Linear Valve Offset Procedure for a Gen 2 Prius using Toyota Techstream. Potential Fix for C1345.
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Tutorial on how to do a Linear Valve Offset Procedure for a Gen 2 Prius using Toyota Techstream. This has the potential to fix C1345 (Not learning Linear Valve) and C1256 (Low Accumulator Pressure). But it is not a gurantee.
How do you get working software and dongle ?
You can get cracked software on ebay and sometimes Amazon as well as the Mini VCI Cable. Search Toyota Techstream and Mini VCI Cable on Amazon/Ebay.
Can't recommend one specifically as the seller I bought from is no longer available.
@@JoMophee you might want to use the Topdon Topscan rather than cracked software. It would probably be about the same price.
Thanks for saving my Prius. I was getting all sorts of codes before I calibrated my new skid control unit.
Thanks! This was a life saver, Joe.
Awesome tutorial now I hv to get my hands on the program and panasonic device. And brake flush would need to of been done first if replacing actuator?
thank you for video. going to give a try. on a 2008 prius that i just got,
The AUTEL MK808 will do the linear valve re calibrate on 2011 Prius. The TopDon TopScan has the function also but i have not tried it. I used the Autel on a 2011 with very noisy brakes and afterward it threw the 1345 code. I replaced the Master cylinder and pump $1100. You need a scan tool or tecstream if you replace the master cylinder.
My MK906 wouldn't on a 2nd gen. You're luckier than me apparently.
I tried on the Topdon and it went through the procedure but didn’t clear the codes C1345 and C1368. I’m thinking the clear memory function on ten Topdon didn’t work. That’s the only thing I need to do.
so the autel would be able to air bleed and calibrate and I assume the air bleed needs to be done before calibration? I have a 2011 prius with code C1252, C1253, C1256 and about to replace both brake pump and brake booster.
@@Btu555 There is a bleed to use after replacing the booster. It will have you bleed the screw that is on the booster. You leave the cowl off so you can get to it. I think that you need to bleed, then reset memory, then the linear, then you need to do the steering yaw rate. You don't mess with the steering but it gets erased when you do the memory reset. Have the car level when you do the bleed if you can because it needs to be level when you do the steering. Look at your scantool connected so that you can find the screens you need. I did a 2010 last week but i used the Vdiag VD70. There are 2 good videos for replacing the booster and pump. I would have a quart and 1/2 of brake fluid. You will use a lot in the process.
@@diydantex6150 Thank you for a quick reply and all the tips.
mine stop half the way, do you think is a problem with the hardware unit or air in the system
Do you need to do this after changing the ABS Pump Actuator? I did the bleeding process using Techstream but I didn't do this afterwards. No codes.
Yes you should do the linear valve offset procedure after changing the pump. Probably not 100% necessary as I'm sure the Prius attempts to detect the valve positions without the calibration... but the Calibration will ensure it is working 100% correctly.
just curious, what codes did you have before replacing the actuator?
@@Btu555 I actually didn't have any codes but the pump would go on frequently enough to drain my 12V battery.
Hi What was the code or condition you were fixing?
My Prius accumulator keeps running after pulling the key and shutting the driver door.
hello. Where did you get that program? Did you have to buy it and how much does it cost in general?
It's called Toyota Techstream... it's an official Toyota Program for maintaining toyota vehicles.
You can get cracked versions off of Amazon from China for around $100 with the MVCI cable included which is what I did.
@@JoMopheethought it was on ebay
Is this required to get the abs to start pumping?/providing pressure?
what wrong when the lights do not brink
Not a guarantee? W a new actuator would it be guarantee
Yes if the error codes were caused by a faulty Accumulator/Actuator... a New one should fix the errors and brake issues.
Do you have a link for the software and dongle that will work like yours ?