DIY damper removel tool for Royal Enfield 650, show you how to make it and use it to remove the damper rods . Then how to drill out damper rods and adjust YSS emulators .
2022 Triumph T100 with similar fork set-up. Had a shop change my fork oil and they stripped out the damping bolt in the bottom of fork, now it leaks oil and won't tighten, won't back out either. Great video thanks, has helped me a bunch.
Hi John, followed your tip on here setting up the cartridges and it's worked really well. 3 holes in the black valve and 1 turn preload on the spring. All the harshness has gone out of the front end and it rides over bumpy roads really well, thanks very much.
@@johnk7814 I had the YSS kit in the forks for the previous 2 years undrilled, the ride was harsh and no improvement at all. I did a lot of research about drilling or not, your video was the one that tipped me over into the drill it camp. As of last week my damper rods now have 4x 8mm holes (that’s from info I found in a YSS information PDF) and your cartridge tuning tips. Thanks again, Martin.
Thanks Ken if your thinking of getting one of these kits do it makes a big difference to how this bike handles. Can take the corners much better than the stock set up.
Thanks for the 28mm 12 point Oak Damper holding tool idea. I need it. I've already installed the YSS kit in the Interceptor 650 with no results because the USA instructions don't mention drilling out the damper holes. It can't work without the holes drilled. The Australian shared instructions covers drilling the holes, it is absolutely necessary to get any results.
@@castleclubclipz Yes, I mean the instructions from YSS. The YSS instructions in the Australian kits have the drill instructions with sizes and photos. Its and easy google search the good Aussies have scanned and shared them. I'd hate to try to tell you the size off of memory.
@@Thinwater Hmm thanks! I’ve been trying to find the online, but no luck… You wouldn’t happen to have the link you could post, would you? Warm regards and thanks for your help!
@@castleclubclipz I've replied twice and find no evidence of it. So here is a try without a link. Go to YSS Australia, support, fork kit adapter, click on the instructions.
Hi John, I just came across your channel & would like to thank you for the information in this video. At the end there, I see some rather neat black handlebars & also a radial master cylinder. What brake upgrades have you done, please? :)
Hey well the bars in the video are LSL street low I believe which at this time are sitting on the work bench I'm tring out another set not that those weren't good they are very comfortable I just wanted to try these 5 piece copy of bars that were on the Italian bike Laverta Jota. The master cylinder is a Brembo RCS 15 very nice had them on there for years now, no other changes to the brakes as of yet. Thinking of getting at Beringer 4pot caliber that woulf fit directly on the fork without any special braket or change to the disc. Cheers John K
@@johnk7814 Thanks for the prompt reply. I intend to go the radial MC route myself, but would like a four pot caliper upgrade too. Do you know if any of the 4 pot Brembos would be suitable? :)
@@captainklutz3427 I've seen on Facebook guy sells a bracket to mount a 4 pot brembo but you have to change the disc as well don't remember which Royal Enfield group I saw it on or which model caliper it was.
@@johnk7814 Thanks, John. Yes, I saw that thread. It was on the Hitchcock's forum. I am hoping for a straight swap out, but have yet to find anything suitable & affordable. :0/
I simply drilled out the 2 3mm holes to 8mm. I notice the valve has a 3mm hole without the valve activating. Certain both holes will defeat the existing damper. I'd be interested to know your thought after doing the full monty. I have yet to install my kit.
I also drilled out the original holes only to 6mm and put it back together, but I didn't think it was enough but don't believe I messed with the emulator at all at that time. I watched many video's on installing emulators but the all seemed to drill 4 additional holes into the damper rod. So I took them back out and added the 4 more to each. Then began making adjustments to the emulator till I got to a point where I liked it. But give it a try if you want to you can always take them back out. Here are some video's on emulators first is the guy who invented them last is someone who put YSS emulators only into his fort and he show's the instructions they say to drill that maney holes. Take care John K. Race Tech ruclips.net/video/j3QYZEQoN_M/видео.html Tech Bike parts ruclips.net/video/Kt1IBxrr27Y/видео.html YSS emulator put in a Himalayan ruclips.net/video/6hcNMrat36w/видео.html
I did complete the task. I’d say the front is no longer as harsh as it was prior to the upgrade. I used a medium weight fork oil. I still need to add a little preload. The dowel idea worked on one fork, the other wouldn’t budge, period. I bit the bullet and for the factory tool, which I discover had a standard right hand thread. I had torque the hell out of it to get it remove the damper. I can’t understand why they have a thread on it to hold it on the t-handle. I bit the bullet on it because the cost to fabricate means it would have exceeded the cost of tool for a welder, which I generally won’t use. The factory has a real problem over torquing bolts on these bikes. Your dowel would certainly work again if the bolts aren’t over-torqued. I had a bolt snap off on the lower triple. What a real pain in ass that was.
@@ijaxon6675 Wow you did certainly had a time with that job. If my wooden tool hadn't work I too would have had to by the factory tool as well. I used a rather large breaker bar on mine to take them out the first time and it was tight for a good 6-7 turns so much lock tight on them. You can always recoup your money on the tool a sell it to somebody on the page for sure. Getting the bolt out of the fork must have really sucked I would have had to walk away and come back later🤬 If I were you I'd take out those bolts in both triples one at a time and put anti siege grease on the threads so that doesn't happen again and note they only require 14.85 foot pounds on all of those bolts. And while your at it I'd greese all the engine case bolts as well sometimes they can get stuck. I just recently changed all the bolts on the cases including the sproket cover with titanium gold anodized one, I greased them with anti siege so they won't get stuck. But glad you were able to complete the job. 👍
@@ijaxon6675 Wow you did have a time with that didn't you😮 I used a very big breaker bar to get that bolt out of the leg the first time,so much lock tight on them. I would have also bought the tool hadn't the home made one work but lucky it did for me. Snapping the bolt off🤬 I would have had to walk away for a while after that. I would put anti siege on those bolt if I were you and tighten then to what they are supposed to be 14.8 foot pounds. Good job on completing the job with the problems you had.👍
@@johnk7814 I committed a rather zealous act of removing one of the two bolts from the lower triple completely before the other. Generally you stagger tightening the bolts to put them on. lIttle or one and then the other. I'd guess the extra torque applied to the single bolt from the lower triple clamp caused it to break. I'd recommend this staggering method to take them off too.
2022 Triumph T100 with similar fork set-up. Had a shop change my fork oil and they stripped out the damping bolt in the bottom of fork, now it leaks oil and won't tighten, won't back out either. Great video thanks, has helped me a bunch.
Hi John, followed your tip on here setting up the cartridges and it's worked really well. 3 holes in the black valve and 1 turn preload on the spring. All the harshness has gone out of the front end and it rides over bumpy roads really well, thanks very much.
Glad the video helped you did you drill out the damper rods as well or just made adjustments to the emulator.🙂
@@johnk7814 I had the YSS kit in the forks for the previous 2 years undrilled, the ride was harsh and no improvement at all. I did a lot of research about drilling or not, your video was the one that tipped me over into the drill it camp. As of last week my damper rods now have 4x 8mm holes (that’s from info I found in a YSS information PDF) and your cartridge tuning tips. Thanks again, Martin.
Great video John, you made it look so easy, best video I've seen for installing yss kit,🙂🏍👍🇬🇧
Thanks Ken if your thinking of getting one of these kits do it makes a big difference to how this bike handles. Can take the corners much better than the stock set up.
Thanks for the 28mm 12 point Oak Damper holding tool idea. I need it. I've already installed the YSS kit in the Interceptor 650 with no results because the USA instructions don't mention drilling out the damper holes. It can't work without the holes drilled. The Australian shared instructions covers drilling the holes, it is absolutely necessary to get any results.
Do you mean instructions from YSS? How many holes and what sizes do they advise?
@@castleclubclipz Yes, I mean the instructions from YSS. The YSS instructions in the Australian kits have the drill instructions with sizes and photos. Its and easy google search the good Aussies have scanned and shared them. I'd hate to try to tell you the size off of memory.
@@Thinwater Hmm thanks! I’ve been trying to find the online, but no luck… You wouldn’t happen to have the link you could post, would you?
Warm regards and thanks for your help!
@@castleclubclipz I've replied twice and find no evidence of it. So here is a try without a link. Go to YSS Australia, support, fork kit adapter, click on the instructions.
Genius.
Hi John, I just came across your channel & would like to thank you for the information in this video. At the end there, I see some rather neat black handlebars & also a radial master cylinder. What brake upgrades have you done, please? :)
Hey well the bars in the video are LSL street low I believe which at this time are sitting on the work bench I'm tring out another set not that those weren't good they are very comfortable I just wanted to try these 5 piece copy of bars that were on the Italian bike Laverta Jota. The master cylinder is a Brembo RCS 15 very nice had them on there for years now, no other changes to the brakes as of yet. Thinking of getting at Beringer 4pot caliber that woulf fit directly on the fork without any special braket or change to the disc. Cheers John K
@@johnk7814 Thanks for the prompt reply. I intend to go the radial MC route myself, but would like a four pot caliper upgrade too. Do you know if any of the 4 pot Brembos would be suitable? :)
@@captainklutz3427 I've seen on Facebook guy sells a bracket to mount a 4 pot brembo but you have to change the disc as well don't remember which Royal Enfield group I saw it on or which model caliper it was.
@@johnk7814 Thanks, John. Yes, I saw that thread. It was on the Hitchcock's forum. I am hoping for a straight swap out, but have yet to find anything suitable & affordable. :0/
Great video thanx for sharing!
I simply drilled out the 2 3mm holes to 8mm. I notice the valve has a 3mm hole without the valve activating. Certain both holes will defeat the existing damper. I'd be interested to know your thought after doing the full monty. I have yet to install my kit.
I also drilled out the original holes only to 6mm and put it back together, but I didn't think it was enough but don't believe I messed with the emulator at all at that time. I watched many video's on installing emulators but the all seemed to drill 4 additional holes into the damper rod. So I took them back out and added the 4 more to each. Then began making adjustments to the emulator till I got to a point where I liked it. But give it a try if you want to you can always take them back out. Here are some video's on emulators first is the guy who invented them last is someone who put YSS emulators only into his fort and he show's the instructions they say to drill that maney holes. Take care John K.
Race Tech ruclips.net/video/j3QYZEQoN_M/видео.html
Tech Bike parts ruclips.net/video/Kt1IBxrr27Y/видео.html
YSS emulator put in a Himalayan ruclips.net/video/6hcNMrat36w/видео.html
I did complete the task. I’d say the front is no longer as harsh as it was prior to the upgrade. I used a medium weight fork oil. I still need to add a little preload. The dowel idea worked on one fork, the other wouldn’t budge, period. I bit the bullet and for the factory tool, which I discover had a standard right hand thread. I had torque the hell out of it to get it remove the damper. I can’t understand why they have a thread on it to hold it on the t-handle. I bit the bullet on it because the cost to fabricate means it would have exceeded the cost of tool for a welder, which I generally won’t use. The factory has a real problem over torquing bolts on these bikes. Your dowel would certainly work again if the bolts aren’t over-torqued. I had a bolt snap off on the lower triple. What a real pain in ass that was.
@@ijaxon6675 Wow you did certainly had a time with that job. If my wooden tool hadn't work I too would have had to by the factory tool as well. I used a rather large breaker bar on mine to take them out the first time and it was tight for a good 6-7 turns so much lock tight on them. You can always recoup your money on the tool a sell it to somebody on the page for sure. Getting the bolt out of the fork must have really sucked I would have had to walk away and come back later🤬 If I were you I'd take out those bolts in both triples one at a time and put anti siege grease on the threads so that doesn't happen again and note they only require 14.85 foot pounds on all of those bolts. And while your at it I'd greese all the engine case bolts as well sometimes they can get stuck. I just recently changed all the bolts on the cases including the sproket cover with titanium gold anodized one, I greased them with anti siege so they won't get stuck. But glad you were able to complete the job. 👍
@@ijaxon6675 Wow you did have a time with that didn't you😮 I used a very big breaker bar to get that bolt out of the leg the first time,so much lock tight on them. I would have also bought the tool hadn't the home made one work but lucky it did for me. Snapping the bolt off🤬 I would have had to walk away for a while after that. I would put anti siege on those bolt if I were you and tighten then to what they are supposed to be 14.8 foot pounds. Good job on completing the job with the problems you had.👍
@@johnk7814 I committed a rather zealous act of removing one of the two bolts from the lower triple completely before the other.
Generally you stagger tightening the bolts to put them on. lIttle or one and then the other. I'd guess the extra torque applied to the single bolt from the lower triple clamp caused it to break. I'd recommend this staggering method to take them off too.