Enjoying the vid's, looking forward to seeing it running. My prewar Beeza has the same design of Burman gearbox, they are clunky. You have to hold the gear change lever up or down depending on which way you're changing, then ease the clutch out until you feel it go into gear. When changing down, you have to come to an almost stand still to avoid crunching gears. I made new pins for the gear change mechanism, any play at all will translate into dodgy gear change.
@@vintageenthusiast9615 Thanks.... Yeah hopefully getting going by the spring in the UK... I'm trying to be mindful of expecting too much from a 75 year old gearbox. Although the AMC box on my Matchless is lovely to operate.
Thanks for showing that felt washer. I was scratching my head over the location of that, having heard it mentioned, but can't see it on any parts list or schematic. Draganfly do list one for early models, bit the photo makes it look like one for the other end of the pushrod. And gives the impression that it's an early version of the larger rubber sprocket seal. My gearbox sprocket isn't as bad, but is worn, and has 19 teeth, but should be 20, so I've got a replacement on the way. I'm gonna leave the bushes, but about to replace both bearings. The replacement large one came with rubber seals ? Any thoughts on leaving or removing those ? My gear selecter has very worn teeth, and I just got a NOS one arrive. Btw there is mention In the original road tests that when new, the B's were prone to a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd, but no mention as to the cause. Thanks for posting these vids, apart from the inspiration, every picture is worth a thousand words, when forgetting how things go back together. Good luck with it. Regards S.
@@StevenLawrence-f3t Hi Steven... Yup the felt washer surprised me... First time i ever opened up one of these... I have ordered a few parts... I'll post another video. PES who i bought the 2 ball race's from mention the seals on the bearings being beneficial . I haven't read any period road tests funny enough... I'll have a look. I'm only recording for a bit of fun but thanks 🙏
I bent the shim, sprocket washer , removing the bearing, so the replacement arrived today, I'm going to file the sharp wear lip from bigger one on the inner side of the bearing. The ball bearing on the lever arm had a big flatspot. I got an NOS one but the ball is siezed and the thread a tad rusty. I tried electrolysis to clean up my many rusty bits. A pain and not very effective. I've found, soaking stuff in citric acid solution, for a couple of days, way better and easier. Comes up like new Regs S.
Enjoying the vid's, looking forward to seeing it running. My prewar Beeza has the same design of Burman gearbox, they are clunky. You have to hold the gear change lever up or down depending on which way you're changing, then ease the clutch out until you feel it go into gear. When changing down, you have to come to an almost stand still to avoid crunching gears. I made new pins for the gear change mechanism, any play at all will translate into dodgy gear change.
@@vintageenthusiast9615 Thanks.... Yeah hopefully getting going by the spring in the UK... I'm trying to be mindful of expecting too much from a 75 year old gearbox. Although the AMC box on my Matchless is lovely to operate.
Thanks for showing that felt washer. I was scratching my head over the location of that, having heard it mentioned, but can't see it on any parts list or schematic. Draganfly do list one for early models, bit the photo makes it look like one for the other end of the pushrod.
And gives the impression that it's an early version of the larger rubber sprocket seal.
My gearbox sprocket isn't as bad, but is worn, and has 19 teeth, but should be 20, so I've got a replacement on the way.
I'm gonna leave the bushes, but about to replace both bearings.
The replacement large one came with rubber seals ? Any thoughts on leaving or removing those ?
My gear selecter has very worn teeth, and I just got a NOS one arrive.
Btw there is mention In the original road tests that when new, the B's were prone to a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd, but no mention as to the cause.
Thanks for posting these vids, apart from the inspiration, every picture is worth a thousand words, when forgetting how things go back together.
Good luck with it.
Regards S.
@@StevenLawrence-f3t Hi Steven... Yup the felt washer surprised me... First time i ever opened up one of these... I have ordered a few parts... I'll post another video. PES who i bought the 2 ball race's from mention the seals on the bearings being beneficial .
I haven't read any period road tests funny enough... I'll have a look.
I'm only recording for a bit of fun but thanks 🙏
I bent the shim, sprocket washer , removing the bearing, so the replacement arrived today, I'm going to file the sharp wear lip from bigger one on the inner side of the bearing.
The ball bearing on the lever arm had a big flatspot. I got an NOS one but the ball is siezed and the thread a tad rusty.
I tried electrolysis to clean up my many rusty bits. A pain and not very effective. I've found, soaking stuff in citric acid solution, for a couple of days, way better and easier. Comes up like new
Regs S.