ENGINE PROBLEMS on my Cheap 150K Mile Porsche 996 Turbo
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2022
- Rescuing a beat up Porsche 996 911 Turbo! While this thing is in pretty terrible shape, the work continues as I try to restore it from abuse and neglect by the previous owner.
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Boost leak would be less boost, not more. You need to look at the vacuum lines to the wastegate actuators if they are leaking or disconnected the actuator sees no boost and holds the wastegate closed. Also possible the previous owner put in a boost controller or an ECU flash.
If the wastegates are closed the car will make more boost. Its common to drill small holes in the wastegate signal lines to in fact create a "boost leak" keeping the gates shut and making more overall boost pressure in the intake.
I do understand where you are coming from though, he is checking for a boost leak in the intake. Which I'm not sure if this can be accurately checked by pressurizing the long block?
Wastegate actuators? Didn't know my future porsche had those, must see the video!.
You can buy smoke tablets cheap. Pop them in the boost pipe and then cap off and apply pressure. I'm wondering if the pressure is going past the rings. Left bank smokes, possibly liner damage. I'd get a bore scope and take a look either way.
Love the videos! Your major boost leak will be your intercoolers, remove the rear bumper to access them, mine was the same couldn’t get any pressure in the system at first. Mine had rotted and split in various places, good luck 👍🏼
If the fuel pressure is bleeding off when the engine is off, this could be the reason for the extra cranks/slow start. Try cycling the key twice before start to give it extra prime time. I don't own a Porsche but had it work on a different vehicle. Need to find leak - bleeding back to tank or into engine? Oil smell like fuel? .... Leakdown test: nice Schrader valve fab. I am not a turbo guy so this is just a thought - is the air going in to the intake and leaking through an open exhaust valve? You might need to isolate at the throttle / IAC valve and see if it is piping between. Maybe that is a dumb idea, just spit-ballin'. Good luck.
Yep, that's what it sounds like when starting. The fuel pressure has leaked off, most likely the injectors need serviced or replaced. Fuel with ethanol can take its toll on injectors if the vehicle has sat for any extended period of time.
Good comment, I have the same issue on my 2001 SAAB 9-3, it has a bad one way valve at the sending unit that allows fuel to bleed back into the tank when the car sits. If it is parked for more than a couple hours I need to cycle the key to prime it one extra time before starting. Otherwise it will start rough and act like it's running out of gas before smoothing out. Unfortunately they don't make that part anymore so I haven't replaced it.
I was also thinking that maybe his boost leak failed because the pressure was going past the throttle body? If the intake/exhaust valves are in a position where they are open wouldn't the pressure leak past? Maybe I am mistaken on the theory with that though.
you should have boost leak checked with the y pipe up at the throttle body. also remove the rear bumper and check to see if the end caps of the intercoolers are leaking. if they're stock coolers with plastic end caps, they are prone to leak. the check valves on the upper portion of these motors suck but once you get these boost leaks taken care of the cars going to be a rocket ship again
don't bother with a smoke test because thats not going to do anything with this check valves in the car. here's the link to markskis pressure test how to. I have the kit he makes if you want to borrow it I can send it out to you ( im in NJ)
ruclips.net/video/IGsaNPTeExg/видео.html
The stopwatch on the cold start up had me in tears. 🤣 I really am enjoying the (old yeller)Porsche content. 👍🇨🇦
Haha, thanks!
@@matt13ross what car hydraulic lift are you using?> can you link?
Keep grinding. You’ll get there.
Replace the rotors and have the calipers blasted and powder coated locally. You would be amazed how cheap it is and you can pick the color.
Block off the throttle plate, the air pressure would just bleed past it.
And the vacuum line you left off was the purge valve solenoid, hence the code.
Also, with some of the comment below regarding the boost leak.
You need to remove the charge pipe from the intake and plug it. With it connected to the throttle
Body you are injecting air into the engine which if any of the pistons are in the overlap on the cam then your air is just exiting straight out your exhaust. Which could be a reason why your not seeing any pressure build up
First check one charge pipe at a time by plugging it. Then use the smoke test when the engine is running to see where the smoke gets pushed away from the charge pipe or intake by leaking air.
Finally, if that doesn’t work. Use carburetor cleaner to slowly spray around the entire intake system. Carburetor cleaner burns, but not at the same AF as gasoline so the engine will slightly stumble after it ingests it. Go slow because you’ll need to allow for the delay between the spray and the effect. (Yes, even a boosted charge pipe can suck in air because of the pressure difference between the charged air and the charged carb cleaner can)
Love the 996 absolute Dream Car!
You’ll get it to where you want just like you always do.
I love your presentation to camera...no BS & you seem to know what you are doing! Good work!!
Thanks for the kind words!! But I often don't know what i'm doing lol.
On your passenger window and seat - check your vapor barrier inside the door which normally allows the rain to enter the outside of the window and into the door, but stay on the outside of the plastic barrier inside, away from door electronics, and the rain just drains out the bottom of the door.
When the vapor barrier is bad the rain will get through and into the door electronics (including your window switch). It also will soak into the floor and into your seat control box under your seat and can short it out.
I had both those issues on my 997 and replaced the barrier, the switch, and the seat controller (which mine wasn't saving the memory settings but would still operate the seat at least) and everything has been perfect for a year.
Those vapor barriers can dry rot if the car is outside for its life.
Thanks! Yea I've got to remove the door panel and see what's going on. It's odd the window works fine, but the auto feature doesn't, even when swapping switches. Plus it doesn't move right when opening and closing the door.
@@matt13ross oh you changed the switch? Yeah that's odd. That window clearing feature activates on your door handle switch it's weird that it's randomly doing that. That's no help to you but it's weird. Gotta be the electronics in there don't you think?
Video's are entertaining and enjoy your banter and humility .....thinking you know more than you don't. certainly not that......keep up the good work. Your a natural in front of the camera!
Thanks for the kind words! Took a long while to get used to the camera for sure lol.
Just watched all of your porsche videos and can’t wait to see more!!!
Thanks for the support!
Like others have said. Smoke test! I just went through the same thing and couldn't believe I had never done a smoke test before. Such a good tool. I used soldering iron , Mason Jar, and baby oil. Pumped in smoke and find leaks in seconds. Great job on the video yet again, you have a talent for it, keep it up!
Thank you!
I admire your resolve to sort one of the more complex automobiles. I would start by doing a bore-scope and a cylinder compression check. It's very likely a secondary owner put a "tune" on the engine and hot-rodded the shit out of it. As such, you want to know quickly what the general health of the engine is. The compression check will give a clue on rings and valve leakage. After that, look at the turbo and injectors. If you have blue smoke on acceleration, you'll have rebuild something internal, but hey that's the fun of trying to bring this beast back to full health.
Yup, planning on more diagnostics.
Just found your first video on the 996 and binge watched all of them. I have a Speed Yellow 997 (2005). Great car.
Thanks for the support! I've never had yellow before this, I love it!
I want a 996 so bad. I love everything about them and especially when they’re yellow, red, blue, with contrasting accents.
Excellent car and video.
Thank you! Most of them are silver or grey though haha.
Go with 997.
@@BuckMcAntlerson Have a 997.1 targa, and love it. The 996 is just as good as the other 911's IMO, and, the IMS is a non-issue for me, as well as the headlights. As long as the market doesn't change too much they are pretty affordable around $25k , and definitely an investment when considering their appreciation in the market, but more so among enthusiasts.
There are a bunch of how to’s on RUclips on how to make a small smoke generator. They are very handy for boost checks, evap leaks. Just some pvc parts a filament wire and some mineral oil.
Also pull the rear bumper so you have access to the intercooolers. You could have a cracked end tank bad hose connection etc.
loving this bro, keep it up!
Never clicked so fast! Thank you!
great videos! I'm doing something similar but with a subaru, watching the progress on this car is good motivation to make progress on mine!
I'm glad, now get to wrenching!!
So happy to see a 996 turbo brought back to life! I recently completed my own 996 project Carrera (also yellow with terrible rims!) and I have a stock 996 turbo. The Mezger in is an incredible engine in theory relative to the base model 3.6L flat six but obviously this one has seen a lot of mistreatment in it's day.
Batteries will be a constant issue - change and then keep on trickle charger.
The Fabspeed mods can be very good especially exhaust system but the intake is one of the more questionable performance upgrades from third party vs OEM especially in warmer climates/summertime given the already somewhat restricted airflow to the rear mounted engine and the specific design Porsche implemented to resolve that. An IPD plenum can provide an improved performance on the intake in my experience but other than adding a high performance filter any other extra intake system cost or mod likely isn't worth it.
My experience is MAF is a common issue with my 996's, you definitely feel it on start up and driving power loss/inconsistency since the fuel mix can run too rich or lean because of it. It can lead to misfires and inconsistent startups (along with battery), then the plugs themselves can be a common issue causing misfire and poor startup/power inconsistency worth checking.
I have not had any issues with turbo but I know the intercooler lines can be a a common issue (resolved by previous owner for me no issues since)
Great videos good luck!
also even once you solve the turbo system leak issue, these things do have a decent turbo lag as well in my experience
On his way to 100K ! Keep up the great work!
Thanks!! Let's goooo!
Heck yeah Matt
Matt just found your channel. Cool project! Hey if I can give you one small pice of advice please: if you jack up the back of your car make sure the front is chocked because that thing will roll back on you when you jack it up and the ebrake is off the ground. I got my shoulder broken when. My impala rolled back and crushed me into the garage door.
Thanks for the tip!
New to your channel…good stuff..subbed…looks like it’s coming along nicely. Looking forward to more 996 Por-Sha vids.
Thanks for the support! Por SHA LOL!!
Diverter valve (could be boost leak issue). Known issue with that car. Had to replace mine.
Great video series !!
I'll look that up, thanks!
Hey Matt, many thanks for the great content! Are you planning to go the alignment shop soon? I am cringing for your new tires ^^
Cheers
Deciding on if I want to do some suspension mods first!
Put a smaller diameter pipe between two PVC caps like you already and plumbers glue them together. Have a open hole at one end and your tyre valve at the other. When you get 20 psi that cap you have is going to blowout and hit you in the face.
The hose clamp can bite on the smaller diameter pipe between the caps and won’t blow off.
Spray soapy water around the area you think has a leak and look for the bubbles, I still think it’s your fuel pressure regulator, deep down on the passenger side in the engine bay.
Man, I am so addicted to this series. As hard as you are working this has pretty much sold me on either a 996 turbo or a 997 carrera
Turbo > Carrera for sure!
@@matt13ross I'm leaning towards it
@@matt13ross if i can find one for the right price that has been looked after sure failing that i know of a few 997s i can pick up near me
997 > 996
Problem with a lot of 996s is that they were so disliked and so cheap for a long time that a lot of dudes thrashed them and they end up like this one. Now if you're skilled and have the time and money to rebuild like this guy, you can do it. Hell make videos of all the work bc these are awesome!
But 997 is the superior car. Porsche fixed several things from the 996 gen.
All that being said, 996 is still a Porsche and still a great piece of driving machinery regardless!
If you do get 996 Turbo is the only way to go bc of the Metzger engine is far less prone to issues.
Have to admit that I didn't like you much in the beginning, but you're warming up. I like the way that you do stuff and your attention to detail. Keep up the good work, greetings from South Africa. !!!
Haha, glad you don’t think I’m so bad after all!
Can't boost leak test against the throttle plate. It doesn't seal. Block the y pipe connection and retest. Though it was likely the boost control solenoid you left the hose off of.
You have to put a block off at the throttle body. Boost leak test is for the charge pipes not the vacuum lines. You need a smoke test for the intake manifold.
I'll be shopping for a 996 soon. Not gonna look for a turbo. I'll be focusing on suspension and weight reduction before power since I mainly want to autocross or go to the occasional track day.
A fun fact is that an LS will fit in that bay with room to spare (and should be lighter), so even if my future project decides to detonate, I have a plan
C2? At least so it has some hips!
I'd consider an LS swap if my engine blew up lol.
Commenting for support!
THANK YOU!
nniicccee, advice with GT2 wing rear window wiper delete would be a great thing 😉
I've used the rear wiper already lol.
Smoke a cigar and blow smoke through the brake booster line and look for the smoke seeping out. if it's suspected of leaking before the throttle body (ie. intercoolers) then hold the throttle body open.
The stock has plastic diverter valves were leaking on ours. Get some new ones (we went aftermarket) regardless as they are cheap and the diaphragms fail.
The valve you left disconnected is the N75 boost control valve. Your pressure test should work the way you have it, try that again. I'd just leave those brakes they all dust hard.
Check the solenoid valve,gates on the turbos and make smoke test so you can see where it leaks.
Over boost was N75 valve. Boost leak, listen to the air intake with filter housing removed. BOVs dump back to the intake. Leaky BOVs will cause that size leak which you should hear. Also, unless your car is tuned, 1.1 bar is high for boost pressure. Wastegate may be altered or sticking. Fuel pressure should be checked with pump on. If normal, you might have leaky injectors causing bleed down. Is it running rich? Try Techron fuel additive for a couple of tanks and see what happens.
Need to get the fuel pressure adapter to test fully.
I had similar boost leaks using same process - I had to replace all the vacuum lines under the diverter valve area and replace both diverter valves. Totally fixed my leaks. Makes .8 bar now.
Hint: I lowered engine and replaced both engine mounts at same time. You can’t easily get to the diverter valves unless you lower the engine!
I ended up doing all that in the later videos.
Boost leak test a side and section it ie
From turbo pipe to y pipe each side that way you’ll know the coolers and piping is good or not
Loving this series! I noticed you use both Ryobi and Milwaukee tools. Which ecosystem did you get into second, and why?
Thanks! Slowly making the switch to Milwaukee. More expensive, but they have a much larger line of automotive tools.
Came for the ZR2, stayed for the 996. Great channel.
Thanks, I'm glad you stuck around!
smoketest the boost lines, easiest way to spot leakage.
Brake pads and rotors? Call FCP Euro and see what they say. They have a lifetime warranty on everything they sell so, pad replacement from here on out will be free.
Good call!
For the boost leak test you need to test from the turbo till before the throttle body or else the air can go through the open valves in the head which tells you nothing
I have a 996tt with EVO GT750 turbos and have had a lot of boost leak issues. Might want to check the clamps on the intercoolers, and the y-pipe is notorious for slipping off the throttle body. Also, need to check all of the connections on the N75 valve and all of the vacuum lines. There's a 90 degree vac line just to the left of the throttle body that is notorious for tearing/leaking. I used Dorman turbo clams everywhere I could. Hope that helps!
Yup, will check all that!
@@matt13ross A Durametric tool is also great for running diagnostics on the 996, plugs right into the OBD2 port and connects to your PC, I used mine a lot to see record live data.
Look up how Markski Tuning does his boost test. CV#16 is way up there in front iirc.
Could your just spray soapy water on the pipes while it’s running and see if your getting bubbles and that would reveal a boost leak. I agree with the comment previously. If you don’t have the exhaust valves closed it will just blow thru on your test. Good shit tho man. Keep at it! Love the channel and content. Real people doing real work on a budget.
Valve overlap may be letting pressurized air leak through the intake valve and out the exhaust on one cylinder when you were performing that boost leak test
There should always be at least one cylinder with that happening though.
You have a vacuum leak somewhere (which is why you hear a hissing) however, this would not cause you to make more boost...you would make less.
Also, if the previous owner installed a tune, 1.1 bar of boost is pretty normal.
I'm in Baltimore, if you need a hand, reach out
It was .6 bar before I fixed some things. I’m guessing it had a leak before too, but now it’s worse and perhaps something broke.
@@matt13ross I'm not there with you to see your procedure. I can only see what I see in the video. With that said, it takes a little time to actually fill up the charging system with compressed air, probably more than you think it should.
If you're able to make 1.1 bar now, your boost leak isn't that big. It's probably a broken vacuum line or check-valve.
Next time you do a test, keep introducing air until you make roughly 20psi. Have a spray bottle ready, filled with soapy water and start spraying where you think you hear the hissing. If you hit the leak in question, you will start generating tiny bubbles. Keep introducing compressed air(making sure not to exceed 20psi) and keep spraying. You'll eventually find it
I was added compressed air for at least 10 seconds multiple times, never having positive pressure. I could also hear what I believe is air coming out somewhere on top of the engine.
I had a similar problem on a mercedes sprinter where I would get an over boost message when the van was under load. I spent a full day looking for leaks with no results. It turned out to be the ambient air temp sensor. I guess without that the ecu could not determine the air density and was over boosting. Just a thought.
Smoke machine to help diagnose leaks. As far as brakes. I’d look at FCP Euro.
Remove the MAF sensor and clean with brake fluid , it’s very similar to my old B7 RS4 , make such a difference if your running lumpy 👍
Contact cleaner, not brake cleaner. The latter is too corrosive and can damage the MAF.
@@MattSilverlock that’s the stuff 👍
Just paint the hats on the rotors if they're still good. That's what I did and they look 100% better. Calipers look good. Go with steel brake lines from FCP Euro. Are those wheels that you're selling original or after market?
If the air leaking is from the air filter and left side of the engine, it might be the #16 check valve that is leaking. Just replaced mine.
Instead of the tire valve on the pressure cap put on air fitting and connects the air to it. Set the regulator to 15 psi and shut the compressor off so it won't turn on while you are looking for the leak. That's how a boost leak on my old Audi.
Has to build some pressure first, which it isn't yet.
The best way to test for boost leak in cold side of turbo/intercooler is to block at the turbo and at the throttle body........
If that is good...then start looking at vaccum/boost hoses and BOV............
Pro tip. you should torque your wheel nuts to 90 fp. Not just drive them down with a impact.
Yo, let’s go!!
Not sure if this car is the same but on my 944 turbo 1 bar is 0 psi (being atmospheric pressure) and anything over that would be positive boost and under would be negative pressure (vacuum) any extra air is still better than NA though!
Do you know for sure it’s overboosting? What is factory boost setting? And could it have a tune/aftermarket boost controller?
should be .6, which it was before.
I find hard to believe that it's a car that hasn't been tuned. Just look at the filter, nobody does that without cranking up the pressure a bit. FYI my tuned 2004 996 Turbo, single owner (myself) has about 1 to 1.1 bar of pressure that it seems to me is what you have now after fiddling with the hose. (pressure depends on weather and driving style). You may have the same mapping and that would be a good thing.
Yellow calipers on a Porsche means it came with PCCBs (ceramic brakes). They last over 100K miles and Jane no brake dust. When they need replacing, they’re almost as expensive as an engine rebuild, though. Have to pulled the build sheet yet? Did it come with PCCBs? Lots of people go change to steel rotors instead of paying to replace.
Hrm, certainly don't look like ceramic brakes to me. How do I get the build sheet?
Although not a porsche, my nissan had slow crank and no fuel pressure after shutting it down. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator (all in one assembly on my nissan) and problem solved.
Go with powerstop extreme pads no brake dust
and for the boost leak maybe the plenum ?? O2 sensor, or worse exhausts cats...
Others have commented, but a boost leak will not cause over boost. That's a wastegate problem (sticky actuator?) Unless it has the k24 upgrade and x50 flash?
It would not read 1.2bar if it was venting pressure, it would read lower that. Interesting though that the K24 X50 upgrade is 1.2bar.
Right, but before me fixing the crank seal it was .6 at max (stock). Now it’s over boosting, which can still happen with boost leaks, just makes the turbos over work.
@@matt13ross boost pressure on the dash is read from the intake manifold on most cars.
If you are losing charge air before the intake manifold through a leak, it will not read higher. If you have a leak and it's reading 1.2 at the intake sensor, then the turbos are pushing a lot more than 1.2
Before you changed the crank seal, and cleared the engine codes, you also changed a maf sensor? Did it only boost .6 after changing the maf sensor, before the crank seal?
Considering you think the cats and exhaust are aftermarket, it could have the K24 upgrade turbos, which would boost 1.2. and the ECU would have limited boost because of the MAF sensor.
This series somehow inspired me to buy a 986 boxster with a 996 carrera engine swap 🥴
GOOD! lol I'm glad.
1.5 BAR of boost is a lot for a 996 T. This equal to 21 PSI so it could be modded and the normal values are around .8-.9. Keep up the good work, but why would you test for a boost leak? It seems you're overboosting.
It was at .6 before, so something is missing or broken.
you should by a smoke tester on amazon i don't think they're that expensive and that'll help find the leak
Nice video . I would Like to make a Smoke test if you have thé Machine.
add smoke to the system, that should give you an idea of where the boost leak is comming from
I may end up doing that after some more diagnosing.
might wanna check spark plugs aswell doesnt seem like this thing was maintained very well and i know they suck so they probably haven't been changed in a while if you haven't already
I’ll be changing them for sure. Lots of maintenance parts like that coming soon.
overboost = wategate actuators or wastegates remaining closed. Did PO add manual boost control? If not are the wastegates stuck shut? If not, are the lines to the actuators reversed? If not are the solenoids functional?
Nah, it was working fine about a month ago at .6 bar.
Your boost leak test is going out the exhaust valves when the cam is at overlap
@Matt Ross, could you post the link to the cellphone holder you got. Nice install over there.
In the description box!
Yup like Dale stated I agree and think u have a flashed ECU..
It was .6 bar before I started working on it, I believe it's stock.
Your overboost problem might be the solenoid (N75) that regulates boost pressure, that wasn't connected and you tried to 'fix' with zipties.
I didn't try to fix it with zipties, they are preventative maintenance.
I'd dropped the entire motor and tranny scan over every hose, seals, crack lines, sensors, missing parts etc
In the future plans for sure. For now, I just want it together and running correctly.
block the holes off like you did and fill it with smoke. you will see it for sure
FCP Euro might have the parts you're looking for.
My 996TT is tuned (evoms) and it hits 1.1-1.2bar. I would guess that yours has been tuned to that and it’s not likely over boosting if it’s happening consistently.
It was at .6 bar about a month ago.
As for you not holding fuel pressure on the rail. More than likely your check valve is leaking.
The leak sounds like the #16 check valve…. Cheap and pretty easy to change…
Sebro discs and Textar pads…
I’m thinking it might be that valve too.
1.1bar is mapped.
0.8 is stock.
Boost leak won't cause more boost it causes less.
Right, but a boost leak in the wrong location (vac line) can cause a wastegate to not open correctly.
Why do you think you have. Boost leak? If it were leaking, it would be hard to make more boost than targeted.
Make sure to replace the IMS Bearing.
The Turbo models don't have that issue.
Maybe they put a different wastgate in to make more boost and didnt know they needed a tune
Stock gates, was at .6 bar before, something got messed up since I took it apart.
@@matt13ross maybe the Vacuum line that controls the wastegate if it is damaged or comes off it will make the pressure spike and throw the over boost code.
@@matt13ross the only other thing i can think of other that the line is the boost control Solenoid. Or the stock gates are stuck due to being dirty.
Is the Schroader valve open on the opposite side of the intake? Or is it capped
Hrm, not sure. More details?
Possible do a smoke test? Then you’d be able to see where the smoke is coming out of.
Yup, gotta get a machine first.
@@matt13ross there must be a way you can use your pressure tester with the PVC but somehow put smoke through it?
It takes a bit to fill up the system with air when doing a leak test . How long did you hold the air chuck for?
At least 10 seconds on multiple occasions. Leaking out too fast.
Bro you are killing it man good stuff
Thanks!
The system volume of air is a lot bigger than you would think. I’m thinking you definitely need way more air than you think to check for a leak.
I have a pretty large compressor, I think it's getting plenty of air. It won't even attempt to hold 1psi. Gotta be a big leak, maybe #16 check valve.
@@matt13ross gotcha. Great uploads so far btw. Great channel. Look forward to all the upcoming vids. Also was just thinking I was gonna say what about the wastegate being stuck open, but you did say maybe you’re OVERboosting?? So that would be a stuck closed symptom.
Thank you! Yea, too much boost now.
Sounds like #16 Check valve. Go to 13 minutes in and watch for about 1 minute for where the #16 check valve is located. ruclips.net/video/fip3YRH7aVw/видео.html
That’s my thought too Clint!
Did you take the stickers off your tires or did you drive on them???
They removed themselves lol.
@@matt13ross hell yeah
The long crank to start is probably a failed check valve in the fuel system ….
Good luck
My thoughts too.