To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
I don't see why people say to disable the steppers. Surely, this would just make the Z axis loose and prone to moving up/down when you manually move the X axis ?
Great video. Yours is the first I've seen recommending leveling with 9 spots, instead of just the normal 5 spots (4 corners and center) the two concentric overlapping squares really help to get the bed completely level. I didnt download your file, I just moved my print nozzle to those spots, in the order you showed in the video. Bed came out leveled , with a magnetic removable bed line. And the other thing, saying that you want "a lot of friction" between the paper and print head, not a little, also helped my problem of the first layer not wanting to adhere evenly to the bed.. so thanks again!
Thanks so much for this, I've been trying to level my bed for about a week before I found this video, I now how a perfect first layer. Thank you so much
If only it were as easy as all these videos say it is. I’ve been trying to level mine for a week now. One corner is always too close to the bed and all the other corners are way too far away.
Same with me. I have to tighten on handwheel all the way, with another one so loose the handwheel is actually about to fall off. However, this is all irrelevant if you can't get your Z Offset set correctly. It would help if the video showed how this worked in conjunction with manual bed levelling and auto bed levelling. The latter determines a mesh so that it can compensate the Z position appropriately according to it's XY position. So, where exactly does the nozzle have to be for the Z Offset to be valid ?
Great video, Creality should hire you to rewrite thier manuals, Your video actually explained to me the issues I was running into with my new ender 3 max
having took a break for a while and watching a similar video on leveling is probably what took my bed so far out of whack... x plain if you adjust positively on one point you have to adjust negative on the direct diagonally opposite point as these create your X leveling 5 points 4 tips one mid
Thank you so, so much my mom and dad could never figure out o why it would print sometimes and not, now I'm printing a T-rex for my collection of 3 things when my 3d printer worked and I've been havening it for 3 months.
Could you please update the Bed Leveling GCODE - Ender 3 (2020) for Ender 3 Pro ?? It's not working as expected , I can't pause or stop so I can not test with paper .
ever since my moms coworkers friend that works at our local university came to bed level my bed beacause i just could not after many tutorials i finnaly did it and the bed leveling test went better than yours,thanks a lot bro
I wish I had saw this video when I first got my Ender 3, this video was phenominal in explaining everything, a ton of other videos just say just paper and it obviously shows in this video that paper alone didnt level the bed, I do wish however you would have added how to set the z-offset properly as part of the bed leveling process in this video.
Thank you for this tutorial! However, my letters are not very clear, I can barely read it. Do you have any tips to improve the precision of my ender 3 pro prints? Any help is really appreciated! I am using general PLA, 0.4mm nozzle.
Whenever I try executing the g-code, my ender 3 pro does not stop at each point. I have to manually pause the "print" at each point. After that, it doesn't resume once i hit resume. Anybody else have this issue?
Nice video but.... you have to realize that Z axis end switch doesn't stop on the same point. I have small 3cm wheel mounted on Z Axis thread rod to see the moment where auto home stops. I've found that it stops on 2 exact positions. where one position is occuring is more often. The recipe for that is make a reference where the wheel is stopping more often (lower position is better) and do several auto home attempts to reveal if this point is still the same or not. Then notice the points. Do bed leeling on this noticed more occuring point. When print is started just watch the knob wheel in phase before extruder heat-up will do auto home. You have still time to cancel print in case that Z-axis rod will stop on bad point. In mine case the diference betweeen points is 0,6mm / 6 0,1mm steps. Let me know if your Z-axis switch is stopping threaded rod in the same position or not.
I think the GCode you provided is not working properly, im not seeing a continue option and it just goes around the print bed not stopping for me to level it out with the paper.
Quick question: When the bed is hot, where is the heat being generated from, i want to know before i accidentally burn myself trying to turn the gears.
What I do is just disable steppers and manually do everything and looking at the gap between the bed and nozzle to make adjustments, works pretty good and uses no filament, no paper, and only takes a minute
I downloaded and tried the gcode that you use after rough leveling. My printer does not stop between the corners so I can not calibrate. It just walks through the steps and then stops. Does anyone know why is that?
@@quantisedspace7047 thanks! This would mean that I’d need to edit the g code myself to make it work somehow? Or it will not work on my machine at all?
On my new Ender 3 Max there is the issue that even if I get bed leveling to come out with the paper test, the nozzle is still too high for good adhesion. I think something is going on with the z-axis shut off switch that's keeping it from going too low. In the latest Creality software for the Max, you can't set a negative z-axis offset to compensate. So I'm going to just get the CR Touch device, disengage the offset switch (as CR Touch tells you to) and let technology fix this for me.
Thank you help me set up one of my Ender 3 machines. I have a few Ender 3 Pro's and tried to use the bed level file but it just went through the motions without stopping at each point. Do you have one that will work on Ender 3 Pro's with Marlin?
Leveled the bed, preheated it and selected the file for my first Benchy test print. Watched in disbelief as the nozzle chiseled a perfect Benchy shape into the glass. For unknown reason(s) the z axis would not move up and didn't realize what was happening until it was too late. Thought I followed all the instructions. Changed the nozzle, but definitely need a new piece of glass. Will try to level the bed again using your files to level and calibrate. Any ideas why my nozzle dug into the glass? Cheers
quick question, for the G-Code bed leveling it states its only for the Ender 3. what is the main difference between the 3 and 3Pro that it will not work for the Pro.
What can I do when the skirt will stick to the print bed, but when it comes time to printing the squares, the filament WILL NOT STICK to the bed and just for a mess of jumbled pubes near the hot end! I've tried cleaning the bed really thoroughly with alcohol and leveling like the previous steps. Any reccommendations? Maybe try extruding more filament at a time? what setting would I change for that?
when running the gcode it never stops at any of the positions. it runs through all nine but never stops to be able to use paper. anyone else having this issue?
No matter what I print, it seems to come dislodge from the bed at the same sickness. I think my bed is not lowering, and so the printhead starts to bump into the prince of an inch of thickness . Any thoughts/ solutions?
When u. Said press continue to move the bed to a different corner how did u do that exactly??? What software or file. Can I download this and try it for myself
Problem is, I need to re-level my bed every print. Does anyone use light locktite or something to prevent the leveling screws from migrating due to vibrations?
It's impossible to level the beds I have 2 printers v3 and v3 2 the v3 2 seems to have parts mixed and matched I have to adjust my bed for each print everything
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
I'll try this I have and ender 3 and the thin ass aluminum plate they use is garbage.
@@odeball22 IUI
I don't see why people say to disable the steppers. Surely, this would just make the Z axis loose and prone to moving up/down when you manually move the X axis ?
@@quantisedspace7047 because moving it without disabled motors generates electricity that goes back to your electronic module and could damage it
This fixed my awful first layers. THANK YOU!
What kinda stuff do you print?
As some one new to 3d printing i struggled with bed leveling so much but this helped so much I cant thank you enough,Subbed!
Great video. Yours is the first I've seen recommending leveling with 9 spots, instead of just the normal 5 spots (4 corners and center) the two concentric overlapping squares really help to get the bed completely level. I didnt download your file, I just moved my print nozzle to those spots, in the order you showed in the video. Bed came out leveled , with a magnetic removable bed line. And the other thing, saying that you want "a lot of friction" between the paper and print head, not a little, also helped my problem of the first layer not wanting to adhere evenly to the bed.. so thanks again!
Where do we find the gcode file at 0:56
Thanks so much for this, I've been trying to level my bed for about a week before I found this video, I now how a perfect first layer. Thank you so much
This is your first video you’re a freaking natural dude!
Thanks, I enjoy your approach to instruction. Very informal yet detailed. Looking forward to additional assistance from your site.
If only it were as easy as all these videos say it is. I’ve been trying to level mine for a week now. One corner is always too close to the bed and all the other corners are way too far away.
i had been trying for over a month until a couple of minuts ago i finally did it after soo many failed tutorials,the step diagram helps at 1:10
@@manosm.4718you a life saver lol i did not wanna watch the whole thing and that worked great
I’m having the same issue… for months
@@ValVannisame
Same with me. I have to tighten on handwheel all the way, with another one so loose the handwheel is actually about to fall off.
However, this is all irrelevant if you can't get your Z Offset set correctly. It would help if the video showed how this worked in conjunction with manual bed levelling and auto bed levelling. The latter determines a mesh so that it can compensate the Z position appropriately according to it's XY position.
So, where exactly does the nozzle have to be for the Z Offset to be valid ?
I'm currently taking a class to learn how to use a 3d printer, this video helped out a lot, thanks.
Great video, Creality should hire you to rewrite thier manuals, Your video actually explained to me the issues I was running into with my new ender 3 max
I have owned an E3 Pro for the past 30 years and the bed leveling has been driving me utterly insane😂
having took a break for a while and watching a similar video on leveling is probably what took my bed so far out of whack... x plain if you adjust positively on one point you have to adjust negative on the direct diagonally opposite point as these create your X leveling 5 points 4 tips one mid
Thank you so, so much my mom and dad could never figure out o why it would print sometimes and not, now I'm printing a T-rex for my collection of 3 things when my 3d printer worked and I've been havening it for 3 months.
Your cat is adorable
My Prints Are So Good Now THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
This is helping me set up an Ender 3 Pro for the first time.
Why am I watching this I don't even own a 3d printer lol
Hey it not expensive trust me just get a ender3
Me too twin
Same
@@Abyssthekid some people don't have hundreds of dollars laying around lmao
ender 3 is only 100$
Could you please update the Bed Leveling GCODE - Ender 3 (2020) for Ender 3 Pro ?? It's not working as expected , I can't pause or stop so I can not test with paper .
SAME. I really wanted this to work
ever since my moms coworkers friend that works at our local university came to bed level my bed beacause i just could not after many tutorials i finnaly did it and the bed leveling test went better than yours,thanks a lot bro
This video is soooo helpful and informative. Thank you so much for showing the different effects of the unleveled bed
I wish I had saw this video when I first got my Ender 3, this video was phenominal in explaining everything, a ton of other videos just say just paper and it obviously shows in this video that paper alone didnt level the bed, I do wish however you would have added how to set the z-offset properly as part of the bed leveling process in this video.
Thank you so much for this video! I learned a lot and found it very informative and easy to understand. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for this tutorial! However, my letters are not very clear, I can barely read it. Do you have any tips to improve the precision of my ender 3 pro prints? Any help is really appreciated! I am using general PLA, 0.4mm nozzle.
Whenever I try executing the g-code, my ender 3 pro does not stop at each point. I have to manually pause the "print" at each point. After that, it doesn't resume once i hit resume. Anybody else have this issue?
Thanks bro i used the two files and got my ender 3 pro leveled to print good now.
great vid. thx for sharing... But shouldn't we configure the Z offset as well? you didn't talk about that
i just have setup at the start that goes for a few minutes before starting to level it ( it works great )
Genuinely super helpful! Thank you!
God leveling the build plate is like using an etcha sketch for the first time.
Trying to remember what way goes up and down.
Thank you, this almost perfectly leveled my bed.
Nice video but.... you have to realize that Z axis end switch doesn't stop on the same point.
I have small 3cm wheel mounted on Z Axis thread rod to see the moment where auto home stops. I've found that it stops on 2 exact positions. where one position is occuring is more often.
The recipe for that is make a reference where the wheel is stopping more often (lower position is better) and do several auto home attempts to reveal if this point is still the same or not. Then notice the points. Do bed leeling on this noticed more occuring point.
When print is started just watch the knob wheel in phase before extruder heat-up will do auto home. You have still time to cancel print in case that Z-axis rod will stop on bad point.
In mine case the diference betweeen points is 0,6mm / 6 0,1mm steps.
Let me know if your Z-axis switch is stopping threaded rod in the same position or not.
I appreciate it. Just got my first printer and have a lot to learn.
Just what we needed and done well.
Great Video and you helped a ton to get mine level
I enjoyed the video and the cat made it better.
Thank you for the examples. Very helpful.
hi there, may i ask your gcode for the Bed Level - Ender3? the one that you can automatically use the screen to move the nozzle?
I think the GCode you provided is not working properly, im not seeing a continue option and it just goes around the print bed not stopping for me to level it out with the paper.
I think they paused it every time the printer was at a corner
It should work, however it might depend on firmware / printer you are using
yooo thank you so much!
man said "i will help you experience true level"
me thinking of a certain rick & morty clip... "nah, i'm good"
Quick question: When the bed is hot, where is the heat being generated from, i want to know before i accidentally burn myself trying to turn the gears.
What I do is just disable steppers and manually do everything and looking at the gap between the bed and nozzle to make adjustments, works pretty good and uses no filament, no paper, and only takes a minute
How do you stop the nozzle moving up and down, with the steppers disabled ?
Liked and subscribed only because of the kitty. Lol
Kidding. Great job, Bro!
I downloaded and tried the gcode that you use after rough leveling. My printer does not stop between the corners so I can not calibrate. It just walks through the steps and then stops. Does anyone know why is that?
Yes, it's because certain variants of Marlin firmware have disabled the G Code command corresponding to the 'pause' function.
@@quantisedspace7047 thanks! This would mean that I’d need to edit the g code myself to make it work somehow? Or it will not work on my machine at all?
@@ermatedid you ever figure it out? I’m having the same issue
@@true_catholic unfortunately not yet, I don’t have access to the printer I had back then…
may i ask where can i get the gcode for bed leveling? i have some bed leveling problems on my ender3s1
on my website 3dprinteracademy.com
Your a life saver bro
I would like there to be a center knob too as sometimes my corners are good but the center seems to be tighter to the hotend. 😔
On my new Ender 3 Max there is the issue that even if I get bed leveling to come out with the paper test, the nozzle is still too high for good adhesion. I think something is going on with the z-axis shut off switch that's keeping it from going too low. In the latest Creality software for the Max, you can't set a negative z-axis offset to compensate. So I'm going to just get the CR Touch device, disengage the offset switch (as CR Touch tells you to) and let technology fix this for me.
what bed temp and printing temp do you use??? also what about infil what is a normal amount
I liked the video just cuz of the cat toy hahaha. Nice tutorial btw. Thank you!
Definitely helped
I can only get the stl file for squares never got the GCODE for the paper setup
also use 250 for nozzle temp ( it reduces stringing )
Crack! Muchas gracias! ni mas, ni menos, justo y preciso.
Awesome video the gcode is not showing for leveling on your site
Thank you help me set up one of my Ender 3 machines. I have a few Ender 3 Pro's and tried to use the bed level file but it just went through the motions without stopping at each point. Do you have one that will work on Ender 3 Pro's with Marlin?
Leveled the bed, preheated it and selected the file for my first Benchy test print. Watched in disbelief as the nozzle chiseled a perfect Benchy shape into the glass. For unknown reason(s) the z axis would not move up and didn't realize what was happening until it was too late. Thought I followed all the instructions. Changed the nozzle, but definitely need a new piece of glass. Will try to level the bed again using your files to level and calibrate. Any ideas why my nozzle dug into the glass? Cheers
can you please make a video about active bedleveling or just bring the paper method back on youre website
0:00 a 3d printer’s friend was born
quick question, for the G-Code bed leveling it states its only for the Ender 3. what is the main difference between the 3 and 3Pro that it will not work for the Pro.
That bed has seen some "learning" haha
What can I do when the skirt will stick to the print bed, but when it comes time to printing the squares, the filament WILL NOT STICK to the bed and just for a mess of jumbled pubes near the hot end! I've tried cleaning the bed really thoroughly with alcohol and leveling like the previous steps. Any reccommendations? Maybe try extruding more filament at a time? what setting would I change for that?
Helped really well, thanks!!
This really helped
How do you fix the middle?
thanks for the help
The link to the g-code file is missing.
when running the gcode it never stops at any of the positions. it runs through all nine but never stops to be able to use paper. anyone else having this issue?
THANKS A TON!!
Thank you very much for this, helped me perfectly.
Awesome! Thank you!
woah no way awesome thank you same here too me!
@ woah really?? Awesome for me too you thanks me same you too!!!
@@kingcherryblossom2059 YEAA!!! YOU GO GIRL :3
@ true :3
Where are the links
For example left bottom corner prints half of the square but then starts skipping the rest. In this situation bed is high or low?. Thanks
Thank You very much. your instructional video is excelent
@3dPrinterAcademy The link for the resources doesn't work.
does the g code (levelling) not calibration for the ender 3 v2
how do i level the middle of the bed?
thankyou soo much for this video could you please share stl for this calibration print
Do i need to do this before every print?
Is there a new direction bed level test
Comments are good for the youtube algorithm :)
Thanks great video
dose this work for other 3d printer like anycubic
No matter what I print, it seems to come dislodge from the bed at the same sickness. I think my bed is not lowering, and so the printhead starts to bump into the prince of an inch of thickness . Any thoughts/ solutions?
does the Gcode work for the ender3 pro or just for the ender 3?
thank you so much!!
When I try to level the bed or even when I click auto home the nosel is still around 5cm above the bed, what should I do?
Does this work if I have a CR touch installed?
Whats the gcode files u talk about?
Thanks for this
When u. Said press continue to move the bed to a different corner how did u do that exactly??? What software or file. Can I download this and try it for myself
If you have an Ender 3 you just have to press in the knob
Problem is, I need to re-level my bed every print.
Does anyone use light locktite or something to prevent the leveling screws from migrating due to vibrations?
Liked and subbed.
Leveling up the Anet A8 is a fricking nightmare lmao
No matter how much I turn the wheels I cant get the nozzle to hit the bed level? Any suggestions?
It's impossible to level the beds I have 2 printers v3 and v3 2 the v3 2 seems to have parts mixed and matched I have to adjust my bed for each print everything
Does this work for the ender 3 pro?
So the file does not stop at each corner so you can test the paper? Instead it put little indents in my mat on the bed.....
True level. All I can think about Rick and Morty lol
finally someone got the joke 😂