Really nice work! Making your boat your own is very satisfying for sure. Congratulations on a really nice bit of work - takes much patience and we can tell you are a patience guy. My Pearson Vanguard has an inboard diesel (Yanmar) which was changed out for the original Atomic 4 gasoline engine - I like your upgrade and there are always trade-offs with anything boating. Take care and thank you for the very thorough guide to deck work.
Thanks! I’m mostly impressed with how the areas where I tore out the gas intake and icebox hatch turned out. Big holes and now you would never know they were there. The stanchion that I repaired too, the crack was pretty bad and it had a ton of movement. Now it’s solid again. Actually, the engine well turned out pretty good too 🤣 No question I pushed the epoxy products to their limits with the temperatures in northern Michigan in April and May, not something I’d recommend but really happy with how things turned out.
This boat is a gem, and it hurts me a little bit watching you to install the outboard engine, cutting the hull etc... But it can be undone in the future if you decide to refit an inboard engine that would make justice to this boat. Great job.
Interesting take on James’ outboard well. I can imagine the frustration when it wouldn’t fire. Looks like I may have just sold my Triton. I have mixed emotions. Looking forward to the rest of your work. Best Chuck
Yes, I may change the well in the future to allow a tilt but no time to move the chain plates right now. Sold your boat? 😬 That might take some getting used to
Hi Jason, that is quite a project you have! I am sure it will very satisfying when all done! I have picked up a Sirius 21 a 1982 jem. It is in very good condition with only a couple spots of dock rash to repair. Looking forward to launch in a few weeks Happy sailing! BB
Wow, that was a lot of work so far. It's fun to see the transformation, nice job! Do you know how many hours you have spent on repairs? You will soon enjoy the fruits of your labors.
THANK YOU. I was just asking a buddy about what epoxy and thickener to use in such jobs. But I may not use fast hardening until I get better at doing this.
Glad to help. I've used West System, MAS, and TotalBoat, also Slow Hardener and Fast Hardener. I do really like TotalBoat products. They also have great online support. The big thing to consider is the working temperature when choosing your hardener. If you're working in a warmer climate, I'd definitely stick to a slow hardener. The other thing, is to mix smaller batches and be aware that the epoxy will "kick off" faster when it's in the pot. When I've built canoes, I would often pour the mixed epoxy out onto the surface and spread it out from there. This would buy me a little more working time. If it's your first time, don't be intimidated but just mix small batches, typically 2 or 3 pumps of resin and an equal 2 or 3 pumps of hardener. Another tip that I'd give is to trim the length of your bristle brushes (trim away half of the bristle length) it will make them stiffer and better for applying the epoxy. Last thing is don't overlook a plastic spreader. A bondo spreader works great.
@@TrailguidePictures And I have gained another sailboat. An 81' San Juan 7.7. It is here in the middle of the country. I retire in a few months and working on that boat here. I cut out the V birth floor and removed the black tank. Will wet vac out the tank under the toilet next. But there will be no toilet. Just storage. My intention is to live-a-board while working on the Triton. Then sell the San Juan when the Triton is done. The marina has bathroom and showers.
I was wondering about the rudder work. Does there need to be some space left in the seams to allow for wood expansion when wet? Like on wood boat planking? Or is the water sealed out with your coatings? I don't know. I was just wondering about it when I saw you fill the seams with epoxy.
I didn't use marine grade plywood. I used birch cabinet grade plywood. Aside from the different species available (Okume etc) with marine grade, "marine grade" is plywood that should not have any voids within the ply. Depending on the application it's not necessary. All of the work I did was above the waterline, so although it will likely get wet, it will not likely be soaking in water to the extent that water could get into any voids, stay in voids and then start to rot. Using fibreglass and epoxy to seal the plywood and then the TotalProtect and Gelcoat further backs up the structure. With regards to grades of plywood, you don't want to use a "construction grade" because they are usually rough, porous and full of voids, but a "cabinet grade" usually is structurally stable and also doesn't have any voids. Cabinet grade plywood is designed for use in high humidity and high moisture areas. If I was doing work below the water line I would only use a marine grade but for this application, in my opinion, it's not necessary.
That was a lot of work!
Really nice work! Making your boat your own is very satisfying for sure. Congratulations on a really nice bit of work - takes much patience and we can tell you are a patience guy. My Pearson Vanguard has an inboard diesel (Yanmar) which was changed out for the original Atomic 4 gasoline engine - I like your upgrade and there are always trade-offs with anything boating. Take care and thank you for the very thorough guide to deck work.
Thanks Jason! All the best on your travels. As a long time Michigan resident, Traverse City is a nice place to spend some time.
Thank you. I totally agree! Traverse is a very nice little city with some very nice people.
The rudder and deck repairs turned out awesome! The deck is looking brand new!
Thanks! I’m mostly impressed with how the areas where I tore out the gas intake and icebox hatch turned out. Big holes and now you would never know they were there. The stanchion that I repaired too, the crack was pretty bad and it had a ton of movement. Now it’s solid again.
Actually, the engine well turned out pretty good too 🤣
No question I pushed the epoxy products to their limits with the temperatures in northern Michigan in April and May, not something I’d recommend but really happy with how things turned out.
This boat is a gem, and it hurts me a little bit watching you to install the outboard engine, cutting the hull etc... But it can be undone in the future if you decide to refit an inboard engine that would make justice to this boat. Great job.
I love watching the process, Jason. Pretty cool. Thanks!👍🙂⛵
Glad you enjoyed it. It was a lot of work.
Good video, thanks for sharing YAH bless !
Thank you too
Interesting take on James’ outboard well. I can imagine the frustration when it wouldn’t fire. Looks like I may have just sold my Triton. I have mixed emotions. Looking forward to the rest of your work. Best Chuck
Yes, I may change the well in the future to allow a tilt but no time to move the chain plates right now. Sold your boat? 😬 That might take some getting used to
@@TrailguidePictures I have too many boats. lol. two happiest days, you know
Hi Jason, that is quite a project you have! I am sure it will very satisfying when all done! I have picked up a Sirius 21 a 1982 jem. It is in very good condition with only a couple spots of dock rash to repair. Looking forward to launch in a few weeks
Happy sailing!
BB
Sirius, a nice Canadian made boat. From Owen Sound I believe. Congratulations
Men working 😅 ⛵️❤
A lot of work and somehow enjoyable
Wow, that was a lot of work so far. It's fun to see the transformation, nice job! Do you know how many hours you have spent on repairs? You will soon enjoy the fruits of your labors.
Thanks.
Not sure about the hours but it was 5 weeks full time 7 days per week.
Exhausting but worth it
THANK YOU. I was just asking a buddy about what epoxy and thickener to use in such jobs. But I may not use fast hardening until I get better at doing this.
Glad to help. I've used West System, MAS, and TotalBoat, also Slow Hardener and Fast Hardener. I do really like TotalBoat products. They also have great online support. The big thing to consider is the working temperature when choosing your hardener. If you're working in a warmer climate, I'd definitely stick to a slow hardener. The other thing, is to mix smaller batches and be aware that the epoxy will "kick off" faster when it's in the pot. When I've built canoes, I would often pour the mixed epoxy out onto the surface and spread it out from there. This would buy me a little more working time. If it's your first time, don't be intimidated but just mix small batches, typically 2 or 3 pumps of resin and an equal 2 or 3 pumps of hardener. Another tip that I'd give is to trim the length of your bristle brushes (trim away half of the bristle length) it will make them stiffer and better for applying the epoxy. Last thing is don't overlook a plastic spreader. A bondo spreader works great.
@@TrailguidePictures What type of plywood are you using? Marine grade is hard to find here
@@TrailguidePictures And I have gained another sailboat. An 81' San Juan 7.7. It is here in the middle of the country. I retire in a few months and working on that boat here. I cut out the V birth floor and removed the black tank. Will wet vac out the tank under the toilet next. But there will be no toilet. Just storage. My intention is to live-a-board while working on the Triton. Then sell the San Juan when the Triton is done. The marina has bathroom and showers.
I was wondering about the rudder work. Does there need to be some space left in the seams to allow for wood expansion when wet? Like on wood boat planking? Or is the water sealed out with your coatings? I don't know. I was just wondering about it when I saw you fill the seams with epoxy.
What type of plywood are you using? Marine grade is hard to find here.
I didn't use marine grade plywood. I used birch cabinet grade plywood. Aside from the different species available (Okume etc) with marine grade, "marine grade" is plywood that should not have any voids within the ply. Depending on the application it's not necessary. All of the work I did was above the waterline, so although it will likely get wet, it will not likely be soaking in water to the extent that water could get into any voids, stay in voids and then start to rot. Using fibreglass and epoxy to seal the plywood and then the TotalProtect and Gelcoat further backs up the structure.
With regards to grades of plywood, you don't want to use a "construction grade" because they are usually rough, porous and full of voids, but a "cabinet grade" usually is structurally stable and also doesn't have any voids. Cabinet grade plywood is designed for use in high humidity and high moisture areas. If I was doing work below the water line I would only use a marine grade but for this application, in my opinion, it's not necessary.
@@TrailguidePictures Thank you again. Wonderful advice.
I thought you were in Mexico was the boat bought in Michigan?
Yes, the boat was bought in Michigan
looks like pettit copperkote