Thank you for making this review Paul. I rebuilt my Albion gearbox about 4 years ago. I watched your video to refamiliarize myself with the internal workings. It is amazing how much I had forgotten!!!
@@paulhenshaw4514 May I make a request for a video just like this one on how to replace and adjust the twin leading brake shoes and the single rear on a Royal Enfield Bullet? I don't know if you take requests but one of your informative videos on RE Brakes would sure help me get this job done correctly. I would really like a bit more stopping power. Keep up the great work!! 😄
Thanks, Just bought a 1992 Enfield 500 with gear select problems, hopefully, after following your demonstration, I will manage to sort it, will keep you posted.
Thanks Paul, absolutely invaluable. Just got a non-runner 1961 bullet 350. Managed to get the blighter going eventually. Had a shakedown flight yesterday (not literally) and gears were an absolute sod. This helps a lot in understanding what is going on. Thank again Paul.
Really useful, my 350 seems to have lost the spring that centres the gear lever, atm I have to lift the pedal back before I can press down to the next gear - now I've watched this I won't be going in 100% clueless!!
I actually watched the whole thing! I never used the clutch on my AJS stormer cos i couldnt be arsed to fix it just stamped through the gears which worked fine if you throttled off a bit. The clutch cable went into the chaincase so i put a spring with a washer and nut on the inside so it would pass race scrutineers, great strong gearbox! Thanks Paul. Looking forward to brighter times
Many thanks Paul, just got back into bikes aged 60 and bought a 1991 500 Bullet with a very "notchy" gearbox, will be having a play with it tommorrow. Very helpful video! Subscribed!
One thing I'd like to add; When dismantling this gearbox, you do not need to disturb the adjustable backplate. Leave the pillar bolts which secure the backplate in position. The screws retaining the inner cover can be accessed with the backplate in place. This way, if you had a good gear selection prior to dismantling, it should be good after. Might I request you make a vid of your method of marking the rotor & stator when strobe timing? I have to do my Mk1A when the weather warms up again. Cheers.
Thanks for the video! I just bought a 1980 Bullet and it needs some shifting help. Also the neutral lever is really loose on the shaft. I’ll have to look into that as well. Thanks again for the explanation!
Paul, perfect! This is exactly what I was looking for. As I can shift up through the gears ok but cannot down shift, and as the neutral finder usually takes me to 2nd, it all points to the back limiter plate being out of adjustment. As there’s still snow on the ground here, and the side car is still attached, I’ll wait to crack the case and do the work. Again, thank you!
I found a box quite complicated, with many locking parts, movement mechanism and transfer of movements, as if it were similar to the mechanisms of repetitive weapons Springs which must have their tensions regulated during tempering to make precise movements between their limiters of course. It was great to have this special and complete classes, to see how difficult it is to leave this mechanism, once worn out or even badly treated in normal operating conditions. If I needed to repair a box in bad condition, I would undoubtedly send it there. Even if I had to ride a bike for a few months. Grateful for the clarifying video.
Thanks Paul. I think I’ve said before how much I enjoy the rides around the Welsh countryside, but the, in shop, how to, videos are very informative. After this I think I could tackle one of these gearboxes. I was surprised to see that they use sliding gear engaging instead of dogs in these.
Hi Phil, there is a bit of a mix, with some gears engaging face to face, while other ratios are obtained by internal dogs in the sliding gears engaging on corresponding pegs on the layshaft.
Right. Thanks for putting more light on that. I suppose I’ll have to have one open before I fully get it, a possibility now, since I’ve found an old Bullet that hasn’t run in years about 10 miles out of town here. The tricky part will be convincing the fellow to part with it.
The manual recommends filing the foot control stop plate if the gears aren’t selected correctly,I’ve just bought a new plate and plan to experiment,I can get it to shift perfectly one way or the other ,not both,I’ll examine the new plate v old and see if there’s any difference, good explanation 👍🏻
Thanks paul i have a problen with 3rd gear some times it just goes past 3rd .i will turn the back plate and see what happens .thanks for all your vid,s you make things look so easy and interesting .stay safe gordon.
Brilliant video Paul. Just what I was looking for. The kick-start Shaft broke on my 2000 500 classic, bump started it and rode it home although getting gears was fun the way the gear Shaft lost support from the broken kick start Shaft. Replaced thee offending parts but now having difficulty selecting gears and I think you have answered my question...
Paul thank you. I have little trouble with my 63 Interceptor. It shift N -> 1; 3 -> 4 and vice versa smoothly. 2->3 is a challenge, and finding neutral from this position via the gear lever is iffy; using the neutral finder with a foot (clockwise pressing down) doesn't work; lifting the neutral finder with a hand finds neutral. I've had the bike stall a few times and it's bit of a chore. Any idea what could be the issue?
So are these dry clutch gear boxes? I’m seriously wanting to build a single cylinder diesel bike with a divorced gear box. The Royal enfield 4 speeds are really affordable
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks Paul. I've tried looking on RUclips and mostly Indian channels come up for the Bullet and I can't hardly understand them :) Love your channel. I'm taking the bike down completely for a repaint so I'll go through the gearbox when it's out.
Nice info, thanks Paul. My 57 bullet 350 shifts perfect, but it is not oil tight, the neutral finder pedal, shifts the gearbox into 1 gear, and the eccentric pedal stop is adjustet as you explain in the video, i can shift from 1N234 with both pedals, with the engine off, no problem, just a little strange, the gearbox is leaking at the sprocket side.
Hi Frank and thanks. A new seal behind your gearbox sprocket will fix the leak and if the neutral finder pedal stop adjustment is 'maxxed out', perhaps a bit of weld on the underside of the pedal, filed to suit, will stop it at neutral.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks Paul, yes it's probably a worn out felt pack, mine has the internal type, as you showed in a previous video, i have a workshop manual on pdf from hitchcocks, so it's straightforward, and your videos make it all easier too. Someone has welded the little notch in the neutral finder pedal, where the gear indicator is, so that was why the NF pedal shifts into 1, easy fix, and no damage to the parts.
Thanks! I got mine working after filing away material from the stopper plate; After new entrails the (old) shifting mechanism did not give enough space for shifting back, and the adjuster plate does not have any influence as seen though the hole of the detend plunger.. strangely enough....
The adjustment of the stop plate will only affect by a whisker, how much, either way the selector mechanism will try to move the gear operator inside the gearbox, relative to the detent plunger. As I explain in the clip, you want the gear lever to be coming to a stop, just as the detent plunger engages with whichever notch is heading for it next and no further, in either direction. Usually, if there is too much movement in one direction and not enough in the other, missed gears will result, possibly when changing up and down. I have also filed stop plates on occasion.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks for reply, and yes, thart was my worry whe i started filing the stop plate; What will happen to the other downshifting gears which were allright? They will have too much 'travel'? I guess the detent plunger compensates it. It is now quite thight. I will slacken it half a turn at a time, checking what the result will be.. The strange thing is, the gearbox in my other enfield (with diesel engine) seems to be much more sensitive to the position of the adjuster plate?
My 500's gearbox work great, until I was in a hurry. Then it would find neutrals in funny places, usually on an up change when a cage was getting up my tail pipe. 🥴 Even had to coast into a Lay by a one point because I had Nothing!? Tried many ideas and adjustments but never was completely happy with it.
The Gear Operator, horseshoe mechanism, has pressed-in bushings betwix itself and the shaft on which it rides ? Albeit, I know virtually nothing about the workings of an Albion type four speed gearbox [B4 viewing this presentation], I DID, in No. Africa, once hear a biker quip that "the Royal Enfield is the only motorcycle in the world with a neutral finder, and the only one that needs one." Aside from the seemingly obvious (non-obtuse) meaning of that statement, I still don't fully know its' total implications...and whether it was said 'tongue-in-cheek' and in jest. What say ye, shipmate ? [Actually, after now having read some of the comments, I stand alerted to the somewhat often problemme of 'finding neutral'...in the 'normal' fashion.]
Hi Amelie, there are no bushings, just a steel spindle screwed through the mechanism and into the casing, which the gear operator pivots on. The neutral finder is actually just a nice design touch, which will assist with a badly set up clutch and / or selector mechanism, but it just gives a redundant hand change quadrant something to do!
Hey Paul. I know this is an old vid, but I'm hoping you can give me some of your expert advice, AGAIN... The Albion gear box in my 350 Bullet jumps out of 1st gear into neutral sometimes under acceleration. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong and what I need to do to fix it?
Unfortunately, if it is actually clicking into first gear all the way and jumping out under load, that sounds like wear on the edges of the engagement dogs on the side of one or more of the gears and replacements will probably be required.
@@paulhenshaw4514 So, another stupid question for you, master... If I remove the L/H threaded nut from the primary-drive side of the mainshaft, could I then remove the gearbox cover and replace the worn gears WITHOUT removing the clutch, primary drive chain, and alternator assembly?
Ok, so I've been scouring your library, and I found that you already answered this stupid question in this video. ruclips.net/video/JeWTwVT0c7w/видео.html I see at 16:20 how you've managed another of your famous, or infamous, brilliant innovations. Yeah, it definitely looks do-able, but I've decided that I might as well change all the seals/gaskets: (engine crank, gearbox main, and clutch adapter plate) while I'm in there. I've gathered all the tools and parts necessary, and I'm gonna get at'er this weekend. I'll try to post some vids as I go along. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the unworthy. 😏
Thank you for making this review Paul. I rebuilt my Albion gearbox about 4 years ago. I watched your video to refamiliarize myself with the internal workings. It is amazing how much I had forgotten!!!
Glad I could help!
@@paulhenshaw4514 May I make a request for a video just like this one on how to replace and adjust the twin leading brake shoes and the single rear on a Royal Enfield Bullet? I don't know if you take requests but one of your informative videos on RE Brakes would sure help me get this job done correctly. I would really like a bit more stopping power. Keep up the great work!! 😄
@@OsoVOX Thanks. It all depends on if / when such work might crop up, but I will bear it in mind.
Thanks, Just bought a 1992 Enfield 500 with gear select problems, hopefully, after following your demonstration, I will manage to sort it, will keep you posted.
Thanks Paul, absolutely invaluable. Just got a non-runner 1961 bullet 350. Managed to get the blighter going eventually. Had a shakedown flight yesterday (not literally) and gears were an absolute sod. This helps a lot in understanding what is going on. Thank again Paul.
At last, I think I understand the nuances of the Albion gearbox! Well done, Paul!
Brilliant, thanks Paul, very helpful. A picture paints a thousand words.
Thanks, John!
Cheers mate just sorted my enfield bullet gearbox thanks to your video
Really useful, my 350 seems to have lost the spring that centres the gear lever, atm I have to lift the pedal back before I can press down to the next gear - now I've watched this I won't be going in 100% clueless!!
Glad my video helped you feel up for taking a look!
I actually watched the whole thing! I never used the clutch on my AJS stormer cos i couldnt be arsed to fix it just stamped through the gears which worked fine if you throttled off a bit. The clutch cable went into the chaincase so i put a spring with a washer and nut on the inside so it would pass race scrutineers, great strong gearbox! Thanks Paul. Looking forward to brighter times
Thanks for showing us how it actually works. Keep up with these videos. I love them!
Thanks, will do!
Many thanks Paul, just got back into bikes aged 60 and bought a 1991 500 Bullet with a very "notchy" gearbox, will be having a play with it tommorrow. Very helpful video! Subscribed!
Thanks Hugo, hope my video helps!
One thing I'd like to add; When dismantling this gearbox, you do not need to disturb the adjustable backplate. Leave the pillar bolts which secure the backplate in position. The screws retaining the inner cover can be accessed with the backplate in place. This way, if you had a good gear selection prior to dismantling, it should be good after.
Might I request you make a vid of your method of marking the rotor & stator when strobe timing? I have to do my Mk1A when the weather warms up again. Cheers.
Thanks for the video! I just bought a 1980 Bullet and it needs some shifting help. Also the neutral lever is really loose on the shaft. I’ll have to look into that as well. Thanks again for the explanation!
Paul, perfect!
This is exactly what I was looking for. As I can shift up through the gears ok but cannot down shift, and as the neutral finder usually takes me to 2nd, it all points to the back limiter plate being out of adjustment. As there’s still snow on the ground here, and the side car is still attached, I’ll wait to crack the case and do the work.
Again, thank you!
Glad to help!
I found a box quite complicated, with many locking parts, movement mechanism and transfer of movements, as if it were similar to the mechanisms of repetitive weapons Springs which must have their tensions regulated during tempering to make precise movements between their limiters of course. It was great to have this special and complete classes, to see how difficult it is to leave this mechanism, once worn out or even badly treated in normal operating conditions. If I needed to repair a box in bad condition, I would undoubtedly send it there. Even if I had to ride a bike for a few months. Grateful for the clarifying video.
Thanks, Glaico!
Thanks Paul. I think I’ve said before how much I enjoy the rides around the Welsh countryside, but the, in shop, how to, videos are very informative. After this I think I could tackle one of these gearboxes. I was surprised to see that they use sliding gear engaging instead of dogs in these.
Hi Phil, there is a bit of a mix, with some gears engaging face to face, while other ratios are obtained by internal dogs in the sliding gears engaging on corresponding pegs on the layshaft.
Right. Thanks for putting more light on that. I suppose I’ll have to have one open before I fully get it, a possibility now, since I’ve found an old Bullet that hasn’t run in years about 10 miles out of town here. The tricky part will be convincing the fellow to part with it.
good,i need this,mine still pops out of first.Im sure you have addressed many problems.great expanation.
The manual recommends filing the foot control stop plate if the gears aren’t selected correctly,I’ve just bought a new plate and plan to experiment,I can get it to shift perfectly one way or the other ,not both,I’ll examine the new plate v old and see if there’s any difference, good explanation 👍🏻
Thanks paul i have a problen with 3rd gear some times it just goes past 3rd .i will turn the back plate and see what happens .thanks for all your vid,s you make things look so easy and interesting .stay safe gordon.
Thanks, Gordon, hope you get it sorted!
Brilliant video Paul. Just what I was looking for. The kick-start Shaft broke on my 2000 500 classic, bump started it and rode it home although getting gears was fun the way the gear Shaft lost support from the broken kick start Shaft. Replaced thee offending parts but now having difficulty selecting gears and I think you have answered my question...
Glad it helped!
Love your workings on the RE Bullet, wish I could get the 3d models for the parts from somewhere for 1983's Indian Model!
You are amazing Paul
Wow - thank you!
Excellent! Thanks Paul.
Thanks, Herman!
excellent video
Thanks, Dean!
Paul thank you. I have little trouble with my 63 Interceptor. It shift N -> 1; 3 -> 4 and vice versa smoothly. 2->3 is a challenge, and finding neutral from this position via the gear lever is iffy; using the neutral finder with a foot (clockwise pressing down) doesn't work; lifting the neutral finder with a hand finds neutral.
I've had the bike stall a few times and it's bit of a chore. Any idea what could be the issue?
I think your clutch might be dragging and needs looking at.
Could you please make video on plunger adjustment. Thanks
I have the later 5-speed, but still found this interesting. Gear boxes have always been "that dark place I dare not enter."
Thanks, Bill!
So are these dry clutch gear boxes? I’m seriously wanting to build a single cylinder diesel bike with a divorced gear box. The Royal enfield 4 speeds are really affordable
The clutches are usually wet, due to being chain driven, but they can work dry if the chain is lubed with grease or spray on lube.
How much play can be in the linkages and in the neutral lever linkage? I’ve tried adjusting but still full of neutrals
The short answer is as little as possible.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Do you have a video with the long answer? :)
Only this one, I think, sorry.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks Paul. I've tried looking on RUclips and mostly Indian channels come up for the Bullet and I can't hardly understand them :) Love your channel. I'm taking the bike down completely for a repaint so I'll go through the gearbox when it's out.
Hello paul there is too much play in the gear shifter pedal can you tell me why?
Sir would you tell me reason for humming in gearbox for 3rd and 2nd gear ?
Hi, probably wear in the bearings and bushings, or something is too tight when the gearbox cover screws are done up tight.
I am facing this issue despite changing orginal gears, if you can recommend then that would be a great help for me.
Nice info, thanks Paul. My 57 bullet 350 shifts perfect, but it is not oil tight, the neutral finder pedal, shifts the gearbox into 1 gear, and the eccentric pedal stop is adjustet as you explain in the video, i can shift from 1N234 with both pedals, with the engine off, no problem, just a little strange, the gearbox is leaking at the sprocket side.
Hi Frank and thanks. A new seal behind your gearbox sprocket will fix the leak and if the neutral finder pedal stop adjustment is 'maxxed out', perhaps a bit of weld on the underside of the pedal, filed to suit, will stop it at neutral.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks Paul, yes it's probably a worn out felt pack, mine has the internal type, as you showed in a previous video, i have a workshop manual on pdf from hitchcocks, so it's straightforward, and your videos make it all easier too. Someone has welded the little notch in the neutral finder pedal, where the gear indicator is, so that was why the NF pedal shifts into 1, easy fix, and no damage to the parts.
Thanks! I got mine working after filing away material from the stopper plate; After new entrails the (old) shifting mechanism did not give enough space for shifting back, and the adjuster plate does not have any influence as seen though the hole of the detend plunger.. strangely enough....
The adjustment of the stop plate will only affect by a whisker, how much, either way the selector mechanism will try to move the gear operator inside the gearbox, relative to the detent plunger. As I explain in the clip, you want the gear lever to be coming to a stop, just as the detent plunger engages with whichever notch is heading for it next and no further, in either direction. Usually, if there is too much movement in one direction and not enough in the other, missed gears will result, possibly when changing up and down. I have also filed stop plates on occasion.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks for reply, and yes, thart was my worry whe i started filing the stop plate; What will happen to the other downshifting gears which were allright? They will have too much 'travel'?
I guess the detent plunger compensates it. It is now quite thight. I will slacken it half a turn at a time, checking what the result will be..
The strange thing is, the gearbox in my other enfield (with diesel engine) seems to be much more sensitive to the position of the adjuster plate?
On a 1999 royal bullet 500cc can you use a newer 5 speed transmission?
Yes, with the right side gear lever conversion.
@@paulhenshaw4514 then that's the long term plan..enjoy 55 miles per hr but would be nice to be able to do 65 if need be or save even more on fuel.
Thanks. A thorough tutorial
You're welcome!
Thank you !!!!
They say the difference between genius and madness is slight. I'm not sure which side of the line I'd put the designer of that mechanism.
Some say similar about me!
Looks a pretty substantial gear cluster
My 500's gearbox work great, until I was in a hurry.
Then it would find neutrals in funny places, usually on an up change when a cage was getting up my tail pipe. 🥴 Even had to coast into a Lay by a one point because I had Nothing!? Tried many ideas and adjustments but never was completely happy with it.
Is it one of the modern ones?
@@stephencroft6481 1992 "J" Reg.
👍
👍🏴
The Gear Operator, horseshoe mechanism, has pressed-in bushings betwix itself and the shaft on which it rides ?
Albeit, I know virtually nothing about the workings of an Albion type four speed gearbox [B4 viewing this presentation], I DID, in No. Africa, once hear a biker quip that "the Royal Enfield is the only motorcycle in the world with a neutral finder, and the only one that needs one." Aside from the seemingly obvious (non-obtuse) meaning of that statement, I still don't fully know its' total implications...and whether it was said 'tongue-in-cheek' and in jest. What say ye, shipmate ?
[Actually, after now having read some of the comments, I stand alerted to the somewhat often problemme of 'finding neutral'...in the 'normal' fashion.]
Hi Amelie, there are no bushings, just a steel spindle screwed through the mechanism and into the casing, which the gear operator pivots on. The neutral finder is actually just a nice design touch, which will assist with a badly set up clutch and / or selector mechanism, but it just gives a redundant hand change quadrant something to do!
The audio on your videos is terrible !!!
Thanks!
@@paulhenshaw4514 > I wonder if he means terrific? It certainly sounds ok to my old ears! The video is extremely useful, adding to my knowledge. Chris
@@chrisrobinson290 Thanks, Chris. I don't know what he means, but if it is intended to offend, it is a wasted effort!
Hey Paul. I know this is an old vid, but I'm hoping you can give me some of your expert advice, AGAIN... The Albion gear box in my 350 Bullet jumps out of 1st gear into neutral sometimes under acceleration. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong and what I need to do to fix it?
Unfortunately, if it is actually clicking into first gear all the way and jumping out under load, that sounds like wear on the edges of the engagement dogs on the side of one or more of the gears and replacements will probably be required.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Yeah, that's what I figured. Oh well, another good reason to play with my toys/tools. 😁 ruclips.net/video/H22VQzbA20k/видео.html
@@paulhenshaw4514 So, another stupid question for you, master... If I remove the L/H threaded nut from the primary-drive side of the mainshaft, could I then remove the gearbox cover and replace the worn gears WITHOUT removing the clutch, primary drive chain, and alternator assembly?
Ok, so I've been scouring your library, and I found that you already answered this stupid question in this video. ruclips.net/video/JeWTwVT0c7w/видео.html I see at 16:20 how you've managed another of your famous, or infamous, brilliant innovations. Yeah, it definitely looks do-able, but I've decided that I might as well change all the seals/gaskets: (engine crank, gearbox main, and clutch adapter plate) while I'm in there. I've gathered all the tools and parts necessary, and I'm gonna get at'er this weekend. I'll try to post some vids as I go along. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the unworthy. 😏