ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO: - TV Cable Management Kit - amzn.to/4cZskwj - 42-86” TV Mount - amzn.to/3TXoT0f - 6” Drywall Jab Saw - amzn.to/3xCwyK4 - Franklin Stud Finder - amzn.to/49AeBcc - KLEIN Tools Fish Tape - amzn.to/3JiIGCv - Wire Strippers - amzn.to/3Q34OVj - 1” Masking Tape - amzn.to/3Q1DQxd - Drill With Bit FULL Kit - amzn.to/3xAyMcL
I've recently discovered this channel and it's been such a huge help! I've already done some work fixing the garage door weather trim, caulking new baseboard, and using the miter saw to cut trim for an entire room, all with these videos as my companion and guide. Thanks for making it so easy to follow for beginners and explaining how and why to do things! My house is improving so much and I'm feeling less intimidated by the work it still needs.
Would love to see a video with power source being 12-3 split receptacle added to another receptacle with 12-2 . Just watched your video on the spilt outlet connected to a light switch. Is receptacle to another receptacle the same concept? Love your videos. You explain everything very well. I have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
There is a special long auger bit you can get that will reach about 48” that you can use to penetrate through the fire lock without cutting a big hole in your wall. Lowe’s or Home Depot carries it in the electrical isle
@@rea8755 I did look into NEC 2024 handbook, and there does't seem to be any restriction on using power inlets, so as long as the wiring and connectors can all handle the rated load, it shouldn't present a fire hazard. I did read some 1-star reviews of the suggested product, though, and many people complained that cutout template is wrong, and that the connectors are flimsy and failed easily, so buyer beware.
Then you put a hole in the rock and drill through the fire break. Then you repair the rock. Simple as that. More expensive, it is a matter of what you want to deal with to hide the power cord. I would also take power from the outlet already there and run it up the wall, one less box. Quite simple to do, not sure why this solution is even considered.
There are special long auger bits designed to penetrate any fire block if it is within the bits reach which is about 48 or so inches. Is is a bit tricky finding that hole later but doable. Most home improvement centers like Lowe’s or Home Depot carry this tool. A fish tape helps as well. Like Tim said earlier, easier to use the original outlet if it is in the right spot under the new top outlet location, just widen the lower hole for the low volt cables to pass through
Does this do any kind of surge protection? Or would you potentially need to go from the outlet > surge protector > outlet? It does look like they offer a surge protector version for $70 more.. Not sure if that's worth it versus doing a stand alone surge protector.
You can cut and chisel out the mortar between the bricks and run the Romex in the channel. It’s a pita, but doable. Make sure you get a good long HDMI cable and keep it in a separate groove away from the Romex.
The right solution is to run the power up and in the wall from the existing box to a new outlet behind the TV. The solution presented in this video makes no sense to me one less box, and the box behind the TV would be smaller. And if one can handle what is presented in this video, they could handle what I am suggesting.
That is true if the top outlet location is in the same cell as the feeder outlet, but older houses have fewer outlets and may not have one in the area you plan on mounting the tv. This is a good DIY option for one of those installs.
If it were only power then your proposed solution would be valid. However, in the video he stated that the channel would house hdmi cables that connected to a video game console below the tv. I believe the purpose of his approach was to hide not only unsightly power cables dangling beneath his wall mounted tv, but also the cables that connect his console. I suppose he could have installed a dual outlet that would have brought power up behind the tv as well as integrated in-wall rated hdmi, but for what he’s doing I think that cable management channel did the trick.
I am thoroughly confused at what I just watched. If you're fishing a wire up a wall, and your splicing the inlet, then why wouldn't you just wire the receptacle behind the TV without the need for the inlet? Also, any time you add a new outlet to any exist circuitry, then you must by code, protect that circuit with an arc fault circuit interrupter.
You installed the wall box upside down, on both top and bottom /facepalm. All you really did was move the cords mess down to the floor where the normal wall power boxes are. If your capable of cutting drywall and doing all this, your capable of just doing it right and adding the proper power box behind the TV without this work around to plug this box into another normal power outlet, which I doubt is legal for building codes. Kids, don't follow this poor example video, if your not skilled in these installations hire a professional so you don't burn down your house or void your home insurance using non approved electrical systems.
I agree, but if the bottom power feeding outlet was on a different wall this would be a good DIY get around. You would still need to add a couple holes for the low volt cable(s). Wiremold is an alternative as well, cleaner, but still ugly
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ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- TV Cable Management Kit - amzn.to/4cZskwj
- 42-86” TV Mount - amzn.to/3TXoT0f
- 6” Drywall Jab Saw - amzn.to/3xCwyK4
- Franklin Stud Finder - amzn.to/49AeBcc
- KLEIN Tools Fish Tape - amzn.to/3JiIGCv
- Wire Strippers - amzn.to/3Q34OVj
- 1” Masking Tape - amzn.to/3Q1DQxd
- Drill With Bit FULL Kit - amzn.to/3xAyMcL
I've recently discovered this channel and it's been such a huge help! I've already done some work fixing the garage door weather trim, caulking new baseboard, and using the miter saw to cut trim for an entire room, all with these videos as my companion and guide. Thanks for making it so easy to follow for beginners and explaining how and why to do things! My house is improving so much and I'm feeling less intimidated by the work it still needs.
Well it's about time. Just kidding Peace
You make things look so easy! Thank you!
Great video demonstation! Looks nice and clean.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks!
Would love to see a video with power source being 12-3 split receptacle added to another receptacle with 12-2 . Just watched your video on the spilt outlet connected to a light switch. Is receptacle to another receptacle the same concept? Love your videos. You explain everything very well. I have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
Nice! Thanks.
Awesome video!! thank you!
I’m glad I could be of help! 👍🏽😊
Wago connector's way better.god bless you for your time on these videos.
Hello, sir. Do you know of a good 2 outlet In-Wall Cable Management Kit? The one you have here only supports one outlet at each end.
My walls tend to have firebreaks. Makes all this much more difficult.
There is a special long auger bit you can get that will reach about 48” that you can use to penetrate through the fire lock without cutting a big hole in your wall. Lowe’s or Home Depot carries it in the electrical isle
Does the NEC 2023 permit this, what feels like, temporary wiring?
What's a little fire😂?
@@rea8755 I did look into NEC 2024 handbook, and there does't seem to be any restriction on using power inlets, so as long as the wiring and connectors can all handle the rated load, it shouldn't present a fire hazard.
I did read some 1-star reviews of the suggested product, though, and many people complained that cutout template is wrong, and that the connectors are flimsy and failed easily, so buyer beware.
So, what about if one encounters a fire brake where the outlet is installed? Should one be looking to ensure a fire brake isn’t blocking the path?
Then you put a hole in the rock and drill through the fire break. Then you repair the rock. Simple as that. More expensive, it is a matter of what you want to deal with to hide the power cord. I would also take power from the outlet already there and run it up the wall, one less box. Quite simple to do, not sure why this solution is even considered.
There are special long auger bits designed to penetrate any fire block if it is within the bits reach which is about 48 or so inches. Is is a bit tricky finding that hole later but doable. Most home improvement centers like Lowe’s or Home Depot carry this tool. A fish tape helps as well. Like Tim said earlier, easier to use the original outlet if it is in the right spot under the new top outlet location, just widen the lower hole for the low volt cables to pass through
Does this do any kind of surge protection? Or would you potentially need to go from the outlet > surge protector > outlet?
It does look like they offer a surge protector version for $70 more.. Not sure if that's worth it versus doing a stand alone surge protector.
I’d get a stand alone surge protector in case of failure it would be easier to replace
How easy is it to fish the wire
Took less than 1 minute, trial and error.
or just wire it out to the existing outlet?that extention cord man😳
Then you’ll have an exposed wire going down?
Only if you are okay with that "wires, wires, everywhere" look. This is a cleaner, neater look and appears pretty easy to do.
@@FixThisHouse just like adding an outlet but just vertical
@@hammerridecycling7630you would still have to have a place to run the low volt cables. They do make special wall plates designed for it though.
I don't understand. Are you connecting the new outlet to power or not?
No, you are making electrical extension which connects to the main outlet power with an extension cord.
That white extension cord will provide power to the new outlet he installed that goes up the wall where the tv was connected.
Multi tool is much safer
Try doing this on the brick
If you got brick, then you are shit out of luck. need to run a piece of Trim up to the TV that hides the wire.
You can cut and chisel out the mortar between the bricks and run the Romex in the channel. It’s a pita, but doable. Make sure you get a good long HDMI cable and keep it in a separate groove away from the Romex.
The right solution is to run the power up and in the wall from the existing box to a new outlet behind the TV. The solution presented in this video makes no sense to me one less box, and the box behind the TV would be smaller. And if one can handle what is presented in this video, they could handle what I am suggesting.
That is true if the top outlet location is in the same cell as the feeder outlet, but older houses have fewer outlets and may not have one in the area you plan on mounting the tv. This is a good DIY option for one of those installs.
Also, this option doesn't require repairing dry wall after installing boxes.
If it were only power then your proposed solution would be valid. However, in the video he stated that the channel would house hdmi cables that connected to a video game console below the tv. I believe the purpose of his approach was to hide not only unsightly power cables dangling beneath his wall mounted tv, but also the cables that connect his console. I suppose he could have installed a dual outlet that would have brought power up behind the tv as well as integrated in-wall rated hdmi, but for what he’s doing I think that cable management channel did the trick.
👍👍👍
Johnson Scott Young Amy Gonzalez Deborah
Not code compliant
I am thoroughly confused at what I just watched. If you're fishing a wire up a wall, and your splicing the inlet, then why wouldn't you just wire the receptacle behind the TV without the need for the inlet? Also, any time you add a new outlet to any exist circuitry, then you must by code, protect that circuit with an arc fault circuit interrupter.
It’s basically an extension cord hidden in the wall, but you could call the building department and ask if it’s ok to use this kit without a permit
You still have one wire at bottom dangling and connecting two outlets. Useless video
You installed the wall box upside down, on both top and bottom /facepalm.
All you really did was move the cords mess down to the floor where the normal wall power boxes are.
If your capable of cutting drywall and doing all this, your capable of just doing it right and adding the proper power box behind the TV without this work around to plug this box into another normal power outlet, which I doubt is legal for building codes.
Kids, don't follow this poor example video, if your not skilled in these installations hire a professional so you don't burn down your house or void your home insurance using non approved electrical systems.
I agree, but if the bottom power feeding outlet was on a different wall this would be a good DIY get around. You would still need to add a couple holes for the low volt cable(s). Wiremold is an alternative as well, cleaner, but still ugly