I’m an Environmental Engineer who did electronics projects and repair as a hobby. After graduating I was struggling to find the right job. Videos like yours helped me a lot to learn electronics repair. Now I work as a Service Technician for environmental instruments and get paid like an engineer :) Cheers!
These videos are a wealth of knowledge that’s very rare. I started following you back when you had a few hundred subs and your channel has stood out. I believe you have had formal electronics education (an engineering bachelor degree? or masters?) and industrial electronics technician career?. But most importantly you have a passion for actual electronics and learning! There are plenty of electronics projects and electrical engineering channels but I’m not aware of many other channel that fixes a wide variety of electronics from laptops, GPUs, psus, etc on a troubleshooting and analytical level. Just about every other repair channel either specialises only one type of device Iike a phone or a laptop or MacBook alone or they are only soldering channels In the name of repair.
Actually I only have an A level education ,I left full time school at 18yrs. Later in my 20s I took a 12 month full time vocational 'City and Guilds' in Radio TV and Electronics Repair then worked as a Commercial/Industrial Electronics Repair engineer for about 10 years and took a 2 year HNC (night school 3 hours a week) in Microprocessor Circuit Design and Programming paid for by my employer. Other than that I'm self taught and oh YEAH I have a passion for electronics
@@LearnElectronicsRepair This reply proves anyone with a passion for electronics can learn and do this stuff. We're actually quite lucky in this day and age that we can learn off experienced techs. Much obliged for the vids and detailed explanation of ur thinking process.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Hi Rich, that's interesting as we have a very similar educational background. I did a City and Guilds Radio, TV and Electronics Technicians Course, at Matthew Bolton Tech, Birmingham UK, I seem to remember it finished with Colour TV and FM Stereo. I was about 17 at the time working for a small Radio and TV repair shop. Years later I did a 2 year Level 1 to 4 Microprocessor course again at Matthew Bolton while working for British Telecom, along with several other in house BT training courses. I'm now 65 and retired in the USA but still into Radio, TV, Computers and Electronics as a hobby. If we remain interested in these subjects, the fact is we never stop learning. Technology continues to progress faster that we can absorb it, but its fun trying to keep up !!
Great content. As the subjects taught by my electronic engineering degree fail to supply me with the knowlage to create and repair circuits this channel has been a great help in supplying me with the type of content I want to learn. Thank you for uploading and keep doing what your doing!
Very logical approach.. might have been interesting to see the behaviour of the circuit with prior to replacing the cap but the visual check was spot on. 👍😀
Great video, normally those PCBs are covered in an inch carpet of dust lol. The machine has 2 goals which are monitored by opto sensors and has a solenoid to stop the puck when the time is up or the score limit is reached. It also uses a set of 7 segment LED displays each side for the players score. There is the coin input which will finish off the purpose of the opto couplers going to the 3 small black connectors. Other than that it plays an annoying tune and has speech when goals are scored. The air pump kicks in as soon as the coins deposited reach the price of play determined by the dip switches, and the puck is released then too. Intrigued to find out why there are 2 motor drive chips though but I would imagine that the capacitor may we'll have sorted it. But bear in mind that the PCB probably was wrapped in a quilt of dust/carpet fibre so it may we'll have been running very hot,the customer never tells you that bit 🤫. Hopefully you won't have to go to site as once you heard the annoying tune it will be with you forever 😂🤣😂
16:15 - Going by all the work you just put in, I just now determined the reason for the 7a fuse blowing. You say here that this is the part of the circuit that was modified. If there were two stepper drivers and now the circuit by modification is being forced to operate with one, this may be the over current.
Hi Rich, That 5Volt reg you said you were going to replace, you said was giving out 5.6V but you measured 0.6 on the reference ground, so it is actually giving out 5V correctly above the 0.6V ref.
Well if it doesn't work I'll be making an on-site repair video. And he has several more faulty boards of the same type so even if thins one works you will see more of them soon
Hi Richard - how come you didn't measure the output of the 12V reg with the bad cap still in circuit? It could have pointed directly to where the problem was?
Hey, great videos. I’ve been following your repair videos, trying to learn electronics repair to help me find the problem with a faulty board from a machine at work. The board is made by kuhnke, a controller for pressure beam on a sandpaper machine, and it uses CAN communication. I haven’t been able to find something’s faulty on the board but There are 6 such boards in the machine and one faulty one among them affects the function of all of them, but once you take it off, it’s fine, that makes me assume it’s a fault on the CAN control part of the board, but I have no idea how to proceed. I would love if I could get any form of info that could help.
22:11 - You may be right about that. Some of your videos show you probing pins on a small chip by bending the probe as far as you might pull back on a bow to shoot a deer from 300 yards. Thanks for sharing all your _other_ techniques, though.
I have these same bendy brass needle probes - came in a kit of meter leads and alligator clips from Ali - bloody hopeless - if anyone. Has a link to some decent ones please let me know!!
I've learnt so much in the last few weeks of watching your vids.. Great work.. And I look forward to going back to watch your other vids too, while waiting for your next ;) As for this - be nice to see a catch up vid to see if it was the Cap causing the probs etc..
what an interesting journey across that board. It would be lovely to have a lesson on that isolated mains transformer, as I am just terrified every time I have to work on 220ac. I use a "serie" short circuit arragement (just an incandescent bulb in series with the device, whatever name that has in English) to at least have short circuit protection, but still fear a lot working close to the hot section. I guess also using an isolated ac supply will prevent earth loops when using an oscilloscope. Am I right?
Yes, if you have an isolation transformer then there is no earth or live or neutral, just 220VAC. So you can touch either of the 220V wires and you will not get a shock - as long as you only touch one at a time. This also means you can touch hot ground or connect your (earthed) oscilloscope to hot ground and nothing untoward will happen. Beware though, if you connect your earthed scope to one of the 220V wires, or hot ground, the other 220V wire becomes live - so don't touch it while the scope is connected or you will feel it!
I think its fixed, nice bright LED's and a resounding click of a relay certainly now is a good time to plug it into the game and confidently blame the cap !....cheers.
I'll let you all know. Before it goes back I'm gonna replace the 7805 that was giving about 5.6V output (and looks like it runs a bit hot) as well just for good measure. Apparently the guy who owns this one has three or four other faulty ones.
Enjoy watching your videos. The 7 amp fuse seems somewhat excessive in the 24 volt circuit if that is used only for the motors, since the motor drivers are rated at 1200mA Maximum current each. Taking into consideration the 'modification' to the motor drive circuit I'd be very suspect of that fuse rating.
Concur, if both motors are connected to one driver (perhaps after the other driver failed) then this is asking for trouble. May have damaged the remaining controller and 24V supply. My knowledge of that driver is limited but I believe you need both chips to drive a 2-phase stepper.
I don't know, it is working but the output voltage is slightly high at 5.6V though it may have no load if powering something off the board, but as I noted towards the end of the video I'm gonna replace it anyway before I send the PCB back. That regulator has no heatsink, where the other two do - so I one would assume from that, either it isn't supplying as much current as the others or has a lower voltage drop across it.
BTW after I changed that 5V regulator I still have 5.6V on the output. It's gone back to be tested on the air hockey table now. Apparently he has several more of these to repair
I'd be interested to know Richard, if it was that Puffy capacitor, I had a TV in that kept on turning off after a 3 or so minutes, if you left it off for a short while it would work again for 3 mins then off, it had 4 filter / reservoir capacitors, one had gone puffy, so I changed it and all was well, then I changed the other 3, because I think they would have been electrically stressed , unlike me mentally stressed by Friday🤣, great video.
24:45 I will hold the tip of the cleaning tool at the tip of the desoldering iron for a while and when the tip of the tool is hot insert it into the tube so it can melt the clog. Thanks for all your videos. 👍
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Another way to desolder parts that are on a ground plane that sucks up the heat is to 'preheat' that area of the board a bit with the hot air and then use the desolder gun.
@@patzik1910 Yes definitely - I do this a lot, see my videos recapping motherboards where I go one further and use both hands with the desoldering gun and hot air at the same time 🙂
Your job is cool brother but I would request you to make a video of the diy bluetooth speaker. In my country most people buy them alot hence they get spoiled in many ways and we don't have the schematic diagrams for those bluetooth motherboards. Give us a video explaining power movement and functions of somes IC's and other components since this small IC 's are still new to us and look more complex.
Dodgy repairs can be sometime good but not this one... If there was supposed to be one chip, manufacturer would make it on one. Some person "fixed" this by placing double load on single chip? DISGRACE. Since one chip is not in use, I would consider it bad, take it out, use diode mode, red probe on GND leg of chip, and black on each pin. Then make chart/table. Then remove from PCB second one, and measure, if they are the same, then they are both either dead or both good. Btw traces on this board look very old and damaged... also contacts of small chips look very dirty and almost shorted... This CN6 could be output for something, I didnt saw that u checked if 24V was present there. Dim brightness on screen means lower voltage... since system works OK with another board, problem is not on other parts.
I wonder where you get that theory from... Many arcade boards have empty sockets. Sometimes to allow the use of different size eproms, sometimes to runs other software, sometime for whatever reason. Anyhow, you definitely won't put any 'extra' load on an eprom if you would replace 2 with a single one. It's just a larger eprom with one or more extra address lines. And if you want to 'test' the eprom, don't be messing about with a multimeter, just put it in an eprom reader en read the content....
@@orion310591RS Well as it so happens - the board is not working in-situ so I will be going out to look at it next week on site. Regards the dodgy previous repair - I kinda assume it has been working like that for some time as I don't think that repair was new. I did work out what they have done and I also mentioned if I had replacement in stock I would have fitted it. Anyway it looks like we are gonna find out more about this faulty PCB soon so watch this space, as they say
kristian nikolaev Why is it unsalvageable? It didn't work after the attempts on this video so I spent a few hours mapping it out once I had a working one to compare with. Here: ruclips.net/video/d8mqF_hKwj0/видео.html I completed that work (plus a few more bad tracks I didn't find on the video but located afterwards) and took it back today to test, but the owner wasn't there so I have to wait the results And if that does not work, how about removing all the components, take photos of the PCB to make new ones, then fit all the components back to those. He has five of these all not working, plus one good one. I found today they cost ~€500 each to replace, so you could do a quite a lot of repair work for half that price yeah?
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m an Environmental Engineer who did electronics projects and repair as a hobby. After graduating I was struggling to find the right job. Videos like yours helped me a lot to learn electronics repair. Now I work as a Service Technician for environmental instruments and get paid like an engineer :) Cheers!
These videos are a wealth of knowledge that’s very rare. I started following you back when you had a few hundred subs and your channel has stood out.
I believe you have had formal electronics education (an engineering bachelor degree? or masters?) and industrial electronics technician career?. But most importantly you have a passion for actual electronics and learning!
There are plenty of electronics projects and electrical engineering channels but I’m not aware of many other channel that fixes a wide variety of electronics from laptops, GPUs, psus, etc on a troubleshooting and analytical level.
Just about every other repair channel either specialises only one type of device
Iike a phone or a laptop or MacBook alone or they are only soldering channels In the name of repair.
Actually I only have an A level education ,I left full time school at 18yrs. Later in my 20s I took a 12 month full time vocational 'City and Guilds' in Radio TV and Electronics Repair then worked as a Commercial/Industrial Electronics Repair engineer for about 10 years and took a 2 year HNC (night school 3 hours a week) in Microprocessor Circuit Design and Programming paid for by my employer. Other than that I'm self taught and oh YEAH I have a passion for electronics
@@LearnElectronicsRepair
This reply proves anyone with a passion for electronics can learn and do this stuff. We're actually quite lucky in this day and age that we can learn off experienced techs. Much obliged for the vids and detailed explanation of ur thinking process.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Hi Rich, that's interesting as we have a very similar educational background. I did a City and Guilds Radio, TV and Electronics Technicians Course, at Matthew Bolton Tech, Birmingham UK, I seem to remember it finished with Colour TV and FM Stereo. I was about 17 at the time working for a small Radio and TV repair shop. Years later I did a 2 year Level 1 to 4 Microprocessor course again at Matthew Bolton while working for British Telecom, along with several other in house BT training courses. I'm now 65 and retired in the USA but still into Radio, TV, Computers and Electronics as a hobby. If we remain interested in these subjects, the fact is we never stop learning. Technology continues to progress faster that we can absorb it, but its fun trying to keep up !!
We always learn something new, who cares how long it takes . I’m just glad you show us the process.
Great content. As the subjects taught by my electronic engineering degree fail to supply me with the knowlage to create and repair circuits this channel has been a great help in supplying me with the type of content I want to learn. Thank you for uploading and keep doing what your doing!
Very logical approach.. might have been interesting to see the behaviour of the circuit with prior to replacing the cap but the visual check was spot on. 👍😀
Oh hell yeah! So glad to see another one of these. I haven’t been this excited for a video since Schindler‘s list.
Hi guys welcome to it was laying down to go to bed, and realize that joke might be a bit too dark for this audience. 😬I guess we’ll see.
@@hullinstrumentsonly as dark as you meant it for such a light channel.
Great content as usual. Love these! Thank you for all your effort.
Heya, great vlog again love to see differant pcb from all kinds of applainces learning a lot like this thanks
Great video, normally those PCBs are covered in an inch carpet of dust lol. The machine has 2 goals which are monitored by opto sensors and has a solenoid to stop the puck when the time is up or the score limit is reached. It also uses a set of 7 segment LED displays each side for the players score. There is the coin input which will finish off the purpose of the opto couplers going to the 3 small black connectors. Other than that it plays an annoying tune and has speech when goals are scored. The air pump kicks in as soon as the coins deposited reach the price of play determined by the dip switches, and the puck is released then too. Intrigued to find out why there are 2 motor drive chips though but I would imagine that the capacitor may we'll have sorted it. But bear in mind that the PCB probably was wrapped in a quilt of dust/carpet fibre so it may we'll have been running very hot,the customer never tells you that bit 🤫. Hopefully you won't have to go to site as once you heard the annoying tune it will be with you forever 😂🤣😂
16:15 - Going by all the work you just put in, I just now determined the reason for the 7a fuse blowing. You say here that this is the part of the circuit that was modified. If there were two stepper drivers and now the circuit by modification is being forced to operate with one, this may be the over current.
I just took on a similar project repair, so was very helpful. Thx!
Hi Rich, That 5Volt reg you said you were going to replace, you said was giving out 5.6V but you measured 0.6 on the reference ground, so it is actually giving out 5V correctly above the 0.6V ref.
thank you, we are very lucky for your time, regards. 😺
Great video, can't wait to hear the follow up on this one.
Well if it doesn't work I'll be making an on-site repair video. And he has several more faulty boards of the same type so even if thins one works you will see more of them soon
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Ripper Richard! Good Onya!
Hi Richard - how come you didn't measure the output of the 12V reg with the bad cap still in circuit? It could have pointed directly to where the problem was?
Hey, great videos. I’ve been following your repair videos, trying to learn electronics repair to help me find the problem with a faulty board from a machine at work. The board is made by kuhnke, a controller for pressure beam on a sandpaper machine, and it uses CAN communication. I haven’t been able to find something’s faulty on the board but There are 6 such boards in the machine and one faulty one among them affects the function of all of them, but once you take it off, it’s fine, that makes me assume it’s a fault on the CAN control part of the board, but I have no idea how to proceed. I would love if I could get any form of info that could help.
Que buen video , en los años 96 al 2002 repare muchos air hockey arcades , buenos recuerdos , saludos desde MEXICO
Where can I find the first chapter of this? I absolutely LOVE your videos and I gain a lot of knowledge thanks to you sir. Salute!
Actually I linked it on the end cards of this video, but here you go
ruclips.net/video/wkAp5x3Z_gc/видео.html
@@LearnElectronicsRepair thank you so much!!
22:11 - You may be right about that. Some of your videos show you probing pins on a small chip by bending the probe as far as you might pull back on a bow to shoot a deer from 300 yards. Thanks for sharing all your _other_ techniques, though.
I have these same bendy brass needle probes - came in a kit of meter leads and alligator clips from Ali - bloody hopeless - if anyone. Has a link to some decent ones please let me know!!
I've learnt so much in the last few weeks of watching your vids.. Great work.. And I look forward to going back to watch your other vids too, while waiting for your next ;) As for this - be nice to see a catch up vid to see if it was the Cap causing the probs etc..
what an interesting journey across that board. It would be lovely to have a lesson on that isolated mains transformer, as I am just terrified every time I have to work on 220ac.
I use a "serie" short circuit arragement (just an incandescent bulb in series with the device, whatever name that has in English) to at least have short circuit protection, but still fear a lot working close to the hot section.
I guess also using an isolated ac supply will prevent earth loops when using an oscilloscope. Am I right?
Yes, if you have an isolation transformer then there is no earth or live or neutral, just 220VAC. So you can touch either of the 220V wires and you will not get a shock - as long as you only touch one at a time. This also means you can touch hot ground or connect your (earthed) oscilloscope to hot ground and nothing untoward will happen. Beware though, if you connect your earthed scope to one of the 220V wires, or hot ground, the other 220V wire becomes live - so don't touch it while the scope is connected or you will feel it!
I think its fixed, nice bright LED's and a resounding click of a relay certainly now is a good time to plug it into the game and confidently blame the cap !....cheers.
I'll let you all know. Before it goes back I'm gonna replace the 7805 that was giving about 5.6V output (and looks like it runs a bit hot) as well just for good measure. Apparently the guy who owns this one has three or four other faulty ones.
Enjoy watching your videos. The 7 amp fuse seems somewhat excessive in the 24 volt circuit if that is used only for the motors, since the motor drivers are rated at 1200mA Maximum current each. Taking into consideration the 'modification' to the motor drive circuit I'd be very suspect of that fuse rating.
I would not be surprised at all.
Concur, if both motors are connected to one driver (perhaps after the other driver failed) then this is asking for trouble. May have damaged the remaining controller and 24V supply. My knowledge of that driver is limited but I believe you need both chips to drive a 2-phase stepper.
Again… he bent the probe 😂
Perfect video, thank you for the good and very helpful explanation. I love your videos!
Yeah! Do it once it's funny, do it twice it's hilarious LOL 😂🤣😂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I’m waiting for the next bending in follow repair videos 😉
5.6v is high end of normal,even at no load??
Meter accurate?
post link on the fix tks
Hi ,great stuff! So why was the regulator looking burned/overheated if the replacement cap wasn’t connected to it ??
I don't know, it is working but the output voltage is slightly high at 5.6V though it may have no load if powering something off the board, but as I noted towards the end of the video I'm gonna replace it anyway before I send the PCB back. That regulator has no heatsink, where the other two do - so I one would assume from that, either it isn't supplying as much current as the others or has a lower voltage drop across it.
BTW after I changed that 5V regulator I still have 5.6V on the output. It's gone back to be tested on the air hockey table now. Apparently he has several more of these to repair
Thank you from the dark continent. really impressive. Please continue teaching..
I'd be interested to know Richard, if it was that Puffy capacitor, I had a TV in that kept on turning off after a 3 or so minutes, if you left it off for a short while it would work again for 3 mins then off, it had 4 filter / reservoir capacitors, one had gone puffy, so I changed it and all was well, then I changed the other 3, because I think they would have been electrically stressed , unlike me mentally stressed by Friday🤣, great video.
Great content, thank you very much mate!
24:45 I will hold the tip of the cleaning tool at the tip of the desoldering iron for a while and when the tip of the tool is hot insert it into the tube so it can melt the clog. Thanks for all your videos. 👍
Yeah that could work - I'll try it next time it clogs up, thanks
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Another way to desolder parts that are on a ground plane that sucks up the heat is to 'preheat' that area of the board a bit with the hot air and then use the desolder gun.
@@patzik1910 Yes definitely - I do this a lot, see my videos recapping motherboards where I go one further and use both hands with the desoldering gun and hot air at the same time 🙂
Your job is cool brother but I would request you to make a video of the diy bluetooth speaker. In my country most people buy them alot hence they get spoiled in many ways and we don't have the schematic diagrams for those bluetooth motherboards. Give us a video explaining power movement and functions of somes IC's and other components since this small IC 's are still new to us and look more complex.
did you notice that the 5 volt regulator legs on the back of the board are black bad solder joints or fried
Rich
Yes - I mentioned that in the video and also replaced it
Made in Spain? How old is this? I wasn't aware we were making so much stuff that we could even do exports anymore!
Cool...
don't want to be pain in the ass but really looking forward to oscilloscope tutorial
Sa bro
Dodgy repairs can be sometime good but not this one... If there was supposed to be one chip, manufacturer would make it on one. Some person "fixed" this by placing double load on single chip? DISGRACE.
Since one chip is not in use, I would consider it bad, take it out, use diode mode, red probe on GND leg of chip, and black on each pin. Then make chart/table. Then remove from PCB second one, and measure, if they are the same, then they are both either dead or both good.
Btw traces on this board look very old and damaged... also contacts of small chips look very dirty and almost shorted...
This CN6 could be output for something, I didnt saw that u checked if 24V was present there.
Dim brightness on screen means lower voltage... since system works OK with another board, problem is not on other parts.
I wonder where you get that theory from... Many arcade boards have empty sockets. Sometimes to allow the use of different size eproms, sometimes to runs other software, sometime for whatever reason. Anyhow, you definitely won't put any 'extra' load on an eprom if you would replace 2 with a single one. It's just a larger eprom with one or more extra address lines. And if you want to 'test' the eprom, don't be messing about with a multimeter, just put it in an eprom reader en read the content....
@@patzik1910 From schematics? Check around minute 35:00 , its servo motor IC, not speaking about address lines.
@@orion310591RS Well as it so happens - the board is not working in-situ so I will be going out to look at it next week on site. Regards the dodgy previous repair - I kinda assume it has been working like that for some time as I don't think that repair was new. I did work out what they have done and I also mentioned if I had replacement in stock I would have fitted it. Anyway it looks like we are gonna find out more about this faulty PCB soon so watch this space, as they say
Did your man not notice under the microscope how many rotten tracks you have on that board, they are simply gone this is an unsalvageable board
kristian nikolaev Why is it unsalvageable? It didn't work after the attempts on this video so I spent a few hours mapping it out once I had a working one to compare with. Here: ruclips.net/video/d8mqF_hKwj0/видео.html
I completed that work (plus a few more bad tracks I didn't find on the video but located afterwards) and took it back today to test, but the owner wasn't there so I have to wait the results
And if that does not work, how about removing all the components, take photos of the PCB to make new ones, then fit all the components back to those. He has five of these all not working, plus one good one. I found today they cost ~€500 each to replace, so you could do a quite a lot of repair work for half that price yeah?
Well I don’t see any comment about whether or not you actually fixed it?