I have an idea for an improvement. Instead of the rebar, get three long bolts, stick about 4-6 nuts on each of them. You can use the bolts through the bottom of the bucket to hold the nuts in place, which will get cast into the top of the stove. After casting, you can remove the bolts to take the stove out of the form and put them back into the nuts. You now have a rocket stove with an height-adjustable and levelable cooking surface.
@@AJPemberton I think you are missing the point. No matter how many nuts you use you can’t change the length of the bolts. Winding the nuts up and down the bolts won’t adjust the height. What would work would be to fix several nuts into the concrete, for each bolt. Then you could wind the bolts up and down into the base of the rocket stove. Then again I think we are talking about the same thing but I misunderstood what you meant which is a great idea! Lol.
I think the idea is the nuts are cast into the concrete and there's a void where bolt is screwed down. You back the bolts out, remove the form and screw the bolts back into the nuts in the concrete. Grease the threads up, though, so the cement doesn't bond to your bolts in that void below the nut
I've watched almost hundreds of rocket stove videos. Thank you for being a good and thoughtful teacher. I am especially impressed that you actually listen to your viewers and incorporate their suggestions into your projects which only helps EVERYONE you are trying to reach. I am absolutely going to follow you, and I appreciate what you are doing and how you are doing it. Kudos.
This is what the Internet is really for. Learning together. Thank you, Sir, for taking in the crowd-info and using it to improve and giving it back to us.
These video's are a must see for the homeless. I can and will modify this stove to also be used as a Boiler Unit for a Heat Transfer into Tents. Hold my Bong and Watch THIS !
Never heard of a rocket stove until today. Saw a couple of videos today and can’t say how much I love the idea.i also love the comments that folks wrote down. You did a great job of explaining what and why you did everything. Thank you very much .
Instead of rebars you can use muffin pan as mold and make three little legs for holding pan. It's safe for usage purposes instead of iron rods popping out. Excellent job done. God bless you.
For your next cement/concrete project, when you're done and take the forms or cardboard off, spray your project with water or pour on for a few days. That will help make it stronger by prolonging the drying up process among other reasons. Nice job nonetheless, I'm going to build one for myself!
I gotta say - you're a humble guy. So MUCH correction. I have learned a ton - i love your can-do attitude. I can't help but wonder if those who have offered so MUCH advice, have actually done this project? I will. Im so doing this.
Mr Greenshorts. I'm late to this party I know, but just wanted to say that I'm hugely impressed at the way you welcome tips and suggestions and "brainstorming" without any offense taken, thus making them HUGE fun as well as informative. Thank you.
great work. just a suggestion to add more strength to the concrete after drying. water the whole stove twice a day for the next 3 or 5 days. if it rains, let it rain. trust me, that will prolong life and prevent cracks. this is a proven practice in the area Saudi Arabia where i live. thanks again for sharing. i may do this for my desert camping😃
True. But, you could simply immerse the whole thing in a large water filled drum for about 2 weeks. water will cure even more effectively under water. Here in the U.S.A. where I live concrete bridge construction is always cured under huge tarp-covers that are kept wet. Just as you have pointed out the wet-cure is far more effective in terms of increasing strength and preventing strees cracks from forming.
Great build! IDEA: To add secondary air and raise cooking height make another section the same way to sit over the first. It will increase draft and you can direct the air intake to vortex in the flue. Use the rebar to align and link the two sections. You may have to improve the base for stability but cooking height should be very comfortable while increasing burn temperature and efficiency.
Yes! Vortex solution and simply add rebar “feet” for stability, all the way across for less side stress. Ash slide out pan works perfectly with that addition!
To improve this stove I recommend a 5" diameter vertical pipe instead of 4" which believe it or not gives 56% more cross sectional area in the pipe and 56% more power. 5" pipe would be 5.5" outer diameter and will give you 2.25" thick wall on the top of the rocket stove because the bucket is 10 inches diameter at the bottom. Then instead of milk Jug use 2x6 lumber which is 5.5 inches wide which is perfect for a 5" pipe, or if you don't have 5 inch pipe wrap a 4 inch pipe in few layers of cardboard to achieve 5 5 inches. The base of a bucket where the fire will be needs to be fatter. Bucket is 12 inch wide there so the chamber should be ideally 6 or 7 inches in diameter. To maximize the flow of air and to allow room for fire wood. I would ideally recommend to stack 3 pieces of 2x6. You can even screw this to your pipe. 4 inch pipe is very limited. I find that 5 inch is the minimum if you want to boil mid size pots of food. Mid size as in 1 to 2 gallon size pots. Ideally I like rocket stove from 6 inch pipe which I did made in a rectangular small recycling bin. My 8 inch pipe made from full size recycling bin works the best and is actually 9 inch diameter because the 8 inch pipe has half in holes. For this project if you want to cook pots of food and really use this stove I recommend you find a large diameter extra large bucket of small garbage bin and you use a 6 inch pipe or you can use empty paint cans which are 6.5 inches in diameter and free often. Perfect for 8 liter pots.
Some suggestions for outside texture and beauty. Peel the inner layer of the cardboard to create a corrugated texture. Or, cut out different shapes such as leaf designs, mountains or geometric squares, rectangles, and triangles and apply then to the inside layer of cardboard using glue or tape. Gluing leaves onto the cardboard prior to inserting the cardboard works as well. When peeled, just like the texture created from the lines when rolling up the cardboard, these impressions will be a part of the exterior. Once when I was finishing a slab on a windy day, as leaves blew over the concrete surface I got tired of picking them out leaving some behind. When I was finished, I wished I had left more of them in because of the accidental beauty added. After staining the concrete, the leaf impressions really added beauty. On another note, left alone, concrete will cure 95% in 28 days. I could imagine with adding heat when firing up the stove could help speed up this cure time as well. Allowing the concrete to cure longer than five days as suggested in the video will result in less cracking for years ahead.
Wow! You really rock. The improvements you made are great. What a wonderful design for a durable and efficient stove. The milk jug and PVC taped up with cardboard seems like a brilliant solution for the average builder. The next step according to Dr. Winiarski, is creating a skirt to surround the pot, and improve heat transfer.
To much water kills cement strength. try wet cure for 7-28 days. chicken wire is a good idea and multiple layers would be good. try 1:2:3 cement/sand/perlite. you could also try vermiculite (expanded rock). rebar bent in circles would also help prevent the vertical crack. Over all, nice. Your a good teacher
I actually like the idea of cardboard mold release. It will hold moisture up against the stove, to keep it from drying too fast. It may be a good part of why it's held up so well and avoided cracking.
David Cummings No, would actually work very well. You just bolt the anchors to the form (bucket), using a flat washer on the inside and a short bolt. This is a great idea!
I used 2" lag bolts and nuts all the way down the screw. Placed one nut on then slid it through the hole in the bottom of the bucket. Next I threaded nuts on until the end of the screw. Poured the concrete over the assembly and this created an adjustable height pot stand. Not "green" like using old rebar, but very effective.
Useful, clear, fun to watch! Learning from suggestions? Wonderful! I also love the natural way you involve your son in building, creating something useful, a compost bin!! Lovely parenting! Thank you for sharing!
Great video! FYI the standard cure period for maximum strength concrete is 28 days. Although it continues to harden forever it achieves the majority its strength in 28 days. Also, keeping the concrete moist during the curing period is a good thing. Curing is a chemical process that involves the growth of crystalline structures that is aided by moisture.
Concrete gains 90% of its cure in first 28 days, the remaining 10% in next few years/decades (depending on mixture, climate, thickness, etc.). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete The only mixture that continues to cure indefinitely is perfectly manufactured Limecrete (and that stuff hasn’t been made the right way since the fall of the Western Roman Empire). Notice there are ruins left from Rome, but the building blocks are often still whole and just disassembled/toppled creating the “ruin.” The Romans Hydrated the Lyme for up to five years with daily stirring, then mixing with volcanic ash to make their structures.
Don't you realise stoves made with cement concrete will burst like bombs when the fire temperature reaches a certain point? I've faced this. Is there any tips?
Love the projects brother. Being a concrete forman for many years...may i suggest any form of cooking oil on the interior of your bucket. Normally when we pour walls or columns, we just spray everything down with cooking oil for easy release/removal of the finished product. I would love to see how the oil would work in that type situation. Keep up the great work. 4 thumbs up!
Thank you my brother from another mutha. I love getting info from the pros. Thanks for the oil idea. I am definitely going to get rid of the card board form work in the next rocket stove build. Thanks for the feedback and the encouraging words.
M Via Mr know all, if you knew everything then what are you doing on YT? Stop putting other tradesmen down. If he described it as “cooking oil” at least it will be easier for laymen to understand rather using technical jargons.
Old wood cook stoves I've seen use an ash pan. That way you just pull the pan an use them in your garden or they are great for putting on icy places you walk or drive. Thanks for sharing.
You can use cooking oil, and brush it on with a small paint brush or paper towels as a mold release. Use boiling hot water on the mold ( pour it on to expand the plastic), and it should slip right off.
I have some ideas to improve this design. How about having it up higher so you don't have to squat so much to fuel it and to cook on it. Also I think it should be longer to increase the length by joining 2 buckets and if it is longer it roars - like a rocket. Love your work. Also bend the metal bars 90 degrees so the pot sits easier on it. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter. Good feedback. I have made a sand table for all of my stoves. I call it Rocket Stove Row. :-) This particular stove recently got a heat-sink grill (video), a custom firebox (video), a custom stand (video), and a custom ash tray/fuel bridge (video). It has evolved into quite a series. Now I just need to upgrade the stove. :-) Thanks for the feedback. Thanks for watching.
Perlite and portland makes for a strong, light, and insulating concrete that i used to line the chimney in my house. I tested it with a oxy acetylene torch and hammer ....that was 5 yrs. ago and no cracks or debris in chimney since!
Your procedure of making it is very easy that everyone can do and its very nice and helpful. But i see a little adjustment if i make my own. I will bend the extending steel 2"-3" to have a good hold of the pans or cooking bowls.
>Why drill 3 new holes in bottom of bucket, when you could've just re-drilled/enlarged the existing holes? >By having re-bar exposed, will it not rust over time, expand inside concrete and cause cracks/splits? If a person had some stainless steel bolts could those be used, or would there be any sort of reaction between the stainless steel and the concrete? >Regarding the comments/suggestions that you could've used wax or some form of releasing agent instead of the cardboard: I would say that using the cardboard is a GOOD idea -- as you are using something that costs $0 and was going to be disposed of...so why spend money on something else? But as with all things -- everyone has their own opinion. >Is there any danger from the heat causing the concrete to break? Thank you for showing how you made this version.
At first I had no idea what was a rocket stove ..I thought of something blowing up! Ha ha ha I was intrigued. You explained everything in detail. Loved that you also displayed viewer comments and applied the best practices to your work. I enjoyed the video not only on your efficiency on explaining everything but you did the trial and error work already for us. Great job. Thank you. Loved it.
Nice! I like the improvements. Can’t wait to see the weight/heat improvements. Also, really appreciate your generous appreciation of some not-so-polite suggestions.
Nice design, thanks for sharing. Consider adding a double layer of bricks at your base to make ash remover easier and give more space for hot embers to increase your heat duration without refueling. Another thought...the tripod top/ rebar restricts the minimum diameter of your pot. Maybe using a small raised grate partially embedded in the concrete?
I built one of these today. I'll see how it comes out. I actually made a copper pipe coil round the pvc pipe with an inlet and outlet for heating water :)
I like your style !! Appreciate the feedbacks from your viewers and how you incorporate them. Fantastic distraction from watching political videos!! Keep up the great work.
Great video quality and well executed build. I suggest using longer rebar that is bent toward the center of the top to increase the support area and allow the use of smaller cooking vessels Also, provide some means to fasten a sheet metal curtain above the rim of the stove. Users of small backpacking style stoves can attest to the vastly improved efficiency afforded by those
Thanks Keith. Sometimes I start out more complicated and then try to remove complexity. About half the time a make a video after the initial build. The other half, I got out there with the over built prototype. :-) Thanks for watching.
I am inspired. Please wear a mask when pouring and mixing dry concrete just a bit of that dust inhaled is wicked. I use vegetable oil for my mold releaser. I make papercrete planters. Thank you for these videos, you are a good host. So receptive to comments and applying the ideas. Carry on
A half-mask respirator ($20-ish) actually seals to your face and saves you from exposure to silica dust, which causes scar tissue in the lungs. Look up "silicosis". Scar tissue doesn't work well for breathing.
I've been watching a professional concrete installer on you tube, he coats his forms with motor oil. Probably less expensive than a mold release product.
tip for concrete, dont rush to remove it from bucket and cardboard, in fact , put plastic on top and leave it for weeks, this keeps it wetter longer and cures stronger in the end, does require the patience though, and of course the slow drying out afterwards too
Absolutely ✔ and may I add : get a haircut or grow your whiskers during the long curing interval ! This will discourage most of the triflers and wannabes!! 😆
The goal is not for the concrete to "dry" the concrete needs to cure. It can cure underwater, so it doesn't need to dry. Where does the water go if it doesn't evaporate? It doesn't go anywhere. It chemically bonds and stays there in the mass. The water is all still there. If the surface dries before the concrete cures then the surface does not cure properly. It would be better if you removed the trash can lid and let the rain keep it wet or even spray it with the hose for a few days. (That's my 2 cents. Let the flaming begin.)
I did the exact same thing to make a base for a patio light pole. I used a new bucket from Home Depot. The concrete came out without a hitch. I would expect wax, engine oil or even diesel fuel (thin coating of either) would work well as a release agent. When i had my patio poured, the contractor used diesel fuel as a release agent to coat his texturing molds.
You could add a few holes, angled clockwise or counterclockwise, to feed the flame about midway to the top, with air, that would help with burning more of the fuel in the flames. You could even have the holes lead to a slightly larger chamber, where the fire can be mixed with air. The angled air sources will help rotate the airflow inside, to have the added air be uniformly mixed in the fire, to burn off more of the fuel that would end up as smoke.
Thanks for the suggestion and the proper location of the holes. I may add some using my hammer drill. I want to test this a bit as is, before making this modification. Thanks for watching.
Great video, Thank you for your hard work. The extra air is important. however, it needs to be preheated. Best to add it from below and behind the burning tips of the wood sticks; as in "Winiarski Rocket Stove". I think the cold air will not work for the super hot combustion you speak of.
I'm not sure about that, since it can be heated quickly, once it mixes in with the flames. Sure, it might be better to preheat it, but it's not necessary. Even more so if not much heat is lost to a termal mass (like cob/mud/dirt).
Your video popped up after watching a similar video, never heard of such a stove, thank you for sharing and I appreciated how you used other viewers ideas to improve your design and showing us while doing so. Thank you...
Thanks for the suggestion, Jeff. I need to order some refractory cement. I’ve also been practicing making aircrete. Still have a little more tweaking to get it right. Thanks for watching.
Perlite or vermiculite is the best insulation around you could use powered clay to the mix as well and instead of just rain water you can make water glass 🧐 or is it glass water anyway it’s a high temp refractory adhesive. Great video bruv keep the videos coming please thank you.
Just like making a cake; once you fill the round or rectangular pans with cake filling before you put it into the oven, be sure & tap your filled pans slightly on top of counter or stove top & put in oven to back. It makes for a better more solid consistency without air bubbles in your cake! Comes out more evenly baked!
Haven't finished watching entire video, but just amazed that after crowing about "re-using" video as well as the rainwater jug, you actually went & TAPED UP three perfectly good holes & DRILLED 3 NEW ONES instead of just enlarging the original 3 holes! Wow..
@@GreenShortzDIY Ah, okay.. nice job otherwise. Was wondering why you didn't add that copper coil & water barrel setup to make hot water while you're cooking, but I assumed you'd probably got a solar thingy or whathaveyou already in place ("solar thingy" is city-slicker name for it!). This was 1st vid of yours I caught, so figured I should review a few b4 any more critiques! I'm now daydreaming about building a big one of those (free-forming it over hardware cloth armature, then covering w tile sample mosaic) in my backyard, but have to check if they're legal in NYC.. Anyway, thanks for the posts & response.
@@cableknitter7346 Thanks for the reply. My copper coil videos are more recent than the concrete rocket stove build you saw. That is usually the video of mine people see first. It's the hot one right now. :-) In NYC you could always mod an old grill an put a rocket stove inside. Of course, that defeats the decorative tile mosaic. You could always make the mosaic one and disguise it with a potted plant on top when you're not using it. BTW, critique is welcome here. Lot's of great ideas and suggestions come via the comments. You'd be surprised how many commenters razz me about the extra holes. lol! My most popular comment, fact. Thanks for watching.
Love your stove I did one years ago and it came out just fine. My next on4e will be the same as your design thank youi for your video`s i love watching them from Australia. god bless
Small bag of fibers for concrete will add tons of strength and reduce weight as well. Thank you for showing good detail. The hammer taping works really well too.
Your videos are awesome! Have you considered doing a video on a pool/hot tub/off grid hot water rocket stove heater type of design? I'm looking to add copper pipe inside of your design to create a thermal siphon to pull cold water from the pool without electricity. Was hoping you might have something in the works.
Thanks Patrick. I have thought about a similar idea...to heat water for an outdoor shower application, with water under house pressure or gravity-fed rain water. I'd be interested to see how your thermal siphon worked. You might consider a double height (two bucket tall) set up, with proper stabilization. Don't want that falling over. Or perhaps a rocket mass heater with an internal coil in the riser. I think as long as you had water in the copper it wouldn't melt (1984 degree F melting point). I like the exposed copper in the chimney versus embedding in the concrete. Easier to observe, maintain and switch out. I say go for it. Experiment. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
Awesome content friend!! I love what you did and i need to replicate for myself! One suggestion, id continue with the threaded studs so you can use a coupling to adjust the level difference when not on perfect ground. Either way this is an amazing rocket stove! Thank you
I made like that kind of stove in 1996 because we want to save some gas bills and besides there's a lot of firewood then. Right now it is still there and it was brought up in the 4th floor of our house--rooftop. You know the suggestion of using chicken wire is the best, I wrapped it around the and use some finer sand and more cement that's what i did since in the long run the whole stove will crack because of too much heat just to keep it intact...i don't know if perlite that you use will help. i don't use any iron stakes to hold my pot, i used the old stove pot support for more stability that can hold any sizes of pots, pans and all. sometimes when there is no chair available in the rooftop i sit on it...how useful my stove was. i was into this kind of DIY that makes life easier and economical. Kudos to y ou!
Very educational. With that stove will even allow one to utilize small wood twigs and branches and even pieces of papers, cardboards, and charcoals to generate heat energy. And most importantly, the heat energy generated is utilized most efficiently because the heat is CONCENTRATED directly under the bottom of the pan. It is a substantial improvement over the traditional stoves i've ever seen in many Villages across many Countries in South East Asia and Africa. Tnx for sharing.
Wow! this is the best rocket stove design that I ever have seen, great job, love the design plan you made, if ok, I like to make one for myself, because you made it so simple. Thank you for sharing. I really enjoy watching your video.
I actually love the idea of heavy concrete for a heat sink. Once it does get heated up it will continue to radiate heat quite a while after the fire has gone out. That could be handy in a cold winter where I live.
Don't you realise stoves made with cement concrete will burst like bombs when the fire temperature reaches a certain point? I've faced this. Is there any tips?
Interesting design. I'd recommend making the feed hole taller and laying 3 or 4 short rebar lengths across, about 2" off the ground, to allow airflow under the fuel. That would up the performance noticeably. You could also include a mount for a j tube to the outside of the shape. Just a thought.
I absolutely love this. As for any improvements, maybe a handle like on the buckets for easier transport. We should be neighbors, you do some cool things. I'm making 3 of these for our back yard cookouts. Thanks for sharing this project video. Rick Rivera in Stockton CA
I’ve never heard of a rocket stove, but you’re such a good teacher I watched it all. I’ll watch the cob stove video too. Question: could you put the stove and grate up on a concrete stand, so no need to crouch to feed it, and cook? My knees would be happier... 😊
Thank you for watching. Yes the stove can be elevated. That’s not a bad idea. My knees aren’t young anymore either. :-) it would need to be a pretty beefy stand, to handle the weight. Perhaps similar to the table built for the cob oven, with an insulated layer of sand. Thanks for the feedback.
DreamingCatStudio You are in for a fantastic journey... three years ago I built a free standing rocket with a 55 gallon barrel for heat... incredibly efficient. Also look into rocket-mass-heater... big fun.
Love the sound of that train. Good design. Use the ash left for snow melting and path clearing in the snow, also add to garden for potash which supplies nitrogen for plants.
I have a lot of nutshells and I have discovered that they burn realy bright and hot when i did just put them on the glowing coals in my woodstoof. I would like to have a rocket stoof design that works like pelletstoof but instead of using pellets using nutshells which I can feed to the rocketstoof. I want this because I am a hobby moonshiner and want to distill my mesh with it. With a feeding pipe I can just leave it for a while and not have stay with it to put branches in it all the time.
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Great video , and thanks for your time in making this video , and to show all those troll's out there that everything people make is not always perfect , but thank you sir . And keep doing what you do don't worry about troll's comments.
Thank you for the good words, Solo. I appreciate it. Ever notice how most of the trolls here on RUclips don;t make videos, they just criticize those who are. :-) Thanks for watching.
I'm Filipino watch your own design rocket stove and it's amazing for people in third world. It's simple and materials are readily available. Next video if you can incorporate the lower grill for the ashes in the concrete so that when it transfer the location of the stove no need to for a bricks on the ground.
Actually, I think using chicken wire on small concrete works well. Used some recycled chicken wire in a quickie, approximate 3” thick garden path walkway, and used one of those cobblestone forms. The chicken wire was closer to the bottom1/3 of the thickness, so none poked up to the top. Some 10 or so years later, needed to move some of it. Lifting up sections, found they were still well-connected by the chicken wire, making the sections real hard to move...tools & grunt-work involved. The moved sections stayed intact & usable elsewhere...no cracking. So, considering the application... Of course, chicken wire is too mingy to hold bigger &/or load-bearing of heavier loads. But chicken wire is fine to give more strength to small projects, including your stove! So’s whatever recycled old fence wire that might be handy. Just consider the project & it’s use, to figure how much reinforcing it really needs.
Adam Sandler goes off-grid. Great video. I want to have a go of this but imbed a copper water coil within the concrete to use as a pool water heater. Reckon that’ll work?
Great video! I noticed that the tool you refer to as a "spade bit" is called a 'paddle bit" in my part of the country. I'm always intrigued by little differences in dialect like that
Hi! This is a version of the Plains Indian (Lakota) dual cooking hole fire I've used successfully since childhood. One thing that''s different-the Lakota version uses two holes (a forearm plus a hand to fingertip depth) spaced by the same amount through a connecting tunnel. Fuel is dropped down into the hole as needed. A windscreen (away from the wind side) of the draw hole improves breathing. Hole is about a palm width in diameter. How well do they work? Using green wood twigs and sticks, dug into British clay around Uffington in England, the fire was hot enough to roar in eight minutes. It baked the clay into brick in six hours. It softened a heavy iron grate into uselessness in an evening. It burned everything into just ash. It boiled water faster than the Coleman cook stove. We had two tea kettles and one three gallon pot of stew going at the same time, besting the performance of the two burner Coleman by a wide margin. When done with the campout, we just waited until the fire was cold, then put the excavated earth back in and topped it with the cut plugs of turf. In a few weeks there's no evidence of a fire. Your feed ramp is a good idea, but I do not think it is optimal for drawing air in. Volume and speed are important to get towards a really hot fire. I'd eliminate the ramp, and then build a chimney in diameter sized draw, putting it out to the side. Just drop the fuel in directly. If you use an insulated or perlite concrete tube that's removable, then you can clean out the ashes by waiting until the whole thing cools, removed the tube and pull out ashes. I'm going to use your construction experience for my outdoor stove next month. Thank you so much for sharing the entirety of your build and design.
Gordon, Thanks for the feedback and the stories from your experience. I think you’re correct about the feed ramp not being necessary, certainly not along with a grate. The grate works well on its own. I’ll have to try the Lacota fire hole. I’ve seen videos before. Pretty cool. Thanks for the tips on that. Thanks for watching.
What is better than a man who can create? Ans: A man who creates, takes feedback & also gives credit wherever due. New sub here. I might not make a rocket stove but I can learn so much from your attitude, makes me want to be a better-er person. Much love!
The higher heat and better combustion comes from air flow velocity so you just need to increase the hight of the chimney. Insulating at this hight will do little to nothing.
Thanks for the info, Brad. I’m going to add a J-Tube to this stove, which I hope will add some velocity. I don’t want to make this version any taller, so I will have to live with the thermal specs. However, I do plan to make a rocket mass heater in the fall, which will incorporate a much taller riser. Thanks for watching.
First, the cement perlite and sand ratio needs to be more like 1:3:2 to gain any significant insulation at all. Real insulating concrete is as much as 1:8 cement to perlite. Second, the "heat sink" of concrete is completely insignificant in this situation. 100% guarantee it wouldn't boil water any faster. Go ahead and test it, next vid, with a controlled fuel like charcoal or something. It does make it lighter though, and probably less likely to crack if it gets too hot. Perlite does make the concrete a lot weaker too, so its a trade off.
Have you considered tack welding (or if you use bolts, drill and bolt it) a large cooking pot upside down on your pot rests. As long as it has enough clearance for air flow it will act as chimney cover/burn plate and help you to capture more heat. If you use a long pot like a stock pot or even a small metal barrel (beware of galvanised metal) and rest it on a ring of metal or concrete just above the fuel feed opening and adding an exhaust port somewhere low on the pot or the ring it rests on you could create that secondary burn chamber. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the idea Kirk! I’ve been thinking of ways to grill a steak and this would probably work great! I’ll flip over my big cast iron pot on some fire brick chunks to test this. Will make a video on this. Watch for your comment in it. Credit where credit is due. Thanks again.
Nice job. Yes you did note that you were going to let the concrete dry for 4 or 5 days which is a good safe idea. In addition to letting people know why it’s so important for concrete to be dry before exposing it to high heat is that water expands 1700 times when converted to steam. Need I say more? One could experience anything from a crack or spalling (pieces of concrete blowing off) if the concrete is to wet.
Thank you for the technique of making the furnace. This method can be used for saving energy oil and electricity. We return to the environment friendly period.
No matter what you do, or how you do it, the watchers will pile on with comments.... Almost all are RUclips “experts”, who have never climbed into the “Arena” themselves. Few “gems”, but there is obviously a lot of discarding of the babble comments necessary. Glade some people are willing to go to the effort to share a chunk of themselves by posting how-to videos! Bravo!
Thank you for all the good feedback, Cliff. I appreciate it. I’ve had less nasty comments of late, perhaps the trolls realize they are wasting their time, not mine. :-) But, you are right, the meanest comments usually come from those who have never posted a thing. Thank you for watching and for the encouragement.
I was thinking the very same thing, and I think someone else on YT made a larger Ricket Stove unit with aircrete but I can't remember who. Maybe Aircrete Harry or the Honey Do Carpenter or a similar channel. I was thinking it could be VERY light weight. Like 35% or 40% of the normal concrete weight.
you have got the molding technique spot on .. I believe the cardboard release agent is the way to go . too many damaged castings when using release agent/ products .
Thank you for the feedback, Richard. I have tried a pour with a release agent. The pipe is still stuck in that concrete. :-) The cardboard is a reliable option. And I like the look it produces too. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for sharing the tip Ruben. I'll likely use a release agent on my next rocket stove build. I'll likely go with a wax versus oil, but I think the principle is the same. I know it will save me a lot of time on setting up the cardboard. Thanks for watching.
I have a house that used to be a stagecoach weigh station, took down the chimney and kept the clay-fire bricks, also have 4" x4' ceramic tube used to connect stove to chimney, wondering if there is a way to incorporate the materials into a rocket stove?
Yes! If the ceramic tube can be cut, slice it at a 45 degree angle at 12 inches, leaving a 3 foot riser. Cement those pieces into an “L” with refractory cement or go organic with mud. Then use your bricks to build a surround around the “L,” leaving a 3 to 4 inch air gap to be filled with a similar concrete/sand/perlite mix or try a clay/sawdust mixture. That’s just a idea off the top of my head and there are likely multiple variations using the materials you’ve got. Have fun. Let me know what you build. Thanks for watching.
Made one this weekend using a 3 gallon bucket. Turned out great. I poured hot water over the outside of the bucket to release the mold after about 16 hours and it slid right out.
@@michaelbaldwin6543 It would be safest to let it cure the full 28 days. I learned this the hard way. Another good tip I got multiple times in the comments is to cure it wet. You can wrap it in plastic and wet it down. The wetter the concrete during the cure, the stronger it will be (That, from my civil engineer father). I know it is hard to wait to burn this, but it will be worth it.
Just an idea to help making stable standoffs. If you use a bolt you could put a nut on either side of the bucket bottom. Tighten them to each other at the 3/4" desired distance. They will be very secure. Remove the outside nut to remove from stove from form.
you can also reuse your underpants and save a half gallon of water by not washing them....are people really this obsessive over a bit of rainwater? dudes it falls from the sky
@Charlie Rothwill yep they forget about all the volcanoes and heat vents located throughout the world that spit out trillion upon trillions of tons of C02 DAILY
@Charlie Rothwill Not to mention the fire they started in California (The Campfire) that mysteriously fried many of the houses and many trees nearby left untouched. Yet they insist because we exhale co2 and pass methane gas not to leave out the terrible cows gestating and even pumpkins, that we are a virus to the planet, yet they pump all sorts of chemicals and carbon monoxide out of all of the planes along with the nuclear plants they never maintain and built on Faultline's, tsunami zones, at the base of volcanoes. One volcano like the one in the Hawaiian islands puts out more pollution than the entire population and turns near by lakes into acid. The wars they cause as diversions and money in their pockets, nuclear testing when it should be banned. The answer is to plant more trees and much less government.
@@GreenShortzDIY Don't forget your skin is the largest organ of your body and it's a sponge so when you're out in that rain only God knows what you're soaking up so when these people cry over a little waste water, they need to understand the filtering you have to do before your cats and dogs drink it and that same rain water is poisoning our crops. Good job on the stove.
Think that's gonna Be light??? Try aircrete you can't burn that stuff and it's better than insulation and lighter than what your making now and guess what it will float in water.... look it up make one out of that lets see how that works.... Oh yeah use Pam cooking spray on your bucket with the aircrete you will be surprised keep the videos coming...
Ha. Not light, but lighter than the original. :-). I have seen some aircrete videos. Amazing stuff. I’ll may have to play with that. Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for watching.
TIM LASHLEY Amazing that you were able to calculate the exact minimum number of days needed for this amount of aircrete. The government should hire you to figure out their budget; I'm sure that would be a piece of cake given your aircrete calculations were so accurate and precise.
Guess what happens to gasses (like the air in aircrete) when you heat it up... It expands. When it expands, that puts the concrete in tension. Concrete doesn't handle tension well,so you get spalling. Even the air in the perlite can cause the same effect to some extent so some people will coat their perlite in a pozzolan clay or soak it in CO2 from dry ice (the CO2 released helps the cement cure faster)
I think you could make a tray to let the ashes fall on . Take a flat piece of metal bend up the sides attach a handle and it will catch all the ashes. I also think the lighter weight is worth taking to camp site. I do not know it perlite can withstand the intense heat. Hope everything goes well. A worthwhile project. 🌟
I used to collect concrete samples for testing, we would use a rod and tamp/work each layer of the 3 layers of concrete in the sample container. I think that it was 75 strokes of the rod, but that was supposed to be working the concrete enough to be sufficient.
Grease would work, but what a mess. Use veggie oil and it will just dissolve into the concrete/wipe off into it. Stick old newpaper to the inside with oil (or even water, it that's allowed) and you'll be golden.
I have an idea for an improvement. Instead of the rebar, get three long bolts, stick about 4-6 nuts on each of them. You can use the bolts through the bottom of the bucket to hold the nuts in place, which will get cast into the top of the stove. After casting, you can remove the bolts to take the stove out of the form and put them back into the nuts. You now have a rocket stove with an height-adjustable and levelable cooking surface.
You would only be able adjust the height by no more than 1/2 the depth of the nut or the nut will just drop off!
@@mgsiddle that's why you use a stack of nuts. Another option would be to put a small tube below the nut, to allow the bolt to drop down into it.
@@AJPemberton I think you are missing the point. No matter how many nuts you use you can’t change the length of the bolts. Winding the nuts up and down the bolts won’t adjust the height. What would work would be to fix several nuts into the concrete, for each bolt. Then you could wind the bolts up and down into the base of the rocket stove. Then again I think we are talking about the same thing but I misunderstood what you meant which is a great idea! Lol.
I think the idea is the nuts are cast into the concrete and there's a void where bolt is screwed down. You back the bolts out, remove the form and screw the bolts back into the nuts in the concrete. Grease the threads up, though, so the cement doesn't bond to your bolts in that void below the nut
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
I've watched almost hundreds of rocket stove videos. Thank you for being a good and thoughtful teacher. I am especially impressed that you actually listen to your viewers and incorporate their suggestions into your projects which only helps EVERYONE you are trying to reach. I am absolutely going to follow you, and I appreciate what you are doing and how you are doing it. Kudos.
P.s. did you ever add the j stove ? Can't find video and really want to.
I didn’t. But, I’ll make that video. Thank you for watching.
Ditto
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
This is what the Internet is really for.
Learning together.
Thank you, Sir, for taking in the crowd-info and using it to improve and giving it back to us.
You're welcome Jennifer...thanks for watching.
Ok me gustó. muchísimo gracias pity videos
That's right Jennifer, our pal Al Gore invented the internet for the sole purpose of community service and learning. Well said. 👍
These video's are a must see for the homeless.
I can and will modify this stove to also be used as a Boiler Unit for a Heat Transfer into Tents.
Hold my Bong and Watch THIS !
Larry Toporek I think u have names wrong. Maybe ross
Never heard of a rocket stove until today. Saw a couple of videos today and can’t say how much I love the idea.i also love the comments that folks wrote down. You did a great job of explaining what and why you did everything. Thank you very much .
Thanks for the feedback, Nicholas. Thanks for watching.
Reredrer ewwewww I
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
I like the way you took the comments as constructive criticism rather than attacks like many would. Makes you seem like a fun and great man.
Instead of rebars you can use muffin pan as mold and make three little legs for holding pan. It's safe for usage purposes instead of iron rods popping out. Excellent job done. God bless you.
For your next cement/concrete project, when you're done and take the forms or cardboard off, spray your project with water or pour on for a few days. That will help make it stronger by prolonging the drying up process among other reasons.
Nice job nonetheless, I'm going to build one for myself!
Slower drying = slower shrinkage = less likelihood of cracks
Longer cure = stronger product :)
I gotta say - you're a humble guy.
So MUCH correction. I have learned a ton - i love your can-do attitude. I can't help but wonder if those who have offered so MUCH advice, have actually done this project? I will. Im so doing this.
Mr Greenshorts. I'm late to this party I know, but just wanted to say that
I'm hugely impressed at the way you welcome tips and suggestions and "brainstorming" without any offense taken, thus making them HUGE fun as well as informative. Thank you.
great work. just a suggestion to add more strength to the concrete after drying. water the whole stove twice a day for the next 3 or 5 days. if it rains, let it rain. trust me, that will prolong life and prevent cracks. this is a proven practice in the area Saudi Arabia where i live. thanks again for sharing. i may do this for my desert camping😃
True. But, you could simply immerse the whole thing in a large water filled drum for about 2 weeks. water will cure even more effectively under water. Here in the U.S.A. where I live concrete bridge construction is always cured under huge tarp-covers that are kept wet. Just as you have pointed out the wet-cure is far more effective in terms of increasing strength and preventing strees cracks from forming.
@@xysix2548
easier still, just wrap completely in a polythene refuse bag and leave it in a shady corner for a month
Great build! IDEA: To add secondary air and raise cooking height make another section the same way to sit over the first. It will increase draft and you can direct the air intake to vortex in the flue. Use the rebar to align and link the two sections. You may have to improve the base for stability but cooking height should be very comfortable while increasing burn temperature and efficiency.
Good ideas, Tyler. Thank you for sharing. Thanks for watching.
Yes! Vortex solution and simply add rebar “feet” for stability, all the way across for less side stress. Ash slide out pan works perfectly with that addition!
To improve this stove I recommend a 5" diameter vertical pipe instead of 4" which believe it or not gives 56% more cross sectional area in the pipe and 56% more power. 5" pipe would be 5.5" outer diameter and will give you 2.25" thick wall on the top of the rocket stove because the bucket is 10 inches diameter at the bottom. Then instead of milk Jug use 2x6 lumber which is 5.5 inches wide which is perfect for a 5" pipe, or if you don't have 5 inch pipe wrap a 4 inch pipe in few layers of cardboard to achieve 5 5 inches. The base of a bucket where the fire will be needs to be fatter. Bucket is 12 inch wide there so the chamber should be ideally 6 or 7 inches in diameter. To maximize the flow of air and to allow room for fire wood. I would ideally recommend to stack 3 pieces of 2x6. You can even screw this to your pipe.
4 inch pipe is very limited. I find that 5 inch is the minimum if you want to boil mid size pots of food. Mid size as in 1 to 2 gallon size pots. Ideally I like rocket stove from 6 inch pipe which I did made in a rectangular small recycling bin. My 8 inch pipe made from full size recycling bin works the best and is actually 9 inch diameter because the 8 inch pipe has half in holes. For this project if you want to cook pots of food and really use this stove I recommend you find a large diameter extra large bucket of small garbage bin and you use a 6 inch pipe or you can use empty paint cans which are 6.5 inches in diameter and free often. Perfect for 8 liter pots.
Some suggestions for outside texture and beauty. Peel the inner layer of the cardboard to create a corrugated texture. Or, cut out different shapes such as leaf designs, mountains or geometric squares, rectangles, and triangles and apply then to the inside layer of cardboard using glue or tape. Gluing leaves onto the cardboard prior to inserting the cardboard works as well. When peeled, just like the texture created from the lines when rolling up the cardboard, these impressions will be a part of the exterior. Once when I was finishing a slab on a windy day, as leaves blew over the concrete surface I got tired of picking them out leaving some behind. When I was finished, I wished I had left more of them in because of the accidental beauty added. After staining the concrete, the leaf impressions really added beauty. On another note, left alone, concrete will cure 95% in 28 days. I could imagine with adding heat when firing up the stove could help speed up this cure time as well. Allowing the concrete to cure longer than five days as suggested in the video will result in less cracking for years ahead.
Wow! You really rock.
The improvements you made are great. What a wonderful design for a durable and efficient stove.
The milk jug and PVC taped up with cardboard seems like a brilliant solution for the average builder.
The next step according to Dr. Winiarski, is creating a skirt to surround the pot, and improve heat transfer.
dude, I like your attention to detail. I agree with Jennifer Grove. This is what the internet is and should be used for.... learning.. well done..
Thanks David. I do appreciate the great comments, suggestions and ideas. Thanks for watching.
To much water kills cement strength. try wet cure for 7-28 days. chicken wire is a good idea and multiple layers would be good. try 1:2:3 cement/sand/perlite. you could also try vermiculite (expanded rock). rebar bent in circles would also help prevent the vertical crack. Over all, nice. Your a good teacher
I actually like the idea of cardboard mold release. It will hold moisture up against the stove, to keep it from drying too fast. It may be a good part of why it's held up so well and avoided cracking.
Just a thought... Instead of rebar, maybe drop in anchors... That way you can use different sized bolts to adjust the height
No. You'dd have to rotohammer, drive in and set those anchors. You'd split the wall on at least one place. Cast the rod in
David Cummings No, would actually work very well. You just bolt the anchors to the form (bucket), using a flat washer on the inside and a short bolt. This is a great idea!
I used 2" lag bolts and nuts all the way down the screw. Placed one nut on then slid it through the hole in the bottom of the bucket. Next I threaded nuts on until the end of the screw. Poured the concrete over the assembly and this created an adjustable height pot stand. Not "green" like using old rebar, but very effective.
Useful, clear, fun to watch! Learning from suggestions? Wonderful! I also love the natural way you involve your son in building, creating something useful, a compost bin!! Lovely parenting! Thank you for sharing!
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
Great video! FYI the standard cure period for maximum strength concrete is 28 days. Although it continues to harden forever it achieves the majority its strength in 28 days. Also, keeping the concrete moist during the curing period is a good thing. Curing is a chemical process that involves the growth of crystalline structures that is aided by moisture.
Does not harden forever. Begins to rot after several decades.
Concrete gains 90% of its cure in first 28 days, the remaining 10% in next few years/decades (depending on mixture, climate, thickness, etc.).
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete
The only mixture that continues to cure indefinitely is perfectly manufactured Limecrete (and that stuff hasn’t been made the right way since the fall of the Western Roman Empire). Notice there are ruins left from Rome, but the building blocks are often still whole and just disassembled/toppled creating the “ruin.” The Romans Hydrated the Lyme for up to five years with daily stirring, then mixing with volcanic ash to make their structures.
Don't you realise stoves made with cement concrete will burst like bombs when the fire temperature reaches a certain point? I've faced this. Is there any tips?
Love the projects brother. Being a concrete forman for many years...may i suggest any form of cooking oil on the interior of your bucket. Normally when we pour walls or columns, we just spray everything down with cooking oil for easy release/removal of the finished product. I would love to see how the oil would work in that type situation. Keep up the great work. 4 thumbs up!
Thank you my brother from another mutha. I love getting info from the pros. Thanks for the oil idea. I am definitely going to get rid of the card board form work in the next rocket stove build. Thanks for the feedback and the encouraging words.
I was thinking mold release wax for composite molds but oil is a much better idea. Thanks
Used motor oil works great as well, I use it to release concrete from molds ( I make gardening pots in plastic pails)
@@deepakthadhani non-edible plants I hope, many contaminates in used oil I wouldn't want to ingest.
M Via Mr know all, if you knew everything then what are you doing on YT? Stop putting other tradesmen down. If he described it as “cooking oil” at least it will be easier for laymen to understand rather using technical jargons.
Old wood cook stoves I've seen use an ash pan. That way you just pull the pan an use them in your garden or they are great for putting on icy places you walk or drive. Thanks for sharing.
You can use cooking oil, and brush it on with a small paint brush or paper towels as a mold release. Use boiling hot water on the mold ( pour it on to expand the plastic), and it should slip right off.
I have some ideas to improve this design. How about having it up higher so you don't have to squat so much to fuel it and to cook on it. Also I think it should be longer to increase the length by joining 2 buckets and if it is longer it roars - like a rocket. Love your work. Also bend the metal bars 90 degrees so the pot sits easier on it. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter. Good feedback. I have made a sand table for all of my stoves. I call it Rocket Stove Row. :-) This particular stove recently got a heat-sink grill (video), a custom firebox (video), a custom stand (video), and a custom ash tray/fuel bridge (video). It has evolved into quite a series. Now I just need to upgrade the stove. :-) Thanks for the feedback. Thanks for watching.
He's young & flexible...good suggestion tho'
What is the mixture of the sand and cement.? Thanx.
Perlite and portland makes for a strong, light, and insulating concrete that i used to line the chimney in my house. I tested it with a oxy acetylene torch and hammer ....that was 5 yrs. ago and no cracks or debris in chimney since!
Mike, thanks for the info from your experience. I’m glad to know the cement and perlite mixture does so well. Thanks for watching.
In what proportions?
Mike Christensen 🇨🇩green shorts Diyarbakir
Your procedure of making it is very easy that everyone can do and its very nice and helpful. But i see a little adjustment if i make my own. I will bend the extending steel 2"-3" to have a good hold of the pans or cooking bowls.
Or weld an old bbq crate to the top of the rebar.
>Why drill 3 new holes in bottom of bucket, when you could've just re-drilled/enlarged the existing holes?
>By having re-bar exposed, will it not rust over time, expand inside concrete and cause cracks/splits? If a person had some stainless steel bolts could those be used, or would there be any sort of reaction between the stainless steel and the concrete?
>Regarding the comments/suggestions that you could've used wax or some form of releasing agent instead of the cardboard: I would say that using the cardboard is a GOOD idea -- as you are using something that costs $0 and was going to be disposed of...so why spend money on something else? But as with all things -- everyone has their own opinion.
>Is there any danger from the heat causing the concrete to break?
Thank you for showing how you made this version.
At first I had no idea what was a rocket stove ..I thought of something blowing up! Ha ha ha I was intrigued. You explained everything in detail. Loved that you also displayed viewer comments and applied the best practices to your work. I enjoyed the video not only on your efficiency on explaining everything but you did the trial and error work already for us. Great job. Thank you. Loved it.
Thank you for all the comments and encouragement. Merci.
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
Nice! I like the improvements. Can’t wait to see the weight/heat improvements. Also, really appreciate your generous appreciation of some not-so-polite suggestions.
Nice design, thanks for sharing. Consider adding a double layer of bricks at your base to make ash remover easier and give more space for hot embers to increase your heat duration without refueling. Another thought...the tripod top/ rebar restricts the minimum diameter of your pot. Maybe using a small raised grate partially embedded in the concrete?
Cool info, I’ve seen old gas oven grates used as well.
I built one of these today. I'll see how it comes out. I actually made a copper pipe coil round the pvc pipe with an inlet and outlet for heating water :)
maybe to funnels end to end to make a venturi
Great idea!!!!!
I like your style !! Appreciate the feedbacks from your viewers and how you incorporate them. Fantastic distraction from watching political videos!! Keep up the great work.
This is the most clever Marco's ad I've ever seen in my life. I ordered 3!
Great video quality and well executed build. I suggest using longer rebar that is bent toward the center of the top to increase the support area and allow the use of smaller cooking vessels
Also, provide some means to fasten a sheet metal curtain above the rim of the stove. Users of small backpacking style stoves can attest to the vastly improved efficiency afforded by those
Thank You! A simple build with simple tools and simple explanation. I appreciate your hard work in making it simple!
Thanks Keith. Sometimes I start out more complicated and then try to remove complexity. About half the time a make a video after the initial build. The other half, I got out there with the over built prototype. :-) Thanks for watching.
I am inspired.
Please wear a mask when pouring and mixing dry concrete just a bit of that dust inhaled is wicked.
I use vegetable oil for my mold releaser. I make papercrete planters.
Thank you for these videos, you are a good host. So receptive to comments and applying the ideas.
Carry on
Thanks for the encouraging words, Elizabeth. And I hear you on the concrete dust warning. I’ll remember my mask next time. :-) Thanks for watching.
A half-mask respirator ($20-ish) actually seals to your face and saves you from exposure to silica dust, which causes scar tissue in the lungs. Look up "silicosis". Scar tissue doesn't work well for breathing.
Do you have a video for making those planters? I would like to see how thats done.
I've been watching a professional concrete installer on you tube, he coats his forms with motor oil. Probably less expensive than a mold release product.
Teflon gloves when using a box cutter and the grinder wheel would be a good idea. Thanks for the video, I might try making a rocket stove..
tip for concrete, dont rush to remove it from bucket and cardboard, in fact , put plastic on top and leave it for weeks, this keeps it wetter longer and cures stronger in the end, does require the patience though, and of course the slow drying out afterwards too
Ah...patience...why so elusive. :-). Thanks for the suggestions. I will incorporate on the next build. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely ✔ and may I add : get a haircut or grow your whiskers during the long curing interval ! This will discourage most of the triflers and wannabes!! 😆
The goal is not for the concrete to "dry" the concrete needs to cure. It can cure underwater, so it doesn't need to dry. Where does the water go if it doesn't evaporate? It doesn't go anywhere. It chemically bonds and stays there in the mass. The water is all still there. If the surface dries before the concrete cures then the surface does not cure properly. It would be better if you removed the trash can lid and let the rain keep it wet or even spray it with the hose for a few days. (That's my 2 cents. Let the flaming begin.)
Ugly Angel < - - No flames,...LOL,... good suggestion. Cheers
A milk jug of rainwater. Señor Chadwick must have trolled. Please, please, please, may that be true. Superbly handled Mr. Greenshortz.
I did the exact same thing to make a base for a patio light pole. I used a new bucket from Home Depot. The concrete came out without a hitch. I would expect wax, engine oil or even diesel fuel (thin coating of either) would work well as a release agent. When i had my patio poured, the contractor used diesel fuel as a release agent to coat his texturing molds.
You could add a few holes, angled clockwise or counterclockwise, to feed the flame about midway to the top, with air, that would help with burning more of the fuel in the flames. You could even have the holes lead to a slightly larger chamber, where the fire can be mixed with air. The angled air sources will help rotate the airflow inside, to have the added air be uniformly mixed in the fire, to burn off more of the fuel that would end up as smoke.
Thanks for the suggestion and the proper location of the holes. I may add some using my hammer drill. I want to test this a bit as is, before making this modification. Thanks for watching.
Offset air feed vs main riser tube accomplishes the same effect.
Also, one could use some fins or "waves" in the cast, to accomplish tiny (fire) tornadoes, which help burn more of the fuel.
Great video, Thank you for your hard work. The extra air is important. however, it needs to be preheated. Best to add it from below and behind the burning tips of the wood sticks; as in "Winiarski Rocket Stove". I think the cold air will not work for the super hot combustion you speak of.
I'm not sure about that, since it can be heated quickly, once it mixes in with the flames. Sure, it might be better to preheat it, but it's not necessary. Even more so if not much heat is lost to a termal mass (like cob/mud/dirt).
Your video popped up after watching a similar video, never heard of such a stove, thank you for sharing and I appreciated how you used other viewers ideas to improve your design and showing us while doing so. Thank you...
You're welcome Therese. Thank you for the encouragement. Thanks for watching.
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
I use a Cement called "Refractory Cement", mixed with crushed brick for insulation.
Thanks for the suggestion, Jeff. I need to order some refractory cement. I’ve also been practicing making aircrete. Still have a little more tweaking to get it right. Thanks for watching.
Perlite or vermiculite is the best insulation around you could use powered clay to the mix as well and instead of just rain water you can make water glass 🧐 or is it glass water anyway it’s a high temp refractory adhesive. Great video bruv keep the videos coming please thank you.
Just like making a cake; once you fill the round or rectangular pans with cake filling before you put it into the oven, be sure & tap your filled pans slightly on top of counter or stove top & put in oven to back. It makes for a better more solid consistency without air bubbles in your cake! Comes out more evenly baked!
Haven't finished watching entire video, but just amazed that after crowing about "re-using" video as well as the rainwater jug, you actually went & TAPED UP three perfectly good holes & DRILLED 3 NEW ONES instead of just enlarging the original 3 holes! Wow..
Ha. True. But all I had was a spade bit, which needs a fresh center. Thanks for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY Ah, okay.. nice job otherwise. Was wondering why you didn't add that copper coil & water barrel setup to make hot water while you're cooking, but I assumed you'd probably got a solar thingy or whathaveyou already in place ("solar thingy" is city-slicker name for it!). This was 1st vid of yours I caught, so figured I should review a few b4 any more critiques! I'm now daydreaming about building a big one of those (free-forming it over hardware cloth armature, then covering w tile sample mosaic) in my backyard, but have to check if they're legal in NYC.. Anyway, thanks for the posts & response.
@@cableknitter7346 Thanks for the reply. My copper coil videos are more recent than the concrete rocket stove build you saw. That is usually the video of mine people see first. It's the hot one right now. :-) In NYC you could always mod an old grill an put a rocket stove inside. Of course, that defeats the decorative tile mosaic. You could always make the mosaic one and disguise it with a potted plant on top when you're not using it. BTW, critique is welcome here. Lot's of great ideas and suggestions come via the comments. You'd be surprised how many commenters razz me about the extra holes. lol! My most popular comment, fact. Thanks for watching.
Love your stove I did one years ago and it came out just fine. My next on4e will be the same as your design thank youi for your video`s i love watching them from Australia. god bless
So it works..
@@EstanciaTimesDocumentary ََليالذاااااااتنيلشسسلكنير
You could use rebar in the shape of a squared U. This give you standoffs for your pot, AND handles to Cary the stove with.
Another good idea, Robert. I may have to try that. Thanks for the feedback.
I'm impressed by how many comments you used as feedback for this video. Good picks :)
Thank you. I had a couple of years of comments to sift through for this. Lots of snarky ones too. 😎 Thanks for watching.
yes...good job engaging with your viewers. hear hear
I’m so grateful for you doing this , all the addition can be a progressional process
Thank you for watching, Allen. And for the encouragement.
Small bag of fibers for concrete will add tons of strength and reduce weight as well. Thank you for showing good detail. The hammer taping works really well too.
Your videos are awesome! Have you considered doing a video on a pool/hot tub/off grid hot water rocket stove heater type of design? I'm looking to add copper pipe inside of your design to create a thermal siphon to pull cold water from the pool without electricity. Was hoping you might have something in the works.
Thanks Patrick. I have thought about a similar idea...to heat water for an outdoor shower application, with water under house pressure or gravity-fed rain water. I'd be interested to see how your thermal siphon worked. You might consider a double height (two bucket tall) set up, with proper stabilization. Don't want that falling over. Or perhaps a rocket mass heater with an internal coil in the riser. I think as long as you had water in the copper it wouldn't melt (1984 degree F melting point). I like the exposed copper in the chimney versus embedding in the concrete. Easier to observe, maintain and switch out. I say go for it. Experiment. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
This is a great channel. My dad would love to watch this channel.
Awesome content friend!! I love what you did and i need to replicate for myself! One suggestion, id continue with the threaded studs so you can use a coupling to adjust the level difference when not on perfect ground. Either way this is an amazing rocket stove! Thank you
Yeah, my thoughts exactly
I made like that kind of stove in 1996 because we want to save some gas bills and besides there's a lot of firewood then. Right now it is still there and it was brought up in the 4th floor of our house--rooftop. You know the suggestion of using chicken wire is the best, I wrapped it around the and use some finer sand and more cement that's what i did since in the long run the whole stove will crack because of too much heat just to keep it intact...i don't know if perlite that you use will help. i don't use any iron stakes to hold my pot, i used the old stove pot support for more stability that can hold any sizes of pots, pans and all. sometimes when there is no chair available in the rooftop i sit on it...how useful my stove was. i was into this kind of DIY that makes life easier and economical. Kudos to y ou!
Very educational. With that stove will even allow one to utilize small wood twigs and branches and even pieces of papers, cardboards, and charcoals to generate heat energy. And most importantly, the heat energy generated is utilized most efficiently because the heat is CONCENTRATED directly under the bottom of the pan. It is a substantial improvement over the traditional stoves i've ever seen in many Villages across many Countries in South East Asia and Africa. Tnx for sharing.
Wow! this is the best rocket stove design that I ever have seen, great job, love the design plan you made, if ok, I like to make one for myself, because you made it so simple. Thank you for sharing. I really enjoy watching your video.
Thanks Rodney. Of course you can make one. Let me know how it goes. Merry Christmas. Thanks for watching.
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
I actually love the idea of heavy concrete for a heat sink. Once it does get heated up it will continue to radiate heat quite a while after the fire has gone out. That could be handy in a cold winter where I live.
Don't you realise stoves made with cement concrete will burst like bombs when the fire temperature reaches a certain point? I've faced this. Is there any tips?
Awesome vid Just so you know that is not a grinding wheel, its a cutoff wheel and could blow apart if used incorrectly
You are correct. I was not using the right tool for the job. Thanks for the feedback. Thanks for watching.
God yes! So dangerous. I had a cut off wheel blow apart on me a few years back. So glad I am a stickler for proper PPE!
I'm glad you told him -- I would not want him to get hurt! If he keeps using a cutoff for a grinder-- he will.
@@GreenShortzDIY 4அஆ7அஅ444
54otor Okus quiet
Interesting design. I'd recommend making the feed hole taller and laying 3 or 4 short rebar lengths across, about 2" off the ground, to allow airflow under the fuel. That would up the performance noticeably. You could also include a mount for a j tube to the outside of the shape. Just a thought.
I absolutely love this. As for any improvements, maybe a handle like on the buckets for easier transport.
We should be neighbors, you do some cool things. I'm making 3 of these for our back yard cookouts.
Thanks for sharing this project video. Rick Rivera in Stockton CA
I’ve never heard of a rocket stove, but you’re such a good teacher I watched it all. I’ll watch the cob stove video too. Question: could you put the stove and grate up on a concrete stand, so no need to crouch to feed it, and cook? My knees would be happier... 😊
Thank you for watching. Yes the stove can be elevated. That’s not a bad idea. My knees aren’t young anymore either. :-) it would need to be a pretty beefy stand, to handle the weight. Perhaps similar to the table built for the cob oven, with an insulated layer of sand. Thanks for the feedback.
Use a top loading batch box with an 'adapter' vertical in the lid so you can also feed it with sticks.
DreamingCatStudio You are in for a fantastic journey... three years ago I built a free standing rocket with a 55 gallon barrel for heat... incredibly efficient.
Also look into rocket-mass-heater... big fun.
check out a site called permies. I learned all about rocket stoves and rocket mass heaters there, I hope to build something this year
DreamingCatStudio awesome awesome awesome tku for the remake
you just like to build stuff , don't you? I like it !
Guilty as charged. :-) I think you’ve figured me out. Thanks for watching.
try making one with Air Crere (soapy foam cement mix)... super light, super strong and self insulating
great video
Thanks for the suggestion. And thanks for watching.
Yes- shampoo works way better than soap . Fyi
Love the sound of that train. Good design. Use the ash left for snow melting and path clearing in the snow, also add to garden for potash which supplies nitrogen for plants.
What is this "snow" you speak of? :-) I definitely use the ash in the garden.Thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching.
Awesome very creative like your rocket stove concrete will last for millions of years.
You're doing an excellent job!
I have a lot of nutshells and I have discovered that they burn realy bright and hot when i did just put them on the glowing coals in my woodstoof. I would like to have a rocket stoof design that works like pelletstoof but instead of using pellets using nutshells which I can feed to the rocketstoof. I want this because I am a hobby moonshiner and want to distill my mesh with it. With a feeding pipe I can just leave it for a while and not have stay with it to put branches in it all the time.
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Great video , and thanks for your time in making this video , and to show all those troll's out there that everything people make is not always perfect , but thank you sir . And keep doing what you do don't worry about troll's comments.
Thank you for the good words, Solo. I appreciate it. Ever notice how most of the trolls here on RUclips don;t make videos, they just criticize those who are. :-) Thanks for watching.
I'm Filipino watch your own design rocket stove and it's amazing for people in third world. It's simple and materials are readily available. Next video if you can incorporate the lower grill for the ashes in the concrete so that when it transfer the location of the stove no need to for a bricks on the ground.
Thanks for letting me learn how to make the rocket stove. Can't wait to see you show us the 45°angle self feeder...
What do you think about this brick rocket stove innovation with auto fuel feeder? ruclips.net/video/v_ahLpSiS_o/видео.html
Actually, I think using chicken wire on small concrete works well. Used some recycled chicken wire in a quickie, approximate 3” thick garden path walkway, and used one of those cobblestone forms.
The chicken wire was closer to the bottom1/3 of the thickness, so none poked up to the top.
Some 10 or so years later, needed to move some of it. Lifting up sections, found they were still well-connected by the chicken wire, making the sections real hard to move...tools & grunt-work involved. The moved sections stayed intact & usable elsewhere...no cracking.
So, considering the application...
Of course, chicken wire is too mingy to hold bigger &/or load-bearing of heavier loads.
But chicken wire is fine to give more strength to small projects, including your stove!
So’s whatever recycled old fence wire that might be handy. Just consider the project & it’s use, to figure how much reinforcing it really needs.
Adam Sandler goes off-grid.
Great video. I want to have a go of this but imbed a copper water coil within the concrete to use as a pool water heater.
Reckon that’ll work?
Yes!
Great video!
I noticed that the tool you refer to as a "spade bit" is called a 'paddle bit" in my part of the country. I'm always intrigued by little differences in dialect like that
Hi! This is a version of the Plains Indian (Lakota) dual cooking hole fire I've used successfully since childhood. One thing that''s different-the Lakota version uses two holes (a forearm plus a hand to fingertip depth) spaced by the same amount through a connecting tunnel. Fuel is dropped down into the hole as needed. A windscreen (away from the wind side) of the draw hole improves breathing. Hole is about a palm width in diameter.
How well do they work? Using green wood twigs and sticks, dug into British clay around Uffington in England, the fire was hot enough to roar in eight minutes. It baked the clay into brick in six hours. It softened a heavy iron grate into uselessness in an evening. It burned everything into just ash. It boiled water faster than the Coleman cook stove. We had two tea kettles and one three gallon pot of stew going at the same time, besting the performance of the two burner Coleman by a wide margin.
When done with the campout, we just waited until the fire was cold, then put the excavated earth back in and topped it with the cut plugs of turf. In a few weeks there's no evidence of a fire.
Your feed ramp is a good idea, but I do not think it is optimal for drawing air in. Volume and speed are important to get towards a really hot fire. I'd eliminate the ramp, and then build a chimney in diameter sized draw, putting it out to the side. Just drop the fuel in directly.
If you use an insulated or perlite concrete tube that's removable, then you can clean out the ashes by waiting until the whole thing cools, removed the tube and pull out ashes.
I'm going to use your construction experience for my outdoor stove next month. Thank you so much for sharing the entirety of your build and design.
Gordon, Thanks for the feedback and the stories from your experience. I think you’re correct about the feed ramp not being necessary, certainly not along with a grate. The grate works well on its own. I’ll have to try the Lacota fire hole. I’ve seen videos before. Pretty cool. Thanks for the tips on that. Thanks for watching.
What is better than a man who can create? Ans: A man who creates, takes feedback & also gives credit wherever due. New sub here.
I might not make a rocket stove but I can learn so much from your attitude, makes me want to be a better-er person. Much love!
Thank you for the encouragement. Thanks for watching. :-)
@@GreenShortzDIY Thank YOU for the encouragement, mistuh!! :D
The higher heat and better combustion comes from air flow velocity so you just need to increase the hight of the chimney. Insulating at this hight will do little to nothing.
Thanks for the info, Brad. I’m going to add a J-Tube to this stove, which I hope will add some velocity. I don’t want to make this version any taller, so I will have to live with the thermal specs. However, I do plan to make a rocket mass heater in the fall, which will incorporate a much taller riser. Thanks for watching.
First, the cement perlite and sand ratio needs to be more like 1:3:2 to gain any significant insulation at all. Real insulating concrete is as much as 1:8 cement to perlite.
Second, the "heat sink" of concrete is completely insignificant in this situation. 100% guarantee it wouldn't boil water any faster. Go ahead and test it, next vid, with a controlled fuel like charcoal or something.
It does make it lighter though, and probably less likely to crack if it gets too hot. Perlite does make the concrete a lot weaker too, so its a trade off.
Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. And the ratios were a big help too. Thanks for watching.
If we check the outside temperature of the cement block it can tell about the efficiency.
I use a mix like that for kiln refractory bricks - as you say, the trade off is that the more perlite you use, the less durable it will be
Use a Chinese wok with this rocket stove. Perfect. Thanks, I'm making 1 of these.
Excellent. Good luck with your rocket stove build. Thanks for watching.
We dont need anything from you(China). Thanks for giving Virus to the whole world.
Have you considered tack welding (or if you use bolts, drill and bolt it) a large cooking pot upside down on your pot rests. As long as it has enough clearance for air flow it will act as chimney cover/burn plate and help you to capture more heat. If you use a long pot like a stock pot or even a small metal barrel (beware of galvanised metal) and rest it on a ring of metal or concrete just above the fuel feed opening and adding an exhaust port somewhere low on the pot or the ring it rests on you could create that secondary burn chamber. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the idea Kirk! I’ve been thinking of ways to grill a steak and this would probably work great! I’ll flip over my big cast iron pot on some fire brick chunks to test this. Will make a video on this. Watch for your comment in it. Credit where credit is due. Thanks again.
@@GreenShortzDIY My pleasure! Can't wait to see how it works
Nice job. Yes you did note that you were going to let the concrete dry for 4 or 5 days which is a good safe idea. In addition to letting people know why it’s so important for concrete to be dry before exposing it to high heat is that water expands 1700 times when converted to steam. Need I say more? One could experience anything from a crack or spalling (pieces of concrete blowing off) if the concrete is to wet.
Great job! It looks so nice.
I've got to make one now. Thanks so much!
Thanks for watching Alacia. Good luck with your rocket stove build.
I would like to see someone place or weld a steel plate on the risers to evenly distribute the heat and reduce the carbon buildup on your cookware.
What about using the quart milk jug "form" as the inside chamber. Providing a "venturi" effect????
Thank you for the technique of making the furnace. This method can be used for saving energy oil and electricity. We return to the environment friendly period.
No matter what you do, or how you do it, the watchers will pile on with comments....
Almost all are RUclips “experts”, who have never climbed into the “Arena” themselves.
Few “gems”, but there is obviously a lot of discarding of the babble comments necessary.
Glade some people are willing to go to the effort to share a chunk of themselves by posting how-to videos!
Bravo!
Thank you for all the good feedback, Cliff. I appreciate it. I’ve had less nasty comments of late, perhaps the trolls realize they are wasting their time, not mine. :-) But, you are right, the meanest comments usually come from those who have never posted a thing. Thank you for watching and for the encouragement.
That’s what the comment section is for. Didn’t you just use to criticize other commentators ? It’s called critique not criticism.
Could you use aircrete? I asked b/c I wanna make sure I can carry it around when I get 90 yrs old.
I was thinking the very same thing, and I think someone else on YT made a larger Ricket Stove unit with aircrete but I can't remember who. Maybe Aircrete Harry or the Honey Do Carpenter or a similar channel. I was thinking it could be VERY light weight. Like 35% or 40% of the normal concrete weight.
Thank you for sharing this with us it's a great idea to get away from traditional metal products God bless keep the videos coming 🙋♂️🇬🇧
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How about adding some handles to pick it up on both sides?
or build your rebar tripod pegs into 4 post dual rebar handles
...& wheels
@@julioseviltwin2304 or ROCKETS!
Im going to make one this summer. TY for making the video easy to understand. This is a great public service you're awesome for doing so.😊
Thanks for watching Deb. Good luck with your build. :-)
you have got the molding technique spot on .. I believe the cardboard release agent is the way to go . too many damaged castings when using release agent/ products .
Thank you for the feedback, Richard. I have tried a pour with a release agent. The pipe is still stuck in that concrete. :-) The cardboard is a reliable option. And I like the look it produces too. Thank you for watching.
You could use motor oil before you poor your concrete mixture. Just pour on an old t shirt and coat the bucket.
Ruben Pastran your right
Thanks for sharing the tip Ruben. I'll likely use a release agent on my next rocket stove build. I'll likely go with a wax versus oil, but I think the principle is the same. I know it will save me a lot of time on setting up the cardboard. Thanks for watching.
Mineral oil would better
can of aerosol cooking oil will work too.
I've seen a lot of rocket stoves and like yours best thank you for a great job can't wait to see your next one you make.
You a good illustration, a simple supporting materials you showed and i can easily follow how to make a stove like that, thank you
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I have a house that used to be a stagecoach weigh station, took down the chimney and kept the clay-fire bricks, also have 4" x4' ceramic tube used to connect stove to chimney, wondering if there is a way to incorporate the materials into a rocket stove?
Yes! If the ceramic tube can be cut, slice it at a 45 degree angle at 12 inches, leaving a 3 foot riser. Cement those pieces into an “L” with refractory cement or go organic with mud. Then use your bricks to build a surround around the “L,” leaving a 3 to 4 inch air gap to be filled with a similar concrete/sand/perlite mix or try a clay/sawdust mixture. That’s just a idea off the top of my head and there are likely multiple variations using the materials you’ve got. Have fun. Let me know what you build. Thanks for watching.
Flue tile is the name of it. I build chimneys. And YES that is what you want to use. Also use refractory cement. Or yellow fire brick.
Made one this weekend using a 3 gallon bucket. Turned out great. I poured hot water over the outside of the bucket to release the mold after about 16 hours and it slid right out.
Hot water was a great idea. Have fun with your rocket stove. Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY How long should I wait to fire it up? You mentioned that it wouldn't be fully cured for 28 days.
@@michaelbaldwin6543 It would be safest to let it cure the full 28 days. I learned this the hard way. Another good tip I got multiple times in the comments is to cure it wet. You can wrap it in plastic and wet it down. The wetter the concrete during the cure, the stronger it will be (That, from my civil engineer father). I know it is hard to wait to burn this, but it will be worth it.
Just an idea to help making stable standoffs. If you use a bolt you could put a nut on either side of the bucket bottom. Tighten them to each other at the 3/4" desired distance. They will be very secure. Remove the outside nut to remove from stove from form.
you can also reuse your underpants and save a half gallon of water by not washing them....are people really this obsessive over a bit of rainwater? dudes it falls from the sky
Ha. Likely they were just looking for a gripe. I guess that’s all he had. ;-)
@Charlie Rothwill yep they forget about all the volcanoes and heat vents located throughout the world that spit out trillion upon trillions of tons of C02 DAILY
@Charlie Rothwill Not to mention the fire they started in California (The Campfire) that mysteriously fried many of the houses and many trees nearby left untouched. Yet they insist because we exhale co2 and pass methane gas not to leave out the terrible cows gestating and even pumpkins, that we are a virus to the planet, yet they pump all sorts of chemicals and carbon monoxide out of all of the planes along with the nuclear plants they never maintain and built on Faultline's, tsunami zones, at the base of volcanoes. One volcano like the one in the Hawaiian islands puts out more pollution than the entire population and turns near by lakes into acid. The wars they cause as diversions and money in their pockets, nuclear testing when it should be banned. The answer is to plant more trees and much less government.
@@GreenShortzDIY Don't forget your skin is the largest organ of your body and it's a sponge so when you're out in that rain only God knows what you're soaking up so when these people cry over a little waste water, they need to understand the filtering you have to do before your cats and dogs drink it and that same rain water is poisoning our crops. Good job on the stove.
@@AndyAndy-pt8cy Ahahahahaha!
Think that's gonna
Be light???
Try aircrete you can't burn that stuff and it's better than insulation and lighter than what your making now and guess what it will float in water.... look it up make one out of that lets see how that works.... Oh yeah use Pam cooking spray on your bucket with the aircrete you will be surprised keep the videos coming...
Ha. Not light, but lighter than the original. :-). I have seen some aircrete videos. Amazing stuff. I’ll may have to play with that. Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for watching.
GreenShortz DIY no problem love to see one of these made out of the aircrete only thing bout the aircrete is takes a minimum of 21 days to cure
TIM LASHLEY Amazing that you were able to calculate the exact minimum number of days needed for this amount of aircrete. The government should hire you to figure out their budget; I'm sure that would be a piece of cake given your aircrete calculations were so accurate and precise.
Aircrete isn't cheap.
Guess what happens to gasses (like the air in aircrete) when you heat it up... It expands. When it expands, that puts the concrete in tension. Concrete doesn't handle tension well,so you get spalling. Even the air in the perlite can cause the same effect to some extent so some people will coat their perlite in a pozzolan clay or soak it in CO2 from dry ice (the CO2 released helps the cement cure faster)
i dont have that stuff...just donkey poop and chinchilla fur,any ideas?
Ha! Maybe a garden would be a better option for you. Thanks for watching. :-)
I think you could make a tray to let the ashes fall on . Take a flat piece of metal bend up the sides attach a handle and it will catch all the ashes. I also think the lighter weight is worth taking to camp site. I do not know it perlite can withstand the intense heat. Hope everything goes well. A worthwhile project. 🌟
I used to collect concrete samples for testing, we would use a rod and tamp/work each layer of the 3 layers of concrete in the sample container. I think that it was 75 strokes of the rod, but that was supposed to be working the concrete enough to be sufficient.
Concrete does not stick to plastic you could have used some kind of grease also on the inside of the bucket
Hi Carmen. I’m going try vegetable oil on my next rocket stove build. Thanks for the suggestion.
I was thinking vaseline/petroleum jelly
Grease would work, but what a mess. Use veggie oil and it will just dissolve into the concrete/wipe off into it. Stick old newpaper to the inside with oil (or even water, it that's allowed) and you'll be golden.
Use motor used oil
@@NoahMercy4u Can I use the fresh newspaper? I do not have any old newspaper, only fresh ones.
use j bolts