Hi Rob - thanks so much for your video. I have an '02 manual 3.3 XT. I'm doing my oil pan for the 2nd time, unfortunately. Have watched your video and the others you recommended. None of the videos I've seen mention installing the rear engine rubber plates part numbers 14746-12G10 and 12G11. (Also referred to in the Nissan diagram as 11251B and 11251BA) Wondering if you have any comment on these and/or installed them off camera. I didn't install them when I did the pan the first time and wondering if I should install them with my second try. Many Thanks
@@XterraRob I installed without them yesterday and so far, seems ok. Maybe it's just for manual trans only. Will email you the diagram for your reference. Thx!!
Xenon ZCar knows everything about z31 300zx vg30 det engines as well as vg33de turbo's and cams and commonly installed in z31's as an engine upgrade just a FYI look him up also tri county auto garage too.
I have the same Fel-Pro gasket kit as you, the instructions say to use a fast-drying adhesive to attach the front and rear gaskets to the bottom of the cylinder block. Is that what you did? I can't figure out what adhesive to use that will adhere rubber to the aluminum block. If you don't adhere the gaskets to the block then they just fall off or are loose and can be easily dislodged when you put the oil pan back on. I'm confused. But great video, thanks!
I used the same RTV ... Oil resistant "the right stuff". Factory service manual just said to use the RTV on the edges...nothing special. I did a dab of both sides of each corner of the half moon gasket. The RTV and notch holds it in place to the block pretty well and you can visibly see if it hets dislodged.
Nice. Previous owner changed the oil pan gasket on my 98 Pathfinder 3.3L V6 and now the dipstick will only pull out about 2" and it won't come out anymore. It will go back down luckily. Any tricks to get it unstuck?
The oil pan has a little tube on the inside wall that the dip stick drop into. It does that to contain it so it doesnt flop around in the sump. You are supposed to remove dip stick before installing oil pan so the dip stick doesnt get bound up on the outside of the tube. It sounds like the previous owner installed the oil pan while the dip stick was installed so the dip stick got wedged on the outside of the tube instead of going into it. Unfortunately, other than twisting and pulling, it would probably require dropping the oil pan so undo the binding on the dip stick. I'd probably leave it as is and just measure the oil added each oil change.
Sometimes the dip stick does get lightly cought up though...so if a combination of pulling and twisting at different angles doesn't free it...then it may be what I deacribed above.
@@XterraRob thanks, I would do that, but it's aging and I check all my trucks at each fill up. As they all leak some and/or burn a little. I assume this one does too, until I know otherwise. So I'll try to wiggle it a little and twist and stuff and see if I can get it dislodged. If that doesn't work, maybe I can loosen the pan, not having to remove it completely, and get it out if that makes enough space. Is the original dipstick a straight piece of metal or does it have one of those enlarged pieces at the end? Thanks!
It is a thin wire with about 1 inch of an enlarged area on the end. If it's actually mis routed, that 1 inch part is what is not flexible and can't get free.
@@XterraRob thanks. I twisted it several ways and pulled at different points. It will not come out. I can tell that piece must be too big to make it thru something. How damn annoying! Lol Do you think the pan MUST be fully removed to get it out? That will be BS! 😆
My 04 has a pretty bad leak in the rear of the oil pan if the truck sits for a couple days. How long did this take you? Looks like this is a pretty time consuming job.Did you get any quotes to have a shop do it?
This is something a dealer should probably do, and I had a dealer quote me $3k. Firestone Tire shop quoted me $400 to reseal the engine oil pan...but I'm pretty sure they didnt know the details of what all it took for a 4WD Xterra since it isn't plainly accessible like on some cars. An independent mechanic could probably do it, too...but I just did it myself after a dealer said $3k.
@@XterraRob Yikes!I paid $3k for the truck 4 years ago haha.Ill call around and see if I can get a reasonable price from a private shop.If not I guess I'll tackle it myself as much as I dread doing it.Ive never seen an oil pan so difficult to get out .Got to love Nissan engineering.
I ignored mine for 7 years before it finally fried my starter. Honestly, itd be cheaper to carry a spare starter motor in the back and the tools needed to swap it out in the event you get stranded somewhere. Everyone shops on Amazon... Put that extra cardboard to use and leave it under the truck in your garage or driveway. That was my procrastination that didnt hurt much.
@@XterraRob I do have a spare starter and alternator I carry when I go off road.Wouldnt be a bad idea to throw itnin the truckI for now.ve been procrastinating the last year or so about it since its such a pain to fix. Thanks for the replies!
I been waiting for this, I had a leak on my Xterra for months but now I feel confident in replacing thank you, its been a while
Happy to help my dude :) you can do it!
i finished the upper plenum coolant leak because of u!
Glad to help! Good work!
This is awesome, I have been needing to reseal my pan! Thanks man!
Happy to help!!!!
Hi Rob - thanks so much for your video. I have an '02 manual 3.3 XT. I'm doing my oil pan for the 2nd time, unfortunately. Have watched your video and the others you recommended. None of the videos I've seen mention installing the rear engine rubber plates part numbers 14746-12G10 and 12G11. (Also referred to in the Nissan diagram as 11251B and 11251BA) Wondering if you have any comment on these and/or installed them off camera. I didn't install them when I did the pan the first time and wondering if I should install them with my second try. Many Thanks
I wasn't even aware of where that part is...I installed oil pan, and the two rubber seals. Is this a manual only part maybe?
@@XterraRob I installed without them yesterday and so far, seems ok. Maybe it's just for manual trans only. Will email you the diagram for your reference. Thx!!
Xenon ZCar knows everything about z31 300zx vg30 det engines as well as vg33de turbo's and cams and commonly installed in z31's as an engine upgrade just a FYI look him up also tri county auto garage too.
I have the same Fel-Pro gasket kit as you, the instructions say to use a fast-drying adhesive to attach the front and rear gaskets to the bottom of the cylinder block. Is that what you did? I can't figure out what adhesive to use that will adhere rubber to the aluminum block. If you don't adhere the gaskets to the block then they just fall off or are loose and can be easily dislodged when you put the oil pan back on. I'm confused. But great video, thanks!
I used the same RTV ... Oil resistant "the right stuff". Factory service manual just said to use the RTV on the edges...nothing special. I did a dab of both sides of each corner of the half moon gasket. The RTV and notch holds it in place to the block pretty well and you can visibly see if it hets dislodged.
Nice. Previous owner changed the oil pan gasket on my 98 Pathfinder 3.3L V6 and now the dipstick will only pull out about 2" and it won't come out anymore. It will go back down luckily. Any tricks to get it unstuck?
The oil pan has a little tube on the inside wall that the dip stick drop into. It does that to contain it so it doesnt flop around in the sump. You are supposed to remove dip stick before installing oil pan so the dip stick doesnt get bound up on the outside of the tube. It sounds like the previous owner installed the oil pan while the dip stick was installed so the dip stick got wedged on the outside of the tube instead of going into it. Unfortunately, other than twisting and pulling, it would probably require dropping the oil pan so undo the binding on the dip stick. I'd probably leave it as is and just measure the oil added each oil change.
Sometimes the dip stick does get lightly cought up though...so if a combination of pulling and twisting at different angles doesn't free it...then it may be what I deacribed above.
@@XterraRob thanks, I would do that, but it's aging and I check all my trucks at each fill up. As they all leak some and/or burn a little. I assume this one does too, until I know otherwise.
So I'll try to wiggle it a little and twist and stuff and see if I can get it dislodged.
If that doesn't work, maybe I can loosen the pan, not having to remove it completely, and get it out if that makes enough space.
Is the original dipstick a straight piece of metal or does it have one of those enlarged pieces at the end?
Thanks!
It is a thin wire with about 1 inch of an enlarged area on the end. If it's actually mis routed, that 1 inch part is what is not flexible and can't get free.
@@XterraRob thanks. I twisted it several ways and pulled at different points. It will not come out. I can tell that piece must be too big to make it thru something. How damn annoying! Lol
Do you think the pan MUST be fully removed to get it out? That will be BS! 😆
nice work .
Thanks man...took a while...but no more leaks and hopefully no more fried starter motors!
My 04 has a pretty bad leak in the rear of the oil pan if the truck sits for a couple days.
How long did this take you?
Looks like this is a pretty time consuming job.Did you get any quotes to have a shop do it?
This is something a dealer should probably do, and I had a dealer quote me $3k. Firestone Tire shop quoted me $400 to reseal the engine oil pan...but I'm pretty sure they didnt know the details of what all it took for a 4WD Xterra since it isn't plainly accessible like on some cars. An independent mechanic could probably do it, too...but I just did it myself after a dealer said $3k.
I did it over the course of 3 or 4 days. It takes me longer since I filmed too. If I had to guess I'd say 12 hours or so if you are prepared.
@@XterraRob Yikes!I paid $3k for the truck 4 years ago haha.Ill call around and see if I can get a reasonable price from a private shop.If not I guess I'll tackle it myself as much as I dread doing it.Ive never seen an oil pan so difficult to get out .Got to love Nissan engineering.
I ignored mine for 7 years before it finally fried my starter. Honestly, itd be cheaper to carry a spare starter motor in the back and the tools needed to swap it out in the event you get stranded somewhere. Everyone shops on Amazon...
Put that extra cardboard to use and leave it under the truck in your garage or driveway. That was my procrastination that didnt hurt much.
@@XterraRob I do have a spare starter and alternator I carry when I go off road.Wouldnt be a bad idea to throw itnin the truckI for now.ve been procrastinating the last year or so about it since its such a pain to fix.
Thanks for the replies!
How many miles on your Xterra do you have now?
112k
I’ll have to attack this on my Frontier after the body work I’m getting done like my radiator support.
Good luck! You can do it!
Don't forget to remove dipstick from engine ( like I did and had to remove oil pan twice :-(
Uh oh! Good reminder!!!