Thanks James. It's very fortuitous that I'm about 2 weeks behind you on this project. The irony of needing a knurling tool to finish the knurling tool was not lost on me.
I think it's less ironic and more intentional. Having one of the final parts needed to complete it use the knurler itself means you get to test it out immediately.
Extremely well done commentary of the processes. Haven't been to your channel for a long time. You have really increased your number of tools and seem to make great use of them.👍👍👍👍👍
The cutter spun up with the draw bar tightening with your hand there and then what looked like you instinctively reached in as if your were going slow down the bottom of the arbor. After seeing that I realized how close you came to getting a serious boo boo and I got a sick feeling. At first I thought you hit the on lever too soon. I am always amazed how quick an injury can occur. Glad you came out unscathed (physically). Did you have to take a break and change your shorts?
From the time you started spinning the lathe it looks like the part is wobbling. Was that intentional as discussed in earlier comments or am I wrong in my understanding or the part is not wobbling?
Hi James. That carbide parting tool looks like an MGMN-200. You can pick up MGGN200 inserts for aluminium from the usual import places. They're already sharp and seem to do a much nicer job on aluminium and steel on my 'smaller' lathe (a Sieg SC4 - I think they call it an 8.5x20).
I noticed your tip-of-the-hat to Blondi Hacks with your comment about chamfers. No complaints, though, now a days, not referencing your source might bring you criticism. Not all of us are "animals." :)
Let me make sure I understand: Quinn isn't offended, you're not offended, and you don't know of anyone else who is offended, but you think there might be someone else who is offended on Quinn's behalf? I think I'll take that risk. :)
@@Clough42 1. I actually enjoyed your comment. 2. Keep taking "risks", I'm not a troll, and despise them. Thanks for the excellent Audio, Video, Editing and Content.
Excellent work as always, and very enjoyable to watch. You have pointed out many times the importance of removing a cutting/threading tool before removing a part. I've had many cuts from small end mills by forgetting that. Maybe have another look at your video where you remove the 2nd arm after threading? 😀
These knurls seem so tiny . What size are they ? My collection of knurls are all 20mm diam and 10mm thick . I doubt that they'de fit a 1/2 wide holder like yours .
I have noticed that any 2 flute endmill doesn't really make a smooth cut unless it's slotting because the tooth always leaves the cut before the other tooth cuts in
I believe the knurls are offset to minimise the clearance needed on the left side of the tool when in use. Useful when knurling up to a shoulder or getting close to the chuck.
You would not want to use a thinner slotting tool. You want to hit it correctly, otherwise the cutter deflects from being unsupported on one side when you try to widen it.
@@benjaminshaw80 oh, sorry, I was thinking computer files. They're sold as lathe files. Just search "Nicholson lathe file". The 10" one I'm using isn't currently available on Amazon, but others are.
Thanks James. It's very fortuitous that I'm about 2 weeks behind you on this project. The irony of needing a knurling tool to finish the knurling tool was not lost on me.
I think it's less ironic and more intentional. Having one of the final parts needed to complete it use the knurler itself means you get to test it out immediately.
Before I attempt to make one I'm going to watch EVERYBODY'S series first.
Inheritance machining is doing the same tool and it's interesting to see how you both approache it
Extremely well done commentary of the processes. Haven't been to your channel for a long time. You have really increased your number of tools and seem to make great use of them.👍👍👍👍👍
The collet block in the 4-jaw was a good call on as far as conserving setups. Very nice!
Looking great! This has been a fun build series to follow along on.
"Sensitive" knurling tool?? It breaks down if you shout at it? Needs special attention?
I never considered its feelings. I should be careful...
Ironically it needs to get a grip.
The cutter spun up with the draw bar tightening with your hand there and then what looked like you instinctively reached in as if your were going slow down the bottom of the arbor. After seeing that I realized how close you came to getting a serious boo boo and I got a sick feeling. At first I thought you hit the on lever too soon. I am always amazed how quick an injury can occur. Glad you came out unscathed (physically). Did you have to take a break and change your shorts?
Injuries can indeed happen quick. In this case, there wasn't any power behind it, and it was in fact running backwards.
From the time you started spinning the lathe it looks like the part is wobbling. Was that intentional as discussed in earlier comments or am I wrong in my understanding or the part is not wobbling?
Hi James. That carbide parting tool looks like an MGMN-200. You can pick up MGGN200 inserts for aluminium from the usual import places. They're already sharp and seem to do a much nicer job on aluminium and steel on my 'smaller' lathe (a Sieg SC4 - I think they call it an 8.5x20).
great job! great narration and videography. Love the CAD modeling, gives great perspective
The reason that chamfers separate us from the animals is that they're cutting edge technology.
I noticed your tip-of-the-hat to Blondi Hacks with your comment about chamfers. No complaints, though, now a days, not referencing your source might bring you criticism. Not all of us are "animals." :)
Let me make sure I understand: Quinn isn't offended, you're not offended, and you don't know of anyone else who is offended, but you think there might be someone else who is offended on Quinn's behalf? I think I'll take that risk. :)
@@Clough42 1. I actually enjoyed your comment. 2. Keep taking "risks", I'm not a troll, and despise them. Thanks for the excellent Audio, Video, Editing and Content.
“we aren’t animals, after all” just earned a comment! 🎉
Enjoyed….nice discussion/build
Great video. It’s so good to pickup new techniques. With a little luck these new techniques will turn into new skills. Thank you.
Oh those animal separating chamfers…😂 7:05
The parts look great, you make it look easy as usual. I guess you're getting popular, so many targeted spam comments 🤣
Yeah. They're getting pretty annoying.
Well done as usual. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for sharing!
Lovely job as ever , I'm still loving the new backdrop. Fannncy.
❤️❤️❤️
Excellent work as always, and very enjoyable to watch. You have pointed out many times the importance of removing a cutting/threading tool before removing a part. I've had many cuts from small end mills by forgetting that. Maybe have another look at your video where you remove the 2nd arm after threading? 😀
These knurls seem so tiny . What size are they ? My collection of knurls are all 20mm diam and 10mm thick .
I doubt that they'de fit a 1/2 wide holder like yours .
nice good job!
I have noticed that any 2 flute endmill doesn't really make a smooth cut unless it's slotting because the tooth always leaves the cut before the other tooth cuts in
Next episode, fitting a sensor to only activate power draw bar when in gear
Nice work!
Great video. Can't wait to see the tool in action.
Homo sapiens sapiens is actually an animal but I think we're the only animal on earth that makes chamfers.
I wouldn't bet on that: Castor sp. does some amazing engineering: I'd call some of the features of a beaver dam and lodge chamfered.
Looking very good so far.
Sorry for lack of knowledge, why are the knurling wheels offset in the arms? (why the last cut you did, isn't centered?)
I believe the knurls are offset to minimise the clearance needed on the left side of the tool when in use. Useful when knurling up to a shoulder or getting close to the chuck.
Yes, any time a lathe tool “leans left” it’s a good guess that it’s to increase its ability to cut close to the spindle.
👍👍😎👍👍
11:28 What is the make and model of your end mill grinder?
Shars D-Bit Grinder. Link in description.
Looks awesome so far, great work!
Thanks James
You would not want to use a thinner slotting tool. You want to hit it correctly, otherwise the cutter deflects from being unsupported on one side when you try to widen it.
In this case, I'm pretty sure the carbide isn't going to deflect. At least not deflect and survive.
@@Clough42 I guess I missed the fact that it is a carbide cutter, all my slot cutters are HSS. I thought the 4" cutter was HSS with a TIN coating.
Dammit! I watched last week’s video and bought a tool. Now I see something else I want.
You aren’t helping!
I watch Tom Lipton and have the same problem.
@@Clough42 same
@@Clough42 have you purchased those optical flats yet ? 🤣
@@HM-Projects not yet :)
@@Clough42 cometh the surface grinder, cometh the lapping discs and optical flats, never ending quest. Looking forward to the videos.
where is the cnc?
Probably in the shed?
What is the significance of Hemingway?
Hemingway sells the kit and plans to build this tool.
@@JeremyYoungDesign Are you in Ernest?
@@wwjjcc418 im sorry I don’t quite understand what you mean?
@@JeremyYoungDesign Sorry, bad pun on Ernest Hemingway the writer. No offense intended.
@@wwjjcc418 oh I’m with you haha
Where did you find the lathe files?
The lathe files?
@@Clough42 yes, the single cut 45deg file. Is that what makes it a “lathe file” or is it sold specifically as a lathe file?
@@benjaminshaw80 oh, sorry, I was thinking computer files. They're sold as lathe files. Just search "Nicholson lathe file". The 10" one I'm using isn't currently available on Amazon, but others are.