Beekeeping Questions and Answers Episode 116, Uncapping options and more!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2024
- Welcome to another episode of backyard beekeeping questions and answers.
Today's topics are listed below in order.
You are invited to visit my main website: www.TheWayToBee.org
See the complete playlist here: • The Way To Bee Podcast
Listen to the series via Podcast: frederickdunn....
TOPICS:
1) Do you use starter strips with your foundationless frames? If not what do you do to keep the bees building straight comb?
2) How do you restrict the number hives/bees if you don't want to expand beyond your ability to care for the bees and space allowed?
3) Japanese Beetles are eating all of my pollinator flowers, how do I get rid of them without harming the bees?
• THE BEST Japanese Beet... My method for beetle control.
4) How do I tell the difference between eggs being laid by a laying worker or a queen that's also just laying drone eggs?
5) When I put a bee escape under my honey super, the super was robbed through the groove in the inner cover.
6) My HOA bylaws are restricting beekeeping. Should I just keep them and not ask, or try to change the rules?
Food for thought, a bee sting case: www.thegardeni...
7) When you super a hive with another honey super, do you place it above or below the brood box?
8) If your goal in beekeeping, honey collection, or is it the thrill of the chess game?
9) I have heard lots of beekeepers talk about how important a lot of ventilation is to keep bees from bearding. What are your thoughts?
10) Honey dew is often claimed to be more nutritious than Manuka honey. Should we be planting trees and plants to produce more honey dew?
For those who want to know more: en.wikipedia.o...)
11) What's the most efficient way to remove wax cappings from honey frames?
12) During a heat wave in our area, there was an accumulated pool of nectar in the drain tube of the flow-frames, how should I get that out without kicking off robbing?
13) I have four and a half built out frames of brood, pollen, nectar and honey. They are not filling out the remaining frames, can I put the super on?
14) One of my hives is in trouble, can I start a new queen from eggs? Or should I try buying in a new laying queen?
BeeWeaver Queens are in stock for shipping, but they are currently expensive: beeweaver.com/...
Tell them Frederick Dunn sent you!
15) We are planning to plant bee friendly plants, if we put them right next to the hives would we be attracting competition?
Do YOU have questions that need answers right now? Or have something cool to share about beekeeping in the friendliest beekeeping fellowship on Facebook? Then this group is for you! :) / 3062274013832702
1) Do you use starter strips with your foundationless frames? If not what do you do to keep the bees building straight comb? 1:51
2) How do you restrict the number hives/bees if you don't want to expand beyond your ability to care for the bees and space allowed? 4:56
3) Japanese Beetles are eating all of my pollinator flowers, how do I get rid of them without harming the bees? 8:47
4) How do I tell the difference between eggs being laid by a laying worker or a queen that's also just laying drone eggs? 15:54
5) When I put a bee escape under my honey super, the super was robbed through the groove in the inner cover. 20:37
6) My HOA bylaws are restricting beekeeping. Should I just keep them and not ask, or try to change the rules? 23:41
7) When you super a hive with another honey super, do you place it above or below the brood box? 29:50
8) If your goal in beekeeping, honey collection, or is it the thrill of the chess game? 32:57
9) I have heard lots of beekeepers talk about how important a lot of ventilation is to keep bees from bearding. What are your thoughts? 37:00
10) Honey dew is often claimed to be more nutritious than Manuka honey. Should we be planting trees and plants to produce more honey dew? 43:08
11) What's the most efficient way to remove wax cappings from honey frames? 49:28
12) During a heat wave in our area, there was an accumulated pool of nectar in the drain tube of the flow-frames, how should I get that out without kicking off robbing? 58:03
13) I have four and a half built out frames of brood, pollen, nectar and honey. They are not filling out the remaining frames, can I put the super on? 1:01:24
14) One of my hives is in trouble, can I start a new queen from eggs? Or should I try buying in a new laying queen? 1:04: 13
15) We are planning to plant bee friendly plants, if we put them right next to the hives would we be attracting competition? 1:08:33
Fred... again...
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME & EFFORT CREATING THESE VIDS.
You are a blessing for sharing your experience & knowledge!
You are very welcome
Thank you, loved the out going segment, still amazes me the quality and the subject matter that you make look so awesome. The mist scene over the pond was particularly calming. Looks like you have some nice size Koi in there.
Thank you so much! :)
Love having these videos to watch each week, thanks again Fred. You are a mine of information 👍
Thank you so much, Simon!
Thank you for covering my heatwave /nectar leak dilemma. I hope it helps someone with the same issue. Great video this week.
What did you end up doing with the nectar?
@@ExplodingBones it's currently in the freezer. We will be going into our summer nectar dearth soon and it will be the first thing I feed the girls when I put the feeders back on.
Thanks for another great Q&A, Fred. Between starting this video this morning and now we caught a swarm right next door from our neighbors compost bin! Bees flying in and out from a little entrance in the lid and when we opened it up? Nothing! Such a bummer. We were just about to call it when the whole swarm showed up, the bees we saw were only scouts. We got the queen in a clip and got them to move into one of our Pro-Nucs instead along with a frame of open brood from one of our hives
Wow... that's one of those charmed moments! Did you mark the queen while you had her contained? Nice that you were there for the arrival :)
Hang the yellow trap just above a shallow metal pan on the ground and it is an automatic bug feeder for the chickens.
Or just stick the lures in a cinder block pinned down with a brick. Or put the lures under a heavy rock. If you got chickens, they will handle it.
Worth watching!
Thank you!
Yes! Thank you for answering the question about no brood.I noticed one hive had very fat bees. I thought they were getting ready to swarm. There is fist size brood in a few places nothing like my other hive that has full frames of brood.
I bought one of those cool uncapping tools this winter, and I tried it the first time this past Saturday, and I absolutely loved it! 😍 It was also really kind on my hands, so that was a big plus! 😀👍
Glad you like them! They definitely speed things along :)
This question is a setup!! Super funny Fred great video thank you!
hey fred thanks for all uou do
Thank you for being here Mark!
Since you asked, varroa testing:
I test all my hives twice a year, once in September and again in March with powdered sugar and the method of 2.
1/2 cup bees
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 minutes rolling
2 minutes rest
2 minutes shaking over a container
(Usually more than 2 mites to treatment)
As I’ve said before, I’m in Australia so any mites is a biosecurity emergency. So, zero mites in my counts.
good stuff on humidity to keep brood moist,from drying out
Just ordered a B Weaver queen ! Fingers crossed. Thanks for the link, they were sold out the last two times I looked. We're very excited! Thanks Fred
My dad used to make a juice from the beetles. Crushed the beetles added water and sprayed it on leaves. The odor of dead beetles acts as a detractant to the beetles.
Interesting!
I'm in Tirol Austria and all year long we have found 1 or 2 mites (usually 1 but mostly 0 ) on our Varroa drop tray, last week I pulled a drone frame and froze it, out of interest I pulled over 200 frozen drones from their cells and didn't find 1 varroa. we did loose 2 hives out of 4 last winter presumably to varroa, thanks for the Q&A's Fred!
Thank you for sharing that great news!
Another great video Fred as always lots of good information, and as a side note your Cornell presentation was also very good. Good luck with the rest of your exams if you haven't completed then yet.
Thank you so much Dan! and thanks for that compliment about the presentation, I still have a lot of work to do there before I'm finished :) I had to drive to a nearby town so the internet wouldn't let me down :) exams continue through this summer.
Wow, not that the live presentation part wasn't stressful enough, throw in there an untrustworthy internet connection I can definitely understand why you went for a more stable source. I completed mine last year and had an absolute blast with Emma Kate and everyone involved. Enjoy the rest of the course and please let us know when you're done so we can give you a big congratulations.
For those looking for a city with really good rules as you talk to your HOA or other municipality, Littleton Colorado has some really great rules that will allow a small backyard apiary to account for selling nucs and swarm control with nucs. Also accounts for lot size. Good luck.
Thank you for the excellent comments about ventilation. My colonies are much healthier now that they only have one entrance.
That's great!
Thank you for sharing your beautiful surroundings. What kind of fish are in the pond (?) area? they looked big. Bless you.
Hi Kimberly, we have KOI, blue-gill, golden shiners, and fat-head minnows :)
Hello Frederick I have two hives . Just got back into Bee’s this year ( may ) . I have done a sugar shake mite check in late may an had ZERO in both hives . Now just done a alcohol wash in both hives and had ZERO again also after the alcohol wash with the same bees I put water in two times . ( really 3 washes this time) 👏👏👏👏👏. Thanks for you videos
I don't know what's going on, but that's great news!!!
For question 11: I use a combination of tools for honey harvest. I like the cold knife, but I put it into a thermos full of hot water between slices, so it just melts through the wax. My cold knife has the unfortunate design of two serrated sides, making it, in my mind, more dangerous. I use the comb for the edges the knife cant reach.
Thanks Fred for a very thorough episode. We have a couple of the ultimate Beesmart insulated covers with their screen board, we're currently testing and comparing different configurations of hives on ventilation, boards, covers, insulation the see if/how they contribute for more efficient hive growth and honey production; bees have evolved over millions of years and have their survival down to a science, but every little push we can give them to thrive could have great benefits for them and us, and that's our goal.
That's fantastic! So, you're testing the inner covers that have the insulation insert in them? And I agree, every little improvement helps.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you Fred. We are in Houston TX, so it is both hot and humid. Watching your video, made realize that our conclusions/solutions could/would be applicable only to our region, we'll see. The biggest hive environmental variant on ventilation is humidity more so than temperature, as per your observation that evaporation of the jelly on cells would be davastating. Target humidity is between 40-65RH% and avoid 75RH% or more as it benefits chalkbrood, mold and mold-type growth, and to provide constant temperatures below 96F on brood area; bees die at temperatures above 113F.
We are working only on 4 configurations at this time, using screened and solid bottoms. Regular/traditional and insulated top covers., insulated and not insulated innercovers and once we reach 100F temperatures we'll indroduce a ventilation module I'm designing and continue modifying. I realize that I would like to add at least a couple of more variations on the configurations, but as you know it starts to become more and more expensive, so we'll alternate to those configurations next on the summer of next year. Our goal is to provide the bees an optimal hive environment to promote brood rearing and honey production.
On screened/solid bottoms, with a small upper entrace with 1" Guardian installed, no insulated tops. So far, we noticed that below 90F there is no advantage to the screened bottom once you pass 90-92F the screen bottom is 2-3F cooler and little to no bearding.on internal temps of 98F while the solid bottom show bearding of a few hundred bees. Both screened bottoms, with/without insulated covers have shown by observation a lot more brood and increase in numbers, and becasue are not bearding the bees continue work as usual. weights to be taken to confirm growth on the next few days.
This episode was particularly informative for me. The only honey dew I had ever known before was of the melon variety. Now I have something new to investigate. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honeydew_(secretion)
Apparently, honey dew is not well digested (by bees) and can cause issues when they spend long time in clusters and weather is preventing them to fly and excreete. Just book knowledge for me though, i'm just starting in beekeeping.
love the lilly pond
Me too!
Heat guns work very well for uncapping. I used an IR gun to check the honey temp after uncapping. 115* is about as hot as the honey (at the surface) would get. It quickly cools. I didn’t notice any burning/off-gassing of the honey or the wax.
Can’t imagine that the honey gets any hotter with a heat gun than it does with a heated planer or electric hot knife.
Hi Ryan! Heat guns run a full gamut of temp capabilities. I've seen the surface of the honey scorched during a demonstration, almost carmelized it. The uncapping knife and plane are set for wax removal specifically for frames, the heat guns can run way up there if the user isn't well aware. You would be one of the people who is aware of the potential harm and moving it along at the right pace is key :) To be clear, I'm not talking about the honey through the entire cell, just the surface directly under the newly melted capping.
@@FrederickDunn
Good points!
Regarding the HOA question, I suppose it would depend on how visible it was. I would want to work on it, because too many people want to strip your rights away and want to deny everyone a future but them. And maybe there's some farms nearby that will let you do it for free. A lot of people want bees and want to help the environment. You could probably around and look at what empty lots are nearby where you live and see if those people would let you put them there.
Thanks for answering my question Fred. My hives are at my winery in the country, so the urban area issue is not a concern. If you do remove the queen, what is the best time of year? I am getting to know some local beeks, so hopefully that will help. Thanks again!
Based on nectar flow cycles, a few weeks prior to a prime nectar flow would be a good time to have them build new queen cells with plenty of stored pollen etc. I find that mid June is the best queen rearing time where I live.
Hello Fred! Great Information once again. We started our mite wash regime this week and also found very low mite counts. 4 tests. Zero,zero,1 and 5. Excellent. NW Indiana here. We treated with apivar last fall and OA in December
I dont do alcohol wash but i have removable bottom board and i never seen more than 5 dead mites after keeping the board for a year.
5 mites for a cup of bees seems a lot to me.
@@mihaiilie8808 it's below the treatment threshold and you need to do an alcohol wash because the bottom board doesn't give a mite count. Only after you treat
That is awesome!
Mihai, 5 mites per 300 bees is less than 2% infestation. I consider that within non-treatment levels. 6 or above may get my treatment attention.
It's the UK v. US Pronunciation Game... 😉
OK... Here we go.
We have :
"Tomatoe" 🍅
UK : Toe-Mar-to
US : Ta-Mae-to
Honey 🍯 (Extraction) Spinner uses the force of :
UK : Cen-Tri-Fue-Gal energy...
US : Cen-Triff-i-Gel energy...
Just love... "That Accent." 😂
Where is the Language Line set? re the Atlantic Sea !?!
Bee Equipment... Is Standard, the Pronunciation is a bit more Sticky... No it's not because of all that Honey, on the Worktop (Countertop) the Tap (Faucet) but we say 'the same thing' differently !?!
So much to learn, and translate when watching a Bee Video on RUclips (!) 🤭
Happy Beekeeping 2021.
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Port Lavaca, TX. July 11. Sugar shake. ~200 bees. 7 mites. OA treatment planned soon.
Does undersupering work better for getting them to build and store food, than just letting them build the empty box on the top?
I do both and it seems pretty even.
@@FrederickDunn Very cool. Thank you.
I kind of like to do modified checkerboarding ... so far, but I hadn't tried doing 'undersupering'. This made me curious to compare them.
Your japanese beetle trap made me wonder if it's possible to use it for a Small Hive Beetle trap here in the South. I'm sure honey and pollen could easily be put in the jar in the bottom of the trap.
Couldn't hurt to experiment...
Very nice Fred! You should consider doing end credits scenes of what’s coming, just like in those marvel films. Maybe of your Layens hive.
Interesting suggestion... thanks, Timothy :)
@@FrederickDunn I know the musical arrangements will be awesome!
good luck, greetings from turkey beekeepers
Thank you! Wishing you all the best right back!
Should I be doing a mite count every time I open up my hive (2wks) (10days) or like 3 time a year?
For me that's seasonal, particularly during periods of brood buildup. Counts in spring during the nectar flow and again in late summer so there is time for possible treatment before honey supers and the flow really hits. General inspections ever 14 to 21 days when the weather is good.
Fred, I see that you test various hive body designs in your bee yard. Have you ever considered using the Slovenian AZ hive design? I am considering getting back into bees in Vermont and see that these hives can be installed into bee sheds that may help keep the bears and other predators away. I also like the aspect of inspecting from the "back door" instead top down. Can you do an episode on AZ Bee hives? Thanks, Tom.
My family comes from Craftsbury :) I don't use them here and it's because of the need to provide separation of the hives in order to reduce drift and reduce the spread of potential disease. I have a friend with an old dairy barn, and they are using the hay loft as their apiary now, but it's a huge building and they can spread the hives all down the east and western wall with plenty of separation while prividing the all-weather inspection convenience that this kind of setup provides. It's an old time tested setup, but I'm not going that route here. If you build a shed, I do suggest using hopper-style windows high on the walls, that open out so any free flying bees inside can make their way back outside. My bee-building has that in the works, but it's only for a few hives.
Yesterday I was doing an inspection on my hives. While doing the second hive the bees became very agitated. I got these bees end of April and had no issues up till now. I have 4 chickens within 15 ft. of the hives. When I was done with my inspection I the bees were attacking the chickens. They were relentless. I sprayed the chickens with the hose and that didn't help. I had to move the chickens to the shed a 100 ft. away with bees following me. I pulled over 100 stingers out of them. Since you have chickens too I was wondering if you have any insight on this and Do you think they will attack they again when I move them back.
I think it's time to thoroughly evaluate that colony of bees. Make sure they have resources and a laying queen. Are your chickens penned in? If they are, definitely move them well away from the apiary. Mine free range, so if the bees were at all testy, they would just walk or run right out of there. Please keep us posted.
@@FrederickDunn They have plenty of resources. I didn't find the queen but have lots of larva and barely any eggs. Lots of empty cells. The chickens were in a pen area only 15' from the hives. I'll be moving it this weekend. All chickens are alive but all have one 1 eye blind and 1 has both.
Not sure what I should do with the chickens since this is my first time with them. Whether to try and keep them or cull them.
I appreciate your timely response.
What do you think of the Simple Harmony Farm roller uncapper? Jus adding to the list for completeness.
I don't cover equipment like that as I'm targeting backyard beekeeping and it's an expensive piece of gear that is really for higher volume extraction. But you're right, it should have been mentioned since it doesn't cause wax bits and pieces. I don't know many keepers who use that method.
You're from Kirkwood MO!? How cool, I'm right down the road. Great content!
Yes I am! KHS... Go Pioneers! :) I was a Marching Band nerd.. largest marching band in Missouri :)
With the Flow system, bees cleanup up the frames after extraction. I see a lot of sources state that if you put a 'wet' super back onto the hive there is a chance to encourage robbing. This doesn't seem to be discussed in regards to the Flow frames after extraction. What makes these two instances different and what is the actual concern regarding putting wet frames back onto a hive after extraction. Thanks and love the channel.
I would just make sure the entrance reducer is on and that the resident bees can handle their entrance size. I put freshly harvested Flow-Supers back on the same hive for cleanup and have not had that kick off a robbing frenzy. The colonies that produce so much honey are also likely to be the most capable of defending their hive from robbing.
It has been so hot recently so I've slowed down opening the hive. Often the bees are bearding. The growth I observe is outstanding every time they come out. Is this a reasonable way to see hive growth?
I remember seeing bag a bugs Chock full of Japanese beetles. Till they came up with those we were over run with them. And it had the same bait your speaking of. Super good trap!
Love the videos,learning so much!! Have you put bees in your Layins hive yet? Thoughts on Layins hive for a beginner?
I do not have bees in the Layens hive and if I don't do that within the next week, it's not a Layens test year for me here. Just due to the specilization of everything that goes into that hive, here in the U.S. I don't recommend it for beginners at this time.
Yet another great video
Thanks
You're very welcome.
Spotted Lantern Fly is an invasive insect that is causing havoc in vineyards and other commercial crops. It is particularly fond of a tree called the Tree of Heaven which also happens to be an invasive species. We are watching the Spotted Lantern Fly march across Pennsylvania, and we suspect that last year it crossed over into Ohio. If, and probably more likely when, it gets to my vineyard we are going to have the same fight on our hands that the farmers in other areas are having trying to control this pest. All that is just to illustrate why, if you did decide to plant species that encourage the production of honeydew, please make sure that the plants are native and the insects that feed on them are native. Remember that the insects that are creating honeydew are very often insects that kill the plants they are feeding off of.
All good points. And yes, the beekeepers are being used as part determining the spread of the SLF so they can be dealt with. All because someone needed to buy stone from another country... specifically, China. It's a huge challenge and something that can ruin the wine industry in PA among other places.
I had not heard that they were using honey samples to detect the insects. I plan on bringing that up to our department of agriculture, thanks for mentioning it!
Good evening
I only have 1 hive this year ( of 12 ) that has required mite treatment even though it went broodless making a queen. Most of them have had brood breaks splits etc
@Frederick Dunn, Mite Counts: SO IN, just North of Louisville, KY. Overwintered all 5 hives, last treatment of OA early Nov. (5 rounds 5 days apart). Lots of swarming in Apr.-May, at least 1 from each. I had hoped this would translate to low counts, but just did an alcohol wash today w/ 9 mites. I did make splits mid-Apr., and moved 5 new colonies to a new yard. Alcohol wash in new yard yielded 5 mites. This is my 3rd season, so still working things out. Think I may need to implement a spring treatment maybe early-mid March in addition to post-spring honey extraction > fall treatments. Using Apiguard post-extraction; I don't care for Apivar for various reasons and Apiguard has worked well for me. Too hot for Formic around here unless super early spring or super late fall.
Sounds like you're on top of things Zack! Sorry you have varroa levels requiring treatments. I was noping it was a national trend that varroa had packed their bags :) All the best to you!
Your grandkids must love you, "it's health food because there's peanuts in there."
I was just forced to remove 6 hives from my subdivision home by my Association. I have the livestock clause in the by laws but they didn't use it to remove my bees. They used the nuisance clause to remove my bees. The Board can claim almost anything as a nuisance. I could spend $15,000 fighting this action. If I lose this action, the judge could make me pay the legal fees and expense of the Association. The risk is to great to fight.
Wow, that's too bad :(
Hi Fred. My name is Kāya.
I found HIVE BEETLES and larvae this week! I installed our first package the end of May and have been feeding 1:1 from the start. They've been a little slow going, only building out about 4 frames. One half of 1 frame was only capped honey/syrup. I'm in South Texas and we've had SO much rain lately. I also use a screen bottom and inner cover. I saw 1 beetle 2 weeks ago.
Checked yesterday and found larvae on a good brood frame and the frame of "honey". Ugh. I took those 2 frames out and replaced them with empty frames. The contaminated frames I put in the freezer.
I placed 3 beetle traps and 1 Swiffer sheet in the top of the box. I will be adding the crisco CD case trap this weekend.
I guess my questions are 1. What am I SUPPOSED to do if I see beetle larvae already eating and destroying comb?
2. Is it wise to put the frozen frames back in the hive? I would think so, but maybe there's something I don't know.
3. Is there a reason aside from the rain that would cause them to not be building very fast.
4. Should I start feeding pollen patties?
Thank you so much, Fred, and anyone else that may have some resolutions for us!
I'll talk about this more on Friday. For now, yes you can freeze and restore the frames into service. Beetle Buster (guard) entrances are helpful, then beetle jails are a favorite with mineral oil in them in your top box. Once your colony strengthens you'll see fewer beetles. I wouldn't put pollen patties in the hive, but would offer dry pollen sub outside in a pollen feeder. The top performing brand is Ultra-Bee dry sub. That should boost them a tad, particularly since you're already providing 1:1 syrup. More people may have these concerns. Thanks for the question.
Another amazing and helpful video Frederick. Thanks as always.
Question. If I feed my bees and say they take that down and fill a cell with this, will the bees cap over a cell with sugar water? I hope not.
They have been known to do that when it's 2:1, less likely, yet "possible" that they can store and cap any syrup.
The "Pizza Resistance" 55:55. I love it and plan to use it.
:)
Do bees tend to do better in ten frame box’s? I would choose ten frames but I don’t want to have to deal with the extra 14 pounds of honey to lift.
Pretty equal here where I am, the 8 and 10 brood boxes winter equally, so if you want to go that route for easier lifting, I think they should do fine :)
@@FrederickDunn ok thank you, for some reason I just got the impression that bees colonies in ten frame boxes were stronger
We tested three hives today. Alcohol wash of nurse bees. No mites in any of the hives !
Northport, NY
I can't wait for varroa results at the end of the year, this is a promising trend for sure!
interesting info about dearth and fat body bees ,and egg production ,as resources dwindle
Thank you for the reply!! If I may ask tho,is the reason you dont recommend the Layens style for beginners due to lack of available equipment? I had planned to build traps,frames and hive this winter myself.
If it weren't so singular in design, I'd have an easy time of swapping gear, fortifying it with new bees as well as having it fit extractors without modification. If someone wants to install a package, or collects a swarm, then they would be on their way. This spring, the package intended for the layens was DOA and they did not replace the lost bees. We'll be looking to next year the way things are looking around here.
Hi Fred. I’m in nw ohio just did an alcohol wash Friday and was not happy 300 bees and I stopped counting mites at a dozen this hive swarmed on June 18th no sign of a new queen,no brood,no eggs,no larva. Never washed my other two hives one was the swarm and the other was a nuc this spring as was the first hive,both from the same seller. Treated all three hives with apivar.
Hey Tim, with your colony being queenless, this may "concentrate" the mites, as they will continue reproducing in the available brood until there is no new brood, so this might result in an artificially high count (they all run to the open brood that is left and live bees as your adult bees dwindle). Although treatment sounds like it may be needed, what you really need is a new mated queen. I don't know that I would try introducing a new queen with a mite treatment in effect, as this may result in some issues with the pheremones when the new queen is introduced. I would say you have 3 options at this point. 1. Introduce a new mated queen w/ the Apivar treatment and hope all goes well. 2. Pull the Apivar and then a few days later introduce a new queen, a few weeks later test for mites and treat as needed. 3. Take a frame from another colony w/ fresh eggs (not larvae, but fresh unhatched eggs) and let them try to make a new queen (I don't see an issue leaving Apivar in place here until the new queen emerges - 16 days). Hope this helps!
@@zackzehnder220 thank you for your reply at this point since this hive swarmed on the 18th thinking about waiting till the full 30 days to see if a new queen was made and she was not back yet from mating flight then if it’s still queenless combine that swarm back into that hive. My other hive I did not see a queen either but their is a capped queen cell on the bottom of one frame and it looked like it was starting to emerge and there is not much brood to move to the first hive so I’m between a rock and a hard place right now so thinking I have to be patient and wait and see if both hives become queen right if not then my thought is to combine all 3 hives into one for the winter and the split in the spring.
Hi Fred, left field question as we approach spring in Australia we are preparing, we know bees recognise colour and we paint our hives, so is there any research that show that a swarm will favour a swarm trap painted the same colour as the hive box they are exiting? Naturally Selley research height and size of traps but what about colour? Application would be to help recapture your own bees with same colour pattern. It can't hurt? Regards John
33:20 What The :) It glitches and says "One foggy Friday Morning no narration"
LOL
how did you even read that?! odd... it's related to the final sequences at the end of the video...
I have a question or a observation i watched a Bumble Bee land on the entrance and walk right in the Bees never went near it i watch the hive for 30 minutes it never came out any thoughts Fred.
A very common event. I think the guards just fail to recognize it as an intruder... orrrr, once inside the tide turns and they sting it to death and it comes out in pieces over time.
@@FrederickDunn Thats what i was thinking Thanks for the reply.
In somme cases there are cuckoo bumblebees that visit beehives.
The cuckoo bumblebees as the nane sugest,normally visit otther bumblebees species colonyes,lay eggs and then let the otther bees to grow their offsprings.
There are manny species and somme might do this with honney bees.
I remember ive seen films( on youtube ,not scientific) about a bumblebee living alongside bees.
Can someone recommend what a good behaved beehive that I could keep ( or take care ) in south america (75 to 85 Fahrenheit year round)
I split my hive in, the Okanagan BC at 800 meters above sea level, in June from my single hive that survived the winter and added the screen bottom set up and did notice the opening on both sides. The new hive got a 1:1 feed, and added a brood sleeve 2 weeks in. After doing landing board observations I noticed the bees from the original/strong colony weren't coming home with much pollen. I suspect and verified robbing.
How do you stop an adjacent hive 2 meters/6ft ash, away from robbing? (I didn't notice the double opening until I got home in July)
very small entrance should make the small colony capable of defending itself.
What do you think about 12 inch deep frames in brood boxes like I use. Rob.
Where are you finding 12 inch deep frames? I try to use standard equipment as much as possible just for compatibility sake.
Adding, using pollen patties during a pollen dearth? Our bees in east central Minnesota have not brought in pollen for well over a month. We had a hard drought this spring. I've been Ultra Bee patties on the the bees have been taking them hard. Any thoughts Frederick? I'd like to keep good populations with the possibility of even a light late summer, early fall flow. Hive beatles here are not an issue.
I don't like warm weather use of pollen patties, or any patties for that matter as it can turn into a mess in the hive. BUT, if I were in a serious pollen dearth, I'd put out pollen feeders with Ultra-Bee Dry Pollen Sub. For emergency nectar, I'd use sugar syrup. But not patties in hives during summer just as a practical issue and some with small hive beetle issues see problems with them during warm weather in the patties.
Awesome discussion Fred as always.... the Flow Hive 2+ behind you. What wood species is it? Was this one dipped in regular/plain Eco Wood treatment? I noticed the top had a different contrast from the hive... are they different species? I Love how it looks 😍
Red Cedar Flow Hive dipped in plain Eco-Wood. :)
@@FrederickDunn Thank You!
I'm interested in learning more about the viruses that the Varroa mite carries. Do you have any recommendations on literature or websites?
Hi Linda, I think you'll find that most researchers focus on DWV, or deformed wing virus as one of the primary concerns. Here is a study that may lead you deeper into what virus loads the varroa destructor mites are carrying. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6563969/
I wanted one hive I now have three. I don't want four but at this rate of not wanting stuff???
unstoppable progress
What’s with the subliminal message ! One foggy Friday morning…..at 33:20
Here in Europe bees are livestock and queens have to be numbered and clipped to avoiding a pest or feral existence, I know that clipping hurts you , but they throw out al the hundreds of males out of the hive to die
Thanks for sharing.
Hello, Mr. Dunn. Will you please share your technique for changing out rapid round feeders with fresh ones in the feeding shim? I’m feeding my 2 hives 1 to 1 sugar syrup, ( trying to help build up the colonies I started with at the very end of May), and change the rapid round feeders every 4 days but as soon as I lift the “old” rapid round up and out, bees immediately fly up from the super below into the feeder box. Spraying with sugar syrup/Honey B Healthy works so well during hive inspections but hasn’t worked well to encourage the bees to go back down the open hole so I can put another rapid round feeder in place without crushing them. I used the smoker last time and it worked but maybe you’ve developed a better way to do this? I don’t want to smoke the bees every 4 days! I’ve been stung 3 times while doing this and dread the process of changing out rapid rounds.
You can also sanitize them in place if you'd like to, but I like to clean them out. If you want to leave them, then you'll need to add sanitizer (bleach) to the sugar syrup. That's been mentioned at Scientific Beekeeping . com by Randy Oliver. I believe it's 1 tsp per gallon bleach to sugar syrup.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you for replying. I definitely want to keep changing out the rapid rounds with fresh ones with clean socks, ( which works perfectly, no drowned bees!), but is there a fool-proof way to do this without having to try to herd the bees back down the hole in order not to crush any while replacing the rapid rounds?
What kind of fish were in the pound
bluegill, koi, golden shiners, fat-head minnows :)
How do you end up disposing of the Beatles? Burn? Oh asked to soon! 😆
I removed my flow hive because I expect robbing in the honey supra there’s nothing left The flow hive is full of wax should I remove it or just leave it on until next year
That's terrible news! You should remove it and put it in storage for winter, we don't want any brood up in your flow-frames during the winter season.
BeeHive AWESOME
One foggy friday morning no narration.. ? 33:19
Odd I know... it refers to the end of the video. No idea how that blip got in there...
One Foggy Friday Morning?
It's actually at the end of the video.
??? One Foggy Friday ???
Yep...
Hey Mr. Fred I seen a beekeeper that does video that uses a hair dryer his name is Kevin MacMohn bearcreekhoney I believe that is how you spell his last name
It's a common practice. A hair dryer would be safer when scalding the honey would be concerned. :)
When is it reasonable to call the queen breeder and request replacement or refund for poor quantity queens? What should I document?
I had 3 of 4 queen superseded from an order. Two of them seemed inbred as they had shotgun brood and probably laying diploid drones. The other was probably poorly mated as more than half of the brood was drones.
I know so many different things can cause shotgun patterns and the hive was not excellent to start (why I was replacing the queen). Still, with 3 of 4 getting superseded I can’t help be think these were queens that didn’t have enough time to mate and were shipped without demonstrating good laying.
Every queen breeder/seller sets their own policies regarding refunds and replacement. They generally include instructions with the package paperwork. Some will offer replacements if the queen has produced "hot" defensive offspring. Others just gaurantee live delivery. There isn't a single answer to this question. Some queens may be exposed to exessive heat in transit and can have reduced fertility, or arrive as drone layers if completely sterile. I'd contact the seller.
🇱🇨👍🏿♥️
I learned from the Amazon ranking that you are an AMZ top reviewer. I am an Amazon seller. I make women's clothes and children's clothes. I hope to get your reply.