There is nothing more satisfying than running into a short succinct well done video on a subject, especially considering all of the superfluous garbage out there. My respect and thanks to you sir.
I just started on my wiring project and my kit came with fusible link. Which the installation guide specifically says to hook up the link. Also my car is 1947 Dodge Deluxe! Thanks foe the video!
It's not needed but yea it gives protection for if the battery is hooked up wrong or wires touch when they shouldn't or your wiring harness shits the bed
Just the information I was looking for! Thanks, Wiring up an EZ Wire harness in my 65 Chevy C-10 Truck and almost ready to hook up the battery! But need to put the fusible link first
Thank you sir I enjoyed the video and I learned a lot and I have a card it's a fusible link you just gave me an idea of my problem was thank you thank you so much I'm very grateful I just happened to scope along here and then I looked at it and now yes thank you thank you
Hello Larry! Thank you for this valuable tip I have been looking for. Such an easy to understand and practical approach. Question? At 1:03 of video, you said you installed 16g links to/on the power feed of the car. Is that power feed the wire from the Alternator to solenoid or something else? Thanks so much! Blessings from Michigan.
The car has a generator not an alternator, with a external voltage regulator, so those two power feed wires run the fuse panel and the voltage regulator for the charging system and it connects right at the battery cable on the solenoid to protect the whole system.
Yes you can, but remember fusible link is surge protection. It is not rated. If you want to replace it, you need to understand and figure out what amperage of a fuse you will need. Hope this helps.
Fusible link is surge protection from a short circuit. A fuse is amperage rated. You may be able to switch out a fuse but the short in the system still remains and you need to track the short down or you will blow fuse after fuse. You may want to watch our video specifically on Fusible Link.
Great video. If I was to install a higher amperage alternator on my 2003 suburban do I need to increase the size of my fusible link. I have a 14 gauge one on it now that came on it from factory. And I want to put on a 160amp alternator.
From my research on this very thing this week, my 100 amp alternator would require at least an 8 gauge wire to my starter solenoid. You are probably looking at a 4 g. The ground wire from alt to engine block can be smaller like a 8g, but research that. I run 8g and ground is 10g.
Sorry for the delay in my response. In our shop, we run 12 g fusible link. That’s what the Dodge Diesel has. If you have any questions, give us a call.
Thanks for uploading this information. I have a few questions. If you have two 16g wires to the heavy gauge wire, what gauge is that main wire you're using? Also, can I have several different gauge wires going to 1 fusible link, if so, how would you do the math to find out which gauge link to use?
In most cases original equipment manufactures only use a maximum of two wires for a fusible link connection. With that in mind, the best way for you to figure out what size fusible link you need, is by figuring out what size wires that you were trying to connect to. Honestly most are 10 gauge but I wouldn’t guarantee it.
I'm just having trouble reading a diagram with a fusible link. It shows the wire of interest splitting at a connector/splice towards a fusible link and separately towards an EEC relay. Continuity before splice up to EEC relay checks out. Does that mean the fusible link is also good?
Are you talking about just a diagram? Or a project you are working on? If it’s a diagram, can you email me a picture of it to info@heielectric.com? If you are working on a project you should be able to just check the continuity on each side of the fusible link.
Fusible link burns so quickly that it shouldn't affect your adjacent wiring. And just so we are clear, fusible link itself, would *NEVER be in loom* . Typical it is connected onto the power feed. I hope this answers your question.
Thank you for getting back to me,...I am a senior trying to help out my son with is '50 chev truck. It is an '86 s10 frame with the original 2.8l v6. It has a aftermarket temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and an ammeter. It also has a 3wire alternator. One main positive post, and a #1 and #2 terminal. I hooked the ammeter from the #2 terminal, went to the ammeter, then from the ammeter to the battery positive. Of course, that does not work. I hooked up a set of these gauges back in 1972 with some help, but today, am scratching my head. Can you help? Thank you.
OK, your alternator in that series of truck would be about 100 Amps. I’m assuming you have a 60 amp ammeter. that would be too much current through the ammeter. However, to hook it up, the battery wire off the alternator hooks to one side of the ammeter and all your power feed loads also go on that side. The remaining side just goes to the battery like you have it. my suggestion would be to do away with the ammeter and put a voltmeter in it. Most cars have volt meters, because the amperage is too high for an ammeter. Also a volt meter is easier to hook up. Just needs small wires, one to key on and a ground wire. Hope this helps.
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC ...most kind of you to respond so quickly. You likely have forgotten more than I know. Is there a way to tell the amperage of the alternator? Does it say somewhere?
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC Thank you. The thought I had is, if possibly the wire grounded somehow between the alternator and battery and it is fused at the battery only, the power would be cut from the battery, but the alternator would still feed voltage the length of wire to where it grounded out. Is that possible or am I thinking too much or incorrectly?
How many Amp do you think people need for say a modern EFI car with lots of electric accessories, cooling fans etc VS an old 50s hotrod with basically maybe a heater and windscreen wipers and thats it?
I'm having trouble understanding the choke point of a fusible link. If I go from a 10 gauge to a 14 gauge fusible link, didn't I just negate the utility of the 10 gauge?
No the 10 gauge wire is doing the job. The 14ga fuse link is a short wire that will not disrupt the load because it’s so short. But provides short surge protection. Watch our video on the 1950 Dodge Coronet to see how we used fusible link there. How this answers your question.
Thank you for this very informative video. Wondering if you can advise where I can connect an aftermarket ammeter. I know to connect one lead to the battery positive from the ammeter,..but I do not know where to connect the other wire of my ammeter. I am using a 10 gauge wire.
I thought the same thing. It looks like there needs to be a drastic short or current overcharge to burn through the fusible link, whereas a fuse or circuit breaker would be a simple short. That’s the way I understood it.
You are correct. Fuses are amperage rated. We promote the fusable link as a surge protection just like the original original equipment manufactures do. Hope this helps
I have a 1990 Dodge b250 with fusible link issues I seriously considered putting an alternative on but there is literally nothing out there that works in the same manner You have to kind of fake it and I don't want to do that. My plan is to unravel the rat's nest and disconnect one at a time and reconnect a new fusible link on each one. Given they're all so old I don't see any good alternative. I really wish I could see what it look like under all that! It's such a mess.. not even sure exactly how many fusible links there are! Six or seven I think..
Thank you for your reply. I have an 88 d21 and there’s 3 fusible links that were missing from previous owner, do you think 30 amp fuse replacement will be on the safe side?
y a fusible link, instead of a cleaner, safer, easier to replace fuse? i imagine theirs Some kinda of benefit.. theirs gotta b otherwise it would just b plain stupid to Not use a fuse..
All the original equipment manufacturers used fusible link. If you didn’t know fusible link is for surge protection. Fuses are amperage rated. And for collector cars this is more original.
I've been having trouble getting the tiny nut back on the starter because the fusable link is so close to the terminal end. Didn't know it was a fusable link until now though. So I should be able to purchase one at the Auto store that sits a bit further down the wire and cut the old one off and splice in the new and heat shrink some protection on the splice? Does this sound like the best option? I was also considering putting a few washers on the starter bolt and solving it that way. What option do y'all recommend? Don't know how they got it tight at the factory. It's a 88 Chevy c35 by the way. Clicks but starter don't turn over. Starter was good and I replaced the positive end at the battery and trying to get this little wire bolted back onto the starter to see if issue is solved
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC I discovered that there was another nut at the very bottom of the post and so I moved it up and used it to sandwich the connection. The Chevy is alive now. Thank you for taking the time to provide your suggestions. Much love
There is nothing more satisfying than running into a short succinct well done video on a subject, especially considering all of the superfluous garbage out there. My respect and thanks to you sir.
Thank you for the video it was the best explanation I have ever seen about feasible links. Thank you sir for the knowledge
I just started on my wiring project and my kit came with fusible link. Which the installation guide specifically says to hook up the link.
Also my car is 1947 Dodge Deluxe! Thanks foe the video!
Awesome. Good luck. We sure would like to see your “Ride” when you get it done. Thank you
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC I will be sure to send you pictures.
It's not needed but yea it gives protection for if the battery is hooked up wrong or wires touch when they shouldn't or your wiring harness shits the bed
Smart man putting them in that location I gota rip my whole set up off and the intake to replace mine
Well done video on protecting automotive electrical work.
Just the information I was looking for! Thanks, Wiring up an EZ Wire harness in my 65 Chevy C-10 Truck and almost ready to hook up the battery! But need to put the fusible link first
Let us know how it all works out for you.
Thank you sir I enjoyed the video and I learned a lot and I have a card it's a fusible link you just gave me an idea of my problem was thank you thank you so much I'm very grateful I just happened to scope along here and then I looked at it and now yes thank you thank you
thank you for you're time and you're video 🙏
Hello Larry! Thank you for this valuable tip I have been looking for. Such an easy to understand and practical approach. Question? At 1:03 of video, you said you installed 16g links to/on the power feed of the car. Is that power feed the wire from the Alternator to solenoid or something else? Thanks so much! Blessings from Michigan.
The car has a generator not an alternator, with a external voltage regulator, so those two power feed wires run the fuse panel and the voltage regulator for the charging system and it connects right at the battery cable on the solenoid to protect the whole system.
Thank you sir for the informative tutorial.
Thank you for watching
Can I replace a fusible link with a regular fuse of appropriate size? Thank you.
Yes you can, but remember fusible link is surge protection. It is not rated. If you want to replace it, you need to understand and figure out what amperage of a fuse you will need. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much
What’s the purpose of having a FL instead of a fuse which is much easier to replace especially in the middle of a blizzard?
Fusible link is surge protection from a short circuit. A fuse is amperage rated. You may be able to switch out a fuse but the short in the system still remains and you need to track the short down or you will blow fuse after fuse. You may want to watch our video specifically on Fusible Link.
thank you! Very helpful.
Glad it helped
I'm working on a 85 Dodge Ram D-350 flat bed trk 360/727 60 thousand miles on trk
Why would you install 2 fusible links for the power feed of the car instead of just 1 (at the beginning of the video)?
One is for key on power and the other is for constant power.
Thanks for the great information!
Great video. If I was to install a higher amperage alternator on my 2003 suburban do I need to increase the size of my fusible link. I have a 14 gauge one on it now that came on it from factory. And I want to put on a 160amp alternator.
From my research on this very thing this week, my 100 amp alternator would require at least an 8 gauge wire to my starter solenoid. You are probably looking at a 4 g. The ground wire from alt to engine block can be smaller like a 8g, but research that. I run 8g and ground is 10g.
Sorry for the delay in my response. In our shop, we run 12 g fusible link. That’s what the Dodge Diesel has. If you have any questions, give us a call.
Thanks for uploading this information. I have a few questions. If you have two 16g wires to the heavy gauge wire, what gauge is that main wire you're using? Also, can I have several different gauge wires going to 1 fusible link, if so, how would you do the math to find out which gauge link to use?
In most cases original equipment manufactures only use a maximum of two wires for a fusible link connection. With that in mind, the best way for you to figure out what size fusible link you need, is by figuring out what size wires that you were trying to connect to. Honestly most are 10 gauge but I wouldn’t guarantee it.
I'm just having trouble reading a diagram with a fusible link. It shows the wire of interest splitting at a connector/splice towards a fusible link and separately towards an EEC relay. Continuity before splice up to EEC relay checks out. Does that mean the fusible link is also good?
Are you talking about just a diagram? Or a project you are working on? If it’s a diagram, can you email me a picture of it to info@heielectric.com? If you are working on a project you should be able to just check the continuity on each side of the fusible link.
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC I sent you the diagram through email. I was actually using the diagram to repair one of my vehicles.
Flame and smoke at 4:37?? What about adjacent wiring such as those bundled in a loom?
Fusible link burns so quickly that it shouldn't affect your adjacent wiring. And just so we are clear, fusible link itself, would *NEVER be in loom* . Typical it is connected onto the power feed. I hope this answers your question.
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC Thank you for your reply.
all these old vehicles really should be updated with atc fuses and box
Thank you for getting back to me,...I am a senior trying to help out my son with is '50 chev truck.
It is an '86 s10 frame with the original 2.8l v6. It has a aftermarket temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and an ammeter.
It also has a 3wire alternator. One main positive post, and a #1 and #2 terminal. I hooked the ammeter from the #2 terminal, went to the ammeter, then from the ammeter to the battery positive.
Of course, that does not work. I hooked up a set of these gauges back in 1972 with some help, but today, am scratching my head.
Can you help? Thank you.
OK, your alternator in that series of truck would be about 100 Amps. I’m assuming you have a 60 amp ammeter. that would be too much current through the ammeter. However, to hook it up, the battery wire off the alternator hooks to one side of the ammeter and all your power feed loads also go on that side. The remaining side just goes to the battery like you have it. my suggestion would be to do away with the ammeter and put a voltmeter in it. Most cars have volt meters, because the amperage is too high for an ammeter. Also a volt meter is easier to hook up. Just needs small wires, one to key on and a ground wire. Hope this helps.
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC ...most kind of you to respond so quickly. You likely have forgotten more than I know.
Is there a way to tell the amperage of the alternator? Does it say somewhere?
Can a burnt fusible link cause to shutdown the car as a dead battery ? Specially after closing the engine . Thank you
I sent understand your question as it is written here. Sorry
To protect an alternator wire, would you use 2, one at the alternator and another at the battery?
No, it’s always on the battery end.
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC Thank you. The thought I had is, if possibly the wire grounded somehow between the alternator and battery and it is fused at the battery only, the power would be cut from the battery, but the alternator would still feed voltage the length of wire to where it grounded out. Is that possible or am I thinking too much or incorrectly?
How many Amp do you think people need for say a modern EFI car with lots of electric accessories, cooling fans etc VS an old 50s hotrod with basically maybe a heater and windscreen wipers and thats it?
Modern cars lean more towards mega fuses. In some cases, we have seen as high as 10 g. fusible link. Hope this helps.
Wow that;s good onfo😁
I'm having trouble understanding the choke point of a fusible link. If I go from a 10 gauge to a 14 gauge fusible link, didn't I just negate the utility of the 10 gauge?
No the 10 gauge wire is doing the job. The 14ga fuse link is a short wire that will not disrupt the load because it’s so short. But provides short surge protection. Watch our video on the 1950 Dodge Coronet to see how we used fusible link there. How this answers your question.
Thank you
Thank you for this very informative video.
Wondering if you can advise where I can connect an aftermarket ammeter.
I know to connect one lead to the battery positive from the ammeter,..but I do not know where to connect the other wire of my ammeter.
I am using a 10 gauge wire.
Are you running a generator? Alternator, etc? It will make a difference.
Why not a fuse block or circuit breaker ?
Because fuse blocks and fuses are amperage rated. Fusible link is a surge protection. How this helps. If you have more questions please let us know.
I thought the same thing. It looks like there needs to be a drastic short or current overcharge to burn through the fusible link, whereas a fuse or circuit breaker would be a simple short. That’s the way I understood it.
You are correct. Fuses are amperage rated. We promote the fusable link as a surge protection just like the original original equipment manufactures do. Hope this helps
I have a 1990 Dodge b250 with fusible link issues I seriously considered putting an alternative on but there is literally nothing out there that works in the same manner You have to kind of fake it and I don't want to do that. My plan is to unravel the rat's nest and disconnect one at a time and reconnect a new fusible link on each one. Given they're all so old I don't see any good alternative. I really wish I could see what it look like under all that! It's such a mess.. not even sure exactly how many fusible links there are! Six or seven I think..
Nissan D21 pickups use fuseable links.
Can I replace those with a fuses
Fusible Link are surge protection and are not amperage rated. If you know the amperage you need then yes you can use fuses.
Thank you for your reply. I have an 88 d21 and there’s 3 fusible links that were missing from previous owner, do you think 30 amp fuse replacement will be on the safe side?
Is a fusible link just a smaller gauge wire?
No. It is a Fuse Type material not just any wire. Hope that helps
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC
Great, Thank You
That system I can do for a rx-7 1985
I gave a Kubota tractor with a fusable link which I can see. What exactly is the link connecting?
It is protection to the Power Feed to the tractor.
y a fusible link, instead of a cleaner, safer, easier to replace fuse? i imagine theirs Some kinda of benefit.. theirs gotta b otherwise it would just b plain stupid to Not use a fuse..
All the original equipment manufacturers used fusible link. If you didn’t know fusible link is for surge protection. Fuses are amperage rated. And for collector cars this is more original.
4:25 Thanks for wasting a fusible link educating for us.
Fuse is easier to replace
Yes, but they weren’t available in 1950.
Sorry I meant car
I've been having trouble getting the tiny nut back on the starter because the fusable link is so close to the terminal end. Didn't know it was a fusable link until now though. So I should be able to purchase one at the Auto store that sits a bit further down the wire and cut the old one off and splice in the new and heat shrink some protection on the splice? Does this sound like the best option? I was also considering putting a few washers on the starter bolt and solving it that way. What option do y'all recommend? Don't know how they got it tight at the factory. It's a 88 Chevy c35 by the way. Clicks but starter don't turn over. Starter was good and I replaced the positive end at the battery and trying to get this little wire bolted back onto the starter to see if issue is solved
So I would recommend washers if possible and be sure to keep all those wires away from the start terminal.so that your starter doesn’t engaged.
@@HagemeisterEnterprisesINC I discovered that there was another nut at the very bottom of the post and so I moved it up and used it to sandwich the connection. The Chevy is alive now. Thank you for taking the time to provide your suggestions. Much love