Generally it is a good idea to keep both sides of the connectors together when soldering. This helps keep the pins aligned if the plastic retaining the pins melts or gets soft. (Especially a problem with cheap plugs) It is best to keep the amount of heat applied to the pins to a minimum. To do this, don't pre-tin the cups. Do add flux though. Only tin the wires so they can fully fit into the cup. Trim off any solder blobs. This allows you to bottom the wire in the cup before soldering it. This way you can use the helping hands to hold the wire so you don't burn your fingers, keeps the heating of the pins to a minimum, and keeps the wire from moving which can cause a cold solder joint. Then, if needed, add a bit of extra solder to finish the joint.
When it comes to holding the connector. You could keep the plug in the socket and hold it with a wrench while tightening the nut on the back. Keeping the plug in the socket may help keep it from getting crushed while you tighten.
Dude, no no no!!! Only use a pair of small shrink tubing to cover each terminal/wire, don't use 1 big one to shrink down over the pair. the whole point of the tubing is to prevent shorts, and with + - in the same tube if something breaks they could make contact! Oh thank god I see you changed your mind later on. I was about to scream!
Dear Chris: Actually, the RIGHT way to mount aviation connectors, the only way you are sure they won't turn when you screw the cable on, is to mount them on D-shaped holes (better yet: "double D's", with 2 flats so that the 13mm hole is only 11mm between the flats). These holes are almost impossible to machine, unless you punch them with a special punch. BUT, this case is 3D printed, so it would be easy to program the proper holes in the STL file. Unfortunately, goodold Chris Annin didn't do it...
Thankfully he made the project Open Source so that we could all contribute in our own ways. I'm making the videos. You could edit the STL file and add the flats. ;)
@@Physicsduck Yes, I thought about that myself, but I have never edited an STL file. I thought this couldn't be done? I understand these files are the final instructions for the printer, after "slicing" - you would have to have access to the original CAD design files, which I believe weren't released - I think Chris Annin used SolidWorks to design the parts. The SolidWorks files are available, but they aren't free - Chris Annin wants US$99 for them... But I am very new to all this, so I might be wrong... I will try to study futher this subject...
Would it be tighter if the washer was the other side so the nut doesn't slide. Sorry if this is a stupid idea I am not very technical and I'm never sure why they include washers like that or which side they go on.
@@Physicsduck Well if you look back in the WW2 and 50's era, aircraft connectors had a screw-on ring like that, probably at some point the design was reused into cheaper connectors for general use, and they got that name. Same concept but a lot cheaper in every aspects, in particular for the contacts material and tolerances, using a low cost chrome plated metal instead of gold or silver plated brass ! Now aircraft plugs have more often a locking ring, however threated rings are still available. Meanwhile soviet aircraft connectors only use a screw-on ring.
All those tools around you and you haven't learned to hold the wires with a pair of needle nose??? (Except then we wouldn't get to hear you yell "FUUUUUUUCK!".. LOL)
Generally it is a good idea to keep both sides of the connectors together when soldering. This helps keep the pins aligned if the plastic retaining the pins melts or gets soft. (Especially a problem with cheap plugs)
It is best to keep the amount of heat applied to the pins to a minimum. To do this, don't pre-tin the cups. Do add flux though.
Only tin the wires so they can fully fit into the cup. Trim off any solder blobs.
This allows you to bottom the wire in the cup before soldering it. This way you can use the helping hands to hold the wire so you don't burn your fingers, keeps the heating of the pins to a minimum, and keeps the wire from moving which can cause a cold solder joint. Then, if needed, add a bit of extra solder to finish the joint.
Thank you for the tips! :) You're welcome to read ahead in the manual and send me other tips on future steps. It helps make for better videos. :)
I agree, it's a lot easier to tin the wire only and not the cups
When it comes to holding the connector. You could keep the plug in the socket and hold it with a wrench while tightening the nut on the back. Keeping the plug in the socket may help keep it from getting crushed while you tighten.
Dude, no no no!!! Only use a pair of small shrink tubing to cover each terminal/wire, don't use 1 big one to shrink down over the pair. the whole point of the tubing is to prevent shorts, and with + - in the same tube if something breaks they could make contact! Oh thank god I see you changed your mind later on. I was about to scream!
i use them in buliding car audio systems and custom led lighting installs and most DC powered projects under 56 volts max 20 amps
Dear Chris: Actually, the RIGHT way to mount aviation connectors, the only way you are sure they
won't turn when you screw the cable on, is to mount them on D-shaped holes (better yet:
"double D's", with 2 flats so that the 13mm hole is only 11mm between the flats).
These holes are almost impossible to machine, unless you punch them with a special punch.
BUT, this case is 3D printed, so it would be easy to program the proper holes in the STL file.
Unfortunately, goodold Chris Annin didn't do it...
Thankfully he made the project Open Source so that we could all contribute in our own ways. I'm making the videos. You could edit the STL file and add the flats. ;)
@@Physicsduck Yes, I thought about that myself, but I have never edited an STL file.
I thought this couldn't be done? I understand these files are the final instructions
for the printer, after "slicing" - you would have to have access to the original CAD
design files, which I believe weren't released - I think Chris Annin used SolidWorks
to design the parts. The SolidWorks files are available, but they aren't free - Chris
Annin wants US$99 for them...
But I am very new to all this, so I might be wrong... I will try to study futher this subject...
That looks like a CB microphone plug
Only a CB cable had 4 connections
Oh No that's Wrong soldering on fill the plug at 9:50 / 28:48 You should put wire into the plug FIRST! then soldering on fill it.
Would it be tighter if the washer was the other side so the nut doesn't slide. Sorry if this is a stupid idea I am not very technical and I'm never sure why they include washers like that or which side they go on.
Oh and pessary, (fnarf!).. those I do know about!
Fun they are called aviation connectors, while their quality is actually veeery far from the quality of real aircraft grade connectors.
I was noticing that. I wonder where the name comes from?
@@Physicsduck Well if you look back in the WW2 and 50's era, aircraft connectors had a screw-on ring like that, probably at some point the design was reused into cheaper connectors for general use, and they got that name. Same concept but a lot cheaper in every aspects, in particular for the contacts material and tolerances, using a low cost chrome plated metal instead of gold or silver plated brass ! Now aircraft plugs have more often a locking ring, however threated rings are still available. Meanwhile soviet aircraft connectors only use a screw-on ring.
Maybe they're Boeing grade aviation connectors?
All those tools around you and you haven't learned to hold the wires with a pair of needle nose??? (Except then we wouldn't get to hear you yell "FUUUUUUUCK!".. LOL)