KevinJ Cram, This was worth every penny! You did this Sako Extractor Installation for me back in 02/2013 on two Remington 700 bolts and I have not had one failure to extract or one failure to eject. Thank you again! Today is 02/24/2021, just over 8 (eight) years.
Tried all the tricks with two old Remington 721’s to get reliable extraction and could not. One in 30-06 and the other .300 H&H. Kevin solved my problem! Great service I might add!
I have used silver solder in jewelry repair industry, if you do this allot you should look into companies that supply for the jewelry repair industry, probably allot cheaper than Brownell's. The low temp stuff is called EASY solder, it goes EASY-MEDIUM-HARD Gesswein is the company that supplied me while working for Sterling Jewelers
Does one have to be concerned with annealing the bolt structures from the heat while soldering, say if it was for a magnum load, even with the heat sync paste?
As it is, the Remington is the world's strongest action because of the full safety breech. Once that bolt face is cut for the sako extractor it might still be as strong as the Arisaka but no longer the world's strongest....
You are right... the 700 with the original extractor is the strongest safest 2 lug bolt action every made. This alteration to part of the Sako extractor system is the worst thing you can do to a 700...
Any modern mouser style action will be comparably stronger than a r700 action. The sako extractor upgrade is a requirement for dg hunting with magnum calibers. Guides and hunters have been killed because of the various ways the factory r700 extractor fails under real-world stress. Deer hunters can fuck off and do whatever, but buffalo&elephant hunters have a significant amount of responsibility to not create a life threatening situation after they pull the trigger. And yet uneducated ass-hats continue to propagate ignorant bullshit that will get more people killed.
Had this done too my Remington,please don't waste your money on this,Sako extractors are no better than the factory Remington extractors,a total waste of money
On non-magnum calibers this is somewhat true, but on calibers like 416 rem mag, this is an essential modification if you hunt dangerous game or are using full power handloads. My factory extractor on my 416RM broke off after about 600'ish rounds, luckily while i was hog hunting in Fl, an not in South Africa. If you buffalo/bear hunt with magnum calibers, you are a liability in the field if you neglect to do this upgrade.
Great video. Thanks. One pan - plz cease calling the brand using a long-A sound; the maker pronounces the brand with a short ‘O’ (Socko). How to keep it straight: Seiko is a watch company; Sako is a gun company.
Please don't take my previous post the wrong way. Your technique is fine your skills are perfect. Just please don't speak in tenths with a indicator incapable of reading to that level of accuracy.
To braze or solder you're heating the base metal to at least 800 F. That's WAY hotter than any "safe" temp steel can be heated to without affecting heat treatment and hardness. I hope to hell you have those bolts heat-treated after your "upgrades".
How much run out is in the spindle of your lathe. Bet you it's not better then .0005" that's another assumption made quite frequently. You don't get lathes with tighter spindle runout until you get into the tool room type machines. And they are usually no better then .0002" runout. What I'm trying to say here is your indicator is not absolute and it has internal hysteresis that create a degree of uncertainty. If you've been making parts as long as I have to the tolerances I have you would know
Well I have to disagree. Your indicator is not accurate enough to measure down to .0002"-.0003". I find it disconcerting that you assume the indicator is absolute. As for the material used. You may feel comfortable using a low grade steel. But not me. That ring may not see a lot of pressure but it does see some. I'd feel better with a piece of 4140. Like I said I don't have a problem with how you are doing things. Even the leadloy is no big deal. I just disagree with the tolerance you are sta
You may have had good luck with you practice but I would never use leadloy (12L14) on any critical area of a firearm. and claiming .0002" to .0003 with a .0005" indicator is a joke. Open up the little piece of paper that came with the indicator and you will see to tolerances listed. One is accuracy and the other is repeatability. Accuracy for a .0005" indicator is right around +/-.0001" repeatability is right at +/-.0005" So that .0005" indicator could be reading as far off as +/-.0012"
Why did you (and everyone else who does this downgrade) only install part of the Sako extractor system? It still needs the long 'deflector' or bolt guide to make it safer in the instance of a case failure. You have negated all of the strength and safety of the original 700 extractor system.
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KevinJ Cram,
This was worth every penny!
You did this Sako Extractor Installation for me back in 02/2013 on two Remington 700 bolts and I have not had one failure to extract or one failure to eject.
Thank you again!
Today is 02/24/2021, just over 8 (eight) years.
Tried all the tricks with two old Remington 721’s to get reliable extraction and could not. One in 30-06 and the other .300 H&H. Kevin solved my problem! Great service I might add!
Fabulous footage of the work being done with no BS on how great a gunsmith you are, meaning no need to brag as the work speaks for itself.
Thank you !
Kevin is the man ! I just got mine back from him, EXCELLENT job !
Kevin, great video. It's great to have indepth instruction on your technique. It is much appreciated.
I have used silver solder in jewelry repair industry, if you do this allot you should look into companies that supply for the jewelry repair industry, probably allot cheaper than Brownell's. The low temp stuff is called EASY solder, it goes EASY-MEDIUM-HARD
Gesswein is the company that supplied me while working for Sterling Jewelers
I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
So now you removed the heat treatment of the bolt???
12L45 is a good screw machine steel. Seems to cut nicely for me anyways.
Excellent vid well done, any chance of getting some more tecniques on the tube
If you have a small magnet you can stick all of your small parts to it.
Does one have to be concerned with annealing the bolt structures from the heat while soldering, say if it was for a magnum load, even with the heat sync paste?
bolt didnt get to annealing temp
Very good video, except Sako is pronounced "Sah-ko". I am seriously considering the upgrade to my 700 before it's re-barreled. Thanks for the upload!
You do incredible work. Is that extractor actually manufactured by Sako?
As it is, the Remington is the world's strongest action because of the full safety breech. Once that bolt face is cut for the sako extractor it might still be as strong as the Arisaka but no longer the world's strongest....
Lol "strongest"
You are right... the 700 with the original extractor is the strongest safest 2 lug bolt action every made. This alteration to part of the Sako extractor system is the worst thing you can do to a 700...
Any modern mouser style action will be comparably stronger than a r700 action.
The sako extractor upgrade is a requirement for dg hunting with magnum calibers. Guides and hunters have been killed because of the various ways the factory r700 extractor fails under real-world stress.
Deer hunters can fuck off and do whatever, but buffalo&elephant hunters have a significant amount of responsibility to not create a life threatening situation after they pull the trigger.
And yet uneducated ass-hats continue to propagate ignorant bullshit that will get more people killed.
What's the name of the paste you used? And where can I find it?
The remington bolt 700 is not very good,he put a sako parts on the face bolts.
That is not "silver" solder. What you are using may be fine for your application.
Had this done too my Remington,please don't waste your money on this,Sako extractors are no better than the factory Remington extractors,a total waste of money
On non-magnum calibers this is somewhat true, but on calibers like 416 rem mag, this is an essential modification if you hunt dangerous game or are using full power handloads.
My factory extractor on my 416RM broke off after about 600'ish rounds, luckily while i was hog hunting in Fl, an not in South Africa.
If you buffalo/bear hunt with magnum calibers, you are a liability in the field if you neglect to do this upgrade.
Great video. Thanks. One pan - plz cease calling the brand using a long-A sound; the maker pronounces the brand with a short ‘O’ (Socko). How to keep it straight: Seiko is a watch company; Sako is a gun company.
Please don't take my previous post the wrong way. Your technique is fine your skills are perfect. Just please don't speak in tenths with a indicator incapable of reading to that level of accuracy.
can you do this on a 788 in .223?
To braze or solder you're heating the base metal to at least 800 F. That's WAY hotter than any "safe" temp steel can be heated to without affecting heat treatment and hardness. I hope to hell you have those bolts heat-treated after your "upgrades".
I use a low temp solder and a propane torch. It never gets hot enough to effect the metal.
Should have done a m16.
I like Remington but why go to the trouble. Buy a Sako. ????? Remington is a GOOD gun. No joke.
How much run out is in the spindle of your lathe. Bet you it's not better then .0005" that's another assumption made quite frequently. You don't get lathes with tighter spindle runout until you get into the tool room type machines. And they are usually no better then .0002" runout.
What I'm trying to say here is your indicator is not absolute and it has internal hysteresis that create a degree of uncertainty. If you've been making parts as long as I have to the tolerances I have you would know
That.
My friend you need a girlfriend to hold the camera :)
Well I have to disagree. Your indicator is not accurate enough to measure down to .0002"-.0003". I find it disconcerting that you assume the indicator is absolute.
As for the material used. You may feel comfortable using a low grade steel. But not me. That ring may not see a lot of pressure but it does see some. I'd feel better with a piece of 4140.
Like I said I don't have a problem with how you are doing things. Even the leadloy is no big deal. I just disagree with the tolerance you are sta
rem 700 design is garbage. with this amount of work you might as well just get a sako. better quality overall
Mac T sako's aren't perfect either.
You may have had good luck with you practice but I would never use leadloy (12L14) on any critical area of a firearm. and claiming .0002" to .0003 with a .0005" indicator is a joke.
Open up the little piece of paper that came with the indicator and you will see to tolerances listed. One is accuracy and the other is repeatability. Accuracy for a .0005" indicator is right around +/-.0001" repeatability is right at +/-.0005"
So that .0005" indicator could be reading as far off as +/-.0012"
Why did you (and everyone else who does this downgrade) only install part of the Sako extractor system? It still needs the long 'deflector' or bolt guide to make it safer in the instance of a case failure. You have negated all of the strength and safety of the original 700 extractor system.
Get this off the screen
Great video bud. You obviously know what you're doing. I love some of these idiotic comments!!
If you think the factory extractor is no better than a properly done sako extractor you clearly don't know the difference.