The ZWO website indicates the M48 plate is provided with the OAG-L. The M54 and M42 plates must be purchased separately. ??? The ZWO backspace diagram indicates the tilt plate on the 2600 has to be removed - as well or you will be 5mm over the 55mm backfocus requirement on most OTA's. Is the backfocuse for you OTA different?K The reason I'm asking these questions is I have an Esprit 100ED and I'm considering upgrading to the OAG-L and EFW. I had tried the regular OAG and it did not turn out well. Stem was almost too short to get guide camera in focus and there was significant offcenter vignetting, so I returned the OAG and went back to a guide scope. The OAG-L looks like it might address the issues with the OAG, but also looking at the QHY OAG-M or L.
Clayton, correct you remove the plate from the 2600M, and then rest goes hand and hand. Here is more info on the put together to reach 55mm astronomy-imaging-camera.com/tutorials/asi2600-guide-4-connection-methods-to-get-55mm-back-focus-length.html
I'm using an ASI 294 MM Pro with 8 position filter wheel and the small ZWO off axis guider and I'm also experiencing severe vignetting in the corners. Any idea why this is happening?
@@hypersphereengineering6015 hard to say what is causing this as I don't know the telescope and how you have everything mounted. Here is some info from cloudynights that may help. www.cloudynights.com/topic/561134-vignetting-with-focal-reducer/
@@JTAstro I have 2 scopes. Astro Physics 130GTX without a flattener at the moment and a Takahashi FSQ106N. I'm currently imaging with the Takahashi. It has a built in Field flattener that doesn't require specific back focus distance because the focuser operates independently of the flattener. This makes life easier. I had a feeling that the camera , filter wheel and OAG were too far away from the flattener due to the focuser drawtube distance. To prove this I removed the filter wheel so the camera was a bit closer and the vignetting is less. If I can move the imaging train closer to the visual back I might be able to eradicate the problem.
Hi Joey, I think the allen type screws came with the OAG L, and the phillips with the filter wheel (they are used to join the wheel with the camera). I hope you are enjoying this magnificent equipment. Thanks for your video!
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Just found your channel. Enjoying your videos.
Glad you are enjoying!
Interesting, my m48 tilt plate came with my OAG-L.
Yeah I found it finally, so have two M48 plates 😂
The ZWO website indicates the M48 plate is provided with the OAG-L. The M54 and M42 plates must be purchased separately. ???
The ZWO backspace diagram indicates the tilt plate on the 2600 has to be removed - as well or you will be 5mm over the 55mm backfocus requirement on most OTA's. Is the backfocuse for you OTA different?K
The reason I'm asking these questions is I have an Esprit 100ED and I'm considering upgrading to the OAG-L and EFW. I had tried the regular OAG and it did not turn out well. Stem was almost too short to get guide camera in focus and there was significant offcenter vignetting, so I returned the OAG and went back to a guide scope. The OAG-L looks like it might address the issues with the OAG, but also looking at the QHY OAG-M or L.
Clayton, correct you remove the plate from the 2600M, and then rest goes hand and hand. Here is more info on the put together to reach 55mm astronomy-imaging-camera.com/tutorials/asi2600-guide-4-connection-methods-to-get-55mm-back-focus-length.html
I'm using an ASI 294 MM Pro with 8 position filter wheel and the small ZWO off axis guider and I'm also experiencing severe vignetting in the corners. Any idea why this is happening?
@@hypersphereengineering6015 hard to say what is causing this as I don't know the telescope and how you have everything mounted. Here is some info from cloudynights that may help. www.cloudynights.com/topic/561134-vignetting-with-focal-reducer/
@@JTAstro I have 2 scopes. Astro Physics 130GTX without a flattener at the moment and a Takahashi FSQ106N. I'm currently imaging with the Takahashi. It has a built in Field flattener that doesn't require specific back focus distance because the focuser operates independently of the flattener. This makes life easier. I had a feeling that the camera , filter wheel and OAG were too far away from the flattener due to the focuser drawtube distance. To prove this I removed the filter wheel so the camera was a bit closer and the vignetting is less. If I can move the imaging train closer to the visual back I might be able to eradicate the problem.
I think there is a mistake with the screws you use to join the OAG to the filter wheel. The screws must be allen head and you use the Phillips type.
Could be. With the kit I received they were all Philips possible they moved to Allen so you don't need multiple tools in the field.
Hi Joey, I think the allen type screws came with the OAG L, and the phillips with the filter wheel (they are used to join the wheel with the camera). I hope you are enjoying this magnificent equipment. Thanks for your video!
@@sergiluque2928 of course I am! You can check out more on my blog joeytroy.com has links to my Astrobin as well.