinka thanks a lot for your reply, I've never used this step earlier. I'll add this going forward
The best artistic way, is the realistic way, in my opinion.I don't see the point in coloring a nebula in an unrealistic manner.
It's about separation of elements. Sulphur and Hydrogen are both red on visible spectrum.